How not to surf Puerto Escondido

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  • Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
  • This wave was the first wave I ever caught in Puerto, and she sure gave me a welcome! Filmed with a go pro I'm my mouth and by Daniel Flash Navara (R.I.P Legend for ever and always)

Комментарии • 391

  • @lihxc
    @lihxc 8 лет назад +222

    This is one of those times when you finally get in onto the shore and say to yourself: "Yep....I'm done."

    • @calebd512
      @calebd512 7 лет назад +2

      lihxc sounds like the first time I actually tried go surf. never could even make it out there...

    • @xxxzxxx1234
      @xxxzxxx1234 7 лет назад +16

      So relatable!! I was taking a lesson in Puerto Rico and this happened. It was my first time in overhead waves and it was 8 feet and heavy. Had a 2 wave hold down with at least 6 somersaults and like 2 more with just three breaths in between. When I finally got out I just sat down in the first beach chair I could find. That was enough for one day. Even though I was only ten minutes in. I didn't even care the instructor was just shaking his head

    • @xacute2937
      @xacute2937 7 лет назад +8

      "Man I can't leave like this", And then goes back.

    • @aracuscesar
      @aracuscesar 7 лет назад +6

      more like "Yep....I´m done.... for today"

    • @eyespy3001
      @eyespy3001 7 лет назад +6

      magentawave
      If you want the ultimate, you've got to be willing to pay the ultimate price.
      Doesn't it feel great, though, knowing that you put yourself in that kind of situation and came out the other end unscathed? It's the ultimate learning experience.

  • @louisanthony266
    @louisanthony266 7 лет назад +210

    It's crazy how GoPro makes waves look smaller

  • @takfam07
    @takfam07 6 лет назад +152

    Only about 12-15 seconds per hold down. Yet it feels too long. (That's what she said). But seriously, I live on Oahu and in big swells this fear is primary. Most everyday surfers like me surf three-foot waves (Hawaiian scale= 6-to-7 foot faces) or less, 90% of the time.
    But when it starts to get double and then triple overhead, the ocean is moving and forceful. Normal lineups shift and change, breaking much further out and on a vaster canvas. There's nowhere to run and hide from the avalanches of whitewater coming your way. Your usual takeoff spot is now a cement mixer inside section. You're much more exhausted than usual, paddling hard to stay in position while avoiding the detonations. Lots more ground to cover.
    Then you get lip-launched on the first wave of an eight-wave set, and find out right away what kind of physical shape you're in.

    • @Dylxo
      @Dylxo 5 лет назад +3

      takfam07 Very well written. Cheers for the insight. Sounds gnarly!

    • @SurferKroky
      @SurferKroky 5 лет назад +5

      Yep when it gets to a certain size everything changes . The adrenaline literally doubles .

    • @Jay-fq8uz
      @Jay-fq8uz 4 года назад +1

      And mental hahahha

    • @jeffhartwig5283
      @jeffhartwig5283 3 года назад +1

      Word

    • @pres10beats36
      @pres10beats36 3 года назад

      I live on oahu too and grew up surfing all the zones. I keep it mellow, dont surf much over 3-4ft Hawaiian. Beginning of this year I was all stoned bodysurfing keiki and took 8 6ft sets on the head. Thought I was gonna die brah so outta breath! Jumped from 4ft-6ft Hawaiian. I got straight licked....

  • @stefanzomods
    @stefanzomods 8 лет назад +120

    "holy fuck" fuckin handled it like a beast, props

    • @mvygantas
      @mvygantas 7 лет назад +4

      i burst out laughing when he said that. what a stud, that is some serious shite.

  • @boxhawk5070
    @boxhawk5070 8 лет назад +76

    Now I know how my clothes feel inside the washing machine....

  • @joeygale4659
    @joeygale4659 8 лет назад +321

    never take the first wave...

