Great video. Are you located in Sanford Florida? Do you carry pechauer pro series or Joss cues? I'm interested in either one but have never played a pechauer. Thanks
Thanks for watching. Yes. Sanford florida. We have pechauer cues in stock. Joss cues we can get you in 3 business days. Come by and check them out. Lowest prices anywhere.
@@coreyprentice9729 - There is a youtube review on the ASKA $49 cue. That would be my starter cue....best bang for the buck. Next would be the JFlowers for $320.
He's right in the price difference being the art work. HOWEVER, no two cues play the same. Doesn't matter if it's the same brand, from the same shop, made by the same man on the same machines. Each are different pieces of wood with their own unique grain, characteristics and quality. You simply have to pick them up, take some strokes/hits and find the right one for you. Showrooms don't let you chalk though so you will have a misconception of play regardless. You can't chalk and use english. It's like test driving a car but you're not allowed to go past 2nd gear.
@@rafaelgonzalez4175 That doesn't make anything I said less true. And I wouldn't recomend the same shitty buying experience for people just cuz it worked out for you. If you're spending hundreds/thousands, try gathering as much playing data as you can (if you have that option) and make sure it feels good to you.
@@chazly30 Hundreds or thousands. Well I bought my first sticks in 1989-90. I personally would not spend thousands on a cue stick. I am not the showoff type. And I don't know how anything you said is wrong. I just know I couldn't go around checking how well the shot is made with no tips on the sticks....
I dont worry much about the cue itself, the tip and the weight is what matters to me most... I have a $500 Joss and a $125 Cutec. I play the same with both.
So you compared identical shafts and tips with different butts and told your audience that the only difference in cue prices is the butt. Shafts range from $30-$600+. Tips from $1 to $30. Shaft turn downs cost extra. As do pro tapers. No mention of these things affecting the price. Your answer to anyone asking what the difference is between expensive and cheap cues is the butt design and nothing more. Ridiculous.
I am not into pool and was curious about knowing if you can really call it pool with what equipment you play at your bar down the street. I this looked at this video to know about the difference between a cheap and expensive cue. I am really sceptical about there being no other difference than design and craftsmanship...
@@lucsanglas8933 there are major differences. Look at other videos. Read about low deflection shafts, pro tapers, and differences in tips (actually the most important part of the stick).
Please do a deflection review of the Viking Vikore shaft. I have been able to prove this shaft has lower deflection than any of the shaft reviews I've seen on RUclips yet no one has done the test to show how much of a sleeper the Vikore shaft is. Viking will finally be on the map I'm not sure why the head of marketing over there does so poorly with letting the world know the low deflection of the Vikore and/or Siege...I would love to see someone else replicate the Vikore is much lower deflection than many if not all others on the market including Z3, Vantage, Cuetec CF etc...
I had a McDermott in the 80's and loved it until I left it in the trunk of my car in the summer time. I'm older now and I have to be thrifty so I picked up a pawn shop stick for $30 with a fiberglass shaft. After two years I'm very happy with it and it's streight as an arrow.
I agree with what you explained but as someone who is trying to get better at the game, I wanted to know what I should be looking for in a cue when comparing a cheap brand from Academy, vs a good brand from a specialty store.
Pechauer are soooo nice to play with. For sure recommend their low deflection shaft. Edit: Guys go try them if you're near this guy. Actually trying a cue beats any amount of forum posts/RUclips videos you'll watch.
true that, especially now, cue makers are making the butt diameter way too small, the wrap diameter. there is almost no taper to the butt sleeve area. then feel the cue, different tapers on shafts. different diameters, may like thicker 13.5 mm or 12.5 mm, etc. and weight, balance, etc. find a good shop with plenty mnfr. dont worry about price, at store, you can go internet shopping once home.
dont spend alot on first cue. once you get to playing, you will have a better feel for what you like and dislike. try a buddys cue. and diff. joints. my first cue was a ScHmelke, looked good, felt good in store. The cue played like crap. Then a Mali. After awhile thought taper was too fat. Then Joss, great butt size diam., had shaft retapered. Joss with tweaked shaft to my liking is best playing cue i have. and i have about 35 cues. Have to feel how you like the butt wrap diameter, pencil thin, or tapered down towards front or a little thicker 26.2 mm vs a 25mm front wrap diameter. Pretty much back of butts are 30mm at wrap.
