I love that at the end of this intricate and detailed project video… you turned a countertop grill into a countertop grill. But now with Ethernet and PID tuning!
@@Kalvinjj if this helps in any way: Once i PID tuned my ender via octoprint, the temps were unstable as hell. Went back to bang-bang and its just fine. Dont bother with PID.
Can we now discuss the amazing benefits of being able to run a print on one side of the bed while simultaneously grilling a sandwich on the other side? This takes 3d printing to an entirely new level.
This would work well for melting down prints into sheets of plastic to be used as a raw material for other things. Teaching Tech did a video on it, but used a t-shirt ironing press meant for vinyl shirt graphics. I can't wait to see where you are going with this.
I love a new "Moving portal" related project! Actually had a similar idea to the multiple portals one showed here. Only, my idea would have just 2 large "portals", each being an individual 3d printer with its own mainboard, but working on a single large(long) build plate. Essentially making it one giant IDEX. So far it's just an idea, but I'm really curious on how your concept develops since I think it has great potential, and will definitely be interesting to look at!
This is perfect, I wanted to mod my simple stand-alone oven for baking bread because the temperature knob is nightmare. Had a concept in my head, thanks for confimring that concept!
I figure a solution is to crimp the thermocouple in a ring terminal, and use the mica sheet and insulating washers for a TO-220 transistor isolating kit to decouple the washer, the mica is used because it conducts heat quickly, and survives high temperatures.
man I love watching you do your thing. you are living the dream making what ever you want and somehow making a living while doing it. it gives me motivation to keep making things.
Since you're putting a piece of glass on it, would it make sense to put a sheet or copper or aluminum between the plate and the glass to even out the hot spots? I'd imagine the thicker the metal the more even the heat but longer time to warm up
Loved the ending. Okay, I loved the whole video. Such exciting ideas with so much potential for printing those proper shoes. I can’t wait to see what's coming next!
The more videos this guy makes, the more it feels like I'm watching the Tony Stark of 3D printing vlog his experiments. And I love it. 9:37 - when you expect sparks but don't get any, and that's the GOOD outcome xD
Love it! I always get inspiration from your videos for my own projects, you have a very unique way of thinking and I'm excited to see where you take this!
Hell yea, those threaded inserts are so good! When I changed my garage door opener, I drilled holes in the thin steel plate on the door (it had a plate for bolting the motor onto), but I it was so thin there wouldnt be enough material for proper thread. Put a few of those inserts in, now it is rock solid, with plenty of thread for each bolt.
There are different Types of Temperature Sensor Configurations available. You can get them with a Metal Shell like the one that fits well but without a Galvanic Connection to it.
Oh my gosh. Didnt loughed so hard for a long time mate. Nice that you sinking about making a grillplate to a heated bed. 😂 Wish you a good time with youre new project. Youre german coast guard.
I heard a dutch accent at Formnext this year which I remembered from somewhere. 😅 Saw you talking to the guys at the Slice booth. You were busy planning new stuff so I didn’t want to disturb you. Awesome and refreshing video as always!
Hello there. I have an idea about why the thermocouple didn't work. It might be that when you grounded your heat plate you have inadvertently have grounded the sensor. That is to say, invert the connections on the sensor. I am not to sure how you have done your connections but my gut instinct points me at that being the cause.
As an Irish born Australian, it made me laugh when you took the piss out of yourself.😂😂😂 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀😂 Just as long as we are laughing, we can effect the world.😂😂😂😊
A trick for attaching wires with cable ties is to feed the ties through the mounting holes twice(1 loop). This enables the ties to hold the wires more firmly over a greater clamping area and wastes less tie length. This is because less tie is pulled through for more minute control.
I've had quiet a few grill plates in my time. I've never had one that stayed flat when you heated it, and never had one that heated evenly. Cook pancakes on them and let them sit to see if they burn evenly...
Hey Proper, ive been working on an idea that allows 3D prints to be recycled into "glue stick" style piece of stock, then printed using a custom hotend. The reason I think this is important is because it would allow easy recycling at home, using molds and ovens (or grills like these!) Ideally the mold would have integrated gear teeth to mesh with the extruder assembly (and would be around 1x1x"x" cm), to increase torque. Im not very knowledgeable on heat transfer through materials, and I have no machining skills :(( maybe this is a project that interests you? Thanks for reading!!!
