Excellent tutorial! I don't have a Hobie Cat, but I just got an old 1974 Maco 15' catamaran, and I'm picking it up tomorrow. This was SUPER informative and you're an excellent teacher Mr. Bennett!
Joe, you’re the ayatollah of rock ‘n’ rolla … Or at least the hobby guru… It’s amazing to me that after all of these years, Hobie have never come up with better videos and assembly manuals… Your videos and information are a godsend… Thank you!
I wish I could give this video more than one like. Thanks for the excellent descriptions, instructions, and tips! I bought (and am fixing) my 1972 Hobie 16 this year because as a kid, my best friend's dad took us out on his all the time. Some of my best memories. But 15-20 years is a long time to remember how to set her up! Hopefully I'll get her in the water in the next few weeks!
Thanks, I'm very pleased that the information came across well and that you're getting you're 72 back in thew water - maybe some pictures for Show us your cat!
I raced my Hobie 16' that I bought new in 1970 for almost 20 years. Sailed against Hobie himself several times, and pulled a horizon job on him in the Mid-winters East. My sail # was 4406. What is the # on your '72?
Super informative, thank you very much - Have just watched two of your videos and am about to go out and sail a hobie cat for the first time. Whoop whoop
@@JoyriderTV what do you think of the dyneema, spectra metal-less shackles? just wondering about traditionalists think about it. i see you are always using metal shackles
This is a great video with great information. Your trapeze connection at 27:45 reminded me of something. You can get plastic balls with holes in them to attach to ropes with just a knot. Run the rope through the hole, tie a Figure 8, and it's locked in. Tie a red, one-inch, ball onto the elastic coming up through the trampoline and use red rope on the crew's trapeze. Then at the end of the line on the trapeze, tie a loop (bowline). When you want to connect the trapeze to the elastic, slip the red ball through the red loop. For the skipper use a blue ball and blue trapeze line. And I would duplicate the entire process with another set of holes in the tramp about 6 inches aft of the crew's elastic. That way the skipper doesn't have to look around to find his trapeze hook.
Ahoy from Canada and the North Channel. My friend and I have Hobie 16's (and an 18) and enjoy your videos. I've learned a lot from you in the few weeks of watching. Keep up the great work. Kyle Byron.
So, you combined all of the vids for a complete assembly video, that's cool!!! I've watched all of the videos concerning this anyway, well, I watch every video you upload, so, I'm a fan of yours Joe because you are the "go-to" guru for cats, especially the Hobie 16, "Show Us Your Cat" ep#2 is my boat,(thumbnail), thank you for that, I never take mine apart, but it is nice to know how to put it all back together in case I ever do. As always, Joe, Love the vids and you never fail to amuse, and inform. Keep 'em coming bro!!! I would Love to meet you someday and have a vacation at Wildwind there, looks like some champagne sailing area for sure. Cheers!!!!
This is actually all new. I thought it would be good to have one video that would cover the whole process. I thought I could get it down to 25 minutes. That trampoline though! Cheers
Hey Marty, dismantling the Hobie was something I realized after buying my 16 when Joe posted his original video some time ago. This was a huge relief for me because I was unsure what I would do with mine in the winter months. Now it takes up very little room during storage and disassembly/reassembly has become somewhat of a ritual (sadly though at the end of the season). Also a good time to inspect conditions of riggings etc... Such a smart feature for Hobie Alter to incorporate in his design.
An easy way to ensure your wires are not twisted is lay them out on the ground behind the boat prior to setup. Then just walk the mast forward to the beam and plug and play each side and your up.
Nice video, What we usualy use instead of electrical tape is self vulcanizing rubbertape. it works perfect even in hotter climates and doesnt leav a sticky residue after removing. And it last a whole year.
It's kinda cool to see the differences between these newer boats and my 1981 hobie 16. There are definitely a lot of things that are the same but there are also some things that they definitely changed up over the decades. For instance my boat only has one trapeze on each side. The tramp on my boat is more of a solid vinyl and doesn't have pockets I just slide the coiled line behind the rigging so it's pinned against the mast. There are adjustable jib travelers but it has a pin to hold it in place and doesn't have a line to adjust it. I don't have any rigging for the downhaul I just have to use the cleet and brute force. The sails are different too I don't have any windows and it just has the hobie logo no text outside the numbers in mine however I do have the very pretty tequila sunrise sails as my primary set of sails. My grandma actually special ordered the boat to have white hulls a blue tramp and the tequila sunrise sails. That combination was not an option so the dealership took two different boats and took them apart to give my grandpa the combination he wanted. I actually still have all the paperwork and letters for all the interactions he had with the dealership to buy the boat. Also to raise the sail solo I recommend landing it on the beach backwards su the front end of the boat is down as much as you can get it. Then when you put the mast up the lines on the side hold it in place while you go secure the front line. My grandpa taught me that and said he learned it from a racing team way back when he first got the boat.
Wow, that's so cool that you had a 16 fresh from the factory back in the day. I should have a video coming this weekend showing the new 2022 boats and the new features.
Love all your videos but when you tie off your jib halyard on the horn ( although just cosmetics ) my ocd would made me turn the last & finishing loop invert the other way making halyard lay beside each other nice & pretty instead of on top , your a lucky man working on the water, I did it the 90s when I was young at Lakeside Sailing in Guntersville AL full service Marina & Hobie dealer have a breezy day
I used to assemble Hobies for a dealership while in high school. We never used grease, just pounded them together with rubber mallets so they were more rigid as the aluminum oxidized and expanded the frame became more rigid which is a good thing. We called them the cross beams and the side beams. Use a stainless steel nylock nut on the inside of the casting (under the trampoline) so it cannot cut you. A stainless steel nylock nut will never loosen, so you never have to worry about it. Some silicon spray makes it even easier to slide the bolt ropes. Polypropylene stretches less than nylon for the tramp lines., makes it less bouncy. Center the grommets between the corresponding grommets on the other side and you will have fewer wrinkles. Vice grips make the tramp lacing easier. Don't pull on a grommet so hard as to create a wrinkle. A center punch will keep the rudder pin from mushrooming. The mast bearings are Teflon. Make your own and save a lot of money. You can buy some thicker Teflon that lasts longer from Amazon. I like the idea of using VHS tape. I used to use cassette tape. Ideally, you want to rinse your sails after sailing, let them dry and then stow them. The swage on the halyard presses against the fork when in the locked position.....not against the shackle or the rope. The tension comes off of the forestay and onto the bolt rope (cable) luff of the sail when tightening the jib. Leave your mainsheet very loose when on the beach.....jib too., so the boat does not capsize on its own.
