Maybe you can send him some Barbie's? Unless he has a daughter idk why he'd have one so maybe you have Barbie's, not sure why? My daughter had Barbie's and the hair is like nylon strands so it's like it has hair spray in it all the time 😂, so not even sure if it was stupid loud it would work like normal hair. Maybe he can clip a spot off his gf's while she's sleeping and tape it to the door opening 🤣
really enjoying the series, I think once you end it and pick a winner it would be interesting if you build the full size version and test it, to see how accurately it scales up.
Great idea. Impedance curves and tuning frequency should be easy to compare. Performance/output levels are much harder though because, even though scaling of driver size is simple, none of the electrical and mechanical properties would be comparable. There’s no 12” version of the 2” driver being used as the test driver. It’d still be a very interesting experiment, but the factor of 6 scalability can’t really be compared. This whole series is still a brilliant idea though and an excellent way to compare enclosure designs in an economically manageable and communal way.
Sweet! Thanks for the test! As someone already mentioned, this was never a window breaker box but they sounded pretty good. Thanks for sharing the story too. I’m laid up, recovering from cancer surgery at the moment, and I am all smiles right now! 🎉
@@nnperformance76 a 6th order in bandpass would have a ported chamber for the front wave of the driver and a ported chamber for the rear wave. This ABC uses multiple ported chambers with the rear wave only.
I remember these abc boxes, they weren't crazy loud but seemed more for sound quality and hitting lower notes that not even a large sealed enclosure could hit the abc would hit it and amplify it. Very cool piece of enclosure history.
@@gianniskousidis4614 well the subs must have sucked then cause it took up the same space as 2 12 s but wasn't as loud so it might have been more efficient asfar as making the most bang on limited amplification...
@@Sneakdisscommentbelow abc is hard to calculate ... right box can go stupid loud but not so clean .. sacrifices must done... Very bad design used here no doubt about , you can hear distortion on vents + unwanted resonant on walls lead to Harmonic distortion & cancelation ... that literally destroy output !
@@gianniskousidis4614 right a real abc enclosure seems to only hit like 2 notes loud for example 25hz and 50hzish, I totally forgot about that but when you said sacrifice I immediately remembered lol
In high school back in 2004 I rode with a fellow classmate and he had a lowered s10 ext cab. He completely enclosed the entire cab, as an ABC box, with a single Earthquake 15" subwoofer. And the 5minute ride home when I finally left his truck my ears felt like they were bleeding.
Awesome episode! I just finished the prototype for my 8th order design that I'll be submitting very soon and got to test it out a bit. It's very promising. I just have a few things I want to add to make it easier to assemble for you and make it a bit stronger. Just waiting to hear back from you on a question I emailed into the submission email before I finalize the design.
Also, do you have machine screws like m3x8mm countersunk head screws if I were to incorporate a few into the design? And do we get bonus points if it plays an even wider bandwidth? lol
I have a small 8th order box at home: an older Bose Acoustimass 5 module. It’s an interesting design, with the port from one chamber going straight through another chamber to the front. Not great for it’s original use, but certainly sounds good when plugged into the plate map from my Klipsch home theater sub! I can’t help but wonder, could that design be sized to fit a 12 inch driver, and modified to sound good with that driver? I have similar thoughts about some of the crazy bandpass horn designs some pro audio dual 18” subs use, and I wonder if those could be cut in half, and modified in terms of size and tuning to suit a 12?
I had started designing an ABC for you on episode 1 but haven't found time. I am glad someone submitted one, and by the logo I can't help but wonder if it was The Dukk from the old Termpro car audio forum??? That's where myself and many others learned of them. Used to design them for my little cousin and he loved them. RIP Chris, this one's for you cuz.
