Depending on the heat pump model, some have a sensor in the remote, and you place the remote where it can both see the air handler and where you want it to maintain temp. a "follow me" feature or something like that.
We also have a Mitsubishi system with 2 outside units and 4 inside air handlers. The fact that the temperature sensors are in the air handlers is a major design flaw and the Mysa might just be the workaround we've been looking for. You might think that you can just adjust the temperature setting on the remotes to account for the difference in temperature at the level of the air handler vs. people level, but in reality it depends on how cold (or warm) it is outside and will need to be continually adjusted. As an example, last winter here in the Northeast we had a brutal cold snap that saw the temperature plummet to -17 degrees F. The air handlers that were mounted high on the wall actually began blowing cold air. But the one air handler mounted at floor level performed well. We thought at the time that our system was defective until we researched the issue. Many thanks for reviewing the Mysa device. I watch your channel frequently as we are also long time EV owners.
Thanks for alerting me to this solution. I've had Mitsubishi Mr. Slim installed for 10 years in our super tight, super insulated home. Very happy with the heating/cooling but frustrated by the primitive remote control. Ordered two thermostats after watching your implementation and installed them here on Vancouver Island. I've spent the week tuning them and building schedules and am very happy. I also use the geofencing to lower the thermostat automatically when I leave the home. (Just have to remember to boost the temperature from my smart phone when I heading back so the warmth precedes me. )
In living with a heat pump with 5 interior wall units, we have found that the biggest unit that is on the first floor ends up being the most important for heating. And that means it *should* have been on the bottom of the wall. Heat rises, of course. We have to often run a circulation fan in the very open area, to mix the cooler air down low in the space with the warmer air up at the ceiling. We have the typical (new England?) thing - a heavy curtain haning in the door opening to the stair hallway, to stop/slow the warm air from just all going up to the second floor of the house. You may have buried the lede? Having the thermostat at a location in the room (rather than in the heat pump unit itself) - is YUGE! Edit: does the Mysa need to be in the same room as the heat pump? With the infrared control, I would assume that it does?
It is not very common in the PNW for people to do the heavy-curtains-on-the-stairs thing, but my parents do for the reason you mentioned. I've never seen anyone else do it, though.
I'll have to look at these. If they can function without the Mysa cloud, I might be interested. I refuse to rely on any cloud service if I can avoid it and absolutely refuse when it comes to critical infrastructure like HVAC and my solar.
@@dcgreenhfx Well.... "no subscription for cloud" ... yet. I don't trust any of them to exist in a year or two or to still offer the service for free. Take IFFTT as a prime example. I like to keep things local for privacy, long term reliability, and responsiveness. So the question becomes, can I use the Apple home kit integration in Home Assistant to talk to them without the cloud (The HA Apple integration doesn't need a cloud, but does the Mysa?) though I tend to prefer MQTT.
A few years back I installed an ecobee for the whole house. It has small battery operated sensors you can place anywhere. I think they're upgraded them so that the battery life is better on them. For my mini split I only have 1. I turned my garage into a family room space and installed a DIY Mr. Cool unit. I can control it with the remote but it also has an app and schedular as well as Alexa integration that has paired well with my Alexa units. I also have it setup in my Smart Home hub to give me additional stats and controls through that hub and Alexa.
Thanks for the video! One huge benefit to products like this is you can change mode (heating, cooling, etc) for multiple units from a single app. Mitsubishi, in particular, is quite finicky in that all head units must be on the same mode. We use Sensibo to control ours. It’s not as fancy in that it’s entirely app-based. But it is a wee bit less expensive.
I love the efficiency of the Mitsubishi system, but I hate the way it goes nuts if one room is on cool and another is on heat (or any room is on "Auto"). I understand the physics of why that doesn't work, but the interface to figure out what went wrong is lousy. I had hoped this would mitigate that, but a guest could still flip an individual room with this setup.
I would have guessed that there was a temperature sensor in those original remote controls (which would have improved the situation significantly). Interesting.
When you use the Mysa controlled temperature adjustment, does it set the head unit temperature to achieve the temperature sensed at the Mysa, or does it just turn the head unit on and off ? The beeping from changing temps or turning the head unit on and off would get quite annoying especially when sleeping if this was the case.
Before replacing traditional heating and / or cooling systems with heat pump based systems in existing buildings it is essential to also seal and insulate the building well. Heat pumps are very efficient but cannot provide a sudden large blast of hot or cool air, unless that heat pump system is oversized, which will result in higher energy consumption. If a heat pump HVAC system is installed in a poorly sealed or insulated building the interior temperature may swing too much above or below the thermostat set point. This is because heat pump systems typically can’t provide the quick “big blast” of heat or cold like older non-heat pump systems.
