When they built wagons in the past, they would completely build them, then take them apart and paint (even in the bolt holes) then reassemble the wagon. They used regular paint then finished with boiled linseed oil to make it waterproof and shiny. The iron fittings can be finished by heating and coating with linseed oil. It will blacken and seal.
Highly recommend you to paint the axel. Since the u-bolts are stainless and in contact with the carbon steel axel, it will cause an acceleration of corrosion on the axel. Clean of the surface rust, degrease, etching primer and two coats of epoxy based coating. Also install the grease nipples, you will have to regrease the turntable at some point, it will be a pain without grease nipples.. chamfer the holes for the nipples on the inside to avoid burrs scratching the surface of the turntables.
Hi Carl, really impressed you could get down and pick up the wheels. I too suffer with Ankylosing Spondylitis and am buggered if I could get that low, mind you I'm 70 now. Alas the mind's willing but the flesh is weak. Take care of yourself pal. Regards Jim.
Carl, you need a washer between the wheel and the wooden beam on the axle. I suggest a 1/4" plate screwed the beam end, secured with countersunk wood screws. Please also consider the reaction between Steel and Oak .... maybe a piece of canvas between the axle and the beam and the nut plates and beams. IDK what to say about the drilled holes maybe a dielectic grease or Battery terminal grease.
Might already be mentioned but a similar design was brought to the Intermountain West of the US by the Basque sheepherders in the early days of settling there. They became known as "Sheep Camps" and are still in use today although somewhat modernized with farm implement carriages and insulated aluminum shells in some cases. Old ones with the canvas covers on a bowed ash frame can be found on private properties restored and used as guest sleeping quarters and I've spent quite a few peaceful nights in them over the years but never owned one. Love your attention to detail!
... some of the tradition mobile huts in Europe and USA are being displaced by "ThOWs" (Tiny House on Wheels). This may be good or not. Keeping traditions alive is important but so too is adapting them to suit current expectations of the minimum modicum of function and comfort. One of the reseasons I celebrate this build if a "Shepards Hut" is new (old) ideas can be revisited that can inform current typologies, theories and practical applications. As an Architect, I lament that few current students, practioners and academics reference not just past aesthetic but also past materials and construction techniques. Over my 45+ year career, I have always maintained that you cannot design (as an architect) and document non-standard buildings if you don't understand standard construction methods, standard materials and standard details; to push the boundaries, you first need to understand the assumed boundaries. Also, you need to be able to think in 3D. The Canadian architech, Frank Gehry, has all all this in spades, as did Jørn Utzon Many times in my carrier I have questioned the accepted wisdom; "Why do we do this this way?". To which I invariably got the response, "But everyone does it that way!". To which I'd ask "But why?". Nearly 100% of replies (or variants) were, "because everyone else does it this way, it must be cheaper /quicker /more efficent" ~ idiots using lame excuses to justify their laziness and poor time /cost management and lack of vision. An exemplar ofthinking beyond the "accepted way buildings are designed, detailed, skinned and built" is the Canadian architect, Frank Gehry, though he is in the shadows of Jørn Utzon, who conceptualised, designed and documenter the SOH in the days before 2D & 3D CAD. Those who revisit past technologies and ideas are so important in modern architecture, design, engineering, product manufacture, etc, but most practitioners in these space have forgotten that the celebrated pinnacle we have currently assended owes it's significance to what has gone before... and that we still have more to learn from how our forebares did things (and why). Apologies for the rant, but apparently it was something I needed to express.
Hey Roger! Great job! As a cabinet maker and furniture restorer I would recommend you to treat the wood with something where it is i contact with iron. The oak tanins will corrode the iron and rust quickly. The best solution is to have contact peaces and bushings in nylon or brass to avoid this. Kind regards from Stockholm
They certainly will outlast all of us, that is a statement that you won't hear very often these days. Building things to last because you can and you are proud of your work/skills, not because you're only in it for the money.