There's halyard locks at reefing points? Could you show that some time? I had a 1986 H18 and getting the halyard to lock or unlock was an art, and very frustrating at first! It seems that Hobie has made that system much easier now. I remember my hands were torn up from pulling the main up. And i was used to crazy downhaul on my windsurfing rigs.
Love your video's. You're the 16 specialist, have been sailing the 16 in the 80's but changed along the way to the Prindle 16. Now I am in the process of refurbishing a Prindle 18 but it proves hard to get information the way you do it. Would you considder a tutorial for this lady?
Hello JoyRider, really your videos are awesomes, thanks for that. I'm preparing my boat and I have a quick question: : Do you know the length of the jib and mainsail sheets? Thanks a lot Eduardo
The snap shackle is an awesome idea… I’ve tried it myself, but unfortunately it won’t fit onto the boom on the North American boats, (the boom block hanger has a very small gap)… I use it for the jib though...Great for de-powering the jib as I come on shore as I have a string attached to the end and I just give that a tug to set the jib free.
Really great video. I am hoping you can answer a question for me. I bought an old Hobie 16 that I am trying to setup. How far apart on the main halyard should the lugs be? The first lug lines up fine with the reef point but the second does not and no matter how hard I pull I cannot get these second lug to the V notch. It also seems that the sail will top out before or just as that happens. Any guidance or suggestions are appreciated.
Hold that thought. There's a much better way. Vice grips bang up your knuckles and break the strands of the rope. But first of all, at 8:15 you say any 4mm rope can be used to tighten the trampoline. Not true. You cannot use nylon based rope, because it stretches every time it gets wet. I tried that starting with 50 ft of rope. That season I pulled off 150 feet of rope that had stretched out. The next season I switched to a cheap polyester rope (NOT polypropylene) from the hardware store. Or you could use expensive Dacron rope from the boat shop. When you are tightening the rope, find two tapered pins that will jam into the grommet holes and pinch the rope. Mine were aluminum but wood would be fine. As you tighten the rope, keep moving the pins down to keep the rope from backing off. To tighten I use a pair of pliers between the two pins. Run the rope through the pliers and twist it until the formerly tight pin loosens. Then move that pin down to the last tight hole and jam it in. That's easier to see in a video demo - too bad I don't have one. Murray's Marine used to sell a kit with two belaying pins and one tightener. The pins are so effective you can sit on the tramp and tighten the middle. You do have to be a little careful not to break the side rails from over tightening. I used to use an XXXXXX pattern instead of VVVVVVVV pattern. I've seen X|X|X|X|X|X|X|X patterns to really keep stuff from falling through the middle. One more thing. Before tightening the tramp, measure the cross diagonal distances from the bridle tang to the opposite rudder pin. Those should be exactly the same distance before tightening the tramp. Use the main sheet harness on the long side diagonal pylons to adjust.
Hi Joe This is James from Knysna South Africa....I have sailed Hobie 14 for many years and have just aquired an old Hobie 16. All I need to know what is the correct length of the port and starboard shrouds l think my shrouds have stretch a lot. Thanks for your great series l enjoy all your knowledge and watching you preform. Kind Regards James SA
Thanks for all your videos. Got me into the game. However, I was wondering if you could put on a video on how to pull in and out a hobie 16 from a beachy sand. What pressure do you put in the tire trolley, etc. ty
Unfortunately I don't have a sandy beach here to demo that. The only advice i'd have is (if you budget allows) get a big wheel trolley - so much easier on any terrain.
Hi Joe, love watching your videos! I am surprised that you only hand tightened the frame to the castings. My 2008 Hobie 16 is too loose for comfort and I am considering applying epoxy. How tight should I tighten the bolt on the casting?
Only hand tight as you can't compress the castings. Epoxy is a popular choice if you never want to take your boat apart. I feel however, if it's an older boat it mights stress the pylons inside the hulls. Packing the pylons with plastic i think is a better option.
@@JoyriderTV I need to scrub my hulls and replace the tramp. I am a little Leary of taking her out on the bay. We have a good size lake that dumps in the bay with good winds. I am thinking about selling this boat. I own a J24 as well.
Hi ! Joseph can you show us the way you change the shroud adjuster cover for new ones (new cover) ! I have a Hobie 16 and i have to change the covers, but to go throug the thimble, it’s a bit tight and i don’t want to make a mistake ! Thanks a lot, don’t change anything ! All the best from Brittany Sébastien
Due to a shoulder issue, I was wondering if it would be okay to just secure the main halyard to the mast instead of securing the locking lug onto the hook on the mast? I only sail on a lake in winds less than 15 knots. Trying to unhook that lug after a long day of sailing is kind of rough on a guy with a bad shoulder. Thoughts comments appreciated.
If it was lighter wind it would be OK. The downsides would be that it would not hold the sail as high to the top of the mast and it would put more strain on the cleat at the bottom of the mast - which is not designed for load that high
@@JoyriderTV Dang!! I had not even thought about the extra load on the cleat. Glad I asked you before I tried it. I greatly appreciate your channel and the quality production of your videos. I always learn something new. Thank you so much for all of your help.
Excellent video dude, as you know I have done this many times and yet I still found it compelling viewing !! With the maintenance vids can I request you draw inspiration from the days of the master craftsman that was the booze-son and do some glass fibre repairs using razor blades ??
Thanks for doing this mate! Very helpful as I’ve just put my 1985 Hobie 16 on the beach! Still needs a bit of fine tuning. A question for you: I currently have it on a mooring but do you think that’s wise? With it grounding and floating twice a day could it cause damage to the hulls?
I wouldn't leave it on a mooring all of the time, I think it being constantly in the water might increase the chance of hulls going soft. I don't think it touching the bottom is an issue.
Any tips for removing frame from hulls/pylons? 1 of 4 stuck. Pounded w/ rubber hammer, gave 1". Tried scissor jack but hard to get positioned right. ???