We live in Southern California and for us Natural Gas is still the least expensive source of heat by quite a bit. Still when the time comes to replace our central A/C systems (currently about 10 years old) we will be looking at installing a heat pump system.
Hmmm, isn't that remote for your heatpump where the actual thermometer is located? That is how everyone I have seen works. If your room is too hot or cold, can't you just move it away from the air handler?
Intriguing. I have new Mitsubishi heat pumps and find the controls and temperature sensing disappointing, too. There are a few Raspberry Pi projects for this operation that have caught my eye, but a professionally constructed system is quite appealing. I have read that it's more efficient for a heat pump to hold a room at one temperature rather than to use time of day settings. Do you find this to be true with all your power monitoring stuff? I ask because in this context I want better controls, but maybe "set it and forget it" is okay, too? Even if it's set to the "wrong" temperature? How talkative is it from a networking/privacy perspective? TIA!
We have half a dozen mitsubishi split AC each 5 kW but with the WiFi connector most people are not aware of cause they are usually an extra of about 90€ or 100$ But then you can control every heatpump while on the road , also have schedules for each with different settings and temperatures, fan speed and directions. You get the best from that Mitsubishi cause once installed you also get a quite accurate consumption figure they call "estimate" for legal reasons. We did not trust these guessometers and therefore installed on every unit a SonOff PowR316 powermeter but after over 1 year and about 1000 kWh consumption the mitsubishi Mel Cloud figures are only 2 kWh or 3 kWh away from what SonOff measured and they are higher. So you can rely on the figures Mitsubishi delivers with their mel cloud services and the units are measuring. It is not a guessometer as we had thought. You can save that money or 20€ we had spent for each unit to get installed. They only offer a nice overview in your total consumption if you use that. But if you have the usual Mitsubishi look for the wireless adapter which can be bought as after market part and can be connected after the installation of the devices. We had done that while we installed the devices but there is a guide how to do that even afterwards. Also youtube offers such videos meanwhile. You do not need a raspi for that. Only the wifi adapters and a wifi connection to the router. The adapter also comes with a 1 or 2 m long adapter cable which means you can move that wifi dongle around to find the best connection.
I am not sure if you read all your comments? But I will throw out my experiences in using a server room. I used to use PCs for my web, chat, and my 20TB raid media server. Power used by PCs was hundreds of watts which convert into heat. I ended up switching to ARM high performance SBCs (which are VERY affordable) running Linux which while giving the same performance used less than 5 watts each! Since I run solar with batteries this saves me a LOT of power for other uses, and is less strain on the batteries. Something I would suggest to strongly consider?
Looks like a fairly stable system and might do some of what I want which is to take over or co-operate with the various systems I have. There are bluetooth, wifi, smoke and burglar alarms, GSHP, room thermostats and external cameras DAB smart speakers (Alexa), EV car charging, television recording, house battery control, off peak (and peak avoidance) electricity use. So I'm hoping Mysa will be able to communicate with some kind of central system. ideally before I get too old to understand it.
Definately looks like a system I"ll be giving a shot for my garage gym mini split. The Daikin mini splits are horribly archaic in both options and internet control, as the system actually does what it needs I don't want to replace it. I've tried a unit similar to this in the past and found that sometimes it didn't actually register the command to the mini split head, how did the mysa fair in this regard?
What is the SEER rating for your heat pump? I just installed a 38 SEER Heat Pump unit in my house which produces low monthly electric bills. My unit only requires one thermostat and it works quite well. I have a separate garage and adjoining shop where I also installed another 38 SEER Heat pump. Now it is cool in 100 degree summers and toasty in freezing winters with no appreciable increase in my monthly electric bill. I do have a very low priced naural gas utility but in California we are encouraged to use Natural Gas to produce energy for Electric cars Only. Gas powered anything is viewed as "Anti environmental" except politicians, of course. Our politicians live on baked beans and cows milk I think.
A couple of questions. Idk if Mitsubishi has this type of heat pump. But I do know there are systems out there that will move heat/cool from one room to another WITHOUT using the outside unit. So your server room’s unit would’ve been able to move the heat from there and dump it into the rest of the house. While keeping the server room cool. Did you know about that kind of heat pump? And if you did, was there a reason why you didn’t go that route?
