Awesome video. Thanks for sharing it. "They don't have to be perfect, if you want 'em perfect, make 'em perfect." quote at 3:20. I think that phrase had an impact beyond it's intention.
Heard about you after Alec Steele mentioned you on his channel. The power and accuracy is just insane and you didn’t have to heat it more than a few times. Literally a blacksmith god
That is a Henry Wright anvil that was forged with a wrought iron body with a carbon steel face plate forge welded on top. The reason it is so quiet is because it is mounted down solid to a tripod stand that is anchored to a cement slab.
Mr Jsowa, I would do both. Take a good look at my hammer in the video when it is laying on my anvil and notice how i use the flat side. I tilt it to move metal and I only use the flat part when I am straightening or planishing. The flat side only has a flat spot that is smaller than a quarter, it is crowned and the edges are radised.
Thank you,excellent ,used this method after watching this the other day ,i feel like i made a leap in my skill set ,now more practice ."If you want it perfect make it perfect."
I really like you videos, Dave Custer just made me a hammer. Do you think you could show how to make a hardy edge tool. My anvil dosent have the best corners.
great technique,and you sure did displace the hell outta some material.was that 1/2in or 5/8? either way good technique to practice for consistancy use the width of anvil face to measure.think i may use this while making feather/leaf key charms.thanks for the great vid
if i may ask a question about hammer face shapes?i have two 3 lb cross peins (one new and fairly cheap) and one old i switch between the 2 the newer 1 is more rounded so it moves more metal (like i gotta tell u that) the old 1 for finishing as it has a flat more square shaped face.guess the question is of the 2 hammers which would you recommend "dressing to a happy medium".flatten the round one?,round the flat one?will either get a better result?may seem like a silly ?,but had to ask. }:o)
I encourage others to try this stuff out all the time. I should not have called that a penny scroll. I used to say it looks kind of like a penny scroll but I dont know what to call it. I call it a rolled scroll these days.
I have been practicing the 2 sided taper, an issue I am having is the top portion of the taper develops a crack at the shoulder and breaks off as I thin between the tapers. Do you have any suggestions on how to keep the top from developing the crack at the shoulder?
Luke S, without seeing it, I would suspect that you tapered that side too far too fast. It is very important not to go past a quarter of its dimension at the beginning on the far side where your ornament ( leaf, flower, or ...) is before you break down the near side closest to your hold. After you have developed a smaller bar or taper in between your shoulders, you can then go past a quarter of the original stock's dimension. A quarter of its dimension refers to the original stock being divided by 4 in its cross section. So if you were starting with 1/2 inch stock round or square, one quarter of its dimension would be 1/4 inches round or square. I hope this is understood by you. If not, let me know, and I will try and explain better.
after watching many blacksmithing videos I've noticed that most guys "choke up" the handle; that is to hold the hammer handle closer to the head than the tail end. Is there any reason for this? Does it give you more control that way, cuz I've always known that by holding a hammer closer to the tail end of the handle you get better leverage and a more powerful blow.
Control is the main reason. you are correct about the power and leverage while using the length of your handle. with a heavier hammer though, that is negated. hammering with a heavy hammer would over work yourself and your average material if you held back on your handle. consider wielding a sledge hammer, the effects would be the same. also, the ability to tilt your hammer in any direction can be achieved by loosely holding your hammer up by the head to strike your material precisely.
Хобби
best quote 'if you want 'em perfect just make 'em perfect." Gold
wow I've been watching so many leaf videos but finally stumbled upon the long lost art of flower making in this 8 year old video!
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing it.
"They don't have to be perfect, if you want 'em perfect, make 'em perfect." quote at 3:20. I think that phrase had an impact beyond it's intention.
I'm just showing a technique that can be used in many ways to displace material. Give it a try until you succeed.
Heard about you after Alec Steele mentioned you on his channel. The power and accuracy is just insane and you didn’t have to heat it more than a few times. Literally a blacksmith god
Seems so strange people learning about Brian from Alec. Should be other way around. Alec studied with Brian when he was barely out of toddler stage...
@@ericsprado4631 Brian clearly isnt much of a youtuber. Alec however is actually quite a huge youtuber. So its not that strange.
I only have a lifetime of experience. Alec is my favorite student, and has applied his knowledge well
Found you while watching Alec Steel. You sir are an artist and a genius in your simplistic beauty!
