great video, especially showing the original testing documents. I have a Master 2500 model built in 1978 and it is a really good machine. guess I should show mine a little love also.
A really nice condition lathe for it's age. I was a little surprised going for the Kero wash though as its part of a regular service really only in head stocks that have an internal clutch. The discoloration is only oxidation. May I suggest that if you change the brand of oil you will have a lot less oxidation. When I was maintaining CNC machines that would run for 3 shifts I found brands like Shell and Haughton were not good oxidation wise. The best results were with Fuchs hydraulic oil. The tests always came back better and you could see the difference. Getting the old girl to machine parallel again shouldn't be to hard chances are its parallel to the long axis it has just tweaked the center height in an angular fashion of the head stock (Nose High). A bit of shimming under the head stock end between the stand and machine should sort it. It looks nose high. Easy way to tell is micro adjust the tool height and you will see what way it is pointing. Of course if the bed is bent in one spot say the place where you lifted it you could pull it down again gently via a single clamp point at the lift spot through to the swarf tray. Put a clock on it and test for spring then go to full spring and leave it for a day with the ends unbolted. That should settle it. If the spring is more than the error dont go to full spring just creep up on it whilst its always being measured by a clock. I have probably fixed 20 odd machines with this error over my career. Some bend a lot easier than others.
Thanks for the comment and advice. After reading your comments I will change oil brands when I empty the current drum, which should be in about 6 months or so. I did the kero spa treatment to clean out the headstock, there's not much room in there to swab it out with towels. It did work and I now have a clean headstock. I'm planning a deep dive on this lathe for next year and I will take your advice in hand and that will be included in that project. Thank you for sharing your thoughts, they are very much appreciated. Regards Steve O
@dazaspc @theoutbackshed I have similar experience with the hydraulic oil in lathe use. I can't remember which machining forum had a discussion topic about oil grades lathe use. There was praise for the hydraulics oil properties that fully correspond to headstock lubrication. I also use the oil on lathe bead, as well as on other sliding surfaces.
What a beautiful machine! I’m going to order a gallon of the fluid film. I’ve used it in spray form for various things but I’ve been looking for a good storage solution for my lathe and milling machine. I am so fearful of rust getting to my precious machines. I’ve been using way oil and coating them heavily, but it seems to always find its way to the base and chip tray. I have to say, I truly enjoy your content. You clearly know how to operate and care for such equipment. Thanks for sharing your expertise! 🙏 Cheers 🍻
When I put the machine into storage Fluid Film was not available. I cleaned the machine thoroughly to remove all oil traces then applied several coats of Turtle Wax, then applied a final coat without polishing it in. This turned powdery over time but certainly kept the oxygen at bay. I do like the Fluid Film in the paste form, the spray cans contain a propane repellent which if it doesn't flash off before it hits the metal it will act as a dilutant. Another product I often use in woodworking is G15, this is a very good product and you should read the SDS before using it. Cheers.
Thanks for the comment Tony. Life was very busy during those years, the shed was in the background and all packed up in crates. I built a new shed when life quietened down and that now is my focus.
Hi, just wondering what was the spray lubricant you where using when parting off the washers? I noticed that some of the quadrant plate gears appeared to be phenolic resin sheet, is that the case? If so was that original to the lathe or did you make up the set yourself? Would love to own a Colchester for my home workshop but could never afford or justify the cost, my wife certainly wouldn't be to pleased. Great maintenance regime, something I've got to get into the habit of doing. Cam
Hi, and thanks for the comments. The cutting foam is Excision XDP 905, here's the link. www.machineryhouse.com.au/s078 I have used the brush applicator for parting and had very good results. In this video I tried the spray foam and really liked it, I think I'll switch to this for big parting as its easier to get the lubricant to the bottom of a deep groove. You are correct, two of the quadrant gears are phenolic. These are standard and came with the lathe when I bought it. When I first visited Colchester in 1984 I bought the optional great sets for imperial and module, these are all metal gears. Cheers, Steve O
Hi Steve, that was an excellent video. Did you end up buying a toe jack because if not Vevor currently have the 2.5 tonne unit selling for $58 delivered. Mine arrived today 01/08/24. I was going to make one but at that price why would I bother, but I will be extra cautious using it as I doubt it meets Australian standards. That lathe looks and sounds like new but I guess that’s what you expect when you buy quality. Can I ask why you purchased a Tool Master lathe when you have the Colchester? Thanks, Stuart. Canberra.
