Retail furniture salesperson here. I wish all employers would train and educate their salespeople like she did in this video. So we can guide and set the right expectation for customers. I hope more people shop with educated salespeople. And salespeople focus on educating themselves and not only the sales and closing. Much appreciate for your time.
Actually, full grain leather is about the same thickness as other top grain leather. Full grain refers to the fact that the full natural grain has been preserved. It is rare that a cowhide will be pristine enough to be used as full grain, therefore they constitute about 2 percent of total true leathers. "Top grain" is the term properly used to describe the top layer of the leather, but has been sanded smooth to remove the imperfections, embossed with a leather like pattern (much more uniform than full grain) and then coated with a protective color layer. This type of leather is the most durable and easy to maintain, but looses the breathability of full grain leather. You have the terms confused in the video. Watch the many other videos here or read up on it and you'll see.
I am a leather repair and recoloring pro. The protective / pigmented color coating applied on top grain leather actually IS breathable, it's just reduced compared to full grain. Leather color coatings consist of a web of resin strands. It contains micro-pores which allow air, water and oils / grease to pass through. The leather below the color coating will absorb perspiration and then release water when no longer being sat on. Consequently, it feels more comfortable than sitting on a 100% synthetic surface like vinyl, bicast and bonded materials. The coating is opaque, so you don't see oil staining or dampness from absorbed body oils or cleaning products. Leather is sensitive to pH (acidity) of anything it absorbs. Products made for leather are pH-corrected. The color coating can tolerate products that are not safe for the leather below, like household cleaners, baking soda, vinegar, dish detergent, etc. These accelerate aging, but usually it occurs so slowly you never realize you reduced the life of your leather. Most people also have body oils that are the wrong pH, which is why armrests and headrests deteriorate as fast or faster than the seat, which gets the most wear.
@@JeezyReezy Hi - I am a leather repair pro. Body oils can be removed but it's more than cleaning. In full grain unprotected leather, the leather was dyed, like stain in wood and may have a lightly tinted or clear top coating added, but nothing more. Unfortunately, this type of leather will never look as it did before the oils were absorbed because oil removal will also remove some of the dye and leather cannot be re-dyed. Color can be added but it looks and feels different. The simplest solution is to cover it with an attractive blanket or leather flap. I recommend that be done from the start to prevent body oils being absorbed. About 3/4 of the population have body oils with a pH (acidity) that speeds up aging so the oil-saturated leather often looks stretched, creased, cracked and/or torn long before the surrounding areas. Body oils saturate the full thickness of the leather and spread out in all directions slowly over the years, even entering the padding. Leather structure is like a 3-D web. The dye is free-floating between the leather fibers and mixed with the "fat liquor" that fills the spaces and surrounds the fibers in the leather. The body oils have mixed with all that. When the body oils are drawn out, dye, moisture and fat liquor comes with it. Body oils are removed by absorbing them at the surface with a powerful drying powder, like putting a dry paper towel on a wet sponge. As the oils saturate the powder, it's removed and reapplied until no more oils are left. The leather is then deeply re-moisturized and conditioned with a special penetrating product. At that point you can see how much color was lost. It may be a lot or a little, but it will definitely be lighter than the surrounding area. A little surface tinting can be done in that area, however, it will always reflect light differently and the color cannot be perfectly matched. Often that is just trading one imperfect look for another. The only option to restore a uniform color is to recolor the entire item with an opaque color coating, a supple 2nd skin that resists water, wear and fading. The look is a completely uniform color without the subtle color variations your leather has now, and the feel is a little slick compared to the softer surface you have now. You've see this finish on other leathers and probably had no idea it was a coating.
@@barbaracarney6398 Woo, that's an awesome explanation. Thank you so much! So does that mean that redying and having a sealing coating on top of the product will not affect the quality and sustainability of the leather that much? I know that some people are not for the idea of redying for designer bags, but I guess it is actually how professional rehab is being done.
Thank you for your great video. Could you please help me know how genuine leather furniture compares to pvc furniture in terms of durability. Does genuine leather peel or tear or crack? Thank you.