@@DrakeOola why? Thermal conductivity would be tough, but with enough torque and heating tool surface area you don’t think it would work? I’m really trying to make this happen, why do you think it’s not worth pursuing?
@@0hellow797 It's not that it wouldn't work at all, it's that it would just work worse in every way compared to filament. You'd need a lot of heat and an extremely precise and extremely powerful extruder. You'd need a lot of heat because you're trying to melt, from the sides in towards the center, a stick of plastic with a cross-sectional area over 30x that of a 1.75mm filament. Since you can't just turn up the heater temperature to increase the heating rate (the plastic on the outside would burn), you'd just have to wait for a long time before printing to let a suitable amount of plastic melt. Similarly, it would take a long time for the hotend to cool down, leading to lots of oozing out the nozzle once the print is finished. It'd have to be extremely precise because you're going from a 10mm diameter stick to a 0.4mm diameter nozzle, about a 630x reduction. Meaning, in order to print a line that 1mm long, you'd need to move the extruder a distance of 0.0016mm or 1.6 microns. Considering that 3d printers make many moves shorter than 1mm, you'd have to be able to control the extruder's movement on the scale of tenths of a micron, which is a lot to ask of a hobby grade machine. Finally, the extruder would have to be very strong because, again, it's pushing a stick of plastic through a 630x reduction hole. Consider that a normal extruder can usually generate several kgs of force (I know it's not technically force but too bad) with a 1.75mm filament. Grabbing a number from the middle range, say 4kg, that's a pressure of about 40bar at the tip of the nozzle. To get that same 40bar pressure with a 10mm diameter stick, the extruder would have to push with about 130kg, which is both hard to do and would require a very beefy hotend assembly to not break apart. Overall, it would be very difficult to make and just wouldn't have any advantages over filament. It's a cool idea and absolutely don't let my speech deter you from trying out your ideas, often the greatest inventions come from wild ideas. If you're really interested in making filament recycling more accessible, I would say your time is better spent trying to improve the methods of creating filament at home. Cheaper and more reliable machines for shredding and extruding filament would help tremendously in making recycling more suitable to hobbyists.
RTV instead of JB weld? Can do the same with the glass plate to transfer heat better. Maybe put some copper powder in it for even better heat transfer.
*PROPER SHOES* = YES ... Jon you had me hooked.... then "Damn' ... you could at least have barbecued _de Proper Schoenzolen_ " I need you next *Vid* - 😱
Also, looks like a non metallic insulator such as Ceramic Thermocouple Insulators. Would do you well for your temp probes! DUDE, this is awesome work, I still haven't got to the END!!!
Your video is a treat as always. Multiple portals is a great idea, maybe even IDEX portals? It was great meeting you at Formnext, the washing machine you ordered with your signature will be delivered soon (tm) ;) That flex in your drill press hurt though.
What is the main plate made out of? I think that it'd be better to drill and tap holes into it if it's metal and thread in M3 threaded thermistors (same ones are some printers use), they are HT enough
That's an awesome use case indeed! Now you mention this, I think even as bottom heater for PCB's with large copper planes or for soldering components with a heat sink like QFN's or power MOSFET's could work as well!
I've considered 19" racks too and I think that this is a great idea! Especially when you make the printer with the flanges, so you can place it in any standard rack just like the regular equipment. Awesome that you're actually doing it, good luck!
Thankyou sir, thats actually a pretty cool idea as well. mine was going to be hard baked in but, making it modular could ad some needless complexity which i tend to gravitate towards. Or transforming the printer from a horizontal bed movement to a vertical bed movement (Ender 5 style) to facilitate dual opposing hotend setup for simultaneous mirror image printing.. Tuning might be enough to drive you insane though. @@properprinting
Did you check how much it deformed with the heat? it's possible to see the deformation in the video. I think it'll be a big problem to print. maybe you'll need to add a think aluminum over the base
I haven't checked it, and probably I have to add some kind of bed leveling probe. On the other hand, I think that at normal printing temperature it wouldn't be that different from a regular 3D printer.
Hi Jens, I'm doing great thanks! I hope you do too. The printer I'm building is starting to come together and I'm also working on several other projects!