I absolutely love this series, and this was a very interesting design for sure! If I knew how to use CAD software, I would draw a scaled down W-bin based off my IRL ones. They are not meant for car audio but I'd still love to see one tested in such a scenario, I also think it would work well with the driver since they have a sealed chamber. (You can make it ported too, but mine are sealed pressure chambers). I've noticed during testing of my IRL ones that the cones are constantly loaded between 40 and 150 Hz, it would be extremely interesting to see how the impedance curves and such look on them, they are harsh on amplifiers (amplifiers start running extremely hot), so I think they have little to no impedance rise, or possible impedance dip! They are crazy efficient, a 20 watt per channel power amp driving two of them, one per channel, is enough for a LOUD bass covering a large area. They don't play super deep obviously being a horn loaded design, but 40hz and up is intense and really that's good enough for outdoor music applications, as it is generally quite hard to reproduce 30hz and down well outdoors (with any decent loudness, I mean) Unfortunately I can barely draw a line in CAD. I could draw on paper but then Sam would have to manually redraw it and I just don't think he'd enjoy doing that 😂
@@fedgenoPeavey FH-1 are kick bins, not bass bins I would say. They are meant to be used together with subwoofers. I have a pair of folded horns built after the 1850 design, true sub-bass horns, or as much sub bass as a horn can do :P they go down to around 40 actually, they are quite lovely indeed! I am using Eminence Kappa Pro 15LFA drivers in them, a very tight squeeze indeed :P Had to rebuild the pressure chambers on them, was quite the job! But the end result was worth it. I am fascinated by high efficiency speakers so I use them in my music room just because I can C:
So, my old system, I used the vehicle size, shape and design to create a 7th order horn design, but it was actually a down firing ported box in a 86' Ford Escort hatchback. I believe the box was tuned best with the box about 4" from the floor. I tried various heights and designs, multiple subs, months and months of trial and error, but a single box with two 3 cube sides with two 3" ports each side and if I remember 4" long, maybe 6" long each. I don't remember exactly how far from the back but I think ot was 8". The box was the exact width of the vehicle and shape against the back seat.
ABC designs were pretty decent for the older low-Xmax subwoofer drivers. For modern subwoofer drivers, they're not really required. The testing suggests that the "winning" box is going to be one that has two or more resonance points, one at scaled 25 Hz and the other at scaled 60 Hz. 6th order bandpass anyone? :-)
So far in my testing 8th order is working well. Its keeping the cone very controlled at each frequency. For music not so great but not what im going for. Did another experiment with an 8th and a 6th and I almost dont believe the measured response when i ran a sweep on it.
For sure. The problem these days is woofers want small boxes and huge vent area. That’s a problem for this design. Still, it was a total blast modelling and designing it for this series!
Haha I just commented about this box on your last vid. From my understanding of ABC enclosures they are more of a flat response than pure spl burp enclosure. Be interesting to play around with port tuning of all 3 ports to see if you could increase spl scores.
I would do a slight variation on that ABC Box with both port sections ending next to each other. I've had issues with certain frequencies with ports separated on either side like that due to frequency wavelengths. I'd like to hear one with the variation I stated above.
I love this series. You put a ton of thought and hard work into it. Greatly Appreciated. One thing I would like to see is a "Max Score" .... (Maximum power at Xmax and Coil thermal max) Some of the designs can take far more power, and would score higher without unloading the sub. After all, a good design should control the cone so you can throw that extra power at it.
@@barevids Sure I get why you set your parameters as such. But 15w at Xmax vs 15w controlled cone at tuning, that properly tuned enclosure will take more power. The limiting factor now would be the coils thermal capabilities, no? I'm far from a subwoofer expert. But I can smash my subs when with in tuning of box. But when playing outside of tuning, impedance rises and they heat up a lot quicker (as you lose the efficiency of port and work the sub harder)? Some of the box designs are better tuned and should take more power then others as long as they don't overheat. I dont think I ever used rms as anything but a starting point, lol. Xmax and thermal limits (stretch and smell test....hahahah). As long as your within xmax, no smell and clean power... turn it up. If it starts to stink.... tune it down.... There's you max. Ive actually have only blown 1sub out of about 30, using this very scientific and well researched technique.
@@johnd5542 its not 15w at xmax, it's just 15w clamped to the coil, regardless of excursion, any more than that for more than a few seconds will overheat the coil
@@barevids So 15w when the coil is barely moving and 15w when the coil is close to jumping in and out of the gap, has the same thermal load on the coil?
I have one, but it would be hard with your current setup. I set a record that still holds 25yrs later. Super simple, yet built with months of physics and music teachers and engineers all worked together to set a record with 2 12" MTX blue coned Blue Thunders on a Sherwood 400w Amplifier running 200w to each sub and a 50x2 PPI Artwork amp for the mids and highs with a Clarion crossover, Clarion pullout CD player. And I tied for SQ against a $12,000 system with an uncomparable amout of power all Black Gold speakers, subs and 5 MTX amps
Did you calibrate to desired power at each freq or did you move around the impedance curve and get different power with same amplifier voltage? Just checking as your wording made it would like you set the dial and left it for all the burps?