Great craftmanship as always! To make it perfect you might want to give the axle a thin rub with some Linseed oil varnish. It will react with the rust and turn it into an elastic & black rust protection coat. (In the Middle Ages, linseed oil was used as an anti-corrosion agent for armour and weapons. However, the process has nothing to do with (moonshining). It was also used in vehicle construction in the past. Today, people are returning to this non-toxic type of preservation in classic car circles, in the preservation of historical monuments and in healthy building. The oil forms a water-insoluble compound with Fe3+ ions in the rust. In addition, the oil forms a crack-free coating after setting)
I thought so too! Only improvement would be to exhale on the way up. Not a good idea to hold your breath while lifting. Brilliant build and video. It's wonderful to watch someone with such great skills and interest in doing things the correct way! I know nothing about carpentry/wood working, but you make it look like a pleasurable challenge.
I have enjoy every aspect of you projects, you are a accomplished, carpenter, designer and craftsman, you will go far. Your voice is so soothing and mesmerizing and your hands wonderful to watch, besides your a + for eye candy. Hope your range rover is feeling well after its surgery and will see you through many more miles of creativity. Here's tons of hugs and lots of my love. No more bloody fingers please. Afriend.
Facinating Carl. A pleasure to watch your detailed 'how to'...not that I am ever going to need a swanky turn table of such magnitude. 😂🎉 Well done m'dear.
Hi Carl, great series. Can I suggest you dress the unfinished steel parts (Axle, King Pin etc) with Lanolin. It will prevent rust and lubricate and would have been what was originally applied those parts. It is all natural and highly effective.
You will need a double washer between the wheel and the axle beam to prevent eating up the wood. 2 washers reduce inner washer spinning. And, the outer nut should be a castle nut with a cotter pin (you can cut your nut into one) going through the axle. The one you used can still work it's way off. Dremel cut a 1 complete revolution spiral in the axle to accept some grease with putting grease fittings on the wheels, so you don't eat up the metal while scaring off the neighbors from the squealing.
Thanks for another good video. My old back squirmed a bit when you lifted up the wheels though. Youth has its advantages. 😀 I look forward to the next video.
Great episode, what an undertaking!!! Love it. I reckon you got that assembly off those two horses just in time, definitely past it maximum load limit Best regards
"... but having now gone through the whole process of buiding it I'm sure it was the right decision. They look great and will certainly outlast all of us." EPIC!!! :o) Looking forward to the sequel!
Well done! I saw a trick for keeping a drill bit straight when drilling down without a drill press. Drill a 2” hole (or whatever, according to circumstances) in a piece of acrylic mirror and lay it down face up on the surface to be drilled. The centre of the hole in the mirror should be the mark for your hole. This way, if the reflection of your drill bit looks crooked in comparison to the actual drill bit, you can correct until they’re straight and aligned. Great innit?
Nice job. I have always buttered the drill for these jobs with beeswax; found it virtually stopped having a nasty bite which is always at the wrong time and place. Best wishes from the UK.
@carlrogers -- Beautiful job on this build - love your videos. While I"m in Salt Lake City now, I lived in Colomiers for a year cycling north and south of your beautiful region.
3:00 one advice, drill some 3cm from the bottom on the brackets side and then drill from the top but you need to use drill bit for metal. It will find the easiest path and it will drill to the brackets. Edit, oh you use this method later. This is how I drill holes for post frame building.
Hey dude you can buy gator blocks which are hardened steel blocks with all the drill sizes through them. You then clamp the block to work piece and drill through to keeps the bit square. You may have seen them before or even own them but thought I’d share.
If you can put in the grease nipples, my own experience of chicken sheds and shepherd huts dating from the late nineteenth and early twentieth century is that they spend huge amounts of time not moving in often damp conditions. they can and do cease or grate requiring huge effort by several strong blokes with long levers to move if at all, grease nipples in the turntable and wheels will make a world of difference. One more word of advice grease before moving and again once sited and stand wheels on paving slabs or similar.
Hi Carl, good news on the choice of cast iron for the turntable.... cast iron has self lubricating properties due to the high carbon/graphite content. If you decide to lubricate then go with a graphite based lubricant. Look it up.
Maybe you won't need grease zerks for the plates (i still would add them regardless - even if cast iron is self lubricating, it does get bound up when it gets cruddy and grease keeps the elements out of the plate) you will need them for the wheels. I'd cut small spirals in the shaft too, using a needle file to allow grease to circulate - you don't need them to be big, about a mm would be more than enough, just to let the grease reach all the contact area.
