If any one is looking for the PERFECT instructional video to replace the timing belt on a VW 2.0 TDI engine THIS is the one!. It covers EVERY tiny aspect and detail to perfection... there are no other videos better than this...
Dropped my daughter at collage and sat on the carpark and watched the whole of this tutorial. Amazing, I'm going to get the crankshaft locking tool and pins👌👌👌👌😉
This is about the best cam belt replacement video that I have seen, (and I taught vehicle tech between 2002 and 2014). An excellent guide for the DIY enthusiast, keep up the good work.
Brilliant video. The camera work, the ongoing commentary including comment ref special tools and spanner sizes and types are all excellent. You are an excellent mechanic and very good at explaining the issues. Thank you. Happy happy, easy peasey.
First class video and I must say I have seen lots of mechanics in my time and you are one of the best as you check and double check you have it right and it makes for a first rate job
just a quick note responding mudemmeonick. the car went for MOT the day after and passed emissions test fine. I am extremely grateful to WheelsAndMotors. His approach was way more thorough than many garages I have been to. Idle speeds are spot on and steady (consistent), running as sweet as nut, no loss of power etc. Very good job. thank you for the extra knowledge though. Perhaps post a video :-)
They will always pass emissions if the engines are healthy. Injection timing has nothing to do with it. Idle speeds will be spot on if the mechanical timing is correct. Idle speed is adjusted through VAS/VCDS if needed. One thing I must commend. Indeed hes way more careful than many garages. The guys that took years designing the engines don't recommend certain procedures, certain bolt torques just because they felt like doing so. Everything has a reason. Sure some things could be improved. But some garages do the opposite. Either by lack of experience or simply to have quick turn around times. Regarding the car behavior, not saying you're wrong or anything similar. Not even trying to imply it. Simply, my personal experience tells me some people notice the smallest difference in the engine behavior while others are a bit more lenient. Seen them all. From absolute Michael Schumachers that could differentiate all the engine noises overlayed to creatures that could have had parts fall off they wouldn't have noticed it. Checking it to be sure doesn't take more than 5 minutes and assures everything is spot on.
wheels and motors guy is conscientious and the car runs smoothly with consistent steady power torque curve. Pulls well throughout the rev range to high revs with definite power if needed. I don't notice small differences. Too busy to care really. thanks again for your input!
This is simply a fabulous way to work on this job. A total blast. Well done guys. I will finish in the morning by checking the timing and putting everything together again. Many thanks!
Yes, I like this one better myself, I've put more effort and better description on the website.. However my A6 video has half a million views and this one just over 20K :)
Very good & thorough video. I followed it almost exactly and the engine is now running sweetly. I followed the advice of using a jack plus wood and rubber under the alloy sump. Being able to move the engine up and down to get access to awkward nuts & bolts was particularly useful. I did remove the coolant reservoir completely because it was easy. I tried to remove the fuel filter but destroyed one of the fuel rubber hoses because it seemed to have formed a permanent contact with the alloy metal pipe. (I was quoted £71 for a genuine VW pair of replacement moulded pipes so I bought 1 metre of 'fuel injection pipe' for £7 and made my replacement. I unbolted the fuel filter and just moved it around still attached to 2 of the hoses.
£71 for a hose? Do they make them out of gold or encrust some jewels in them? :) I had similar story with power steering fluid lines - just bought some hose from tractor part shop. Thanks for compliments! Glad if it helps people.
You guys are amazing, you both save car enthusiasts thousands of dollars. Your technical coverage is so comprehensive despite being in a tiny garage. I wish you will cover an Audi Q7 cos this will be my next project after Passat TDi.
Thanks for making this video! What I found particularly helpful is where you give the socket/bit sizes needed. That way, if there's a particular socket I don't have then I can order one before starting the work. I will replacing my cambelt this coming Saturday. Incidentally, please make a video showing how to change the two rubber "dog-bone"bushes on a B6 (where the rear engine mount fits into the subframe) without using expensive specialist tools! I'm not sure it's possible - there's your challenge! :-)
Whenever I'll have B6 - I'll have a look into it. I'm not making new videos at the moment - lots of other stuff to do. I need to make one more video about Sharan AdBlue heater..
Oh - it's easy. One thing I would like to point out - don't use grease on water pump O-ring. Simply moisture it with coolant. Some types of grease can eat seal slightly and it may develop a leak.
Big warning to anybody attempting this job, go to VW in advance and purchase a revised M8 to M10 tensioner pulley bolt. When you change the pulley the OE VW bolt only has thread about 8mm deep. When you swap the bolt the outer threads on the alloy head strip meaning the bolt doesn't sit deep enough and the tensioner oscillates and the bolt will snap! (Ask me how I found out). Luckily my car died whilst idling at lights and avoided damaging any valves, others have had it happen at speed and destroyed the engine. You'll need to tap out the M8 hole to M10 and also go about 5mm deeper than the existing hole to offer more support. Once you've done this use threadlock and use the revised M10 pulley bolt. My engine code is BKP but I believe this is applicable for most PD engines on their second timing belt.
Thanks 👍 Yeah this video can be applied to many VAG cars. One thing I did wrong - don't use grease on water pump O-ring, best just make it wet with coolant. Some types of grease can eat rubber and it can start leaking..
I will need to change the cambelt on my 2012 Passat, sometime during the next few months. I'm hoping the techniques used i this video will help me to do mine. Thanks.
@@wawayltd thanks very much! Cambelt kit has been ordered, seems slightly different model to the one in the video. Wish me luck! Do you have a video for injection timing?
