Tools and Supplies Used 4" ADS Solid Corrugated Pipe: geni.us/iF7e 4" ADS Corrugated Wye: geni.us/2r8w8J 4" NDP Popup Emitter: geni.us/Dwg3VEX 4" PVC to 4" Corrugated Coupling: geni.us/RL1ruZ Trench Shovel: geni.us/W9xrZ Hand Rake/Cultivator: geni.us/SMso5g Heavy Duty Pick Mattock: geni.us/jQZAPE1 Jawhorse (Sawhorse and Vise): geni.us/XZTa9 String: geni.us/NLC9C5C Line Level: geni.us/XoLaV Tools Every Weekend Warrior Needs Makita Cordless Drill Combo Kit: geni.us/t7dIA Dewalt Drill Bit Set: geni.us/oFlSl Dewalt Screwdriver Bit Set: geni.us/VDcr Craftsman Screwdriver Set: geni.us/jXqFI Eklind Allen Wrench Set: geni.us/7XfvO Pliers (4-Piece Set): geni.us/RIdx Milwaukee Fastback Utility Knife: geni.us/MlyiLk Stanley Tape Measure: geni.us/bUfD1R Studbuddy Stud Finder: geni.us/RySCuVw Johnson Torpedo Level: geni.us/wiLcDY Stanley Hammer: geni.us/bPDk8Wo Buck Bros Wood Chisel Set: geni.us/vk3cpTW Klein Voltage Tester: geni.us/h9Hl Klein Outlet Tester: geni.us/kdBAJ Milwaukee Wire Strippers: geni.us/5zuLAbC Little Giant Ladder: geni.us/fmlmTk DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
This is a great video except living in the Northeast where the ground freezes or the pipe may freeze and/or get snow/ice blocked at the endcap, I would think you would at least need "Freeze Relief" or some secondary relief opening on the sump pump line. If the line ever freezes or gets clogged/blocked, continuous running of the sump pump would cause pressure within the drain line with no where for the water to drain and create backpressure up the downspout line. Rather than capping the cleanout, I installed a drainage grate on the cleanout so in the event that the pipe freezes or gets clogged, the sump pump should create enough pressure for the water to reach the cleanout and still drain on the outside of the house and not back up into the sump pump basin and possibly flood the basement. Additionally, unless the water on the sidewalk is from some other source other than the popup valve, I probably would have selected a different spot for the popup valve that was further away from the sidewalk as you wouldn't want continuous water bleeding onto the sidewalk depending on how often your sump pump runs. In cold weather, the water would freeze creating ice patches anytime the temperature goes below the freezing point.
Great video. Thanks. Having done this 10 years ago, and getting ready to do it again (new house), I’d make one recommendation: rather than marking multiple measurements on your stake to check grade, just slope a string above the trench matching your desired slope. Then you can move along the entire run and check for slope everywhere with a single line marked on a stick.
One other trick I’ll be using this time: dig a post hole under your pop up, line it with a fabric sock, and fill it with round stone. It will act as a small dry well and ensure your elbow drains quickly, to avoid freezing or attracting insects.
it is also a good idea to put some gravel under and around the weep hole at the end of the pipe where the pop up emitter is to halp the water drain into the ground.
This video will give me a good start. I live in a tri level and i have to route mine from the front of the house, around the corner, and down the side into the backyard. Ive got a lot to figure out and a lot to dig!
Hopefully you aren't tackling the project when it is 100F outside. Might want to consider a 4" trencher. As long as you mark all your utilities to ensure you don't cut anything those trenchers can be worth every penny to rent.
I have many years selling drainage and waterproofing solutions, so I'll throw out some ideas and comments- First, there are exceptions to every rule and every yard will have its own particular variables, so there is not just one way to always do things. Everything about every yard should be considered to find the best solution for each yard and there is sometimes more than one acceptable way to skin a cat. Having said that, here are a few of my thoughts regarding your video- 1- There should be a small drywell under the pop-up so water that is left in the pipe when the rain stops can drain, otherwise, there is a high chance that the sitting water will freeze in the winter and block the discharge. We take a post hole digger and dig down a minimum of 12" - 18" and fill with 1" pond stones, and sometimes we even dig deeper on long runs. Even with the drywell, the water will percolate down very slowly, especially if the soil has a high clay content. If it is possible the discharge will be more efficient if you can take it to daylight so residual water is never left in the pipe after rains, but that is not always possible with flat yards. You can also install an inline pop-up higher up the run (a few inches above the level of the pop-up that's at the end). Water should not remain there after rains and this will give the downspout water somewhere to discharge if the end of the line is blocked and water should not discharge there when the end of the line is open. If possible this should not be within 8-10' from the exterior wall to protect the house. Taping all joints with tile tape is a good idea as you suggest. 2- On the sump discharge, we usually just put an end cap on the 4" pipe with a 1.5" hole drilled in it and connect the sump discharge line there. Some kind of overflow on the sump line is a good idea in case the 4" pipe gets blocked. 3. In one of your previous videos you suggested extending the aluminum downspout out as an option. I would not recommend doing this as they so often have something fall on them or someone steps on them etc. and the downspout gets crushed and blocked. If you want to extend the downspout on the surface I would suggest using a pipe that is resilient to damage. I also would rather see them buried as surface pipes are tripping hazards unless they are set in garden areas where no one ever walks.
Dear Poonbeat, I look forward to your videos and channels. Hopefully, in several years (if starting now), you will have 767,000 subscribers. I bid you the best in your day job which you should keep.
You are a smart and practical dude. I am working to keep water away from my home in an area with lots of ledge. The diggng will not be easy but I am envious of what you did, and in a common sense way.
@@DiffEQ: Dear Diff, If you're so smart, why don't you have the ability to make videos, possess a channel, teach the community, and have 767,000 subscribers?
Thanks for such a great video. everything looks well done. Two suggestions. Northerners need freeze relief at the house exit and for aesthetic's, do a minimalist french drain to dry well at the end of the line. The water can seep into the ground more efficiently. If that is a 24/7 365 sump line , a wet sidewalk is kinda off putting for property value. keep up the great work
Nice video !! Here are a few things that I did different I bought a roll of black plastic bags that were perforated, but still connected to dump the dirt onto. When I was finished, I still have a roll of bags that I can use for other jobs I started connecting at the house to make certain everything fit before cutting anything I set up the corrugated pipe a few days prior to digging so I could reroute the water and get rid of the mud before the digging started For cleanout, I go to the pop-up end and shove a hose in there. I block the exiting water until I have 20-30 gallons sitting in the pipe, then I let it go all at once and it flushes the line like a toilet flush. I use a shopvac to pull out the water as it exits. That makes the flushing even more thorough.
This a fantastic video, great job. I also appreciate the slope calculations needed for proper installation. I can't wait to start a similar project like this one. bigFan of your videos!
I really enjoyed watching this video because I would like to connect my sump pump and a downspout together and re-direct the water in my backyard. I also like how neat everything was done!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs You are welcome, Scott! The first thing I have to do first though is finish working on replacing and leveling a laundry room floor in my home.
