I had been skipping dormant spray. Thanks for the informative video. I will definitely pick some up this evening, and hopefully I can have my garden in my hair in the next week or so! 😆
Thank you for showing the pruning sealer. I needed to buy some but couldn't remember what it was called for a the life of me 🙃I've never had issues any cane borers until this winter here. They seem to really like my Nye Bevan.
Congratulations to the winner! I'm in Calif. zone 10b and we start our pruning/dormant spraying in January. Your tutorial is spot on. Out here, we defoliate in order to force dormancy but because it's been so wet this past month, I've noticed the new growth is already showing signs of mildew and rust. Once it dries out a bit, I'll probably have to remove most of the new leaves again.😒
I was hoping that California would have a drier spring than last year. I visited in April hoping to see blooms and was so sad to find that blooms were pushed back with the deluge of rain received. Sending wishes for a dry spring!
Winter pruning is the most therapeutical task among all the rose care to me 😁. I feel the power comes through me and become hopeful and exhilarate. Is it weird 🤔? Anyway, thanks for another wonderful video and congrats to the drawing winner !
2:00 - may I ask you a question? Why don't you use industrially proven biologicals like Bacillus thuringiensis to supress insects? They are pretty effective and non-harmful to bees or fish. Same question about biological fungicides (Bacillus subtilis, Trichoderma spp.). I spent whole last year testing different strains of above mentioned biologicals in my garden and it's day and night difference when compared with things like neem oil or propyl alcohol. I wouldn't say that I had zero problems. But my biggest problem was in finding active (alive, good CFU) biologicals in consumer packaging (I had no intention of spending a fortune on canisters). But that's probably specific to my local market situation.
I used BT on my Supertunia for worms. I have been happy with Neem. I am a creature of habit and maybe that is why. For you BT use, are you spraying weekly, monthly, as needed when bugs are present? Let me know!
@eGeek @TheRoseGeek well, I'm in Europe and spider mites and aphids is my only serious threat among leaf insects (well, mites are not insects but anyway). I use BT as primary spray insecticide for 5-6 years. I spray May-June every fortnight then I spray only if needed. Since BT (and avermectin) doesn't kill eggs I repeat it in one week or so. Usually it is enough for me. Occasionally I use avermectin if infestation is big. Last year I started testing Metarhizium against soil dwelling larvae (maybugs and click-beetles) and Beauveria against aphids. First one was, I would say, 4 out 5, Beauveria was 2-3 out 5. Regarding fungal problems: I sprayed Trichoderma (on soil) and Bacillus subtilis (on leaves) every fortnight for the whole season. It is more than needed probably but it was my first year and I wished suppressing fungal problems as much as possible. This year I will probably reduce it. Both worked well, 4 out 5. I also noticed serious reduction in black spot. Generally it's not a heavy problem for me but I hate to see it early in the season. None of those biologicals are advertised specifically for it but I believe Trichoderma is just very good as suppressing anything trying to grow in wood mulch. I just see it growing underneath. I used chemicals only on two young roses (Tranquillity and Ascot). They came with mildew and clearly were susceptible to it. My biggest problem was not in finding right technique or schedule but in finding good biologicals. Local market is filled with BS. No wonder why people don't trust it. I have background in biotech (not related to agriculture) so I just used Petri dishes to check what grows out of those packets I see at local garden centre. I was so frustrated so I ended up buying some axenic cultures and growing my own Trichoderma, Metarhirium and Beauveria. Actually I had a lot of fun 🙂 This year I already started testing microbial fertilizers (Azotobacter and Beijerinckia so far). It's still early for my climate but I want to be prepared...
@@TheRoseGeekOn powdery mildew (Podosphaera spp.): Search for "In Search of Soil #15 - Dr. Gary Harman - Trichoderma" here on RUclips. This is the man behind most ubiquitous (at least in the US) Trichoderma strain T-22 which is used to control pathogenic soil fungi. This strain was not tested specifically on roses but it works mostly by outcompeting pathogens (it grows very fast) in soil no matter what's the crop. Works best in wet climates like yours' in presence of cellulose sources like mulch, straw, old leaves, etc.
I haven’t. My thought is that they are sleepy and may not root well. Have you tried? I probably should try just to know for sure. I will do that this week 🥰
Also I forgot to ask I was going back to your video do you or can you use dormant oil on panicle hydrangeas? I was just wondering for scale and bugs and stuff. I also only get cane borer on my limelights so just wondering if that might help or the sealer you use? Thanks again
I get cane borers on my limelights. There should be no reason that you can't use it on your hydrangea also. Make sure you seal the tips of your hydrangea after you trim them. That will help!
Can i use dormant oil after my rose started flushing out? I didnt know if it had to be completely dormant or not? Its starting to bud here in zone 6. Thanks
I use it throughout the season. Just make sure the temps are between 40-90 degrees. If you leave the leaves on, just make sure you get the undersides also.
I had been skipping dormant spray. Thanks for the informative video. I will definitely pick some up this evening, and hopefully I can have my garden in my hair in the next week or so! 😆
HAHAHAH YES!!! That made me laugh. Thank you for that friend.
Thank you for showing the pruning sealer. I needed to buy some but couldn't remember what it was called for a the life of me 🙃I've never had issues any cane borers until this winter here. They seem to really like my Nye Bevan.
So glad you saw it in the video. I typically only seal canes larger than a pencil. I hope it works for you
I was bitten by the rose bug last year, but this is my first year pruning and your video is incredibly helpful! Thank you!
So glad you enjoyed the video! I can’t wait to share blooms with you this spring Rose Bud!
