G'day Sam, far, far, worse things to be grossed out about, and humor knows no bounds, a good laugh is good medicine IMO ......... and further more, ..... there's a lotta science to support that. Cheers Duke.
The two handed eyeballing it method is the way with small stones like this. If you're really sqeamish about your fingers you could try swapping hands and moving the stone up and down against the edge instead. I do this for most larger blades by holding the knife edge-up and bringing the stone to it, if the light is just right you can see when the edge flattens to the stone, then moving the stone in oval movements and working along the edge. Then you spin the knife around and repeat on the other side. Been doing this for years and been getting shaving sharp edges, and have never cut myself. Like any activity requiring fine motor control you feel like a right clumsy berk doing it at first, you just keep at it until you figure out the muscle memory. I wouldn't dream of going back to sharpening with a large benchstone now, apart from certain tools like chisels.
G'day mate, right on, an art worth the learning alright, though I reckon the main difference is the luxury of benchtop tools/methods in the home garage, (especially if you've a shipload to do, maybe some reprofiling), as opposed to portability out and about .... i.e. on a job site or out in the bush. Cheers Duke.
@@just9911 G'day mate, yep, I often use a 2 grit puck, not just on axes/hatchets, but on machetes and the like. Can take a while, (depending on the edge you start with and of course the steel composition and HT), though with practice, magnificent results. Fair to say IMO, the old ways are often the best. Cheers Duke.
I pull the diamond plates off of my worksharp field sharpener and hold them with my fingers all the time. Especially when sharpening spyderco’s with no choil all the way to the plunge grind. I think the hard right angles on the double stuff might be great for that. 🤷🏻♂️
I love this stone. Use it on my knee. The sheeth is also a strop, I put some green compound on it. I even sharpen my kitchen knives on it. Just takes a bit of practice...
I have the older double-sided ceramic one. I use it all the time. I don’t use it to sharpen a dull knife. I use it to keep a somewhat sharp knife, extremely sharp. I hold it in one hand and freehand in the air, I use light strokes.
If you’re a spyderco matriarch owner your serrations don’t go dull. The knife is used to flick open and closed aggressively whilst watching Steven segall movies
For taking a sharpening device with you, i would think the victorinox thing that looks almost like a pen or a DC3 or DC4 would be smaller and handier. Also, i have sharpened serrations on a knife, but they were of a bread knife. I used a ceramic serrations thingy from a lansky. But instead of using the whole lansky, i only used the cermic thing without the clamp and the rod. Did work well. And then i got myself a set of small diamond files and the same in ceramic. That's even handier for things like serrations. (i also sharpened a kitchen usentil i lack the english name of. Or the one in my own language too when thinking about it. Its a small container with an insert with 3 blades and the top connects to the insert and has a little handle with a piece of string. And when you pull on the string, the blade insert rotates pretty fast. I resharpened those blades with the ceramic files.)
The original Double Stuff was the first sharpening stone I ever bought and never managed to get a consistent edge on it. This was decades before the Internet and amazing channels like this.
"He's a much better sharpener then I am" Makes me feel a little better, as a teen with only a Case knife I got at a flea market and a ceramic stone my father got me, I was sharpening just holding the small stone and praying I was doing it halfway decent.
Main use case is a portable stone that can sharpen maxamet since it is cbn. Also like BBB showed it is best held in the hand. Somewhere between finger stones and a bench stone. For the average user the worksharp is better. Double stuff is enthusiast level gear in my opinion.
One technique that works really well, and that I think is being used in the video example you showed, is to tuck your elbows in tight and brace your wrists against your chest to limit the range of motion of your hands. You can then move the stone and the knife fairly quickly without fear of cutting yourself by rotating from your shoulders and locking your wrists and elbows. So long as you keep your arms locked against your body it's actually kind of hard to cut yourself. This is similar to the chest lever technique used by carvers.
Using stones this size I found it useful to sharpen like Michael Christy does or clamp it in a stone holder with something underneath to elevate it a bit
I have the spyderco sharpmaker. I have the diamond stones and the extra-fine stone as well. Sometimes I just take one of the stones in my hand and freehand sharpen my pocket knives on the point or flat of the stone. Very effective and easy to hold.
I love this stone. I throw it in my pack when i got and visit folks who i know aren't good at sharpening and i can put a good edge on their kitchen cutlery. I've also taken this on adventure trips when i'm not packing ultralight, because i can get a really nice edge back on any camp or pocket knife, or any tool. I think this is the better choice over the cheaper dual-ceramic doublestuff because the rounded edges let you work on the serrated knives you might encounter at your mums, and the groove lets you re-point needle points on tools etc. with the suede case that makes a great strop, you really have a pocketable-sized start-to-finish any blade steel or shape system. I think it's the most compact/capable sharpening piece of kit for folks that want a fully capable, start-to-finish sharpener in the minimal footprint. For the ultra-light, i would pass on this because i think carrying this weightly little metal/ceramic stone is contrary the spirit of ultralight. You porobably are obligated to give up the fine ceramic and stropping capabilities in an ultralight kit for the weight savings of a simple, thin, and very lightweight diamond-coated plate. My hunting kit has a miniature double-sided diamond sharpener branded by Buck that is super thin and only for "emergency" coarse sharpening when you've damaged an edge. Pete, i think you should give BBB's use technique a bit of practice and see if you can get the hang of it. Or mimic the way that Michael Christy holds and handles some of those smaller sharpening stones. I feel like once you get past the fear of cutting yourself and your muscle memory catches up, holding these smaller stones will end up giving you both better "feel" and consistency in keeping the edge bevel on the stone, and be faster and less cumbersome than trying to press this small stone into service as a "benchstone". Your little whoopsie sliding off the edge of the stone and into the table at 5:21 is something i was never able to get over on those ~1" wide stones like on the doublestuffs and the venev centaurs.