    • @mookroo1892
      @mookroo1892 8 лет назад +5

      I dont get that saying

    • @joeygale4659
      @joeygale4659 8 лет назад +66

      If you take the first wave of a set, there are going to be more usually larger waves behind it to drown you

    • @chrisdavenportshoots7479
      @chrisdavenportshoots7479 8 лет назад +8

      +Moo Kroo you normally want to take one of the last waves of the set so that 1) your paddle back out to the lineup is easier and 3) the wave Is normally bigger

    • @chrisdavenportshoots7479
      @chrisdavenportshoots7479 8 лет назад

      +Jerry Gaper 2)*

    • @Mungadungalis
      @Mungadungalis 8 лет назад +12

      If you do take the first wave, make sure you don't eat it. :)

  • @rebeccawells7643
    @rebeccawells7643 8 лет назад +76

    Big lockdown, well done for staying calm and taking deep breaths, this is how some people die when they panic in this situation.

  • @adam__smith
    @adam__smith 7 лет назад +177

    Who else unconsciously held their breath while he was underwater?

    • @co8539
      @co8539 7 лет назад +8

      Adam Smith it was only about 10-15 seconds each hold down but I couldn't imagine the force on your body from waves like that. Never even came close to surfing something like puerto

    • @zachecho9167
      @zachecho9167 7 лет назад +9

      I've gotten beatings in only 9ft surf, it's so intense, your lungs are burning from the breath holds and your head aches from lack of oxygen plus your heart is racing which makes everything worse, my worst beating only lasted 2 minutes but it felt like ages

    • @keepitfresh1600
      @keepitfresh1600 7 лет назад

      Adam Smith how'd you know lmao

    • @gabyhohbach9215
      @gabyhohbach9215 6 лет назад +1

      Me

    • @oliverelliott6770
      @oliverelliott6770 5 лет назад +1

      Me

  • @benpowersification
    @benpowersification 8 лет назад +97

    How much fun wasn't that?!

  • @ricklloyd9267
    @ricklloyd9267 8 лет назад +6

    Love it. I remember my first Puerto wave. My buddies told me when you think you have the wave take a few more paddles to make sure you make it down the face. I forgot! When I thought I had the wave, I stood up like I done a thousand times before on non-Puerto waves. I got pitched right over the top> I got pounded and worked. Lost my board. Finally made it to shore with about 1/2 the sand from the beach up my ass and nostrils. Finally found my board down the beach, luckily still in one piece. It is a moment burned in my memory. The next day I remembered and caught the best wave of my life. I was hooked. Eventually, I got my timing down and caught plenty of waves, but even still had some pretty nasty wipe outs, but none quite like that first one.

    • @eljeffe59
      @eljeffe59 4 года назад +1

      Rick Lloyd my first wave there was almost exactly the same. It took me two weeks of pretty serious beatings to get it wired. But all I had was a 6-9, which is too small for double overhead puerto. I have no idea how that board survived without breaking with all the gas I took there.

    • @eljeffe59
      @eljeffe59 2 года назад

      My first wave in ‘85 was much the same. Got pitched on a backside takeoff, landed on my head in the trough, almost broke my eardrum. It took me a week of beatings before I got the drop down. Foolishly riding a 6-9 in double overhead Puerto. But it was all I had, being young and poor!

  • @eljeffe59
    @eljeffe59 4 года назад +2

    Been there, done that in Puerto. Mowed by a 30 foot wave one fine day, it took me 20 0r 30 minutes of swimming and getting slammed by many, many waves to make the final 30 yards to the beach. I found my board hours later way down the beach. I was so exhausted that I just laid on the sand for half an hour before I could get up.

    • @helderayon4357
      @helderayon4357 2 года назад +1

      That make 2 of us dude, what a ride Hu?

  • @b4ssfunk3d
    @b4ssfunk3d 4 года назад +3

    I feel like when you get thrashed around that hard you see red for a second like on the camera when your eyes are closed. This is a unique perspective, not many people are going to show you the reality of surfing waves this big.