Great content man huge fan I've watched pretty much all your videos and I had a question about an amp I just bought. I got it in the mail and it was damaged, it's a mono amplifier and the output speaker terminals were bent so I opened up the amplifier and the leads for the speaker outlets that are connected to the board were broken. What's the easiest way to reconnect them? Soldering or would a certain glue work? I'm trying not to send it back to the company if it is something I could possibly fix
You will need very powerful soldering iron and some thick copper wire. Remove the side plate of the amp so the terminal comes off. Snap off a bit more of the terminal so there is a decent gap between the board and the terminal metal. Remove all solder and remaining tabs from the holes in the main board. Solder wire into the holes the terminal went into. Now solder the wires to each terminal block and reassemble. Your iron will need to be at least 80w, wedge tip and you need patience and good 60 40 solder.
You should build one of those based on the Down4sound (profab) v3. I had a custom box that I broke and replaced it with the v3 and omg it’s a great box.
Korbon Trading was the distributor of Rockford in Canada. Megahertz was the brand name of the boxes which was also sold by Korbon and Mike Pezdirz was the rep for a while and was/ is an awesome no nonsense kind of guy. He started “hogtunes” years ago outfitting Harley Davidsons with better more cost effective audio solutions and the company has grown ever since.
I’ll also add that these boxes ripped and worked well with he and he2 Rockford woofers. Since bandpass boxes weren’t really catering to the high excursion woofers at the time.
Oh yeah! Pez was my rep back then and he marketed these in both a hatchback and a truck box. When I emailed in this design I gave both him and Garry Springgay full props for exposing this design to me.
@@BaddDukk I still have an 8” box to this day that I built using their design with a gto804 and it rips in hatchbacks. Did 136.4db @ 440watts dragster da1402 (unclamped so likely less power) back in the day on the new db measurement system. Pez was the guy that broke the barriers and I never got to see half the cool shit that he did. But him and I had some pretty stimulating conversations.
@@atticchopshop8180 it's still ununfortunate. He knows a ton... has all the specs of the driver and cabin. Also tons of experience with 3d designing. Must know something we don't...podcast ??
Unlikely, as a PR is just a port with physically limited displacement. The only time it is useful is when space is constraint or when you are trying to extract very low frequencies from tiny drivers, none of which apply here or in the scaled up setups
@@barevids of course, and yes i can see where it wouldnt really fit with the direction of these experiments. However i think it could be an interesting project as many of them allow the variable mass to "tune" them and your dats measurement tool could give awesome comparisons. Maybe a future project for sure! I will be building my golf car soundbar to likely include pr's so perhaps ill make an effort to add that project to my playlists!
@Chris Provazek the juice isn't worth the squeeze. If u have available space. Simular to iso bareic Inclosures. Depending on required output... more cost... only gain in smaller box..
@@nnperformance76 i feel ya there, however in alot of cases i feel there may be something to be said about having ported enclosure benefits and not have to worry about openings for environment to enter (for example waterproof enclosures to resist the elements) thats mainly the cases ive been toying with pr. I built a bluetooth speaker from an ammo can that is for all intensive purposes weatherproof, self enclosed and have some good low end response due to using passive radiators.
@Chris Provazek Design and experiment. It's all fun. Share what u come up with... waterproof/resistance. Changes a ton of variables. Cone type, surround, box material. Interested in what you build. I like learning and having others challenge the normal ideas. It is fun...
Technically this is a variation on a DCR, or double chamber reflex box. As such this is not a new idea, I have a magazine article from the 60’s I can send you which outlines how they work and how to construct one. They are not practical for use in a vehicle, usually due to space constraints.
For sure. The original design actually called for both chambers to be sealed with a permeable wall in between IIRC. I tried to be careful not to claim I came up with this; I just blabbed it all over the internet in the late 90s
Not sure if box size could be kept appropriate with the lower tuning but, for the next season have you considered using a small subwoofer designed driver in the 2 to 3 inch range tuned true instead of scaled up?
Boxes would be much larger and with probably irrelevant results considering not many people try to achieve 25Hz with 3" drivers lol output would be too little
Since volume is the most important factor in a car sub, can you do a general figure of merit formula to directly compare the practicality of these cabinets? FM = [( dB/✓f1ie 180)+(dB/✓f2)+(dB/✓f3)+(dB/✓f4)]/volume in dM cubed. 1 dM = 10 cM.