@@transportevolved I totally get the cost. That is odd that it’s 3 times the cost though. But I do know they’re in residential, heck the first place I saw it was in a residential house.
At 6:40 you say the old Mysa controllers were switching "mains level power". Most thermostats (such as the round knob) are only dealing with 24 volts from a small transformer in the heating unit. I'm also surprised that the room units didn't have the option for a locally-connected "knob" for at people-height sensing. ( our Trane heat pump is ducted, so it uses a wall sensor (and one wireless blind sensor about which I have my doubts)
@@transportevolved Interesting! On the one hand, I'm not surprised that a baseboard heater manufacturer would cuts costs by eliminating the low voltage connection, it's still surprising that they're allowed to run full current through something the end users touch. Don't adjust the heat when you've just stepped out of the shower!
Our two Senville units are relatively accurate without this so I don't know if it's worth it for us. Also I think some manufacturers are putting temp sensors in the remotes now so where you put your remote is where the temp is monitored from. I checked Amazon and this got pretty bad reviews, other controllers did better (Cielo Max, for example).
Do you ever feed/move/pump heat from one portion of your home/garage to another portion of your home instead of just to and from the outside. It seams like you could heat your home/garage with the waste energy/heat from your server room.
Not a big fan of sponsored content, but if that helps to keep the lights on at TE, it's fine. 🙂 (I need to revamp my house heating system, but the costs vs the savings look really awful. and since I can't get away from the communal heat network, I'm stuck with whatever efficiency those guys manage to produce at...)
They don't have the program in Pueblo CO yet, and it has been a royal pain trying to find someone to install a heat pump that isn't sold by the company installing it. They all want to upsell me $15,000 Daikons or Mitsubishis while I just want to get a decent one for a third of that off the internet and just pay for installation. I found someone finally, I think, but would've been nice if ES could've helped. Hope it rolls out soon, I'll get all my peeps to start using it. I did use them for solar, and used TE's links. So far so good, even with Black Hills' stupid rules. Why did we ever let natural monopolies become for profit?
Yep, $15k for $2,500 worth of hardware. If they’re a manufacturer recommended HVAC installer, you should get a 12 year compressor warranty, however the after the warranty period the repair tech will push towards a new system (3 techs I talked to about a switching valve failure don’t want to repair). We have a couple of Mitsu heat pumps and 4 air handlers here in SoCal. Loved them when new. And now wondering if the increased pricing is because of their popularity..
Those Mitsubishi units are the same as I have, in largely the same location in the country (West of Portland). The support for external sensors on those units is not good. The external thermostat interface is primitive and costs a lot and the information flow is one way. I want to know what the status of the unit is. I want good error reporting when it isn't working. I want to know what its thermometer is seeing. I want to be able to tell it when it needs to work harder or less hard based on multiple sensors. There is a serial port within the control board over which this can be done, however it is not documented and people have had problems bricking the control board when driving the serial port. This may be because it's open collector and voltage sensitive. I've been doing microelectronics for over 35 years so I'm in a good position to debug this with my own units so that it can easily be integrated with Home Assistant. Of course since the weather is awful right now, I'm not going to mess with them until it improves a bit. Mitsubishi make reliable and efficient mini splits, but the technology of control and reporting is in the stone age.
Ambi Climate by Ambi Labs has had a similar product for many years and I have been happy with the model AC02 I have, although maybe the Mysa is better but a comparison would be nice.
It's a bit disingenuous to title the video Mysa smart mini-split great pump, when it's really just a smart thermostat. The actual work of moving the energy is done by a normal Mitsubishi unit.
I guess a usual heatpump with a wifi connection like all the mitsubishi and will provide more comfort . I prefer the manufacturers remote and the abilities provided by a genuine wifi connector cause then you can control the devices via * remote * smartphone / tablet app * even PC or Laptop via browser * voice like Alexa The key for all of this are power meters like sonoff PowR316 or the version PowR316D which comes with a display. Both measure the energy consumption over time for every single hours and will give you the best overview you can get over the consumption and the awareness of how much energy is needed to achieve which temperature or comfort level. Split AC also need a serious clean of the filters every 6 weeks or so and once a year a clean of the rips of the indoor unit. I am not sure what a third party product should offer more than what Mitsubishi has already to offer for private use as for scaleable business offices at least in europe.