This is a very informative video and covers every aspect well. However, there was just one thing that I did not understand....when you adjusted the tensioner pully you said it was best to EXCEED the notch position as it will somehow slacken off afterwards when you tighten things up but this did not occur see 1:00:52 and I presume the belt to be overtightened for it's whole life...Could you please explain why you OVER tightened the tensioner please? Many thanks...
It does go back a little bit after 2 revolutions for adjustment. You can't see this in the video, because I didn't show it. In case if it doesn't, still according to manual - middle or up to 5mm from the middle is fine. You should see where it is after running the engine when it's hot - it's all over the place. Anyway, once you tighten tensioner correctly, don't worry about it, concentrate on correct timing adjustment.
Hi there again. There is just one bit of info I am not clear on. At 51:44 you replace the new Idler bolt but I could not understand what torque you say it should be tightened to. You mention 90Nm and 90 deg. and then say 40Nm and 90 deg. Could you tell me what torque is correct please. Very much obliged and thanks again.
If idler roller bolt has a 12mm thread - it's 90Nm + 90°. In case if you have different engine and idler roller bolt has only 10mm thread, tightening torque for that is 40Nm + 90° further. If you try to take 10mm to 90Nm - you'll brake the bolt. I've done it once 😁
Excellent. Many thanks. Now I can be sure what to do . By the way, is there a free online data -base for all the various tightening torques for this engine please?
Not sure about free, this is what I'm trying to do on my website. By the way completely new version is coming out soon. Also there's this, good source, not free, but not expensive either: erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/showHome.do
I don't have experience with automatic, sorry... Initially I wanted to say put it in neutral, but then it won't let you to take key out. I don't know how important it is. I tried to look up in Internet, can't find anything useful. I would do it in neutral, it seems more logical, but don't take my word for it, please ask some professional.
IOSIF MOCANU · I would try turning the volkswagen ignition key to the "on" position without starting the engine. Then putting the automatic transmission gear selector to the N neutral position. Try it, might work🤔
Thanks for a great video. I think in all of the how to videos I watched, the cameraman on this one is the best. He know how to focus the camera. The question I have is this, were the intake and exhaust cam sprocket centered to begin with? Or why did you loosen the 3 bolts from each sprocket to move and centered the pins to aligning it with the holes behind the sprocket. By the way, the camera man did a good job focusing at the detail of the pin alignment.
Camshafts (intake and exhaust) should be aligned with holes in engine block by whoever fitted cambelt last time. If he didn't align them properly or with the time setting got out of the way - it's not a problem, if you can't fit locking pins while old cambelt is on, then lock them after you take it off. Camshafts are connected to sprockets by those 3 bolts through elongated holes, so you can adjust them. It doesn't matter where sprocket is, what matters is inside - camshaft - it must be aligned. That's why we loosen those 3 bolts to align camshafts with position of the belt and therefore crankshaft. We have full description at our website, hope it explain better. Please check this link: www.wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=55
Yes! You will be surprised - best is no grease at all! Just moisture seal with coolant. Sometimes grease may eat rubber of the seal and water pump may start leaking. Someone made a comment about about it, I agreed and never used grease again. If you follow link in description to my website - it says the same. I know some mechanics use grease, but in my experience (I tried both) - no grease is the best.
Thanks 👍 I think 1.9 tdi is a single camshaft. If so, it would be slightly different (easier). It also depends on how the engine is positioned (along or across). I have one video for 1.9 tdi Skoda: ruclips.net/video/LqeIe7pOVP8/видео.html
@@wawayltd I saw your Skoda video yesterday . It looked similar to the engine on my car with just one cam shaft. I am going to watch this video over cos the only thing that confuses me is when it comes to locking the cam on top and the bottom 19mm bolt where you insert that special tool. I have seen those kits on ebay. They not expensive prohably 10 pounds.
@@wawayltd your videos are great my friend and absolute joy to watch. You are teaching guys like me to do repairs themselves and I really admire your efforts.
@@wawayltd Thanks. I wanna change my 2009 passat's cambelt so I did some research last night. I want to travel and it's important to avoid any unexpected risk. For me, I'm gonna change just the belts. The water pump may be later.
@@garylakey5363 I don't think I would be a great help - I'm not a mechanic 😏 I only know how to replace cambelt + few other bits.. If you like, you can share your trouble in our Facebook group. I will see it and another 200 odd people too - maybe someone will be able to help you. Here's the link to Facebook group: facebook.com/groups/wheelsandmotors/
Not quite.. Although principle is the same, if your engine is Euro 5 and engine number begins with a "C", then have a look for my video with VW Sharan, but if your engine is Euro 6 and engine number begins with a "D", I haven't done that video yet - it's even more different and requires different crankshaft locker.
I got torque values from Elsawin. I know that those bolts not meant to be reused, but lot of people still do it. If I re-use I just try to be careful with those degrees - go by feel. To be honest I don't remember by now what torques I've done in that video, kind of feel lazy to look through the video. I don't think I would have it different from Elsawin..
Is it feasible to leave the fuel filter connected and just loosen the pipe mounts, and put it to the side? And the coolant tank too? Id rather not risk getting air in the high pressure fuel line!
I did it in my next videos for my Skoda with CXXB engine. If it's doable, you can try. I also used to worry about the air in fuel lines, but with some experience dealing with fuel filter replacement on different diesel cars, I don't think it's a big deal, as long as the air gap is not too big, so you can start the engine. Disconnecting filter like that - you don't even notice any effect when starting the engine.
If your engine code starts with C, best reference I have is my video on Sharan. If it's D, then I didn't look what it's like there. Should be pretty similar.