Thinking about flexing ability of the whole chasis on country roads. Most probably old wagons had more flex in joints because of fixing methods and lower accuracy. Here, You fix everything with 0,01mm tolerances and might be that wagon will ride on 3 wheels all the time. Love perfect woodworking skills, whole idea and patience, hate cheap threaded rod :( also should put washers between wheels hubs and oak. I have built a steel log trailer out of wooden wagon using it's axles, so I've kinda been there ;)
It’s been great to watch your new project over the last month Carl and I don’t doubt that the finished axle will be the best of craftsmanship you can achieve and for the best researched of reasons. After half my life on this globe I’ve learned never to comment on a job halfway through and I’ve no doubt this will be as good as your roof(s) and your staircase. Keep it up fella, it'll last a thousand times longer than your visa unfortunately 😅
Like your work. IMO, consider flipping over the bottom wooden crossover so that the “dressed up” side is towards the ground. I think that you will like the look. Either way, enjoy your build.
Great work! Love your channel and I certainly do love oak. But I'm wondering: how many horses will you need to pull that wagon? How was it pulled in ancient times if it was similarly heavy?
This is going really well Carl! Kudos to you! 🙂 I agree with all that suggest it's a good idea to drill into the ironwork and insert some grease nipples! And, if I might say, you're putting an awful lot of faith onto those saw-horsey things! But yes, it's going great! :-)
So nice! But are the wheels only limited inside by the beam itself? Driving around i could imagine that the beam soon will be woren out by the wheel...
Hard to know which influenced which first! Having said that I think the shepherds huts go back quite a bit earlier, but with much less bling. Did shepherds have wives I wonder?
Great video as usual. Could I just ask, what will stop the inside of your wheel centres from wearing the ends of your front timber axle and biting into the oak? I couldnt see any kind of spacers to keep them apart.
![[Limbus Company - Teaser] Season5 - Oblivion](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8anKuEeZLeI/mqdefault.jpg)
10:43 LPT: put a nut on the threaded rod *before* you cut it, then afterwards when you remove the nut, it will clean up the damaged threads.
That's a great tip thank you
Was thinking exactly that when I saw the grinder.
Yup. We do that all the time at work. Good call
and if you forget, invest in a thread file
Or a tap &. die set. @@blackdoublezero
Can you imagine building a Shepard's Hut as they have for hundreds of years with no power tools. Thanks for sharing Carl.
When they built wagons in the past, they would completely build them, then take them apart and paint (even in the bolt holes) then reassemble the wagon. They used regular paint then finished with boiled linseed oil to make it waterproof and shiny. The iron fittings can be finished by heating and coating with linseed oil. It will blacken and seal.
My brother, I love you. I love your clips. They make me feel safe. My wish is to be able to come to you and work with you❤❤❤
Highly recommend you to paint the axel. Since the u-bolts are stainless and in contact with the carbon steel axel, it will cause an acceleration of corrosion on the axel. Clean of the surface rust, degrease, etching primer and two coats of epoxy based coating. Also install the grease nipples, you will have to regrease the turntable at some point, it will be a pain without grease nipples.. chamfer the holes for the nipples on the inside to avoid burrs scratching the surface of the turntables.
Hi Carl, really impressed you could get down and pick up the wheels. I too suffer with Ankylosing Spondylitis and am buggered if I could get that low, mind you I'm 70 now. Alas the mind's willing but the flesh is weak. Take care of yourself pal. Regards Jim.
Carl, you need a washer between the wheel and the wooden beam on the axle. I suggest a 1/4" plate screwed the beam end, secured with countersunk wood screws. Please also consider the reaction between Steel and Oak .... maybe a piece of canvas between the axle and the beam and the nut plates and beams. IDK what to say about the drilled holes maybe a dielectic grease or Battery terminal grease.
Might already be mentioned but a similar design was brought to the Intermountain West of the US by the Basque sheepherders in the early days of settling there. They became known as "Sheep Camps" and are still in use today although somewhat modernized with farm implement carriages and insulated aluminum shells in some cases. Old ones with the canvas covers on a bowed ash frame can be found on private properties restored and used as guest sleeping quarters and I've spent quite a few peaceful nights in them over the years but never owned one. Love your attention to detail!
... some of the tradition mobile huts in Europe and USA are being displaced by "ThOWs" (Tiny House on Wheels). This may be good or not.
Keeping traditions alive is important but so too is adapting them to suit current expectations of the minimum modicum of function and comfort.