  • @jtlachappelle
    @jtlachappelle 7 лет назад +6

    0:30 he says 'fuck this'
    Badass vid. Usually its vids of guys showing how cool they are or whatever, but this guy shows himself getting his shit packed in the nastiest washing machine ever. Good stuff.

  • @imaliastv4125
    @imaliastv4125 7 лет назад +17

    Anybody else find themselves holding their breath with him while he was getting worked. Taz you mad man

  • @mcflyboarder9537
    @mcflyboarder9537 3 года назад +5

    I was in hysterics when he said “holy fuck!” I can’t count how many times I’ve uttered those same words in that exact same scenario.

  • @JohnDrach
    @JohnDrach 8 лет назад +6

    I've had those days. You know it's bad when you can see people on the beach contemplating swimming out to help you in

  • @agentszero
    @agentszero 8 лет назад +31

    Only seconds on video but seems like a lifetime when you're under. Not to mention you're getting thrashed around. Good job not losing the camera. ;)

    • @t33can
      @t33can 8 лет назад +2

      +Kelly M yeah, and it's also that you don't have a timer that says 'only 3 seconds left'. Just staying cool and not panicking is easier said than done.

    • @whiteowl1916
      @whiteowl1916 5 лет назад

      @mistic mind rule #1 NEVER panic. stay calm. #2 control your breathing.

  • @lukasconrad7732
    @lukasconrad7732 6 лет назад +36

    This is me on a day thats 4-6 ft and im surfing a beach break

    • @keithw4039
      @keithw4039 5 лет назад +8

      Puerto is a beach break...

  • @callumwells
    @callumwells 7 лет назад +22

    I take my hat off to you dude... I get zonked after copping a few four-footers on the head!

    • @grantsw1
      @grantsw1 4 года назад

      Callum Wells 4footer? That was like a 13 footer

    • @callumwells
      @callumwells 4 года назад +2

      Grant Woollaston I’m not saying that’s four foot. I’m saying I get zonked copping four footers on the head, and he’s powering through those monsters.

  • @AndyHaumersen
    @AndyHaumersen 8 лет назад +35

    Had me gasping for breath at my desk!

    • @juanfo7307
      @juanfo7307 8 лет назад +1

      +Andy Haumersen choking on the foam

  • @ReelCrazyFishing33
    @ReelCrazyFishing33 8 лет назад +104

    Well hello there anxiety...

    • @Miister00
      @Miister00 8 лет назад +18

      Hello darkness my old friend..

    • @bgcarter1
      @bgcarter1 4 года назад +1

      There to test that voice in your head that tells you to stay calm....

  • @iglooproductions
    @iglooproductions 7 лет назад +29

    This is me in waves anywhere over 4 feet.

  • @ArrowTrajectory
    @ArrowTrajectory 8 лет назад +2

    That was epic! The whole "washing-machine" effect was well documented. Brought back memories. Sorry you had to take a beating to get that footage, but if anyone wonders what surfing big waves entails, this vid is classroom material. Respect..

  • @richthetrashpicker-upper5244
    @richthetrashpicker-upper5244 3 года назад +1

    This is a horror flick my heart's pumping I've been there broken leashes broken head come close to Drowning twice wouldn't trade it for anything that's living man thanks for the video you're awesome

  • @silversurfer512
    @silversurfer512 5 лет назад +1

    This is what makes us feel alive.
    This is what makes us vivid.
    We love that feeling. Don't we?
    Only real surfers know the feeling.

    • @randylal7841
      @randylal7841 4 года назад

      True that try ghost Monterey or will make feel a live or you guessed it!

  • @131rocketman
    @131rocketman 8 лет назад +105

    Thats why i surf with full scuba gear on, and with a full tank ;)

    • @blazeit3860
      @blazeit3860 8 лет назад

      +131rocketman wouldn't that make surfing difficult?

