we bought a house that came with the kinetico mach 4040s od. It was leaking between two of the tanks (it has 4). I'm looking for info online as to whether I should try to repair/service or flat out replace it. I've never had a water softener before.
@@rob_trevino there are seals between the tanks. If that is the only problem, get it serviced, get a Kinetico service engineer to take a look. Where are you from?
@@TheWaterBoyuk I am in the east coast in the USA. I really don't know if that's the only problem. I also noticed there was a little drain tube that was constantly dripping. Since I don't know much about how these operate, I really don't know if it's normal or not. I am very handy with tools which is why I'm trying to learn from your videos. I also need to find a place that sells parts like gaskets and o-rings if need be.
Hi 👋Rob. Being in the 🇺🇸 makes sense now. The 4040 Mach overdrive is not a big market here in the UK but a huge market in the USA. Can any of my followers help Rob out?
@@TheWaterBoyuk Also, I will say that the leak from the tank was kind of sticky. This leads me to believe that there is more than meets the eye to the leak.
This video is fantastic and will allow me to confidently take a model 60 Head apart and clean it. The unit has not worked correctly in a while and the Kinetico person wanted to put a whole new unit in, but that seems extreme until the existing has been cleaned and serviced. Thanks
Thanks for your detailed video. I have a Kinetico MACH 2050S system and I see water inside the Water Softener valve below the transparent disk. Is this normal? i have just changed the resin and after restarting the system i have noticed the water inside the valve and i wonder if i made any mistake.
Nice video. Issue I have is the disc doesn't rotate on it own when it goes to regeneration cycle. I cleaned level1 and 2 but it didn't solve the problem. However in level 1, I observed that the lowest disc (Ceramic one) with holes in S shape are not all clear ie. I cannot see through them. Only 6 holes are open. I tried to remove debris with a wire but it didn't help. It felt like some solid surface there and no debris. Are these all holes supposed to be clear (can see through) at same time? I also tried putting all discs back and tried rotating gears from behind, all gears move properly but I don't see plates moving on level1.
I'm having the issue of my unit constantly flowing out the drain tube, and it uses up the salt very quickly. Any suggestions? Thank you for your videos and for the suggestions.
After regeneration starts the meter stops turning and water continues to run for hours while the meter position indicator does not move. I can use the screw to move it manually but it doesn't complete the cycle without help.
My problem exactly, I'd love to know the cause. I've stripped and rebuilt but couldn't see what the problem was, probably because I don't know what I'm looking for.
WHERE do you get parts for these units? I have 3 that I have acquired and am going to start tearing them down but I first looked on eBay and didn't see much there...
Great video, thanks so much for sharing. I've stripped mine down and put it back together again. Hopefully that will fix it - its not progressing through the stages for some reason. Seems to get stuck. There was no debris and the teeth are fine, fingers crossed this sorts the issue
@@TheWaterBoyuk Thanks! Everything seemed to move freely when I took it apart, but will focus on the pawls if it hasn't rotated over the next day or two. After watching your videos I'm much more confident taking this all apart now. Have you found any particular reason why the pawls get stuck (e.g. debris, burs, worn down areas, spring fatigue etc)?
I have a Kinetico 2060 series number 3 disk. My water is salty so it's bypassed for now. Any suggestion on what might be the issue? Tank and float is fine, no salt bridge and drain line and suction line work. i did a manual regenerate. When you do a manual Regenerate should you let it complete the cycle or is it all right to fast forward it from Brine/Rinse to Backwash ?
I have a brand new 2060s. Yesterday the Technician changed from disc 2 to disc 3 and this morning under the valve cap there is a lot of condensation it seems and I can't see the indicator dot on the valve top. Would this indicate a micro air leak from the cap maybe? I see no leaks.
That goes in the BRINE WELL. That is the small (approximately 4") vertical tube located in the salt tank. Add resin cleaner and then start a regeneration cycle by rotating the control disc clockwise with a Phillips screwdriver until you hear it start regenerating. Let it completely regenerate on its own and you're done!