Being Rural and Off the Gas Grid, I've had a Midea Air to Air Heatpump for a while, which wasn't eligible for any UK Grants Bizarrely. Which is probably why the UK has the un-enviable record of having the Lowest Heatpump adoption rate of any country in Europe. It has a Temperature sensor in the Remote. It has Halved my Electricity heating bill, what's not to like....
We’ve had Fujitsu in one house and Mitsubishi in another. In both cases there were problems with the expertise level of the folks doing the installs. The units eventually worked well after sufficient coolant was installed, but all through the night we are beset by random clicks and pops. Personally I don’t mind the noises but I seem to be alone in that. Ergonomics: the cassette controllers are crap. Perhaps they’d be great in ancient Egypt, since the hieroglyphs on the buttons might be understood, but (forgive my parochialism for showing) why can’t the be labeled in the language of the country they’re sold in? Further, there is no central control; which is fine for setting each rooms warmth or coolness to its occupant’s preference, but to change from heating to cooling, the cassette in every room must be visited and reset by its controller to change modes. But enough complaining. Thank you ever so much for reviewing this product!!! I’ll be looking into it as the possible answer to some of our unhappiness with the Mitsubishis, at least.
sounds like this thing requires a connection to some server somewhere out on the internet (WHY?). YMMV but that would be reason for me NOT to buy it. if it can't happen locally, it ain't gonna happen.
I thought you had a multi-storey house so how come you could only find one flaw? 👻 In all seriousness, being busy you may not know that Home Assistant has it's own off-line voice control. Also does your Mysa support OpenTherm, which uses a much better regulation off temperature over time. You might also want to look at channels that discuss heat pumps such as Heat Geeks & Matt Risinher as getting your hear pump to run at the lowest temperature possible and thus the most efficient is complex and it's different for everyone. Given your wisdom & intelligence you obviously have tried to pump the heat from the server room to the garage in winter. Why is this a bad idea or would not work? Condensation? FInally do you have a mechanical heat recovery system in a conditioned space so that you can clean the air & recover heat or refuse heat as needed Mitsubishi sell them
It's so funny that you think your heating and cooling are "carbon-free", simply because you're using electricity. I mean, that may be true, some day well into the future, but the reality is that carbon-based solutions are likely to continue for decades, as we work through this transition. Something reliable will always have to supplement for the inherent intermittency of the various renewable sources, irrespective of the number of well-intentioned folks wearing rose-colored glasses, telling themselves they are saving the planet. I love heat pumps, have two in use at my home, along with a growing solar array. I am constantly looking to reduce the amount of electricity I use. I'm not delusional enough to tell myself this results in me or my family having a carbon-free, or even carbon-neutral (very different things) footprint. That's just rubbish.
I have the same large outdoor condenser that you have. I'm surprised to see your contractor mounted it directly to a base, mine sits on legs that raise it about a foot off the found to keep snow off of it. I checked to see if mysa would work with my units but they won't. Mysa only pairs with the mini air handlers where I have two much larger mitsu air hardners. (Mine actually look like a traditional furnace). Too bad because the mitsubishi thermostats suck and you can't replace them because you lose the 2 way communication that allows for variable speed.
Depending on the heat pump model, some have a sensor in the remote, and you place the remote where it can both see the air handler and where you want it to maintain temp. a "follow me" feature or something like that.
We also have a Mitsubishi system with 2 outside units and 4 inside air handlers. The fact that the temperature sensors are in the air handlers is a major design flaw and the Mysa might just be the workaround we've been looking for. You might think that you can just adjust the temperature setting on the remotes to account for the difference in temperature at the level of the air handler vs. people level, but in reality it depends on how cold (or warm) it is outside and will need to be continually adjusted. As an example, last winter here in the Northeast we had a brutal cold snap that saw the temperature plummet to -17 degrees F. The air handlers that were mounted high on the wall actually began blowing cold air. But the one air handler mounted at floor level performed well. We thought at the time that our system was defective until we researched the issue. Many thanks for reviewing the Mysa device. I watch your channel frequently as we are also long time EV owners.
Thanks for alerting me to this solution. I've had Mitsubishi Mr. Slim installed for 10 years in our super tight, super insulated home. Very happy with the heating/cooling but frustrated by the primitive remote control. Ordered two thermostats after watching your implementation and installed them here on Vancouver Island. I've spent the week tuning them and building schedules and am very happy. I also use the geofencing to lower the thermostat automatically when I leave the home. (Just have to remember to boost the temperature from my smart phone when I heading back so the warmth precedes me. )
Saving energy saves money.
Heat pumps are the future of heating and cooling.