@@properprintingAhhh that's great to hear! So a bunch of nice things to come eh? Love it. Here it's going well too. You were right, I did pass the 100 subs that month. At 250 now 🎉 looking forward to seeing you again at Maakplek and your new work 😊
😮 I fully agree with this. How much does it warp though? I effing love this and the multiple gantry design. It's exactly what I would expect to see in a 3d printer for making shipping containers.
@@properprinting Lol yeah shouldn't be terrible. You'll be good after you reinforce it and add the glass plate on top. Looking forward to the printing.
When you showed the print from the thumbnail last Wednesday at the meetup, it really surprised me how transparent the molten part had become. So I wonder if you may be on to something with this way of melting filament.
I love that at the end of this intricate and detailed project video… you turned a countertop grill into a countertop grill. But now with Ethernet and PID tuning!
It was definitely an improvement haha😆
😂
Did he make a 3D printer from this yet? Nope.
Did he make the world's most precise and over engineered grill plate? HELL YEAH 🔥 🤘
Yes he actually did that
It sure is more precise then the standard way of using it. Maybe a lot of us can have one finished before the holidays 😂
And then there's me that couldn't ass myself with getting bed PID tuned so just screw it and let it go in bang-bang mode and call it a day.
@@Kalvinjj if this helps in any way: Once i PID tuned my ender via octoprint, the temps were unstable as hell. Went back to bang-bang and its just fine. Dont bother with PID.
Can we now discuss the amazing benefits of being able to run a print on one side of the bed while simultaneously grilling a sandwich on the other side? This takes 3d printing to an entirely new level.
🤣 THIS
Nicee! Thats the coolest.. no sorry, i meant Hottest build plate i have seen!🎉🎉 looking forward to seeing where this goes!
Now you have to print an induction grill with your new edm printer.
Looks like we got a bed for the infini Z
Nederlands
@@valentijnbakker2166dus?
Ok I don't do this often but I need more videos lol. Found you last year and have watched all of your stuff.
I'm almost finished with the upcoming video and it is my biggest project so far in a single video. Thanks for watching everything!
"What are you sinking about?" Best clip of all time 🤔
Definitely consider the possibility down the line of a pancake batter extruder
The German coastguard meme got me!!! 😂 a real classic!
Best wishes from Germany 🙂
This would work well for melting down prints into sheets of plastic to be used as a raw material for other things. Teaching Tech did a video on it, but used a t-shirt ironing press meant for vinyl shirt graphics. I can't wait to see where you are going with this.
Thank you for going there, that commercial was one of the funniest back then!
I don't know how you come up with some of the ideas you do but they are awesome and amazing content to watch.
Thanks!
I love a new "Moving portal" related project! Actually had a similar idea to the multiple portals one showed here. Only, my idea would have just 2 large "portals", each being an individual 3d printer with its own mainboard, but working on a single large(long) build plate. Essentially making it one giant IDEX. So far it's just an idea, but I'm really curious on how your concept develops since I think it has great potential, and will definitely be interesting to look at!
This is perfect, I wanted to mod my simple stand-alone oven for baking bread because the temperature knob is nightmare. Had a concept in my head, thanks for confimring that concept!
I saw your post on Reddit a few days ago!!
Needed to come with a warning! I'm hungry now. :)
I figure a solution is to crimp the thermocouple in a ring terminal, and use the mica sheet and insulating washers for a TO-220 transistor isolating kit to decouple the washer, the mica is used because it conducts heat quickly, and survives high temperatures.
I use 240VAC 1500W silicon heater atteched to 5mm aluminium sheet. Locks on to temp quick and stays rock solid on temp
OMG, this was too much enjoyable for one video... It was over before I knew it.
Great to see you and Max together. Missed seeing you both this year. You two should collaborate on a crazy project
Dude THIS IS TOO AWESOME. What a genius idea i cant wait to see what you do with it!
Another very different and interesting Proper Printing project has begun! Looking forward to watching this series of videos.
man I love watching you do your thing. you are living the dream making what ever you want and somehow making a living while doing it. it gives me motivation to keep making things.
Thanks Ethan, I really appreciate that! Never stop making!
Since you're putting a piece of glass on it, would it make sense to put a sheet or copper or aluminum between the plate and the glass to even out the hot spots? I'd imagine the thicker the metal the more even the heat but longer time to warm up
Loved the ending. Okay, I loved the whole video. Such exciting ideas with so much potential for printing those proper shoes. I can’t wait to see what's coming next!
Thank you Courtney!