I had a Tad cue back in the early 70's. Best cue I've ever played and the manufacturing was unbelievable. You couldn't tell where the shaft and butt screwed together.
I am 8o years old my friend played pool with the master of cue making george balabushka he had a shop in bay ridge brooklyn new york almost every cue was made useing willie hoppie one piece cues the going price for a basic balabushka cue was under 100 dollars the cue were wrapped in irish linen and the buck horns were ivory ps most of his cues were not for sale to the general public lf he knew you you had a chance of having him make one for you the golden cue poolroom in queens new york was were george played with my friend my friend was a billiard player and liked a heavy cue balabushka made a one of a kind ebony wood cue with inlays to this day he still has the cue ps a pro offered him twenty five hundred he turned it down!!
'Pretty' is useless. The less decoration the better. Everything important is in the tightness of the construction, the woods used, and the skill of the maker. It would be useless to go into detail about it, there's not enough room here to write half of it. But go to a place where you can actually put your hands on the cues, check the straightness, and how clean and tight the connection is when you put it together, and then take it with your hand on the very end of the butt and reach out and tap the table, the rails, the balls to feel the feedback from the tip. Like a blind man checking out his surroundings. With a good cue you'll be able to tell the difference. Doesn't matter what it looks like, you can play around with weight all you want, but that's my opinion on cue selection.
I tried Efren Bata Reyes' $1000 cue stick and still couldn't make the shot. He used my $25 cue stick and still pockets everything with man purse on his side and a cigarette inbetween index and f/u finger.
I have a 20 year old Viking and wanted to know if any screw on carbon fiber shaft would fit it? Would you have a carbon fiber shaft that would fit it? I can't try one out because no one has a store anywhere around my location.
So an 11.5mm LD-shaft with a super-soft tip is the same as a 13mm with a hard tip? I look at it this way: Barry Bonds will hit more home runs with a 28 ounce ash bat than a high school player will hit with a perfect 32 ounce aluminum bat. However, Bonds would not have hit more home runs than Mark McGuire in the same circumstance. Similarly, if you put an NBA team playing on an ordinary hoop vs. a high school team playing on a hoola-hoop, the NBA team will win. However, if it's two NBA teams playing against one another, then the one shooting at the giant basket will win.
That's not really true. If you get used to house cues yeah, but half the time the tips on them are mushroomed or damaged. Cue tip and shaft matter more than the cue no doubt, so you'd be right if you said the cue doesn't matter because it makes maybe about 10% of the feel when you hit the ball and 90% is in the tip and shaft and overall weight in oz. I switched from a Kamui Black soft tip to a Kamui Clear Black medium tip and with my first tip I thought I was garbage and my cue didn't work well, tried the medium tip and now all my shots feel true and like they're laser guided with my play style. I didn't like the soft tip except when it was brand new.
False. Tip is the first indicator of a good player. Then every shaft optimizes impact differently. Vibration, weight, length, tapered or not, string or wrap. Variations make a huge difference in playing. Skill over beginner. When learning pool/billiards/snooker having the advantage of both a good stick and preferred tip would make for a better experience. And no, practice does not make you better, each table plays differently. Speed and friction, Bounce from edges. Corners are wider or smaller. Practice all you want. using different tables makes you better...
I gotta put my "2 cents in"...I bought a Dufferin green leaf sneaky pete at a yard sale. It is warped on the shaft and the butt. My wife plays with it, and my $500 Benson gets smoked by it sometimes. She named it "Warpie" and she loves it. It's not the cue, it's the player....
These cues remind me of when you buy a Les Paul. I mean you know you're good but are you Les Paul good? I've seen many people embarrassed by a barbecue with their $500 stick and their shooting glove.
If you're a beginner-intermediate player and you're buying a $500 cue you should get your head examined haha. If you're intermediate-advanced you should be focusing on the cue tip/shaft and purchase any premium well made cue between $150-500 at the very max. When you get above $300-400 it's just like jewelry they don't play any better unless you're paying for a carbon fiber shaft that comes with the cue.