That looks cool! I'll keep this in mind for my AC when it gives up.
Very interesting... Keep Evolving Nikki!!!
In living with a heat pump with 5 interior wall units, we have found that the biggest unit that is on the first floor ends up being the most important for heating. And that means it *should* have been on the bottom of the wall. Heat rises, of course. We have to often run a circulation fan in the very open area, to mix the cooler air down low in the space with the warmer air up at the ceiling.
We have the typical (new England?) thing - a heavy curtain haning in the door opening to the stair hallway, to stop/slow the warm air from just all going up to the second floor of the house.
You may have buried the lede? Having the thermostat at a location in the room (rather than in the heat pump unit itself) - is YUGE!
Edit: does the Mysa need to be in the same room as the heat pump? With the infrared control, I would assume that it does?
Yes on same room.
It is not very common in the PNW for people to do the heavy-curtains-on-the-stairs thing, but my parents do for the reason you mentioned. I've never seen anyone else do it, though.
I like the extra details in your new Energy Sage promo - very helpful.
I'll have to look at these. If they can function without the Mysa cloud, I might be interested. I refuse to rely on any cloud service if I can avoid it and absolutely refuse when it comes to critical infrastructure like HVAC and my solar.
In this case no subscription for cloud but can work without internet.
@@dcgreenhfx Well.... "no subscription for cloud" ... yet. I don't trust any of them to exist in a year or two or to still offer the service for free. Take IFFTT as a prime example.
I like to keep things local for privacy, long term reliability, and responsiveness.
So the question becomes, can I use the Apple home kit integration in Home Assistant to talk to them without the cloud (The HA Apple integration doesn't need a cloud, but does the Mysa?) though I tend to prefer MQTT.
A few years back I installed an ecobee for the whole house. It has small battery operated sensors you can place anywhere. I think they're upgraded them so that the battery life is better on them.
For my mini split I only have 1. I turned my garage into a family room space and installed a DIY Mr. Cool unit. I can control it with the remote but it also has an app and schedular as well as Alexa integration that has paired well with my Alexa units. I also have it setup in my Smart Home hub to give me additional stats and controls through that hub and Alexa.
Thanks for the video! One huge benefit to products like this is you can change mode (heating, cooling, etc) for multiple units from a single app. Mitsubishi, in particular, is quite finicky in that all head units must be on the same mode.
We use Sensibo to control ours. It’s not as fancy in that it’s entirely app-based. But it is a wee bit less expensive.
I also found Sensibo to be useful automation devices. I use one on each of my splits here in Oz.
I love the efficiency of the Mitsubishi system, but I hate the way it goes nuts if one room is on cool and another is on heat (or any room is on "Auto"). I understand the physics of why that doesn't work, but the interface to figure out what went wrong is lousy. I had hoped this would mitigate that, but a guest could still flip an individual room with this setup.
This sounds like exactly what i was looking for.
Thank you for another great video. By the way, propane and compressed natural gas are two different things.
I would have guessed that there was a temperature sensor in those original remote controls (which would have improved the situation significantly). Interesting.
When you use the Mysa controlled temperature adjustment, does it set the head unit temperature to achieve the temperature sensed at the Mysa, or does it just turn the head unit on and off ? The beeping from changing temps or turning the head unit on and off would get quite annoying especially when sleeping if this was the case.
Before replacing traditional heating and / or cooling systems with heat pump based systems in existing buildings it is essential to also seal and insulate the building well. Heat pumps are very efficient but cannot provide a sudden large blast of hot or cool air, unless that heat pump system is oversized, which will result in higher energy consumption. If a heat pump HVAC system is installed in a poorly sealed or insulated building the interior temperature may swing too much above or below the thermostat set point. This is because heat pump systems typically can’t provide the quick “big blast” of heat or cold like older non-heat pump systems.
Wait, I want the dragon based heating. Go back to that!
We live in Southern California and for us Natural Gas is still the least expensive source of heat by quite a bit. Still when the time comes to replace our central A/C systems (currently about 10 years old) we will be looking at installing a heat pump system.
Wow. Very professional review. Well done.
Hmmm, isn't that remote for your heatpump where the actual thermometer is located? That is how everyone I have seen works. If your room is too hot or cold, can't you just move it away from the air handler?
Would you consider using the server room heat to use a air source domestic hot water heater?
Intriguing. I have new Mitsubishi heat pumps and find the controls and temperature sensing disappointing, too. There are a few Raspberry Pi projects for this operation that have caught my eye, but a professionally constructed system is quite appealing.