Hello! 100% natural leather is an organic product that is much more durable than its pvc counter part. As for your other question, it all depends on the quality of that leather. Take a look at one of these articles here to see if they can help find the answer you are looking for. furniturefair.net/blogs/lc/real-vs-faux-leather OR steelhorseleather.com/blogs/the-journal/does-real-leather-peel
Is there a specific product you are looking at with that name? There are some leather baseball gloves made by Rawlings that use the term RSB, but as far as we can tell it means Rawlings Soft Ball. However, if you are looking at a particular furniture product, it may help us narrow down what you are looking at.
Hello Ahmed! Since we focus on Furniture for most of our leather, it would probably be best if you spoke with a leatherworker who specializes in handbags. We would hate to give you the wrong information for your future bag. good luck on your research!
It is usually marketing term for dual color leather where base layer is one color and top layer is complementary color. This is done on pebbled leather, usually embossed, so "grooves" would be base color and top of the pebbles would be complementary color. Most common example would be light tan base and darker tan tops
I love leather sofas. It's far easier to maintain, easier to clean up spills, and it is odour-free. I don't have to worry about steam cleaning or getting it professionally cleaned every year. I've had the same sofas almost 10 years and they're still in great condition. Every now and then, we'll use leather wipes, to keep it in top condition. All my sitting furniture , including the dining chairs, other chairs, ottomans, entry bench and even all the bed frames are made of dark leather, along with our car seats, for the same reason. Leather may cost more than fabric, but maintaing it costs far less in the long run and it can last much longer. Since I'm used to only having leather at my place, I can never go back to fabric. It's quite a downgrade.
Great question! Suede is a finished form of split leather usually used in shoes or clothing. While smooth split leather is usually embossed with a pattern and finish to create a durable leather upholstery, suede is an unfinished split leather that is brushed to bring out a softer, more luxury style upholstery finish. Both are a form of split leather and both have different functions and looks. Embossed split leather is more common in the furniture upholstery industry, but suede is used now and then to create a softer, more luxurious finish. The downside to suede leather is that it is harder to maintain over time and easier to stain. Hope this helps!
Don't get too caught up on terminology. Just feel it and smell it. If it's soft and supple and smells strongly like LEATHER, then it is high quality, real leather. It will be extremely expensive. If it is stiff and hard and smells leather-Y, then it is low quality leather. It SHOULD be cheaper, but is often passed off by dishonest manufacturers/sellers as good leather, and has a price tag FAR above where it should be. Once you've felt/smelled a few examples of truly high-quality top/full grain leather, you will realize that there's no comparison between it and lesser leather.
Semi-aniline leather is made with semi-aniline dye that contains just a small amount of pigment. A semi-aniline leather may sometimes be a better alternative for applications where heavy traffic, direct sunlight and regular maintenance play a part. This leather type can be a good compromise for those who want to achieve a uniform look while still retaining the many beautiful natural characteristics of leather. Scratching will be less obvious and color will remain more consistent over time. Combining durability with the soft handle of natural leather, semi-aniline leathers are especially suited to commercial areas. The light pigment coating on semi-aniline hides is similar to a light layer of foundation makeup over your skin. It helps protect, smooth and create an even coloration while still letting the skin breathe underneath. Hence why breathability and seating comfort are still good for this leather type as their performance is not hindered by the light protective layer.
@@furniturefair I repair and recolor leather furniture professionally. The key difference for durability and easy care is whether the leather is absorbent (aniline, semi-aniline) or resists water (top grain, a.k.a. protected / pigmented / coated). Aniline leather color comes from dye = the color you see has soaked down into the leather, like stain in wood. Semi-aniline has a thin top coating added that may be clear or translucent (pigment + clear top coat), allowing the dyed color to show as well. Pigment is opaque, but when diluted in the clear top coat allows the dyed color to show through, which creates visual interest with uneven color effects. The coating is so thin that water will still pass through after a minute or less, so it is very nearly as absorbent as aniline leather. Consequently, aniline and semi-aniline leather both fade and stain easily, although any pigment on semi-aniline reduces fading by shading the dye from some light, and pigment fades much slower than dye. Neither can be cleaned with liquid cleaners (liquified soil + cleaner soak in and remain permanently as a larger stain or a dark ring). The semi-aniline top coat is thin, so it wears thru faster than the thicker pigmented color coating used on top grain leather, which is completely opaque so the dyed color is not visible. The pigmented color coating is quite thin, but thick enough to reduce suppleness compared to the other types. It can be supple enough that it is hard to distinguish from semi-aniline unless tested for absorbency (water droplet left for 1 minute).
