thanks for posting, great info. I have a '89 Chevy Van that I just renovated, rebuilt 350 with a sniper, it runs but not great... I'm having the beginnings of buyer's remorse...
I like your thinking on compatibility of old wiring especially grounds as early days of EFI vehicles were prone to stray electron corrosion in cooling systems due to inadequate grounds, the other major overlooked issue tends to be the alternator, not only the amperage capability compared to new loads added by EFI but the fact that older style alternators don't charge as well at low engine speeds as newer style which is a major issue as EFI places nearly the same electrical load at Ida's it does at WOT, a system that struggled to maintain constant adequate system voltage will have mysterious EFI issues, you can rewire your older style alternator to DELTA connection for stator windings but best to fit a more modern type alternator when adding EFI. Another mistake home installers make when wiring partially made wiring harnesses that look like a bunch of wires you need to make to length is as you mentioned making twisted pairs, if any doubt you should twist all paired wires if they are not already done and are not covered, cross inductance from different circuits is very common, the requirement for an "induced" current is you need a conductor ( usually wiring) a magnetic field and a relative movement, if you have two wires running side by side in close proximity then you pass a current along one then you have a magnetic field in rings along the wire then if the other wire is inside that field when the current is switched on and off the magnetic field collapses and builds, collapses and builds along the wire, this is the relative movement which induces a electrical charge in the other wire in the magnetic field, this is the same principle that an ignition coil works on and we know what happens when they are turn on and off, if you are in any doubt of eliminating EMI you can get aluminium cable shielding to put over any wiring, any "Spriral type" HT leads are more than adequate to eliminate EMI on spark side with your resistor type plugs
Your problems and what you researched are the reasons I went with LS swap, but I did noticed the main people who where having troubles was people like me, backyard mechanics, people who were in high dollar shops, it seemed to be working fine, I do think your way of thinking will get you there tho, step by step
You also need a spacer under the sniper to join the pulse signal, or cut the duel plane intake down an inch so the fuel injection senses the signal on both banks.
I have a sniper on top of a 5.7 ls1 running a msd6ls ignition. I had surging idle problems. Ended up being vacuum leaks. Swapped intake gaskets, new pcv grommet. Set the idle in the hand held, adjust the iac to 2-7 once hot and out of closed loop. Don’t forget to do the tps auto set. My iac found its sweet spot at 5-6. Car run’s amazing, much better than messing with jets and accelerator pumps on my old holley.
@@JovaniDanteGriego I’ll check into it. I’m fine with my double pumper but the temp changes by 20 degrees here during the day and it gets old having to retune or change the jets from the morning to afternoon
I feel like you should have tried to get a C20 radiator since they didn't have one for C30. Also it would have an HEI distributor on your year model truck. If memory serves me correctly only 73-74 year trucks had points.
Some of your parameters are off. Should check out Holley's video about setting idle and a few tweaks. I have installed quite a few of these systems and because they are so generic they do require some minor adjustments and as you noticed a lot of the wiring is extremely sensitive to interference. I generally spend more time on wiring then installing components. About 5 hours for wiring and maybe 2 hours to install the components and fuel lines
I have the 85 square body dually. I have been looking into the sniper for mine but I'm not seeing a way to keep both of my gas tanks? Awsome video's. You gotta do an update when you get the dually all electric ready.
Nice video. Look into a late 90s like 96-98 Chevy c2500 big block starter it’s basically a factory mini high torque starter I have one on my 454 it’s night and day compared to the big ole 70s 80s units.
It sounds like you need to shim the starter for sure it also sounds like there's a bad spot on the flywheel as you were turning it over I could hear what sounded like a bad spot kind of acts like the starter is too close to the flywheel
Did you verify timing with timing gun? Holley recommend it also when adjusting iac I think you have to disable hyperspark Ignition set iac between 2-10 also when turn screw if you tps goes to 2 you have to shut off key to reset it to 0 all of this has to be done when above 160* and in closed loop hope that helps
Yep. I got the truck running fine after this video. Took alot of grounds and tweaking. But then my new CDI decided to die within a few months of purchase. Getting really hard to defend this purchase.
