Very interesting video! I own a mini cooper S R56 with an N14 engine and apparently the turbo in this car is somewhat different in terms of design, although I think the engine is exactly the same. LIKE and greetings from Barcelona !!
The compressed air outlet is the biggest difference, as for the mini it's not mounted on top but on the right side of the turbo. In terms of installation, the steps are as good as the same.
Good morning, I need help, do all the steps as in the video but when starting I have an air leak I hear a loud sound and it comes from where the 10 screws go with the torque at 20, how can I solve it? I put the metal wedges on it. They fell to the ground when I removed the turbo but I don't know if those shims are what prevent the piece from settling completely and the air that should come out through the exhaust escapes through there. The sound is like when you remove the oxygen sensor and start the car without installing the sensor.
I have oil comming out from the oil feeding pipe that goes into the turbo on my thp 156 (leaking from the area around the Banjo bold at the top under the snall heat shild). From what I can tell based on your video, to replace the feed pipe, I need to remove the big pipe going down from the turbo along with the heat shield to get to the other end of the feed pipe? Does that sound about right? Also, you don't happen to have any disassemble instructions covering that?
Hi Mikeal Fries, yes we have a video of disassembling the downpipe. Question, can the oil leak not be solved by using 2 x new copper gaskets under and above the oil supply line? Downpipe disassembly see the video ruclips.net/video/7LWK8Ao3k0g/видео.html (1) unscrew the top O2 censor sl 22 mm also loosen the electrical connector, (2) indeed dismantle the top heat shield - sl 10 mm. (3) remove the 3 nuts sl 12 or 13 mm and if possible remove the 3 studbolts. (4) remove lower O2 sensor sl 22 and disconnect the electrical connector. (5) remove exhaust clamp sl 17 or 19 mm (6) remove 2 x m8 sl 13mm bracket. (7) try lowering and removing the downpipe. (8) remove lower heat shield sl10 mm. Now you can get to the bottom banjo bolt from the oil supply to the turbo. Assembly in reverse order. Use new gasket and exhaust clamp. The part numbers are in the description of the video. Goodluck!
@@THPTuning thx man! The oil is leaking from where the pipe goes into the housing where the banjo bolt is inserted... so I guess there is no way around it, but to spend a day batteling the heat shield. I have used ultra heat resistant silicone as a temporary fix, but it needs to be addressed at some point I guess
Hi how are you, im planning of fitting a 200/208 turbo on my 165 engine, and remap , it should be around 240hp, does the engine support it? Or do i have to forge it? And is an IC needed? Also how about the clutch?
Hi, it would be a great setup! I currently run 232hp and 370nm with stock internals and indeed 240/245hp is the max. Clutch can handle the torque of the diesel engines, so 400nm may not be a problem.
Put oil in it and crank it 3 times a 20 seconds. I personally take the green fuse with 30 ampere out. Ep6cdt engine is in my opinion a worst case. But I have fun with it. Ahh if I full throttle my turbo just makes max 0,6bar. Is and should is the same.
Hi great job, just wondering if you put the larger turbo on do you need a remap if do you know where to get the maps for the Kess?
Hey, can you tell me how to adjust west gate when replace new turbo?
Super! Merci pour ce tutorial !!
Very interesting video! I own a mini cooper S R56 with an N14 engine and apparently the turbo in this car is somewhat different in terms of design, although I think the engine is exactly the same. LIKE and greetings from Barcelona !!
The compressed air outlet is the biggest difference, as for the mini it's not mounted on top but on the right side of the turbo. In terms of installation, the steps are as good as the same.
Good morning, I need help, do all the steps as in the video but when starting I have an air leak I hear a loud sound and it comes from where the 10 screws go with the torque at 20, how can I solve it? I put the metal wedges on it. They fell to the ground when I removed the turbo but I don't know if those shims are what prevent the piece from settling completely and the air that should come out through the exhaust escapes through there. The sound is like when you remove the oxygen sensor and start the car without installing the sensor.
I need a new turbine for a 207 RC 2006. Can anyone advise me on what to buy? item number, model...
I have oil comming out from the oil feeding pipe that goes into the turbo on my thp 156 (leaking from the area around the Banjo bold at the top under the snall heat shild). From what I can tell based on your video, to replace the feed pipe, I need to remove the big pipe going down from the turbo along with the heat shield to get to the other end of the feed pipe? Does that sound about right? Also, you don't happen to have any disassemble instructions covering that?
Hi Mikeal Fries, yes we have a video of disassembling the downpipe. Question, can the oil leak not be solved by using 2 x new copper gaskets under and above the oil supply line? Downpipe disassembly see the video ruclips.net/video/7LWK8Ao3k0g/видео.html
(1) unscrew the top O2 censor sl 22 mm also loosen the electrical connector, (2) indeed dismantle the top heat shield - sl 10 mm. (3) remove the 3 nuts sl 12 or 13 mm and if possible remove the 3 studbolts. (4) remove lower O2 sensor sl 22 and disconnect the electrical connector. (5) remove exhaust clamp sl 17 or 19 mm (6) remove 2 x m8 sl 13mm bracket. (7) try lowering and removing the downpipe. (8) remove lower heat shield sl10 mm. Now you can get to the bottom banjo bolt from the oil supply to the turbo. Assembly in reverse order. Use new gasket and exhaust clamp. The part numbers are in the description of the video. Goodluck!
@@THPTuning thx man! The oil is leaking from where the pipe goes into the housing where the banjo bolt is inserted... so I guess there is no way around it, but to spend a day batteling the heat shield. I have used ultra heat resistant silicone as a temporary fix, but it needs to be addressed at some point I guess
@@THPTuning ... would I need to drain the engine oil as well before replacing the oil feed line? Or is that not needed?
@@synthmike80 It is not needed to drain the engine oil.
@@THPTuning cool, thx!
Hi how are you, im planning of fitting a 200/208 turbo on my 165 engine, and remap , it should be around 240hp, does the engine support it? Or do i have to forge it? And is an IC needed? Also how about the clutch?
Hi, it would be a great setup!
I currently run 232hp and 370nm with stock internals and indeed 240/245hp is the max.
Clutch can handle the torque of the diesel engines, so 400nm may not be a problem.
@@THPTuning so around 240 is the max the engine supports? I dont like being at the limits ;(
@@THPTuning thanks for your answer
How to do the wastegate adjustment ?
half a turn at a time
Thp👍
Hei in ur opinion which engine is better hdi or thp?
HDI, its an other disign
Put oil in it and crank it 3 times a 20 seconds. I personally take the green fuse with 30 ampere out. Ep6cdt engine is in my opinion a worst case. But I have fun with it.
Ahh if I full throttle my turbo just makes max 0,6bar. Is and should is the same.
I think the wastegate should be closed a bit its full open
Is it an shitty engine for you? French peoples had so many problem with this one.
Depends on maintenance. Some people forget about it...
Do you do it for others as well? I wanna install it on my car. How can I be in contact with you?
Follow the steps on the video, with the correct tools and patience it can be done easily.