I'm covered in glue and saw dust Mr. Barevids! You were too slow lol. Now I see how it works before you, if you were to use my design! I used a more predictable configuration than the one I sent. I'm still very interested!
@@barevids I have two accounts, sorry, I'm also Robert Jefferson. I've finally built my 140db attempt box, double quarter wave, paraflex. Its the one in your email that has the very goofy high tuned resonator, and probably impossible to print horizontal baffle. It just barely fits in my Buick trunk
I absolutely forgot... I made a pair of boxes for some 90s cerwin vega 12s based on the golden ratio. They sounded really nice. Cabin volume absolutely had something to do with it, but I would recommend that as a first attempt to any noob. It slammed... then, I downloaded win isd. And I got real world frequency curves and stuff... I have literally never heard 900 watts so loud on a pair of 12s in a car. (PA speakers get louder, yes)... personal experience, someone else has very likely done better.
some of these boxes are quite large, how would a sealed box filled with as many woofers do in comparison? you could fit 4 woofers in the largest size i think.
@@atticchopshop8180 Same size? As I remember you would model the box for a large ported enclosure basically the largest that your sub can handle safely with 2 ports with each individually being large enough to work without chuffing. Then split it keeping a port on each side and with one side being exactly twice as large as the other. Then you take a port the exact same size as the other 2 and place it in the wall between each side making sure to keep the overall size ratios correct. That was the original ABC design I remember. But then i found older books where people did similar and werent too worried about ratios and did similar with more ports and chambers of varying size. Sam covered the effect very well by closing different ports as it played. different notes.
@@djijspeakerguy4628 unless you make a 6th order bass reflex then you have this box without the port in the chamber room I have this kind of enclosure in my home for a dd506d2 sub and it works fine
are there dynamic boxes that you open and close ports for frequencies? I know nothing about this - its just the hand over the port thing made me think you could tune a box with moving baffles that change the box in nanoseconds...
Once you’ve determined the winner of this series stick a Barbie doll in the cabin and go for a scale “hair trick” 🤣
then after that, should build a wall with 4 drivers...
@@bdc211 I think you just inspired my next pointless shelf decoration project.
Maybe you can send him some Barbie's? Unless he has a daughter idk why he'd have one so maybe you have Barbie's, not sure why? My daughter had Barbie's and the hair is like nylon strands so it's like it has hair spray in it all the time 😂, so not even sure if it was stupid loud it would work like normal hair. Maybe he can clip a spot off his gf's while she's sleeping and tape it to the door opening 🤣
@@Sneakdisscommentbelow as a matter of fact I do have a Ken and Barbie doll.
ruclips.net/video/_9atvr6d9Xw/видео.html
really enjoying the series, I think once you end it and pick a winner it would be interesting if you build the full size version and test it, to see how accurately it scales up.
Great idea. Impedance curves and tuning frequency should be easy to compare. Performance/output levels are much harder though because, even though scaling of driver size is simple, none of the electrical and mechanical properties would be comparable. There’s no 12” version of the 2” driver being used as the test driver.
It’d still be a very interesting experiment, but the factor of 6 scalability can’t really be compared. This whole series is still a brilliant idea though and an excellent way to compare enclosure designs in an economically manageable and communal way.
Sweet! Thanks for the test! As someone already mentioned, this was never a window breaker box but they sounded pretty good.
Thanks for sharing the story too. I’m laid up, recovering from cancer surgery at the moment, and I am all smiles right now! 🎉
Neat design. Rest up and look forward to ur future designs.
Great episode. Makes you wonder how funky some 6th orders must be.
Also interested in a 6th order. However 🤔 isn't a abc very similar to a 6th order? Explain please...
@@nnperformance76 a 6th order in bandpass would have a ported chamber for the front wave of the driver and a ported chamber for the rear wave. This ABC uses multiple ported chambers with the rear wave only.
@@BrandinDanesi excellent. Thanks for explaining 🙂
I remember these abc boxes, they weren't crazy loud but seemed more for sound quality and hitting lower notes that not even a large sealed enclosure could hit the abc would hit it and amplify it. Very cool piece of enclosure history.
ABC for efficiency.
@@gianniskousidis4614 well the subs must have sucked then cause it took up the same space as 2 12 s but wasn't as loud so it might have been more efficient asfar as making the most bang on limited amplification...