Hello, Rebecca! Shearling is the tanned skin of a sheep or lamb where the wool remains attached to the hide. As Wikipedia explains, it's a sheepskin or lambskin pelt that has gone through a limited shearing process to create a consistent depth of wool fibers, giving it that uniform appearance and feel. Contrary to what some may believe, shearling isn't simply shorn wool - it's the pelt of a yearling sheep shorn just once through the specified process. Shearling garments are crafted from pelts with the uniform-depth wool intact. You can learn more on this site here: shearlingleather.com/blogs/news/what-is-shearling-and-why-shearling-jackets-are-expensive?srsltid=AfmBOorNGu-S4guf39T2zPvoyDXhFZDy4LwdxpIWoNwx9WBTqUKbsNwU
Hello, Mengjun. To answer your question, Full Grain leather should not crack or peel unless under some rough conditions! If you do find your leather cracking or peeling, we'd suggest investing into leather conditioner as that can help and prevent your leather from cracking. Here is a link to another video where we talk about how to prevent leather furniture from cracking: furniturefair.net/blogs/lc/upholstery-leather-care-guide
Hey there, RKGSD! Polyurethane can last anywhere from three to five years. However, it can last even longer if cleaned and cared for correctly throughout the years. We hope this helps! :)
Back around 1970 I bought a vinyl couch. It was called Naugahyde and was beautiful and very durable. My wife, now divorced, kept it for years. The frame was well made, and the couch was expensive. "Real leather" is a meaningless term. Bonded leather is crap, anything is better than bonded leather.
That's the one with "The Nauga" mascot right? It's definitely one of the more fun furniture mascots of the past. Naugahyde is the name brand for a composite upholstery material made from knit fabric backing and expanded polyvinyl chloride (PVC) coating. It's great if you are looking for a durable product that is cruelty-free, and it will definitely hold up longer than bonded leather. It's been around since 1914 and is manufactured by the Uniroyal Company. We can't find any brands that carry it, but it is still available to purchase from their website: www.naugahyde.com/catalog/ You can still get their little mascot characters here as well! www.naugahyde.com/dolls/
I've been burned twice now by manufacturer's dishonesty about "leather". If you want real leather you must be prepared to pay very dearly for it. It's not a little bit more expensive. It's a lot more expensive. Otherwise, stick with fabrics & I dont mean any of those faux leather fabrics that look horrible after a year or two.
TRUE! I repair leather professionally. The cost difference between fabric and leather in the same style of furniture is usually double for top grain leather. However, that leather lasts about 4 x longer, so in the end the cost / year of use is about half. To be sure you are getting top grain leather, make sure it is in writing - on the tag the ads or the receipt. There are a dozen confusing terms the industry uses to describe the "genuine leather" products, but "top grain" is the key to avoiding these.
@@barbaracarney6398 thank you for this suggestion! I just started “looking” for a leather couch and had no idea the “range” in products and verbiage. This is an educational process that I am hoping will be cost effective in the very long run (I have learned it’s expensive in the short term, but if it is a lasting piece of furniture, I will be content).
Top grain is definitely the higher end of leather upholstery! It does come at a higher price point so it may not be for everyone but it is definitely the higher tier when it comes to leather types.
I am afraid to say that you are not exactly correct, I have been a tanner for fifty years plus and find what you are saying very confusing. All leather is genuine. Corrected grain can be soft, particularly in upholstery.
Great point Chris! All leather is genuine. however the phrase, "genuine leather" is often used by the fashion industry when referring to bonded leather, which as you probably know, is not the same as regular leather. Distinguishing between the two can be a rather big quality and price difference, which is why we refer to it that way. Hope this helps, and thank you for your expert knowledge. We want our videos to be as clear as possible.