Great video! Always nice to see the process start to finish- and I appreciate you highlighting some of your challenges as well as your successes. I wouldn’t have thought to run a sheet of plastic down the entire length of the trench, that’s a really smart and simple solution to managing all of that fill!
Great video. Thanks! But for the 11:44 section, I believe I would've started at the end of the trench and worked my way back to the house. Less time in the sun! I'm in the Houston area and most of year, that's definitely a consideration!
Great video. Straight forward and easy to follow. Really helped to see the diagram and how you used a string to measure slope. Didn’t’t know how that was done. Now i can go out and check the actual slope of my seemingly flat yard.
I wish I could dig a trench that fast!!! 😁😜 🤣😂🤣😂🤣 Not even without lower back, hips and neck issues! Should we call you, The Flash? I watched from today's (11/7/2023) *DIY Guide To Installing Gutters.* Don't know if I'll need it, I'd have to measure flatness or slope, but there's ditch in front yard near the street for rain (we don't have city sewage or drainage) which I could trench to for front and back gutters. I'd do both on the same side, Y them together and let the gutters drain into the ditch. Thanks, Scott!
I found a sinkhole beside my house about 4 foot deep and 5 foot wide. It was caused because the corrugated pipe from my down spout and sump pump became disconnected underground and the water was pooling up underground over the years. The only thing stopping someone from falling through the ground was a thin layer of grass, dirt and roots from some bushes.
Thanks for this well explained video. I have drain line from the backyard that wrap around the side of my house that has been fill with tree roots, so I am trying to muster up the courage to install a new drain line on the other side of the house, no trees at all, but it all under concrete driveway pad. 8-/ (I use 3 sump pumps every winter during storms FUN TIMES!)
Nice job and thanks for sharing. You made that back breaking job look easy. Last autumn I did the same job but just 35' long and in my glacier gravel the rocks were a ball buster and took 5 days to dig just 35'. I still need to dig another 25' section but plan to rent a Dig Witch for that having learned my lesson. :) Bummer about your CATV cable. Thanks again!
Yeah, I should have called a little more attention to the amount of effort involved in digging trenches. You will sleep well after a day or 2 of manual digging.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes for sure. I envy your soil as mine is so full of rocks that every pickax or shovel strike hit a rock but very little dirt. After 3 hours each day my back was screaming for a chiropractor. :) Thanks again for making it look easy. Fingers crossed when I rent a Ditch-Witch that it goes easier.
Nice work! Be careful in the wintertime though... It looks like you may end up with a semi-permanent icy/slick spot on the sidewalk during the right time of year.
For sure, I have a little more rerouting to do for the downspouts and then will monitor the frequency of the sump pump as I would expect the frequency of the sump pumping out water will reduce substantially and then that should reduce or eliminate water going on the sidewalk outside of when it is actually raining. We shall see 🤞
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes, the guy who installed my sump pump refused to do this for the reason of liability/lawsuits in that it would make the sidewalk wet
I installed a similar 20' separate drain, with pop-up near where my ground slopes away. I plan on putting a backup sump on this separate pvc drain. My only concern is during winter. The popup won't work, even though there is less likelihood of using the backup sump during winter. .... Just a suggestion.... At the end, where the popup is, I installed a PVC T, with one end of the T pointing up to the popup. The other end pointing straight down. I dig a hole about 4 feel below that T and filled it with pearock (surrounded by a drainage sleeve). That way, any water first goes.straigjt down, into the pearock sock. Should it fill up, then the rest of the water would comes up to the popup. Hope that makes sense
Northern state or not (I'm from Missouri and we get tons of freezing weather and ice etc.), you should have used PVC for just a downspout extension throughout the yard. That corrugated pipe will fill with shingle debri and bugs over time. They are a nightmare to clean out as well and sometimes you end up damaging them when cleaning them out and don't even realize it. Also, at any corrugated connection you should have used tile tape to seal it 100%. I saw you taped it at the pop up connection, but it would have been smart to tape it at your sump connection as well. Weeds and roots will grow right under those hose clamps. Either way, PVC works fine up north as well. Never had any issues with it freezing or breaking at all and it's a breeze to clean out with just a water hose. Corrugated will take a lance or "bullet head" on a pressure washer to get clean with quite a bit of effort compared to smooth wall PVC. You did a great job. It's just that I made the same mistake by using corrugated in the same manner for downspouts and regretted it after a year or 2. Now I only have to run a water hose down my PVC every 3-4 years and that's just to be safe.
I am doing a 2 way connection for my sump ump discharge so in summer i can use sumpup water for gardening, wondering to see how your rubber connectors are working, I wanted to see if rubber connector is the best option or I should choose PEX and permanent, I live in alberta and winter is -40, so would like your opinion on rubber connectors for winter. Thank you
Watched all 5 in this series. I recall the first one saying you didn't want the sidewalk wet all the time, so what was the fix there? I also didn't catch how you decided which direction to go away from the house and how long to make the run.
See 2:00. I assume "JULIE" is his local "call before you dig" utility location service. Quick web search tells me that "JULIE" is an acronym for "Joint Utility Locating Information for Excavators", seems to be primarily in use in Illinois. Seems the main thing he missed is actually _calling_ the service. I guess it's a "do as I say, not as I do" thing. :)
Great job! I only had to go 16’ to a run off that goes to a storm sewer. I did 2 lines one for sump pump, other for downspout. I did the sump pump line in pvc drainage pipe 4”. The downspout was 4” corrugated. Both lines have a slotted drainage cover to keep out animals (rabbits, snakes, etc.). Fernco does make a reducer for the sump pump.....2 to 4” or 1 1/2 to 4”, this would have eliminated some of the glueing and fitting you did. Thanks....Jim PS.....Does the 4” pvc fit into the 4” corrugated pipe? If so, than just warm up and use a large clamp, this would be a better connection (tape if necessary & then clamp). I’m in the Chicago area, and did this 17 years ago, and still working perfectly. I have 5 down spouts down & 1 sump pump.
Hey Jim, thanks for the feedback. Good question and I don't think the PVC will fit in the corrugated but not 100%. I have 5 more downspouts which need extended to get things where I would like them. Plenty of projects for this season 👍
I did a similar project years ago. I found that a direct connection from the sump pump to the pipe is a bad idea. If water cannot flow through the pipe, it can backup up into the basement. The pump will not be a to get it out. Better to have an "overflow" near the foundation. I wish I could provide a picture. I used a tee with an output higher, in case the underground one is clogged. Gives you a chance in a storm to see that the water is not flowing through the underground pipe. I have seen this happen in my setup if the end of the pipe is in a submerged pool of water due to flooding. It might not make sense that this would restrict the flow, but I cannot argue with what happens in my setup.
Great Video, Thanks. Just curious why you went out so far in you lawn. Looks like you sump works all the time making the sidewalk always wet. If you would have put it further back in the lawn (with less digging on you part), maybe the sump water would have absorbed into your lawn. I had this done by a landscaper on my lawn taking it under a sidewalk our to the curb. Done 7 years ago and is working great.
