Thanks again Rob. Learned new flash compensation stuff again. BTW, folks, I have been shooting 35mm and some med format, plus digital, for 65 years and still learn new stuff. Stay open minded.
Thank you Rob!! For years I cannot figure out why I cannot correctly expose my subject in shadows using TTL or TTL fp mode, and now I know why. Thanks again Rob.
Vow! Excelent explanation. This is the type of tutorials i really love from you Rob. Down to earth with the " normal" gear that a lot of us have also. Keep going.
Just discovered your postings, and I have to say yours are far and away the most informative. I use a Pen F so am able to adjust settings as I follow along, but more importantly, I now understand what the camera is doing and the why. Keep it up!
Now I know what that spot meter check box means for my EM1MkII. Once again thanks for providing your thought process for an interior shot using Olympus.
Wow! Rob, you are a real magician with the camera! Thanks a million for your effort to make such wonderful videos and your willingness to shre them with us and to make new magicians with Olympus cameras.
Superb! This was like the the Sixth Sense movie for me in that I understood only in the last few secs - after the final shot - as to why you selected the manual mode at the start 😊
Brilliant tutorial. I didn't realise that you had to change another setting to make spot metering work under the focal point. Also I have been wondering about my exposure looking too bright even when it is showing underexposed - I think I may have had that boost on.
Thanks for this Rob. You just explained away handling a problem which i knew existed but had no idea the camera was able to deal with! Really great full thanks.
Thanks - Well done as always! I must admit, in "exposing for the windows" for real estate, I almost always use TTL flash in manual mode in the M5 Mark II. BUT, occasionally I use Auto Mode and TTL flash -- yipes, the heresy! -- metering first in a medium dark area. Works pretty well if no object is too close to the lens, and if there is either poor scenery outside or no windows at all.
@@RobTrek Thanks! Yes, that is best for sure. You know what, though? When I am lazy/in a hurry, I use the auto to get much better exposure of rooms that are away in the distance from the room being shot. For example, say you are shooting a kitchen and through the far doorway is the dining room; even though the dining room is fairly well lit, it will usually come out too dark in the distance (when viewing the subject kitchen image). Rather than taking the time to put a remote flash or plug-in flood in the dining room example, I just use Auto (yes, I know it is only widening the aperture and making other slight adjustments), but like I said, I am often lazy. LAZINESS, after all, is the Father of invention.
Shall be steering members of my club lighting workshop to this,such a good explanation..hope it works for those not fortunate enough to own Olly gear ..lol
In one of your videos, you were talking about batteries not all created equally. I think your'e right about that. I have been doing some testing with Batmax batteries bought from Amazon in Canada. What I did was to completely empty the battery by leaving the camera ON. After some time, it said "battery empty" I then started charging it while monitoring the parameters. When the charger decided that the battery was full, it was at 1780 ma. Normally it should have been at 2000 ma. I'll check another one of the same model tomorrow. I think 1780 ma is good for a Chinese battery, anyway they don't cost a lot. I'll also check an original Oly battery just for fun.
Of course, we have to take into account that part of the charging power was disipated as heat. We then have to design another way of measuring to complete the process. I'm thinking of using the same battery to power something and measure how many maH are output by the battery before it is empty. Is that what you wanted to try, Rob?
Yes, I used a USB mah meter connected between the batter and a light. The Olympus 1180mah battery drained roughly 1100+ everytime. Generics, regardless of mah ratings, drained only about 700-800mah. I used this one: amzn.to/37hO9Vs
Nice job on the video. I find that my PEN-F behaves a little weird in flash mode. I've noticed that in SLOW sync, sometimes the flash will not even fire. Then I'll change the ISO higher and it will enable the flash to fire, then I'll drop it down and it will fire again, but a few shots later it just stops firing. Something is influencing the way is decides to fire or not. In general I find the PEN-F to be a poor flash performer compared to say Nikon, and that's accounting for when it DOES fire. Maybe I just need to keep fiddling....
