hey Josh i’m new to our channel however i did grow up in South Florida and have owned 17 or 18 boats in my life i am now a retired Woodworker but rebuilding rotten transoms is something i learned as a teenager my only advice is that AC plywood and builder grade products do work but don’t have the longevity that Marine Plys do although sometimes you need to do whatever it takes to get that particular boat safely back into the water and start having fun with it as it was intended to do
I couldn't agree with you more. At the time I used what I could get, later in the build I found a supplier about an hours drive away that sold Marine Grade Plywood. If I had it to do over again I would do everything marine grade.
I'm in the middle of a transom rebuild on an old [1972] Starcraft trihull [model TR170]. My fabrication is cruder than you've done, as I'm basically giving the boat away with an outboard motor in the deal. I expect the new owner to have the hull for two or three years, tops. The original plywood probably held up for 30+ of the past 46 years; my half-fast job [and it won't be THAT bad!] should be safe for another half decade. By then the boat will probably be junked.
Quick question for a younger man you sure educated in boats. Do you have a boat building back ground? Also was the old transom held in by any screws or just simply glass? I'm asking because I'm getting ready to replace a transom on a boat I have been working on for 2 years eating it all built the way I want it and I want to replace the transom and make it a little beefier. I think we can all agree you can't have too much transom.
i had a 21 ft starcraft it was a dog i took old trasom out used as a patern ?? worked great also leaked soi glassed the hull big diff in the ride you can do it
I went with what I could get in the beginning of the project. Later on I found a semi-local source that I could buy marine grade without paying delivery fees.
Did you remove the screws holding ply together before applying fiberglass? What you did looks good. I’m educating myself on a 1987 Crappie Master bass boat transom. Fun stuff. 🤦🏼♂️
Resin coat the plywood first so it doesn't steal the resin from your glass later. After it cures, sandwich two layers of chopped mat between them and use weights on a flat floor rather than clamps and screws.
Looked at my boat today, an old lone star,needs same thing done,i do woodworking but not on boats,like what you done,im lost on the details after the cut,any clue what they charge for this?
Ronald Howell if you do woodworking in general you'll do just fine working on your boat. What details are you lost on and I'll try my best to explain. I would say material costs could be a couple hundred dollars. I bought a large supply of fiberglass materials for all of my boat restoration so I am not sure exactly how much it would cost to only do the transom. The plywood will run between $35 - $60 depending on what grade you buy.
This boat project has been my first time using fiberglass. I just have to say no matter how many videos I watched or forums I read, for me I learned more by getting the materials and diving in. I'm not an expert, but I know the things to look for to keep from getting in trouble. Things to remember from my point of view: 1. Always prep your surface (such as sanding and wiping down with acetone) 2. Always do a dry run with laying out your glass matting before you apply resin to it. 3. When mixing your hardener with your resin stir for 120 seconds 4. Roll out all of your air bubbles or as much as possible. 5. Keep on keeping on and don't give up!
Lone Star Boats became Chrysler's. And they weren't bad boats, even if the 60's/70's style graphics on them were kind'a cheesy. I dealt one a couple of years ago that was old as dirt and still solid. Hung a Tower of Power on the transom and it didn't budge!
+Randy Turner I used an angle finder at the time to find that measurement and I really can't remember specifically, but if I had to guess it was about 108° or so.
Hey Jmink--back with a question. I have a 76 Glastron Sportster XL (extremely similar to yours accept the stringers are different). Anyway, I am getting spider cracks trying to take off the cap. I understand that the cap is "glassed" onto the transom. I am using a metal wedge from underneath inside the cap to break the glassing free from the inside, but it looks like they glassed the whole way up from where the transom and he cap meet from the inside to the top of the transom--about 4-5 inches. Did you use a sawz-all? I do not want to keep wedging and tapping. It's getting me frustrated. Any help?
+Jeff Pereyda in my boat the cap/hull had a seam that was glassed from the inside on the hull that rose above the transom. I just use my oscillating tool from Harbor Freight to cut the seam loose. You can see a small glimpse of me doing this in the video I shot here: ruclips.net/video/TqfHRcMEOIM/видео.htmlm26s
Great videos! Lots of useful information for me while I'm redoing my '71 Glastron V176 Swinger. I do have a question, what kind of roller did you use for the resin? Did you have issues with the mat pulling off?
I'm this will be fine for this boat. In the future, I would use an Epoxy Resin with some fiber build to laminate the wood together. West System makes some good stuff...
Subbed! I'm considering a skiff restoration myself and your vids are very insightful into what is actually required to get it done. Prior to doing this had you done any fiberglass or resto work before? I'm an IT guy and know absolutely nothing about boats but it looks like fun and I think the satisfaction of rebuilding a boat I would use to go fishing would be awesome. Thanks!
s1rGr1nG0 I had no fiberglass experience whatsoever before starting this project. I just studied up on it before getting started. I have to say even though I am not finished with the project yet, that feeling of rebuilding something and using it for fun. That's going to be a great feeling. Thanks for following along!