I dislike the massive jump from CBN to fine stone. I have better stones for reprofiling. Brown, white, and strop are better for maintaining an already profiled edge.
Eyeballing it and blasting it like BBB is the way to go with handheld stones like the Double Stuff. Quick, too. You develop muscle memory very quickly.
I have the original version of this stone that has the gray/medium grit on one side and the white/fine on the other. It's a great companion to my KME and Sharpmaker when I simply want to touch up a scuffed edge. You can put a new edge on a blade so long as it's not completely blunted or chipped.
Double stuff 1 is MUCH better for knife nerds. We already have large stones or something like the KME to profile quickly and accurately. The brown and white (medium and fine) plus the case as a finishing strop work much better for maintaining an edge.
@@anonymous4201 The real question is "why do I want to reprofile on the go?" A larger diamond plate or a KME (or the $60 worksharp fixed angle sharpener) will make your life WAY easier than a tiny 4" DC4. Even a coarse piece of wet/dry sandpaper on a sheet of glass (spray the glass and stick) will be far easier to use. Just about the only reason I'd choose a small profiling stone is some kind of go bag, but in that case, the wider DMT coarse diamond credit card sharpener with a short piece of double-stick tape is probably easier to use. That plus the Double Stuff 1 (the extra inch of length vs the DC4 matters a lot when trying to avoid your fingers) would be my lightweight go-bag choice. If money is an issue and a go-bag isn't really required, a scrap of leather on a thin board with some stropping compound will generally give you what you need throughout the day until you make it home to the big sharpeners.
There's a Ray Mears video on YT where he wedges a DC4 stone on a fallen log in the woods between three small nails and uses it like a fixed benchstone.
@@anonymous4201 The diamond plate on the DC4 wears out pretty quick. The newer CC4 replaces the diamond plate with a ceramic plate, plus you can strop on the case. If you're just maintaining an edge the CC4 is better than the DC4 imho ... that or a DMT diafold
I want a double stuff 3 that has the CBN and the brown stone where I can just use one side of the case with some compound for the fine finish. In truth though, I carry a double stuff original because I don't want to reprofile on a tiny stone. Medium and fine with a very fine strop is ideal for touching up in the field. As to why double stuff over worksharp? The double stuff is way thinner and fits in my pocket carry painlessly while I can't see myself EVER carrying around the worksharp.
I tend to sit in my sofa, flicking one of the too many knives, and feel it does not really bite my nail. That is the moment, still sitting in my sofa, that it reach for my double stuff (1) and fiddle a little (the two finger grip)The satisfaction of having the knife biting my nail again is all I need to appreciate why I bought this double stuff.
I love that thing. I have one and use it to do just touch up sharpening to keep my knife super sharp. It puts a super keen edge on knives. Really nice and small. I just hold it on my hand and sharpen. Just like BBB does. Hold it 17ish degrees.
pocket type stones are usually used where there's no proper place to put it on and held by your off hand and sharpening with your main hand freehanding it in the field, maybe on your lap or on your palm.
To get ingrown toenails out, simply clip diagonally down from the middle of the side of the toe its on, cut it down past where you should, then pull it and let it tear down to the side of your toe and if you do it right you can keep the whole thing in tact and pull it right out. No need to dig!
@@CedricAda I used to get terrible ingrown toenails and my mom would try to dig them out, she was trying to help but I have PTSD from her extraction attempts 🤣 then I got a really bad one that was all infected and nasty and I wouldn't let my mom near it so she had to take me to the Dr and that's how i learned that technique, exactly what the Dr did and my toenail that was festering for weeks was relieved instantly. Now anytime myself or my wife gets one that's the trick and it really doesn't hurt, especially considering your alternative 😉
I've been curious about these ever since I found out there was knife content on U tub. Was put off by the size. Still great looking Al Mar - no mar ring on it again, wordsmith !
One of the things I never realised until recently about the field sharpener was it really struggles to sharpen Spyderco, because of the finger choils. I’m trying to work out if I can modify it to make it better, but that’s one area where the double stuff would be better.
You sitting on the sofa with a bathrope and sharpening knives is also what I do plus my family sits next to me and we watch a movie. Its like men knitting to hand sharpen knives. Orignal stuff.
You are the best knife content reviewer on you tube. Everyone else beside maybe Knife bro is the same and boring and probably doesn't use their knives like you and I do. Keep the content coming. I love Australian women's accent. Nothing hotter.