The more videos this guy makes, the more it feels like I'm watching the Tony Stark of 3D printing vlog his experiments. And I love it.
9:37 - when you expect sparks but don't get any, and that's the GOOD outcome xD
Wow that twist at the end! Top Tier 👍
Love it! I always get inspiration from your videos for my own projects, you have a very unique way of thinking and I'm excited to see where you take this!
You can also use thermal conductive silicone paste or tape. It is safe and lasts a very long time.
Hell yea, those threaded inserts are so good! When I changed my garage door opener, I drilled holes in the thin steel plate on the door (it had a plate for bolting the motor onto), but I it was so thin there wouldnt be enough material for proper thread. Put a few of those inserts in, now it is rock solid, with plenty of thread for each bolt.
My first time seeing your content. The work you pit into the special effects alone made me sub
I'd be worried if that SSR ever fails short-circuit. I wonder how hot it would get... Does the plate feature an internal over-temp cutout?
A thermal fuse is also absolutely required.
There are different Types of Temperature Sensor Configurations available.
You can get them with a Metal Shell like the one that fits well but without a Galvanic Connection to it.
Bro; perfect. I'm really looking forward to part 2!
you could try galvanic separation for problem with temperature sensor touching.
I really liked the song "it's not stupid if it works" now it's on my liked :).
I sang it myself!😁
Oh my gosh. Didnt loughed so hard for a long time mate. Nice that you sinking about making a grillplate to a heated bed. 😂 Wish you a good time with youre new project. Youre german coast guard.
What a clever concept! Great way to adapt an everyday device into a useful tool.
Hello this is the German Coast guard 😂😂😂😂 U broke me with that one man 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Amazing, very impressed with the 'portal' design.
Best grill experience I've ever had! Thanks for the meal! 😜
Thanks man, it was awesome and I'm glad you were there!
So when are you making the meat extruder?
I appreciate how meticulous the crimping and riveting were.
I so love this guys stuff.... hilarious and informative... kudos guy.. I hope you're well.
I heard a dutch accent at Formnext this year which I remembered from somewhere. 😅 Saw you talking to the guys at the Slice booth. You were busy planning new stuff so I didn’t want to disturb you. Awesome and refreshing video as always!
I’ve been waiting for this video since your post on the subreddit lol. Great video!
Neber though a benchy could look so yummy
Almost as good as a tomato 🙃
Hello there. I have an idea about why the thermocouple didn't work.
It might be that when you grounded your heat plate you have inadvertently have grounded the sensor. That is to say, invert the connections on the sensor.
I am not to sure how you have done your connections but my gut instinct points me at that being the cause.
As an Irish born Australian, it made me laugh when you took the piss out of yourself.😂😂😂
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀😂
Just as long as we are laughing, we can effect the world.😂😂😂😊
The fact that you converted the grill in to a heatbed and then grilled on it is actually pretty funny 😂
I'm stoked to see this new kind of project
This is perfect for after the trade-show disassembly. I see a 3d printer cook-off competitions in future! Grilling vs sous-vide!
The bearded professor strikes again. I can't wait to see where this goes. Keep up the awesome inspirational work 👏
Oh god its real! I seen your post on reddit!
What a hoot of an idea. Best line ever, “realized my grill plate doesn’t have Wi-Fi”. What a hilarious comment. 😅
13:51 All you need to do now is install the time reversal switch and you'll have your 3D printer!
Working on it! twitter.com/properprinting/status/1730158254372565051
I came for the printing, stayed for the grilling!
A trick for attaching wires with cable ties is to feed the ties through the mounting holes twice(1 loop). This enables the ties to hold the wires more firmly over a greater clamping area and wastes less tie length. This is because less tie is pulled through for more minute control.
You could also print some template to use as a drill guide reference, that's what I usually do instead of lasering the drill positions
That's 1 way to do it! Btw it was nice meeting you
The jigsaw, with a fune-toothed blade can cut aluminum without any problems, it's just really noisy
I've had quiet a few grill plates in my time. I've never had one that stayed flat when you heated it, and never had one that heated evenly. Cook pancakes on them and let them sit to see if they burn evenly...