@@furniturefair The slight problem here is the fact that the US uses slightly differnt terms that the UK (where I live) and most of the world. If you advertised something as genuine here, it must be the real deal, advertising standards an all that, they are very strict. You use weight for leather thickness, particularly on veg., which we call substance, we use mm, in the old days we used irons for very heavy leathers like for shoe soles and asddlery. I could type forever on this even though I have been retired eight years now. I was born into the trade and have grown up with it, doing virtually every job there is, I loved it - mostly. Sorry for rambling on. I might wirite a book about it one of these days.
@@ChrisBarnard-vd2fj We would read it! Sounds like we could use more UK advertising standards over here in the US to avoid confusion. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and insight into the leather industry!
Retail furniture salesperson here. I wish all employers would train and educate their salespeople like she did in this video. So we can guide and set the right expectation for customers. I hope more people shop with educated salespeople. And salespeople focus on educating themselves and not only the sales and closing.
Much appreciate for your time.
I wish someone to teach all of customers what real leather (and wood) is. Automakers sales fake leather for high price.
so beautifully explained, thank you
Her 30 yrs of leather knowledge poured into 15 minutes to save us time. And a trip to the store on Sat the old fashion way
One of the best leather info thank you
Wonderful I have learnt a lot out of your teaching
Thank you so much. I needed to understand this before investing in this beautiful leather sofa set.
We are glad that we could help you out!
Great job
Great video, thanks for the very clear explanations on these types of leathers
thank you for the kind words!
Thanks for the well-detailed breakdown information.
Very nicely explained.thanks🥰
Great video, thank you!
Really well explained. We just ordered a recliner and chose 400grade leather . We hope it ll last years .
2:21 full list
Thanks madam.
Actually, full grain leather is about the same thickness as other top grain leather. Full grain refers to the fact that the full natural grain has been preserved. It is rare that a cowhide will be pristine enough to be used as full grain, therefore they constitute about 2 percent of total true leathers. "Top grain" is the term properly used to describe the top layer of the leather, but has been sanded smooth to remove the imperfections, embossed with a leather like pattern (much more uniform than full grain) and then coated with a protective color layer. This type of leather is the most durable and easy to maintain, but looses the breathability of full grain leather. You have the terms confused in the video. Watch the many other videos here or read up on it and you'll see.
I am a leather repair and recoloring pro. The protective / pigmented color coating applied on top grain leather actually IS breathable, it's just reduced compared to full grain. Leather color coatings consist of a web of resin strands. It contains micro-pores which allow air, water and oils / grease to pass through. The leather below the color coating will absorb perspiration and then release water when no longer being sat on. Consequently, it feels more comfortable than sitting on a 100% synthetic surface like vinyl, bicast and bonded materials. The coating is opaque, so you don't see oil staining or dampness from absorbed body oils or cleaning products. Leather is sensitive to pH (acidity) of anything it absorbs. Products made for leather are pH-corrected. The color coating can tolerate products that are not safe for the leather below, like household cleaners, baking soda, vinegar, dish detergent, etc. These accelerate aging, but usually it occurs so slowly you never realize you reduced the life of your leather. Most people also have body oils that are the wrong pH, which is why armrests and headrests deteriorate as fast or faster than the seat, which gets the most wear.
How do you clean oil head marks from the full grain uncorrected leather?
@@JeezyReezy Hi - I am a leather repair pro. Body oils can be removed but it's more than cleaning. In full grain unprotected leather, the leather was dyed, like stain in wood and may have a lightly tinted or clear top coating added, but nothing more. Unfortunately, this type of leather will never look as it did before the oils were absorbed because oil removal will also remove some of the dye and leather cannot be re-dyed. Color can be added but it looks and feels different. The simplest solution is to cover it with an attractive blanket or leather flap. I recommend that be done from the start to prevent body oils being absorbed. About 3/4 of the population have body oils with a pH (acidity) that speeds up aging so the oil-saturated leather often looks stretched, creased, cracked and/or torn long before the surrounding areas.
Body oils saturate the full thickness of the leather and spread out in all directions slowly over the years, even entering the padding.