@@Sneakdisscommentbelow abc is hard to calculate ... right box can go stupid loud but not so clean .. sacrifices must done... Very bad design used here no doubt about , you can hear distortion on vents + unwanted resonant on walls lead to Harmonic distortion & cancelation ... that literally destroy output !
@@gianniskousidis4614 right a real abc enclosure seems to only hit like 2 notes loud for example 25hz and 50hzish, I totally forgot about that but when you said sacrifice I immediately remembered lol
@@Sneakdisscommentbelow wish he showed the full scale below 50.
In high school back in 2004 I rode with a fellow classmate and he had a lowered s10 ext cab. He completely enclosed the entire cab, as an ABC box, with a single Earthquake 15" subwoofer. And the 5minute ride home when I finally left his truck my ears felt like they were bleeding.
Awesome episode! I just finished the prototype for my 8th order design that I'll be submitting very soon and got to test it out a bit. It's very promising. I just have a few things I want to add to make it easier to assemble for you and make it a bit stronger. Just waiting to hear back from you on a question I emailed into the submission email before I finalize the design.
Also, do you have machine screws like m3x8mm countersunk head screws if I were to incorporate a few into the design? And do we get bonus points if it plays an even wider bandwidth? lol
I have a small 8th order box at home: an older Bose Acoustimass 5 module. It’s an interesting design, with the port from one chamber going straight through another chamber to the front. Not great for it’s original use, but certainly sounds good when plugged into the plate map from my Klipsch home theater sub! I can’t help but wonder, could that design be sized to fit a 12 inch driver, and modified to sound good with that driver?
I have similar thoughts about some of the crazy bandpass horn designs some pro audio dual 18” subs use, and I wonder if those could be cut in half, and modified in terms of size and tuning to suit a 12?
Oh, that is awesome! I was hoping someone would submit an 8th order box, I really want to see how it performs!
Been looking for this all day…got a long 11 hour shift so I need something to watch😁😁
❤i feel you if you are into cars Rob Dahm just dropped some content as well 13:26
Loving this series bro!
I had started designing an ABC for you on episode 1 but haven't found time. I am glad someone submitted one, and by the logo I can't help but wonder if it was The Dukk from the old Termpro car audio forum??? That's where myself and many others learned of them. Used to design them for my little cousin and he loved them. RIP Chris, this one's for you cuz.
Showing some love for the ABC!
Nice design...good job Paul. 👍question? Door closed on the benchmark areo was 135.15 how did the A.B.C. 134.95 beat it?
Best RUclips series ever!
Best Series on RUclips.
I absolutely love this series, and this was a very interesting design for sure!
If I knew how to use CAD software, I would draw a scaled down W-bin based off my IRL ones. They are not meant for car audio but I'd still love to see one tested in such a scenario, I also think it would work well with the driver since they have a sealed chamber. (You can make it ported too, but mine are sealed pressure chambers). I've noticed during testing of my IRL ones that the cones are constantly loaded between 40 and 150 Hz, it would be extremely interesting to see how the impedance curves and such look on them, they are harsh on amplifiers (amplifiers start running extremely hot), so I think they have little to no impedance rise, or possible impedance dip! They are crazy efficient, a 20 watt per channel power amp driving two of them, one per channel, is enough for a LOUD bass covering a large area. They don't play super deep obviously being a horn loaded design, but 40hz and up is intense and really that's good enough for outdoor music applications, as it is generally quite hard to reproduce 30hz and down well outdoors (with any decent loudness, I mean)
Unfortunately I can barely draw a line in CAD. I could draw on paper but then Sam would have to manually redraw it and I just don't think he'd enjoy doing that 😂
I got some Peavey FH-1s. They don't play below 60 😔
@@fedgenoPeavey FH-1 are kick bins, not bass bins I would say. They are meant to be used together with subwoofers. I have a pair of folded horns built after the 1850 design, true sub-bass horns, or as much sub bass as a horn can do :P they go down to around 40 actually, they are quite lovely indeed! I am using Eminence Kappa Pro 15LFA drivers in them, a very tight squeeze indeed :P Had to rebuild the pressure chambers on them, was quite the job! But the end result was worth it. I am fascinated by high efficiency speakers so I use them in my music room just because I can C:
So, my old system, I used the vehicle size, shape and design to create a 7th order horn design, but it was actually a down firing ported box in a 86' Ford Escort hatchback. I believe the box was tuned best with the box about 4" from the floor. I tried various heights and designs, multiple subs, months and months of trial and error, but a single box with two 3 cube sides with two 3" ports each side and if I remember 4" long, maybe 6" long each. I don't remember exactly how far from the back but I think ot was 8". The box was the exact width of the vehicle and shape against the back seat.
