This was an excellent overview. I was just planning on ordering one of those kits. I hope you'll be looking into maximizing and enabling as much of options on this little device as is possible/practical (with additional component expansions). Also really appreciated your USB monitor reviews and comparisons. Subbed, adding the channel to my favorites, the likes of BigClive, AndreasSpiess, EEVBlog, Diode Gone Wild, Kasyan TV, and many others. Keep up the fantastic educational work!
I just picked up one of these kits. I know very little about electronics but I'm wanting to learn (at 40 years old). This video series is excellent (in fact all your videos are). I didn't understand everything you talked about, but I feel I've learned a LOT more than I knew before I started. Unfortunately my kit came with the SMD components not mounted so I have a harder challenge to build mine, but this will be something fun to look forward to down the line. Thanks for posting the good content!
Found your channel as I was looking for a new multimeter, stayed for the content i binged a good portion already :) Thank you very much for your content.
Very good tutorial. I have damaged the mega328p qfp mcu on my Drok fish8840. A capacitor I tested was not completely discharged. I have the new IC. And no worries. I have good soldering skills and smd rework equipment. Could you tell me please. Is the bootloader included in the firmware packages. And if not, is it available anyplace before I actually make the latest firmware it can accept? I intend on using an Arduino to flash the 328p. I really appreciate videos like yours.
nice, so mine is the same except it doesn't have the trimmer, came with 1.12k so i wonder the difference between the m and k versions, if i can install the m one without issues
Well, the trimmer did come with mine either, I added it, but it turned out not to be terribly useful. I think you can try the M one but I recommend to do that on a 2nd blank chip so you have a fall-back in case something goes wrong. That 2nd chip will be useful because the firmware changes frequently so its quite nice to be able to try new versions or config changes and still be able to fall back to the previous version
My tester has has a soldered on square chip of the uController instead, so I can't program the chip directly and I could not find any programming header on my version.
Yes, I have seen those. It save the maker a few pennies but locks you in. Not sure what can be done if you have one of those boards. Trying to rig a programming header seems a lot of effort and isn't without risk.
I guess one way to enable all of Marcu's improvements would be to create several EEProms, maybe one for 'simple' components, and one for the less used options like ring tester or zener diode. Yea, why not, I just ordered 4 EEPROMs, so maybe I create 2 or 3 for different purposes. f'ing excellent mate!!! You have just made my little cheapo tester a little cheapo tester on steroids. Well tidy! With 1.52m I'm going to maybe want to use all four eeproms - my little cheapo kit will not just be on steroids but cocaine as well!!!
In circuit ESR is like the normal capacitance test but used about max 400mV signal so normal silicon semiconductors (transistors, diodes) in the circuit should not turn on while the cap is being tested. Works quite well, I will probably show this in action in one of the next repair videos (if I remember). The leakage test is charging a cap and then testing it whether it there is current flowing through (electrical) leakage, i.e. an internal parallel resistor. Ideally there should be no current. A ring tester is used to check transformers or coils for shortened windings inside. That can happen if you for example overload the transformer. This kind of fault can usually not be found using a ohm meter because the change in overall coil resistance is too small to be detectable. A ring tester puts a pulse into the coil and counts how many rings (echos) it can detect. A shortened winding causes a high loss (dampening) and the ringing stops after maybe 1 or 2 oscillations. A good coil may ring 10 or 20 times. A good analog is a hairline crack in a metal or porcelain plate. When knocking it to make it "ring" the difference in sound between a good or bad (cracked) plate is very obvious. Its the same principle.
hello. I haven't done the procedure in the video yet, but I will. I have a white screen problem, do you know what it could be? Mine is still all original!
Couple of possibilities. I don't actually remember if there was a problem with the original firmware (loaded in the chip that came with the kit) but that could be a cause. Also, it is very easy to plug-in the display board and be off by one pin (ask me how I know). Of course something could be wrong with the PIC or soldering issues on the board. Hard to say. When you apply power, does the red LED come on?
@@TheHWcaveYes. The red led works. in the pass it was working normally. its start but remains on the blank screen. In the past, it would stay like this and go back to normal. as soon as i get it working i will apply the mod.
I bought one of these (M328+ TFT/AY-AT) according to pics, but it came with Russian language :( I want to upload the latest FW using Arduino Uno with Uno ZIF shield but have not found any videos/guides using this method. Could I do it using Arduino IDE? Tools/Board:/Arduino AVR Boards/Arduino Uno? Then in the Makefile, I need to edit the avrdude: ISP programmer options to # Arduino Uno bootloader via serial/USB? I'm just not sure how to do it.