Nice job! Perhaps put a grated cap on the downspout clean out to get better flow. Also, if it should freeze over ( if you’re in the north) it allows back spill
I had to do that, same problem, pump dumping in the yard. I used a golf ball to check the drop, but I used PVC to run it from the house to the ditch we have out by the road, not sure if a trap well hold all the water we get in a down pour
Great work on the planning and clean trench excavation. I really wish you did not use the corrugated black pipe for this and went PVC instead. The PVC is cleaner, less probe to clog and can be cleaned. The corrugated pipe will clog with organics and roof granules. Worse if you do not have gutter guards. I’ve been involved in lawsuits where this exactly happened. On the PVC, you can use drainage rock, perforated pipe and landscape wrapping on the pipe to work as a french drain, which reduces how much runoff comes out the end of the pipe. Although in this case, that could be problematic with water percolating back to the basement. On the popup emitter, NDS does not mention this, but you should put that slightly above grade and raise the sod up around it so it discharges into a local high spot. This prevents it from discharging into a pool during heavy rain as your work area settles. Great tip in the plastic!!!
I just watched your video and I want to share my experience with sump lines. I replaced mine about 4 years ago with schedule 40 pvc. We have a lot of minerals in our sump water so it needs to be as smooth as possible. My line drains into my storm sewers out front. About every 2 years I need to have line jetted out. And my sump runs 3 times a minute so I have a lot of water. Is everyone else in neighborhood doing what you are doing? I enjoy your videos keep them coming.
Steel bar at 10:47 you speak about. I am looking for that tool and wonder what it is called and/or where I may be able to pick one up. Thanks in advance. Oh, by the way, great videos👍
Corrugated piping will collapse and fail at some point. By design it slows flow and trapes dirt/leaves. Use solid piping and don't worry about any "required" slope to ensure clean flushing. I've had to replace all the gutter corrugated drains on my lot dur to collapse or root intrusion. Solid pipes have been flawless.
Would connecting lengths of solid pipe with rubber couplings not clamped allow for freeze-thaw expansion and contraction? Any small "leakage' would not be a concern outdoors.
Turbulence in the water from flowing over the ripples loosens up debris and helps it make its way out of the system. Not as efficient as Sched 40, but corex is cheaper and easier for the everyday weekend warriors to use.
16:43 Shouldn't you place some gravel and yard fabric / weed barrier around the area where the weep hole is? Seems that would also be a wonderful place for roots to get into and clog the drain.
How as that big box store corrugated pipe held up? I want to do this but heard they’re very cheap and crush. Seems the only other option is the French drain man’s pipes but their freight cost is high. Have you had any issues with this pipe?
I recently moved into a house with a septic system and the previous owners were just a couple and all six of us caused a lot of backups. We did laundry every night and sometimes once during the day too. It was a lot of water going into the septic so we just ran the water through pvc pipe slowly getting bigger and bigger (starting with 1 1/4 inch pipe) then finally attached the pvc to a small flexible corrugated pipe and attached that to a longer perforated corrugated pipe that had a mesh wrapped around it and in between the mesh was some sort of styrofoam in place of gravel that I found at the Home Depot but I think I saw it at Lowe’s too. I attached a flexible pop up emitter to the end for overflow. As of about 2 months of using it, it works flawlessly! If it ever fails I still have the option to simply lift the hose attached to the washer out of the pvc pipe and place it back in the original spot. (I am down south so I can use the pvc pipe without having to worrying about freezing)
Looks good. Idea where you came out of the house from your sump pump would a T work better so you might be able to have a better flush line? Thanks for sharing your video with us.
What's the performance been like after a year now? Would you have done anything differently? Perhaps Perf pipe atleast towards the end, just because of how much water you have? Or maybe 2 pop ups based on the amount of water? Just trying to get a sense of what is needed. I have rentals as well. I had a guy do one of mine, I'm sure incorrectly too, but wanted to see what your thoughts are. Nice job, not really liking the black pipe at the house though.
Hey James, overall the performance has been great. I did need to change the location of the end popup as it was too close to the sidewalk especially in the winters. I rerouted the 4" corrugated running parallel with the sidewalk with about a 15' offset to allow the water to soak into my lawn as compared to going on the sidewalk. Best of luck on your project!
Why you didn’t take it to the curb ? I just had to install sub pump at my back door to avoid flooding in basement I ask about the curb because it right there and you wouldn’t have to deal with sidewalks issue due to water.
How is that connection between the sump pump rubber coupling and the corrugated pipe holding up? I had something similar at one point in time and could never get a good seal. It would always leak around it.
Good Day Sir, I am having a green algae coming from my downspout (or sump pump) drain. Who should I contact to correct the issue? Plumber? Basic contractor? Any assistance you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs What's the frequency like in the winter? I believe you've mentioned you're in the midwest (and I've noticed the Illini shirts 🤢😛). If that sidewalk gets much use, I might be concerned about creating an icy patch. Great series though! I'll have to rewatch when I get around to reworking my downspouts.
That would generate a repair warning here. We can't impinge on sidewalks and we're responsible for keeping them clear of ice. That would have to empty into a gutter or swale and not on the road.
Ya know folks if yer lot is graded correctly and yer basement has a gray water set up with everything waterproofed best as possible should be fine always build yer pad up
Just yank the sidewalks out. Easy fix. They're your sidewalk anyway. Nobody uses sidewalks anymore anyway. People walk their dogs in the middle of the street next to perfect good sidewalks.
Endless battle of the PVC vs corrugated camps. I think either is just fine. PVC guys show bogus tests and corrugated guys make bogus claims. Don't think either is completely right or wrong.
Don't you need to allow for freezing and not completely connect sump pvc to corregated pipe so if corregated freezes or gets clogged water still exits sump pump?
Thanks for sharing... Nice job! Do you think there would be any problems with the corrugated pipe being on top of the grass assuming that it would be running in my own private back yard and that the slopping is appropriate? Thanks
Good work but, a real risk of flooding your basement when the corrugated pipe freezes. You need an opening at the sump pump connection to the corrugated, so if it freezes it will run over outside instead of inside. Locking it up tight like you did is a recipe for basement flooding.
How does that elbow with the weep hole keep working when the ground freezes? Won’t it stop draining and cause the pipe to freeze during an extended cold period?
You should have dry fitted your coupling before assembling it, so the lengths and alignment were correct. In addition, you should have attached the corrugated at the sump pump end then placed it in the trench and cut the far end to the correct length. Doing it that way would have eliminated the futzing around you had to do to fit the coupling to the sump pump outlet.
Clean work. I’d plan on extending that pop up to discharge on the other side of the sidewalk so the water falls onto the curb area along the road. If I was your neighbor and walked my dog it’d really annoy the crap outta me that the sidewalk was always wet. Otherwise, great execution.
Great video! Two questions: How long does corrugated pipe like that last - 10 years or more? I have a similar project to do, but I have more trees in my yard than you, so I worry about tree roots. Secondly, did you consider backfilling with gravel around the corrugated pipe about half way out from your house (like french drain style)? I’m considering something like this to avoid one single area of water expulsion at the site of the pop up, and prevent washout/erosion etc…Thanks for your feedback!