I have read that it's more efficient for a heat pump to hold a room at one temperature rather than to use time of day settings. Do you find this to be true with all your power monitoring stuff? I ask because in this context I want better controls, but maybe "set it and forget it" is okay, too? Even if it's set to the "wrong" temperature?
How talkative is it from a networking/privacy perspective?
TIA!
We have half a dozen mitsubishi split AC each 5 kW but with the WiFi connector most people are not aware of cause they are usually an extra of about 90€ or 100$
But then you can control every heatpump while on the road , also have schedules for each with different settings and temperatures, fan speed and directions.
You get the best from that Mitsubishi cause once installed you also get a quite accurate consumption figure they call "estimate" for legal reasons. We did not trust these guessometers and therefore installed on every unit a SonOff PowR316 powermeter but after over 1 year and about 1000 kWh consumption the mitsubishi Mel Cloud figures are only 2 kWh or 3 kWh away from what SonOff measured and they are higher. So you can rely on the figures Mitsubishi delivers with their mel cloud services and the units are measuring. It is not a guessometer as we had thought. You can save that money or 20€ we had spent for each unit to get installed.
They only offer a nice overview in your total consumption if you use that.
But if you have the usual Mitsubishi look for the wireless adapter which can be bought as after market part and can be connected after the installation of the devices. We had done that while we installed the devices but there is a guide how to do that even afterwards. Also youtube offers such videos meanwhile.
You do not need a raspi for that. Only the wifi adapters and a wifi connection to the router. The adapter also comes with a 1 or 2 m long adapter cable which means you can move that wifi dongle around to find the best connection.
I am not sure if you read all your comments? But I will throw out my experiences in using a server room. I used to use PCs for my web, chat, and my 20TB raid media server. Power used by PCs was hundreds of watts which convert into heat. I ended up switching to ARM high performance SBCs (which are VERY affordable) running Linux which while giving the same performance used less than 5 watts each! Since I run solar with batteries this saves me a LOT of power for other uses, and is less strain on the batteries. Something I would suggest to strongly consider?
Neat idea, we don't have individual air handlers atm, but just having a thermostat at your desk could be handy, especially with my basement office.
Have you tried using the server heat to heat other parts of the house?
Looks like a fairly stable system and might do some of what I want which is to take over or co-operate with the various systems I have. There are bluetooth, wifi, smoke and burglar alarms, GSHP, room thermostats and external cameras DAB smart speakers (Alexa), EV car charging, television recording, house battery control, off peak (and peak avoidance) electricity use. So I'm hoping Mysa will be able to communicate with some kind of central system. ideally before I get too old to understand it.
Definately looks like a system I"ll be giving a shot for my garage gym mini split. The Daikin mini splits are horribly archaic in both options and internet control, as the system actually does what it needs I don't want to replace it. I've tried a unit similar to this in the past and found that sometimes it didn't actually register the command to the mini split head, how did the mysa fair in this regard?
Do you use your server room excess heat to heat the house in the winter?
Looks like a very cool product. Not usable for my house, but might be very handy for people with in-room heat exchangers.
1:08 personally when I find dragons in my walls I call for Dovahikin.
What is the SEER rating for your heat pump? I just installed a 38 SEER Heat Pump unit in my house which produces low monthly electric bills. My unit only requires one thermostat and it works quite well. I have a separate garage and adjoining shop where I also installed another 38 SEER Heat pump. Now it is cool in 100 degree summers and toasty in freezing winters with no appreciable increase in my monthly electric bill. I do have a very low priced naural gas utility but in California we are encouraged to use Natural Gas to produce energy for Electric cars Only. Gas powered anything is viewed as "Anti environmental" except politicians, of course. Our politicians live on baked beans and cows milk I think.
I use Cielo to control my Mitsubishi heat pump, and Nest for the whole-house Trane heat pump with electric backup. Both are Google/Alexa compatible.
A couple of questions. Idk if Mitsubishi has this type of heat pump. But I do know there are systems out there that will move heat/cool from one room to another WITHOUT using the outside unit. So your server room’s unit would’ve been able to move the heat from there and dump it into the rest of the house. While keeping the server room cool.
Did you know about that kind of heat pump? And if you did, was there a reason why you didn’t go that route?
Yes. cost. It was about 3x as expensive, and not designed for residential installations. sadly, I don’t earn enough money! Nikki
@@transportevolved I totally get the cost. That is odd that it’s 3 times the cost though. But I do know they’re in residential, heck the first place I saw it was in a residential house.