A Miah I did mention that in the video. Not many garages do that though. This rule applies not only for emgime mount bolts but lots of other bolts that have Nm + degrees.
are the tools you used to lock the pulleys and timing gears crank shaft etc. can also use in a 2009 Passat 2.0t automatic transmission if I want to replace the same parts you did? THANKS
Hi Macko, I've replied to your comment like couple days ago and for some reason it's not showing. Basically if it's 2.0tdi then yes, tools should be the same, if it's petrol/gasoline then I don't know much about those engines.
yes sir its gasoline 2.0tsi.....cause I have the same problem water pump is start to leak and I want to do it myself for garage is asking too much labor for it....thanks for the reply.
WheelsAndMotors it help a lot in fact I have CC 2.O TSI 2008 MODEL , i bought 4 month ago I have no history of the car . can you advice after how many kilometers I have to replace the timing belt ? thanks in advance
Not sure about TSI. I know some of them have chain (older ones), some have belt. Belt is recommended to change every 60.000 miles or 5 years whichever comes first. With chain is can be more complicated - they can stretch and make noise and some trouble. If you have no history on your 10 year old car, I would recommend to replace oil, filters, gearbox oil (if it's automatic), and belts. Or at least get someone to check them.
That's very reasonable price. I don't think I would do it for £150, mainly because I don't do repairs as business, so together with organising all of that it would take whole day. I have few videos about cambelts, and I get offers in comments, asking to do their belt. And when I ask: - Are you sure you want to come across a country to me? - It's not going to be cheaper than normal garage, and I'm not even qualified mechanic.. 😁 I believe customers of any business shouldn't moan about the price. There are reasons for it to be like that - they either accept it or go somewhere else! Sorry about load of text - I'm just totally with you on this. Happy New year! 🍾🌲🥂
@@wawayltd Thank you for the comment back and trust me, people complain about my charging them £150. I can get it done in around an hour now but they don't understand it's not about time taken with a job like this, it's the responsibility in case I make a mistake and have to either purchase the car from them or rebuild their engine for free. Thankfully, nothing like that has ever happened. The truth is though, most of the public are very cheap when it comes to car repairs. They seem to forget a car is usually their second largest asset and the one thing they depend on to actually be able to function. So, with £150 labour every 10 years I think it's very reasonable cost considering they will pay £60 for a phone contract every month or sit in a bar every Saturday and spend £50. Still, you just can't make them see that.
All torques and full description for this job are listed on my website (link below the video). If I remember correctly - stud to engine block is 15Nm, the nut on that stud 20Nm. Big rollers bolt was 50Nm + some degrees.
The engine on your 2014 Skoda is next generation common rail and cambelt change most likely should be like this: ruclips.net/video/Tke2oHYHgoM/видео.html
I’ve just started the job and when it came to undoing the 4 bolts on the auxiliary wheel I have noticed the wheel turning. Would anyone know if this might cause a problem or am I ok to continue? Thanks in advance Sam
@@wawayltd Yes it was turning the auxiliary wheel as I was undoing the 3 bolts and I panicked. Am I right in thinking it shouldn’t matter as the belts obviously still on and it won’t mess anything up?
@@wawayltd I got mum to counter hold it while I loosened them 😆 Been wrestling this engine bracket trying to get it out for the last hour or two. Thanks for your help matey! Great video!!
I don't know how many teeth, I always gave my car details to parts shop and they sold correct one.. I would guess that if you have 2 camshafts belt would be longer than for the engine with one.. But the best thing to do is to check with the seller.
@@wawayltd it is weird,one engine and two different kind timing belts....if I order it from cm eurocarparts .. it's 141 ...and on eBay,it can be 141 or 160 for the same engine...
@@gerolddo No. Both belts will not fit same engine. Definitely only one is suitable. Just some websites/sellers are lazy to sort it for different engines and offer both.
In all of these videos people are calling screws whether they be hex or socket head whatever ' bolts They're calling screws nuts and all sorts the goodness a get it right because you lose a great deal of credibility when you do not use the same term I know that you people are not Engineers but mechanics other than that the video is very good And you are not the only one most of them are doing this drives me frantic actually
I seem to suffer from that a lot! Later when I edit videos I just wonder - how could I call a bolt to be nut?? Sorry Stuart, being non-English, my mind doesn't keep up with commenting what I do in real time. I try to make it up on my website, where all description text is thought through.. Thanks for watching 😊👍
I think the "problem" with those pins not fitting smooth in the holes is becouse you put the tensioner to tight The arrow must be perfectly in between.. after doing 2 rotations on the crankshaft you can always adjust the tensioner if its out of place
I have one video on SOHC engine, 1.9tdi: ruclips.net/video/LqeIe7pOVP8/видео.html And here is link to description of that job: www.wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=74 BMM engine is probably Golf or Touran.. Just checked assembly overview - looks the same as that 1.9tdi. Torques also looks same.
Lot of people say that 1.9 is better. Personally I prefer latest common rail ones, like in my 2012 Sharan. But you know what is it like, it can be a lottery. I have 2 Seat Alteas 1.6tdi, both 2012 - one of them is brilliant and gives me no trouble, another with lower miles had problems with literally everything and eventually it died. It died mainly because of idiot driver that put extra 5 litres of oil in... What I'm trying to say - same engine can be different, depending how it's driven and how it's looked after. Sorry for load of text and no reasonable conclusion ;)
@@wawayltd hi pal . Your fine . I get ya. It's all about how well the car is looked after. The Passat I'm looking at is a highline 2.0 TDI with 140 k miles with full service history and top spec immaculate condition. So I'm thinking it should be ok. 140 bhp plenty of power and driving great 👍
![How to change the timing belt, tensioner pulley, and water pump on VW PASSAT B6 [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/iy7sNByD4DU/mqdefault.jpg)
If any one is looking for the PERFECT instructional video to replace the timing belt on a VW 2.0 TDI engine THIS is the one!. It covers EVERY tiny aspect and detail to perfection... there are no other videos better than this...