A few factors that influenced my decision. The first was that I wanted an interior grade plywood that wasn't treated with anything. Second I wanted a smooth surface and something that had little to no imperfections. The third factor was at that time I hadn't found a "local" vendor that sold marine grade plywood so this was the best I could find within a close range of home.
@@jmink Thank you for the reply and explanation! I have a local source for marine grade, I'm trying to get over the price difference though! Currently redoing transom and stringers, next will be floor, front and rear deck.
At the time, I didn't have a source for marine grade plywood. Also, because of this, I coated everything in resin. If you can get marine grade, I would recommend it.
No need at all to use "marine grade" plywood. "Marine-grade" just means both sides are finished with no knots. It was used to build complete plywood hulls; it's not necessary for this kind of internal structural use.
Hi David Zahm, here's what I am referring to www.amazon.com/Loctite-1390595-Cartridge-Polyurethane-Construction/dp/B001E3VQBE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1435757671&sr=1-1&keywords=PL+Glue&pebp=1435757868390&perid=1NFKXQTN90RN1MD67R30
Great Videos Josh! Love the complete rebuild. I'm working on a project at the moment and would love to get some advice from you in regards to what i can do to make sure i do things right. Any way I could you on skype or facebook? Cheers, Tim from New Zealand
+Timothy Prince thanks for the kind words! I'd be happy to offer any knowledge that I have. I just setup the new facebook page you can find me here - facebook.com/jminkchannel/ Thanks for watching and subscribing!
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks
Thank you! I hope the video helped.
this series is great man love your vids
hey Josh i’m new to our channel however i did grow up in South Florida and have owned 17 or 18 boats in my life i am now a retired Woodworker but rebuilding rotten transoms is something i learned as a teenager my only advice is that AC plywood and builder grade products do work but don’t have the longevity that Marine Plys do although sometimes you need to do whatever it takes to get that particular boat safely back into the water and start having fun with it as it was intended to do
I couldn't agree with you more. At the time I used what I could get, later in the build I found a supplier about an hours drive away that sold Marine Grade Plywood. If I had it to do over again I would do everything marine grade.
I'm in the middle of a transom rebuild on an old [1972] Starcraft trihull [model TR170]. My fabrication is cruder than you've done, as I'm basically giving the boat away with an outboard motor in the deal. I expect the new owner to have the hull for two or three years, tops. The original plywood probably held up for 30+ of the past 46 years; my half-fast job [and it won't be THAT bad!] should be safe for another half decade. By then the boat will probably be junked.
How do you fit a 3/4 thick wood flush on a transom that is bowed?
When you did your fiberglass did you have any tiny air bubbles in the resin? Almost like a foam? How did you solve the issue?
Hello how are you ? one question the playwood you use for the transon may be the one from Home Depot?
Quick question for a younger man you sure educated in boats. Do you have a boat building back ground? Also was the old transom held in by any screws or just simply glass? I'm asking because I'm getting ready to replace a transom on a boat I have been working on for 2 years eating it all built the way I want it and I want to replace the transom and make it a little beefier. I think we can all agree you can't have too much transom.
i had a 21 ft starcraft it was a dog i took old trasom out used as a patern ?? worked great also leaked soi glassed the hull big diff in the ride you can do it
Why did you go with pine, instead of marine plywood. Was cost a factor?
I went with what I could get in the beginning of the project. Later on I found a semi-local source that I could buy marine grade without paying delivery fees.
Did you remove the screws holding ply together before applying fiberglass?
What you did looks good. I’m educating myself on a 1987 Crappie Master bass boat transom. Fun stuff. 🤦🏼♂️
Resin coat the plywood first so it doesn't steal the resin from your glass later. After it cures, sandwich two layers of chopped mat between them and use weights on a flat floor rather than clamps and screws.
Yes, 6:03.
Yes, 6:03.
What are your thoughts on using coosa board for a transom - would the benefits justify the price?
Looked at my boat today, an old lone star,needs same thing done,i do woodworking but not on boats,like what you done,im lost on the details after the cut,any clue what they charge for this?
Ronald Howell if you do woodworking in general you'll do just fine working on your boat. What details are you lost on and I'll try my best to explain. I would say material costs could be a couple hundred dollars. I bought a large supply of fiberglass materials for all of my boat restoration so I am not sure exactly how much it would cost to only do the transom. The plywood will run between $35 - $60 depending on what grade you buy.
Have never tryed fiberglass, i may watch some vids on it,
This boat project has been my first time using fiberglass. I just have to say no matter how many videos I watched or forums I read, for me I learned more by getting the materials and diving in. I'm not an expert, but I know the things to look for to keep from getting in trouble. Things to remember from my point of view: 1. Always prep your surface (such as sanding and wiping down with acetone) 2. Always do a dry run with laying out your glass matting before you apply resin to it. 3. When mixing your hardener with your resin stir for 120 seconds 4. Roll out all of your air bubbles or as much as possible. 5. Keep on keeping on and don't give up!