    • @131rocketman
      @131rocketman 8 лет назад +29

      The focus is to make surviving less difficult

    • @blazeit3860
      @blazeit3860 8 лет назад +1

      yeah true well if it works why not haha i just thought it might make the surfing a bit harder.

    • @solsist__3291
      @solsist__3291 8 лет назад

      Dont know if thats true but that's one thing you don't want to do. If you went down that fast in scuba your lungs would literally pop and you'd die

    • @131rocketman
      @131rocketman 8 лет назад +5

      Challenge accepted

  • @MrAnderson234
    @MrAnderson234 8 лет назад +9

    This video shows just how u chill surfing can be. I personally have never taken an ass beating this bad in NJ lol. Props

    • @4Runner66
      @4Runner66 5 лет назад +3

      MrAnderson234 because it’s NJ LOL. Nothing compared to these breaks that provide pure swell energy with no blockages

    • @masonmunkey6136
      @masonmunkey6136 3 года назад

      @@4Runner66 NJ certainly isn't on Puerto Escondido's level but it still gets pumping waves

  • @DadolfShitler69
    @DadolfShitler69 7 лет назад +1

    Definitely one. If those "this is not fun any more" moments.

  • @maxmackinlay
    @maxmackinlay 8 лет назад +2

    That reminds me not to catch the first wave of a heavy incoming set. I started thinking half way through 'oh, not another one'. Well done to get through that!

  • @dannyhuffman3587
    @dannyhuffman3587 7 лет назад +17

    Puerto is heavy as hell. Props for going on the first wave

  • @scottmb7989
    @scottmb7989 5 лет назад +2

    I don't mind the washing machine but I just hate coming back up and seeing another g'damn wave. That can make me panic when I know I'm already near my limit

  • @jeffbrunton3291
    @jeffbrunton3291 7 лет назад +13

    Huge waves = feel like a beginner again

    • @Jay-fq8uz
      @Jay-fq8uz 3 года назад +1

      More like feeling like a human again

  • @dylansneddon5587
    @dylansneddon5587 8 лет назад +6

    The key point of being held under is to stay calm this guy did the right thing, and by the way don't give him any tips if your not a surfer lmao!!

  • @A_Pt_9298
    @A_Pt_9298 4 года назад +1

    Ahahahah, lovely green and red screens ;) oh the joys of getting caught on the inside when it's big eh? Love it ;) or used to love it :))

  • @albertobatista29
    @albertobatista29 4 года назад +1

    Its happened to me once,HORRIBLE, since then , ive been training hold breathing,and IT has made the difference 👊👍

  • @mravitch2523
    @mravitch2523 6 лет назад +1

    Thank you so much for sharing this! It's the first one I've seen of "this" part of surfing!

  • @fredrit323
    @fredrit323 8 лет назад +7

    no surprise ! I've seen top surfers at Puerto getting the beating of their lives...

  • @koishooter
    @koishooter 4 года назад +1

    What's missing is the thunderous sound of the next wave coming at you like a freight train. You gasp for breath and with your back to the wave your ears and brain start calculating how long you have before you have to go down again. You think you have at least 3-4 seconds and then you turn around in a stupor only to see the wave about to land on top of you... "Damn it, I didn't have time to inhale. Stupid brain! In fact, who's idea was it to come here again?"

  • @MariaLuisa-lm6mc
    @MariaLuisa-lm6mc 8 лет назад

    Been there, done that my friend, what crazy memories! Thanks for the awesome play by play and nice to still have you with us! many props amigo

  • @mikemccourt6225
    @mikemccourt6225 8 лет назад

    Around 1:38 is the worst - like getting your bell rung in the 5th round when you're spent. You did good man.

  • @larryjohnny
    @larryjohnny 6 лет назад

    That was a washing machine cycle.. Bet you are in better shape after that one, full workout courtesy of Mother Nature... Props for even paddling out! Those were massive waves I can only imagine how much power you had to absorb there.. Rock on!