Wow! Thank you very much 😊
Dropped my daughter at collage and sat on the carpark and watched the whole of this tutorial.
Amazing, I'm going to get the crankshaft locking tool and pins👌👌👌👌😉
Easy 😎👍
Occasionally one comes across a comprehensive and truly useful instructional video. This is one. Thank you very much.
You're very welcome :)
This is the best video on RUclips about replacing a VW timing belt
Thanks 😊
This is about the best cam belt replacement video that I have seen, (and I taught vehicle tech between 2002 and 2014). An excellent guide for the DIY enthusiast, keep up the good work.
Thanks John :)
Brilliant video. The camera work, the ongoing commentary including comment ref special tools and spanner sizes and types are all excellent. You are an excellent mechanic and very good at explaining the issues. Thank you. Happy happy, easy peasey.
Thanks for your comment! We tried our best do demystify cambelt 😎
But officially I'm not a mecahnic - just pretending 😁
First class video and I must say I have seen lots of mechanics in my time and you are one of the best as you check and double check you have it right and it makes for a first rate job
Thanks Gordon 👍
just a quick note responding mudemmeonick. the car went for MOT the day after and passed emissions test fine. I am extremely grateful to WheelsAndMotors. His approach was way more thorough than many garages I have been to. Idle speeds are spot on and steady (consistent), running as sweet as nut, no loss of power etc. Very good job. thank you for the extra knowledge though. Perhaps post a video :-)
They will always pass emissions if the engines are healthy. Injection timing has nothing to do with it.
Idle speeds will be spot on if the mechanical timing is correct. Idle speed is adjusted through VAS/VCDS if needed.
One thing I must commend. Indeed hes way more careful than many garages. The guys that took years designing the engines don't recommend certain procedures, certain bolt torques just because they felt like doing so. Everything has a reason. Sure some things could be improved. But some garages do the opposite. Either by lack of experience or simply to have quick turn around times.
Regarding the car behavior, not saying you're wrong or anything similar. Not even trying to imply it. Simply, my personal experience tells me some people notice the smallest difference in the engine behavior while others are a bit more lenient. Seen them all. From absolute Michael Schumachers that could differentiate all the engine noises overlayed to creatures that could have had parts fall off they wouldn't have noticed it.
Checking it to be sure doesn't take more than 5 minutes and assures everything is spot on.
wheels and motors guy is conscientious and the car runs smoothly with consistent steady power torque curve. Pulls well throughout the rev range to high revs with definite power if needed. I don't notice small differences. Too busy to care really. thanks again for your input!
Definition of humble:
humbler\ˈhəm-b(ə-)lər\; humblest\ˈhəm-b(ə-)ləst\
1 : not proud or haughty : not arrogant or assertive
Just a friendly reminder.
This is simply a fabulous way to work on this job. A total blast. Well done guys. I will finish in the morning by checking the timing and putting everything together again. Many thanks!
You're very welcome Tim 👍
Check out our website as well..
Just had my cambelt done today .second cambelt change .always wondered howit was changed.good video sir thanks
Thanks 😊
Great video. No detail not covered without being overly technical. A true professional... Mate, you just saved me $1000! Thank you so so much. :))
Thanks Graeme, glad if it helps :)
This is much better than your Audi A6 2.0 Tdi cambelt video. I wish I had seen this one BEFORE I changed my Audi cambelt :-(
Yes, I like this one better myself, I've put more effort and better description on the website.. However my A6 video has half a million views and this one just over 20K :)
Very good & thorough video. I followed it almost exactly and the engine is now running sweetly. I followed the advice of using a jack plus wood and rubber under the alloy sump. Being able to move the engine up and down to get access to awkward nuts & bolts was particularly useful.
I did remove the coolant reservoir completely because it was easy. I tried to remove the fuel filter but destroyed one of the fuel rubber hoses because it seemed to have formed a permanent contact with the alloy metal pipe. (I was quoted £71 for a genuine VW pair of replacement moulded pipes so I bought 1 metre of 'fuel injection pipe' for £7 and made my replacement. I unbolted the fuel filter and just moved it around still attached to 2 of the hoses.
£71 for a hose? Do they make them out of gold or encrust some jewels in them? :) I had similar story with power steering fluid lines - just bought some hose from tractor part shop.
Thanks for compliments! Glad if it helps people.
This is the best video I ever seen on youtube about any kind of jobs on cars! Thanks guys! Can't be better!
Thanks Jozsef 😊👍
First class video tells you everything you need to know and more. Keep up the good work and thanks for putting content like this on you tube .😊
Thanks Gary 👍
You guys are amazing, you both save car enthusiasts thousands of dollars. Your technical coverage is so comprehensive despite being in a tiny garage. I wish you will cover an Audi Q7 cos this will be my next project after Passat TDi.
Thanks 👍
Not sure about Q7 soon, though
An absolute top video very in depth and informative video mate I might make an attempt my self to replace the belt you make it look so easy
Thanks Akhlaq :) It is easy once you get onto it.
Thanks for making this video! What I found particularly helpful is where you give the socket/bit sizes needed. That way, if there's a particular socket I don't have then I can order one before starting the work.
I will replacing my cambelt this coming Saturday.