One of the reseasons I celebrate this build if a "Shepards Hut" is new (old) ideas can be revisited that can inform current typologies, theories and practical applications.
As an Architect, I lament that few current students, practioners and academics reference not just past aesthetic but also past materials and construction techniques. Over my 45+ year career, I have always maintained that you cannot design (as an architect) and document non-standard buildings if you don't understand standard construction methods, standard materials and standard details; to push the boundaries, you first need to understand the assumed boundaries. Also, you need to be able to think in 3D. The Canadian architech, Frank Gehry, has all all this in spades, as did Jørn Utzon
Many times in my carrier I have questioned the accepted wisdom; "Why do we do this this way?". To which I invariably got the response, "But everyone does it that way!". To which I'd ask "But why?". Nearly 100% of replies (or variants) were, "because everyone else does it this way, it must be cheaper /quicker /more efficent" ~ idiots using lame excuses to justify their laziness and poor time /cost management and lack of vision.
An exemplar ofthinking beyond the "accepted way buildings are designed, detailed, skinned and built" is the Canadian architect, Frank Gehry, though he is in the shadows of Jørn Utzon, who conceptualised, designed and documenter the SOH in the days before 2D & 3D CAD.
Those who revisit past technologies and ideas are so important in modern architecture, design, engineering, product manufacture, etc, but most practitioners in these space have forgotten that the celebrated pinnacle we have currently assended owes it's significance to what has gone before... and that we still have more to learn from how our forebares did things (and why).
Apologies for the rant, but apparently it was something I needed to express.
Hey Roger! Great job! As a cabinet maker and furniture restorer I would recommend you to treat the wood with something where it is i contact with iron. The oak tanins will corrode the iron and rust quickly. The best solution is to have contact peaces and bushings in nylon or brass to avoid this. Kind regards from Stockholm
Congratulations, I enjoy so much viewing your videos, is a pleasure ear the sounds of your work without music.
They certainly will outlast all of us, that is a statement that you won't hear very often these days.
Building things to last because you can and you are proud of your work/skills, not because you're only in it for the money.
This is a perfect example of what I mean to say; ruclips.net/video/RV7pmE4MC-I/видео.html
Great craftmanship as always! To make it perfect you might want to give the axle a thin rub with some Linseed oil varnish. It will react with the rust and turn it into an elastic & black rust protection coat.
(In the Middle Ages, linseed oil was used as an anti-corrosion agent for armour and weapons. However, the process has nothing to do with (moonshining). It was also used in vehicle construction in the past. Today, people are returning to this non-toxic type of preservation in classic car circles, in the preservation of historical monuments and in healthy building. The oil forms a water-insoluble compound with Fe3+ ions in the rust. In addition, the oil forms a crack-free coating after setting)
The amount of skill and knowledge that you have is amazing to watch in your videos.
Have to say its coming together beautifully ,its a pleasure to watch as always.
Love your work mate.
Excellent squat technique at 13:30 👊🏻
I thought so too! Only improvement would be to exhale on the way up. Not a good idea to hold your breath while lifting. Brilliant build and video. It's wonderful to watch someone with such great skills and interest in doing things the correct way! I know nothing about carpentry/wood working, but you make it look like a pleasurable challenge.
I have enjoy every aspect of you projects, you are a accomplished, carpenter, designer and craftsman, you will go far. Your voice is so soothing and mesmerizing and your hands wonderful to watch, besides your a +
for eye candy. Hope your range rover is feeling well after its surgery and will see you through many more miles of creativity. Here's tons of hugs and lots of my love. No more bloody fingers please. Afriend.
Enjoy your work very much ,Carl. Also your videos. I live in WISCONSIN, USA.
Facinating Carl. A pleasure to watch your detailed 'how to'...not that I am ever going to need a swanky turn table of such magnitude. 😂🎉 Well done m'dear.
Fine work there Carl! This is a nice build project and a treat for your viewers. Stay Safe!!! Cheers!!!
I think it's simply incredible an amazing craftsmanship
Hi Carl, great series. Can I suggest you dress the unfinished steel parts (Axle, King Pin etc) with Lanolin. It will prevent rust and lubricate and would have been what was originally applied those parts. It is all natural and highly effective.