I think you have mentioned this in other videos but it’s tough to find: how much flex should be able to happen between the hulls? If you lift one bow how stiff should it be to the other hull? And what makes this more rigid if it’s not? When I lift one of my bows the other stays put and I can see the frame torquing as if the joins need to be tightened. The tramp is old so is that the cause?
What that is probably that the castings or pylons that they sit on have significant wear. This is inevitable over time. Tightening the tramp will help. When you have rig tension on that will help What you can do is try packing some plastic (like old detergent bottle material) into the gap between the pylon and casting.
Great video thank you! I have rigged a Hobie 14 many times, but I just picked up a Prindle 16 (1982). Any chance you could do a rigging video for Prindle, or are they basically the same? This will be my first experience with anything by Prindle. Can't wait ti get back on the water!
Really great video thanks. Quite a fandango, Dart 18 all's forgiven. Do you need to measure the mast rake or is it pretty much set in one position? Looks very raked back. We used to spray some silicone lube along the mast track or bolt rope- goes up a dream.
The mast rake is set with the shrouds and then the rig tension is on the jib. So when we're ready to sail the mast will be more upright. I just use water on the sail to help it up the mast.
Fantastic video! When I click on the amazon link for the "Sailing gear hand picked - including the snap shackle" I get a white screen (no parts). Can you list the Amazon part number/name for the gear - or at least the snap shackle? I waste too much time attaching the main sheet to the boom at the end of the boat ramp!
Nice video! I was wondering if the castings at the corners of the trampoline are made of plastics or metal, and what's the purpose of the rivets. Thank you
Once you adjusted rake with the jib halyard, what happened to the tension on the forestay?? I sail a 29er and i just bought an old hobie14.. it seems the rig tensions is much less on these cats.
We get pretty loose shrouds when sailing with the tension eased. Because the jib luff is holding the mast up, the actual forestay is totally loose when the boat is rigged.
Hello, do you thing tightening the jib more than the forestay can cause all the load to be transferred to the jib, potentially leading to issues ? Or is it supposed to be like that ? I know that in our Hobie 18 manual, they say to make sure that the forestay is always tighter than the jib for that reason. Thank you for the very informative video, can't wait to get back on the water with the 16 this afternoon
Very helpful. I have had my 16 for many years and never have I found as good of a resource. In regards to the Jib and the tension on the forestay: Once you have put the tension on the Jib and the forestay is hanging loose, do you "take up the slack" by moving to a different hole on the chain plate or do you leave it slack?
@@JoyriderTV I had no idea the jib itself was supposed to take the rig tension! Been doing it wrong for a few years, apparently! Thank you so much for that little bit of information.
Awesome videos, I've been watching a lot of your videos lately and it's motivating me to get my 1987 Hobie 16 water worthy (new tramp, new lines). I've never sailed before and was wondering if you think the 16 is too much boat for a beginner. Also, what are the most common mistakes beginners make when they first go out.
The 16 isn't too much as a beginner as long as you don't try with too much wind. Here are a few points from an article that i'm writing: Location: A lake or reservoir or location with no or little tide/current. Plenty of space and not too many other water users. Easy launching - a good slipway or access point would make things easier. No big hazards, or even small hazards (the list could be huge) - underwater rocks, commercial boats / ships, angry or potentially threatening creatures, angry or potentially threatening fishermen! Fewer obstructions to the wind would be better - buildings, trees etc Other safe places to land would be nice - just in case things don’t go so well. Safety cover - not always available but, of course, a massive bonus! Conditions: Light, steady wind - between 3 and 6 knots (3.5 - 7 mph, force 1 - 2) More wind will make things happen more quickly, less and you might not be able to get moving at all. The water state wants to be as flat as possible - any waves would make everything more difficult and unnerving. The wind should be ideally onshore or cross-onshore - so if it will be much easier to get back to your starting point. Offshore winds should definitely be avoided as getting back could be an issue.
@@JoyriderTV Thanks for the info this will for sure help. I have a vacation home that I go to often. The lake next to the home is this one goo.gl/maps/7txWjfdEMzr2kKZL7 I'm just wondering if that's too small to learn on. The good thing about it is there are not many people on the lake but it's not that big. The other option is this lake goo.gl/maps/9T112XHiDtW99Pxd8 It's a lot bigger but has a lot of traffic on the lake usually. There's a lot of space so I'm sure there are areas I can find with less traffic. Both of these lakes are really shallow. I was wondering if I did go over with the average depth being around 15 feet in both lakes would you see any issues with the boat turtling and getting stuck in the soft bottom? I'm debating on buying the mast float but they're not cheap.
Is it the case that these boats shouldnt really be assembled and broken down too often? The reason i ask is, im wondering how realistic it is to tour around in my motorhome with one disassembled on the roof. Obviously. Assembling it woild be a nuisance and noy practical if you're only sailing for a day or two. But if youre staying in one place for a week or two, would it make it more feasible? Or are there other performance cats more suited to that job? Cheers for any info.
If having it on the roof was your only option - maybe a custom rack that would take it at its built width. A two piece mast would be necessary. I'll talk about this in this week's q+a
Great video why doesn’t the manufacture limit how far the traveler can go since you’re doing it anyway with your knot. I’ve had the travelers shoot out to the edge when I was sailing and I didn’t like it
I think if they limited them, the car would still hit the end - or what ever was restricting them. The knot helps to prevent traveller car destruction.
Got a question about the Hobies. I'm a disabled guy into sailing. Is it possible to increase the width of the boat to increase stability? - without causing the hulls to submerge.
Hey Joe I mounted a winch on my trailer w pulley at top of mast holder to lift mast by myself. The winch bent the mast pole holder Over. Ugh! The mast is too heavy. Help
I think that to use this kind of winch system you need to lift the mast to around 45 degrees before you start, otherwise the leverage needed is too great. Then the winch can be lower down and not risk damaging the mast crutch.
Hobie supply plastic nuts with the boats - it's just how it's always been - just to stop the bolt from coming out. No problem with using a metal nut but careful not to over tighten.
Thanks for these great videos, Joe...! I recommend this channel to all my Hobie sailing friends. Quick question: What length shrouds do you use on your Hobie 16's? I have an early 80's boat and I can't get my mast rake back as far as you do, and I'm in the lowest hole settings. (Mast still almost vertical) Gonna update some rig over the winter and my go-to parts place offers a couple of different lengths.