Incidentally, please make a video showing how to change the two rubber "dog-bone"bushes on a B6 (where the rear engine mount fits into the subframe) without using expensive specialist tools! I'm not sure it's possible - there's your challenge! :-)
Whenever I'll have B6 - I'll have a look into it. I'm not making new videos at the moment - lots of other stuff to do. I need to make one more video about Sharan AdBlue heater..
Just to say thank you for making this brilliant video,very detailed and professional.
Best wishes from Paul.
Thanks Paul 👍
Best timing belt manual! Thanks
SAM-VW Thank you :)
What a great video! I have never changed timing belt in any car, but I think, that even I could do it with the help of this video.
Oh - it's easy.
One thing I would like to point out - don't use grease on water pump O-ring. Simply moisture it with coolant. Some types of grease can eat seal slightly and it may develop a leak.
very clear guide, giving torque settings and in particular the alignment of both camshafts...which most videos omit.
Thanks Niam :)
You are using the wrong tool T10100 for the crankshaft, that's why it doesn't fit. Right tool is T10050 for this engine. Thank you for the video.
Thanks for your comment. I think I have both of them in the set. And one of them did the job, the one where "mark matches mark"
Another fantastic & very in depth video. Thank you for your time & effort to share this with us.
You're very welcome :)
Great video as always from you. You are making highlight on important things what many youtubers miss. Keep up good work 👍
Thank you :)
Cheers Mate your guide's are always good. 👍
You're welcome. Just a little update - please don't apply grease on water pump seal.
Did only I watched it fully ? great video!
No, I watched it too :)) Thank you Emils!
Best video best explanation. Huge thank you and respect
Thank you Marios :)
Brilliant video ,as to be one of the best on utube,
Thanks 😊👍
What a brilliant video! Thank you very much! 👍
You're very welcome Mr Big Keith 👍
Great Content. i enjoyed the process even though its very tedious
It's not as difficult as it looks :)
Big warning to anybody attempting this job, go to VW in advance and purchase a revised M8 to M10 tensioner pulley bolt. When you change the pulley the OE VW bolt only has thread about 8mm deep. When you swap the bolt the outer threads on the alloy head strip meaning the bolt doesn't sit deep enough and the tensioner oscillates and the bolt will snap! (Ask me how I found out). Luckily my car died whilst idling at lights and avoided damaging any valves, others have had it happen at speed and destroyed the engine. You'll need to tap out the M8 hole to M10 and also go about 5mm deeper than the existing hole to offer more support. Once you've done this use threadlock and use the revised M10 pulley bolt. My engine code is BKP but I believe this is applicable for most PD engines on their second timing belt.
Thank you so much for this video. I just changed my cambelt on my - 08 caddy 2.0 tdi, following step by step your guide. 👍
You're very welcome 👍
Thanks for this video. I got skoda octavia 2.0tdi 16v 2008 and this instruction match 100%.
Thanks 👍
Yeah this video can be applied to many VAG cars. One thing I did wrong - don't use grease on water pump O-ring, best just make it wet with coolant. Some types of grease can eat rubber and it can start leaking..
Very well explained & very good job done,you guys are got hundredStars❤ thanks a lots for sharing nice video
You're welcome 👍
I will need to change the cambelt on my 2012 Passat, sometime during the next few months. I'm hoping the techniques used i this video will help me to do mine. Thanks.
Yeah, it's easy - once you get to it.
Great video, but manufacturer states NOT to use any sealer on these type waterpump, if hole i cleaned properly the o-ring should be enough to seal.
Yes, totally agree! With experience I must say no grease either - it will eat the seal! I've described all of that on the website.
Great video, very well explained with light hearted commentary - definitely helped me do my BKD belt. Keep up the good work!
Thanks :)
Thanks for a great video! I see in the description you mention fuel injection timing. Is this relevant for common rails?
You're welcome 👍
As far as I know, common rails don't require injection timing during cambelt replacement.
Thanks. If it's not common rail, does the injector timing always need doing or is this only if there is another fault?
@@anthonylee6252 Some say that it always needs to be done, I have never done it, never had any problems.
@@wawayltd thanks very much! Cambelt kit has been ordered, seems slightly different model to the one in the video. Wish me luck! Do you have a video for injection timing?
No, sorry, I don't have a video on injection timing. No luck needed - you can do it, not a rocket science 😉
However, I wish you Happy New year 🌲
This is a very informative video and covers every aspect well. However, there was just one thing that I did not understand....when you adjusted the tensioner pully you said it was best to EXCEED the notch position as it will somehow slacken off afterwards when you tighten things up but this did not occur see 1:00:52 and I presume the belt to be overtightened for it's whole life...Could you please explain why you OVER tightened the tensioner please? Many thanks...
It does go back a little bit after 2 revolutions for adjustment. You can't see this in the video, because I didn't show it. In case if it doesn't, still according to manual - middle or up to 5mm from the middle is fine. You should see where it is after running the engine when it's hot - it's all over the place. Anyway, once you tighten tensioner correctly, don't worry about it, concentrate on correct timing adjustment.
@@wawayltd Ok thanks for the reply and the excellent video I trust your expertise :)
Excellent video mate. Gives me the confidence to try it myself.
Thanks :) If I can do it - I believe, you can do it even better. Here's the reference:
www.wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=103
GOOD WORK BEST VIDEO OF TIMING BELT THANK YOU
Thanks Giorgi :)
Hi there again. There is just one bit of info I am not clear on. At 51:44 you replace the new Idler bolt but I could not understand what torque you say it should be tightened to. You mention 90Nm and 90 deg. and then say 40Nm and 90 deg. Could you tell me what torque is correct please. Very much obliged and thanks again.