Thanks for the comment. No, I haven't bought a toe jack yet, it's still on my list. The Colchester is running as well as it has ever run, certainly as accurate as it was when new. It has been looked after and well maintained, I doubt that there would be an original one left in the world that would be as good. I bought the Toolmaster because I wanted a bigger heavier lathe, I would have liked a Colchester Mascot but they are price prohibitive. Even the Jesco Major which for all intents and purposes is the same machine, is also too expensive. I assessed the Toolmaster as being the best of the offerings from Taiwanese manufacturers for the size I wanted. I am very happy with it and it performs very well. I am building up a good collection of tooling for it and I expect to start a new project shortly to build Tailstock Chucks. Keep watching! By the way, I enjoy your channel and 'm a subscriber. Cheers SteveO
@@theoutbackshed Well bugger me, it’s a small world. I hope to have a video out soon with my new to me Colchester Triumph 2000 which I hope to finish installing today. Thanks for subscribing to my channel. Stu. Ps, where are you located.
Not a Colchester….. but a Taiwanese clone. Similarly in storage from about 2000 to this year. Ditto for a brand new 18” x 6” surface grinder. The lathe is in extremely good condition (greased, oiled, covered). Your Colchester looks like new 👍 That protective goop you are using is the ants pants… I’ve always used lanolin based preservatives… bugger to get off after long storage though 😱 Thoroughly enjoyed your vid., and I appreciate the extra time and effort you put into producing it. Thank you, Robert (Sydney)
great video, especially showing the original testing documents. I have a Master 2500 model built in 1978 and it is a really good machine. guess I should show mine a little love also.
You give new meaning to the term: "It's a clean machine."
Thanks for the comment, much appreciated. Cheers SteveO
great video, especially showing the original testing documents. I have a Master 2500 model built in 1978 and it is a really good machine. guess I should show mine a little love also.
Thanks for the comment, like my lathe, a 1978 master would be difficult to get parts for.
Gday, the lathe is in as new condition and a true credit to you, great job mate, cheers
Thanks Matty, I appreciate your comments.
A really nice condition lathe for it's age. I was a little surprised going for the Kero wash though as its part of a regular service really only in head stocks that have an internal clutch. The discoloration is only oxidation. May I suggest that if you change the brand of oil you will have a lot less oxidation. When I was maintaining CNC machines that would run for 3 shifts I found brands like Shell and Haughton were not good oxidation wise. The best results were with Fuchs hydraulic oil. The tests always came back better and you could see the difference. Getting the old girl to machine parallel again shouldn't be to hard chances are its parallel to the long axis it has just tweaked the center height in an angular fashion of the head stock (Nose High). A bit of shimming under the head stock end between the stand and machine should sort it. It looks nose high. Easy way to tell is micro adjust the tool height and you will see what way it is pointing. Of course if the bed is bent in one spot say the place where you lifted it you could pull it down again gently via a single clamp point at the lift spot through to the swarf tray. Put a clock on it and test for spring then go to full spring and leave it for a day with the ends unbolted. That should settle it. If the spring is more than the error dont go to full spring just creep up on it whilst its always being measured by a clock. I have probably fixed 20 odd machines with this error over my career. Some bend a lot easier than others.
Thanks for the comment and advice. After reading your comments I will change oil brands when I empty the current drum, which should be in about 6 months or so. I did the kero spa treatment to clean out the headstock, there's not much room in there to swab it out with towels. It did work and I now have a clean headstock. I'm planning a deep dive on this lathe for next year and I will take your advice in hand and that will be included in that project.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts, they are very much appreciated. Regards Steve O
@dazaspc @theoutbackshed I have similar experience with the hydraulic oil in lathe use. I can't remember which machining forum had a discussion topic about oil grades lathe use. There was praise for the hydraulics oil properties that fully correspond to headstock lubrication. I also use the oil on lathe bead, as well as on other sliding surfaces.
Okay, I am off now to do some maintenance on my lathe, you have shamed me into it.:)
nice lathe...great that you are looking after it so well.
Thanks
Very interesting and such a great machine in fine shape. How about a short tour of your full "shed" and machines?
Thanks for the comment. I am planning Deep Dives on all of the lathes and mill, with some detailed specials on other machines you haven't seen yet.
What a beautiful machine! I’m going to order a gallon of the fluid film. I’ve used it in spray form for various things but I’ve been looking for a good storage solution for my lathe and milling machine. I am so fearful of rust getting to my precious machines. I’ve been using way oil and coating them heavily, but it seems to always find its way to the base and chip tray.