@@JoyriderTV Thanks Joe..I'm on Seneca Lake, in NY...heart of the incredible Finger Lakes Wine Region. Sailing Hobies and other racing boats my whole life (60 yrs old..!) I usually order from "Murrays Sports" in California. They have a stock length (18"-10.25"... in 2 different guage wire) but also ask to specify length.
Mast rake aft is determined by the tension on your jib halyard as well as the length of your forestay, not the length of your shrouds. Normally your forestay will be a little loose.
I've often wondered that myself. Maybe to prevent corrosion. Maybe the plastic doesn't vibrate loose like a SS one would. Maybe because it's cheaper. Maybe to stop people damaging their casting by making it too tight - that's probably the most likely.
Great video. I’ve never sailed a Hobie cat before. Just looking into it now. I’m surprised by how much the jib halyard controls the rig tuning. Very interesting.
is it easier to see sharks on a Hobie-16? Or have you ever seen a real mean one (shark?) I realize that's like winning the lottery or getting hit by lighting, but I figured I'd at least ask if you ever saw one. Thanks!!
Awesome video! If you put away any sail soaked in fresh water it will grow mildew/algae/fungi..... putting away a sail soaked in salt water?...nothing will grow on it.... for centuries I haven't rinse my windsurfing equipment with fresh water... EVER... The only (natural) thing that destroy your equipment is sun light hours and normal wear.
I would guess that Hobie us a plastic nut to reduce the risk of chemical reaction between the aluminium and the nut, also to make sure that it's not done up to tight with could crack the casting.
I think once you've done it a few times and you're familiar with the process you could have the boat ready to sail in under an hour - it's the trampoline which is the time consuming part.
Great video! I raced in the 80s . We did all this . Nothing missing but the righting line setup.
Yes, I've heard that - I use the simple system rather than the Hawaiian
Excellent tutorial! I don't have a Hobie Cat, but I just got an old 1974 Maco 15' catamaran, and I'm picking it up tomorrow. This was SUPER informative and you're an excellent teacher Mr. Bennett!
Thank you so much!
wow , let us know how the Maco is getting along, that's a nice size cat !! What is the minimum acreage lake that would be needed for 15' cat and up?
Joe, you’re the ayatollah of rock ‘n’ rolla … Or at least the hobby guru… It’s amazing to me that after all of these years, Hobie have never come up with better videos and assembly manuals… Your videos and information are a godsend… Thank you!
You are very welcome.
I wish I could give this video more than one like. Thanks for the excellent descriptions, instructions, and tips!
I bought (and am fixing) my 1972 Hobie 16 this year because as a kid, my best friend's dad took us out on his all the time. Some of my best memories. But 15-20 years is a long time to remember how to set her up! Hopefully I'll get her in the water in the next few weeks!
Thanks, I'm very pleased that the information came across well and that you're getting you're 72 back in thew water - maybe some pictures for Show us your cat!
I raced my Hobie 16' that I bought new in 1970 for almost 20 years. Sailed against Hobie himself several times, and pulled a horizon job on him in the Mid-winters East. My sail # was 4406. What is the # on your '72?
Thank you so much. I went step by step through this video to decipher all the ropes and pulleys.
Glad it helped! Did you end up with a functioning catamaran?
One of your best videos. thank you for all of your instruction
Glad it was helpful!
Thank-you so much. A friend just got one and had no idea how to put it together. This will help a great deal.
Glad I could help!
Super informative, thank you very much - Have just watched two of your videos and am about to go out and sail a hobie cat for the first time. Whoop whoop
Good luck! Have fun! You're going to love it!!
joe, thanks so much - your channel is SOOO informative - much appreciated. just bought an 84 H16 and I've watched this video multiple times.
Glad to help
@@JoyriderTV what do you think of the dyneema, spectra metal-less shackles? just wondering about traditionalists think about it. i see you are always using metal shackles
I have a used Hobie 16 showing up today (my first one) and this gives me an idea of what to look for. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
How long of a mast do I need for a 16 ft hobie?
This is a great video with great information. Your trapeze connection at 27:45 reminded me of something. You can get plastic balls with holes in them to attach to ropes with just a knot. Run the rope through the hole, tie a Figure 8, and it's locked in. Tie a red, one-inch, ball onto the elastic coming up through the trampoline and use red rope on the crew's trapeze. Then at the end of the line on the trapeze, tie a loop (bowline). When you want to connect the trapeze to the elastic, slip the red ball through the red loop. For the skipper use a blue ball and blue trapeze line. And I would duplicate the entire process with another set of holes in the tramp about 6 inches aft of the crew's elastic. That way the skipper doesn't have to look around to find his trapeze hook.
Nice idea, especially if you're rigging and re-rigging quite regularly.
Cheers
Ahoy from Canada and the North Channel. My friend and I have Hobie 16's (and an 18) and enjoy your videos. I've learned a lot from you in the few weeks of watching. Keep up the great work. Kyle Byron.
Thanks Kyle, more coming up. plenty in the archives.
So, you combined all of the vids for a complete assembly video, that's cool!!! I've watched all of the videos concerning this anyway, well, I watch every video you upload, so, I'm a fan of yours Joe because you are the "go-to" guru for cats, especially the Hobie 16, "Show Us Your Cat" ep#2 is my boat,(thumbnail), thank you for that, I never take mine apart, but it is nice to know how to put it all back together in case I ever do. As always, Joe, Love the vids and you never fail to amuse, and inform. Keep 'em coming bro!!! I would Love to meet you someday and have a vacation at Wildwind there, looks like some champagne sailing area for sure. Cheers!!!!
This is actually all new. I thought it would be good to have one video that would cover the whole process. I thought I could get it down to 25 minutes. That trampoline though!
Cheers
Hey Marty, dismantling the Hobie was something I realized after buying my 16 when Joe posted his original video some time ago. This was a huge relief for me because I was unsure what I would do with mine in the winter months. Now it takes up very little room during storage and disassembly/reassembly has become somewhat of a ritual (sadly though at the end of the season). Also a good time to inspect conditions of riggings etc... Such a smart feature for Hobie Alter to incorporate in his design.
