This 600 + HP Turbo GSR Integra Is Stumping Me On The Dyno
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- Опубликовано: 20 сен 2021
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The COP isn’t getting enough voltage from the a26 power wire on the ecu. Tap into the ignition black/white wire
Change to 3 port solenoid or change solenoid frequency to 78. Keep up the great work Hunter. I’m stumped with you.
i am watching you
Damn, does anyone ever bring you a clean car? Seems like every one is sort of a basket case lately.
You have alot of patience man, and it helps US learn as you fight these things!
👍
There are 5 spade connectors on top of fuse box under dash put the cop wire to the ignition one u can find it with test light brother basically same as tapping the radio fuse but clean and has its own source
You got this bud
Love the channel.
Hunter tune ftw 🙌 💯
I appreciate your work and ur uploads man. Thanks for keeping the different projects man✌
boost by gear is a must have for them honda glass gears transmissions
Holy frig. It's been like 2 years since I seen you
Maybe isolate the rest of those powers being fed off the ecu. Like you said thats no good. So setup how it works for you. Swapping a boost control solenoid wouldn't hurt either. Quick and easy to try that.
Mine was doing same thing. The a11 wire was broken inside the insulation. The jumper Harness was a cheap Amazon one so the wiring was extremely thin. I resaudered and fixed issue.
try a different boost control solenoid. might be back feeding or spiking through ground side.solenoid might be shorted.
That’s what I was thinking, solenoid is the only thing he hasn’t changed at this point
Yeah I agree. As well as he could try moving that ground for the boost controller as well. It looked like it was grounded to the ecu wiring, probably unnecessary.
@@WiffingtonTuning it's controlled by the pcm through the ground aide
@@chrytech636 Is that normally a common grounding spot? I don't think I ever saw someone ground like that. I was always taught to ground Hondas at the main ground (thermostat housing).
@@WiffingtonTuning boost controller gets battery power and the ground side is controlled by pcm. PCM ground is always on the engine thermostat housing..
That COP could be braking up, voltage issues I'd put it straight to battery
Damn these gsr integras. Reminds me of the orange one with the bad vtec solenoid.
Bad distributor can wreak havoc with ecu signals. Can also be a shit ground.
I wish u tuned ford's
I’m just going to put my idea in. Maybe that boost controller is just bad.
Does the same thing happen with the solenoid electrically disconnected but still enabled in the tune??
Also on the coil on plug kit, you have to run resistor ngk plugs, if their not resistor, it wont work😁
I also always wire my 3 port solenoid as follows. 1 wire to switched 12v supply at ecu and the other wire to my analog input to ecu. I don’t ground it out at all. Mine is k series on Aem v2 so may be a little different. Figured I’d share anyway tho.
The ecu pin is ground
I would try a new controller and take everything that’s added to the ecu power to the battery or under dash fuse box there are tabs on there that have power all the time and some are key switched power
Seems like either the solenoid itself or the settings for it in terms of frequency might be something simple like that. Or wherever the solenoid is being signaled from isn't quite right. If you could assign a different pin to output to it that might help (as far as maybe something in the harness). Wouldn't hurt to see where the mystery wires for ecu grounds go. At least it's drive able without the boost control, I'm sure you'll figure it out if not run it old school with the ol vaccum Ts.
Coil pack issue for sure.
I would of pulled all the wiring Off the ecu power. And eliminate that bein a source since the coil on plug is still gettin power from that.
i have a project i need help with!! i stay in elkhorn wi!
Def try a different solenoid. The thing is just a spool of copper wire with clear insulation covering this wire. The insulation could have burned through on one spot causing a major electromagnetic pulse effect backfeeding to the ECU. It's probably some cheap Chinese eBay boost controller to begin with. Even if it says MAC, if it's from eBay, it may be a fake. If that isn't it, tell dude he needs a quality wire harness. That electrical tape on the ECU connectors made me cringe lol
Isolate the ground driver side of the boost controller. Also try it without coil on plug
I would get the rest of those powers off the ecu. Isolate those and I bet it clears up. It’s worth a shot.
