Be sure to check the transmission mounts & diff bushings too. Also if the rear diff is completely shot to bits that could be your issue all along. if the gears are worn inside & not messing properly it can cause vibrations although that is very rare. Hope they can get to the bottom of it & fix it for you.
I personally opted for a single piece alloy tailshaft from the driveshaft shop in the US. It's been flawless. Consider that you're simplifying, reducing weight, and strengthening your drivetrain with this option. Ain't nobody got time for originality over functionality.
You seriously need to tap a hole into the rear water passage on any of the single overhead cam engines as they have a steam trap . I was one of the crew who discovered this problem when Ford Engineers brought over an EA Falcon back in around 1989 - 90 to our factory in Airport West. We did a before and after dyno test and found 9kw more power once we freed the coolant flow around the rear cylinder. In fact one of the biggest cylinder head recon businesses in Melbourne drill and tap the hole as part of the reco of those heads. Those engines are notorious for blowing head gaskets if you do not follow my advice. There is a casting bump right next to where the exhaust manifold bolts to the head and it is easily accessible . Drill a 1/8th gas tap onstall a fitting then run the hose to the hose that runs to the top hose fitting over the thermostat with a y fitting. Best to use a brass fitting for longectivity. We have even found by tapping into the casting bump over each cylinder excites more coolant flow where it matters but that is a bit more of a plumbing job than tapping and running one hose.
I won’t be following your advice , I’ve heard all this bs before about the supposed common head gasket failures on au falcons , it’s normally just the usual culprits like hoses , water pump & rad failures . All the au falcons at the taxi shop I kept tabs on for a few years before buying one , had over a million Kay’s & NONE had ever had the head off . Mine has 470000 towing Kay’s , owned for 17 years & guess what no head gasket failure & that includes the local idiot mechanic that put a cheap ass no named brand plastic veined water pump in ( the only thing he supplied , the rest I supplied genuine ford ) , which self destructed after 12 months , I had to drive the car for 3klm to the safety of a mates as there would have been nothing left of it if left parked where it happened , all while coolant spraying up over the screen & temp off the gauge , it was still running fine when it shut it down , new genuine water pump & advised the head gasket would likely blow within weeks , that was 5 years 150000 Kay’s ago . I own 3 dedicated lpg falcon wagons & religiously replace EVERY component of the cooling system EVERY 10 years with genuine ( no longer available for au ) or QUALITY proven brand parts ( Adrad radiators , gmp water pumps ) & have never had any other cooling system or HEAD GASKET failure .
What interesting information. I had a mate with a SOHC that had several breached head gaskets. I used to work for Ansett engineering and miss Tulla & Airport West.
@@timsmith854 Yes and with the twin overhead cam engine they need 3 holes tapped into the cylinder head just under the exhaust manifold . Coolant passages in some engines are quite small so therefore the emphasis is really upon the water pump to provide enough head pressure to push the coolant through the engine.
@@timsmith854 I would be questioning the thoroughness & tolerances of the machining work whenever a reco head / gasket job has been done & then goes again within a short time frame . It is far more likely that the deck ( top of the block ) is warped beyond the specification where a reco head & new gasket will seal effectively . The original cause of the gasket failure is usually something very simple , like hose failure , stuck thermostat , blown water pump , radiator , welch plugs all coming from neglected or poorly maintained cooling systems rather than some “ mysterious steam trap “ & lack of coolant flow caused by a supposed design flaw . I own 2 AU’s long term , have seen many being serviced / repaired at what was the local taxi repair shop & never seen or heard of the problem talked about here , WHY , because they were maintained properly including the highly neglected cooling system on other cars . in fact I have never seen one with a blown head gasket full stop all over a million Kay’s.
Best way to remove the stickers from rad hoses what I’ve learned, Leave them alone until you’ve driven the car a few times and it gets to temp, the repeated hot and cold will loosen and pretty we’ll kill the glue so then you’ll be able to peal the stickers off with ease
Working on your own car does give you a sense of pride and empowerment. You were the one who did the job, fixed it and continue to take care of it. I can't wait till my next BA, I have only done a little work on one, but miss it so much, I want to do the works to it. Currently I drive a little hyundai, which I am just fixing to prepare for roadworthy, which gladly I am licensed to do so know what I need to look for. I am going to be fixing up my mothers ford territory which she hasn't had money or time, but happy to work on something to up my skills. Love these videos. Keep it up.
It also becomes more attached to the owner as they drive it knowing they themselves have contributed to keeping it on the road. There's more satisfaction. I recommend anyone who hasn't taken the plunge from reluctance to give it a go and see for yourself.
I had a 2003 XR8 similar vibration, new tailshaft didn't fix it. I re spaced the centre bearing a few times, changed wheels, replaced rear wheel bearings and I put it up for sale. Prior to selling it I fixed a diff seal and check rear cv's and the outer cv were chewed up from too much negative camber. I went back to 1 deg neg and new shafts and fixed the vibration. Early BA had adjustable rear knuckles the same as fpv's.
Hey mate, just did the timing tensioner seals today on my AU ute. Man! They were stuffed. Been putting this job off for a long time. Just wanted to say thanks for this video! Legend!
If it was me I'd stroll down to a local wreckers and grab a spare original style tailshaft (maybe even go for a used one that way noone has played with the centre bearing as you can screw up the balance, if they are not put back together perfectly)and bolt that in and give it a whirl. Just my thoughts as a fellow Ford lover. And it's just what I would do. Just thought id add this if you have a you pull your own parts yard, they are great places to learn how things go together without risking accidently stuffing something on your car especiallyif your abit unsure, hope that helps. Love your vids
What my work usually does it we order a recod tail shaft from this driveshaft shop and they take your old one and reco that one for someone else might be worth a shot with an entirely different driveshaft plus it'll probably cost same or less then finding out what the issue is on your current one. That's if it even is the driveshaft that's the issue.