Does a high-end cue make you a better player ? You bet, because the mere fact is that you play more often with a prized cue. Like an exotic high-end Italian bike will be you a better biker because you just want to ride more often.
Great video. But I would think that graphite shafts vs. wood, different types of wood, different ferrule materials, different tip materials and shapes, etc. all play into not only a cue stick's price, but how well it shoots. We all know that it's at least 90% and probably more than that on the shooter, but as with just about anything you can buy, there is a sweet spot where materials, construction, features, performance, and price meet. If the price difference was only about inlays and graphics, then all the technology stuff is meaningless which I find hard to believe.
I don't. Think of how many products are sold solely from marketing or propaganda. Like gym equipment, diets, fishing equipment, anything.... I'm thankful this guy is giving an honest opinion. I'd pay more for product to purchase from someone trustworthy, than have to question their advice for a sales pitch or haggle.
In the beginning of your video you say that all the cue's play the same then near the end you say they play different? That is what makes one cue more expensive than the others, not just the inlays. So do a video on that?
Volume normalization plz. Had to turn way up to hear but got blown away by the intro. Good video though; I don't care much for the fancy designs. If it plays well, I'm happy.
I pulled a house stick off the wall and kept winning all night. Guys were calling their buddies with pricey cues to show up, did nit matter, I kept winning... The cue means nothing, it's the players ability. Just because you buy a $300 cue, does not mean your ability goes up.
I respectfully disagree, that grades of anything...make no difference, whatsoever. I'd concede that you do reach, a level of diminishing returns; as you would near any manufactures, apex products. There is less difference, between a $8000 Martin guitar, and a $80,000 Martin guitar; than there would be, between a $200 cardboard box guitar, and a fairly nice $2500 Martin guitar. The higher-end you get, prestige, embellishments, and details...will begin to set, the classes apart. Taking a step up, from bargain basement, to a "mid-grade", or "entry-premium" item...always gets you considerable value, for money. I would contest those, who'd argue, that a premium cue, freshly produced from your case...will indeed deliver, a more enjoyable game; than the house cue, that Big Hoss has been leaning against, and sword fighting with, all night long. Your mileage, could possibly vary; but unless we are from different realities...only, by very little.
I'm not sure that's what he was saying, but I totally agree with you. I'm looking at buying a cue, and I've been almost exclusively using house cues. On the few occasions that someone let me use a nice pool cue, it has been like playing a totally different game. They almost always stop letting me use the nice cue pretty quickly, which I'm sure has nothing to do with how much it improves my play ;). Not only do high-quality cues make pool MUCH easier, but even higher-quality house cues make a difference. Everyone saying it doesn't matter is full of it - I think they say that to discourage others from enjoying the same advantage they enjoy. If you make someone who has a nice cue play with a house cue, A) They usually won't even agree to play, and B) When they do play, their game goes down a couple of notches. If it didn't matter, it would be a huge flex for a pro at a tournament to just grab a house cue and clean house, but it really really matters, so literally no professional pool player does that.
As for what he was saying, I think he's saying that the cues with fancy inlays are basically the same as the comparable cue without fancy inlays. I don't think he meant that a $60 cue is as good as a $300 cue. He could have been more clear about that though.
@@gunzborgia1403 True, to an extent, but I just ordered an LD shaft, and she mentioned she had one with a blemish on it. I said I didn't care about looks, and she said, "Well then you're the only one." She refused to sell it to me, probably because they don't want blemishes to be associated with their brand. She was nice, and found me one with no blemishes. But yeah, I guess people REALLY care about how a cue looks.
*DID YOU XRAY A VIKING CUE AND A VALLHALLA CUE? TO SAY PUBLICLY THAT VIKING CONSTRUCTS THE BUTTS EXACTLY THE SAME? THAT THE VALLHALLA DONT USE A LESSER, CHEAPER WAY TO GLUE THE BUTTS, CONSTRUCT THE BUTTS. AS WELL AS VIKING USING BETTER SHAFT WOOD, BETTER GRADE MAPLE, ETC.*
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. Are you located in Sanford Florida? Do you carry pechauer pro series or Joss cues? I'm interested in either one but have never played a pechauer. Thanks
Thanks for watching. Yes. Sanford florida. We have pechauer cues in stock. Joss cues we can get you in 3 business days. Come by and check them out. Lowest prices anywhere.