Leather structure is like a 3-D web. The dye is free-floating between the leather fibers and mixed with the "fat liquor" that fills the spaces and surrounds the fibers in the leather. The body oils have mixed with all that. When the body oils are drawn out, dye, moisture and fat liquor comes with it. Body oils are removed by absorbing them at the surface with a powerful drying powder, like putting a dry paper towel on a wet sponge. As the oils saturate the powder, it's removed and reapplied until no more oils are left. The leather is then deeply re-moisturized and conditioned with a special penetrating product.
At that point you can see how much color was lost. It may be a lot or a little, but it will definitely be lighter than the surrounding area. A little surface tinting can be done in that area, however, it will always reflect light differently and the color cannot be perfectly matched. Often that is just trading one imperfect look for another. The only option to restore a uniform color is to recolor the entire item with an opaque color coating, a supple 2nd skin that resists water, wear and fading. The look is a completely uniform color without the subtle color variations your leather has now, and the feel is a little slick compared to the softer surface you have now. You've see this finish on other leathers and probably had no idea it was a coating.
@@barbaracarney6398 Woo, that's an awesome explanation. Thank you so much! So does that mean that redying and having a sealing coating on top of the product will not affect the quality and sustainability of the leather that much? I know that some people are not for the idea of redying for designer bags, but I guess it is actually how professional rehab is being done.
Thank you for your great video. Could you please help me know how genuine leather furniture compares to pvc furniture in terms of durability. Does genuine leather peel or tear or crack? Thank you.
Hello! 100% natural leather is an organic product that is much more durable than its pvc counter part. As for your other question, it all depends on the quality of that leather. Take a look at one of these articles here to see if they can help find the answer you are looking for. furniturefair.net/blogs/lc/real-vs-faux-leather OR steelhorseleather.com/blogs/the-journal/does-real-leather-peel
Cool.
Microfiber leather is a better aletrenatve to PU leather and bonded leather as sysnthertic option isn't it?
Can you tell me what RSB leather is ?
Is there a specific product you are looking at with that name? There are some leather baseball gloves made by Rawlings that use the term RSB, but as far as we can tell it means Rawlings Soft Ball. However, if you are looking at a particular furniture product, it may help us narrow down what you are looking at.
@@furniturefair yes I just purchased a “ leather sofa” paid 4,602 for it but think I got shamed?
hi
can you please tell me which one is better for making a heavy bag?
Hello Ahmed! Since we focus on Furniture for most of our leather, it would probably be best if you spoke with a leatherworker who specializes in handbags. We would hate to give you the wrong information for your future bag. good luck on your research!
@@furniturefair thank you for the reply 💕
@@ahmedelshamy5718 you are very welcome!
Hi, may i know what is the frosted leather?
It is usually marketing term for dual color leather where base layer is one color and top layer is complementary color. This is done on pebbled leather, usually embossed, so "grooves" would be base color and top of the pebbles would be complementary color. Most common example would be light tan base and darker tan tops
Is it normal to have 'bottom' dents on the seat and back of real leather sofas pls?
After only a few uses? Thanks!
I love leather sofas. It's far easier to maintain, easier to clean up spills, and it is odour-free. I don't have to worry about steam cleaning or getting it professionally cleaned every year. I've had the same sofas almost 10 years and they're still in great condition. Every now and then, we'll use leather wipes, to keep it in top condition. All my sitting furniture , including the dining chairs, other chairs, ottomans, entry bench and even all the bed frames are made of dark leather, along with our car seats, for the same reason. Leather may cost more than fabric, but maintaing it costs far less in the long run and it can last much longer. Since I'm used to only having leather at my place, I can never go back to fabric. It's quite a downgrade.
Is the split leather also called Suede Leather ?
Great question! Suede is a finished form of split leather usually used in shoes or clothing. While smooth split leather is usually embossed with a pattern and finish to create a durable leather upholstery, suede is an unfinished split leather that is brushed to bring out a softer, more luxury style upholstery finish. Both are a form of split leather and both have different functions and looks. Embossed split leather is more common in the furniture upholstery industry, but suede is used now and then to create a softer, more luxurious finish. The downside to suede leather is that it is harder to maintain over time and easier to stain.