There could be many reasons for this, from issues when loading the binary into the microcontroller to incompatible hardware. As a start, the binary is compatible with the hardware I got and this uses an ATmega328P and is similar to the MEGA328_COLOR_KIT but I had to do changes in the display pin assignment to make my board work. It is quite likely that your version uses a different display. If you know your type, check the comments in the config files (I marked all my changes) and select your display instead. Another way (that i used) is to run the kit with the original firmware that came with it (assuming that gives a working display) and measure with an oscilloscope what each of the display pins do, then tweak the config file to get a matching pin out. Not easy and it took me many versions to get it right.
@TheHWcave i used your modified version code. Can you tell me you hardware pin out. I will correct it on my board. And one more thing what Crystal you using in your hardware? 16mhz or 8mhz
@@pcmobiletechnicalsolutions8504 I am afraid that is set in the MakeFile. Look for the line FREQ = 8 (for 8 MHz). You would need to change that to 16 but then have to run the makefile, i.e. recompile the sources and create your own binary.
The versions (there is now a 1.47m, but I have not tried it) are all available github.com/madires/Transistortester-Warehouse/tree/master/Firmware/m-firmware There is a file "changes" in each version please have a look at that rather than me dumping the content into a comment. In short its mainly about changes in symbols, text and languages.
hi do you think its will be work if i buy new atmel328p i got similar one but unfortunetly 12v cabel touch one probe and now he dont want xd work xd shows probe short circuit xd
It sure would. There are boards out there that have that kind of hardware setup. Just this particular board is kind of at its limit. You can change the crystal to run it at 16 MHz but the speed isn't the problem, its the memory. Then again, I really don't need all the goodies that are available, so pick and choose is ok, as long as I can do the basics. For me that is component test, LCR and ESR. I very seldom use anything else.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
This was an excellent overview. I was just planning on ordering one of those kits. I hope you'll be looking into maximizing and enabling as much of options on this little device as is possible/practical (with additional component expansions).
Also really appreciated your USB monitor reviews and comparisons. Subbed, adding the channel to my favorites, the likes of BigClive, AndreasSpiess, EEVBlog, Diode Gone Wild, Kasyan TV, and many others. Keep up the fantastic educational work!
I just picked up one of these kits. I know very little about electronics but I'm wanting to learn (at 40 years old). This video series is excellent (in fact all your videos are). I didn't understand everything you talked about, but I feel I've learned a LOT more than I knew before I started. Unfortunately my kit came with the SMD components not mounted so I have a harder challenge to build mine, but this will be something fun to look forward to down the line. Thanks for posting the good content!
I have a a similar transistor tester and was wanting to update the firmware. Thank you for the very informative video!
Found your channel as I was looking for a new multimeter, stayed for the content i binged a good portion already :)
Thank you very much for your content.
Thanks for uploading this video.. this gives me to change the latest version...
Informative video! Thank you for sharing.
Great stuff.....thanks for this.
Very good tutorial. I have damaged the mega328p qfp mcu on my Drok fish8840. A capacitor I tested was not completely discharged.
I have the new IC. And no worries. I have good soldering skills and smd rework equipment.
Could you tell me please. Is the bootloader included in the firmware packages. And if not, is it available anyplace before I actually make the latest firmware it can accept? I intend on using an Arduino to flash the 328p.
I really appreciate videos like yours.
Yes the bootloader is included. A totally blank chip is all you need (and a programmer of course)
nice, so mine is the same except it doesn't have the trimmer, came with 1.12k so i wonder the difference between the m and k versions, if i can install the m one without issues
Well, the trimmer did come with mine either, I added it, but it turned out not to be terribly useful. I think you can try the M one but I recommend to do that on a 2nd blank chip so you have a fall-back in case something goes wrong. That 2nd chip will be useful because the firmware changes frequently so its quite nice to be able to try new versions or config changes and still be able to fall back to the previous version
My tester has has a soldered on square chip of the uController instead, so I can't program the chip directly and I could not find any programming header on my version.
Yes, I have seen those. It save the maker a few pennies but locks you in. Not sure what can be done if you have one of those boards. Trying to rig a programming header seems a lot of effort and isn't without risk.
I guess one way to enable all of Marcu's improvements would be to create several EEProms, maybe one for 'simple' components, and one for the less used options like ring tester or zener diode. Yea, why not, I just ordered 4 EEPROMs, so maybe I create 2 or 3 for different purposes. f'ing excellent mate!!! You have just made my little cheapo tester a little cheapo tester on steroids. Well tidy! With 1.52m I'm going to maybe want to use all four eeproms - my little cheapo kit will not just be on steroids but cocaine as well!!!
I'm curious to see the leakage test (and in-circuit ESR)
And the ring test? What is that?