Really good I will be trying this one myself. Hope you are going to do some more tutorials soon. Have you done any tutorials on the Godox TT350o general use menu use etc? I found one for HSS but not a general TT350o walkthrough. Since it seems to be getting a popular flash now some more tutorials with it would be good.
Thanks. There are a lot of tips in this video, though not exactly what you are looking for. ruclips.net/video/pbBSXxfqUJs/видео.html I may do another one without using a trigger.
Hi Rob, Great video as always. A question came to mind - why not just focus on the flowers all the time and adjust the exposure comp so that only a little of the orange appears? in other words, is spot metering really necessary if the goal is to [almost] eliminate the orange over-range area?
That wouldn't work when using flash. You need to adjust the exposure for the window first, then move the spot meter back to the flower. Then the camera will properly fire the flash to expose for the flowers since it's still in ttl mode without changing the exposure for the windows.
Hi Rob, terrific tutorials. I think Im doing something wrong here. I have EM1 M2 and am trying to link highlight spot meter. Went to E/ticked Spot Meter high but notice that the black circle stays in the middle when I move focus point. Should I have pressed something else? I am trying to take photos of birds in trees and thought the high spot meter maybe better as conditions so dark. Many thanks for all your help.
Hi Rob, this is the very first video that I have seen on your channel and it give me a feeling of a down-to-earth photographer without the usual lens talk. I have been checking back your channel for relevant learning to myself and thanks so much for the great videos, it teaches me much and I now use my PEN EPL6 much more effectively! I'm personally rather annoyed by my camera's file naming: I cannot combine the photos from the previous batch of shoots into a folder because they all have the same name. I just overcome this and shared it freely how I did this in my most recent 5-minute video. If you don't mind, give it a try. It's a free script for renaming files, especially designed for renaming photos. Would appreciate your feedback if any.
Thanks. Go into the Record/Erase menu and change File Name from "Reset" to "Auto". That should keep the file name counter going so you don't have duplicates.
Thanks. Depends on how much brighter the highlights are. 1. I'd probably just increase the aperture. 2. Failing that, an ND filter. 3. Failing that, I'd need a more powerful flash for HSS. 4. Failing that, I'd add steps 1-3. 5. Faling all that, then start doubling up on steps 1-3. 6. Failing all that, start looking into 600@ studio strobes.
Rob Off the topic,your advise on shoulder bag (especially for mft camera gear) in one of your older videos was the swiss gear zink bag. Is that still your thoughts as i saw some of these bags available on ebay and thought of buying one as it seems to be excactly what i need.
Yes, I still love this bag. It's only real weakness is the overall rigidity is not as good as other bags. But it's a quality bag and for $20 an excellent value. I am looking for a new bag about that size with more rigidity, but haven't found an affordable option. I'm looking at this one: amzn.to/3aCjTa4
Yes, but they have different uses. For pure exposure, the hi/sh allows you to see where in the image it's happening. I rarely use the histogram. However, the histogram gives you better overview of the exposure and can be broken down into each color channel.
Excellent tutorial. Please make a video tutorial about recording a vlog indoors with ambient light... without special lights...if that's even possible.
1:50] "This is not a very pleasing picture, or anything like what I can see with my naked eye." Yes, true enough, but what your naked eye is actually seeing is a *very* badly lit room, and nothing anyone would ever actually would want to take a picture of. Point being is that we as photographers in this challenging setting need to beat the natural setting - by a lot.
Thanks again Rob. Learned new flash compensation stuff again.
BTW, folks, I have been shooting 35mm and some med format, plus digital, for 65 years and still learn new stuff. Stay open minded.
Glad to help!
Thank you Rob!! For years I cannot figure out why I cannot correctly expose my subject in shadows using TTL or TTL fp mode, and now I know why. Thanks again Rob.
Glad this helped. Thanks.
Vow! Excelent explanation. This is the type of tutorials i really love from you Rob. Down to earth with the " normal" gear that a lot of us have also. Keep going.
Thanks, Leon.
Just discovered your postings, and I have to say yours are far and away the most informative. I use a Pen F so am able to adjust settings as I follow along, but more importantly, I now understand what the camera is doing and the why. Keep it up!