  • @bobdaniels3961
    @bobdaniels3961 3 года назад

    Glad to see him just head for the beach. Finally.

  • @johndtuttle
    @johndtuttle 8 лет назад +2

    Never take off on the first wave of a set. Words to live by...literally.

  • @shortgrey1085
    @shortgrey1085 7 лет назад +1

    Holy fuck! Oh man you have all my respect. great video. Cheers from France

  • @chris_laub
    @chris_laub 8 лет назад +2

    Fucking A man, serious props. That's a heavy set, but I'm actually surprised your hold downs didn't last longer. And holy shit, you got back to shore FAST. I didn't realize it broke that close to the beach :/

  • @jackcasey8279
    @jackcasey8279 8 лет назад

    Oh man! The sound of those waves. BOOOM!!

  • @brandost2969
    @brandost2969 6 лет назад

    When it’s huge and you go on the first wave of the set.. damn those first couple of waves were close together and he was rite in the impact zone. Gnarly

  • @Dylanbraaaa
    @Dylanbraaaa 8 лет назад +5

    that's crazy shit mad props to this guy right here!

  • @goolug
    @goolug 8 лет назад +4

    This is some high-octane nightmare fuel. Thanks for posting!

  • @timbior
    @timbior 6 лет назад

    That was some scary shit, I can't believe you held that gopro all that time. Props for staying calm and breathing deeply!!!

  • @doctoresota
    @doctoresota 5 лет назад

    i had the same experience at Mundaka, almost died. I had like 10 waves over my head, and i was always sinking on each lip, always at the same place, and i was drowning, it was huge, i decide in the last moment to not sink too much from the surface of the sea, and i just went 30 cm from the sea level, and the next lip , throw me from where i was, and i ended far form the great explosion and i survive. ended like Robinson Crusoe, at the sand, and praying, even i dont believe in god. This change of action save me.

  • @adamxbohannon
    @adamxbohannon 6 лет назад +1

    Respect.

  • @staynonhawaiitime960
    @staynonhawaiitime960 5 лет назад

    No shit Puerto is probably one of the heaviest beach breaks I have ever personally encountered. Surf places like well overhead La Jolla reef, Blacks, and Hawaii. I caught it solid 3' Haw and was chucked more times than I can count on hands. Can't imagine surfing double overhead puerto, it's so shallow too, which makes it so sketch... Someone died about 2 weeks after we left and got drilled on the bottom of a 10' face and was knocked out and drowned.... RIP...

  • @kylemeredith7386
    @kylemeredith7386 3 года назад

    Surfed Puerto for a solid 25 years, yep you can get humbled big time out there.I would hear newer guys talking big, I would remind them who was in charge out there. The Pacific Ocean

  • @shaunhurley8339
    @shaunhurley8339 5 лет назад

    Puerto is very serious over 10ft lest we forget its a beach break with current and unpredictable ever shifting peaks. Training for it is a requisite. Training has you confident so you can relax in these situations. Even if your leash breaks it should make no difference. Get back to the beach ASAP by staying with the whitewater. You can then regroup. Not getting to the beach during this set means a good chance of getting pulled out in the rip with all the energy moving back out to sea.

  • @loub747
    @loub747 8 лет назад +2

    You took a beating and did well. Nice video.

  • @stevewendes9091
    @stevewendes9091 5 лет назад

    My lungs are burning just watching it

  • @reginaldinoenchillada3513
    @reginaldinoenchillada3513 6 лет назад +1

    I was glad when he finally washed up on shore. I was thinking dont fight it let the waves push u to the beach. joey gale and bernie know from experience. Not their first rodeo in big surf. Rest in peace mark foo.

  • @steveng1990
    @steveng1990 7 лет назад +1

    washing machine. seawater from the nose. beautiful sunset...you're alive

  • @bricodepot1987
    @bricodepot1987 8 лет назад

    wow, i had the same experience, and i also remember my lungs having spams as they were instinctively asking for air, this is the moment you have to put your hand on your mouth so the water doesn t get in ....