@@JoyriderTV hey sorry I thought they were the same videos, but yeah, that trampoline kind of slows things down. Lol.
I hadn't realized that the Jib makes the rigging tention. We had it just flopping about really. Great tip!
Yeah, for the 16 it's essential.
@@JoyriderTV How about with a jib furler? I have one, don't know how to rig properly...
An easy way to ensure your wires are not twisted is lay them out on the ground behind the boat prior to setup. Then just walk the mast forward to the beam and plug and play each side and your up.
Top tip!
Thanks.
Super in-depth! Much appreciated 👍
Glad it was helpful! Thanks very much for the donation!
Thanks Joseph, really useful , i am building a Cat in Philippines and your assembly and rigging has been very helpful. Regards Sean
Great to hear! Let me know if you get stuck
Dude, you are awesome for doing this!!
Thanks
Nice video, What we usualy use instead of electrical tape is self vulcanizing rubbertape. it works perfect even in hotter climates and doesnt leav a sticky residue after removing. And it last a whole year.
Yes, that's the good stuff! It's too expensive for us, we do use it on pins that are definitely going to be staying in for the foreseeable.
Hey Joseph Bennet, thank you for this video.It helped me a lot. Yes it was very useful and informative!!
Glad it was helpful!
It's kinda cool to see the differences between these newer boats and my 1981 hobie 16. There are definitely a lot of things that are the same but there are also some things that they definitely changed up over the decades. For instance my boat only has one trapeze on each side. The tramp on my boat is more of a solid vinyl and doesn't have pockets I just slide the coiled line behind the rigging so it's pinned against the mast. There are adjustable jib travelers but it has a pin to hold it in place and doesn't have a line to adjust it. I don't have any rigging for the downhaul I just have to use the cleet and brute force. The sails are different too I don't have any windows and it just has the hobie logo no text outside the numbers in mine however I do have the very pretty tequila sunrise sails as my primary set of sails. My grandma actually special ordered the boat to have white hulls a blue tramp and the tequila sunrise sails. That combination was not an option so the dealership took two different boats and took them apart to give my grandpa the combination he wanted. I actually still have all the paperwork and letters for all the interactions he had with the dealership to buy the boat. Also to raise the sail solo I recommend landing it on the beach backwards su the front end of the boat is down as much as you can get it. Then when you put the mast up the lines on the side hold it in place while you go secure the front line. My grandpa taught me that and said he learned it from a racing team way back when he first got the boat.
Wow, that's so cool that you had a 16 fresh from the factory back in the day.
I should have a video coming this weekend showing the new 2022 boats and the new features.
Incredibly helpful!! Thank you!
You're very welcome!
Thank you.
I had forgotten a lot
You're welcome
Excellent and informative. Looking to my first season with my recently bought 1986 Hobie 16.
Glad it was helpful!
I’ve just started sailing with the Hobie16 so thanks for this excellent explanation.
Really helpful 👍
I'm glad that it was helpful. Cheers
Parfait, comme d'habitude !!!! Go on !!!
Another great presentation. Many thanks 😎🤘
Glad that it was useful.
Excellent review / instructions
Thank you kindly!
Thanks for this video. great to have a reference..I'll go no and get my V8 tape out of my closet. Finally some way t make use of that :)
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks man thats a great video can't wait to see more
Glad you enjoyed it
this is so helpful i love your channel
Thank you so much!
In Germany we are allowed to sail next week. 🙌🏻
What do you mean?
He means he doesn't live in a free country.
What at great video! Awesome mate
Thanks very much. I'm glad that you enjoyed it.
Nice tips thanks !!
Happy to help!
Love all your videos but when you tie off your jib halyard on the horn ( although just cosmetics ) my ocd would made me turn the last & finishing loop invert the other way making halyard lay beside each other nice & pretty instead of on top , your a lucky man working on the water, I did it the 90s when I was young at Lakeside Sailing in Guntersville AL full service Marina & Hobie dealer have a breezy day
Yes, for sure with the horn cleat - I( should have paid more attention when doing it in the video.
I like the safety measures taping the split rings of the forestays Windvane bingo Bango bongo bung
Thanks
Very nice loved it
Thank you so much 😊
Thanks Dude, super helpful!👍
Glad it helped!
I used to assemble Hobies for a dealership while in high school. We never used grease, just pounded them together with rubber mallets so they were more rigid as the aluminum oxidized and expanded the frame became more rigid which is a good thing. We called them the cross beams and the side beams. Use a stainless steel nylock nut on the inside of the casting (under the trampoline) so it cannot cut you. A stainless steel nylock nut will never loosen, so you never have to worry about it. Some silicon spray makes it even easier to slide the bolt ropes. Polypropylene stretches less than nylon for the tramp lines., makes it less bouncy. Center the grommets between the corresponding grommets on the other side and you will have fewer wrinkles. Vice grips make the tramp lacing easier. Don't pull on a grommet so hard as to create a wrinkle. A center punch will keep the rudder pin from mushrooming. The mast bearings are Teflon. Make your own and save a lot of money. You can buy some thicker Teflon that lasts longer from Amazon. I like the idea of using VHS tape. I used to use cassette tape. Ideally, you want to rinse your sails after sailing, let them dry and then stow them. The swage on the halyard presses against the fork when in the locked position.....not against the shackle or the rope. The tension comes off of the forestay and onto the bolt rope (cable) luff of the sail when tightening the jib. Leave your mainsheet very loose when on the beach.....jib too., so the boat does not capsize on its own.
Hi David,
Thanks very much for all of your insights. There's always more to learn with any types of boat.
Great tips.
You are awesome, thanks
Thanks!
Wow great Joe. Can you do a similar vid for the C2 F18 please.?
I can't in the near future. I'll get it on the list for the off season.
There's halyard locks at reefing points? Could you show that some time?
I had a 1986 H18 and getting the halyard to lock or unlock was an art, and very frustrating at first! It seems that Hobie has made that system much easier now. I remember my hands were torn up from pulling the main up. And i was used to crazy downhaul on my windsurfing rigs.
Only on the 16 which uses the wire to lock in. No such lock on an 18. I'll have a look at it in a video.
Hi thank you for you videos. Need info on installing hull rubber edging for grip thanks
I'll make a video when i'm replacing it next.