If idler roller bolt has a 12mm thread - it's 90Nm + 90°. In case if you have different engine and idler roller bolt has only 10mm thread, tightening torque for that is 40Nm + 90° further.
If you try to take 10mm to 90Nm - you'll brake the bolt. I've done it once 😁
Excellent. Many thanks. Now I can be sure what to do . By the way, is there a free online data -base for all the various tightening torques for this engine please?
Not sure about free, this is what I'm trying to do on my website. By the way completely new version is coming out soon.
Also there's this, good source, not free, but not expensive either:
erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/showHome.do
Good job tankyou for the video is professional and clean
Thanks 😊👍
Just come across this video it's brilliant very informative. Many thanks for posting .Always enjoy your videos .All the best Wheels & Motors.😊👍👍
You're very welcome Matt 👍
I'll do my best to keep it going 😎
thank you for your video. How do I turn the crankshaft if the cat is an automatic gearbox ?
Thank you
I don't have experience with automatic, sorry... Initially I wanted to say put it in neutral, but then it won't let you to take key out. I don't know how important it is. I tried to look up in Internet, can't find anything useful. I would do it in neutral, it seems more logical, but don't take my word for it, please ask some professional.
IOSIF MOCANU · I would try turning the volkswagen ignition key to the "on" position without starting the engine.
Then putting the automatic transmission gear selector to the N neutral position. Try it, might work🤔
Thanks for a great video. I think in all of the how to videos I watched, the cameraman on this one is the best. He know how to focus the camera. The question I have is this, were the intake and exhaust cam sprocket centered to begin with? Or why did you loosen the 3 bolts from each sprocket to move and centered the pins to aligning it with the holes behind the sprocket. By the way, the camera man did a good job focusing at the detail of the pin alignment.
Camshafts (intake and exhaust) should be aligned with holes in engine block by whoever fitted cambelt last time. If he didn't align them properly or with the time setting got out of the way - it's not a problem, if you can't fit locking pins while old cambelt is on, then lock them after you take it off. Camshafts are connected to sprockets by those 3 bolts through elongated holes, so you can adjust them. It doesn't matter where sprocket is, what matters is inside - camshaft - it must be aligned. That's why we loosen those 3 bolts to align camshafts with position of the belt and therefore crankshaft. We have full description at our website, hope it explain better. Please check this link:
www.wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=55
This is great, just what I needed thanks.
You're welcome :)
Does it matter which grease to use to help seal the water pump gasket?
Yes! You will be surprised - best is no grease at all! Just moisture seal with coolant. Sometimes grease may eat rubber of the seal and water pump may start leaking.
Someone made a comment about about it, I agreed and never used grease again.
If you follow link in description to my website - it says the same.
I know some mechanics use grease, but in my experience (I tried both) - no grease is the best.
@@wawayltd Ok thanks
Can I follow this procedure on my audi a3 tdi 1.9tdi 55 reg. By the way it was brilliant video.
Thanks 👍 I think 1.9 tdi is a single camshaft. If so, it would be slightly different (easier). It also depends on how the engine is positioned (along or across). I have one video for 1.9 tdi Skoda:
ruclips.net/video/LqeIe7pOVP8/видео.html
@@wawayltd thanks for the reply
@@wawayltd I saw your Skoda video yesterday . It looked similar to the engine on my car with just one cam shaft. I am going to watch this video over cos the only thing that confuses me is when it comes to locking the cam on top and the bottom 19mm bolt where you insert that special tool. I have seen those kits on ebay. They not expensive prohably 10 pounds.
@@wawayltd your videos are great my friend and absolute joy to watch. You are teaching guys like me to do repairs themselves and I really admire your efforts.
Thank you Mumtaz
My big thanks from Morocco. Helpful video.
Big welcome from Bristol, UK 😊👍
@@wawayltd Thanks. I wanna change my 2009 passat's cambelt so I did some research last night. I want to travel and it's important to avoid any unexpected risk. For me, I'm gonna change just the belts. The water pump may be later.
@@mohammedzahboune824 vw started puting new engines from 2009, so if your engine looks slightly different, then use my video about Sharan.
@@wawayltd I'll do👍👍👍
very good video. well all your videos have been very helpful to a lot of people. please keep up the good work.
Thanks :) Will do my best!
Thanks for you video,very interristing
You're very welcome 👍
Great video.... Thank you for your time and expertise.
thanks Michael :)
Brilliant Video.. best instructional video seen!
Thanks Gary 👍
@@wawayltd Do you have an email address I can contact you with as I have a problem with the same engine/car?
@@garylakey5363 I don't think I would be a great help - I'm not a mechanic 😏 I only know how to replace cambelt + few other bits..
If you like, you can share your trouble in our Facebook group. I will see it and another 200 odd people too - maybe someone will be able to help you.
Here's the link to Facebook group:
facebook.com/groups/wheelsandmotors/
@@wawayltd Ok, thanks - Will review it
Brilliant, when can I get booked in?😁
No need to book in. Job is simple - just do it at convenient for you time 🤓👍
thank you for making this video.
You're very welcome :)
Brilliant video, thank you for taking the time to make and share
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Is the cam sensor on these engines behind one of the cam pulleys?
I always thought it's on the other side of the engine.. But I'm not sure about that, sorry.
@@wawayltd I eventually found it. It's just below the right-hand pulley. You have to take the timing belt off to get to it .
How long did the whole job take?
With the filming and messing about - whole day.
How did you open the crankshaft pulley bolts without the engine spinning?
Counterhold with that 19mm spline socket.