@@LearnBilliards I'm starting with an entry level cue stick by classic sports.
@@MrET114the $40 one isn’t bad. I actually keep a 22 ounce for a break cue :)
My
@@coreyprentice9729 - There is a youtube review on the ASKA $49 cue. That would be my starter cue....best bang for the buck.
Next would be the JFlowers for $320.
He's right in the price difference being the art work. HOWEVER, no two cues play the same. Doesn't matter if it's the same brand, from the same shop, made by the same man on the same machines. Each are different pieces of wood with their own unique grain, characteristics and quality. You simply have to pick them up, take some strokes/hits and find the right one for you. Showrooms don't let you chalk though so you will have a misconception of play regardless. You can't chalk and use english. It's like test driving a car but you're not allowed to go past 2nd gear.
Not sure about you but when I purchased my stick it had no tip. Using weight and swing was my only option...
@@rafaelgonzalez4175 That doesn't make anything I said less true. And I wouldn't recomend the same shitty buying experience for people just cuz it worked out for you. If you're spending hundreds/thousands, try gathering as much playing data as you can (if you have that option) and make sure it feels good to you.
@@chazly30 Hundreds or thousands. Well I bought my first sticks in 1989-90. I personally would not spend thousands on a cue stick. I am not the showoff type. And I don't know how anything you said is wrong. I just know I couldn't go around checking how well the shot is made with no tips on the sticks....
Brother you could have made this vid in 15 seconds.
"They play the same, you're paying for artwork"
I dont worry much about the cue itself, the tip and the weight is what matters to me most... I have a $500 Joss and a $125 Cutec. I play the same with both.
I started with a players brand, nice beginner cue. Then moved to pechauer, I have owned 2. Pechauer is by far my favorite.
Love pechauer
Very well explained. And to the point, not too many people know that the cost is mostly on the decor part.
News flash: it's not the cue, it's the operator.
So you compared identical shafts and tips with different butts and told your audience that the only difference in cue prices is the butt. Shafts range from $30-$600+. Tips from $1 to $30. Shaft turn downs cost extra. As do pro tapers. No mention of these things affecting the price. Your answer to anyone asking what the difference is between expensive and cheap cues is the butt design and nothing more. Ridiculous.
I am not into pool and was curious about knowing if you can really call it pool with what equipment you play at your bar down the street. I this looked at this video to know about the difference between a cheap and expensive cue. I am really sceptical about there being no other difference than design and craftsmanship...
@@lucsanglas8933 there are major differences. Look at other videos. Read about low deflection shafts, pro tapers, and differences in tips (actually the most important part of the stick).
Literally all he saying is its your preference they play the same but if you want your cue to have art it'll cost you nerd settle down
@@luecam8704 his advice is so bad, it's misinformation.
Ut-Woik? A Mook?
Please do a deflection review of the Viking Vikore shaft. I have been able to prove this shaft has lower deflection than any of the shaft reviews I've seen on RUclips yet no one has done the test to show how much of a sleeper the Vikore shaft is. Viking will finally be on the map I'm not sure why the head of marketing over there does so poorly with letting the world know the low deflection of the Vikore and/or Siege...I would love to see someone else replicate the Vikore is much lower deflection than many if not all others on the market including Z3, Vantage, Cuetec CF etc...
I had a McDermott in the 80's and loved it until I left it in the trunk of my car in the summer time. I'm older now and I have to be thrifty so I picked up a pawn shop stick for $30 with a fiberglass shaft. After two years I'm very happy with it and it's streight as an arrow.
Hmm, I never thought about that. Makes sense though. Here in TX, I should probably worry about that warping.
I have a Old Meucci Red Dot. One of the best sticks I've ever used. $600 30 years ago.
The best cue for all beginners to advanced player who wanna save would be the Viking Valhalla imo.
Agreed
I agree with what you explained but as someone who is trying to get better at the game, I wanted to know what I should be looking for in a cue when comparing a cheap brand from Academy, vs a good brand from a specialty store.
My Scruggs sneak a peak 17 oz was the best playing cue i ever owned i wish i own it now.😞
Pechauer are soooo nice to play with. For sure recommend their low deflection shaft.