Thanks
Love your video's. You're the 16 specialist, have been sailing the 16 in the 80's but changed along the way to the Prindle 16. Now I am in the process of refurbishing a Prindle 18 but it proves hard to get information the way you do it. Would you considder a tutorial for this lady?
I would love to do some Prindle videos but unfortunately I don't have one to use - I don't think that there are any in Greece.
@@JoyriderTV what a pitty, no problem, I get a lot of info from your video's.
Great stuf.
Hello JoyRider, really your videos are awesomes, thanks for that. I'm preparing my boat and I have a quick question: : Do you know the length of the jib and mainsail sheets? Thanks a lot
Eduardo
Yes, here are all of the rope lengths - www.patreon.com/posts/rope-lengths-and-28932516
Thanks a lot !@@JoyriderTV
The snap shackle is an awesome idea… I’ve tried it myself, but unfortunately it won’t fit onto the boom on the North American boats, (the boom block hanger has a very small gap)… I use it for the jib though...Great for de-powering the jib as I come on shore as I have a string attached to the end and I just give that a tug to set the jib free.
If you're not getting block to block maybe you could add a small shackle and then snap shackle onto that.
Really great video. I am hoping you can answer a question for me. I bought an old Hobie 16 that I am trying to setup. How far apart on the main halyard should the lugs be? The first lug lines up fine with the reef point but the second does not and no matter how hard I pull I cannot get these second lug to the V notch. It also seems that the sail will top out before or just as that happens. Any guidance or suggestions are appreciated.
sorry I keep forgetting to measure one. I'll remember and then i'll let you know.
Maybe some vice grips to clamp down and hold the rope taught then you can be hands-free to tie the other side
Good plan!
Hold that thought. There's a much better way. Vice grips bang up your knuckles and break the strands of the rope.
But first of all, at 8:15 you say any 4mm rope can be used to tighten the trampoline. Not true. You cannot use nylon based rope, because it stretches every time it gets wet. I tried that starting with 50 ft of rope. That season I pulled off 150 feet of rope that had stretched out. The next season I switched to a cheap polyester rope (NOT polypropylene) from the hardware store. Or you could use expensive Dacron rope from the boat shop.
When you are tightening the rope, find two tapered pins that will jam into the grommet holes and pinch the rope. Mine were aluminum but wood would be fine. As you tighten the rope, keep moving the pins down to keep the rope from backing off. To tighten I use a pair of pliers between the two pins. Run the rope through the pliers and twist it until the formerly tight pin loosens. Then move that pin down to the last tight hole and jam it in. That's easier to see in a video demo - too bad I don't have one. Murray's Marine used to sell a kit with two belaying pins and one tightener. The pins are so effective you can sit on the tramp and tighten the middle. You do have to be a little careful not to break the side rails from over tightening. I used to use an XXXXXX pattern instead of VVVVVVVV pattern. I've seen X|X|X|X|X|X|X|X patterns to really keep stuff from falling through the middle.
One more thing. Before tightening the tramp, measure the cross diagonal distances from the bridle tang to the opposite rudder pin. Those should be exactly the same distance before tightening the tramp. Use the main sheet harness on the long side diagonal pylons to adjust.
Hi Joe
This is James from Knysna South Africa....I have sailed Hobie 14 for many years and have just aquired an old Hobie 16. All I need to know what is the correct length of the port and starboard shrouds l think my shrouds have stretch a lot.
Thanks for your great series l enjoy all your knowledge and watching you preform.
Kind Regards
James SA
Hi James,
sorry this has taken so long. I was waiting to get a 16 mast out to measure the rigging.
I'll try to do that today.
Joe please can you provide a video regarding sailing solo with a reef point in. Ive done this a few times but would definitely like some tips.
here are the two that i've already made - ruclips.net/video/LUyc-KJ5EjI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/wXf-0mhTNNE/видео.html
Man you really making it difficult to stay with my Laser and not selling it to purchase a Hobie!
I'm very sorry for that!!!
Thanks for all your videos. Got me into the game.
However, I was wondering if you could put on a video on how to pull in and out a hobie 16 from a beachy sand.
What pressure do you put in the tire trolley, etc. ty
Unfortunately I don't have a sandy beach here to demo that.
The only advice i'd have is (if you budget allows) get a big wheel trolley - so much easier on any terrain.
Hi Joe, love watching your videos! I am surprised that you only hand tightened the frame to the castings. My 2008 Hobie 16 is too loose for comfort and I am considering applying epoxy. How tight should I tighten the bolt on the casting?
Only hand tight as you can't compress the castings.
Epoxy is a popular choice if you never want to take your boat apart.
I feel however, if it's an older boat it mights stress the pylons inside the hulls.
Packing the pylons with plastic i think is a better option.
Hi, can paracord be used as halyards/trampoline riggings? Thanks
Yes, you could use paracord for that, I'm to sure how it lines up price wise though.
You'd want at least 4.5 mm for each application.
Thanks. Really do need to replace my tramp.
It makes such a big difference - well worth doing
@@JoyriderTV I need to scrub my hulls and replace the tramp. I am a little Leary of taking her out on the bay. We have a good size lake that dumps in the bay with good winds. I am thinking about selling this boat. I own a J24 as well.
Hi ! Joseph can you show us the way you change the shroud adjuster cover for new ones (new cover) !
I have a Hobie 16 and i have to change the covers, but to go throug the thimble, it’s a bit tight and i don’t want to make a mistake !
Thanks a lot, don’t change anything !
All the best from Brittany
Sébastien
Yes, I can show you what we do to get them on.
I'll make a short video.
Cheers
@@JoyriderTV 👍🏻😬
Due to a shoulder issue, I was wondering if it would be okay to just secure the main halyard to the mast instead of securing the locking lug onto the hook on the mast? I only sail on a lake in winds less than 15 knots. Trying to unhook that lug after a long day of sailing is kind of rough on a guy with a bad shoulder. Thoughts comments appreciated.
If it was lighter wind it would be OK. The downsides would be that it would not hold the sail as high to the top of the mast and it would put more strain on the cleat at the bottom of the mast - which is not designed for load that high
@@JoyriderTV Dang!! I had not even thought about the extra load on the cleat. Glad I asked you before I tried it. I greatly appreciate your channel and the quality production of your videos. I always learn something new. Thank you so much for all of your help.
