This one caught my eye immediately, as recently I had a chance to do a comparison myself and learned, as the video shows, that I was overtorquing my AN-3 bolts. Lesson learned.
True. The amount of torque pressure you apply to an AN-3 nut is surprisingly small. The trick is figuring out the running torque and adding it to the final torque value.
Hi, Thanks for posting !!! Yes that is so very true! - Like I am guilty as charged too, have been over torquing them too. That Gadget is now on the "get it soon" list ! Best Regards from Alaska!
The boys and I just got back from the moose lodge down on main ave. The ladies in the kitchen gossiping us boys about to have the torque wrench competition. I love Saturdays.
Normal size wrench is sized so a normal man will torque a bolt or nut to 50% of the yield of a 30 KSI bolt (mild steel). Torque wrenches are plus/minus of the set point. The most accurate method is turn of the nut method.
Never assume a torque wrench is calibrated when working on aircraft. Be it fancy digital or durable but inconvenient deflecting beam or typical click type, ensure it's in acceptable accuracy range before use! If you use an adapter to reach difficult hardware ensure you either have the adapter at 90 degrees to the wrench axis (no math required because that neither extends nor reduced overall leverage but pull SLOWLY for accuracy) or use tables/calculation to figure your actual leverage.
I’ve personally never heard of inch-pounds because we always use Nm. It’s just force*distance from pivot = torque or moment. So 1Nm = 1Newton * 1 metreAnd for a bike let’s say, you need 5Nm but you have a 5cm Allen key you have 5=N*0.05 so 5/0.05= force 5/0.05=100 so 100N an easy way to see this is divide by 10 (9.81) to get weight required because mass*accelaration=weight. Your mass can be 70kg but the scale says your weight is 700ish N it divides it by gravity to get mass so a ten kilo mass is required. Easy. Or use a weighing scale in the required units such a a luggage scale or something
Over here in the States we also learn Newton-meters (at school) as units of torque but outside of science class we use lb-ft and in-ft in our daily lives.
I prefer manual over digital torque wrench. Adapters and extensions take approx -.5-1ft. lbs. from the actual reading from what I've noticed. Of course, every human has different strength, so tighten a bolt as much as you can with a standard wrench or ratchet, and then put a torque wrench on it and see what it reads. Then you will be able to guage how tight you need to tighten a bolt whether it recommends more ft. lbs. than you can exert, or less.
I think it would be very nice to tell the risk or danger of overtighten a fastener. Of course assuming that it does not strip threads. I have been working on various devices since a small child (helping dad) and I am now 72 and building my first airplane airplane. I am using a torque wrench for the airplane but have only used a torque wrench in places I know that proper torque is important before, e.g, cylinder heads. Dad's rule was to always use the proper size wrench and the shorter length for smaller fasteners would self limit the torque. I believe doubling the torque for AN3 holding together two or more pieces or aluminum would have no adverse effects.Does anyone out there have a different opinion (surely someone) and if so can you provide a reference?
That's the way I've always done it, learning it from my father who was a military jet mechanic. Only problem with him is he was an alcoholic and also a fan of southern engineering aka: JerryRigging, and the other one, I will not mention, out of respect . But like you say, on important engine parts like head bolts, rod bearing bolts, cam bearing's etc. But on lesser important one's, I'm of the opinion that once you have done enough mechanical engineering through the years, you can pretty much tell how much torque to put on a nut or bolt from experience.
It's not about the threads... the fastener will reach its elastic limit and distort, reducing its integrity. It will break much easier than a fastener that was under-torqued or torqued to spec. Torque To Yield fasteners are designed to stretch for maximum clamping force, but only up to a specific point. After that point the integrity of the fastener is reduced. Since TTY fasteners stretch, they need to be disposed of and replaced when removed.
Tiny torques! I figure that my hand was calibrated primarily for 10 ft-# (spark plugs & oil drain plug) and 30 ft-# for other 1/2" or 12mm bolts, and my foot for 65 ft-# for lug nuts. Other than those, I use a torque wrench -- especially for 2 ft-# or less :)
So tightening until it strips and backing off a quarter turn is out? Excellent video!
Yep!....make it right at the moment you feel that tightening up the nut is getting a little to easy, then STOP!....and you will be ok.
Both of you, Masters of Cringe, accolades!
I totally didn't do that on my rocker arm bolts ;)
This one caught my eye immediately, as recently I had a chance to do a comparison myself and learned, as the video shows, that I was overtorquing my AN-3 bolts. Lesson learned.
The best thing you could’ve done for this vid is providing the link to where you got that torque device or at least a website link
If I close my eyes its like David Lynch is teaching me about torque.
Thanks
True. The amount of torque pressure you apply to an AN-3 nut is surprisingly small. The trick is figuring out the running torque and adding it to the final torque value.
Played in 1.5x is way better
What I do, it's to tight it with a short handle wrench to avoid over torquing the bolt, and count the turns after tight the bolts.
Hi,
Thanks for posting !!! Yes that is so very true! - Like I am guilty as charged too, have been over torquing them too. That Gadget is now on the "get it soon" list ! Best Regards from Alaska!