You will need a double washer between the wheel and the axle beam to prevent eating up the wood. 2 washers reduce inner washer spinning. And, the outer nut should be a castle nut with a cotter pin (you can cut your nut into one) going through the axle. The one you used can still work it's way off. Dremel cut a 1 complete revolution spiral in the axle to accept some grease with putting grease fittings on the wheels, so you don't eat up the metal while scaring off the neighbors from the squealing.
Thanks for another good video. My old back squirmed a bit when you lifted up the wheels though. Youth has its advantages. 😀 I look forward to the next video.
Really looking forward to the next one Carl - this is an excellent project
How we all wish we have some barn in France to play around and have coffee & croissant.
bro your a craftsman , that was perfection on that axle
Despite your young age, I am full of admiration for your skills !
Brilliant as usual. Greetings from Beijing and Hamburg.
Great episode, what an undertaking!!!
Love it.
I reckon you got that assembly off those two horses just in time, definitely past it maximum load limit
Best regards
"... but having now gone through the whole process of buiding it I'm sure it was the right decision. They look great and will certainly outlast all of us." EPIC!!! :o) Looking forward to the sequel!
It certainly will out last the rest of us, no doubt about it! Well done, Carl.
I'm probably not the only one to point out that drilling from both sides increases the precision of the drilled holes.
On peut dire que les tréteaux sont solides. Bon boulot . What a lovely work of art. Love your videos..
Looks great 👍🏽. Speaking from experience cut any metal away from the oak! Saves on clean up time of rust spots!!!!
Well done! I saw a trick for keeping a drill bit straight when drilling down without a drill press. Drill a 2” hole (or whatever, according to circumstances) in a piece of acrylic mirror and lay it down face up on the surface to be drilled. The centre of the hole in the mirror should be the mark for your hole. This way, if the reflection of your drill bit looks crooked in comparison to the actual drill bit, you can correct until they’re straight and aligned. Great innit?
Hi Carl loved your videos from the first. The beer crate is from Amstel Beer from Holland.
Another great video - as an amateur woodworker it’s a pleasure to watch a professional make it look easy :)
Interesting use of the green laser for the horizontal holes. Why not for the vertical holes for the u-bolts? interesting work area and effort.
Wonderful work. Thanks for taking us along.
Nice job. I have always buttered the drill for these jobs with beeswax; found it virtually stopped having a nasty bite which is always at the wrong time and place. Best wishes from the UK.
I would add a washer between the wheel and the oak on the main shaft just to keep it from digging into the wood, other than that fantastic video 😊
I shuddered and gasped and wondered "does he know something I don't? why no washer?"
a cast iron thrust washer
Superb effort and doubtless immensely satisfying.
Rodney. That's what I'd name the beer crate. Rodney The Beer Crate.
What a lovely work of art. Love your videos.
First prize goes to the maker of those flimsy-looking saw horses. Bet they never imagined them having to cope with a weight like that ☺
@carlrogers -- Beautiful job on this build - love your videos. While I"m in Salt Lake City now, I lived in Colomiers for a year cycling north and south of your beautiful region.
3:00 one advice, drill some 3cm from the bottom on the brackets side and then drill from the top but you need to use drill bit for metal. It will find the easiest path and it will drill to the brackets. Edit, oh you use this method later. This is how I drill holes for post frame building.
I think I will name the beer crate Stan. Because he’s great for standing on.
So far so good!
(absolutely bl....y brilliant!!!)
Its absolutely stunning!
Amstel Bier - Name of the beer. Cheers!
Hey dude you can buy gator blocks which are hardened steel blocks with all the drill sizes through them. You then clamp the block to work piece and drill through to keeps the bit square. You may have seen them before or even own them but thought I’d share.
If you can put in the grease nipples, my own experience of chicken sheds and shepherd huts dating from the late nineteenth and early twentieth century is that they spend huge amounts of time not moving in often damp conditions. they can and do cease or grate requiring huge effort by several strong blokes with long levers to move if at all, grease nipples in the turntable and wheels will make a world of difference. One more word of advice grease before moving and again once sited and stand wheels on paving slabs or similar.
Hi Carl, good news on the choice of cast iron for the turntable.... cast iron has self lubricating properties due to the high carbon/graphite content. If you decide to lubricate then go with a graphite based lubricant. Look it up.
well done Carl. it's always a pleasure to watch your vidéos. cheers
Now I definitely haven't watched till 6:28 so I'm going to take a gander that the beer crate is an old Amstel one.