Awesome, thank you!
Now I know what that spot meter check box means for my EM1MkII. Once again thanks for providing your thought process for an interior shot using Olympus.
Handy feature. Thanks.
Glad to see this and learned some good camera operations please do more of this.
Thanks, Brad. Will do.
Wow! Rob, you are a real magician with the camera! Thanks a million for your effort to make such wonderful videos and your willingness to shre them with us and to make new magicians with Olympus cameras.
Thanks, Oto.
Excellent video. I like the feature of linking metering to the focus point.
Thank you!
Nice to see things moved on, set it to what you want to see and then tell it what to fix
Thank you, iDatus.
Great explation. The last photos, in which you meter for the window and the rest is more dark are beautiful, promoting a sensation of mystery.
Thank you, Sonia.
I think a tutorial doesn't get any better than this, absolutely great. Thank you Rob.
Thanks, Michael.
Great information. Thanks for the effort you put into explaining this so clearly.
Glad it was helpful!
Again a masterclass tutorial, Rob. Very well explained, thanks you.
Thank you, Plato.
Superb! This was like the the Sixth Sense movie for me in that I understood only in the last few secs - after the final shot - as to why you selected the manual mode at the start 😊
Thanks!
Brilliant explanation! It was so easy to follow and understand and it was a pleasure to wach this video! Thanks Rob!
Thanks, Zoltan.
Another excellent and informative video presented in a very user-friendly way.
Thank you,, Hue.
Very instructive and excellent video. Thanks a lot for partizipating your knowledge! Always good light, greetings from germany.
Thanks. Glad to help.
Wow this was a very advanced topic, I don't know how I could figure it out by myself without the tutorial !! Thanks.
Thanks, Roman. Easy once you know how!
Very good explanations. Thanks Rob.
Thanks, Michel.
Brilliant tutorial. I didn't realise that you had to change another setting to make spot metering work under the focal point. Also I have been wondering about my exposure looking too bright even when it is showing underexposed - I think I may have had that boost on.
Thanks, Barbie. It's the little things, isn't it?
Thanks for this Rob. You just explained away handling a problem which i knew existed but had no idea the camera was able to deal with! Really great full thanks.
Thanks, Andy.
Hi Rob, you know that I shoot Fuji cameras (I only have one LOL), but I always watch your videos and always learn something. Thank you.
Thanks. I should try this with my Fuji and Panasonics.
Excellent as always. Simple and easy to understand, but extremely useful. Thanks Rob, cheers!
Thank you!
Finally had an opportunity to try this at home today. Worked great! Thanks for the knowledge shared, Rob.
Cheers
Glad to help. Thanks, Bryce.
Omg, that was quite a challenge. Thanks a lot for the explanation. Very helpful.
Thanks, alborada.
Brilliant video rob .....pretty amazing to a novice photographer like me. Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks, Paul!
Rob, you've really excelled yourself with this one. Fantastically useful. Thank you, Rick
Thanks, Rick.
Wonderfully demonstrated. Thank you,
You're very welcome!
Thanks - Well done as always!
I must admit, in "exposing for the windows" for real estate, I almost always use TTL flash in manual mode in the M5 Mark II. BUT, occasionally I use Auto Mode and TTL flash -- yipes, the heresy! -- metering first in a medium dark area. Works pretty well if no object is too close to the lens, and if there is either poor scenery outside or no windows at all.
Thanks. I usually shoot TTL and just do +3 on the Flash. In really tough light, I'll go full manual.
@@RobTrek Thanks! Yes, that is best for sure. You know what, though? When I am lazy/in a hurry, I use the auto to get much better exposure of rooms that are away in the distance from the room being shot. For example, say you are shooting a kitchen and through the far doorway is the dining room; even though the dining room is fairly well lit, it will usually come out too dark in the distance (when viewing the subject kitchen image). Rather than taking the time to put a remote flash or plug-in flood in the dining room example, I just use Auto (yes, I know it is only widening the aperture and making other slight adjustments), but like I said, I am often lazy. LAZINESS, after all, is the Father of invention.
