DIY Li-Ion Battery Packs // Sequre SQ-SW1 Spot Welder // Samsung 30T 21700
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Update video - • Revisiting DIY Li-Ion ...
DISCLAIMER - lithium batteries are very dangerous if mistreated, take it slow & do plenty of research before working with them!
The spot welder is the Sequre SQ-SW1 (also sold as the Flipsky FS-SW1) running from a Turnigy Rapid 5500mAh 3S2P 140C hardcase lipo, settings in the video were 40ms with 20% preheat & the nickel strip is 0.2mm pure/solid nickel (*not* nickel plated steel).
The cells are Samsung INR21700-30T, you can read a proper review on lygte-info.dk -
lygte-info.dk/...
3D printed end caps came from Thingiverse, there are a bunch of designs to choose from. Remember you can use a 18650 design for 21700 cells if you just play with the scale!
Music -
Psalm Trees, Guillaume Muschalle - Holding No Hands chll.to/c25df92e
112022/0324h PST 🇺🇸 Davies, thank you for the meticulous workmanship, performed on the
Li-Ion Cells. Soldering is an art and that’s what you did, not a big blob, not too less and not at all cold soldering result. The description while on the job is clean spotless and clear. The idea to cut the required length of Ni strip and slot with Dermel at the spot welding area, is phenomenal and I learned from you. Thank you.
Let’s know how you propose to connect the cells on what configuration. Best wishes and 73s…
Thank you for your kind words! If you check my more recent videos I had another go at building Li-Ion packs & I think I made a few improvements to the process.
Thank you. Please provide link.
@@sreekumarUSA ruclips.net/video/FhOsSC6HFFU/видео.html
you are the best by watching this video you solve my big problem . which balancer I should buy. Big Thanks again
Well done for not encouraging direct soldering to battery ends like so many other channels.
I tried that once & that was enough for me! IMO this is definitely something where you either buy the proper tool for the job, or just buy pre-assembled packs.
Thanks to
CJ Davies for providing the wonderful evaluation video
Great video. Thank you! You’ve got some great little workflow tricks here.
I actually did a follow up video a few weeks ago, I like to think I improved on a few things… but you can be the judge!
Excellent quality work. Very informative video. Thank you.
You shouldn't reheat solder, hold wires while soldering them, or tin the connector cups before inserting the wire. Use a jig to hold whatever you're soldering because you'll shake and cause a cold solder joint.
BS Nothing adverse by reheating solder.
Remarkable quality of the pack and your work.
If you've not checked out the update video (link in the description) I actually improved on a couple of the processes - or at least I think they're improvements!
I couldn’t believe how much the slots help. A spot welder that normally struggles with 0.2mm might be able to squeeze out just enough juice when you have the slit directing the current flow
I was surprised too! I've since discovered that a suitable pair of snips/scissors makes the slotting process a lot less hassle than using the Dremel though.
Superb video. Thank you.
Thanks for the informative video.
great… now I want to build me some packs too - not that I'd really own anything that'd fly/drive better with those than with the packs I already own, but just for having the fun of doing it.
I definitely know that feeling - I started looking into this because larger low-discharge LiPo packs are getting hard to find in the UK, but after buying the spot welder, a battery to power the spot welder & spending ages learning how to use it... But on the other hand it's kept me entertained for ages & I've learned a new skill!
Thank you for the video. What kind of battery spot welder are Using.
As per the title, Sequre SQ-SW1 👍
Nice video OP 👍
As other have said an excellent video and an instant sub from me.
(I likeed the tips like cutting the strips)
The only thing possibly missinig is a parts lists as Im still saving for a battery spot welder and I'd be interested in yours as you got on with it so well(?.) with it
I'm always slightly wary of mentioning parts/tools, because there are so many disingenuous 'reviews' on RUclips for undisclosed sponsored stuff! That said, this is the Sequre SQ-SW1 welder which I opted for because the maker of the kWeld was no longer shipping to the UK due to Brexit complications. I think once you are into the $200+ range of the kWeld, Malectrics, Sequre, etc. you should be good with whatever you buy, as long as you take the time to safely learn/practice the technique. If you haven't watched the follow up video I did about a year after this one I do recommend it - I addressed/improved a few things including the welder/battery, a better way to notch the strips, etc.