ABC designs were pretty decent for the older low-Xmax subwoofer drivers. For modern subwoofer drivers, they're not really required.
The testing suggests that the "winning" box is going to be one that has two or more resonance points, one at scaled 25 Hz and the other at scaled 60 Hz. 6th order bandpass anyone? :-)
So far in my testing 8th order is working well. Its keeping the cone very controlled at each frequency. For music not so great but not what im going for. Did another experiment with an 8th and a 6th and I almost dont believe the measured response when i ran a sweep on it.
There are a few different takes on an ABC box which would likely work well for this.
strange because it was guys using high xmax subs and getting high scores that got them popular.
For sure. The problem these days is woofers want small boxes and huge vent area. That’s a problem for this design. Still, it was a total blast modelling and designing it for this series!
Haha I just commented about this box on your last vid. From my understanding of ABC enclosures they are more of a flat response than pure spl burp enclosure. Be interesting to play around with port tuning of all 3 ports to see if you could increase spl scores.
I would do a slight variation on that ABC Box with both port sections ending next to each other.
I've had issues with certain frequencies with ports separated on either side like that due to frequency wavelengths.
I'd like to hear one with the variation I stated above.
I love this series. You put a ton of thought and hard work into it. Greatly Appreciated.
One thing I would like to see is a "Max Score" .... (Maximum power at Xmax and Coil thermal max)
Some of the designs can take far more power, and would score higher without unloading the sub.
After all, a good design should control the cone so you can throw that extra power at it.
Woofer is only 15wrms and will smoke with much more for too long! That's why I have the 15w limit 😁
@@barevids Sure I get why you set your parameters as such. But 15w at Xmax vs 15w controlled cone at tuning, that properly tuned enclosure will take more power. The limiting factor now would be the coils thermal capabilities, no?
I'm far from a subwoofer expert. But I can smash my subs when with in tuning of box. But when playing outside of tuning, impedance rises and they heat up a lot quicker (as you lose the efficiency of port and work the sub harder)?
Some of the box designs are better tuned and should take more power then others as long as they don't overheat.
I dont think I ever used rms as anything but a starting point, lol. Xmax and thermal limits (stretch and smell test....hahahah). As long as your within xmax, no smell and clean power... turn it up.
If it starts to stink.... tune it down....
There's you max.
Ive actually have only blown 1sub out of about 30, using this very scientific and well researched technique.
@@johnd5542 its not 15w at xmax, it's just 15w clamped to the coil, regardless of excursion, any more than that for more than a few seconds will overheat the coil
@@barevids So 15w when the coil is barely moving and 15w when the coil is close to jumping in and out of the gap, has the same thermal load on the coil?
I have one, but it would be hard with your current setup. I set a record that still holds 25yrs later. Super simple, yet built with months of physics and music teachers and engineers all worked together to set a record with 2 12" MTX blue coned Blue Thunders on a Sherwood 400w Amplifier running 200w to each sub and a 50x2 PPI Artwork amp for the mids and highs with a Clarion crossover, Clarion pullout CD player. And I tied for SQ against a $12,000 system with an uncomparable amout of power all Black Gold speakers, subs and 5 MTX amps
Yeah been waiting for this one!
DUKK!!!!
Welcome buddy!!!! Bumpin' Yota here!!!!!!
Did you calibrate to desired power at each freq or did you move around the impedance curve and get different power with same amplifier voltage? Just checking as your wording made it would like you set the dial and left it for all the burps?
No each frequency was calibrated at 15w separately as naturally the impedance is different for each.
Great content man huge fan I've watched pretty much all your videos and I had a question about an amp I just bought. I got it in the mail and it was damaged, it's a mono amplifier and the output speaker terminals were bent so I opened up the amplifier and the leads for the speaker outlets that are connected to the board were broken. What's the easiest way to reconnect them? Soldering or would a certain glue work? I'm trying not to send it back to the company if it is something I could possibly fix
You will need very powerful soldering iron and some thick copper wire. Remove the side plate of the amp so the terminal comes off. Snap off a bit more of the terminal so there is a decent gap between the board and the terminal metal. Remove all solder and remaining tabs from the holes in the main board. Solder wire into the holes the terminal went into. Now solder the wires to each terminal block and reassemble. Your iron will need to be at least 80w, wedge tip and you need patience and good 60 40 solder.