French drain style would work if you had gravel underneath a perforated pipe because the ground water would go into the pipe and be carried away as the water table rose in the ground. However, he's not at a low point in his yard so that would be overkill for what he's trying to do and might not accomplish anything. It would also release all that water into the trench and possibly erode the trench over time by doing that. Great for moving water out of low areas in your yard where you have issues, though.
My thought is that I would have terminated into a hole filled with large gravel underground rather than the pop-up emitter. It may overflow during a heavy storm, but everything is wet then anyway. It was a well done job though.
I might actually add another line of perforated running parallel to the side walk sitting on gravel to allow the majority of the water to just leach into the ground outside of large rain events. I will monitor how wet the sidewalk is for the next week or 2 and then make the plan from there. Thanks for the feedback!
I did both. I terminated to a T at the end of the drain. One end points straight up to the popup. The other pointed down to a 4 ft hole, drainage sock filled with pearock. Water will first go down. Should it completely fill up, then it would emit to the popup drain
@@DeadBeatDeeBo look up "drain sleeve". They sell it at home Depot for cheap. I dug the 4 ft hole right where the drain terminates (the T). I took some of that drain sleeve, tied a knot on one end and while holding it in the freshly dug hole, I filled it with pearock. I figured that would keep the pearock from filling with dirt and clay. As the rock goes in, it stretches to fill the hole. After it's filled with rock, tie the top too, and terminate your drain/T right above it You can't see a thing (except the pop-up) after you put your popup drain and the sod around it all
That discharge will ice or algae the sidewalk. I would have sent it to the left (in tree shadows, more in middle of yard, lower elevation). I'd also have rented a motorized trencher too. A little deeper would have been good too.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs i thought about doing this but the length for me would be 20 feet. my only concern is would all the water freeze and build up underground in the winter
I appreciate you taking the time to record, edit and share that video with us showing that kind of work can be done neatly and with very little damage to your lawn. I guess you have to be a homeowner to pay attention to that as unfortunately most contractors will dump the dirt on the lawn and leave the bare spot while telling you the grass will grow back. There is one thing that looked odd to me, and it could be my lack of knowledge of where you live. It appears to me you are pretty much dumping all that water on what looks like a pedestrian track/pathway. Is that what you are doing?
Another great video. Can you explain what you did at the downspout. I see you attached the corrugated wye to the pipe. Am I correct to assume that a downspout adapter doesn't connect directly to the wye. Did I see you cut a small piece of corrugated pipe to connect the downspout adapter to the wye. Is this correct? Thanks again
Hey Paul, correct I had to cut a small "riser" of 4" corrugated to properly attach the downspout adapter to the wye pipe. Also I went back and used the corrugated pipe tape to seal the adapter, riser, and wye after the video. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks alot. Do you purchase the pipe tape at Depot or Lowes. I am in Canada and cant seem to find it. Also I see you primarily use corrugated pipe instead of pvc. You mentioned about the frost and how it can flex the pvc joints. I see plenty of snow and frost in my area so I plan to use corrugated pipe. Do you ever experience issues however with leaves or debris getting caught in the pipe.
I don't recall your location? Is this going to be a lawsuit if someone slips on the sidewalk in the winter? I realize there is value in having your own tools, but did you research the cost of renting a trencher? But thanks, I would like to do something similar.
I will be keeping an eye on the sidewalk and if we get into summer and the sidewalk is still wet from the sump pump discharge I will add 10-15' of perforated pipe running parallel to the sidewalk to leach the water into the ground opposed to running on the sidewalk. No trencher on this project but I have a bigger one coming up and I might rent a mini excavator.
![Best Pipe for French Drains: Differences Explained [Series 2 of 4]](/img/1.gif)
Tools and Supplies Used
4" ADS Solid Corrugated Pipe: geni.us/iF7e
4" ADS Corrugated Wye: geni.us/2r8w8J
4" NDP Popup Emitter: geni.us/Dwg3VEX
4" PVC to 4" Corrugated Coupling: geni.us/RL1ruZ
Trench Shovel: geni.us/W9xrZ
Hand Rake/Cultivator: geni.us/SMso5g
Heavy Duty Pick Mattock: geni.us/jQZAPE1
Jawhorse (Sawhorse and Vise): geni.us/XZTa9
String: geni.us/NLC9C5C
Line Level: geni.us/XoLaV
Tools Every Weekend Warrior Needs
Makita Cordless Drill Combo Kit: geni.us/t7dIA
Dewalt Drill Bit Set: geni.us/oFlSl
Dewalt Screwdriver Bit Set: geni.us/VDcr
Craftsman Screwdriver Set: geni.us/jXqFI
Eklind Allen Wrench Set: geni.us/7XfvO
Pliers (4-Piece Set): geni.us/RIdx
Milwaukee Fastback Utility Knife: geni.us/MlyiLk
Stanley Tape Measure: geni.us/bUfD1R
Studbuddy Stud Finder: geni.us/RySCuVw
Johnson Torpedo Level: geni.us/wiLcDY
Stanley Hammer: geni.us/bPDk8Wo
Buck Bros Wood Chisel Set: geni.us/vk3cpTW
Klein Voltage Tester: geni.us/h9Hl
Klein Outlet Tester: geni.us/kdBAJ
Milwaukee Wire Strippers: geni.us/5zuLAbC
Little Giant Ladder: geni.us/fmlmTk
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This is a great video except living in the Northeast where the ground freezes or the pipe may freeze and/or get snow/ice blocked at the endcap, I would think you would at least need "Freeze Relief" or some secondary relief opening on the sump pump line. If the line ever freezes or gets clogged/blocked, continuous running of the sump pump would cause pressure within the drain line with no where for the water to drain and create backpressure up the downspout line. Rather than capping the cleanout, I installed a drainage grate on the cleanout so in the event that the pipe freezes or gets clogged, the sump pump should create enough pressure for the water to reach the cleanout and still drain on the outside of the house and not back up into the sump pump basin and possibly flood the basement.
Additionally, unless the water on the sidewalk is from some other source other than the popup valve, I probably would have selected a different spot for the popup valve that was further away from the sidewalk as you wouldn't want continuous water bleeding onto the sidewalk depending on how often your sump pump runs. In cold weather, the water would freeze creating ice patches anytime the temperature goes below the freezing point.
Great video. Thanks. Having done this 10 years ago, and getting ready to do it again (new house), I’d make one recommendation: rather than marking multiple measurements on your stake to check grade, just slope a string above the trench matching your desired slope. Then you can move along the entire run and check for slope everywhere with a single line marked on a stick.
One other trick I’ll be using this time: dig a post hole under your pop up, line it with a fabric sock, and fill it with round stone. It will act as a small dry well and ensure your elbow drains quickly, to avoid freezing or attracting insects.
Thank you, thank you.
I wish every channel gave as much information as you do. You even credited the music which I was curious about.