Lone Star Boats became Chrysler's. And they weren't bad boats, even if the 60's/70's style graphics on them were kind'a cheesy. I dealt one a couple of years ago that was old as dirt and still solid. Hung a Tower of Power on the transom and it didn't budge!
I have a 77 arrow glass bowrider simular to your boat. What angle did you cut the tramson top and bottom?
+Randy Turner I used an angle finder at the time to find that measurement and I really can't remember specifically, but if I had to guess it was about 108° or so.
gd job bro. you can improve the press of 2plywood it will be perfect bonding.
Hey Jmink--back with a question. I have a 76 Glastron Sportster XL (extremely similar to yours accept the stringers are different). Anyway, I am getting spider cracks trying to take off the cap. I understand that the cap is "glassed" onto the transom. I am using a metal wedge from underneath inside the cap to break the glassing free from the inside, but it looks like they glassed the whole way up from where the transom and he cap meet from the inside to the top of the transom--about 4-5 inches. Did you use a sawz-all? I do not want to keep wedging and tapping. It's getting me frustrated. Any help?
+Jeff Pereyda in my boat the cap/hull had a seam that was glassed from the inside on the hull that rose above the transom. I just use my oscillating tool from Harbor Freight to cut the seam loose. You can see a small glimpse of me doing this in the video I shot here: ruclips.net/video/TqfHRcMEOIM/видео.htmlm26s
We have had it for about 15 years my dad is a pilot he bought it from a pilot so has been well maintained. Does your boat have power trim?
Cool, my dad is a pilot too. Unfortunately my boat does not have power trim.
Hello, What kind of glue is that you are used? I know you mention po glue, I like to know the exact one
Thank you
I used PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive. I found it at my local Lowe's.
Great videos! Lots of useful information for me while I'm redoing my '71 Glastron V176 Swinger. I do have a question, what kind of roller did you use for the resin? Did you have issues with the mat pulling off?
I'm this will be fine for this boat. In the future, I would use an Epoxy Resin with some fiber build to laminate the wood together. West System makes some good stuff...
Polyester smells better than epoxy though. 😋
Subbed! I'm considering a skiff restoration myself and your vids are very insightful into what is actually required to get it done. Prior to doing this had you done any fiberglass or resto work before? I'm an IT guy and know absolutely nothing about boats but it looks like fun and I think the satisfaction of rebuilding a boat I would use to go fishing would be awesome.
Thanks!
s1rGr1nG0 I had no fiberglass experience whatsoever before starting this project. I just studied up on it before getting started. I have to say even though I am not finished with the project yet, that feeling of rebuilding something and using it for fun. That's going to be a great feeling. Thanks for following along!
What type of respirator did you use?
+James F I ordered this one here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009363G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Was it sticky after a few days?
+Adrian Wasyk no the temperature was really high outside (above 90° F) when I did all of that, so everything cured pretty quick.
What was your reason for a\c grade vs marine grade? Price aside.
A few factors that influenced my decision. The first was that I wanted an interior grade plywood that wasn't treated with anything. Second I wanted a smooth surface and something that had little to no imperfections. The third factor was at that time I hadn't found a "local" vendor that sold marine grade plywood so this was the best I could find within a close range of home.
@@jmink Thank you for the reply and explanation!
I have a local source for marine grade, I'm trying to get over the price difference though! Currently redoing transom and stringers, next will be floor, front and rear deck.
I agree, those marine grade are still the most expensive sheets of plywood I've ever bought. Good luck with the transom, stringers and deck.
Hi I have a 1974 Glastron V156 with a 85 hp Mercury
Shawn Yager awesome! How long have you had it?
Marine grade plywood ?
At the time, I didn't have a source for marine grade plywood. Also, because of this, I coated everything in resin. If you can get marine grade, I would recommend it.
No need at all to use "marine grade" plywood. "Marine-grade" just means both sides are finished with no knots. It was used to build complete plywood hulls; it's not necessary for this kind of internal structural use.
Marine grade means its made from hardwood and also with a waterproof glue.
when you say PO glue....... what glue are you using
Hi David Zahm, here's what I am referring to www.amazon.com/Loctite-1390595-Cartridge-Polyurethane-Construction/dp/B001E3VQBE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1435757671&sr=1-1&keywords=PL+Glue&pebp=1435757868390&perid=1NFKXQTN90RN1MD67R30
just laminate with csm and laminating resin. glue = bad job.
Great Videos Josh! Love the complete rebuild. I'm working on a project at the moment and would love to get some advice from you in regards to what i can do to make sure i do things right. Any way I could you on skype or facebook?
Cheers, Tim from New Zealand
+Timothy Prince thanks for the kind words! I'd be happy to offer any knowledge that I have. I just setup the new facebook page you can find me here - facebook.com/jminkchannel/
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
If the drywall screws were not removed , you will have problems later.
The drywall screws were removed and filled with fiberglass.