Great video. Can I use the same procedure for VW Passat B8 2.0 TDI 2015 model?
Not quite.. Although principle is the same, if your engine is Euro 5 and engine number begins with a "C", then have a look for my video with VW Sharan, but if your engine is Euro 6 and engine number begins with a "D", I haven't done that video yet - it's even more different and requires different crankshaft locker.
Would be possible to change the camshaft sensor without taking the belt off
Sorry Michael, I don't know were it is, and I've lost access to my VW manuals. Try this:
erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/showHome.do
Man you torque those last engine mount bolts 3 times more than what they should be ... Was this your first TB job?
I got torque values from Elsawin. I know that those bolts not meant to be reused, but lot of people still do it. If I re-use I just try to be careful with those degrees - go by feel. To be honest I don't remember by now what torques I've done in that video, kind of feel lazy to look through the video. I don't think I would have it different from Elsawin..
Hi thanks for video, how many teeth should the belt have?
Don't know sorry. I just buy from part suppliers correct one.
Very good 👍🏽 , merci beaucoup ✨👏
You're very welcome 👍
Is it feasible to leave the fuel filter connected and just loosen the pipe mounts, and put it to the side? And the coolant tank too? Id rather not risk getting air in the high pressure fuel line!
I did it in my next videos for my Skoda with CXXB engine. If it's doable, you can try. I also used to worry about the air in fuel lines, but with some experience dealing with fuel filter replacement on different diesel cars, I don't think it's a big deal, as long as the air gap is not too big, so you can start the engine. Disconnecting filter like that - you don't even notice any effect when starting the engine.
@@wawayltd Good to know, thanks.
Thanks for the good video. Do you use the same procedure for the VW Passat 2.0 TDI B8 2015 model?
If your engine code starts with C, best reference I have is my video on Sharan. If it's D, then I didn't look what it's like there. Should be pretty similar.
Very good video it helped me out thanks man 👍
You're welcome Carlos :)
How did you crack the pulley wheel nut with out start the engine pls?
Sorry Mike, I don't understand your question. Which nut do I crack?
Is this the same as caddy 2.0 SDI PD timing belt?
What year is your Caddy?
Every time you undo the engine mounting bolts you need to replace them as they are only one time use. They are called stretch bolts.
A Miah I did mention that in the video. Not many garages do that though. This rule applies not only for emgime mount bolts but lots of other bolts that have Nm + degrees.
i have never done that and never had issues
A great thank you france for this good video very instuctive congratulations
Thank you Mara :)
are the tools you used to lock the pulleys and timing gears crank shaft etc. can also use in a 2009 Passat 2.0t automatic transmission if I want to replace the same parts you did? THANKS
Hi Macko, I've replied to your comment like couple days ago and for some reason it's not showing. Basically if it's 2.0tdi then yes, tools should be the same, if it's petrol/gasoline then I don't know much about those engines.
yes sir its gasoline 2.0tsi.....cause I have the same problem water pump is start to leak and I want to do it myself for garage is asking too much labor for it....thanks for the reply.
A great thank you for this good video very useful , thank you all over and over again ..
You're very welcome Hesham, glad if it helps :)
WheelsAndMotors
it help a lot
in fact I have CC 2.O TSI 2008 MODEL , i bought 4 month ago
I have no history of the car .
can you advice after how many kilometers I have to replace the timing belt ?
thanks in advance
Not sure about TSI. I know some of them have chain (older ones), some have belt. Belt is recommended to change every 60.000 miles or 5 years whichever comes first. With chain is can be more complicated - they can stretch and make noise and some trouble.
If you have no history on your 10 year old car, I would recommend to replace oil, filters, gearbox oil (if it's automatic), and belts. Or at least get someone to check them.
WheelsAndMotors
thank you so much
really appreciate.
How come you put the lollipops (lockers) in after the belt came off?
Probably, it wasn't aligned properly, so I had to take the belt off to stick lolipops.
Great video!!!!!!! Thank you
You're welcome 😎👍
Hi, is it the same procedure for b7 passat?
If it's after 2009, then engine may be different. Try watching my video about VW Sharan cambelt change.
I charge £150 labour for this job, I think I'll send this video to my customers the next time they moan about the price!
That's very reasonable price. I don't think I would do it for £150, mainly because I don't do repairs as business, so together with organising all of that it would take whole day.
I have few videos about cambelts, and I get offers in comments, asking to do their belt.
And when I ask:
- Are you sure you want to come across a country to me?
- It's not going to be cheaper than normal garage, and I'm not even qualified mechanic.. 😁
I believe customers of any business shouldn't moan about the price. There are reasons for it to be like that - they either accept it or go somewhere else!
Sorry about load of text - I'm just totally with you on this.
Happy New year! 🍾🌲🥂
@@wawayltd Thank you for the comment back and trust me, people complain about my charging them £150. I can get it done in around an hour now but they don't understand it's not about time taken with a job like this, it's the responsibility in case I make a mistake and have to either purchase the car from them or rebuild their engine for free. Thankfully, nothing like that has ever happened. The truth is though, most of the public are very cheap when it comes to car repairs. They seem to forget a car is usually their second largest asset and the one thing they depend on to actually be able to function. So, with £150 labour every 10 years I think it's very reasonable cost considering they will pay £60 for a phone contract every month or sit in a bar every Saturday and spend £50. Still, you just can't make them see that.
@@bigbill74scots something to do with you being in Scotland maybe? lol
What is the torque value for guide roller stud please? Thanks in advance
All torques and full description for this job are listed on my website (link below the video). If I remember correctly - stud to engine block is 15Nm, the nut on that stud 20Nm. Big rollers bolt was 50Nm + some degrees.
great video thankyou for share your knowledge with us
You're welcome :)
I thought if you remove coolant tank first, there is more room to work with.