03:20 wow this guy is on the next level when explaining stuff.
Thx!
it is also a good idea to put some gravel under and around the weep hole at the end of the pipe where the pop up emitter is to halp the water drain into the ground.
This video will give me a good start. I live in a tri level and i have to route mine from the front of the house, around the corner, and down the side into the backyard. Ive got a lot to figure out and a lot to dig!
Hopefully you aren't tackling the project when it is 100F outside. Might want to consider a 4" trencher. As long as you mark all your utilities to ensure you don't cut anything those trenchers can be worth every penny to rent.
I have many years selling drainage and waterproofing solutions, so I'll throw out some ideas and comments- First, there are exceptions to every rule and every yard will have its own particular variables, so there is not just one way to always do things. Everything about every yard should be considered to find the best solution for each yard and there is sometimes more than one acceptable way to skin a cat.
Having said that, here are a few of my thoughts regarding your video-
1- There should be a small drywell under the pop-up so water that is left in the pipe when the rain stops can drain, otherwise, there is a high chance that the sitting water will freeze in the winter and block the discharge. We take a post hole digger and dig down a minimum of 12" - 18" and fill with 1" pond stones, and sometimes we even dig deeper on long runs. Even with the drywell, the water will percolate down very slowly, especially if the soil has a high clay content. If it is possible the discharge will be more efficient if you can take it to daylight so residual water is never left in the pipe after rains, but that is not always possible with flat yards. You can also install an inline pop-up higher up the run (a few inches above the level of the pop-up that's at the end). Water should not remain there after rains and this will give the downspout water somewhere to discharge if the end of the line is blocked and water should not discharge there when the end of the line is open. If possible this should not be within 8-10' from the exterior wall to protect the house. Taping all joints with tile tape is a good idea as you suggest.
2- On the sump discharge, we usually just put an end cap on the 4" pipe with a 1.5" hole drilled in it and connect the sump discharge line there. Some kind of overflow on the sump line is a good idea in case the 4" pipe gets blocked.
3. In one of your previous videos you suggested extending the aluminum downspout out as an option. I would not recommend doing this as they so often have something fall on them or someone steps on them etc. and the downspout gets crushed and blocked. If you want to extend the downspout on the surface I would suggest using a pipe that is resilient to damage. I also would rather see them buried as surface pipes are tripping hazards unless they are set in garden areas where no one ever walks.
Dear Poonbeat, I look forward to your videos and channels.
Hopefully, in several years (if starting now), you will have 767,000 subscribers.
I bid you the best in your day job which you should keep.
@@eddyvideostar I will keep you in the loop. I appreciate your sincere encouragement. It was classy of you to offer it!
Can you come to my house and give me a hand? LOL 😆
You are a smart and practical dude. I am working to keep water away from my home in an area with lots of ledge. The diggng will not be easy but I am envious of what you did, and in a common sense way.
If he's so smart why isn't he using corrugated to DWV adapters instead of those expensive PVC and rubber couplings????
@@DiffEQ: Dear Diff, If you're so smart, why don't you have the ability to make videos, possess a channel, teach the community, and have 767,000 subscribers?
Nice job! I'm going to be installing one of these in my home here in Florida to keep my lanai from flooding.
Thanks for such a great video. everything looks well done. Two suggestions. Northerners need freeze relief at the house exit and for aesthetic's, do a minimalist french drain to dry well at the end of the line. The water can seep into the ground more efficiently. If that is a 24/7 365 sump line , a wet sidewalk is kinda off putting for property value. keep up the great work
The clean out section was a good idea.
Appreciated your explanation regarding corrugated vs. rigid PVC piping.
Appreciated your diagram, explanations of all the steps involved. Thank you.
Nice video !!
Here are a few things that I did different
I bought a roll of black plastic bags that were perforated, but still connected to dump the dirt onto. When I was finished, I still have a roll of bags that I can use for other jobs
I started connecting at the house to make certain everything fit before cutting anything
I set up the corrugated pipe a few days prior to digging so I could reroute the water and get rid of the mud before the digging started
For cleanout, I go to the pop-up end and shove a hose in there. I block the exiting water until I have 20-30 gallons sitting in the pipe, then I let it go all at once and it flushes the line like a toilet flush. I use a shopvac to pull out the water as it exits. That makes the flushing even more thorough.
This a fantastic video, great job. I also appreciate the slope calculations needed for proper installation. I can't wait to start a similar project like this one. bigFan of your videos!
You are very smart Scott just to see you i got tired but great work
Yeah, no need for the gym on trenching days 😅
I really enjoyed watching this video because I would like to connect my sump pump and a downspout together and re-direct the water in my backyard. I also like how neat everything was done!
Thanks Jeff, best of luck on your project and it makes for a great weekend workout 😁
@@EverydayHomeRepairs You are welcome, Scott! The first thing I have to do first though is finish working on replacing and leveling a laundry room floor in my home.
@@jeffthewhiff yeah I don't know if we will ever actually finish the list of To Do's 😉
Debris from the downspout can clog your pipe in a hurry
Great video! Always nice to see the process start to finish- and I appreciate you highlighting some of your challenges as well as your successes. I wouldn’t have thought to run a sheet of plastic down the entire length of the trench, that’s a really smart and simple solution to managing all of that fill!
Dear B Cad Doors: Unnecessary. It's not a French drain.
@@eddyvideostar It wasn't in the trench, just next to it for holding dirt while digging.
@@jasonfournier: Very good.
Great video. Thanks! But for the 11:44 section, I believe I would've started at the end of the trench and worked my way back to the house. Less time in the sun! I'm in the Houston area and most of year, that's definitely a consideration!
I bet! Thanks for the feedback 👍
Great video. Straight forward and easy to follow. Really helped to see the diagram and how you used a string to measure slope. Didn’t’t know how that was done. Now i can go out and check the actual slope of my seemingly flat yard.
👊 best of luck on the project!
I wish I could dig a trench that fast!!! 😁😜 🤣😂🤣😂🤣 Not even without lower back, hips and neck issues! Should we call you, The Flash? I watched from today's (11/7/2023) *DIY Guide To Installing Gutters.* Don't know if I'll need it, I'd have to measure flatness or slope, but there's ditch in front yard near the street for rain (we don't have city sewage or drainage) which I could trench to for front and back gutters. I'd do both on the same side, Y them together and let the gutters drain into the ditch. Thanks, Scott!
Your an excellent teacher
Thanks man. Nice reference for my rain garden project
Thank and we love your good Ideas !!!
I found a sinkhole beside my house about 4 foot deep and 5 foot wide. It was caused because the corrugated pipe from my down spout and sump pump became disconnected underground and the water was pooling up underground over the years. The only thing stopping someone from falling through the ground was a thin layer of grass, dirt and roots from some bushes.
Dang! Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for this well explained video. I have drain line from the backyard that wrap around the side of my house that has been fill with tree roots, so I am trying to muster up the courage to install a new drain line on the other side of the house, no trees at all, but it all under concrete driveway pad. 8-/ (I use 3 sump pumps every winter during storms FUN TIMES!)