Wow!! thank you very very very very much Rob! Really useful!
Glad to help. Thanks. -Rob
That was really informative and will help me solve a lot of exposure issues. Many thanks.
Thanks. Glad to help.
Another excellent tutorial. Thanks Rob.
Thank you, Kent.
As allways, Excellent video tutorial of your Workflow...! A Pleasure to follow your channel.
Thanks, Jakob. Always nice to hear from you.
What a great tutorial. You've clarified a lot of things for me. Thanks so much.
Thanks, Jose.
Sounding like a fanboy, yet another great video with tons of real world useful info. Thanks Rob!
Thanks, Dave.
Shall be steering members of my club lighting workshop to this,such a good explanation..hope it works for those not fortunate enough to own Olly gear ..lol
Thank you, Gary!
Wow! So MUCH good info and I'll use it! Thanks Rob!
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
Hi Rob I found this really helpful thank you
Thanks, Supra.
In one of your videos, you were talking about batteries not all created equally. I think your'e right about that. I have been doing some testing with Batmax batteries bought from Amazon in Canada. What I did was to completely empty the battery by leaving the camera ON. After some time, it said "battery empty" I then started charging it while monitoring the parameters. When the charger decided that the battery was full, it was at 1780 ma. Normally it should have been at 2000 ma. I'll check another one of the same model tomorrow. I think 1780 ma is good for a Chinese battery, anyway they don't cost a lot. I'll also check an original Oly battery just for fun.
Of course, we have to take into account that part of the charging power was disipated as heat. We then have to design another way of measuring to complete the process. I'm thinking of using the same battery to power something and measure how many maH are output by the battery before it is empty. Is that what you wanted to try, Rob?
Yes, I used a USB mah meter connected between the batter and a light. The Olympus 1180mah battery drained roughly 1100+ everytime. Generics, regardless of mah ratings, drained only about 700-800mah. I used this one: amzn.to/37hO9Vs
Great video yet again, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks a lof for the explanation! Thank you verry much.
Thank you, Yohanes.
Nice video, not a great deal of equipment, but lots of not too easy to locate settings.....
Ah, you've seen this one. It shows locking the spot meter to the focus point as I mentioned earlier.
Great tutorial so well explained. Thank you.
Thank you!
Love it. Thanks Mr.Rob
Thanks, CKS.
Great tutorial. I learned something. I never really use spot metering, but I’m going to try next time I have some sunshine... maybe next month. :)
Thanks. Spot meter is handy!
Nice job on the video. I find that my PEN-F behaves a little weird in flash mode. I've noticed that in SLOW sync, sometimes the flash will not even fire. Then I'll change the ISO higher and it will enable the flash to fire, then I'll drop it down and it will fire again, but a few shots later it just stops firing. Something is influencing the way is decides to fire or not. In general I find the PEN-F to be a poor flash performer compared to say Nikon, and that's accounting for when it DOES fire. Maybe I just need to keep fiddling....
What is your flash setup?
Wow Rob, Magical Video like all yours Tutorials. Can we have the same effect with the mini flash FL-LM3 ?
It should work, but the fl-lm3 has limited power, so the back light can't be too bright.
Really good I will be trying this one myself. Hope you are going to do some more tutorials soon.
Have you done any tutorials on the Godox TT350o general use menu use etc?
I found one for HSS but not a general TT350o walkthrough. Since it seems to be getting a popular flash now some more tutorials with it would be good.
Thanks. There are a lot of tips in this video, though not exactly what you are looking for. ruclips.net/video/pbBSXxfqUJs/видео.html I may do another one without using a trigger.
Hi Rob,
Great video as always. A question came to mind - why not just focus on the flowers all the time and adjust the exposure comp so that only a little of the orange appears? in other words, is spot metering really necessary if the goal is to [almost] eliminate the orange over-range area?
That wouldn't work when using flash. You need to adjust the exposure for the window first, then move the spot meter back to the flower. Then the camera will properly fire the flash to expose for the flowers since it's still in ttl mode without changing the exposure for the windows.