  • @troynichols9788
    @troynichols9788 5 лет назад +2

    Okay. That was painful to watch. I can only imagine how it felt.

  • @dingdonghello1131
    @dingdonghello1131 7 лет назад

    Respect. I have water coming out of my nose after watching

  • @sirdonalddust4088
    @sirdonalddust4088 8 лет назад

    It looked like it was going to be a smooth ride and large barrel if the bottom turn had been completed.
    The beatings were handled incredibly well.
    Those walls of whitewater must have been 20 foot plus. They were Very big waves.

  • @NicksCove
    @NicksCove 8 лет назад

    gopro in your mouth at puerto!, holy shit!, i get nervous with mine in at 6-8ft lmao

  • @dazmac159
    @dazmac159 4 года назад

    Been there done that!
    Your out there doing it, outstanding!

  • @matthewkear1
    @matthewkear1 6 лет назад

    Things look like they started out pretty well, but GoPros make the water look a lot flatter than it actually is. Good job keeping calm.

  • @cheranguista
    @cheranguista 8 лет назад +8

    the minutes seems like hours......

  • @gswdeclan
    @gswdeclan 7 лет назад

    Looks like Ocean Beach but more so. Gotta be the heaviest beachbreak.

  • @lollol5234
    @lollol5234 4 года назад

    Crazy how the white water makes it so much harder to keep your head above the water

  • @talkinghead9664
    @talkinghead9664 6 лет назад

    ..for 20secs you were the king of the crest...then 2 mins being the sucker in the soup..

  • @rockyandjeff
    @rockyandjeff 8 лет назад

    1st time we've seen a vid like this, excellent!

  • @stevekleinhenz8262
    @stevekleinhenz8262 3 года назад

    Surfed there in mid 70’s crazy beach break with some sets that pound your brains out!

  • @MrJack63815
    @MrJack63815 8 лет назад

    fair play mate, fair play. have the chills just watching this :-)

  • @crankyneanderthal6784
    @crankyneanderthal6784 7 лет назад

    Every surfer's worst nightmare - unless you been there then you do not understand

  • @sutt5828
    @sutt5828 8 лет назад +1

    haha typical taz nice one mate you knows how to take it on the head

  • @zackmeers3567
    @zackmeers3567 8 лет назад

    Way to take it on the head. Nice big set Waves.

  • @p3brews736
    @p3brews736 3 года назад

    counting the waves on the head as i practice holding my breath.

  • @1prostock
    @1prostock 3 года назад

    Damn. Puerto really is gnarlier than OB.

  • @thomasmorgan3776
    @thomasmorgan3776 5 лет назад

    look like a beer commercial a wave and every sip

  • @bloblablah7409
    @bloblablah7409 3 года назад

    Quick important tip for holding your breath longer:
    The burning we feel in our lungs when holding our breath is due to carbon dioxide (CO2). When we inhale a breath of air, we are inhaling oxygen, but our lungs convert it to CO2 which is bad for your body and your body wants it out of you which is what causes that burning feeling. So if you’re ever caught inside like our friend Taz, exhale all the air out of your lungs to get all that CO2 out, then take a deep breath into your stomach expanding your diaphragm to get as much oxygen as possible before a wave hits you and you’ll be able to hold you’re breath much longer under water! 🤙❤️

    • @melissaku8304
      @melissaku8304 2 года назад

      I tried to do it here at home but it takes too long to do all that 🤔 to exhale all the air and then fill my lungs with its full capacity

    • @bloblablah7409
      @bloblablah7409 2 года назад +1

      @@melissaku8304 Really? All it is, is exhaling as much air out as possible then quickly inhaling as much air as possible which shouldn't take more than 5 seconds. Maybe you're doing it too slow. Usually it takes around 5 seconds at most so when a wave is barreling at you, time it accordingly.