Hey Proper, ive been working on an idea that allows 3D prints to be recycled into "glue stick" style piece of stock, then printed using a custom hotend. The reason I think this is important is because it would allow easy recycling at home, using molds and ovens (or grills like these!) Ideally the mold would have integrated gear teeth to mesh with the extruder assembly (and would be around 1x1x"x" cm), to increase torque. Im not very knowledgeable on heat transfer through materials, and I have no machining skills :(( maybe this is a project that interests you? Thanks for reading!!!
There's a reason you don't see anyone selling filament as thick as glue sticks... 🤦♂
@@DrakeOola why? Thermal conductivity would be tough, but with enough torque and heating tool surface area you don’t think it would work?
I’m really trying to make this happen, why do you think it’s not worth pursuing?
@@0hellow797 It's not that it wouldn't work at all, it's that it would just work worse in every way compared to filament. You'd need a lot of heat and an extremely precise and extremely powerful extruder.
You'd need a lot of heat because you're trying to melt, from the sides in towards the center, a stick of plastic with a cross-sectional area over 30x that of a 1.75mm filament. Since you can't just turn up the heater temperature to increase the heating rate (the plastic on the outside would burn), you'd just have to wait for a long time before printing to let a suitable amount of plastic melt. Similarly, it would take a long time for the hotend to cool down, leading to lots of oozing out the nozzle once the print is finished.
It'd have to be extremely precise because you're going from a 10mm diameter stick to a 0.4mm diameter nozzle, about a 630x reduction. Meaning, in order to print a line that 1mm long, you'd need to move the extruder a distance of 0.0016mm or 1.6 microns. Considering that 3d printers make many moves shorter than 1mm, you'd have to be able to control the extruder's movement on the scale of tenths of a micron, which is a lot to ask of a hobby grade machine.
Finally, the extruder would have to be very strong because, again, it's pushing a stick of plastic through a 630x reduction hole. Consider that a normal extruder can usually generate several kgs of force (I know it's not technically force but too bad) with a 1.75mm filament. Grabbing a number from the middle range, say 4kg, that's a pressure of about 40bar at the tip of the nozzle. To get that same 40bar pressure with a 10mm diameter stick, the extruder would have to push with about 130kg, which is both hard to do and would require a very beefy hotend assembly to not break apart.
Overall, it would be very difficult to make and just wouldn't have any advantages over filament. It's a cool idea and absolutely don't let my speech deter you from trying out your ideas, often the greatest inventions come from wild ideas. If you're really interested in making filament recycling more accessible, I would say your time is better spent trying to improve the methods of creating filament at home. Cheaper and more reliable machines for shredding and extruding filament would help tremendously in making recycling more suitable to hobbyists.
@@jblack3761 you have no idea how much this amount of info will help, I’ve really had no where to start…
@@jblack3761 looks like I’ll be printing with muuuch larger nozzles I think haha
I think the red high temp silicone rtv would have worked great to mount that thermistor.
5:38 Thats totaly not a bandsaw in the background(?)
RTV instead of JB weld? Can do the same with the glass plate to transfer heat better. Maybe put some copper powder in it for even better heat transfer.
Awesome video :D Looking forward to the next one. Btw. nice throw back to this old advertisement (still one of my favorites) xD
The moment, when your 3d prints smell delicious 🤣
Sometimes I think about how you come up with these ideas... But then I just enjoy the video... 😅🎉🎉🎉
This is awesome! Looking forward to this project!
*PROPER SHOES* = YES ... Jon you had me hooked.... then
"Damn' ... you could at least have barbecued _de Proper Schoenzolen_ "
I need you next *Vid* - 😱
Also, looks like a non metallic insulator such as Ceramic Thermocouple Insulators. Would do you well for your temp probes! DUDE, this is awesome work, I still haven't got to the END!!!
I'm so ready to see the next parts of this project!
The moment that I realiseerde dat... jij ook gewoon Nederlands bent. :-) bedankt voor deze grappige en leerzame 15 minuten!
Awesome project, awesome edits.
Your video is a treat as always. Multiple portals is a great idea, maybe even IDEX portals? It was great meeting you at Formnext, the washing machine you ordered with your signature will be delivered soon (tm) ;)
That flex in your drill press hurt though.
That drill press is junk 😅 I 3D printed the base because the original base wasn't perpendicular. I'm looking forward to it!
That melting benchy was from Helsinki
You are definitely going to hit the next big thing soon.
I loved that! Awesome editing and you're super talented! Thanks for the entertainment.