I have a 1953 ford bread van 1987 c20 front clip the rear is 1970 c20 rear trailing arms motor is 454 t400 gear vender 14 bolt diff motor to be mounted yet dont know what injection to use yet
@@JovaniDanteGriego I've seen other videos on the Holly sniper EFI that had it on the 350 and it ran and started up pretty good with no hesitation I guess when you know how to wire up things pretty good and makes it a lot easier I'll let my mechanic do the work for me
@@JovaniDanteGriego alright I'll be sure to let them know about it if they don't........my monte Carlo SS goes to this hot rod shop sometime when I need stuff done to it cause some mechanics you just can't trust anymore and it's very sad
Grimpyour battery cables ground engine to frame ! Ground frame to battery ground battery to engine be shore not to use cheap ends and make your grounds out of welding cable
Also on a few of the square bodies that I've had over the years they have another ground goes from the firewall to the back of the engine block it's usually a flat ribbon style wire with no insulation on it a lot of times people pull a transmission or pull cylinder heads or pull the engine out of a truck and they destroy that wire and never put it back most of all of the trucks I've ever messed with always have more than that one ground on the alternator bracket I typically run another ground wire from the battery down to the frame this is because of adding in stereo equipment that seems to be incredibly sensitive to ground. LOL plug my channel bro
the fix for a Holley sniper 1 is a dumpster ,, they screwed this up bad and let the general public pay to figure it out for them ,, then they release version 2 and don't give any deals to the loyal folks who bought gen 1 junk
thanks for posting, great info. I have a '89 Chevy Van that I just renovated, rebuilt 350 with a sniper, it runs but not great... I'm having the beginnings of buyer's remorse...
I like your thinking on compatibility of old wiring especially grounds as early days of EFI vehicles were prone to stray electron corrosion in cooling systems due to inadequate grounds, the other major overlooked issue tends to be the alternator, not only the amperage capability compared to new loads added by EFI but the fact that older style alternators don't charge as well at low engine speeds as newer style which is a major issue as EFI places nearly the same electrical load at Ida's it does at WOT, a system that struggled to maintain constant adequate system voltage will have mysterious EFI issues, you can rewire your older style alternator to DELTA connection for stator windings but best to fit a more modern type alternator when adding EFI.
Another mistake home installers make when wiring partially made wiring harnesses that look like a bunch of wires you need to make to length is as you mentioned making twisted pairs, if any doubt you should twist all paired wires if they are not already done and are not covered, cross inductance from different circuits is very common, the requirement for an "induced" current is you need a conductor ( usually wiring) a magnetic field and a relative movement, if you have two wires running side by side in close proximity then you pass a current along one then you have a magnetic field in rings along the wire then if the other wire is inside that field when the current is switched on and off the magnetic field collapses and builds, collapses and builds along the wire, this is the relative movement which induces a electrical charge in the other wire in the magnetic field, this is the same principle that an ignition coil works on and we know what happens when they are turn on and off, if you are in any doubt of eliminating EMI you can get aluminium cable shielding to put over any wiring, any "Spriral type" HT leads are more than adequate to eliminate EMI on spark side with your resistor type plugs
Thanks for the detailed explanation!
Your problems and what you researched are the reasons I went with LS swap, but I did noticed the main people who where having troubles was people like me, backyard mechanics, people who were in high dollar shops, it seemed to be working fine, I do think your way of thinking will get you there tho, step by step
Yep! I noticed the same thing alot of high end shops have zero issues. But most of the time they are changing alot more than just the sniper
@@JovaniDanteGriego yeah I’m about 4 months into a LS swap, but I tore the motor down and went thru it,
@@thruitallauto2538 nice!
You also need a spacer under the sniper to join the pulse signal, or cut the duel plane intake down an inch so the fuel injection senses the signal on both banks.
Did that. Didn't do anything significant
I put a 1" phenolic spacer under the sniper to help keep it cool. Worked great for a few years on my 390 ford. Took it off to put on my Dart.
I have a sniper on top of a 5.7 ls1 running a msd6ls ignition. I had surging idle problems. Ended up being vacuum leaks. Swapped intake gaskets, new pcv grommet. Set the idle in the hand held, adjust the iac to 2-7 once hot and out of closed loop. Don’t forget to do the tps auto set. My iac found its sweet spot at 5-6. Car run’s amazing, much better than messing with jets and accelerator pumps on my old holley.
I’m thinking of going with a sniper but breakdown with a carb is easy to fix. How reliable is the sniper?
Half the guys on the sniper groups will say it's the most reliable thing, the other half have had to replace multiple units
@@JovaniDanteGriego thanks. I might give it a shot
@@andymartin4747 if you have the funds opt for one of the units with the separate terminator ECU. I think it's the stealth ?
@@JovaniDanteGriego I’ll check into it. I’m fine with my double pumper but the temp changes by 20 degrees here during the day and it gets old having to retune or change the jets from the morning to afternoon
Some really good info, I love following your projects. Keep the videos coming.
Thank you!
Great video very real and honest , I can relate because I am having same issues
Thank you
Thanks!
I feel like you should have tried to get a C20 radiator since they didn't have one for C30. Also it would have an HEI distributor on your year model truck. If memory serves me correctly only 73-74 year trucks had points.