Hi Sean, I had the exact same nightmare with the drive shaft of my BFII XR6 a couple years ago. It all started when I replaced the broken central bearing at a shop. Car had mild vibration around 80k/h so I got the shaft balanced, went through another brand new central bearing, new ruber coupling, new uni joint and it's still the same. Brought it to Ford Dealer for them to do in car drive shaft balance, replaced engine mount too, not fix. At the end, Ford Dealer put in a known good 2nd hand drive shaft and it completely fixed it. Cost me close to $2k for that nightmare.
Great job Sean & hope that sorts the leak for good. I’ve got the same issue with my AU and been resorting to large cardboard squares on my carport floor for a while now. Your vid’s given me some courage to have a go too. All the best with your BA!
I had this in happen in my AU ute had a slight vibration as first at any speed. Got progressively worst at any speed . Turned out to be tread separation from the casing. The tyres were not that old at the time . probably 75 percent tread left. Swap the wheels AU to BA take it for a run see what happens....................... I done lots of things to the ute tyer balance , brakes universals Hope this helps
Hello Sean, vibrations belong in the bedroom - not in a drivetrain. So I would be changing all other rear suspension rubbers/mounts and looking carefully at the torque converter & engine mounts. It may seem like a bit of overkill, but the number of times I have changed many components and freshened up the entire driving experience makes it well worth it.
Your vibration issue comes from rear of the zf6 speed. The input in rear has a bearing. If car is driven for prolonged periods with shagged centre bearing or rear diff bushes the all the load travel's to that point. I did the same and spent 4500 on my 2013 territory diesel on brand new tailshaft and full rear cradle rebushed. Turns out that rear input. Just ask your mechanic or mention as a possibility. As for the au. Ya should have been able to find a video or three on this. There is a pin hole your supposed to pop a pin in then remove the tensioner. You done well bro. Cheers Shaun. Mat
Another Great AU video. Speaking of your BA being broken in the being of this video I had the same thing happen to my Jeep towards the end of last year when I had to get the front tail shaft fixed up because it was causing vibrations. If those things come of while driving you can do some very serious damage though. Especially with front drive shafts for all wheel dive and 4WD drive vehicles.
Very informative, where did you buy the O Ring kit from. I need to do mine but Ford saying those parts are obsolete. Want to make sure I have the right size before I start.
If you don't own any measuring tools, disassemble and take your parts to your local bearing shop. Tell them what it's for, oil specification etc, they are your best bet. Better than internet ordering guessometrics.
A friend had the same tail shaft issue The remedy was . every time he drove it.he played a song by the beach boys ..Called Good Vibrations Problem solved....... 🇦🇺😆
No. YOU are the legend. This video was very helpful as I'm in the process of doing the tensioner for the first time on my AU aswell. Don't worry about being nervous. I'm currently sweating bullets!
Our AU2 had the same oil leak from the tensioner, fixed by good mechanic. Then it developed a worse oil leak in the same area. He found oil coming from one of the front bolt holes holding the power steering bracket. There is no logical reason for oil to come from there. He cleaned the hole and put lots of RTV on the bolt thread and it has not leaked since.
There's a logical reason for oil coming out there It's very common That bolt also holds the timing cover tight against the block where the tensioner gets its oil pressure
I had to get the centre bearing done for a warrant of fitness an iv had the exzact same issue. The guy from the shop said that there was alot of play in the output shaft when he was putting the tailshaft back in. An it would be cheaper to get another box in good condition with tailshaft attached.
Haha I literally did this repair last week on my xr6vct ute along with timing / sump gasket rear main and gearbox input seal. Let me know if you need a hand with anything I'm in Ipswich 👍
I've got wagons so I don't have the two piece shaft or the IRS to worry about. Just everything else.😁 I've got timing chain/guides noises going on at the moment in 'White'. 'Blue' is currently behaving itself after new welch plugs. I've NEVER owned a model of Ford that required SO MUCH maintenance as the BA's. 🤔☹
Recently I finally got my dream car, an 05 manual BA XR6T which unfortunately had the same vibration issue (horrible vibration after 80km/h). Took it to 3 different mechanics who all scratched their heads and couldn’t figure it out. Sold it 2 months later.
Pulling the tensioner out, the procedure in workshop manual sounds complex, but is actually quite simple once you realise the way it works. The outer retainer should be removed from the adjuster with the proper tools, else you are going to have trouble. When installed the spring is supposed to be held back and when installed an allen key through the hole turns the stepped tube inside to release the spring. The fact your outer was seized to the adjuster probably means you've kept the tension setting wrong, although you may be lucky and the engine vibration will 'bounce' the tensioner into correct place. I couldn't remember the exact procedure as it was so long ago and I'm getting old and forgetting details, hope you get the idea.
Definitely worth it as you need the transport. That BA driveshaft is becoming an albatross. It seems crazy that a specialist outfit actually made it worse on a very well known rear drive car. Driveshafts are as basic as it gets. They must have made a major blunder for it to be rendered undriveable. I hope they don't mess it up further.
Hey Sean, have been following you for quite a while and love everything you post. Is it correct to say that this (oil leak) is a problem on AU-FG falcons?