Edit: Guys go try them if you're near this guy. Actually trying a cue beats any amount of forum posts/RUclips videos you'll watch.
true that, especially now, cue makers are making the butt diameter way too small, the wrap diameter. there is almost no taper to the butt sleeve area. then feel the cue, different tapers on shafts. different diameters, may like thicker 13.5 mm or 12.5 mm, etc. and weight, balance, etc. find a good shop with plenty mnfr. dont worry about price, at store, you can go internet shopping once home.
Cool video! Real, down to earth explanations about where the extra money goes and all that. Thanks a ton for that :)
Thanks for watching
It was a video on Efren Reyes playing for many years with a £20 cue that brought me here, so what the hell does that mean?
dont spend alot on first cue. once you get to playing, you will have a better feel for what you like and dislike. try a buddys cue. and diff. joints. my first cue was a ScHmelke, looked good, felt good in store. The cue played like crap. Then a Mali. After awhile thought taper was too fat. Then Joss, great butt size diam., had shaft retapered. Joss with tweaked shaft to my liking is best playing cue i have. and i have about 35 cues. Have to feel how you like the butt wrap diameter, pencil thin, or tapered down towards front or a little thicker 26.2 mm vs a 25mm front wrap diameter. Pretty much back of butts are 30mm at wrap.
I had a Tad cue back in the early 70's. Best cue I've ever played and the manufacturing was unbelievable. You couldn't tell where the shaft and butt screwed together.
Tads are hard to find and demand a premium. Understanding is they came with a very small diameter butt/wrap area. one has to like a narrow butt.
@tinyhomelivingmagazine9159 I never noticed any difference in the butt of the cue. I bought my Tad from someone for a 100 dollars. It was a steal.
I have a Viking B5021 hope it's z good one. I do like it; it was expensive. Let me know what you think of that que, please.
I am 8o years old my friend played pool with the master of cue making george balabushka he had a shop in bay ridge brooklyn new york almost every cue was made useing willie hoppie one piece cues the going price for a basic balabushka cue was under 100 dollars the cue were wrapped in irish linen and the buck horns were ivory ps most of his cues were not for sale to the general public lf he knew you you had a chance of having him make one for you the golden cue poolroom in queens new york was were george played with my friend my friend was a billiard player and liked a heavy cue balabushka made a one of a kind ebony wood cue with inlays to this day he still has the cue ps a pro offered him twenty five hundred he turned it down!!
one of a kind has more value than money....terrific story...
Great information I remember that pool cue I remember the Golden Q I used to play there in the 60s and 70s
I bought a lot for cues, some high-end, some low-end, and price doesn't affect how it plays.
'Pretty' is useless. The less decoration the better. Everything important is in the tightness of the construction, the woods used, and the skill of the maker. It would be useless to go into detail about it, there's not enough room here to write half of it. But go to a place where you can actually put your hands on the cues, check the straightness, and how clean and tight the connection is when you put it together, and then take it with your hand on the very end of the butt and reach out and tap the table, the rails, the balls to feel the feedback from the tip. Like a blind man checking out his surroundings. With a good cue you'll be able to tell the difference. Doesn't matter what it looks like, you can play around with weight all you want, but that's my opinion on cue selection.
I tried Efren Bata Reyes' $1000 cue stick and still couldn't make the shot. He used my $25 cue stick and still pockets everything with man purse on his side and a cigarette inbetween index and f/u finger.
Thank you~! GREAT VIDEO. Quick question, at what price point do the cues not get any better, just prettier?
If you invest in the best shaft and best tip, and go super cheap on the butt, then anything above $600 will not improve cue performance.
Over 20 years with a $400 dollar Mali. Never found the need to look at any others. Retired now and the cue went with the table for others to enjoy.
I have a 20 year old Viking and wanted to know if any screw on carbon fiber shaft would fit it? Would you have a carbon fiber shaft that would fit it? I can't try one out because no one has a store anywhere around my location.
Great video, and i love that you have a large selection to test! I need a new break/jump and id love to try a few new cues out. See you soon!
All pool cue plays the same doesn’t matter if it’s $100 or $10000 cue
All comes out to preference
Practice make you better
Yeah the player, stroke, bridge, and stance matters so much more than the cue...I play fine with house cues it's all the same
So an 11.5mm LD-shaft with a super-soft tip is the same as a 13mm with a hard tip?