Hope this helps!
@@furniturefair Thank you for the information…👍🏻
Don't get too caught up on terminology. Just feel it and smell it. If it's soft and supple and smells strongly like LEATHER, then it is high quality, real leather. It will be extremely expensive. If it is stiff and hard and smells leather-Y, then it is low quality leather. It SHOULD be cheaper, but is often passed off by dishonest manufacturers/sellers as good leather, and has a price tag FAR above where it should be. Once you've felt/smelled a few examples of truly high-quality top/full grain leather, you will realize that there's no comparison between it and lesser leather.
What is Semi-aniline leather is it good quality for a sofa?
Semi-aniline leather is made with semi-aniline dye that contains just a small amount of pigment. A semi-aniline leather may sometimes be a better alternative for applications where heavy traffic, direct sunlight and regular maintenance play a part. This leather type can be a good compromise for those who want to achieve a uniform look while still retaining the many beautiful natural characteristics of leather. Scratching will be less obvious and color will remain more consistent over time.
Combining durability with the soft handle of natural leather, semi-aniline leathers are especially suited to commercial areas. The light pigment coating on semi-aniline hides is similar to a light layer of foundation makeup over your skin. It helps protect, smooth and create an even coloration while still letting the skin breathe underneath. Hence why breathability and seating comfort are still good for this leather type as their performance is not hindered by the light protective layer.
@@furniturefair thanks so much your amazing at what you do!
@@furniturefair I repair and recolor leather furniture professionally. The key difference for durability and easy care is whether the leather is absorbent (aniline, semi-aniline) or resists water (top grain, a.k.a. protected / pigmented / coated). Aniline leather color comes from dye = the color you see has soaked down into the leather, like stain in wood. Semi-aniline has a thin top coating added that may be clear or translucent (pigment + clear top coat), allowing the dyed color to show as well. Pigment is opaque, but when diluted in the clear top coat allows the dyed color to show through, which creates visual interest with uneven color effects. The coating is so thin that water will still pass through after a minute or less, so it is very nearly as absorbent as aniline leather.
Consequently, aniline and semi-aniline leather both fade and stain easily, although any pigment on semi-aniline reduces fading by shading the dye from some light, and pigment fades much slower than dye. Neither can be cleaned with liquid cleaners (liquified soil + cleaner soak in and remain permanently as a larger stain or a dark ring).
The semi-aniline top coat is thin, so it wears thru faster than the thicker pigmented color coating used on top grain leather, which is completely opaque so the dyed color is not visible. The pigmented color coating is quite thin, but thick enough to reduce suppleness compared to the other types. It can be supple enough that it is hard to distinguish from semi-aniline unless tested for absorbency (water droplet left for 1 minute).
Wha5 is shearling?
Hello, Rebecca! Shearling is the tanned skin of a sheep or lamb where the wool remains attached to the hide. As Wikipedia explains, it's a sheepskin or lambskin pelt that has gone through a limited shearing process to create a consistent depth of wool fibers, giving it that uniform appearance and feel. Contrary to what some may believe, shearling isn't simply shorn wool - it's the pelt of a yearling sheep shorn just once through the specified process. Shearling garments are crafted from pelts with the uniform-depth wool intact. You can learn more on this site here: shearlingleather.com/blogs/news/what-is-shearling-and-why-shearling-jackets-are-expensive?srsltid=AfmBOorNGu-S4guf39T2zPvoyDXhFZDy4LwdxpIWoNwx9WBTqUKbsNwU
What is faux shearling? Is the texture, feel and look similar to leather?
@@rebeccabautista4122 Typically, it's a polyester-type material that resembles the feeling of wool but is manufactured.
Thank-u
@@rebeccabautista4122 you are welcome!
Thank you so much. I have a question though, you said full grain will last for a long time, but will it crack? Thanks
Hello, Mengjun. To answer your question, Full Grain leather should not crack or peel unless under some rough conditions! If you do find your leather cracking or peeling, we'd suggest investing into leather conditioner as that can help and prevent your leather from cracking. Here is a link to another video where we talk about how to prevent leather furniture from cracking: furniturefair.net/blogs/lc/upholstery-leather-care-guide
@@furniturefair Thank you so much. But is it safe to say that once the leather is cracked, it is a irreversible damage?