Odds on you big black shaft is healthy and it's diff or flexplate or rear extension housing on the trans? I've replaced several drive shafts on ba-fgx including diff bushes and never had an issue after my shaft was reconditioned by someone who knew how to use it. Might be worth further investigation upstream and downstream of your shaft. Cheers
I sold the cleanest xr6 ba with very low km after spending a couple of grand trying to fix it, same vibration I assumed it was a tail shaft. Had the whole tail shaft re done and it was still there. A few people I’ve talked to since then who know about falcons told me it’s a problem with the gear box. Mine was an auto though
Definitely not diff bushings? sure sounds similar symptom wise, LSD doing LSD things when you're engaging the clutch which results in the diff catching and twisting and possibly hitting the subframe, the diff moving around (and therefore the driveshaft is moving around to an extent) at higher speeds would also create a ton of vibration.
Hi Sean im sorry to hear about the Tailshaft rattling.Have you tried buying a BA falcon workshop manual?They can help because there put together by engineers who know the cars inside out.Also thanks for the T shirts👕.There great.
It’s also a good idea to run corrosion inhibitor in your system with demineralised water 💦 alloy head alloy rad with cast iron block = corrosion with only running tap, water and coolant
Have you got nolathane diff cradle bushes ? If so that vibration is because of the incorrect diff bushes, replace with factory rubber, no more problem. I have had this exact same problem with a bf2 ghia
I recently just changed my FG turbo Ute to a pro series tail shaft from GJ’s and has slight vibration at 70km/h but told it is one of the best on the market by my mechanic they use them on their shop cars and it seems strong as, the stock tail shaft blew with 470hp to the wheels
Agee. The BA Falcon/SX-SY Territory has a similar well known leak around the timing chain cover too. Recently bit the bullet and had that leak fixed by Ford on my 2008 Territory. Engine bay has never looked cleaner….but I didn’t get much change out of $900 for the privilege.
@@vincekara9446 Yep, we’ll aware of the premiums paid. However, if you develop a decent relationship with the dealership and make sure they know you know stuff (I’m pretty handy on the DIY mechanic front, just time poor), then you can keep them honest. They actually took me into the workshop recently and showed me how my previous ‘local’ mechanic had installed parts incorrectly.
My crappy au is sitting at the bottom of the driveway because it won't start. Maybe the starter motor .maybe. I have a feeling it's got to the point where it's cheaper to dismantle than fix for what it's worth. It's only got 230000 on it for a 1999 model but so much of it is broken or falling apart . However none of the door handles are broken ... however the central locking is stuffed.
That’s really strange , mines got 470000kays & I’ve owned it for 17 years , it’s maintained properly & NOT ABUSED & apart from a reco tranny , a window regulator , a couple of switches , cooling system ( should be done every 10 years on any car in my opinion ) 1 alternator & yes 1 starter motor , it has been the MOST SOLID RELIABLE car I have owned . I think your car is just suffering from a LACK OF LOVE or a little TLC ? . Now just replace that starter motor as it’s lasted 23 years so far & you should be happy with that ( cheap as & easy job ) & whatever else you have or the gooses working on it have broken & it will probably still be running in 10 years from now . On the other hand if it was a Audi , VW or BMW , I would tell you to send it straight to the wreckers as 1 ) it would be too expensive to fix 2 ) it would already be worn out & or 3 ) using ship loads of oil or 4 ) it would have way more shit broken on it than any AU . 😉
Bummer about the driveshaft. No chance it's the exhaust fouling something? My sister had an XJ6 many years ago that we were convinced had a clunky diff, turned out it was just the aftermarket exhaust would get a side to side sway on sometimes and hit the chassis - some better exhaust hangers fixed the problem. Personally, I wouldn't use tap water, but they add fluoride and chlorine to the water where I live, both of which are good to help keep you healthy, but really bad for aluminum alloys - I always keep a 5 litre bottle of demineralised water in the garage, I think it's something like $5-$10 from Supercheap. If your water isn't treated though, it's probably just fine.
Be careful with engine temps after changing a radiator. They can get an air bubble in them if you don’t run the motor without that overflow cap on the tank.
I've found falcon sixes to be pretty good in this regard - usually after the first drive the coolant tank will be a bit lower as a result. Top it up and she's golden 👌
From what your describing with the ba my father's FG did the same thing it turned out to be the diff.peter warren ford replaced the whole diff with a brand new LSD and never had a problem since.
if I were you put the car up on some axial stands. Grab the tail shaft try and wiggle it it should have no play! Where the tail shaft connects to pinion flange on the diff give that a wiggle it should have no play either also do the same with the half shaft. I recently rebuild my BA Ute Diff, the Utes and Station wagons have a beam diff. The tail shafts after are one piece on the Ute I’m not sure on the station wagon.
The diff was rebuilt for the second time since I bought it 11 years ago the pinion bearing was worn and chipping Harding managed to get 250,000kms out of the bearings, It took days to remove and press on new bearings and its not easy task and it was my first time doing this job it will require a 20 ton press. the rear-end noise could also be the pinion bearings ,the grinding noise was horrible
Alot of the time its from the torque converter if it is the tail shaft test it at 80klms or where it vibs and run the car in neutral Also with a vib that bad you will see a tailshaft move if you run the car on stands in gear and watch the shaft and the tail shafts are balanced on the car by ford which is a whole other issue Another tip is to put some hose clamps on the shaft section and drive the car again and see if it makes it worse or better this was a standard proceedure on jaguar's which i did my apprenticeship on
Hey bud I’ve looked at a few of your videos on the your au falcon , I’m trying to get a diagram of the fuse panel Under the dash and the identification of each fuse! As I’m not sure which fuse controls the rear window Demister .cause I press the button on the dash but no light comes up 🫠 any help would be appreciated cheers Pete
Engine mounts can also cause vibration. Maybe have a look at them. I think you can test it by putting it in gear like your ready to drive it should vibrate and in neutral it should go away slightly if so then it's more likely your engine mounts are loose or caked. Not unless you have already put new ones in.