I look at it this way: Barry Bonds will hit more home runs with a 28 ounce ash bat than a high school player will hit with a perfect 32 ounce aluminum bat. However, Bonds would not have hit more home runs than Mark McGuire in the same circumstance.
Similarly, if you put an NBA team playing on an ordinary hoop vs. a high school team playing on a hoola-hoop, the NBA team will win. However, if it's two NBA teams playing against one another, then the one shooting at the giant basket will win.
Not true… tips, shafts stiffness and cue weights have a lot to do with it.
That's not really true. If you get used to house cues yeah, but half the time the tips on them are mushroomed or damaged. Cue tip and shaft matter more than the cue no doubt, so you'd be right if you said the cue doesn't matter because it makes maybe about 10% of the feel when you hit the ball and 90% is in the tip and shaft and overall weight in oz. I switched from a Kamui Black soft tip to a Kamui Clear Black medium tip and with my first tip I thought I was garbage and my cue didn't work well, tried the medium tip and now all my shots feel true and like they're laser guided with my play style. I didn't like the soft tip except when it was brand new.
False. Tip is the first indicator of a good player. Then every shaft optimizes impact differently. Vibration, weight, length, tapered or not, string or wrap. Variations make a huge difference in playing. Skill over beginner. When learning pool/billiards/snooker having the advantage of both a good stick and preferred tip would make for a better experience. And no, practice does not make you better, each table plays differently. Speed and friction, Bounce from edges. Corners are wider or smaller. Practice all you want. using different tables makes you better...
I learned something today -ty
I gotta put my "2 cents in"...I bought a Dufferin green leaf sneaky pete at a yard sale. It is warped on the shaft and the butt. My wife plays with it, and my $500 Benson gets smoked by it sometimes. She named it "Warpie" and she loves it. It's not the cue, it's the player....
The only guy that keeps it real.
Good analysis. Always wondered about price differences
Hello, does the weight of the pool cue matter; or should I be able to work any pool cue regardless the weight. I'm just beginning. . .lol
Nice video, a lot of people do not understand that.
Thanks for watching
Great straight forward video!!
Thanks for watching
It depends whose holding it EFRIN won games with 15 dollar ques
Been playing billiard for 5years but mot having a pool cue, couldnt afford it 😔
These cues remind me of when you buy a Les Paul. I mean you know you're good but are you Les Paul good? I've seen many people embarrassed by a barbecue with their $500 stick and their shooting glove.
If you're a beginner-intermediate player and you're buying a $500 cue you should get your head examined haha. If you're intermediate-advanced you should be focusing on the cue tip/shaft and purchase any premium well made cue between $150-500 at the very max. When you get above $300-400 it's just like jewelry they don't play any better unless you're paying for a carbon fiber shaft that comes with the cue.
The difference between a $60 cue and a $600 cue is $540.
Ever play with a Mali? If so what'd you think?
Very good explanation
Thank you for your response
Thanks for the video.
Good information! Thanks for your time
Thanks for watching
Hey it's not the arrow it's the indian. 😎😎
Wounded knee dance!!!
Thanks a lot for the nice video !Very nice explained and very useful !
Thanks for watching
What is the difference between breads
Good stuff ! Thanks man
Does a high-end cue make you a better player ? You bet, because the mere fact is that you play more often with a prized cue. Like an exotic high-end Italian bike will be you a better biker because you just want to ride more often.
Great video. But I would think that graphite shafts vs. wood, different types of wood, different ferrule materials, different tip materials and shapes, etc. all play into not only a cue stick's price, but how well it shoots.
We all know that it's at least 90% and probably more than that on the shooter, but as with just about anything you can buy, there is a sweet spot where materials, construction, features, performance, and price meet. If the price difference was only about inlays and graphics, then all the technology stuff is meaningless which I find hard to believe.
Exactly my thoughts..hard to believe
I don't. Think of how many products are sold solely from marketing or propaganda. Like gym equipment, diets, fishing equipment, anything....
I'm thankful this guy is giving an honest opinion. I'd pay more for product to purchase from someone trustworthy, than have to question their advice for a sales pitch or haggle.