I'm probably the target audience for that stone In regards to portability, I don't like stones/systems that I cannot bring into the field! I travel alot for work and sometimes deploy out to places where all I can take is in a couple bags where I'll be out there for months, I need my knife sharp where I rely on it the most and to not be portable is much less valuable. I also like thin primary bevels with a small microbevel and having no angle guides there to get in the way is in my eyes a benefit. Many times instead of moving the knife over the stone I also like to move the stone over the knife, especially on large blades. This method is fairly quick going and more precise than you'd assume after you get decent at it! Finally I've heard CBN stones impart a better finish than diamond and last longer... I've got no experience here I mainly stick to diamond (venev!) and a fine stone not dissimilar to the ceramic side in finish (I prefer my translucent arkansas for finishing)
Based opinion on microbevels. Yeah people get them completly wrong, they think its an increase in angle and duller, while in reality its adjustable. Shallow transition bevel and normal angle microbevel edge is a LIFECHANGER, regarding sharpening. I pity everyone which didnt discover this yet, and due to that spends way to long sharpening, and have an underperforming thick edge... 😅 Any experience with diamond/cbn rods? Might be really neat for portability and ease of use?
Currently travelling the globe on a bicycle with a CR folder and fixed blade. The double stuff keeps my blades keen without taking up much space. Also, I use the leather pouch as a strop.
You have 3 basic types of sharpening. No 1 being in the "field" and need to keep the edge working during the trip. Then restoring a very damaged edge and then restoring after a trip. No 1 should/could be handled by a small combi stone. The second may require a much better setup to get the correct angles and working through many grits. The 3rd just be done with fewer grits but with a good angel control. But all 3 needs a tour on the leather to be good.
I have one that I like for small jobs (thin regrind k390 manbug or dragonfly). With a TPT slide utility knife it is easier to sharpen the blade than change it.
Looks like it would be best for palm sized carving tools and carving knives. Something with small, usually flat ground edges an. The sharp corners and rounded bits would work well on sharpening the inside of carving gouges.
Dang, sharp acting, narrating, editing, etc.ing on this one 👍 Got the field sharpener, pretty happy with it. Have two Skerper double sided pocket stones, pretty good as well, only gripe being that on the one the diamond plate is not glued on in alignment with the ceramic stone. Why have I never tried the eraser on the ceramic stones...😬 Hope it passed and flushed without pain or any other incident 😅
Why not leave the knife stationary and then move the stone at 15-19° across it? I use 3” ice skating sharpener stones with ceramic dmt sides You never use the whole stone, and you don’t filet yourself? You could also get one of those amazon $35 sharpening jigs and make an adapter? Some of those stones wear easy Also smiths dmt field sharpener is waay better than the spyderco pocket sharpener
So, this smaller awkward working area made you really focus on the task and before you mentioned it, I’d noticed it also. I wouldn’t want to do it. I’ll make the field sharpener my smallest one. Now, I want to see you successfully sharpen using the sharpener on the Leatherman Signal.
I have both and actually prefer the Double Stuff - once you get the knack of it it’s pretty straightforward. Plus I use a lot of SE knives and it’s great for doing those out in the field. The leather sheath makes a great strip too loaded with a bit of diamond paste. Each to their own 👍🏻
That looks very different to my approximately 10 year old DoubleStuff. On mine the grey part is also some sort of stone-like (ceramic?) material, and the two sides are not so out of wack as yours. Just slightly, they almost line up perfectly. Mine also doesn't have that groove in the white part. Curious if they're still the same grit. Pouch is still the same btw. It's my fav on-the-go sharpener, I just freehand it like that video example you showed. I doused one side of the pouch in green jewelers paste to strop with.
Ahh yea its the number 2. The 2 is offset in construction and is CBN 400grit and Fine ceramic. I believe the doublestuff 1 was two types of ceramic and stacked symmetrical style?
@@CedricAda I had a look on the (dutch) website I bought mine from and they actually have both for sale. Not sure if it's older stock or that Spyderco still makes both but they list the course side on the nr. 2 as 220 versus 400 grit on the older one. The finer side is listed as 1000 to 3000 grit for both versions and both sides are ceramic on the older one. There's a bit of a price difference as well, 86 Euro for the nr. 2 versus 66 Euro for the original. Cheers!
I think the use I’d find for this is sharpening my khukuri. It’s a 13” beast with an inversely curved convex edge and I just can’t conceive how I’d sharpen it with benchstones.
I have the old version of spyderco’s double sided mini stone all ceramic medium and fine works good for light sharpening definitely not something I’d use to completely redo an edge.
I'm just glad you were more honest about lionsteel m390. While their protocol is 60-61 it is the lowest performance m390 on the market due to the protocol they use. I'd say the highest m390 you've tested is 60rc with cryo. Ideally it would be great to get a 62rc Spyderco USA example for testing as well as a 60-61rc Reate m390 with secondary hardening (Reate has had a rash of 59rc m390).
someone was sayin in another comment here they’ve picked up the slack and pushed it into the lower 60’s now on newer knives, so thats nice of them I guess
@@CedricAda sadly the hardness doesnt matter if the protocol they use doesnt use cryo or uses the wrong temp and time to provide a microstructure that allows for wear resistance like other brands.
After repeated criticism Lionsteel has changed its hardening processes, newer knives should be better in this regard. For example, I own a Lionsteel Myto in K390 and the K390 steel is hardened to 64 hrc.