They normally go a bit soft before they disintegrate , especially on the exhaust side , a slight thunk noise when starting is a dead giveaway , the mounts on my au lasted 22 years & 470000klm , although with the ba turbo & the extra heat they could be cooked way earlier
Argh, perfect opportunity to clean the front of the power steering hub while it was more accessible… it really stands out in a clean engine bay. Any reason why you didn’t spring for a PWR rad for the “needs-to-be-reliable” daily?
@@Andyc351 it varies. But it starts by Googling the part number- in this case, PWR5565- and straight up we can see SparesBox is doing them for $980. Next step is to visit your local Autobarn or SuperCheap Auto that have a price beating policy, generally there’s another 10% further off there. That’ll bring it down to $882. Now if you’re really feeling hardcore you can wait until Black Friday when Coles does 15% off gift cards (yes it happens, believe it or not) then presto, PWR radiator for your AU Falcon under $750.
@@HazeyAuto so if your willing to wait ages you can still pay a small fortune for a totally unnecessary overkill radiator for you standard AU. Sounds brilliant.
Issues with cars can be very soul destroying. Is there a way to somehow mount your camera under the car, go for a drive and maybe capture where the vibration is on the shaft. You may be able to tell if it’s vibrating at the trans end, middle or diff, and it would be and video 👍
Hey Sean, be aware driving with failed Centre bearing/rubber coupling- tail shaft banging around; noises coming from below the console area. Could have damaged your output seal on the gearbox. That's the bit that keeps your automatic transmission fluid inside your manual gearbox. Talk about fukup big..Copy. A few bucks to replace it now or a tilt tray $$$ & brand new gearbox $$$$ later.🤮.. this happened less than 500 kms after i replaced the centre bearing 😒.. there is also a bush/bearing behind that seal also. 👍
I am almost 100% sure the is not fixed because it’s not your tailshaft. My view is it is a 100% your rear diff centre bush. I am not sure if you have rebuilt your diff cradle on your channel? Sounds like diff assembly - replace it with nolathane bushes. Comes with 3 in the kit. Also replace all control arm bushes with the same brand. I think the turbo upgrades have ruined the bushes. I did mine at home took a day but was a diesel fitter. I would have a go. Also for even stronger the is a weld solution as well for the diff. Control blade bushes as well will give a clunk - replace with nolathane. Gear box mount may also be damaged but not likely if they had the car for a day. Also check all bolts are done up tight - they might have not done them all up.
This is why I have and will keep my car stock lol. Modding the car to make more power can cause so many issues its not worth it imo. Not saying your problem is because of the power you're making but wouldn't say it helped lol
I would be taking the diff yoke off and tailshaft back out and taking the hole lot to get rebalanced then that way the yoke I'd balanced with the tailshaft
They probably need replacing, but I would imagine the vibration would rise and fall with RPM... or at least there would be a difference if you drove and then put the clutch in to return the engine to idle. The vibration is speed dependent and isn't affected by engine rpm
Maybe check and see if your muffler is hitting your rear driveshaft knuckle thingy making noise. But your talking about a vibration so probably won't be that.
My 1999 au falcon forte is leaking out the front and it’s completely dead been sitting in a shed for 2 years but the leak started about a month before I stopped driving it I think it might be the head gasket but if anyone else here could tell me anything would be great
You are game pulling the tensioner out, the procedure in workshop manual sounds complex. When I did mine I only had to tighten the outer retainer. The fact your outer was seized to the adjuster probably means you've kept the tension setting. The orange sealant between the inner & outer i think is factory, mine had the same and i've had it since new 👍Regarding the BA, maybe talk a transmission specialist of there are any known issue with output shaft.
@@MotoringBoxTV If LSD is on when it shouldn't, it could cause wind up in the axles and when the windup unloads, sends massive shock to the drive shaft.
Sean just fit the Gj unit!!!! Leave exhaust off and drive it..... this won't take long. Didn't you say something about fixing yourself. Diagnose it yourself. Send it!!!
Thanks for watching! Like, comment or sub to support the channel.
👕Or grab a shirt from www.motoringbox.com/shop
Be sure to check the transmission mounts & diff bushings too. Also if the rear diff is completely shot to bits that could be your issue all along. if the gears are worn inside & not messing properly it can cause vibrations although that is very rare. Hope they can get to the bottom of it & fix it for you.
I personally opted for a single piece alloy tailshaft from the driveshaft shop in the US. It's been flawless. Consider that you're simplifying, reducing weight, and strengthening your drivetrain with this option. Ain't nobody got time for originality over functionality.
You seriously need to tap a hole into the rear water passage on any of the single overhead cam engines as they have a steam trap . I was one of the crew who discovered this problem when Ford Engineers brought over an EA Falcon back in around 1989 - 90 to our factory in Airport West. We did a before and after dyno test and found 9kw more power once we freed the coolant flow around the rear cylinder. In fact one of the biggest cylinder head recon businesses in Melbourne drill and tap the hole as part of the reco of those heads. Those engines are notorious for blowing head gaskets if you do not follow my advice. There is a casting bump right next to where the exhaust manifold bolts to the head and it is easily accessible . Drill a 1/8th gas tap onstall a fitting then run the hose to the hose that runs to the top hose fitting over the thermostat with a y fitting. Best to use a brass fitting for longectivity. We have even found by tapping into the casting bump over each cylinder excites more coolant flow where it matters but that is a bit more of a plumbing job than tapping and running one hose.