What is the torque for the cooling bottle and for the fuel filter? :P
Oh that's a secret information available only to dealers 😜
hi is this the same as a 2 litre tdi engine on a skoda octavia vrs 2014? thanks
The engine on your 2014 Skoda is next generation common rail and cambelt change most likely should be like this:
ruclips.net/video/Tke2oHYHgoM/видео.html
Can you guide me on how to switch off the timing belt indicator on my polo 1.2 tdi
I don't know, sorry..
Great video. Thank you!
What's a good estimate of what a mechanic would charge to do this?
Depends where you doing it. I think at least £120-£150.
I’ve just started the job and when it came to undoing the 4 bolts on the auxiliary wheel I have noticed the wheel turning.
Would anyone know if this might cause a problem or am I ok to continue?
Thanks in advance
Sam
Do you mean engine turning while undoing those bolts?
@@wawayltd
Yes it was turning the auxiliary wheel as I was undoing the 3 bolts and I panicked. Am I right in thinking it shouldn’t matter as the belts obviously still on and it won’t mess anything up?
Thanks for getting back to us!
Your an absolute star mate!
Yes, you shold be fine. While cambelt is still on, shouldn't be a problem. Chock it or counterhold it and then undo those bolts.
@@wawayltd
I got mum to counter hold it while I loosened them 😆
Been wrestling this engine bracket trying to get it out for the last hour or two.
Thanks for your help matey!
Great video!!
So greatful, brilliant person
Hope it helps :)
Awesome video as usual.
Awsome helper and video operator ;)
Can you please help me out...my 2007 TDI 140 pd bkd engine has two different timing belts ?141 and 160 teeth ..what do I have order..
I don't know how many teeth, I always gave my car details to parts shop and they sold correct one..
I would guess that if you have 2 camshafts belt would be longer than for the engine with one.. But the best thing to do is to check with the seller.
@@wawayltd it is weird,one engine and two different kind timing belts....if I order it from cm eurocarparts .. it's 141 ...and on eBay,it can be 141 or 160 for the same engine...
@@gerolddo No. Both belts will not fit same engine. Definitely only one is suitable. Just some websites/sellers are lazy to sort it for different engines and offer both.
In all of these videos people are calling screws whether they be hex or socket head whatever
' bolts
They're calling screws nuts and all sorts the goodness a get it right because you lose a great deal of credibility when you do not use the same term I know that you people are not Engineers but mechanics other than that the video is very good
And you are not the only one most of them are doing this drives me frantic actually
I seem to suffer from that a lot! Later when I edit videos I just wonder - how could I call a bolt to be nut??
Sorry Stuart, being non-English, my mind doesn't keep up with commenting what I do in real time. I try to make it up on my website, where all description text is thought through..
Thanks for watching 😊👍
Super clip helpt a lot thx 😉
You're welcome 👍
I think the "problem" with those pins not fitting smooth in the holes is becouse you put the tensioner to tight
The arrow must be perfectly in between.. after doing 2 rotations on the crankshaft you can always adjust the tensioner if its out of place
After 2 rotations it goes back to the middle... even manual says about that arrow to be in the middle or up to 5mm to the right.
Oh yeah, pins won't normally fit after first 2 rotations, because belt stretches to it's normal position. Always needs adjustment.
@@wawayltd okay thank you for this extra info 😊
Heys, Do you by any chance know if the same torque specs applies to 2.0 tdi BMM SOCH engine as well ?
I have one video on SOHC engine, 1.9tdi:
ruclips.net/video/LqeIe7pOVP8/видео.html
And here is link to description of that job:
www.wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=74
BMM engine is probably Golf or Touran.. Just checked assembly overview - looks the same as that 1.9tdi. Torques also looks same.
Thanks! and yeah it's 2008 VW Touran, tomorrow will do my first timing belt change ever, hopefully everything will go well!
Don't blame me if it doesn't :))
Yeah, you'll be fine - it's not that difficult, once you get it
Are these engines reliable? I hear the 1.9 ones are better. Is that true?
Lot of people say that 1.9 is better. Personally I prefer latest common rail ones, like in my 2012 Sharan. But you know what is it like, it can be a lottery. I have 2 Seat Alteas 1.6tdi, both 2012 - one of them is brilliant and gives me no trouble, another with lower miles had problems with literally everything and eventually it died. It died mainly because of idiot driver that put extra 5 litres of oil in... What I'm trying to say - same engine can be different, depending how it's driven and how it's looked after. Sorry for load of text and no reasonable conclusion ;)
@@wawayltd hi pal . Your fine . I get ya. It's all about how well the car is looked after. The Passat I'm looking at is a highline 2.0 TDI with 140 k miles with full service history and top spec immaculate condition. So I'm thinking it should be ok. 140 bhp plenty of power and driving great 👍
Should be ok.
@@wawayltd I bought a beautiful b6 1.9 TDI highline
Today 2008. Full service and timing belt done. Leather interior and low miles
Nice :)
Why wudnt you do a full coolant flush surly that’s better for the car than mixing new with old?
Because I'm lazy.. 🙄
@@wawayltd lol
great video and job 1big thumb up !
Thanks Lucian :)
I had changed timing B but CAR runing very weak slow on acceleration what IT wrong with
Few questions then. What was it like before cambelt change? Did you change it by yourself? Was timing adjusted properly? Is engine rough on idle?
timing must be out a tooth
Thank you for your work
You're welcome :) Hope it will help someone..