My 2 cents, part of it anyway lol, sharpening from home and not doing lots of hard to sharpen things and not changing the angle, get the entry level work sharp fixed angle. Want to change edge angle and or have more than one hard to sharpen knife steel? Get the KME, just picked one up for 244 USD , done 3 knives so far and way nicer than my entry level work sharp fixed angle. There’s places for this type, ( not in house ) and that only applies if you’re looking for best bang buy once cry one home based sharpener. Want a field sharpener? Well Pete has good reviews of them, like this one 🙂
I've been doing the two finger hold for 7 years ....then it happened . I will not be doing that style anymore . Took the pad almost off my middle finger two months ago . That type of cut is the worst , it bleeds so bad and if ya don't have any skin left it takes 4 weeks to fully heal. I always bragged about it internally like ..." this is easy , I'd really have to screw up to cut myself " yadda yadda... Don't do it . 😑
You have to be going too fast or not paying enough attention to have an accident if you're practiced in that technique. Hubris will get you every time, especially with sharp tools.
@GurtTarctor For me it was fine until I got a disc issue in my neck . Now I have to be way more careful cause of nerve problems in my arms and hands. It's best to just not do it in my opinion BUT honestly when I wasn't having hamd issues I always felt fine with it . That said unskilled folks should wear gloves or something until they get used to it. To each their own , it does come down to skill but anyone can make a mistake even those who think they won't.
@@airiksknifereviews9548 Yeah if you've got physical problems like that then avoiding the technique makes sense. But I would say that for most people there's not a good reason to avoid the technique if they take it slow and careful initially. If you think about food preparation with a knife and how close people have the edge to their fingers, they can do that because they use a particular technique and have developed the muscle memory to be able to do it safely. Of course you can cut yourself doing that and people often do, but people still do it because of how much control it affords. The analogy doesn't quite match with sharpening because bench top sharpening can give equally good results, but still I think it's reasonable because of the practical advantages a small stone between thumb/finger can give you.
It's the best! Been using various duofolds for years on fixed blades and folders. A great pocket sharpener for honing and damage correction, anywhere and anytime.
Oh wow he put the fan fare music in! He DOES read the comments! Lol Jk hope your poor toe heals right up homie. You need to get yourself a genuine Frank Reynolds toe knife
Would it go in a stone holding system like ep , tsprof , etc ? Also how many knives you think you could sharpen with work sharp ? Does it wear slow .. ? Thanks keep up the good work
pretty light pressure, maybe the relaxed weight of my forearm? Yes these things can come loose over time I have a couple kme stones from years ago that I ruined with pressure
When you point out that things like this exist, it really confuses the "muh field sharpening" crowd who use that as the main justification in worshipping 420HC
shaptons have zero feedback, harder stones have zero feedback. but they're great for harder steels. softer stones are great if you like sharpening carbon steels coz you get great feedback.
I am assuming the stones are made in the states and then sent to china to be glued and maybe the cases are chinese too? Most if not all of Spydercos other stones I’ve seen are US made so surely its the same factory making the actual abraisive. I thought this too though! World peace thru sharpening co-operation
Ew. That thing you said.
the worst thing, i cant believe ive done this
G'day Sam, far, far, worse things to be grossed out about, and humor knows no bounds, a good laugh is good medicine IMO ......... and further more, ..... there's a lotta science to support that.
Cheers Duke.
The two handed eyeballing it method is the way with small stones like this. If you're really sqeamish about your fingers you could try swapping hands and moving the stone up and down against the edge instead. I do this for most larger blades by holding the knife edge-up and bringing the stone to it, if the light is just right you can see when the edge flattens to the stone, then moving the stone in oval movements and working along the edge. Then you spin the knife around and repeat on the other side. Been doing this for years and been getting shaving sharp edges, and have never cut myself. Like any activity requiring fine motor control you feel like a right clumsy berk doing it at first, you just keep at it until you figure out the muscle memory. I wouldn't dream of going back to sharpening with a large benchstone now, apart from certain tools like chisels.
G'day mate, right on, an art worth the learning alright, though I reckon the main difference is the luxury of benchtop tools/methods in the home garage, (especially if you've a shipload to do, maybe some reprofiling), as opposed to portability out and about .... i.e. on a job site or out in the bush. Cheers Duke.
@@just9911 G'day mate, yep, I often use a 2 grit puck, not just on axes/hatchets, but on machetes and the like. Can take a while, (depending on the edge you start with and of course the steel composition and HT), though with practice, magnificent results. Fair to say IMO, the old ways are often the best. Cheers Duke.
I pull the diamond plates off of my worksharp field sharpener and hold them with my fingers all the time. Especially when sharpening spyderco’s with no choil all the way to the plunge grind.
I think the hard right angles on the double stuff might be great for that. 🤷🏻♂️
I love this stone. Use it on my knee. The sheeth is also a strop, I put some green compound on it. I even sharpen my kitchen knives on it. Just takes a bit of practice...
damn, even kitchen knives? for kitchen knives i love my 21cm kuromaku, but if i could get a 40-50cm stone, i'd be using that.
Pete, thank you so much for all the recent content…you keep me laughing.
I have the older double-sided ceramic one. I use it all the time. I don’t use it to sharpen a dull knife. I use it to keep a somewhat sharp knife, extremely sharp. I hold it in one hand and freehand in the air, I use light strokes.
exactly what I was going to write
Would the original double stuff be a good starting point for a novice? Trying to decide between DC4 and double stuff. Thanks
@@anonymous4201 I think it’s a good stone if you want to freehand sharpen. For most people a sharpener that has an angle guide may be better.
If you’re a spyderco matriarch owner your serrations don’t go dull. The knife is used to flick open and closed aggressively whilst watching Steven segall movies
For taking a sharpening device with you, i would think the victorinox thing that looks almost like a pen or a DC3 or DC4 would be smaller and handier.
