Good video. Good photography, good explaining of the information presented. You are lucky to have that original Sportster that is in near new condition. That Bike is probably one of the nicest original 1968 XLCHs in the country. Plus, you have the knowledge to care for it. looking forward to more videos.
Great to hear from you Joe, I really do appreciate your support and feedback. It helps make better videos. Yes, I feel like a am a care taker more than an owner. I would be horrified to see someone chop it and destroy this piece of historic motorcycling history. I have to agree with you, it has to be one of the nicest surviving examples out there. I have more to come with both my classic iron heads and hope to do some filming down Route 66 this summer. Thank you so much Joe, you take care of yourself!
Great video! Very detailed explanation and video quality that shows the whole process to fix this common problem in old Sportsters. Now I know what to look for to address the same problem with my iron head. Thank you so much!
Nice video! I bought my first Ironhead almost 40 years ago. I’ve had a bunch of them since then and until the past couple years ago there were always mechanics around who could work on them for me (I had busy jobs and didn’t have the time) I retired a year ago and those guys are gone. I have 2 1959 XLH motors that both need the clutch/primary taken out. Looks like I’m going to have to do it myself!
Yes you are right, these mechanics who know these motors are pretty much gone or retired now. I hope my video will be of some help to you, in fact it’s guys like you is the reason I made this video. I’m sure you can do 100% of the clutch/primary work. It’s very straightforward actually. I do recommend buying an official Harley manual AND parts book, they go hand in hand! You can find them used on eBay or re prints for about $35. I hope you follow along as I go through some of the mechanicals. I have another clutch related video as a follow up from my last video that may help you as well. My best advice pertaining to the primary is to keep that primary chain adjusted properly and make sure everything in there is tightened down and secured. I can’t tell you how many people have ruined there motors by a loose bolt getting caught in between the chain and sprockets. Always adjust that primary chain on the tight spot in the chain about 5/8 up and down play. The manual tells you everything in detail. Thank you for watching, I really appreciate it.
I didn’t take out the bearing to measure the bore depth. In the manual if I recall correctly it says not to press the bearing in too deep that it traps the spacer behind it so it’s won’t float freely. The spacer should have movement. Basically, I pressed in the needle bearing very lightly and carefully until it just barely touched the rear spacer. I wish I can give you a hard depth dimension but even the manual doesn’t as I recall. In my case the bearing wasn’t pressed in far enough so I just gave it a little press .013 deeper and that did the trick.
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Good video. Good photography, good explaining of the information presented. You are lucky to have that original Sportster that is in near new condition. That Bike is probably one of the nicest original 1968 XLCHs in the country. Plus, you have the knowledge to care for it. looking forward to more videos.
Great to hear from you Joe, I really do appreciate your support and feedback. It helps make better videos.
Yes, I feel like a am a care taker more than an owner. I would be horrified to see someone chop it and destroy this piece of historic motorcycling history.
I have to agree with you, it has to be one of the nicest surviving examples out there. I have more to come with both my classic iron heads and hope to do some filming down Route 66 this summer. Thank you so much Joe, you take care of yourself!
Great video! Very detailed explanation and video quality that shows the whole process to fix this common problem in old Sportsters. Now I know what to look for to address the same problem with my iron head. Thank you so much!
Nice video! I bought my first Ironhead almost 40 years ago. I’ve had a bunch of them since then and until the past couple years ago there were always mechanics around who could work on them for me (I had busy jobs and didn’t have the time) I retired a year ago and those guys are gone. I have 2 1959 XLH motors that both need the clutch/primary taken out. Looks like I’m going to have to do it myself!
Yes you are right, these mechanics who know these motors are pretty much gone or retired now. I hope my video will be of some help to you, in fact it’s guys like you is the reason I made this video.
I’m sure you can do 100% of the clutch/primary work. It’s very straightforward actually. I do recommend buying an official Harley manual AND parts book, they go hand in hand! You can find them used on eBay or re prints for about $35. I hope you follow along as I go through some of the mechanicals. I have another clutch related video as a follow up from my last video that may help you as well.
My best advice pertaining to the primary is to keep that primary chain adjusted properly and make sure everything in there is tightened down and secured.
I can’t tell you how many people have ruined there motors by a loose bolt getting caught in between the chain and sprockets. Always adjust that primary chain on the tight spot in the chain about 5/8 up and down play. The manual tells you everything in detail. Thank you for watching, I really appreciate it.
Hello, wht is the measurment of the needle bearing depth that it needs to be pressed to?
I didn’t take out the bearing to measure the bore depth. In the manual if I recall correctly it says not to press the bearing in too deep that it traps the spacer behind it so it’s won’t float freely. The spacer should have movement. Basically, I pressed in the needle bearing very lightly and carefully until it just barely touched the rear spacer. I wish I can give you a hard depth dimension but even the manual doesn’t as I recall. In my case the bearing wasn’t pressed in far enough so I just gave it a little press .013 deeper and that did the trick.
Thanks