Thank you so much!
My cue is 40 bucks and it serves me fine but I need a new cue
Thank you
In the beginning of your video you say that all the cue's play the same then near the end you say they play different? That is what makes one cue more expensive than the others, not just the inlays. So do a video on that?
And that's exactly what I tell my customers!
Mag kano po ang OB klassick
Efron Rayes don't spend lavishly and stays with the same stick as long as it feels good to him.
Volume normalization plz. Had to turn way up to hear but got blown away by the intro. Good video though; I don't care much for the fancy designs. If it plays well, I'm happy.
Just tried a 180.00 Pure X cue and it blew me away. I'll never ever buy an expensive cue again.
I like Meucci
Funny thing is, is Efron would kick all your asses with a $5 broomstick
You can't even spell his name right. Tool
Answer: 95% will never get good enough to benefit from it.
I'm going to save everyone from having to watch this video. The difference between cues is the fancy ones cost more than the plain ones.
I pulled a house stick off the wall and kept winning all night. Guys were calling their buddies with pricey cues to show up, did nit matter, I kept winning...
The cue means nothing, it's the players ability.
Just because you buy a $300 cue, does not mean your ability goes up.
I respectfully disagree, that grades of anything...make no difference, whatsoever. I'd concede that you do reach, a level of diminishing returns; as you would near any manufactures, apex products. There is less difference, between a $8000 Martin guitar, and a $80,000 Martin guitar; than there would be, between a $200 cardboard box guitar, and a fairly nice $2500 Martin guitar. The higher-end you get, prestige, embellishments, and details...will begin to set, the classes apart. Taking a step up, from bargain basement, to a "mid-grade", or "entry-premium" item...always gets you considerable value, for money. I would contest those, who'd argue, that a premium cue, freshly produced from your case...will indeed deliver, a more enjoyable game; than the house cue, that Big Hoss has been leaning against, and sword fighting with, all night long. Your mileage, could possibly vary; but unless we are from different realities...only, by very little.
Jesus you trying to reach a word count for an essay or what lmao
I'm not sure that's what he was saying, but I totally agree with you.
I'm looking at buying a cue, and I've been almost exclusively using house cues. On the few occasions that someone let me use a nice pool cue, it has been like playing a totally different game. They almost always stop letting me use the nice cue pretty quickly, which I'm sure has nothing to do with how much it improves my play ;).
Not only do high-quality cues make pool MUCH easier, but even higher-quality house cues make a difference.
Everyone saying it doesn't matter is full of it - I think they say that to discourage others from enjoying the same advantage they enjoy. If you make someone who has a nice cue play with a house cue, A) They usually won't even agree to play, and B) When they do play, their game goes down a couple of notches.
If it didn't matter, it would be a huge flex for a pro at a tournament to just grab a house cue and clean house, but it really really matters, so literally no professional pool player does that.
As for what he was saying, I think he's saying that the cues with fancy inlays are basically the same as the comparable cue without fancy inlays. I don't think he meant that a $60 cue is as good as a $300 cue. He could have been more clear about that though.
@@myblacklab7 exactly. Or a sneaky Pete wouldn’t be $1200 because it has no inlays. You’re paying for the performance and name brand.
@@gunzborgia1403 True, to an extent, but I just ordered an LD shaft, and she mentioned she had one with a blemish on it. I said I didn't care about looks, and she said, "Well then you're the only one." She refused to sell it to me, probably because they don't want blemishes to be associated with their brand.
She was nice, and found me one with no blemishes. But yeah, I guess people REALLY care about how a cue looks.
*DID YOU XRAY A VIKING CUE AND A VALLHALLA CUE? TO SAY PUBLICLY THAT VIKING CONSTRUCTS THE BUTTS EXACTLY THE SAME? THAT THE VALLHALLA DONT USE A LESSER, CHEAPER WAY TO GLUE THE BUTTS, CONSTRUCT THE BUTTS. AS WELL AS VIKING USING BETTER SHAFT WOOD, BETTER GRADE MAPLE, ETC.*
This vid is ridiculous
tell me the difference is between a $2500. dollar cue to a 25 cent hand's ?
What about the sheriff
What is the difference between breads