Man I really appreciate it and you take the time to respond at all and so quickly, you're the best and I can't say thank you enough
I'm enjoying the videos, and I like the logo on the box. 👌🏾
You should build one of those based on the Down4sound (profab) v3. I had a custom box that I broke and replaced it with the v3 and omg it’s a great box.
The profab is just a very strong ported box. And there's only 1 ported box left in the top 5
Were is episode 3 of the amp you modified I can't seem to find it
Korbon Trading was the distributor of Rockford in Canada. Megahertz was the brand name of the boxes which was also sold by Korbon and Mike Pezdirz was the rep for a while and was/ is an awesome no nonsense kind of guy. He started “hogtunes” years ago outfitting Harley Davidsons with better more cost effective audio solutions and the company has grown ever since.
I’ll also add that these boxes ripped and worked well with he and he2 Rockford woofers. Since bandpass boxes weren’t really catering to the high excursion woofers at the time.
Oh yeah! Pez was my rep back then and he marketed these in both a hatchback and a truck box. When I emailed in this design I gave both him and Garry Springgay full props for exposing this design to me.
@@BaddDukk I still have an 8” box to this day that I built using their design with a gto804 and it rips in hatchbacks. Did 136.4db @ 440watts dragster da1402 (unclamped so likely less power) back in the day on the new db measurement system. Pez was the guy that broke the barriers and I never got to see half the cool shit that he did. But him and I had some pretty stimulating conversations.
Alright its early friday here
It’s almost like a professional designed the enclosure!
Can you get in touch with hexibass? I would love to see their best attempt
I already asked him about it on his last podcast and the short version is that he said pass 🤷♂
@@atticchopshop8180 it is unfortunate... but he must have his reasons 🤔.
@@nnperformance76 He was saying how it's all done in software these days. I would have to re listen to it lol
@@atticchopshop8180 it's still ununfortunate. He knows a ton... has all the specs of the driver and cabin. Also tons of experience with 3d designing. Must know something we don't...podcast ??
@@nnperformance76 yeah pride
Great show bru nice one !
Another Bad Creation/ABC ... sweet
Cool video I'm interested in building one
I am loving these experiments, keep up the great work man. Is there a chance you plan on experimenting with passive radiator designs?
Unlikely, as a PR is just a port with physically limited displacement. The only time it is useful is when space is constraint or when you are trying to extract very low frequencies from tiny drivers, none of which apply here or in the scaled up setups
@@barevids of course, and yes i can see where it wouldnt really fit with the direction of these experiments. However i think it could be an interesting project as many of them allow the variable mass to "tune" them and your dats measurement tool could give awesome comparisons. Maybe a future project for sure! I will be building my golf car soundbar to likely include pr's so perhaps ill make an effort to add that project to my playlists!
@Chris Provazek the juice isn't worth the squeeze. If u have available space. Simular to iso bareic Inclosures. Depending on required output... more cost... only gain in smaller box..
@@nnperformance76 i feel ya there, however in alot of cases i feel there may be something to be said about having ported enclosure benefits and not have to worry about openings for environment to enter (for example waterproof enclosures to resist the elements) thats mainly the cases ive been toying with pr. I built a bluetooth speaker from an ammo can that is for all intensive purposes weatherproof, self enclosed and have some good low end response due to using passive radiators.
@Chris Provazek Design and experiment. It's all fun. Share what u come up with... waterproof/resistance. Changes a ton of variables. Cone type, surround, box material. Interested in what you build. I like learning and having others challenge the normal ideas. It is fun...
Cool design!
Technically this is a variation on a DCR, or double chamber reflex box. As such this is not a new idea, I have a magazine article from the 60’s I can send you which outlines how they work and how to construct one. They are not practical for use in a vehicle, usually due to space constraints.
For sure. The original design actually called for both chambers to be sealed with a permeable wall in between IIRC. I tried to be careful not to claim I came up with this; I just blabbed it all over the internet in the late 90s
Not sure if box size could be kept appropriate with the lower tuning but, for the next season have you considered using a small subwoofer designed driver in the 2 to 3 inch range tuned true instead of scaled up?
Boxes would be much larger and with probably irrelevant results considering not many people try to achieve 25Hz with 3" drivers lol output would be too little
Well done, you focused on open test more. I appreciate that, do bass test in open too. So that we can understand how it really sounds like outdoor.