Noted, thanks @@CJDavies
I’d like to get into this for rebuilding battery packs. It seems like a whole thing in itself. Any tips on places to learn the basics, good places for tools, etc?
There is a huge community around building DIY packs in the electric bicycle/skateboard world. Forums like Endless Sphere have an absolute wealth of discussion, guides, experiences, etc. & that's how I learned enough to successfully build my first packs with relative confidence that I wouldn't trigger any disasters!
I'm not sure that 0.2 pure nickel strip is enough to carry the current of those cells which is 25a+ correct?
There's huge amounts of discussion/debate on this subject over on Endless Sphere, esk8.news, etc. with wildly different opinions depending who you listen to. On the one hand you have the theorycrafters/textbook warriors who will tell you that 0.2x10mm pure nickel won't even handle 10A without melting, but then on the other hand you have the people doing bench tests & reporting real world experiences using much less conductor for much higher loads with zero problems.
In my experiences so far with these packs, taking my actual application of multirotor drones into account (highly variable duty cycle, extremely good air circulation, etc.) the 0.2x10mm is plenty sufficient. If my application involved pulling the cells' full rated 35A for extended periods in an airtight enclosure, then that might be a completely different matter.
Hi,excellent tutorial but I am unable to balance charge the battery. It will charge without the balance lead though. Is the order of the balance leads essential to where they are soldered. Thanks for any information you can give.
Yes, the order of the balance wires in the connector is critical. If you Google 'Oscar Liang balance connector' he has a good article which explains it.
@@CJDavies thank you for replying. I sorted it out with a multimeter. Swapped a cable over and it balanced nicely. Thank you.
@@terrymurphy562
Off topic, kinda. Would one of these mini spot welders be able to weld 1/64" tin plate together? I ask as I have several old model railroad building kits that the walls, roof, trim are tin plate. It's called to solder them in the instructions, but came across these spot welders and it got my gears turning. 😃
I actually have no idea, but I do know that the metal you're spot welding makes a huge difference. When I was doing my research before building these packs I occasionally saw people asking about using copper strip & the response was always that copper needs substantially more power than nickel for the same thickness.
@@CJDaviesor you can weld nickel patch over copper and this sandwich produce enough heat to weld copper to the battery terminal
How did u get the solder to stick to the nickel tabs i can't get it to stick
There aren't really any special considerations when soldering to nickel strip. Use the flat face of a small chisel tip with decent quality flux core lead solder. Be aware that there is plenty of fake lead solder being sold online, especially on Amazon/eBay/AliExpress, which is actually lead-free. Try to buy a recognised brand like Kester from a reputable stockist like Digi-Key. I run my iron fairly hot (380-420°C) for work like this, as I want to be in & out quickly.
Bms not needed for flight packs??
No, you won’t find BMS in any hobby batteries for drones, cars, etc. But when you charge the packs, you connect the small white balance connector to the charger so that it can read & balance the individual cells in the pack.
Good brother👍
Can i use this battery pack on s500 frame drone
Please reply ❤️❤️❤️
I use two of these packs in parallel (so 4S2P) on 10” multirotor frames of similar size to the S500. One pack may not have high enough C rating.
Hi Davis! Where did you buy these tweezers?
They are Engineer PTN-03, I bought them here in the UK from Amazon. The curved tips are very useful!
@@CJDavies thank you!
All OK, but i miss the insulation rings at the positive end.
There is already a second layer of insulation/shrink at the positive end, any impact/damage that would possibly break through that would have to tear apart the whole pack anyway.