Another nice project, I always wonder how you come up with these ideas but I love them. It was very cool to meet you at Formnext.
What is the main plate made out of? I think that it'd be better to drill and tap holes into it if it's metal and thread in M3 threaded thermistors (same ones are some printers use), they are HT enough
Could even use it as a cheap and big hotplate for reflow soldering
That's an awesome use case indeed! Now you mention this, I think even as bottom heater for PCB's with large copper planes or for soldering components with a heat sink like QFN's or power MOSFET's could work as well!
This is amazing work, what route did you take to get the CAD for the griddle?
Thanks! A combination of measuring and eyeballing is the route I took.
Ive been thinking about doing this but converting a server rack in to a bed slinger. Doing it now!
I've considered 19" racks too and I think that this is a great idea! Especially when you make the printer with the flanges, so you can place it in any standard rack just like the regular equipment. Awesome that you're actually doing it, good luck!
Thankyou sir, thats actually a pretty cool idea as well. mine was going to be hard baked in but, making it modular could ad some needless complexity which i tend to gravitate towards. Or transforming the printer from a horizontal bed movement to a vertical bed movement (Ender 5 style) to facilitate dual opposing hotend setup for simultaneous mirror image printing.. Tuning might be enough to drive you insane though. @@properprinting
again instant like because the next 15 minutes going to be amazing 😊
I am happy seeing this experiments
I didn’t realize that was your post on Reddit!!!
can you test an color injection directly into the nozzle? (with white filament)
Am I seeing things or is that a band saw in the background when you are bending the aluminium? Why didn't you just cut it with the band saw if it is??
Well spotted! The cut wouldn't be as sharp/straight, but most importantly the saw is missing parts (my dad got it somewhere) hence it doesn't work 😅
Ahhhh yeah fair enough that makes sense!
Did you check how much it deformed with the heat? it's possible to see the deformation in the video. I think it'll be a big problem to print. maybe you'll need to add a think aluminum over the base
I haven't checked it, and probably I have to add some kind of bed leveling probe. On the other hand, I think that at normal printing temperature it wouldn't be that different from a regular 3D printer.
Nice work!!
Bimetalic strip, with an adjustable stop, integrated into a switch.
Think of it as a thermal limit switch.
oh, i saw ur reddit post but then didn't think much of it xd
Hey Jon, hope you're doing well, looking forward to your next video, all the best! 🍀
Hi Jens, I'm doing great thanks! I hope you do too. The printer I'm building is starting to come together and I'm also working on several other projects!
@@properprintingAhhh that's great to hear! So a bunch of nice things to come eh? Love it. Here it's going well too. You were right, I did pass the 100 subs that month. At 250 now 🎉 looking forward to seeing you again at Maakplek and your new work 😊
Nice job homi
Won't the electronics get quite hot when they are mounted so close to the heater plate?
I placed insulation there and it's below the heater. I left the option open to add fans in case it would get hot, but I don't think that's needed.
Hallo?.... z... zisss is a German coast guard! What are you sinking about?
😮 I fully agree with this. How much does it warp though? I effing love this and the multiple gantry design. It's exactly what I would expect to see in a 3d printer for making shipping containers.
No idea how much it warps, but I don't think it's that different than usual when printing at normal temperatures
@@properprinting Bruh.. jump from 1:20 to 2:20 you can literally see the entire center of the plate moved at least a centimeter.
@@bubbasplants189 haha sh*t you're right, well spotted. Well, looks like it needs some reinforcement😅
@@properprinting Lol yeah shouldn't be terrible. You'll be good after you reinforce it and add the glass plate on top. Looking forward to the printing.
Just don't forget an abl for nice straight pieces of "speklap" 😁
I saw you at formnext and I saw you with integsa and I think I didn’t get across that I’m a huge fan so I am saying it here
Forget the prints, can we buy the Grill? 🤩🤩
When you showed the print from the thumbnail last Wednesday at the meetup, it really surprised me how transparent the molten part had become.
So I wonder if you may be on to something with this way of melting filament.
Did you cook some frikandellen on it thought?
No, frikandellen needs to be fried😉
Kroketten wordt ook lastig. Klipper op een airfryer een idee 😊
@@properprinting Nee joh! Werken perfect op een gril, zijn toch al voorgegaard 😜
@@michelvangent3683 Dit is nou nog eens een geweldig idee