I have wideband and boost controller on mine no issues at all
Possibly a mac valve that's bad and sending power through the ground to the ECU?
What's up brother, you need to put a dragonfire distributor Kama and NGK wires and your problem of misfire should go away. The coil on plug kit that you have is not working correctly
Watch for electrical noise issues. I had that make mine choppy af before.
Let us know the fix. I'm still chasing a very intermittent solid CEL issue.
That sucks. Hell I can't even get a P1399 code to go away after checking lash about five times.
Wanna say I watched a PFI video with the same issue. Reach out to them maybe?
Hey do you have c51 and c52 capacitors installed in the ecu? They aren't necessarily a needed component. They control noise well if it's a noisy electrical system. Only had 1 car give me balls over it so far. Worth a shot. They are cheap. Can send you some if you need them
Alternator.
Where is your dyno located?
Make sure he didn't "tap" into that ground signal wire for boost controller somewhere along the line. Remove those other power wires for cop and wideband. Tps doing same thing when boost by gear not enabled?
Have u tried a different boost solenoid/ Mac valve. Go 3 port or different value/ solenoid?
I have mine wired up to A25 for 12v Mac 4 port on Hondata S300 v3 tuned on 30psi zero issues
Normally they are fine like that
@@HunterTuned Yeah I know cause that's the only thing I have using that pin my only gripe is trying to find an accurate non variable 12v for my AEM wideband cause it doesn't seem accurate using the cigarette lighter
I just bought this car. Have you ever figured out the issue on it.
stupid question, did you try swapping out the boost controller?
Inadequate fuel pressure to the injectors will cause misfire under load as the mixture leans out.
It a spark issue don't you see the massive flame coming out the up-pipe when it misfire
I would try a different 4 port solenoid or check continuity between the pins. Ground noise comes to mind. I havent seen s300 corrupt files, but flashpro look normal and act very not normal lol. I had one corrupt file that ran 12.2:1 in closed loop lol. good luck man
Same thing happened to my last single cam. I didn’t even put a boost controller on my new built b18 , I think it was my Mac valve
And my new speed factory 4 port was left out in rain now I think it’s bad, I got a turbo smart one you could have ? Just a thought
The boost controller is damaged inside of it as soon as it meets the parameters to turn it on its sending something back up the wiring because of how it was wired up initially.. he messed up that 4 port
My guesses are either blowing the spark out with higher boost. I’m sure you checked that tho. If not that maybe it’s not actually going lean during breakup and just reading leaner. Could be a rich misfire. Had this issue tuning my turbo k24. Rich misfire reading lean kept adding fuel just made it worse till I figured out that it was a rich misfire. Maybe pull a little fuel and try it again. If not then test a 3 port boost solenoid. I always have better luck with 3 ports than 4 ports. Also try disabling the launch control completely. Also was gonna say maybe boost fuel trim table is adding fuel where your actual fuel map isn’t and causing it to have a rich misfire and showing a lean condition but you said it’s not actually raising boost when controller is on. Love the fact that you’re reaching out for help tho man. That’s awesome. None of us know everything. I’m sure one of us can help solve the issue tho.
He said it do the same thing a 1 psi not a blowing spark issue
Is it possible to bench test these types of solenoids with like an air compressor? Or like resistance check them idk just kinda spit balling ideas. Theres gotta be away to test them if they go bad. Best bet is to try a different one I'm thinking. I know the speedfactory ones are plumbed a little differently, could that make it run to a boost cut if improperly plumbed causing the cut effect?
78th from the UK.
Change the solenoid frequency
Check fuel delivery maybe the pumps shitting out
Keep busting it out mate. Mac valve needs changing as faulty causing a voltage feedback making it go spastic
Does it do it off the dyno, driving on the street? Just asking because you said speed sensor putting it in launch control...... If reading rear wheel speed, would kinda make sense? Idk just spitballing
That coil on plug is drawing too many amps if power is wired directly to ecu. Run power to the coil on plug with a 30A relay from the battery and a switched 12V ign on signal
What turbo is that? Size?