At 6:40 you say the old Mysa controllers were switching "mains level power". Most thermostats (such as the round knob) are only dealing with 24 volts from a small transformer in the heating unit. I'm also surprised that the room units didn't have the option for a locally-connected "knob" for at people-height sensing. ( our Trane heat pump is ducted, so it uses a wall sensor (and one wireless blind sensor about which I have my doubts)
You’d be wrong in this case. It was switching mains power. :) 240V, to be precise! - Nikki
@@transportevolved Interesting! On the one hand, I'm not surprised that a baseboard heater manufacturer would cuts costs by eliminating the low voltage connection, it's still surprising that they're allowed to run full current through something the end users touch. Don't adjust the heat when you've just stepped out of the shower!
The cadet heaters always use line-level mains voltage. You're thinking about the discrete controls that run other machines.
Our two Senville units are relatively accurate without this so I don't know if it's worth it for us. Also I think some manufacturers are putting temp sensors in the remotes now so where you put your remote is where the temp is monitored from. I checked Amazon and this got pretty bad reviews, other controllers did better (Cielo Max, for example).
Do you ever feed/move/pump heat from one portion of your home/garage to another portion of your home instead of just to and from the outside. It seams like you could heat your home/garage with the waste energy/heat from your server room.
We can’t without a much more expensive setup - Nikki
@@transportevolved
Understood. Sorry. Maybe some day. That would be very cool.
TTFN
kW is a unit of power, thousands of joules (energy) per second, the term you wanted for energy is kw-h (kilo-watt-hour).
Great video, thanks!
Not a big fan of sponsored content, but if that helps to keep the lights on at TE, it's fine. 🙂
(I need to revamp my house heating system, but the costs vs the savings look really awful. and since I can't get away from the communal heat network, I'm stuck with whatever efficiency those guys manage to produce at...)
They don't have the program in Pueblo CO yet, and it has been a royal pain trying to find someone to install a heat pump that isn't sold by the company installing it.
They all want to upsell me $15,000 Daikons or Mitsubishis while I just want to get a decent one for a third of that off the internet and just pay for installation. I found someone finally, I think, but would've been nice if ES could've helped.
Hope it rolls out soon, I'll get all my peeps to start using it.
I did use them for solar, and used TE's links. So far so good, even with Black Hills' stupid rules. Why did we ever let natural monopolies become for profit?
Yep, $15k for $2,500 worth of hardware. If they’re a manufacturer recommended HVAC installer, you should get a 12 year compressor warranty, however the after the warranty period the repair tech will push towards a new system (3 techs I talked to about a switching valve failure don’t want to repair). We have a couple of Mitsu heat pumps and 4 air handlers here in SoCal. Loved them when new. And now wondering if the increased pricing is because of their popularity..
Those Mitsubishi units are the same as I have, in largely the same location in the country (West of Portland). The support for external sensors on those units is not good. The external thermostat interface is primitive and costs a lot and the information flow is one way. I want to know what the status of the unit is. I want good error reporting when it isn't working. I want to know what its thermometer is seeing. I want to be able to tell it when it needs to work harder or less hard based on multiple sensors. There is a serial port within the control board over which this can be done, however it is not documented and people have had problems bricking the control board when driving the serial port. This may be because it's open collector and voltage sensitive. I've been doing microelectronics for over 35 years so I'm in a good position to debug this with my own units so that it can easily be integrated with Home Assistant. Of course since the weather is awful right now, I'm not going to mess with them until it improves a bit. Mitsubishi make reliable and efficient mini splits, but the technology of control and reporting is in the stone age.
Sending some love to the dragons in the wall.
Good, because they’re currently very unwell! Nikki.
Ambi Climate by Ambi Labs has had a similar product for many years and I have been happy with the model AC02 I have, although maybe the Mysa is better but a comparison would be nice.
It seems those air handlers are very quite. Good to know.
Thanks
It's a bit disingenuous to title the video Mysa smart mini-split great pump, when it's really just a smart thermostat. The actual work of moving the energy is done by a normal Mitsubishi unit.
I guess a usual heatpump with a wifi connection like all the mitsubishi and will provide more comfort .
I prefer the manufacturers remote and the abilities provided by a genuine wifi connector cause then you can control the devices via
* remote
* smartphone / tablet app
* even PC or Laptop via browser
* voice like Alexa
The key for all of this are power meters like sonoff PowR316 or the version PowR316D which comes with a display. Both measure the energy consumption over time for every single hours and will give you the best overview you can get over the consumption and the awareness of how much energy is needed to achieve which temperature or comfort level.