Thank you for the excellent video. You mentioned that the older models can grow algae due to sunlight exposure. I assume this needs to be cleaned out. Is there a recommend process for this? Is it simply a level 1 issue, or do all the valve levels need to be cleaned? Any best practices moving forward to prevent regrowth?
I have a Model 100, 10" x 54" vessel...the meter disc is number 1, so 1700 gal per regen. the literature says 4 salt settings: 5.5lbs(L), 7.5lbs(N), 10lbs(P), 15lbs(R). How do I set for 10lbs/per regen? My hardness is 32gr/gallon, so 10lbs would be good for 1500gals.
keep it on the 6 to be on the safe side. It is quite an old softener. If you find that you aren't getting soft water, I would definitely look at the seals in the mid levels, and also the resin in vessels.
The control disc determines when the valve goes into a regeneration. Yours will a low number because you have a large capacity. In the UK the capacity is low because the tanks have less than 5 liters per tank. The average disc is 5 or 6
What makes the meter go around. I used to be able to start the regeneration by pushing down with a Phillips head screw driver and turning it a fraction of an inch clockwise. Then the unit went through its cycle and stopped when it was done (and soft water was available continuously) Now it no longer moves around on its own, so I have been moving it through each cycle and leaving it for 15 or 20 minutes for brine and the same for backwash. Then I turn it to the space where soft waer is available. What causes this to get "stuck" and not go on its own?
Inside the level 1 there are 2 sets of gears. 1 set is for the regen. You can check that gears are moving without taking the level apart. On the side of the control disc there are some pawls which click into the teeth of the disc. At the pivot of the pawl is a cam which spins around. You may need a magnifying glass to help. Check that first 👍
Hello New Mexico! Try your local Kinetico dealer, I know that they are a bit reluctant to sell spares in the USA to the end user. If you have no joy, drop me a email and I will see what I can do 😉
At 1:03 when he started talking about the 3 black nozzles, where do these go on the level one? Do these nozzles need to be cleaned to keep any flow of air or water from being blocked? If anyone could help, I'd appreciate.
If you turn the level 1 over, you will be able to see a orange gasket. In one section of the gasket there is a gap, and in that gap is the nozzle. I have not known one to get blocked, but it is possible. The nozzle can be removed and blew through to clear.
@ 6:35-650 You had issues with putting that top paw back in and it’s cause you put the number disc on first then the paw and that’s not right. You need to put all paws first then the #disc
I need to replace my lense, other than watch for the spring, is there anything else that I have to do before I pull the screws out? Is that part of the unit under pressure when in use, and if so how do I release the pressure before I pull the lense out?
![Kinetico Breakdown And Rebuild [Kinetico Water Softener]](/img/1.gif)
Anyone tried this breakdown yet? Pop your comments below.
we bought a house that came with the kinetico mach 4040s od. It was leaking between two of the tanks (it has 4). I'm looking for info online as to whether I should try to repair/service or flat out replace it. I've never had a water softener before.
@@rob_trevino there are seals between the tanks. If that is the only problem, get it serviced, get a Kinetico service engineer to take a look. Where are you from?
@@TheWaterBoyuk I am in the east coast in the USA. I really don't know if that's the only problem. I also noticed there was a little drain tube that was constantly dripping. Since I don't know much about how these operate, I really don't know if it's normal or not. I am very handy with tools which is why I'm trying to learn from your videos. I also need to find a place that sells parts like gaskets and o-rings if need be.
Hi 👋Rob. Being in the 🇺🇸 makes sense now. The 4040 Mach overdrive is not a big market here in the UK but a huge market in the USA.
Can any of my followers help Rob out?
@@TheWaterBoyuk Also, I will say that the leak from the tank was kind of sticky. This leads me to believe that there is more than meets the eye to the leak.