  • @yomamarager2179
    @yomamarager2179 4 года назад

    Dude you just had to give it all you had on that right turn

  • @surferdude8086
    @surferdude8086 6 лет назад

    I've taken many a beatings like that and they're always in the back of my mind on big days.

  • @Josh-Kai2626
    @Josh-Kai2626 7 лет назад

    big ups dude, that's one hell of a beating

  • @mauart.7893
    @mauart.7893 6 лет назад

    This is stuff is what nightmares are made!

  • @justtowatch111
    @justtowatch111 8 лет назад

    Wow, I think I would have spat that Go Pro out after the second wave hit!. Well done surviving, did you go back out after a break?

  • @matttaylor9972
    @matttaylor9972 8 лет назад

    it looked like such a nice smooth ride what happened? did the break catch up and sweep you off?

  • @jeanqbxx
    @jeanqbxx 7 лет назад

    It's so hard to come back to the lineup after being caught inside in Puerto Escondido. It's almost like Zicatela is telling you "get the FUCK out" lol. I was in that situation last week, terrifying shit.

  • @AWildBard
    @AWildBard 3 года назад

    This video actually reminds me of surfing more than any other video. lol

  • @AWildBard
    @AWildBard 3 года назад

    At least you caught a wave

  • @gentbar7296
    @gentbar7296 7 лет назад

    the only thing he missed was the riptide off of the shore, was that blood under the foam ? sucks they dont have jetski patrol out in that heavy beast

  • @smiles1969able
    @smiles1969able 8 лет назад

    best youtube clip ever !

  • @luizgprado
    @luizgprado 5 лет назад

    i've never faced huge waves like that, but i wonder why don't you let them take you to the shore? (i know that probably there's an obvious answer that i'm missing here, but i really dont understand)

  • @Boris_Chang
    @Boris_Chang 8 лет назад

    I nearly broke my neck body surfing there many years ago. While I was sitting on the beach recuperating, some surfer dude was drifting into the rocks. Mexican marines in black uniforms watched from the beach and were laughing and I think were placing bets on him. His girlfriend swam out and dragged him back to the beach and saved his ass.

  • @davehilton7136
    @davehilton7136 8 лет назад

    That was heavy. You know what Turtle says, when da wave breaks hea, don't be dea

  • @LuxeXx
    @LuxeXx 8 лет назад +4

    You kept the camera in your mouth the whole time? That's impressive...

    • @9999Felix
      @9999Felix 6 лет назад

      Maybe it is tied to his chest

  • @jonathanstill5661
    @jonathanstill5661 4 года назад

    Yes, surfing UNDER water does present it's own unique challenges.
    Come up for air a little more often and shut the camera off altogether. Thanks.

  • @camchristie1975
    @camchristie1975 7 лет назад

    Mate I'd be catching that white water straight in

  • @biocls
    @biocls 8 лет назад +2

    Yeah, that's how I remember it.

  • @francoisstrength
    @francoisstrength 8 лет назад +4

    Is it just me or do big waves not hold you down for nearly as long as you'll expect...

    • @mateuszwarchol1914
      @mateuszwarchol1914 7 лет назад +4

      when you actually lose control of your body with the turbulence of the wave it feels so long especially when youve just paddled out

    • @francoisstrength
      @francoisstrength 6 лет назад +1

      Mateusz Warchol Meh, never surfed Peurto but surfed waves this size. It's hectic sometimes but quite frankly I feel that I can survive much more of a beating. Only problem is I don't have a big enough board to charge any bigger than I already have. Tbh the main thing is the fear aspect. The waves LOOK extremely scary and being tossed around in the dark with no air and no idea of when you'll get up for air again, that's the real issue. In the end, we can handle a lot more physically than mentally when it comes to wipeouts.

    • @jeff2333
      @jeff2333 6 лет назад

      12 second rule

  • @gnarrrrrrrrrrrr
    @gnarrrrrrrrrrrr 8 лет назад

    that was savage bud, good job