@@CJDavies OK you use high quality cells with thermal resistant insulation ring inserted, but if somebody copy your building method with cheap cells it could end in a disaster.
@@topeye4202 I never claimed this was an exhaustive guide to safety concerns when building LiIon packs - or even that this was a guide at all! And even if somebody were to copy exactly what I've done, without doing any proper research themselves (which I absolutely don't condone & even say so in the description), at least they wouldn't be soldering to the cells ;)
@@CJDavies It was just a tip for those who dont care about what you claim or not. In most other battery pack tutorials this additional insulation rings are standard....for some reason...
You really need to use isolator rings. Otherwise you have a good chance of a fire.
Considering the cells are held tight between the rigid end caps & internal spacer (which is then all encased in heatshrink) I would say it's a 'very low' chance. Any incident bad enough to break the spacers *&* then abrade through the heatshrink would write off the pack regardless of insulator rings.
@@CJDavies I think he means extra fishpaper rings around the top edge of the cells. On good cells they are built in but some not. Some people advise cutting the corners of nickel strip on positives to prevent any chance of shorting. You did fine but worth pointing out.
What type of battery cell monitor is that?
ISDT BG-8S
I have 4200mah 11c molicell
With 45a discharge current
Can i use 4S1P pack on s500 drone
Please reply bro
Its important for me
I think if you are careful, it will be okay. At full throttle your drone may draw quite a bit more than 45A, however at hover throttle & when flying gently it should draw substantially less than 45A. You can use the online tool eCalc to calculate (roughly) how much current your drone will actually draw at different throttles, speeds, etc.
@@CJDavies thanks for this
How amazing this is taking both of us from opposite side of world
What battery are you using to power your SQ-1? I can’t seem to get good welds with batteries way larger than Sequre recommended. Very frustrated with my welder.
I'm using the Turnigy Rapid 5500mAh 3S2P 140C from HobbyKing.
@@CJDavies thanks for the super quick reply. What are your short pulse and Ms set to? What does your welder say for watts when your battery is connected?
@@techdiverpratt5899 Now you're challenging my memory! I think I settled somewhere around 38ms with 20% pre-heat, though this *really* depends upon the specifics of your setup & what you're welding. I think the current during the pulse was 480-500A but I could be completely wrong as I don't have it on video.
Hello. Please don't take offense, but I can't help but say... Your spot welding is terrible. the points are overheated, the probes quickly deteriorate and it is necessary to cut the tapes.
This is all a consequence of incorrect welding modes, not the correct shape of the probes, and most likely a high internal resistance of the current source, or a low voltage, which does not allow the shutter speed to be short, so that there is no heat leaving the periphery of the point, and the current between the contact points along the upper tape..
All this must be done correctly, then there are no listed problems
My spot welding certainly isn't perfect & as this video explains this was one of my very first attempts. However from a functional assessment it is definitely not 'terrible'. The welds are physically & electrically strong, impossible to remove from the cells without tearing the nickel - unlike many attempts I have seen with too low power welders where the welds look much cleaner but will break off the cells.
I never claimed to be an expert & encouraged people to do their own research.
0.2 thick stripes! Kind of overkill!
It's interesting if you look at some of the other comments, there are people saying the exact opposite! There's a lot of debate online, but so much of it is either anecdotal or extrapolates from textbook figures which don't really take things like the duty cycle or airflow of flight packs into account. Regardless, these packs are still serving me fine so at least for my uses I can say that 0.2 was 'sufficient kill' 🙃
I don't know anything about batteries, I just googled "videos of British people talking funny", but this guy seems really obsessed with sales.
Why all the noise? Sounds like a alarm bell ringing in the background along with your music playing! Might be fine for you to give your commentary with this going on if its daytime but for watching at night i like to relax and this doesn’t do it for me!
An alarm bell? At what point?
I found this video ultimately very polarising. The content was too shocking for me, and I might need discharging from society because of it.
😔
Well, just take the positive side
:D