Regular Greece on yer pylon !!
not half! Failing that a bit of chip fat, lard or some of Pasty's!
Excellent video dude, as you know I have done this many times and yet I still found it compelling viewing !! With the maintenance vids can I request you draw inspiration from the days of the master craftsman that was the booze-son and do some glass fibre repairs using razor blades ??
Great share, thanks. I have an opportunity to pick up a "free" Hobie 16. We all know what that means. 😁
Good luck!
Hey Joe, what is the name of the windsurfer type grips you recommend…’Hydro’ something? Many thanks!
Hydro Turf is the stuff available in the US.
The material we got in europe is Nautix fun pads.
Thanks for doing this mate! Very helpful as I’ve just put my 1985 Hobie 16 on the beach! Still needs a bit of fine tuning. A question for you: I currently have it on a mooring but do you think that’s wise? With it grounding and floating twice a day could it cause damage to the hulls?
I wouldn't leave it on a mooring all of the time, I think it being constantly in the water might increase the chance of hulls going soft. I don't think it touching the bottom is an issue.
Any tips for removing frame from hulls/pylons? 1 of 4 stuck. Pounded w/ rubber hammer, gave 1". Tried scissor jack but hard to get positioned right. ???
Yes - i'll cover this in Friday's Q+A
I think you have mentioned this in other videos but it’s tough to find: how much flex should be able to happen between the hulls? If you lift one bow how stiff should it be to the other hull? And what makes this more rigid if it’s not?
When I lift one of my bows the other stays put and I can see the frame torquing as if the joins need to be tightened. The tramp is old so is that the cause?
What that is probably that the castings or pylons that they sit on have significant wear.
This is inevitable over time.
Tightening the tramp will help.
When you have rig tension on that will help
What you can do is try packing some plastic (like old detergent bottle material) into the gap between the pylon and casting.
Great video thank you! I have rigged a Hobie 14 many times, but I just picked up a Prindle 16 (1982). Any chance you could do a rigging video for Prindle, or are they basically the same? This will be my first experience with anything by Prindle. Can't wait ti get back on the water!
Essentially the same, i don't have any Prindles here but i'm pretty sure it's the same.
Really great video thanks. Quite a fandango, Dart 18 all's forgiven. Do you need to measure the mast rake or is it pretty much set in one position? Looks very raked back. We used to spray some silicone lube along the mast track or bolt rope- goes up a dream.
The mast rake is set with the shrouds and then the rig tension is on the jib. So when we're ready to sail the mast will be more upright.
I just use water on the sail to help it up the mast.
Fantastic video! When I click on the amazon link for the "Sailing gear hand picked - including the snap shackle" I get a white screen (no parts). Can you list the Amazon part number/name for the gear - or at least the snap shackle? I waste too much time attaching the main sheet to the boom at the end of the boat ramp!
Here it is - select the smallest one - www.amazon.com/dp/B07N2L4Q1Y/ref=twister_B07N2S44PN?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
Nice video! I was wondering if the castings at the corners of the trampoline are made of plastics or metal, and what's the purpose of the rivets. Thank you
Mad from cast aluminium. The rivets hold the castings onto the beam
Once you adjusted rake with the jib halyard, what happened to the tension on the forestay??
I sail a 29er and i just bought an old hobie14.. it seems the rig tensions is much less on these cats.
We get pretty loose shrouds when sailing with the tension eased.
Because the jib luff is holding the mast up, the actual forestay is totally loose when the boat is rigged.
Hello, do you thing tightening the jib more than the forestay can cause all the load to be transferred to the jib, potentially leading to issues ? Or is it supposed to be like that ?
I know that in our Hobie 18 manual, they say to make sure that the forestay is always tighter than the jib for that reason.
Thank you for the very informative video, can't wait to get back on the water with the 16 this afternoon
Yes, and yes.
On the 16 jib should take the tension. on the 18 the forestay should take the tension.
Thank you !@@JoyriderTV
Very cool..
🤩
Very helpful. I have had my 16 for many years and never have I found as good of a resource. In regards to the Jib and the tension on the forestay: Once you have put the tension on the Jib and the forestay is hanging loose, do you "take up the slack" by moving to a different hole on the chain plate or do you leave it slack?
You can leave it in the same position and take up the slack using a short piece of shock cord/bungee
@@JoyriderTV I had no idea the jib itself was supposed to take the rig tension! Been doing it wrong for a few years, apparently! Thank you so much for that little bit of information.
Awesome videos, I've been watching a lot of your videos lately and it's motivating me to get my 1987 Hobie 16 water worthy (new tramp, new lines). I've never sailed before and was wondering if you think the 16 is too much boat for a beginner. Also, what are the most common mistakes beginners make when they first go out.
The 16 isn't too much as a beginner as long as you don't try with too much wind.
Here are a few points from an article that i'm writing:
Location:
A lake or reservoir or location with no or little tide/current. Plenty of space and not too many other water users. Easy launching - a good slipway or access point would make things easier.
No big hazards, or even small hazards (the list could be huge) - underwater rocks, commercial boats / ships, angry or potentially threatening creatures, angry or potentially threatening fishermen!
Fewer obstructions to the wind would be better - buildings, trees etc
Other safe places to land would be nice - just in case things don’t go so well.
Safety cover - not always available but, of course, a massive bonus!
Conditions:
Light, steady wind - between 3 and 6 knots (3.5 - 7 mph, force 1 - 2) More wind will make things happen more quickly, less and you might not be able to get moving at all.
The water state wants to be as flat as possible - any waves would make everything more difficult and unnerving.
The wind should be ideally onshore or cross-onshore - so if it will be much easier to get back to your starting point. Offshore winds should definitely be avoided as getting back could be an issue.
@@JoyriderTV Thanks for the info this will for sure help. I have a vacation home that I go to often. The lake next to the home is this one goo.gl/maps/7txWjfdEMzr2kKZL7
I'm just wondering if that's too small to learn on. The good thing about it is there are not many people on the lake but it's not that big.
The other option is this lake goo.gl/maps/9T112XHiDtW99Pxd8 It's a lot bigger but has a lot of traffic on the lake usually. There's a lot of space so I'm sure there are areas I can find with less traffic.