I won’t be following your advice , I’ve heard all this bs before about the supposed common head gasket failures on au falcons , it’s normally just the usual culprits like hoses , water pump & rad failures . All the au falcons at the taxi shop I kept tabs on for a few years before buying one , had over a million Kay’s & NONE had ever had the head off . Mine has 470000 towing Kay’s , owned for 17 years & guess what no head gasket failure & that includes the local idiot mechanic that put a cheap ass no named brand plastic veined water pump in ( the only thing he supplied , the rest I supplied genuine ford ) , which self destructed after 12 months , I had to drive the car for 3klm to the safety of a mates as there would have been nothing left of it if left parked where it happened , all while coolant spraying up over the screen & temp off the gauge , it was still running fine when it shut it down , new genuine water pump & advised the head gasket would likely blow within weeks , that was 5 years 150000 Kay’s ago . I own 3 dedicated lpg falcon wagons & religiously replace EVERY component of the cooling system EVERY 10 years with genuine ( no longer available for au ) or QUALITY proven brand parts ( Adrad radiators , gmp water pumps ) & have never had any other cooling system or HEAD GASKET failure .
What interesting information. I had a mate with a SOHC that had several breached head gaskets. I used to work for Ansett engineering and miss Tulla & Airport West.
@@timsmith854 Yes and with the twin overhead cam engine they need 3 holes tapped into the cylinder head just under the exhaust manifold . Coolant passages in some engines are quite small so therefore the emphasis is really upon the water pump to provide enough head pressure to push the coolant through the engine.
@@1darryloflife You certainly know a great deal about the ICE.
@@timsmith854 I would be questioning the thoroughness & tolerances of the machining work whenever a reco head / gasket job has been done & then goes again within a short time frame . It is far more likely that the deck ( top of the block ) is warped beyond the specification where a reco head & new gasket will seal effectively . The original cause of the gasket failure is usually something very simple , like hose failure , stuck thermostat , blown water pump , radiator , welch plugs all coming from neglected or poorly maintained cooling systems rather than some “ mysterious steam trap “ & lack of coolant flow caused by a supposed design flaw . I own 2 AU’s long term , have seen many being serviced / repaired at what was the local taxi repair shop & never seen or heard of the problem talked about here , WHY , because they were maintained properly including the highly neglected cooling system on other cars . in fact I have never seen one with a blown head gasket full stop all over a million Kay’s.
Best way to remove the stickers from rad hoses what I’ve learned,
Leave them alone until you’ve driven the car a few times and it gets to temp, the repeated hot and cold will loosen and pretty we’ll kill the glue so then you’ll be able to peal the stickers off with ease
Working on your own car does give you a sense of pride and empowerment. You were the one who did the job, fixed it and continue to take care of it. I can't wait till my next BA, I have only done a little work on one, but miss it so much, I want to do the works to it. Currently I drive a little hyundai, which I am just fixing to prepare for roadworthy, which gladly I am licensed to do so know what I need to look for. I am going to be fixing up my mothers ford territory which she hasn't had money or time, but happy to work on something to up my skills. Love these videos. Keep it up.
It also becomes more attached to the owner as they drive it knowing they themselves have contributed to keeping it on the road. There's more satisfaction. I recommend anyone who hasn't taken the plunge from reluctance to give it a go and see for yourself.
I had a 2003 XR8 similar vibration, new tailshaft didn't fix it. I re spaced the centre bearing a few times, changed wheels, replaced rear wheel bearings and I put it up for sale. Prior to selling it I fixed a diff seal and check rear cv's and the outer cv were chewed up from too much negative camber. I went back to 1 deg neg and new shafts and fixed the vibration. Early BA had adjustable rear knuckles the same as fpv's.
Hey mate, just did the timing tensioner seals today on my AU ute. Man! They were stuffed. Been putting this job off for a long time. Just wanted to say thanks for this video! Legend!
If it was me I'd stroll down to a local wreckers and grab a spare original style tailshaft (maybe even go for a used one that way noone has played with the centre bearing as you can screw up the balance, if they are not put back together perfectly)and bolt that in and give it a whirl. Just my thoughts as a fellow Ford lover. And it's just what I would do. Just thought id add this if you have a you pull your own parts yard, they are great places to learn how things go together without risking accidently stuffing something on your car especiallyif your abit unsure, hope that helps. Love your vids
The mighty AU will never let you down brother
What my work usually does it we order a recod tail shaft from this driveshaft shop and they take your old one and reco that one for someone else might be worth a shot with an entirely different driveshaft plus it'll probably cost same or less then finding out what the issue is on your current one. That's if it even is the driveshaft that's the issue.
Hi Sean, I had the exact same nightmare with the drive shaft of my BFII XR6 a couple years ago. It all started when I replaced the broken central bearing at a shop. Car had mild vibration around 80k/h so I got the shaft balanced, went through another brand new central bearing, new ruber coupling, new uni joint and it's still the same. Brought it to Ford Dealer for them to do in car drive shaft balance, replaced engine mount too, not fix. At the end, Ford Dealer put in a known good 2nd hand drive shaft and it completely fixed it. Cost me close to $2k for that nightmare.
Great job Sean & hope that sorts the leak for good. I’ve got the same issue with my AU and been resorting to large cardboard squares on my carport floor for a while now. Your vid’s given me some courage to have a go too. All the best with your BA!
The Aussie legends T-shirt arrived yesterday and I couldn’t be happier with it. Cheers mate
it's your axles mate definitely I have the exact same car and colour same problem
Tried a tail shaft off a wrecked one? It may well be your tail shaft is the entire problem?
Are you sure the vibration is in the driveshaft and not the diff or trans?