Split AC also need a serious clean of the filters every 6 weeks or so and once a year a clean of the rips of the indoor unit.
I am not sure what a third party product should offer more than what Mitsubishi has already to offer for private use as for scaleable business offices at least in europe.
Being Rural and Off the Gas Grid, I've had a Midea Air to Air Heatpump for a while, which wasn't eligible for any UK Grants Bizarrely. Which is probably why the UK has the un-enviable record of having the Lowest Heatpump adoption rate of any country in Europe. It has a Temperature sensor in the Remote. It has Halved my Electricity heating bill, what's not to like....
No option for ethernet and poe ??
Interesting :)
Cel phone, thought it was a glass of milk
Ad blockers violate RUclips's Terms of Service
I thought Mysa was pronounced as "Miser" ie saving you money.
We’ve had Fujitsu in one house and Mitsubishi in another. In both cases there were problems with the expertise level of the folks doing the installs. The units eventually worked well after sufficient coolant was installed, but all through the night we are beset by random clicks and pops. Personally I don’t mind the noises but I seem to be alone in that. Ergonomics: the cassette controllers are crap. Perhaps they’d be great in ancient Egypt, since the hieroglyphs on the buttons might be understood, but (forgive my parochialism for showing) why can’t the be labeled in the language of the country they’re sold in? Further, there is no central control; which is fine for setting each rooms warmth or coolness to its occupant’s preference, but to change from heating to cooling, the cassette in every room must be visited and reset by its controller to change modes. But enough complaining. Thank you ever so much for reviewing this product!!! I’ll be looking into it as the possible answer to some of our unhappiness with the Mitsubishis, at least.
sounds like this thing requires a connection to some server somewhere out on the internet (WHY?). YMMV but that would be reason for me NOT to buy it. if it can't happen locally, it ain't gonna happen.
😚 You brave, Nikki. Smart thermostats are notoriously one of the least attractive topic for a car guy.
resistive electric heat is the most expensive heat
I thought you had a multi-storey house so how come you could only find one flaw? 👻
In all seriousness, being busy you may not know that Home Assistant has it's own off-line voice control.
Also does your Mysa support OpenTherm, which uses a much better regulation off temperature over time.
You might also want to look at channels that discuss heat pumps such as Heat Geeks & Matt Risinher as getting your hear pump to run at the lowest temperature possible and thus the most efficient is complex and it's different for everyone.
Given your wisdom & intelligence you obviously have tried to pump the heat from the server room to the garage in winter. Why is this a bad idea or would not work? Condensation?
FInally do you have a mechanical heat recovery system in a conditioned space so that you can clean the air & recover heat or refuse heat as needed
Mitsubishi sell them
Instead of efficient, use “effective”.
Since this smart girl' installed a Mitsubishi I hope they don't also have an Mitsubishi automobile.
you could have shaved 14 minutes off this interesting product review
Cloud service = no go..
No cost for cloud service.
@@dcgreenhfx Cloud = some one else have the key to you home..
Note the colour if it not that colour you have do it wrong
It's so funny that you think your heating and cooling are "carbon-free", simply because you're using electricity. I mean, that may be true, some day well into the future, but the reality is that carbon-based solutions are likely to continue for decades, as we work through this transition. Something reliable will always have to supplement for the inherent intermittency of the various renewable sources, irrespective of the number of well-intentioned folks wearing rose-colored glasses, telling themselves they are saving the planet. I love heat pumps, have two in use at my home, along with a growing solar array. I am constantly looking to reduce the amount of electricity I use. I'm not delusional enough to tell myself this results in me or my family having a carbon-free, or even carbon-neutral (very different things) footprint. That's just rubbish.
Considering we have solar and pay extra for renewable generation… it is all renewable for us.
Nikki is your spouse as text savvy as you?
I have the same large outdoor condenser that you have. I'm surprised to see your contractor mounted it directly to a base, mine sits on legs that raise it about a foot off the found to keep snow off of it.
I checked to see if mysa would work with my units but they won't. Mysa only pairs with the mini air handlers where I have two much larger mitsu air hardners. (Mine actually look like a traditional furnace).
Too bad because the mitsubishi thermostats suck and you can't replace them because you lose the 2 way communication that allows for variable speed.
My outdoor unit looks just like hers. The height is based on the expected snow accumulations. I suspect there’s more snow where you live.