Both of these lakes are really shallow. I was wondering if I did go over with the average depth being around 15 feet in both lakes would you see any issues with the boat turtling and getting stuck in the soft bottom? I'm debating on buying the mast float but they're not cheap.
Why do you guys mount the trampoline bars backwards? Is there a benefit?
Good question - we were getting image in the front corner from where the tramp was pulling across, turning the beam around solved that problem.
Is it the case that these boats shouldnt really be assembled and broken down too often? The reason i ask is, im wondering how realistic it is to tour around in my motorhome with one disassembled on the roof. Obviously. Assembling it woild be a nuisance and noy practical if you're only sailing for a day or two. But if youre staying in one place for a week or two, would it make it more feasible? Or are there other performance cats more suited to that job? Cheers for any info.
If having it on the roof was your only option - maybe a custom rack that would take it at its built width.
A two piece mast would be necessary.
I'll talk about this in this week's q+a
Great video why doesn’t the manufacture limit how far the traveler can go since you’re doing it anyway with your knot. I’ve had the travelers shoot out to the edge when I was sailing and I didn’t like it
I think if they limited them, the car would still hit the end - or what ever was restricting them. The knot helps to prevent traveller car destruction.
Really like that tramp design and color combo; custom for Wildwind or off the shelf? Company link? Thanks and love your tutorials.
That's a custom made for Wildwind. OS3 sails - no website but for prices you can contact thanosos3@gmail.com
I have a 8mm rubber Line for the trampolin. Came with the boat. When destroyed i Will use a rope
How important is the "mast pivot bearing" and what is its function exactly? Is it an essential piece to the rigging?
It prevents metal grinding on metal at the base of the mast - essential to have something in there
@@JoyriderTV Thanks!
Hi Joseph. Do you re tighten the chainplate after tensioning the jib? That line looked very loose.
Usually we pull the slack out using some elastic shock cord.
@@JoyriderTV i see so it does not hold the weight of the mask. That is the job of the jib line?
@@FlowRida-hf6hp yes, exactly.
Got a question about the Hobies. I'm a disabled guy into sailing. Is it possible to increase the width of the boat to increase stability? - without causing the hulls to submerge.
Hi Dave,
I'll address this in tomorrow's live Q+A at 1730 Greek time.
Hey Joe I mounted a winch on my trailer w pulley at top of mast holder to lift mast by myself. The winch bent the mast pole holder
Over. Ugh! The mast is too heavy.
Help
I think that to use this kind of winch system you need to lift the mast to around 45 degrees before you start, otherwise the leverage needed is too great.
Then the winch can be lower down and not risk damaging the mast crutch.
@@JoyriderTV thanks Joe
It's hard when your 62. Lol
I'm fit though
Whay not tighten the nut? I don't have plastic nut only metal and I thightened it alwas well. Is it bad?
Hobie supply plastic nuts with the boats - it's just how it's always been - just to stop the bolt from coming out.
No problem with using a metal nut but careful not to over tighten.
Obrigado!
Thanks!
Thanks for these great videos, Joe...! I recommend this channel to all my Hobie sailing friends. Quick question: What length shrouds do you use on your Hobie 16's? I have an early 80's boat and I can't get my mast rake back as far as you do, and I'm in the lowest hole settings. (Mast still almost vertical) Gonna update some rig over the winter and my go-to parts place offers a couple of different lengths.
I'll measure one and let you know. All of ours come directly from Hobie Cat Europe.
@@JoyriderTV Thanks Joe..I'm on Seneca Lake, in NY...heart of the incredible Finger Lakes Wine Region. Sailing Hobies and other racing boats my whole life (60 yrs old..!) I usually order from "Murrays Sports" in California. They have a stock length (18"-10.25"... in 2 different guage wire) but also ask to specify length.
Mast rake aft is determined by the tension on your jib halyard as well as the length of your forestay, not the length of your shrouds. Normally your forestay will be a little loose.
ingenier genius :)
Thanks!
Is there any reason why H16 have a plastic nut for the bolt that holds the casting to the pylon ? My best guest is to prevent rust for that piece.
I've often wondered that myself.
Maybe to prevent corrosion.
Maybe the plastic doesn't vibrate loose like a SS one would.
Maybe because it's cheaper.
Maybe to stop people damaging their casting by making it too tight - that's probably the most likely.
Great video. I’ve never sailed a Hobie cat before. Just looking into it now. I’m surprised by how much the jib halyard controls the rig tuning. Very interesting.
Yes, it's a major power control - designed before things became more sophisticated.
Can you put the trampoline on 1st then attach all 4 corners?
It is possible but i find that it makes everything more difficult.
How often are you required to tighten it?
I'll go into this in the q+A today
Alodi ayas👍👍👍
👍
Goodjob fine
is it easier to see sharks on a Hobie-16? Or have you ever seen a real mean one (shark?) I realize that's like winning the lottery or getting hit by lighting, but I figured I'd at least ask if you ever saw one. Thanks!!
I never saw one whilst cat sailing - Kitesurfing in south africa however - yes.
@@JoyriderTV wow, thanks very much, that's crazy!!!
Muy bueno
🤩
The special plastic thingy for the mast is not really a special plastic. Its a Teflon plate.
Oh but what a special teflon plate!
@@JoyriderTV 😀
Awesome video!
If you put away any sail soaked in fresh water it will grow mildew/algae/fungi..... putting away a sail soaked in salt water?...nothing will grow on it.... for centuries I haven't rinse my windsurfing equipment with fresh water... EVER...
The only (natural) thing that destroy your equipment is sun light hours and normal wear.
Great tip!
Muito bom 😊😃 good 😃😁
Thanks!!
Doing single trap we've got to 20.0 kn
Nice, email it in and i'll get you on the Speed Stick.
Why is the nut plastic?
I would guess that Hobie us a plastic nut to reduce the risk of chemical reaction between the aluminium and the nut, also to make sure that it's not done up to tight with could crack the casting.
How long does that take you for that process in real time?
I think once you've done it a few times and you're familiar with the process you could have the boat ready to sail in under an hour - it's the trampoline which is the time consuming part.
In 43:16 why forestay looks like loose?
The tension of the rig is held on the jib so the forestay becomes loose.
It is Told to me that it is a good idea to use wet rope fore rigging the trampoline. To get it more thight Is that true?
Yes it is, i do like that !!!!