Also, i have sharpened serrations on a knife, but they were of a bread knife. I used a ceramic serrations thingy from a lansky. But instead of using the whole lansky, i only used the cermic thing without the clamp and the rod.
Did work well. And then i got myself a set of small diamond files and the same in ceramic.
That's even handier for things like serrations.
(i also sharpened a kitchen usentil i lack the english name of. Or the one in my own language too when thinking about it.
Its a small container with an insert with 3 blades and the top connects to the insert and has a little handle with a piece of string.
And when you pull on the string, the blade insert rotates pretty fast. I resharpened those blades with the ceramic files.)
The original Double Stuff was the first sharpening stone I ever bought and never managed to get a consistent edge on it. This was decades before the Internet and amazing channels like this.
What do you recommend as my first stone? Thanks
I’m into knife stuff, but I come here mostly for the overall content and editing.😂
Thanks for the video.
So true!
aw thanks for the feedback man, I try and keep the screen active as best as I can to keep things entertaining
"He's a much better sharpener then I am"
Makes me feel a little better, as a teen with only a Case knife I got at a flea market and a ceramic stone my father got me, I was sharpening just holding the small stone and praying I was doing it halfway decent.
Alex and Pete posting sharpening stuff on the same day FTW. Makes me want to dull my knives on purpose just to practice sharpening more
Alex has been the inspiration for this new batch of content without a doubt
Main use case is a portable stone that can sharpen maxamet since it is cbn. Also like BBB showed it is best held in the hand. Somewhere between finger stones and a bench stone.
For the average user the worksharp is better. Double stuff is enthusiast level gear in my opinion.
One technique that works really well, and that I think is being used in the video example you showed, is to tuck your elbows in tight and brace your wrists against your chest to limit the range of motion of your hands. You can then move the stone and the knife fairly quickly without fear of cutting yourself by rotating from your shoulders and locking your wrists and elbows. So long as you keep your arms locked against your body it's actually kind of hard to cut yourself. This is similar to the chest lever technique used by carvers.
Using stones this size I found it useful to sharpen like Michael Christy does or clamp it in a stone holder with something underneath to elevate it a bit
Love the Double Stuff 2. Works wonders as a field sharpener on a Spydie edge.
I have the spyderco sharpmaker. I have the diamond stones and the extra-fine stone as well. Sometimes I just take one of the stones in my hand and freehand sharpen my pocket knives on the point or flat of the stone. Very effective and easy to hold.
I will obtain a sharpmaker as part of this questline, no doubt at all
I love this stone. I throw it in my pack when i got and visit folks who i know aren't good at sharpening and i can put a good edge on their kitchen cutlery. I've also taken this on adventure trips when i'm not packing ultralight, because i can get a really nice edge back on any camp or pocket knife, or any tool.
I think this is the better choice over the cheaper dual-ceramic doublestuff because the rounded edges let you work on the serrated knives you might encounter at your mums, and the groove lets you re-point needle points on tools etc.
with the suede case that makes a great strop, you really have a pocketable-sized start-to-finish any blade steel or shape system. I think it's the most compact/capable sharpening piece of kit for folks that want a fully capable, start-to-finish sharpener in the minimal footprint.
For the ultra-light, i would pass on this because i think carrying this weightly little metal/ceramic stone is contrary the spirit of ultralight. You porobably are obligated to give up the fine ceramic and stropping capabilities in an ultralight kit for the weight savings of a simple, thin, and very lightweight diamond-coated plate. My hunting kit has a miniature double-sided diamond sharpener branded by Buck that is super thin and only for "emergency" coarse sharpening when you've damaged an edge.
Pete, i think you should give BBB's use technique a bit of practice and see if you can get the hang of it. Or mimic the way that Michael Christy holds and handles some of those smaller sharpening stones. I feel like once you get past the fear of cutting yourself and your muscle memory catches up, holding these smaller stones will end up giving you both better "feel" and consistency in keeping the edge bevel on the stone, and be faster and less cumbersome than trying to press this small stone into service as a "benchstone". Your little whoopsie sliding off the edge of the stone and into the table at 5:21 is something i was never able to get over on those ~1" wide stones like on the doublestuffs and the venev centaurs.
I dislike the massive jump from CBN to fine stone. I have better stones for reprofiling. Brown, white, and strop are better for maintaining an already profiled edge.
Eyeballing it and blasting it like BBB is the way to go with handheld stones like the Double Stuff.
Quick, too. You develop muscle memory very quickly.
I have the original version of this stone that has the gray/medium grit on one side and the white/fine on the other. It's a great companion to my KME and Sharpmaker when I simply want to touch up a scuffed edge. You can put a new edge on a blade so long as it's not completely blunted or chipped.
I've had a Double Stuff 2 for a couple of years now, and one of these days I'm sure I'll find a use for it.
Yeah but it looks cool 😅 I feel your pain
Double stuff 1 is MUCH better for knife nerds. We already have large stones or something like the KME to profile quickly and accurately. The brown and white (medium and fine) plus the case as a finishing strop work much better for maintaining an edge.
@@mrbigberdwould you say the double stuff one would be a good first stone? Either that or the DC4? What do you suggest?
@@anonymous4201 The real question is "why do I want to reprofile on the go?"