In circuit ESR is like the normal capacitance test but used about max 400mV signal so normal silicon semiconductors (transistors, diodes) in the circuit should not turn on while the cap is being tested. Works quite well, I will probably show this in action in one of the next repair videos (if I remember). The leakage test is charging a cap and then testing it whether it there is current flowing through (electrical) leakage, i.e. an internal parallel resistor. Ideally there should be no current.
A ring tester is used to check transformers or coils for shortened windings inside. That can happen if you for example overload the transformer. This kind of fault can usually not be found using a ohm meter because the change in overall coil resistance is too small to be detectable. A ring tester puts a pulse into the coil and counts how many rings (echos) it can detect. A shortened winding causes a high loss (dampening) and the ringing stops after maybe 1 or 2 oscillations. A good coil may ring 10 or 20 times. A good analog is a hairline crack in a metal or porcelain plate. When knocking it to make it "ring" the difference in sound between a good or bad (cracked) plate is very obvious. Its the same principle.
hello. I haven't done the procedure in the video yet, but I will. I have a white screen problem, do you know what it could be?
Mine is still all original!
Couple of possibilities. I don't actually remember if there was a problem with the original firmware (loaded in the chip that came with the kit) but that could be a cause. Also, it is very easy to plug-in the display board and be off by one pin (ask me how I know). Of course something could be wrong with the PIC or soldering issues on the board. Hard to say. When you apply power, does the red LED come on?
@@TheHWcaveYes. The red led works. in the pass it was working normally. its start but remains on the blank screen. In the past, it would stay like this and go back to normal.
as soon as i get it working i will apply the mod.
I bought one of these (M328+ TFT/AY-AT) according to pics, but it came with Russian language :( I want to upload the latest FW using Arduino Uno with Uno ZIF shield but have not found any videos/guides using this method. Could I do it using Arduino IDE? Tools/Board:/Arduino AVR Boards/Arduino Uno? Then in the Makefile, I need to edit the avrdude: ISP programmer options to # Arduino Uno bootloader via serial/USB? I'm just not sure how to do it.
Sorry, I have not tried doing this with the Arduino and can't help
sir i installed your 1.46m version but no display
There could be many reasons for this, from issues when loading the binary into the microcontroller to incompatible hardware. As a start, the binary is compatible with the hardware I got and this uses an ATmega328P and is similar to the MEGA328_COLOR_KIT but I had to do changes in the display pin assignment to make my board work. It is quite likely that your version uses a different display. If you know your type, check the comments in the config files (I marked all my changes) and select your display instead. Another way (that i used) is to run the kit with the original firmware that came with it (assuming that gives a working display) and measure with an oscilloscope what each of the display pins do, then tweak the config file to get a matching pin out. Not easy and it took me many versions to get it right.
@TheHWcave i used your modified version code. Can you tell me you hardware pin out. I will correct it on my board. And one more thing what Crystal you using in your hardware? 16mhz or 8mhz
@@pcmobiletechnicalsolutions8504 The only information I still have is what I documented in config_328h (marked with
@@TheHWcave can you please tell me where in the code i need to change if use 16mhz Crystal?
@@pcmobiletechnicalsolutions8504 I am afraid that is set in the MakeFile. Look for the line FREQ = 8 (for 8 MHz). You would need to change that to 16 but then have to run the makefile, i.e. recompile the sources and create your own binary.
can i install the new firmware without making the modifications? which do u suggest?
Yes you can. I would always use the latest version
Bravo bravo bravo
Great video! What is the difference between 1.45M and 1.46M?
The versions (there is now a 1.47m, but I have not tried it) are all available github.com/madires/Transistortester-Warehouse/tree/master/Firmware/m-firmware
There is a file "changes" in each version please have a look at that rather than me dumping the content into a comment. In short its mainly about changes in symbols, text and languages.
hi do you think its will be work if i buy new atmel328p i got similar one but unfortunetly 12v cabel touch one probe and now he dont want xd work xd shows probe short circuit xd
It may work, but don't forget you have to program the chip with the firmware. A freshly bought chip is going to be blank
Why didn,t "make upload"?
may be a better chip with double of everything would do wonders
It sure would. There are boards out there that have that kind of hardware setup. Just this particular board is kind of at its limit. You can change the crystal to run it at 16 MHz but the speed isn't the problem, its the memory. Then again, I really don't need all the goodies that are available, so pick and choose is ok, as long as I can do the basics. For me that is component test, LCR and ESR. I very seldom use anything else.
You can unlock them with some burners
Must check my tester to see which firmware it has on it 😊
I could compile it fine using msys/mingw
thanks. That is useful to know