Where’s T-bag aka AIDS
Will cams degreed wrong cause overheating?
No
No but not setting the timing with the dizzy can
weird, good luck, don't suck
Hunter ?. So I have a 1990 crx si with a plug an play obd 0 90s integra motor. I changed my coolant sending unit an thermostat. My coolant gauge will rise to operating temp I'll go pull an drive down the road an it sinks all the way down?
Check your thermostat, might be sticking open. but first, exhaustively bleed/burp your coolant. Airt pockets can make for weird readings occasionally.
@chad ..do have a thermostat installed? Is your fan running constantly? When this happens pull over and feel the lower radiator hose an see if its colder then the top ..usually when the gauge dips down to cold is because your not running a thermostat or its stuck open
@@nobodynoone2500 thermostat is new but I'll buy a new one to to make sure. I did notice the heater will go half ass when It happens an that I do lose heat in lower hose an sometimes upper will get hot an then warm. I'll keep chugging at this.
Air bubble. 100%. jack car up remove radiator cap, let Idle with heater full blast. Gotta burp the air out.
@@y49crxsi yea you need to bleed out the air pocket . Sometimes its hard af to get rid of it. Best way is to jack the car up in the front to get the nose as high as possible..this will make the radiator the highest point so air can bleed out
Yah man. Some of these comments are close and your close too. Because i watched the AFR when you had it switched on and the AFR was a full 2 digits leaner with it on. So that TPS signal with that enabled IS doing what your graph says it is. My guess is there's something with the electric load. I.e. does it do the same thing with the option disabled, but headlights and blower and radio on? Im just thinking outside the box... I had issues with ELD electronic load detectors in the past with Hondas. Not just the ELD itself but just that one extra pull of power from the 4port was enough to weaken the weakest thing in the system. And in this case that might happen to be the TPS. Bad ground. Bad power signal. Bad plug on TPS.. But the cause of it is the extra draw on the system.
Id try to leave that option disabled.
Turn the headlights radio and blower on and try to see if it replicates your issue.
I noticed that as well. Was hovering around 12.1, with the a/f tapped off the ecu power, I was thinking that adding ground for the bcs is drawing from the ecu voltage and changing the a/f input which is causing it to think it is running lean.
@@Mr.Wongburger exactly. Im really thinking its load dependant or in that vicinity
@@mobilebeeler I agree. I remember when I was just installing my aem a/f gauge, I wired it to the harness at the ecu and it immediately changed my afr. I took the wires back off and everything went back to normal.
The o2 sensor read o2 content not fuel content unburn fuel will cause a false lean condition because the o2 sense less air in the exhaust
@@legros731 regardless of what is being read there is a change occurring do to a new load being introduced. My perso AL experience with it there was a negative effect on the motors performance based on wiring being done after tapping into the o2 sensor for monitoring through the gauge. The signal sent to the ecu is in voltage based on the amount of volts send it determines what the digital read out to the ecu or gauge is.
So by having anything extra running off of a power source or ground directly tiedntonthe ecu you are changing how the ecu interprets the signal from the o2 sensor. If the signal is changed the ecu will attempt to adjust for that change. A 12ish afr in boost isn't super lean but the tune was clearly calling for 11.2-11.3 at that load and rpm.
I could be completely wrong, just going off of what I saw in the video. That's the sucky part about having to deal with these cars.
Daaaam 2 lol
I saw u had it at 100 did u try 0 just for the hell of it and are u using a Mac solenoid and check all the wiring for a short also set it up on the analog instead of the ecu the one that plugs rite into the s300 and use a 3 port mac and u should be good on zero of course not a 100 I saw that u have the 100 box checked and not the zero
Boost controller is crap.
Blame the epa
First