I had this in happen in my AU ute had a slight vibration as first at any speed. Got progressively worst at any speed . Turned out to be tread separation from the casing. The tyres were not that old at the time . probably 75 percent tread left. Swap the wheels AU to BA take it for a run see what happens....................... I done lots of things to the ute tyer balance , brakes universals Hope this helps
Hello Sean, vibrations belong in the bedroom - not in a drivetrain. So I would be changing all other rear suspension rubbers/mounts and looking carefully at the torque converter & engine mounts. It may seem like a bit of overkill, but the number of times I have changed many components and freshened up the entire driving experience makes it well worth it.
His car doesn't have a torque converter.. It is a manual transmission ..
@@shreda125hilux7 Crap, you are 100% correct. I won't edit it to remind me of my stupid mistake.
Your vibration issue comes from rear of the zf6 speed. The input in rear has a bearing. If car is driven for prolonged periods with shagged centre bearing or rear diff bushes the all the load travel's to that point. I did the same and spent 4500 on my 2013 territory diesel on brand new tailshaft and full rear cradle rebushed. Turns out that rear input. Just ask your mechanic or mention as a possibility. As for the au. Ya should have been able to find a video or three on this. There is a pin hole your supposed to pop a pin in then remove the tensioner. You done well bro. Cheers Shaun. Mat
I miss my AU Falcon. 2000 MK2, as it did me a solid. I paid 800 for it in 2019 and got 2650 for it in 2022
But his XR6T is a manual, so it can't be on the rear of the ZF, though it may be transmission related??
Another Great AU video. Speaking of your BA being broken in the being of this video I had the same thing happen to my Jeep towards the end of last year when I had to get the front tail shaft fixed up because it was causing vibrations. If those things come of while driving you can do some very serious damage though. Especially with front drive shafts for all wheel dive and 4WD drive vehicles.
Very informative, where did you buy the O Ring kit from. I need to do mine but Ford saying those parts are obsolete. Want to make sure I have the right size before I start.
If you don't own any measuring tools, disassemble and take your parts to your local bearing shop. Tell them what it's for, oil specification etc, they are your best bet.
Better than internet ordering guessometrics.
The timing chain tensioner assembly is meant to be re-assembled first THEN re-installed THEN released so it can take up the slack
A friend had the same tail shaft issue
The remedy was . every time he drove it.he played a song by the beach boys ..Called Good Vibrations
Problem solved....... 🇦🇺😆
No. YOU are the legend. This video was very helpful as I'm in the process of doing the tensioner for the first time on my AU aswell. Don't worry about being nervous. I'm currently sweating bullets!
....get on Australian Ford Forums & research it before you go effing about with your tensioner.
Sean was lucky he didn't eff it up 😨
@@lancecooper4646 Have you replaced one before?
@@alexliberty100 yeah it's a common RWC issue
Apparently there's RUclips How To videos on the correct procedure 👍
I did this and couldn't get the bolt back in have I efft up my timing now
Our AU2 had the same oil leak from the tensioner, fixed by good mechanic. Then it developed a worse oil leak in the same area. He found oil coming from one of the front bolt holes holding the power steering bracket. There is no logical reason for oil to come from there. He cleaned the hole and put lots of RTV on the bolt thread and it has not leaked since.
There's a logical reason for oil coming out there
It's very common
That bolt also holds the timing cover tight against the block where the tensioner gets its oil pressure
Solid Prop is the go! Reliable and you wont look back and you have it sitting there.
Yeah
He's got one sitting there.....
You'd reckon he'd at least bolt THAT in & see what happens ????
Have seen diff bushes cause vibration on acceleration could be worth a look at.
I had to get the centre bearing done for a warrant of fitness an iv had the exzact same issue. The guy from the shop said that there was alot of play in the output shaft when he was putting the tailshaft back in. An it would be cheaper to get another box in good condition with tailshaft attached.
There is you tube videos on how to remove and replace that chain tensioner. I hope all is good.
Haha I literally did this repair last week on my xr6vct ute along with timing / sump gasket rear main and gearbox input seal. Let me know if you need a hand with anything I'm in Ipswich 👍
I've got wagons so I don't have the two piece shaft or the IRS to worry about. Just everything else.😁
I've got timing chain/guides noises going on at the moment in 'White'. 'Blue' is currently behaving itself after new welch plugs.
I've NEVER owned a model of Ford that required SO MUCH maintenance as the BA's. 🤔☹
Recently I finally got my dream car, an 05 manual BA XR6T which unfortunately had the same vibration issue (horrible vibration after 80km/h). Took it to 3 different mechanics who all scratched their heads and couldn’t figure it out. Sold it 2 months later.
Regarding your BA tailshaft problems you could try mounting a
Go-Pro underneath to see if the problem is obvious...
I second this !!
I wanna see what it's doing 👍
Pulling the tensioner out, the procedure in workshop manual sounds complex, but is actually quite simple once you realise the way it works. The outer retainer should be removed from the adjuster with the proper tools, else you are going to have trouble. When installed the spring is supposed to be held back and when installed an allen key through the hole turns the stepped tube inside to release the spring. The fact your outer was seized to the adjuster probably means you've kept the tension setting wrong, although you may be lucky and the engine vibration will 'bounce' the tensioner into correct place.
I couldn't remember the exact procedure as it was so long ago and I'm getting old and forgetting details, hope you get the idea.
The outer sleeve was left in the timing cover yes. Think he got away with it
It all seems ok, touch wood. I have since seen a video explaining how it all works... I think I dodged a bullet.