If you haven't done the new drain line, I would recommend using PVC Schedule 40 to prevent any root infiltration.
@@emilytopacio Thanks! totally agree.
Nice job and thanks for sharing. You made that back breaking job look easy. Last autumn I did the same job but just 35' long and in my glacier gravel the rocks were a ball buster and took 5 days to dig just 35'. I still need to dig another 25' section but plan to rent a Dig Witch for that having learned my lesson. :) Bummer about your CATV cable. Thanks again!
Yeah, I should have called a little more attention to the amount of effort involved in digging trenches. You will sleep well after a day or 2 of manual digging.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes for sure. I envy your soil as mine is so full of rocks that every pickax or shovel strike hit a rock but very little dirt. After 3 hours each day my back was screaming for a chiropractor. :) Thanks again for making it look easy. Fingers crossed when I rent a Ditch-Witch that it goes easier.
love your video
its helpfull
i will need to watch few more times and will start this project myself
thank a lot
damien
twincity MN
You bet, best of luck on your project 👍
Nice work! Be careful in the wintertime though... It looks like you may end up with a semi-permanent icy/slick spot on the sidewalk during the right time of year.
For sure, I have a little more rerouting to do for the downspouts and then will monitor the frequency of the sump pump as I would expect the frequency of the sump pumping out water will reduce substantially and then that should reduce or eliminate water going on the sidewalk outside of when it is actually raining. We shall see 🤞
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Never had a house that required a sump pump before so lots I'm sure I'm not considering.
My coworker was cited for outflow pooling and freezing creating a road hazard. Did that elbow and popup freeze during winter?
Won’t all the dirt and debris from the gutter clog your pipe up?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes, the guy who installed my sump pump refused to do this for the reason of liability/lawsuits in that it would make the sidewalk wet
I installed a similar 20' separate drain, with pop-up near where my ground slopes away. I plan on putting a backup sump on this separate pvc drain. My only concern is during winter. The popup won't work, even though there is less likelihood of using the backup sump during winter. .... Just a suggestion.... At the end, where the popup is, I installed a PVC T, with one end of the T pointing up to the popup. The other end pointing straight down. I dig a hole about 4 feel below that T and filled it with pearock (surrounded by a drainage sleeve). That way, any water first goes.straigjt down, into the pearock sock. Should it fill up, then the rest of the water would comes up to the popup. Hope that makes sense
Northern state or not (I'm from Missouri and we get tons of freezing weather and ice etc.), you should have used PVC for just a downspout extension throughout the yard. That corrugated pipe will fill with shingle debri and bugs over time. They are a nightmare to clean out as well and sometimes you end up damaging them when cleaning them out and don't even realize it. Also, at any corrugated connection you should have used tile tape to seal it 100%. I saw you taped it at the pop up connection, but it would have been smart to tape it at your sump connection as well. Weeds and roots will grow right under those hose clamps. Either way, PVC works fine up north as well. Never had any issues with it freezing or breaking at all and it's a breeze to clean out with just a water hose. Corrugated will take a lance or "bullet head" on a pressure washer to get clean with quite a bit of effort compared to smooth wall PVC. You did a great job. It's just that I made the same mistake by using corrugated in the same manner for downspouts and regretted it after a year or 2. Now I only have to run a water hose down my PVC every 3-4 years and that's just to be safe.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
I used corex pipe on all my downspout runs, many having
Could you have used French drain tubing (open holes inserted in the tubing) to disburse the water through the down level trench you dug?
I am doing a 2 way connection for my sump ump discharge so in summer i can use sumpup water for gardening, wondering to see how your rubber connectors are working, I wanted to see if rubber connector is the best option or I should choose PEX and permanent, I live in alberta and winter is -40, so would like your opinion on rubber connectors for winter. Thank you
Watched all 5 in this series. I recall the first one saying you didn't want the sidewalk wet all the time, so what was the fix there? I also didn't catch how you decided which direction to go away from the house and how long to make the run.
Thanks for this great information. Any thoughts about installing a clean check backwater flow valve so you don't get any water back in your sump line?
Good video. The only thing missing is you should always call before you dig to avoid damaging utilities including cable electric gas sewer and water.
See 2:00. I assume "JULIE" is his local "call before you dig" utility location service. Quick web search tells me that "JULIE" is an acronym for "Joint Utility Locating Information for Excavators", seems to be primarily in use in Illinois.
Seems the main thing he missed is actually _calling_ the service. I guess it's a "do as I say, not as I do" thing. :)
@@harvey66616: Hello Julie.
Very thorough presentation! Thank you
Very nice complete video.
Thanks for the feedback!
Great job! I only had to go 16’ to a run off that goes to a storm sewer. I did 2 lines one for sump pump, other for downspout. I did the sump pump line in pvc drainage pipe 4”. The downspout was 4” corrugated. Both lines have a slotted drainage cover to keep out animals (rabbits, snakes, etc.). Fernco does make a reducer for the sump pump.....2 to 4” or 1 1/2 to 4”, this would have eliminated some of the glueing and fitting you did. Thanks....Jim
PS.....Does the 4” pvc fit into the 4” corrugated pipe? If so, than just warm up and use a large clamp, this would be a better connection (tape if necessary & then clamp). I’m in the Chicago area, and did this 17 years ago, and still working perfectly. I have 5 down spouts down & 1 sump pump.
Hey Jim, thanks for the feedback. Good question and I don't think the PVC will fit in the corrugated but not 100%. I have 5 more downspouts which need extended to get things where I would like them. Plenty of projects for this season 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I did all mine when the house was built and all are working perfectly, even after 17 years. Jim
I did a similar project years ago. I found that a direct connection from the sump pump to the pipe is a bad idea. If water cannot flow through the pipe, it can backup up into the basement. The pump will not be a to get it out. Better to have an "overflow" near the foundation. I wish I could provide a picture. I used a tee with an output higher, in case the underground one is clogged. Gives you a chance in a storm to see that the water is not flowing through the underground pipe. I have seen this happen in my setup if the end of the pipe is in a submerged pool of water due to flooding. It might not make sense that this would restrict the flow, but I cannot argue with what happens in my setup.
Great Video, Thanks. Just curious why you went out so far in you lawn. Looks like you sump works all the time making the sidewalk always wet. If you would have put it further back in the lawn (with less digging on you part), maybe the sump water would have absorbed into your lawn. I had this done by a landscaper on my lawn taking it under a sidewalk our to the curb. Done 7 years ago and is working great.
Nice job! Perhaps put a grated cap on the downspout clean out to get better flow. Also, if it should freeze over ( if you’re in the north) it allows back spill
I need to get something like this done. Get lots of rain here in Ohio during the spring and fall so the lawn gets a lot of pooling.
Nice video. I’m curious why don’t you use a 2 to 4 inch adapter directly?
Nice demo and explanation, Thanks! What are your concerns with freezing in the cold months?
I ended up moving the outlet further away from that sidewalk to ensure I didn't create a slip hazard in the winter.