A larger diamond plate or a KME (or the $60 worksharp fixed angle sharpener) will make your life WAY easier than a tiny 4" DC4. Even a coarse piece of wet/dry sandpaper on a sheet of glass (spray the glass and stick) will be far easier to use.
Just about the only reason I'd choose a small profiling stone is some kind of go bag, but in that case, the wider DMT coarse diamond credit card sharpener with a short piece of double-stick tape is probably easier to use. That plus the Double Stuff 1 (the extra inch of length vs the DC4 matters a lot when trying to avoid your fingers) would be my lightweight go-bag choice.
If money is an issue and a go-bag isn't really required, a scrap of leather on a thin board with some stropping compound will generally give you what you need throughout the day until you make it home to the big sharpeners.
A pleasant surprise after working hard to sit down and see a video from Pete. 👍🏻
I came for the review, and quite possibly a little sharpening, and left with both and a 23 minutes of true entertainment. Cheers for this.
There's a Ray Mears video on YT where he wedges a DC4 stone on a fallen log in the woods between three small nails and uses it like a fixed benchstone.
And, of course, things are a lot easier if you're field sharpening a scandi grind with one of these little stones
Saw that and was impressed, was going to buy the DC4 until I read everyone on Reddit was slating it and saying double stuff is better??
@@anonymous4201 The diamond plate on the DC4 wears out pretty quick. The newer CC4 replaces the diamond plate with a ceramic plate, plus you can strop on the case. If you're just maintaining an edge the CC4 is better than the DC4 imho ... that or a DMT diafold
I want a double stuff 3 that has the CBN and the brown stone where I can just use one side of the case with some compound for the fine finish. In truth though, I carry a double stuff original because I don't want to reprofile on a tiny stone. Medium and fine with a very fine strop is ideal for touching up in the field.
As to why double stuff over worksharp? The double stuff is way thinner and fits in my pocket carry painlessly while I can't see myself EVER carrying around the worksharp.
It's for sharpening your knives at a stoplight.
Hey Pete, not to alarm you, but I think a sniper has a bead on your chest.
I got the Double Stuff on a super duper close out sale and I still agree with you.
I tend to sit in my sofa, flicking one of the too many knives, and feel it does not really bite my nail. That is the moment, still sitting in my sofa, that it reach for my double stuff (1) and fiddle a little (the two finger grip)The satisfaction of having the knife biting my nail again is all I need to appreciate why I bought this double stuff.
I love that thing. I have one and use it to do just touch up sharpening to keep my knife super sharp. It puts a super keen edge on knives. Really nice and small. I just hold it on my hand and sharpen. Just like BBB does. Hold it 17ish degrees.
pocket type stones are usually used where there's no proper place to put it on and held by your off hand and sharpening with your main hand freehanding it in the field, maybe on your lap or on your palm.
To get ingrown toenails out, simply clip diagonally down from the middle of the side of the toe its on, cut it down past where you should, then pull it and let it tear down to the side of your toe and if you do it right you can keep the whole thing in tact and pull it right out. No need to dig!
as correct as this comment likely is, it certainly made my tummy feel funny and my bum clench when I read it 😅
@@CedricAda I used to get terrible ingrown toenails and my mom would try to dig them out, she was trying to help but I have PTSD from her extraction attempts 🤣 then I got a really bad one that was all infected and nasty and I wouldn't let my mom near it so she had to take me to the Dr and that's how i learned that technique, exactly what the Dr did and my toenail that was festering for weeks was relieved instantly. Now anytime myself or my wife gets one that's the trick and it really doesn't hurt, especially considering your alternative 😉
Loving the sharpening content Pete!
I've been curious about these ever since I found out there was knife content on U tub. Was put off by the size. Still great looking Al Mar - no mar ring on it again, wordsmith !
One of the things I never realised until recently about the field sharpener was it really struggles to sharpen Spyderco, because of the finger choils. I’m trying to work out if I can modify it to make it better, but that’s one area where the double stuff would be better.
Sink two paneling nails about 2/3 depth on each side so it is below the plane but adequate to hold it in place.
You sitting on the sofa with a bathrope and sharpening knives is also what I do plus my family sits next to me and we watch a movie. Its like men knitting to hand sharpen knives. Orignal stuff.
You are the best knife content reviewer on you tube. Everyone else beside maybe Knife bro is the same and boring and probably doesn't use their knives like you and I do. Keep the content coming. I love Australian women's accent. Nothing hotter.
Love the finger tip tip
haha!! That Homer laugh took me out🤣 6:25
You’re so aggressive with the sharpening strokes sometimes😅😅😅🥲
I'm probably the target audience for that stone
In regards to portability, I don't like stones/systems that I cannot bring into the field! I travel alot for work and sometimes deploy out to places where all I can take is in a couple bags where I'll be out there for months, I need my knife sharp where I rely on it the most and to not be portable is much less valuable. I also like thin primary bevels with a small microbevel and having no angle guides there to get in the way is in my eyes a benefit.
Many times instead of moving the knife over the stone I also like to move the stone over the knife, especially on large blades. This method is fairly quick going and more precise than you'd assume after you get decent at it!
Finally I've heard CBN stones impart a better finish than diamond and last longer... I've got no experience here I mainly stick to diamond (venev!) and a fine stone not dissimilar to the ceramic side in finish (I prefer my translucent arkansas for finishing)
Based opinion on microbevels.
Yeah people get them completly wrong, they think its an increase in angle and duller, while in reality its adjustable.