@@MotoringBoxTV Falcon Timing Chain Tensioner ruclips.net/video/h332SlvFvY0/видео.html
I didn't unlock the tensioner and just took both bolts out now it won't go back in, have i fkd my timing? How can I fix this
Hope, you get the ba sorted soon mate. And that’s the first time i think I’ve heard you drop an f bomb in an episode. Took me by surprise 😆
Definitely worth it as you need the transport. That BA driveshaft is becoming an albatross.
It seems crazy that a specialist outfit actually made it worse on a very well known rear drive car. Driveshafts are as basic as it gets. They must have made a major blunder for it to be rendered undriveable.
I hope they don't mess it up further.
I find wet fastening all the timing chain bolts, tensioner with RTV and a new o ring helps.
Just received my shirt and it's bloody awesome
Hey Sean, have been following you for quite a while and love everything you post. Is it correct to say that this (oil leak) is a problem on AU-FG falcons?
Definitely a sohc thing, not sure about Barras.
Odds on you big black shaft is healthy and it's diff or flexplate or rear extension housing on the trans? I've replaced several drive shafts on ba-fgx including diff bushes and never had an issue after my shaft was reconditioned by someone who knew how to use it. Might be worth further investigation upstream and downstream of your shaft. Cheers
I sold the cleanest xr6 ba with very low km after spending a couple of grand trying to fix it, same vibration I assumed it was a tail shaft. Had the whole tail shaft re done and it was still there. A few people I’ve talked to since then who know about falcons told me it’s a problem with the gear box. Mine was an auto though
Maybe you'll remember packing my one!
Love the tee shirt mine arrived last week many thanks
11:58 but... that's the reason I love this channel? 😅
IT'S AN AU FALCON!!
Definitely not diff bushings? sure sounds similar symptom wise, LSD doing LSD things when you're engaging the clutch which results in the diff catching and twisting and possibly hitting the subframe, the diff moving around (and therefore the driveshaft is moving around to an extent) at higher speeds would also create a ton of vibration.
smelling like the diff bushes! been there!
If it's diff bushes they'd hafta be completely flogged out & with a turbo car....yeah...probably are 😲
Hi Sean im sorry to hear about the Tailshaft rattling.Have you tried buying a BA falcon workshop manual?They can help because there put together by engineers who know the cars inside out.Also thanks for the T shirts👕.There great.
Is there a factory manual available to download? I know there is for Holden VS, VT to VZ, VE and VF.
It’s also a good idea to run corrosion inhibitor in your system with demineralised water 💦 alloy head alloy rad with cast iron block = corrosion with only running tap, water and coolant
Have you got nolathane diff cradle bushes ? If so that vibration is because of the incorrect diff bushes, replace with factory rubber, no more problem. I have had this exact same problem with a bf2 ghia
Oh no! Not the “coolant colour wars” again! 😂😂
🤦♂️
I recently just changed my FG turbo Ute to a pro series tail shaft from GJ’s and has slight vibration at 70km/h but told it is one of the best on the market by my mechanic they use them on their shop cars and it seems strong as, the stock tail shaft blew with 470hp to the wheels
Long time viewers (me included) can't deny one thing.. The more driven daily AU will always be more reliable than the xr6t ..
How DARE you
@@damienwilloughby hahaha
@@shreda125hilux7 LMFAO
Awesome video, hope the ba falcon is a easy fix. Missed out of getting a shirt but will get it next time you release it.
Thanks mate. Got the next batch in production now - should be a week or two away. Much larger quantities in all sizes up to 6XL.
Hey Sean check your diff bushes worn bushes will cause vibration and banging
Great work Sean! If you took that to the garage, they would of charged you heaps! Cheers
Agee. The BA Falcon/SX-SY Territory has a similar well known leak around the timing chain cover too. Recently bit the bullet and had that leak fixed by Ford on my 2008 Territory. Engine bay has never looked cleaner….but I didn’t get much change out of $900 for the privilege.
@@nickmcmahon3434 Ford would be the last place for me to repair my falcon. You've paid 20% more than the local mechanics.
@@vincekara9446 Yep, we’ll aware of the premiums paid. However, if you develop a decent relationship with the dealership and make sure they know you know stuff (I’m pretty handy on the DIY mechanic front, just time poor), then you can keep them honest. They actually took me into the workshop recently and showed me how my previous ‘local’ mechanic had installed parts incorrectly.
@@nickmcmahon3434 Completely understandable. We have to follow our gut feelings
My crappy au is sitting at the bottom of the driveway because it won't start. Maybe the starter motor .maybe. I have a feeling it's got to the point where it's cheaper to dismantle than fix for what it's worth. It's only got 230000 on it for a 1999 model but so much of it is broken or falling apart . However none of the door handles are broken ... however the central locking is stuffed.
That’s really strange , mines got 470000kays & I’ve owned it for 17 years , it’s maintained properly & NOT ABUSED & apart from a reco tranny , a window regulator , a couple of switches , cooling system ( should be done every 10 years on any car in my opinion ) 1 alternator & yes 1 starter motor , it has been the MOST SOLID RELIABLE car I have owned . I think your car is just suffering from a LACK OF LOVE or a little TLC ? . Now just replace that starter motor as it’s lasted 23 years so far & you should be happy with that ( cheap as & easy job ) & whatever else you have or the gooses working on it have broken & it will probably still be running in 10 years from now . On the other hand if it was a Audi , VW or BMW , I would tell you to send it straight to the wreckers as 1 ) it would be too expensive to fix 2 ) it would already be worn out & or 3 ) using ship loads of oil or 4 ) it would have way more shit broken on it than any AU . 😉
What model and specifications of the vehicle? If you are in Victoria or southern NSW I may be interested in buying it.
"You can flame me in the comments,
I don't care."