This video is fantastic and will allow me to confidently take a model 60 Head apart and clean it. The unit has not worked correctly in a while and the Kinetico person wanted to put a whole new unit in, but that seems extreme until the existing has been cleaned and serviced. Thanks
Thanks for your detailed video. I have a Kinetico MACH 2050S system and I see water inside the Water Softener valve below the transparent disk. Is this normal? i have just changed the resin and after restarting the system i have noticed the water inside the valve and i wonder if i made any mistake.
Nice video. Issue I have is the disc doesn't rotate on it own when it goes to regeneration cycle. I cleaned level1 and 2 but it didn't solve the problem. However in level 1, I observed that the lowest disc (Ceramic one) with holes in S shape are not all clear ie. I cannot see through them. Only 6 holes are open. I tried to remove debris with a wire but it didn't help. It felt like some solid surface there and no debris. Are these all holes supposed to be clear (can see through) at same time? I also tried putting all discs back and tried rotating gears from behind, all gears move properly but I don't see plates moving on level1.
You cannot see through all holes because they are not straight, but if you apply compressed air, you should have air through all holes.
I'm having the issue of my unit constantly flowing out the drain tube, and it uses up the salt very quickly. Any suggestions? Thank you for your videos and for the suggestions.
Could be many reasons. I have a diagnosis video in edit, so keep your 👀 peeled. Hit the 🔔 and it will notify you when it goes live. 👍
Multumesc pentru video. Eu am un model 2060 s si are discul cu numarul 4 ce inseamna asta e bun sau e de rau? Multumesc
After regeneration starts the meter stops turning and water continues to run for hours while the meter position indicator does not move. I can use the screw to move it manually but it doesn't complete the cycle without help.
My problem exactly, I'd love to know the cause. I've stripped and rebuilt but couldn't see what the problem was, probably because I don't know what I'm looking for.
WHERE do you get parts for these units? I have 3 that I have acquired and am going to start tearing them down but I first looked on eBay and didn't see much there...
How easy is it to get the whole unit out of the actual casing.
Great detail - how can i get a new piece that causes regeneration (under the screw, the black dot piece broke off) for a model 50?
Thanks in advance!
Contact your local kinetico dealer. Where are you?
Great video, thanks so much for sharing.
I've stripped mine down and put it back together again.
Hopefully that will fix it - its not progressing through the stages for some reason. Seems to get stuck.
There was no debris and the teeth are fine, fingers crossed this sorts the issue
Check the white pawls in the lense on the top of the level 1. They should move in and out of the teeth and prevent the disc going standing still.
Check the white pawls in the lense on the top of the level 1. They should move in and out of the teeth and prevent the disc going standing still.
@@TheWaterBoyuk Thanks!
Everything seemed to move freely when I took it apart, but will focus on the pawls if it hasn't rotated over the next day or two. After watching your videos I'm much more confident taking this all apart now.
Have you found any particular reason why the pawls get stuck (e.g. debris, burs, worn down areas, spring fatigue etc)?
@metalfuryskulls the springs which activate them fail or come out of the slot so they are unable to put the intended pressure on them.
@@TheWaterBoyuk ah thanks - they seemed okay, but it's good to have something to focus on if it's still not working 🤞
I have a Kinetico 2060 series number 3 disk. My water is salty so it's bypassed for now. Any suggestion on what might be the issue? Tank and float is fine, no salt bridge and drain line and suction line work. i did a manual regenerate. When you do a manual Regenerate should you let it complete the cycle or is it all right to fast forward it from Brine/Rinse to Backwash ?
I have a brand new 2060s. Yesterday the Technician changed from disc 2 to disc 3 and this morning under the valve cap there is a lot of condensation it seems and I can't see the indicator dot on the valve top. Would this indicate a micro air leak from the cap maybe? I see no leaks.
Sounds normal to me. 👍
Where is the resin cleaner added during the maintenance? Directly on the salt or there is a special compartment? thank you
That goes in the BRINE WELL. That is the small (approximately 4") vertical tube located in the salt tank. Add resin cleaner and then start a regeneration cycle by rotating the control disc clockwise with a Phillips screwdriver until you hear it start regenerating. Let it completely regenerate on its own and you're done!
do you have close up of white paws?