Congratulations to the winner! ❤This video is really very helpful.
Thank you so much Sarmishtha! Sending wishes for an early bloom for you.
Congratulations to the winner! I'm in Calif. zone 10b and we start our pruning/dormant spraying in January. Your tutorial is spot on. Out here, we defoliate in order to force dormancy but because it's been so wet this past month, I've noticed the new growth is already showing signs of mildew and rust. Once it dries out a bit, I'll probably have to remove most of the new leaves again.😒
I was hoping that California would have a drier spring than last year. I visited in April hoping to see blooms and was so sad to find that blooms were pushed back with the deluge of rain received. Sending wishes for a dry spring!
Winter pruning is the most therapeutical task among all the rose care to me 😁. I feel the power comes through me and become hopeful and exhilarate. Is it weird 🤔? Anyway, thanks for another wonderful video and congrats to the drawing winner !
Love that! I agree with you. I am so hopeful for the future when I am in the garden. 🪴
2:00 - may I ask you a question? Why don't you use industrially proven biologicals like Bacillus thuringiensis to supress insects? They are pretty effective and non-harmful to bees or fish. Same question about biological fungicides (Bacillus subtilis, Trichoderma spp.). I spent whole last year testing different strains of above mentioned biologicals in my garden and it's day and night difference when compared with things like neem oil or propyl alcohol. I wouldn't say that I had zero problems. But my biggest problem was in finding active (alive, good CFU) biologicals in consumer packaging (I had no intention of spending a fortune on canisters). But that's probably specific to my local market situation.
I used BT on my Supertunia for worms. I have been happy with Neem. I am a creature of habit and maybe that is why. For you BT use, are you spraying weekly, monthly, as needed when bugs are present? Let me know!
@eGeek @TheRoseGeek well, I'm in Europe and spider mites and aphids is my only serious threat among leaf insects (well, mites are not insects but anyway). I use BT as primary spray insecticide for 5-6 years. I spray May-June every fortnight then I spray only if needed. Since BT (and avermectin) doesn't kill eggs I repeat it in one week or so. Usually it is enough for me. Occasionally I use avermectin if infestation is big.
Last year I started testing Metarhizium against soil dwelling larvae (maybugs and click-beetles) and Beauveria against aphids. First one was, I would say, 4 out 5, Beauveria was 2-3 out 5.
Regarding fungal problems: I sprayed Trichoderma (on soil) and Bacillus subtilis (on leaves) every fortnight for the whole season. It is more than needed probably but it was my first year and I wished suppressing fungal problems as much as possible. This year I will probably reduce it. Both worked well, 4 out 5. I also noticed serious reduction in black spot. Generally it's not a heavy problem for me but I hate to see it early in the season. None of those biologicals are advertised specifically for it but I believe Trichoderma is just very good as suppressing anything trying to grow in wood mulch. I just see it growing underneath. I used chemicals only on two young roses (Tranquillity and Ascot). They came with mildew and clearly were susceptible to it.
My biggest problem was not in finding right technique or schedule but in finding good biologicals. Local market is filled with BS. No wonder why people don't trust it. I have background in biotech (not related to agriculture) so I just used Petri dishes to check what grows out of those packets I see at local garden centre. I was so frustrated so I ended up buying some axenic cultures and growing my own Trichoderma, Metarhirium and Beauveria. Actually I had a lot of fun 🙂
This year I already started testing microbial fertilizers (Azotobacter and Beijerinckia so far). It's still early for my climate but I want to be prepared...
@@TheRoseGeekOn powdery mildew (Podosphaera spp.): Search for "In Search of Soil #15 - Dr. Gary Harman - Trichoderma" here on RUclips. This is the man behind most ubiquitous (at least in the US) Trichoderma strain T-22 which is used to control pathogenic soil fungi. This strain was not tested specifically on roses but it works mostly by outcompeting pathogens (it grows very fast) in soil no matter what's the crop. Works best in wet climates like yours' in presence of cellulose sources like mulch, straw, old leaves, etc.
Kimberly have you ever tried to prop any of these end of winter canes? 💐
I haven’t. My thought is that they are sleepy and may not root well. Have you tried? I probably should try just to know for sure. I will do that this week 🥰
@@TheRoseGeek I haven’t but I’m definitely going to. It can’t hurt💐
Спасибо Вам за видео.
У Вас очень красиво!
Спасибо за просмотр!
What if you have some older larger canes and don't see any nodes. If you clip too far above a node, will that node not grow ?
It is best to find a node and cut above that.
All seasons is just going to happen in my area😢💐
I can find neem oil concentrate though
Whatever you can find will be fine. Have you tried Amazon?
@@TheRoseGeek not willing to wait another few weeks plus they NEVER deliver to us.. frustrating 💐
Also I forgot to ask I was going back to your video do you or can you use dormant oil on panicle hydrangeas? I was just wondering for scale and bugs and stuff. I also only get cane borer on my limelights so just wondering if that might help or the sealer you use? Thanks again
I get cane borers on my limelights. There should be no reason that you can't use it on your hydrangea also. Make sure you seal the tips of your hydrangea after you trim them. That will help!
Can i use dormant oil after my rose started flushing out? I didnt know if it had to be completely dormant or not? Its starting to bud here in zone 6. Thanks
I use it throughout the season. Just make sure the temps are between 40-90 degrees. If you leave the leaves on, just make sure you get the undersides also.
I didn't see the winner announcement. Did I miss it?
Hi Barbara! It was in the first few seconds. I didn’t recognize the name.
Do you just do the dormant horticultural spray once a year?
I actually use it through the season after each time I cut back the roses (after each bloom cycle).