Maybe you won't need grease zerks for the plates (i still would add them regardless - even if cast iron is self lubricating, it does get bound up when it gets cruddy and grease keeps the elements out of the plate) you will need them for the wheels. I'd cut small spirals in the shaft too, using a needle file to allow grease to circulate - you don't need them to be big, about a mm would be more than enough, just to let the grease reach all the contact area.
Thinking about flexing ability of the whole chasis on country roads. Most probably old wagons had more flex in joints because of fixing methods and lower accuracy. Here, You fix everything with 0,01mm tolerances and might be that wagon will ride on 3 wheels all the time. Love perfect woodworking skills, whole idea and patience, hate cheap threaded rod :( also should put washers between wheels hubs and oak. I have built a steel log trailer out of wooden wagon using it's axles, so I've kinda been there ;)
Lovely job Carl.
The video shot at the 1 minute 11 second mark was smooth. You captured your projects; barn, Land Rover and Shepards Hut.
Nicely done!
beer crate name - stepping stone
About Time!! Have been waiting for a new episode!
Amazing Carl, loving this series so far 😍. Can’t wait for more 😀
It is really great to watch your craftsmanship. It looks great. 😊👍👍
Didnt look like there was enough room for the socket on the pivot pin nut. But I am sure it must be the camera angle. Thanks for sharing. Charles
Keep up this great content mate. Really enjoying it 👍🏻
Makita should sponsor you, no lies.
It’s been great to watch your new project over the last month Carl and I don’t doubt that the finished axle will be the best of craftsmanship you can achieve and for the best researched of reasons. After half my life on this globe I’ve learned never to comment on a job halfway through and I’ve no doubt this will be as good as your roof(s) and your staircase. Keep it up fella, it'll last a thousand times longer than your visa unfortunately 😅
Graphite powder inside the kinpin shaft area would work quite well
That’s a Newcastle Brown crate … it’s got to be 👌
Looking good!
Thank you my friend
Amstel beer crate! Greeting from Amsterdam.
good advert for those saw horses, theyre taking some weight there.
Beer case is Amstel bier. From the Netherlands. You should try: Hertog Jan. Much beter.
Like your work. IMO, consider flipping over the bottom wooden crossover so that the “dressed up” side is towards the ground. I think that you will like the look. Either way, enjoy your build.
love your work bro, keep on keeping on
Yes a new Video. Robert i Love your Videos.
Love to watch you work
2:52 good ol‘ Amstel
Great work! Love your channel and I certainly do love oak. But I'm wondering: how many horses will you need to pull that wagon? How was it pulled in ancient times if it was similarly heavy?
once you grease it up, it will spin better for sure. I've never even heard of such a vehicle prior to this video series.
Nice job!
Awesome, Carl.
Nice work 👏 👌 👍
Always use "galvanized" nuts, bolds etc not zinc plated. Zinc plating is only for very light duty, i.e. inside your home.
Name the beer crate? Boris. It looks like a Boris.
This is going really well Carl! Kudos to you! 🙂
I agree with all that suggest it's a good idea to drill into the ironwork and insert some grease nipples! And, if I might say, you're putting an awful lot of faith onto those saw-horsey things! But yes, it's going great! :-)
LOL "saw-horsey things" writ big = "Trojan Horse"
festool drill and parkside router
Are we going to have some more please.
So nice! But are the wheels only limited inside by the beam itself? Driving around i could imagine that the beam soon will be woren out by the wheel...
The beer crate is Amstel Bier.
Looks pretty amazing, so is a Shepherd's hut, like a Gypsy caravan ?
yes very similar!
Hard to know which influenced which first! Having said that I think the shepherds huts go back quite a bit earlier, but with much less bling. Did shepherds have wives I wonder?
Fantastic!
Make sure you use anti-seize on your stainless hardware
Great video as usual. Could I just ask, what will stop the inside of your wheel centres from wearing the ends of your front timber axle and biting into the oak? I couldnt see any kind of spacers to keep them apart.
Viewing joy 👌
Good Job 👍👍👍
@carlrogers Is there a reason you can't use the drill press for those holes? This is gonna' be a great series, thanks. Zert those wheels, bro!
I would still install grease zerks,. Grease hardens and deteriorates over time.