Thanks for watching, Brian and I are working on some upcoming projects and hopefully new and better videos too. :) Karen
That is a Henry Wright anvil that was forged with a wrought iron body with a carbon steel face plate forge welded on top. The reason it is so quiet is because it is mounted down solid to a tripod stand that is anchored to a cement slab.
Mr Jsowa, I would do both. Take a good look at my hammer in the video when it is laying on my anvil and notice how i use the flat side. I tilt it to move metal and I only use the flat part when I am straightening or planishing. The flat side only has a flat spot that is smaller than a quarter, it is crowned and the edges are radised.
That was a good video.... I learned something new.....Thanks :)
Thank you,excellent ,used this method after watching this the other day ,i feel like i made a leap in my skill set ,now more practice ."If you want it perfect make it perfect."
😂way😅 😊 oh WD jhey hell 😂d❤w ❤the way you are doing it 😂😂😂 😂 I sw❤❤w ssssweswwssw😂😂😂m pop ok hawk
Good stuff!
Well done! Great hammer by the way!
Yeah, superb looking hammer, that's a lot of weight to control to work with, and of course...fast! Just a little flower...Blam!
I really like you videos, Dave Custer just made me a hammer. Do you think you could show how to make a hardy edge tool. My anvil dosent have the best corners.
thank you,and will do.
thank you, it is 1/2 inch. Keep practicing, i will keep watching.
great technique,and you sure did displace the hell outta some material.was that 1/2in or 5/8? either way good technique to practice for consistancy use the width of anvil face to measure.think i may use this while making feather/leaf key charms.thanks for the great vid
quick question what made you decide to take down 1/2 stock instead of maybe just forge welding a button on quarter inch?
Wish you did seminars in Central Florida
You or your association just have to set it up. I'll go just about anywhere in the world to help out.
Brian Brazeal wow! I’m going to make this happen.
Hi Brian how heavy is your hammer? Youre really moving that metal with seemingly average blows
if i may ask a question about hammer face shapes?i have two 3 lb cross peins (one new and fairly cheap) and one old i switch between the 2 the newer 1 is more rounded so it moves more metal (like i gotta tell u that) the old 1 for finishing as it has a flat more square shaped face.guess the question is of the 2 hammers which would you recommend "dressing to a happy medium".flatten the round one?,round the flat one?will either get a better result?may seem like a silly ?,but had to ask. }:o)
I noticed you started with your bar stock that was cut off with one of your cut hardies, does that help with the top of the hexagon
Yes it does. A cut to the center will help you with a lot of forgings.
I have a swage block just that! ;)
Why'd you stick it on the wood near the end?
That’s a great flower 🌸 and penny scroll. Would you mind if I make them? I will keep all I make.
I encourage others to try this stuff out all the time. I should not have called that a penny scroll. I used to say it looks kind of like a penny scroll but I dont know what to call it. I call it a rolled scroll these days.
I have been practicing the 2 sided taper, an issue I am having is the top portion of the taper develops a crack at the shoulder and breaks off as I thin between the tapers. Do you have any suggestions on how to keep the top from developing the crack at the shoulder?
Luke S, without seeing it, I would suspect that you tapered that side too far too fast. It is very important not to go past a quarter of its dimension at the beginning on the far side where your ornament ( leaf, flower, or ...) is before you break down the near side closest to your hold. After you have developed a smaller bar or taper in between your shoulders, you can then go past a quarter of the original stock's dimension.
A quarter of its dimension refers to the original stock being divided by 4 in its cross section. So if you were starting with 1/2 inch stock round or square, one quarter of its dimension would be 1/4 inches round or square. I hope this is understood by you. If not, let me know, and I will try and explain better.
after watching many blacksmithing videos I've noticed that most guys "choke up" the handle; that is to hold the hammer handle closer to the head than the tail end.
Is there any reason for this?
Does it give you more control that way, cuz I've always known that by holding a hammer closer to the tail end of the handle you get better leverage and a more powerful blow.
Control is the main reason. you are correct about the power and leverage while using the length of your handle. with a heavier hammer though, that is negated. hammering with a heavy hammer would over work yourself and your average material if you held back on your handle. consider wielding a sledge hammer, the effects would be the same. also, the ability to tilt your hammer in any direction can be achieved by loosely holding your hammer up by the head to strike your material precisely.
That's what I was thinking. Thanks for clarifying that.
Why did you hit the steel into a block of wood? Is this just to avoid ruining work or does it have some hidden meaning?
It gives it some shape or life, and yes, the wood protects the piece from getting dinged up.
To dish it.
Zer gut.