@@RobTrek thanks for the quick reply
Hi Rob, terrific tutorials. I think Im doing something wrong here. I have EM1 M2 and am trying to link highlight spot meter. Went to E/ticked Spot Meter high but notice that the black circle stays in the middle when I move focus point. Should I have pressed something else? I am trying to take photos of birds in trees and thought the high spot meter maybe better as conditions so dark. Many thanks for all your help.
Hi. Go into the E. Exp/*/ISO and then scroll down to spot metering. Click right and select the check boxes for Spot, Spot Hi and Spot Shadow.
Great useful video! Many thanks for doing these videos.
Thanks, David.
Hi Rob, this is the very first video that I have seen on your channel and it give me a feeling of a down-to-earth photographer without the usual lens talk.
I have been checking back your channel for relevant learning to myself and thanks so much for the great videos, it teaches me much and I now use my PEN EPL6 much more effectively!
I'm personally rather annoyed by my camera's file naming: I cannot combine the photos from the previous batch of shoots into a folder because they all have the same name. I just overcome this and shared it freely how I did this in my most recent 5-minute video. If you don't mind, give it a try. It's a free script for renaming files, especially designed for renaming photos. Would appreciate your feedback if any.
Thanks. Go into the Record/Erase menu and change File Name from "Reset" to "Auto". That should keep the file name counter going so you don't have duplicates.
@@RobTrek Thanks! Just tried it upon your suggestion, certainly solved the problem for all my subsequent shoots.
An excellent tutorial! What would you do if the camera metered for a shutter speed greater than 250 (max sync speed), would you use HSS?
Thanks. Depends on how much brighter the highlights are. 1. I'd probably just increase the aperture. 2. Failing that, an ND filter. 3. Failing that, I'd need a more powerful flash for HSS. 4. Failing that, I'd add steps 1-3. 5. Faling all that, then start doubling up on steps 1-3. 6. Failing all that, start looking into 600@ studio strobes.
This is so amazing! I hope it's not witchcraft because I'm gonna start doing it.. thanks!
Thanks, Jemel.
Nice Rob. Thanks!
Thanks, Garry.
Thank you. Verry usefull for me!
Glad it was helpful!
Have you done a flash setting video for on camera flash like FL-LM3?
No, I haven't. I'll give some thought to one. Haven't used it in a long time but might be worth a revisit.
Rob Off the topic,your advise on shoulder bag (especially for mft camera gear) in one of your older videos was the swiss gear zink bag. Is that still your thoughts as i saw some of these bags available on ebay and thought of buying one as it seems to be excactly what i need.
Yes, I still love this bag. It's only real weakness is the overall rigidity is not as good as other bags. But it's a quality bag and for $20 an excellent value. I am looking for a new bag about that size with more rigidity, but haven't found an affordable option. I'm looking at this one: amzn.to/3aCjTa4
Fantastic, thank you,
Thanks, Catherine.
Very good!
Thanks!
Fantastic thank you! So helpful.
Thank you, Jim.
Hi Rob good info as usual, would you recommend using the highlight and shadow warning over the histogram?
Yes, but they have different uses. For pure exposure, the hi/sh allows you to see where in the image it's happening. I rarely use the histogram. However, the histogram gives you better overview of the exposure and can be broken down into each color channel.
Thanks for this, great tip.
Thanks, Richard.
Excellent tutorial. Please make a video tutorial about recording a vlog indoors with ambient light... without special lights...if that's even possible.
Definitely possible. Which camera do you have?
@@RobTrek EM 10 mark II
Magic
Thank you.
1:50] "This is not a very pleasing picture, or anything like what I can see with my naked eye." Yes, true enough, but what your naked eye is actually seeing is a *very* badly lit room, and nothing anyone would ever actually would want to take a picture of. Point being is that we as photographers in this challenging setting need to beat the natural setting - by a lot.
What our eyes see vs how our brain sees gets complicated. What our camera sees is much simpler.
Cool..
Thanks!
👍👍👍
Thanks, Jules.
👌👏👏👏
Thank you! 😃