Shallow transition bevel and normal angle microbevel edge is a LIFECHANGER, regarding sharpening.
I pity everyone which didnt discover this yet, and due to that spends way to long sharpening, and have an underperforming thick edge... 😅
Any experience with diamond/cbn rods? Might be really neat for portability and ease of use?
I need your haircut sir! Nevermind, I just woke up and I have it.
😃😁😉
That was not JUST a brick, for goodness sake!
Yes, I like my life to be as easily emulated as possible!
Currently travelling the globe on a bicycle with a CR folder and fixed blade. The double stuff keeps my blades keen without taking up much space. Also, I use the leather pouch as a strop.
This is the guy its absolutely for! ☝️☝️ glad to hear the doublestuff has found its people
A life saver in the field since a Tormek is not the most pocketable choice. Nerds may never know.
Backpack mounted tormek ftw
@@CedricAda 😂😂
I like your humor fun to watch and learn stuff.
Maybe try the in hand method but bring the stone to the knife instead of the other way around?
I was in need of a good chuckle, thanks Gollum fingees you gave me a few!
You definitely have a pair of Stone’s to try and master that Double Stuff...
You have 3 basic types of sharpening. No 1 being in the "field" and need to keep the edge working during the trip. Then restoring a very damaged edge and then restoring after a trip. No 1 should/could be handled by a small combi stone. The second may require a much better setup to get the correct angles and working through many grits. The 3rd just be done with fewer grits but with a good angel control. But all 3 needs a tour on the leather to be good.
I have one that I like for small jobs (thin regrind k390 manbug or dragonfly). With a TPT slide utility knife it is easier to sharpen the blade than change it.
Looks like it would be best for palm sized carving tools and carving knives. Something with small, usually flat ground edges an. The sharp corners and rounded bits would work well on sharpening the inside of carving gouges.
Really riding that analogy.......
Now I want a video of a Double Stuff sharpening on a unicycle
Dang, sharp acting, narrating, editing, etc.ing on this one 👍
Got the field sharpener, pretty happy with it. Have two Skerper double sided pocket stones, pretty good as well, only gripe being that on the one the diamond plate is not glued on in alignment with the ceramic stone.
Why have I never tried the eraser on the ceramic stones...😬
Hope it passed and flushed without pain or any other incident 😅
Why not leave the knife stationary and then move the stone at 15-19° across it?
I use 3” ice skating sharpener stones with ceramic dmt sides
You never use the whole stone, and you don’t filet yourself? You could also get one of those amazon $35 sharpening jigs and make an adapter? Some of those stones wear easy
Also smiths dmt field sharpener is waay better than the spyderco pocket sharpener
So, this smaller awkward working area made you really focus on the task and before you mentioned it, I’d noticed it also. I wouldn’t want to do it. I’ll make the field sharpener my smallest one. Now, I want to see you successfully sharpen using the sharpener on the Leatherman Signal.
I don't want no stinking overpriced tiny Spyderco. I want a honking great Shapton which gives me eight times the area and costs half the price.
I have two shapton glass stones and three kuromakus newly in and they are very nice
Lol to the table gashes. Been there. I use the db stuff 2 from my car. Use stone in hand
7:45 In this direction, it doesn't look much safer for your fingers than the hand-held option...
I have both and actually prefer the Double Stuff - once you get the knack of it it’s pretty straightforward. Plus I use a lot of SE knives and it’s great for doing those out in the field. The leather sheath makes a great strip too loaded with a bit of diamond paste. Each to their own 👍🏻
*strop. 🤬 autocorrect
That looks very different to my approximately 10 year old DoubleStuff. On mine the grey part is also some sort of stone-like (ceramic?) material, and the two sides are not so out of wack as yours. Just slightly, they almost line up perfectly. Mine also doesn't have that groove in the white part. Curious if they're still the same grit. Pouch is still the same btw. It's my fav on-the-go sharpener, I just freehand it like that video example you showed. I doused one side of the pouch in green jewelers paste to strop with.
Ahh yea its the number 2. The 2 is offset in construction and is CBN 400grit and Fine ceramic. I believe the doublestuff 1 was two types of ceramic and stacked symmetrical style?
@@CedricAda I had a look on the (dutch) website I bought mine from and they actually have both for sale. Not sure if it's older stock or that Spyderco still makes both but they list the course side on the nr. 2 as 220 versus 400 grit on the older one. The finer side is listed as 1000 to 3000 grit for both versions and both sides are ceramic on the older one. There's a bit of a price difference as well, 86 Euro for the nr. 2 versus 66 Euro for the original. Cheers!
I think the use I’d find for this is sharpening my khukuri. It’s a 13” beast with an inversely curved convex edge and I just can’t conceive how I’d sharpen it with benchstones.
Erasers clean strops also.
I have the old version of spyderco’s double sided mini stone all ceramic medium and fine works good for light sharpening definitely not something I’d use to completely redo an edge.
I'm just glad you were more honest about lionsteel m390. While their protocol is 60-61 it is the lowest performance m390 on the market due to the protocol they use.
I'd say the highest m390 you've tested is 60rc with cryo.
Ideally it would be great to get a 62rc Spyderco USA example for testing as well as a 60-61rc Reate m390 with secondary hardening (Reate has had a rash of 59rc m390).