I had to do that, same problem, pump dumping in the yard. I used a golf ball to check the drop, but I used PVC to run it from the house to the ditch we have out by the road, not sure if a trap well hold all the water we get in a down pour
Did you use any type of freeze protection device on your sump pump line? Does your sump pump line elbow have a hole in the bottom for drainage?
Great work on the planning and clean trench excavation. I really wish you did not use the corrugated black pipe for this and went PVC instead. The PVC is cleaner, less probe to clog and can be cleaned. The corrugated pipe will clog with organics and roof granules. Worse if you do not have gutter guards. I’ve been involved in lawsuits where this exactly happened.
On the PVC, you can use drainage rock, perforated pipe and landscape wrapping on the pipe to work as a french drain, which reduces how much runoff comes out the end of the pipe. Although in this case, that could be problematic with water percolating back to the basement.
On the popup emitter, NDS does not mention this, but you should put that slightly above grade and raise the sod up around it so it discharges into a local high spot. This prevents it from discharging into a pool during heavy rain as your work area settles.
Great tip in the plastic!!!
Is a sum pump required for the setup or is something you have and that is why you connect it to the pipe too.
I just watched your video and I want to share my experience with sump lines. I replaced mine about 4 years ago with schedule 40 pvc. We have a lot of minerals in our sump water so it needs to be as smooth as possible. My line drains into my storm sewers out front. About every 2 years I need to have line jetted out. And my sump runs 3 times a minute so I have a lot of water. Is everyone else in neighborhood doing what you are doing? I enjoy your videos keep them coming.
Hey Paul, your sump runs 3 times per minute all the time? Dang!
You need a larger chamber. You’ll be buying new pumps on the regular over the years at that 3 minute rate. French Drain Man will help
Sounds like my sisters house, dual sumps with battery backup and you hear the thing run about every 60 seconds. She's close to a lake.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs badly designed sump pit. Gonna burn your pump out. Thing is cycling too quick.
In Davenport Iowa discharge lines must not be within 10 feet of sidewalk or property lines. 👍for the video
Great video! Install a sump pump some time. I know a guy.
Thanks Chris, it's on the list 👍👍
Steel bar at 10:47 you speak about. I am looking for that tool and wonder what it is called and/or where I may be able to pick one up. Thanks in advance. Oh, by the way, great videos👍
Is that a public sidewalk the emitter drains on? Is that allowed? What if the water freezes and causes ice on the side walk?
I like your plan 👍🏼can you explain to me What is the the max crush weight for the corrugated pipe to fail?
Did you call 811 before digging to mark all lines?
Corrugated piping will collapse and fail at some point. By design it slows flow and trapes dirt/leaves. Use solid piping and don't worry about any "required" slope to ensure clean flushing. I've had to replace all the gutter corrugated drains on my lot dur to collapse or root intrusion. Solid pipes have been flawless.
Hey Barry, thanks for the feedback.
Would connecting lengths of solid pipe with rubber couplings not clamped allow for freeze-thaw expansion and contraction? Any small "leakage' would not be a concern outdoors.
Turbulence in the water from flowing over the ripples loosens up debris and helps it make its way out of the system. Not as efficient as Sched 40, but corex is cheaper and easier for the everyday weekend warriors to use.
Very well done buddy
16:43 Shouldn't you place some gravel and yard fabric / weed barrier around the area where the weep hole is? Seems that would also be a wonderful place for roots to get into and clog the drain.
Yeah, not a bad plan 👍 since it was right at the end I wasn’t too worried if I had to clean out in the future.
How as that big box store corrugated pipe held up? I want to do this but heard they’re very cheap and crush. Seems the only other option is the French drain man’s pipes but their freight cost is high. Have you had any issues with this pipe?
Using a sweep instead of a elbow will allow water to flow better. Also in case you have to clean out it’s easier to snake through.
Good point 👍
What happened in the winter? Do the pipe freeze
I recently moved into a house with a septic system and the previous owners were just a couple and all six of us caused a lot of backups. We did laundry every night and sometimes once during the day too. It was a lot of water going into the septic so we just ran the water through pvc pipe slowly getting bigger and bigger (starting with 1 1/4 inch pipe) then finally attached the pvc to a small flexible corrugated pipe and attached that to a longer perforated corrugated pipe that had a mesh wrapped around it and in between the mesh was some sort of styrofoam in place of gravel that I found at the Home Depot but I think I saw it at Lowe’s too. I attached a flexible pop up emitter to the end for overflow. As of about 2 months of using it, it works flawlessly! If it ever fails I still have the option to simply lift the hose attached to the washer out of the pvc pipe and place it back in the original spot. (I am down south so I can use the pvc pipe without having to worrying about freezing)
Excellent job!
Nice work man
Looks good. Idea where you came out of the house from your sump pump would a T work better so you might be able to have a better flush line? Thanks for sharing your video with us.
Good project, well done except call before you dig!
What is the name of that long plastic that you put the dirt on? I want to search for it for my job. Thanks for the videos!
What's the performance been like after a year now? Would you have done anything differently? Perhaps Perf pipe atleast towards the end, just because of how much water you have? Or maybe 2 pop ups based on the amount of water? Just trying to get a sense of what is needed. I have rentals as well. I had a guy do one of mine, I'm sure incorrectly too, but wanted to see what your thoughts are. Nice job, not really liking the black pipe at the house though.
Hey James, overall the performance has been great. I did need to change the location of the end popup as it was too close to the sidewalk especially in the winters. I rerouted the 4" corrugated running parallel with the sidewalk with about a 15' offset to allow the water to soak into my lawn as compared to going on the sidewalk. Best of luck on your project!
The little cut out on the bottom of the 90 degree pipe at the end, it’d be best to put gravel around it cuz it’ll get packed with dirt.
Why you didn’t take it to the curb ? I just had to install sub pump at my back door to avoid flooding in basement I ask about the curb because it right there and you wouldn’t have to deal with sidewalks issue due to water.
There may be a city ordinance prohibiting sump drainage into city gutters.
How is that connection between the sump pump rubber coupling and the corrugated pipe holding up? I had something similar at one point in time and could never get a good seal. It would always leak around it.
How did you cut / remove the sod? What tool? Thx
Great work but, the only question I have is why did you not get closer to the sidewalk like within 6” to 1’???
Good Day Sir,
I am having a green algae coming from my downspout (or sump pump) drain. Who should I contact to correct the issue? Plumber? Basic contractor? Any assistance you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
Neighbors on morning walk will appreciate the water in the area.
Sump Pump frequency should dramatically reduce soon then the majority of the water will come from downspout / rain.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs What's the frequency like in the winter? I believe you've mentioned you're in the midwest (and I've noticed the Illini shirts 🤢😛). If that sidewalk gets much use, I might be concerned about creating an icy patch.
Great series though! I'll have to rewatch when I get around to reworking my downspouts.
That would generate a repair warning here. We can't impinge on sidewalks and we're responsible for keeping them clear of ice. That would have to empty into a gutter or swale and not on the road.