Yo wth! RUclips didn't give me a notification but man I jump off my seat when I saw this video on my feed 😂
Some of your parameters are off. Should check out Holley's video about setting idle and a few tweaks. I have installed quite a few of these systems and because they are so generic they do require some minor adjustments and as you noticed a lot of the wiring is extremely sensitive to interference. I generally spend more time on wiring then installing components. About 5 hours for wiring and maybe 2 hours to install the components and fuel lines
Looks good alittle bit of black paint would’ve went a long way to clean up the area around the radiator
I have the 85 square body dually. I have been looking into the sniper for mine but I'm not seeing a way to keep both of my gas tanks? Awsome video's. You gotta do an update when you get the dually all electric ready.
Nice video. Look into a late 90s like 96-98 Chevy c2500 big block starter it’s basically a factory mini high torque starter I have one on my 454 it’s night and day compared to the big ole 70s 80s units.
It sounds like you need to shim the starter for sure it also sounds like there's a bad spot on the flywheel as you were turning it over I could hear what sounded like a bad spot kind of acts like the starter is too close to the flywheel
Did you verify timing with timing gun? Holley recommend it also when adjusting iac I think you have to disable hyperspark Ignition set iac between 2-10 also when turn screw if you tps goes to 2 you have to shut off key to reset it to 0 all of this has to be done when above 160* and in closed loop hope that helps
Hi yes I verified timing. It was within a degree or two when whecked with a light
How about setting iac and tps?
Yep. I got the truck running fine after this video. Took alot of grounds and tweaking. But then my new CDI decided to die within a few months of purchase. Getting really hard to defend this purchase.
Good info. Would you recommend this system to someone that has a new sbc 350? Or would you recommend just selling the sbc and doing an LS swap?
I'd recommend stepping up to a holley super sniper. If you go with this just expect some issues
20 degrees of timing isn't enough and will make the engine run hot and will make it stumble
32
I will say once I got a tuner to help me out the holley improved tremendously.
Any link to the radiator you used?
Whoops I forgot to link it! I will do that now!
@@JovaniDanteGriego thanks. I'm in the middle of a LS K5 2WD 5 speed swap. Some of your videos have been helpful.
@@MeHoffMotorsports I appreciate you watching!
Should have had hei from the factory standard in 75
I have a 1953 ford bread van 1987 c20 front clip the rear is 1970 c20 rear trailing arms motor is 454 t400 gear vender 14 bolt diff motor to be mounted yet dont know what injection to use yet
I'd spring for either a factory conversion with a 0411 ECU or opt for the stealth
@Jovani Dante Griego thks don't know about stealth howll. Have a kit thks
Do you know the exact headers you are running? I wanna get a set but it looks like the frame is very close on the passenger side of my 85 dually.
I do not. They are hooker headers I believe. They came with the truck
How did you deal with the dual tanks and the pump?
Running 1 tank for now. It's a 87 r10 tank so it's baffled and has a pump hanger
Damn dude that truck is so badass I'm actually jealous 😂
Thanks man 😂
👍💪
Great video bro I'm planning on getting one for my 350sbc
Watch the rest of the sniper videos on my channel just so you know what you are getting into
@@JovaniDanteGriego I've seen other videos on the Holly sniper EFI that had it on the 350 and it ran and started up pretty good with no hesitation I guess when you know how to wire up things pretty good and makes it a lot easier I'll let my mechanic do the work for me
@@Mr.Frost181 it's not just that. Make sure your mechanic understands EMI and RFI.
@@JovaniDanteGriego alright I'll be sure to let them know about it if they don't........my monte Carlo SS goes to this hot rod shop sometime when I need stuff done to it cause some mechanics you just can't trust anymore and it's very sad
You still not doing what holley instructions said... the positive and ground must go directly to the battery not connected to anything
It is connected directly
Grimpyour battery cables ground engine to frame ! Ground frame to battery ground battery to engine be shore not to use cheap ends and make your grounds out of welding cable
Crimp not crip lol I crimp and solder makes for a way better connection
Also on a few of the square bodies that I've had over the years they have another ground goes from the firewall to the back of the engine block it's usually a flat ribbon style wire with no insulation on it a lot of times people pull a transmission or pull cylinder heads or pull the engine out of a truck and they destroy that wire and never put it back most of all of the trucks I've ever messed with always have more than that one ground on the alternator bracket I typically run another ground wire from the battery down to the frame this is because of adding in stereo equipment that seems to be incredibly sensitive to ground. LOL plug my channel bro
2 and both junk
the fix for a Holley sniper 1 is a dumpster ,, they screwed this up bad and let the general public pay to figure it out for them ,, then they release version 2 and don't give any deals to the loyal folks who bought gen 1 junk
I was watching your first video n know you were going to run into problems cause you were doing your own thing n not following holley instructions.
Yea that's how it goes sometimes. The unit actually did end up being defective if you've been keeping up with the videos
Holley sucks. I hate mine.