The boys and I just got back from the moose lodge down on main ave. The ladies in the kitchen gossiping us boys about to have the torque wrench competition. I love Saturdays.
Normal size wrench is sized so a normal man will torque a bolt or nut to 50% of the yield of a 30 KSI bolt (mild steel). Torque wrenches are plus/minus of the set point. The most accurate method is turn of the nut method.
So we don't tighten until it clicks twice?
Never assume a torque wrench is calibrated when working on aircraft. Be it fancy digital or durable but inconvenient deflecting beam or typical click type, ensure it's in acceptable accuracy range before use!
If you use an adapter to reach difficult hardware ensure you either have the adapter at 90 degrees to the wrench axis (no math required because that neither extends nor reduced overall leverage but pull SLOWLY for accuracy) or use tables/calculation to figure your actual leverage.
if it is aluminam frame material, you should probably recheck a few hours later, as there will be compression ?
What about when a torque wrench wont fit in a tight spot?
I’ve personally never heard of inch-pounds because we always use Nm. It’s just force*distance from pivot = torque or moment. So 1Nm = 1Newton * 1 metreAnd for a bike let’s say, you need 5Nm but you have a 5cm Allen key you have 5=N*0.05 so 5/0.05= force 5/0.05=100 so 100N an easy way to see this is divide by 10 (9.81) to get weight required because mass*accelaration=weight. Your mass can be 70kg but the scale says your weight is 700ish N it divides it by gravity to get mass so a ten kilo mass is required. Easy. Or use a weighing scale in the required units such a a luggage scale or something
Plus I only know physics not all this ANC 13 stuff tho
Over here in the States we also learn Newton-meters (at school) as units of torque but outside of science class we use lb-ft and in-ft in our daily lives.
I do hope you're not a teacher, that is totally confusing. Correct, but confusing.
Thank you! I have to mount a magnifier and Sig says 65 lbs. I guess I can spend $30 for the tool.
you can feel the bolt stretch as long as you arent using a massive wrench i wouldnt do anything important using this supernatural ability tho
I prefer manual over digital torque wrench. Adapters and extensions take approx -.5-1ft. lbs. from the actual reading from what I've noticed. Of course, every human has different strength, so tighten a bolt as much as you can with a standard wrench or ratchet, and then put a torque wrench on it and see what it reads. Then you will be able to guage how tight you need to tighten a bolt whether it recommends more ft. lbs. than you can exert, or less.
How to Tighten a Car Wheel Bolt Lug Nut Without Torque Wrench
Im going to tighten my head bolts by hand right now ive got an easy way to gauge tighten then go a quarter turn more and there you are
I think it would be very nice to tell the risk or danger of overtighten a fastener. Of course assuming that it does not strip threads. I have been working on various devices since a small child (helping dad) and I am now 72 and building my first airplane airplane. I am using a torque wrench for the airplane but have only used a torque wrench in places I know that proper torque is important before, e.g, cylinder heads. Dad's rule was to always use the proper size wrench and the shorter length for smaller fasteners would self limit the torque. I believe doubling the torque for AN3 holding together two or more pieces or aluminum would have no adverse effects.Does anyone out there have a different opinion (surely someone) and if so can you provide a reference?
That's the way I've always done it, learning it from my father who was a military jet mechanic. Only problem with him is he was an alcoholic and also a fan of southern engineering aka: JerryRigging, and the other one, I will not mention, out of respect . But like you say, on important engine parts like head bolts, rod bearing bolts, cam bearing's etc. But on lesser important one's, I'm of the opinion that once you have done enough mechanical engineering through the years, you can pretty much tell how much torque to put on a nut or bolt from experience.
It's not about the threads... the fastener will reach its elastic limit and distort, reducing its integrity. It will break much easier than a fastener that was under-torqued or torqued to spec. Torque To Yield fasteners are designed to stretch for maximum clamping force, but only up to a specific point. After that point the integrity of the fastener is reduced. Since TTY fasteners stretch, they need to be disposed of and replaced when removed.
He never did the test himself.. whole reason i watched.. come on now..
Good to know
Or just use a Torque Wrench and nail it every time.
Really! Why the mansplaining to the men? We need to be gently let down?
for $50 i would much rather just buy a mechanical torque wrench ratchet bar. electric ones will fail much much quicker.
Why would you assume this?
@@hinghampool1064 asked the perfect robot?
Tiny torques!
I figure that my hand was calibrated primarily for 10 ft-# (spark plugs & oil drain plug) and 30 ft-# for other 1/2" or 12mm bolts, and my foot for 65 ft-# for lug nuts. Other than those, I use a torque wrench -- especially for 2 ft-# or less :)
UH if you're working on an aircraft I think I'd go with a torque wrench lol
It's just an aircraft. What could go wrong?
how about how close you were. non eventful,thanx for the drinking game.
nice
Well that’s 5 mins of my life I won’t get back what a waste of time.
you need mor structure in your life! get a daytimer, online schedule reminder, closet organizer, and a bunch of other stuff
All of those things would be far more useful than this video cheers.
@@greeneboi123 there goes another 30 seconds man !!! You gotta get a grip. life is too short!!