Since volume is the most important factor in a car sub, can you do a general figure of merit formula to directly compare the practicality of these cabinets?
FM = [( dB/✓f1ie 180)+(dB/✓f2)+(dB/✓f3)+(dB/✓f4)]/volume in dM cubed.
1 dM = 10 cM.
Are you using the same driver for all your test on your boxes? After a lot of testers, the subwoofer gets broken in.
It was broken in before testing started ☺
How did it meter when facing the rear instead of facing up?
It was facing rear for db test as I measured that to be a bit louder 😎
I'm covered in glue and saw dust Mr. Barevids! You were too slow lol. Now I see how it works before you, if you were to use my design! I used a more predictable configuration than the one I sent. I'm still very interested!
Sorry, I'm a little lost with this comment, I don't understand 😂
@@barevids I have two accounts, sorry, I'm also Robert Jefferson. I've finally built my 140db attempt box, double quarter wave, paraflex. Its the one in your email that has the very goofy high tuned resonator, and probably impossible to print horizontal baffle. It just barely fits in my Buick trunk
@@greenbassboosts8872 righto! 😁 don't think I've got that far in generating gcodes yet!
I don't have the CAD skills but a scaled BFM Tuba 60 would be interesting, if it would fit in the test jig.
I've already submitted a Tuba design, slightly modified (rounded corners). I'm hoping he does it soon.
@barevids Hope you are OK, had me ready for next sunday vid but nothing yet.. god bless
Awful week sorry. Not been able to. Will try for Sunday.
@@barevids ok, thanks and sending you wishes for a better tomorrow.. thanks for what you do.
Amazing stufff
25 scale hertz Will using 25 drivers equal to 1 12"?
I would love for you to do the port block 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I absolutely forgot... I made a pair of boxes for some 90s cerwin vega 12s based on the golden ratio. They sounded really nice. Cabin volume absolutely had something to do with it, but I would recommend that as a first attempt to any noob. It slammed... then, I downloaded win isd. And I got real world frequency curves and stuff... I have literally never heard 900 watts so loud on a pair of 12s in a car. (PA speakers get louder, yes)... personal experience, someone else has very likely done better.
Interested how an 8th order would perform in this tests
Now I wonder how the box would perform on the meter if you blocked the ports at different frequencies
I need to find plans for a dual 10 wicked one
some of these boxes are quite large, how would a sealed box filled with as many woofers do in comparison? you could fit 4 woofers in the largest size i think.
I wonder when he’s going to post the next video? He was hoping to post 2 a week
Someone with a computer: summit a klipschorn to boom or bust
Mount the sub inside in the middle between the larger and smaller cavities.
The Q of the driver is on the high side for ported boxes
Subwoofer have to be smallest part, not that way. ABC is good but has some compression for max SPL
Where has Sam been? Is he OK?
Did he design this using the usual ratio rules?
I dont think so, both sides need to be the same side.
@@atticchopshop8180 Same size?
As I remember you would model the box for a large ported enclosure basically the largest that your sub can handle safely with 2 ports with each individually being large enough to work without chuffing. Then split it keeping a port on each side and with one side being exactly twice as large as the other. Then you take a port the exact same size as the other 2 and place it in the wall between each side making sure to keep the overall size ratios correct.
That was the original ABC design I remember. But then i found older books where people did similar and werent too worried about ratios and did similar with more ports and chambers of varying size. Sam covered the effect very well by closing different ports as it played. different notes.
People always do the ABC boxes the wrong way
Benchmark aero door open average was 135 this didn't beat it
Is that another way to say 6th order? It isn't?
6th order box would have the driver mounted between the two chambers, and no port between the two chambers.
@@djijspeakerguy4628 Will need to check both to see differences.
I'm not really sure what ABC is considered but I'd say 6th too yeah
@@djijspeakerguy4628 unless you make a 6th order bass reflex then you have this box without the port in the chamber room
I have this kind of enclosure in my home for a dd506d2 sub and it works fine
Horrible box to get working :D i've had one with two 10" subs, have few videos of it on my channel.
Can you not just build a scaled slot box for comparison sake?
Before I watch I'm guessing this box to take the lead on overall average
are there dynamic boxes that you open and close ports for frequencies? I know nothing about this - its just the hand over the port thing made me think you could tune a box with moving baffles that change the box in nanoseconds...