Ya know folks if yer lot is graded correctly and yer basement has a gray water set up with everything waterproofed best as possible should be fine always build yer pad up
Just yank the sidewalks out. Easy fix. They're your sidewalk anyway. Nobody uses sidewalks anymore anyway. People walk their dogs in the middle of the street next to perfect good sidewalks.
Why did you use courgated pipe instead of pvc for the whole thing?
Just started watchin ur video. Super glad i actually watched first before asking in here why u didnt use PVC or if u even considered it lol smh
😁 yeah many like the PVC but I am confident with the corrugated. Time will tell 🤞
Endless battle of the PVC vs corrugated camps. I think either is just fine. PVC guys show bogus tests and corrugated guys make bogus claims. Don't think either is completely right or wrong.
If I live in a coastal area that I dont have to worry about freezing, do you think PVC is the best way to go? If so, what size?l typically?
Don't you need to allow for freezing and not completely connect sump pvc to corregated pipe so if corregated freezes or gets clogged water still exits sump pump?
Thanks for sharing... Nice job! Do you think there would be any problems with the corrugated pipe being on top of the grass assuming that it would be running in my own private back yard and that the slopping is appropriate? Thanks
Good work but, a real risk of flooding your basement when the corrugated pipe freezes. You need an opening at the sump pump connection to the corrugated, so if it freezes it will run over outside instead of inside. Locking it up tight like you did is a recipe for basement flooding.
what's stopping dirt or silt to build up in the corrugated pipe? shouldn't there be gravel or a silt screen?
How does that elbow with the weep hole keep working when the ground freezes? Won’t it stop draining and cause the pipe to freeze during an extended cold period?
You should have dry fitted your coupling before assembling it, so the lengths and alignment were correct. In addition, you should have attached the corrugated at the sump pump end then placed it in the trench and cut the far end to the correct length. Doing it that way would have eliminated the futzing around you had to do to fit the coupling to the sump pump outlet.
Clean work. I’d plan on extending that pop up to discharge on the other side of the sidewalk so the water falls onto the curb area along the road. If I was your neighbor and walked my dog it’d really annoy the crap outta me that the sidewalk was always wet. Otherwise, great execution.
Plus freeze in winter, making an ice/ slip hazard
Great video! Two questions: How long does corrugated pipe like that last - 10 years or more? I have a similar project to do, but I have more trees in my yard than you, so I worry about tree roots. Secondly, did you consider backfilling with gravel around the corrugated pipe about half way out from your house (like french drain style)? I’m considering something like this to avoid one single area of water expulsion at the site of the pop up, and prevent washout/erosion etc…Thanks for your feedback!
French drain style would work if you had gravel underneath a perforated pipe because the ground water would go into the pipe and be carried away as the water table rose in the ground. However, he's not at a low point in his yard so that would be overkill for what he's trying to do and might not accomplish anything. It would also release all that water into the trench and possibly erode the trench over time by doing that. Great for moving water out of low areas in your yard where you have issues, though.
My thought is that I would have terminated into a hole filled with large gravel underground rather than the pop-up emitter. It may overflow during a heavy storm, but everything is wet then anyway. It was a well done job though.
I might actually add another line of perforated running parallel to the side walk sitting on gravel to allow the majority of the water to just leach into the ground outside of large rain events. I will monitor how wet the sidewalk is for the next week or 2 and then make the plan from there. Thanks for the feedback!
I did both. I terminated to a T at the end of the drain. One end points straight up to the popup. The other pointed down to a 4 ft hole, drainage sock filled with pearock. Water will first go down. Should it completely fill up, then it would emit to the popup drain
@@louofm1 This sounds like what I need. Thanks for the notion!
@@DeadBeatDeeBo look up "drain sleeve". They sell it at home Depot for cheap. I dug the 4 ft hole right where the drain terminates (the T). I took some of that drain sleeve, tied a knot on one end and while holding it in the freshly dug hole, I filled it with pearock. I figured that would keep the pearock from filling with dirt and clay. As the rock goes in, it stretches to fill the hole. After it's filled with rock, tie the top too, and terminate your drain/T right above it You can't see a thing (except the pop-up) after you put your popup drain and the sod around it all
That discharge will ice or algae the sidewalk. I would have sent it to the left (in tree shadows, more in middle of yard, lower elevation). I'd also have rented a motorized trencher too. A little deeper would have been good too.
would u advise this for winter months?
I ended up pulling the discharge back away from the sidewalk a bit more to ensure we didn't have issues in the winter. 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs i thought about doing this but the length for me would be 20 feet. my only concern is would all the water freeze and build up underground in the winter
13:09 - did you call Miss Utility at 811 before digging? (I'm enjoying all your videos!)
I appreciate you taking the time to record, edit and share that video with us showing that kind of work can be done neatly and with very little damage to your lawn. I guess you have to be a homeowner to pay attention to that as unfortunately most contractors will dump the dirt on the lawn and leave the bare spot while telling you the grass will grow back. There is one thing that looked odd to me, and it could be my lack of knowledge of where you live. It appears to me you are pretty much dumping all that water on what looks like a pedestrian track/pathway. Is that what you are doing?
Whats wrong with dumping the water onto the street? Most of these neighborhoods have really good sewage.
Gosh nice job! I have something similar but paid a bunch to get done as I have clay soil. By doing this yourself how much did it cost?
Another great video. Can you explain what you did at the downspout. I see you attached the corrugated wye to the pipe. Am I correct to assume that a downspout adapter doesn't connect directly to the wye. Did I see you cut a small piece of corrugated pipe to connect the downspout adapter to the wye. Is this correct? Thanks again
Hey Paul, correct I had to cut a small "riser" of 4" corrugated to properly attach the downspout adapter to the wye pipe. Also I went back and used the corrugated pipe tape to seal the adapter, riser, and wye after the video. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks alot. Do you purchase the pipe tape at Depot or Lowes. I am in Canada and cant seem to find it. Also I see you primarily use corrugated pipe instead of pvc. You mentioned about the frost and how it can flex the pvc joints. I see plenty of snow and frost in my area so I plan to use corrugated pipe. Do you ever experience issues however with leaves or debris getting caught in the pipe.
How did you connect the wye to the 4" corrugated pipe? What tape is that?
Where did you buy the plastic sheeting? What exactly do i look for
Nice job.
Thx 👍
Pick and shovel! Nooooo wayyyyy! I'm going to rent a trencher!
Say bye bye to any and all utility lines you didn't realize existed. Ohhh wait ... 🙄
Do you have a check valve on the sump line to prevent a heavy rain from the gutter pushing water back into the basement?
I don't recall your location? Is this going to be a lawsuit if someone slips on the sidewalk in the winter? I realize there is value in having your own tools, but did you research the cost of renting a trencher? But thanks, I would like to do something similar.
I will be keeping an eye on the sidewalk and if we get into summer and the sidewalk is still wet from the sump pump discharge I will add 10-15' of perforated pipe running parallel to the sidewalk to leach the water into the ground opposed to running on the sidewalk. No trencher on this project but I have a bigger one coming up and I might rent a mini excavator.