What is the "little bit with the indent" called? Mine seems to have eroded. Looking forward to your response. Your videos are So helpful!
What time in the video please?
@@TheWaterBoyuk 3 minutes, 30 seconds in. Thank you
@@sarahpauline it is the activator for the regeneration. They are made of plastic and the cross head does burr easy!
@@TheWaterBoyuk Thank You So Much Sir!
Thank you for the excellent video.
You mentioned that the older models can grow algae due to sunlight exposure. I assume this needs to be cleaned out. Is there a recommend process for this? Is it simply a level 1 issue, or do all the valve levels need to be cleaned?
Any best practices moving forward to prevent regrowth?
change the clear screen for a smoked screen on the top of level 1. Any growth will be on the inside on the screen. Give it a wipe. 👍
I have a Model 100, 10" x 54" vessel...the meter disc is number 1, so 1700 gal per regen. the literature says 4 salt settings: 5.5lbs(L), 7.5lbs(N), 10lbs(P), 15lbs(R). How do I set for 10lbs/per regen? My hardness is 32gr/gallon, so 10lbs would be good for 1500gals.
The jets? Your're showing them, but no mention on the strip down?
How do I know what disc no I should be using? My unit came from a friends house so wasn't set up for my area. I'm in North Essex. CO7 8LA
which model HE or HF and which disc do you have?
@@TheWaterBoyuk That's a good question - I'm not sure how to tell. It's serial No is 68779, it has the clear (non smoked) top. It's using Disc 6.
keep it on the 6 to be on the safe side. It is quite an old softener. If you find that you aren't getting soft water, I would definitely look at the seals in the mid levels, and also the resin in vessels.
What does the number represent? Mine has a 2
The control disc determines when the valve goes into a regeneration. Yours will a low number because you have a large capacity. In the UK the capacity is low because the tanks have less than 5 liters per tank. The average disc is 5 or 6
What makes the meter go around. I used to be able to start the regeneration by pushing down with a Phillips head screw driver and turning it a fraction of an inch clockwise. Then the unit went through its cycle and stopped when it was done (and soft water was available continuously) Now it no longer moves around on its own, so I have been moving it through each cycle and leaving it for 15 or 20 minutes for brine and the same for backwash. Then I turn it to the space where soft waer is available.
What causes this to get "stuck" and not go on its own?
Inside the level 1 there are 2 sets of gears. 1 set is for the regen. You can check that gears are moving without taking the level apart. On the side of the control disc there are some pawls which click into the teeth of the disc. At the pivot of the pawl is a cam which spins around. You may need a magnifying glass to help. Check that first 👍
My smoked screen is cracked causing the unit to leak. Where would I purchase a new one?
Speak to your local Kinetico dealer. Where are you located?
@@TheWaterBoyuk in New Mexico USA
Hello New Mexico! Try your local Kinetico dealer, I know that they are a bit reluctant to sell spares in the USA to the end user. If you have no joy, drop me a email and I will see what I can do 😉
where i can oder those parts
At 1:03 when he started talking about the 3 black nozzles, where do these go on the level one? Do these nozzles need to be cleaned to keep any flow of air or water from being blocked? If anyone could help, I'd appreciate.
If you turn the level 1 over, you will be able to see a orange gasket. In one section of the gasket there is a gap, and in that gap is the nozzle. I have not known one to get blocked, but it is possible. The nozzle can be removed and blew through to clear.
@ 6:35-650
You had issues with putting that top paw back in and it’s cause you put the number disc on first then the paw and that’s not right. You need to put all paws first then the #disc
I thought mine was brown just because of all the rust in the water!
I need to replace my lense, other than watch for the spring, is there anything else that I have to do before I pull the screws out? Is that part of the unit under pressure when in use, and if so how do I release the pressure before I pull the lense out?