You didn't mention how long vinyl/ polyurethane typically lasts.
Hey there, RKGSD! Polyurethane can last anywhere from three to five years. However, it can last even longer if cleaned and cared for correctly throughout the years. We hope this helps! :)
@@furniturefair Great to know. I would definitely want to go with top-grain at least.
So gud
Handyman
Back around 1970 I bought a vinyl couch. It was called Naugahyde and was beautiful and very durable. My wife, now divorced, kept it for years. The frame was well made, and the couch was expensive. "Real leather" is a meaningless term. Bonded leather is crap, anything is better than bonded leather.
That's the one with "The Nauga" mascot right? It's definitely one of the more fun furniture mascots of the past. Naugahyde is the name brand for a composite upholstery material made from knit fabric backing and expanded polyvinyl chloride (PVC) coating. It's great if you are looking for a durable product that is cruelty-free, and it will definitely hold up longer than bonded leather. It's been around since 1914 and is manufactured by the Uniroyal Company.
We can't find any brands that carry it, but it is still available to purchase from their website: www.naugahyde.com/catalog/
You can still get their little mascot characters here as well! www.naugahyde.com/dolls/
I need to ask u about buy some leather furniture
Hello Roy, of course we can help you with that! Give us a call at 513-874-5553 or shoot us an email at online@furniturefair.net
Send a sofa price thanks grewal gobind
I've been burned twice now by manufacturer's dishonesty about "leather". If you want real leather you must be prepared to pay very dearly for it. It's not a little bit more expensive. It's a lot more expensive. Otherwise, stick with fabrics & I dont mean any of those faux leather fabrics that look horrible after a year or two.
TRUE! I repair leather professionally. The cost difference between fabric and leather in the same style of furniture is usually double for top grain leather. However, that leather lasts about 4 x longer, so in the end the cost / year of use is about half. To be sure you are getting top grain leather, make sure it is in writing - on the tag the ads or the receipt. There are a dozen confusing terms the industry uses to describe the "genuine leather" products, but "top grain" is the key to avoiding these.
Yup.
@@barbaracarney6398 thank you for this suggestion! I just started “looking” for a leather couch and had no idea the “range” in products and verbiage. This is an educational process that I am hoping will be cost effective in the very long run (I have learned it’s expensive in the short term, but if it is a lasting piece of furniture, I will be content).
Sneakers are made of Polyurethane leather!
No. They are either polyurethane or leather, they cannot be both
Top grain. Never invest in trash. Prop 65 warnings all over that bonded pleather trash. 😳
Top grain is definitely the higher end of leather upholstery! It does come at a higher price point so it may not be for everyone but it is definitely the higher tier when it comes to leather types.
I am afraid to say that you are not exactly correct, I have been a tanner for fifty years plus and find what you are saying very confusing. All leather is genuine. Corrected grain can be soft, particularly in upholstery.
Great point Chris! All leather is genuine. however the phrase, "genuine leather" is often used by the fashion industry when referring to bonded leather, which as you probably know, is not the same as regular leather. Distinguishing between the two can be a rather big quality and price difference, which is why we refer to it that way. Hope this helps, and thank you for your expert knowledge. We want our videos to be as clear as possible.
@@furniturefair The slight problem here is the fact that the US uses slightly differnt terms that the UK (where I live) and most of the world. If you advertised something as genuine here, it must be the real deal, advertising standards an all that, they are very strict. You use weight for leather thickness, particularly on veg., which we call substance, we use mm, in the old days we used irons for very heavy leathers like for shoe soles and asddlery. I could type forever on this even though I have been retired eight years now. I was born into the trade and have grown up with it, doing virtually every job there is, I loved it - mostly. Sorry for rambling on. I might wirite a book about it one of these days.
@@ChrisBarnard-vd2fj We would read it! Sounds like we could use more UK advertising standards over here in the US to avoid confusion. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and insight into the leather industry!
bonded leather disintegrates....