I have to say, I truly enjoy your content. You clearly know how to operate and care for such equipment. Thanks for sharing your expertise! 🙏
Cheers 🍻
When I put the machine into storage Fluid Film was not available. I cleaned the machine thoroughly to remove all oil traces then applied several coats of Turtle Wax, then applied a final coat without polishing it in. This turned powdery over time but certainly kept the oxygen at bay. I do like the Fluid Film in the paste form, the spray cans contain a propane repellent which if it doesn't flash off before it hits the metal it will act as a dilutant. Another product I often use in woodworking is G15, this is a very good product and you should read the SDS before using it. Cheers.
Very good video.
Thanks, glad you liked it
Very educational video. thank you very much, Paul from Florida, USA
Glad it was helpful!
Enjoyed your flush out process of the headstock gearbox. You must of had itchy finger days in those sixteen years......Tony
Thanks for the comment Tony. Life was very busy during those years, the shed was in the background and all packed up in crates. I built a new shed when life quietened down and that now is my focus.
Hi, just wondering what was the spray lubricant you where using when parting off the washers?
I noticed that some of the quadrant plate gears appeared to be phenolic resin sheet, is that the case? If so was that original to the lathe or did you make up the set yourself?
Would love to own a Colchester for my home workshop but could never afford or justify the cost, my wife certainly wouldn't be to pleased. Great maintenance regime, something I've got to get into the habit of doing.
Cam
Hi, and thanks for the comments. The cutting foam is Excision XDP 905, here's the link. www.machineryhouse.com.au/s078
I have used the brush applicator for parting and had very good results. In this video I tried the spray foam and really liked it, I think I'll switch to this for big parting as its easier to get the lubricant to the bottom of a deep groove.
You are correct, two of the quadrant gears are phenolic. These are standard and came with the lathe when I bought it. When I first visited Colchester in 1984 I bought the optional great sets for imperial and module, these are all metal gears.
Cheers, Steve O
Good one . I will be making a new solid base for my AL960 lathe soon as the standard one flexes too much . Cheers 👍
Thanks for the comment, I shall look forward to watching that build.
Hi Steve, that was an excellent video. Did you end up buying a toe jack because if not Vevor currently have the 2.5 tonne unit selling for $58 delivered. Mine arrived today 01/08/24. I was going to make one but at that price why would I bother, but I will be extra cautious using it as I doubt it meets Australian standards. That lathe looks and sounds like new but I guess that’s what you expect when you buy quality.
Can I ask why you purchased a Tool Master lathe when you have the Colchester? Thanks, Stuart. Canberra.
Thanks for the comment. No, I haven't bought a toe jack yet, it's still on my list. The Colchester is running as well as it has ever run, certainly as accurate as it was when new. It has been looked after and well maintained, I doubt that there would be an original one left in the world that would be as good.
I bought the Toolmaster because I wanted a bigger heavier lathe, I would have liked a Colchester Mascot but they are price prohibitive. Even the Jesco Major which for all intents and purposes is the same machine, is also too expensive. I assessed the Toolmaster as being the best of the offerings from Taiwanese manufacturers for the size I wanted. I am very happy with it and it performs very well. I am building up a good collection of tooling for it and I expect to start a new project shortly to build Tailstock Chucks. Keep watching!
By the way, I enjoy your channel and 'm a subscriber.
Cheers SteveO
@@theoutbackshed Well bugger me, it’s a small world. I hope to have a video out soon with my new to me Colchester Triumph 2000 which I hope to finish installing today. Thanks for subscribing to my channel. Stu. Ps, where are you located.
Not a Colchester….. but a Taiwanese clone.
Similarly in storage from about 2000 to this year.
Ditto for a brand new 18” x 6” surface grinder.
The lathe is in extremely good condition (greased, oiled, covered).
Your Colchester looks like new 👍
That protective goop you are using is the ants pants… I’ve always used lanolin based preservatives… bugger to get off after long storage though 😱
Thoroughly enjoyed your vid., and I appreciate the extra time and effort you put into producing it.
Thank you,
Robert
(Sydney)
Thanks for the comments Robert. The lathe is a Colchester as verified by the brochures. I agree with you on the Fluid Film.
@@theoutbackshed
Yep… I meant that my 960 B is a clone 🤣🤣
You got me there....
Nice job nice lathe thank you, 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the comment.
I wish my 1944 Colchester still looked like that
Thanks
New subscriber 👍
Welcome aboard!
@@theoutbackshed Thanks 😊
great video, especially showing the original testing documents. I have a Master 2500 model built in 1978 and it is a really good machine. guess I should show mine a little love also.