I use edge pro stones in my hands to sharpen. Its not difficult after some practice. Table top is better though. Just annoying for smaller stones
someone was sayin in another comment here they’ve picked up the slack and pushed it into the lower 60’s now on newer knives, so thats nice of them I guess
@@CedricAda sadly the hardness doesnt matter if the protocol they use doesnt use cryo or uses the wrong temp and time to provide a microstructure that allows for wear resistance like other brands.
After repeated criticism Lionsteel has changed its hardening processes, newer knives should be better in this regard. For example, I own a Lionsteel Myto in K390 and the K390 steel is hardened to 64 hrc.
My 2 cents, part of it anyway lol, sharpening from home and not doing lots of hard to sharpen things and not changing the angle, get the entry level work sharp fixed angle. Want to change edge angle and or have more than one hard to sharpen knife steel? Get the KME, just picked one up for 244 USD , done 3 knives so far and way nicer than my entry level work sharp fixed angle. There’s places for this type, ( not in house ) and that only applies if you’re looking for best bang buy once cry one home based sharpener. Want a field sharpener? Well Pete has good reviews of them, like this one 🙂
I've been doing the two finger hold for 7 years ....then it happened . I will not be doing that style anymore . Took the pad almost off my middle finger two months ago . That type of cut is the worst , it bleeds so bad and if ya don't have any skin left it takes 4 weeks to fully heal.
I always bragged about it internally like ..." this is easy , I'd really have to screw up to cut myself " yadda yadda...
Don't do it . 😑
You have to be going too fast or not paying enough attention to have an accident if you're practiced in that technique. Hubris will get you every time, especially with sharp tools.
@GurtTarctor For me it was fine until I got a disc issue in my neck . Now I have to be way more careful cause of nerve problems in my arms and hands. It's best to just not do it in my opinion BUT honestly when I wasn't having hamd issues I always felt fine with it . That said unskilled folks should wear gloves or something until they get used to it.
To each their own , it does come down to skill but anyone can make a mistake even those who think they won't.
@@airiksknifereviews9548 Yeah if you've got physical problems like that then avoiding the technique makes sense. But I would say that for most people there's not a good reason to avoid the technique if they take it slow and careful initially.
If you think about food preparation with a knife and how close people have the edge to their fingers, they can do that because they use a particular technique and have developed the muscle memory to be able to do it safely. Of course you can cut yourself doing that and people often do, but people still do it because of how much control it affords. The analogy doesn't quite match with sharpening because bench top sharpening can give equally good results, but still I think it's reasonable because of the practical advantages a small stone between thumb/finger can give you.
DMT Diafold - like a unicycle with training wheels
It's the best!
Been using various duofolds for years on fixed blades and folders.
A great pocket sharpener for honing and damage correction, anywhere and anytime.
Oh wow he put the fan fare music in! He DOES read the comments! Lol
Jk hope your poor toe heals right up homie. You need to get yourself a genuine Frank Reynolds toe knife
that's exactly what I am looking for
Would it go in a stone holding system like ep , tsprof , etc ?
Also how many knives you think you could sharpen with work sharp ? Does it wear slow .. ? Thanks keep up the good work
The work sharp abraisives are very good. My field shapener is 6 years old now and has sharpened hundreds of times and the plates are still great.
I’ll buy one thanks
Some lures are made for catching fish. Some lures are made for catching fisherman. Spyderco often opts for the latter.
Love your videos mate 😆 awesome as always.
I want one of these things.
lmao at the couch sharpening. Another fun review.
Jesus, multiple genuinely guffaw points in this one. Top notch 😂😅
Definitely brought my B material. (B is as high as my material goes) Thanks 🤩
Looking good Petey 😍😍😍
Are you using a lot of pressure? Is it true that doing that rips the substrate out?
Love the videos! Great content!
pretty light pressure, maybe the relaxed weight of my forearm? Yes these things can come loose over time I have a couple kme stones from years ago that I ruined with pressure
@@CedricAda thanks!
Did the CBN side get less aggressive over time? Like what happens with Fällkniven DC3 diamond?
seems pretty good so far but only about 20 knives in to this point
herp derp! "all up in the guts of a Matriarch!"... Guts theme music... I'm on to you, anime-boi! ;)
The double stuff 2 is imho is the best pocket stone. That course cbn is money
With these stones one holds the knife still and moves the stone against the stationary blade.
FF ix sure had great music.
If you are hiking you can just take the diamond stones off of the work sharp
When you point out that things like this exist, it really confuses the "muh field sharpening" crowd who use that as the main justification in worshipping 420HC
Uncle Randy loves 420hc
shaptons have zero feedback, harder stones have zero feedback. but they're great for harder steels. softer stones are great if you like sharpening carbon steels coz you get great feedback.
is it worksharp channel now ?
this is a spyderco double stuff
I will stick with my work sharp
Cut your toe nails straight across instead of in a rounded shape ,
you will never have that problem again .
Haha😂
Nice prison tattoos
thanks i got them in horny jail
You giving me some Patricia Arquette mouth vibes…That makes me horny-
Made in USA CHINA..... wtf 😅
I am assuming the stones are made in the states and then sent to china to be glued and maybe the cases are chinese too? Most if not all of Spydercos other stones I’ve seen are US made so surely its the same factory making the actual abraisive. I thought this too though! World peace thru sharpening co-operation
itch ???? LOL OOOH ish HEHEHE
Made in USA/CHINA 🤔😂
Haha😂