I'm with you dude
Bummer about the driveshaft. No chance it's the exhaust fouling something? My sister had an XJ6 many years ago that we were convinced had a clunky diff, turned out it was just the aftermarket exhaust would get a side to side sway on sometimes and hit the chassis - some better exhaust hangers fixed the problem. Personally, I wouldn't use tap water, but they add fluoride and chlorine to the water where I live, both of which are good to help keep you healthy, but really bad for aluminum alloys - I always keep a 5 litre bottle of demineralised water in the garage, I think it's something like $5-$10 from Supercheap. If your water isn't treated though, it's probably just fine.
Be careful with engine temps after changing a radiator. They can get an air bubble in them if you don’t run the motor without that overflow cap on the tank.
I've found falcon sixes to be pretty good in this regard - usually after the first drive the coolant tank will be a bit lower as a result. Top it up and she's golden 👌
From what your describing with the ba my father's FG did the same thing it turned out to be the diff.peter warren ford replaced the whole diff with a brand new LSD and never had a problem since.
if I were you put the car up on some axial stands. Grab the tail shaft try and wiggle it it should have no play! Where the tail shaft connects to pinion flange on the diff give that a wiggle it should have no play either also do the same with the half shaft. I recently rebuild my BA Ute Diff, the Utes and Station wagons have a beam diff. The tail shafts after are one piece on the Ute I’m not sure on the station wagon.
The diff was rebuilt for the second time since I bought it 11 years ago the pinion bearing was worn and chipping Harding managed to get 250,000kms out of the bearings, It took days to remove and press on new bearings and its not easy task and it was my first time doing this job it will require a 20 ton press. the rear-end noise could also be the pinion bearings ,the grinding noise was horrible
Alot of the time its from the torque converter if it is the tail shaft test it at 80klms or where it vibs and run the car in neutral
Also with a vib that bad you will see a tailshaft move if you run the car on stands in gear and watch the shaft and the tail shafts are balanced on the car by ford which is a whole other issue
Another tip is to put some hose clamps on the shaft section and drive the car again and see if it makes it worse or better this was a standard proceedure on jaguar's which i did my apprenticeship on
Hi, I noticed that the power steering pump has changed again since you replaced it. It no longer appears to be the Chinese one you purchased off eBay.
Yes, I believe I may have mentioned that towards the end of the video.
What did was that white stuff you put on before putting timing tensioner on ? Bout to do mine jst wanted to know what best ?
Hi Sean. Where did you buy the o-ring kit from for timing chain tensioner job?
This should help: ebay.us/ug7PdB
Hey bud I’ve looked at a few of your videos on the your au falcon , I’m trying to get a diagram of the fuse panel Under the dash and the identification of each fuse! As I’m not sure which fuse controls the rear window Demister .cause I press the button on the dash but no light comes up 🫠 any help would be appreciated cheers Pete
Great video as per usual Greta to see it went well
Engine mounts can also cause vibration. Maybe have a look at them. I think you can test it by putting it in gear like your ready to drive it should vibrate and in neutral it should go away slightly if so then it's more likely your engine mounts are loose or caked. Not unless you have already put new ones in.
Yeah i have experience this as well it turn out that the engine mounts broken to the point it started to damage the back of the gear box
They normally go a bit soft before they disintegrate , especially on the exhaust side , a slight thunk noise when starting is a dead giveaway , the mounts on my au lasted 22 years & 470000klm , although with the ba turbo & the extra heat they could be cooked way earlier
@@barbraabsalom4531 470000ks she's had a good run then👌
Argh, perfect opportunity to clean the front of the power steering hub while it was more accessible… it really stands out in a clean engine bay.
Any reason why you didn’t spring for a PWR rad for the “needs-to-be-reliable” daily?
Probably the $1200 cost
@@Andyc351 jeez, remind me to never shop where you price your radiators from…
@@HazeyAuto er ok where do you get cheap PWR radiators from?
@@Andyc351 it varies. But it starts by Googling the part number- in this case, PWR5565- and straight up we can see SparesBox is doing them for $980.
Next step is to visit your local Autobarn or SuperCheap Auto that have a price beating policy, generally there’s another 10% further off there. That’ll bring it down to $882.
Now if you’re really feeling hardcore you can wait until Black Friday when Coles does 15% off gift cards (yes it happens, believe it or not) then presto, PWR radiator for your AU Falcon under $750.
@@HazeyAuto so if your willing to wait ages you can still pay a small fortune for a totally unnecessary overkill radiator for you standard AU. Sounds brilliant.
Sean, the t-shirts arrived in super quick time, and they're every bit as mint as you said.
And I've always been a Holden man.
the shirt is really nice btw
Hi mate, where did you get the o rings for the tensioner From? Do you have a link?
I got a kit from eBay: ebay.us/nwuNhl
Maybe just try the single piece tail shaft just for shits n’ gigs and see what effect it makes?
My BA Vibrates too. Thru steering. NO ONE can work it out, (YET)
Sounds like the diff mounts are stuffed for a start I'll bet the trailing arm bushes are also buggered
My Territory has the same issue the rear diff mount is split Ford just quoted $1300 to replace.
Issues with cars can be very soul destroying. Is there a way to somehow mount your camera under the car, go for a drive and maybe capture where the vibration is on the shaft. You may be able to tell if it’s vibrating at the trans end, middle or diff, and it would be and video 👍
Not a bad idea, I'll take a look on the weekend!
@@MotoringBoxTV M8....do it 👍
Hi sorry that the BA XT6T is playing up again
Hey Sean, be aware driving with failed Centre bearing/rubber coupling- tail shaft banging around; noises coming from below the console area. Could have damaged your output seal on the gearbox. That's the bit that keeps your automatic transmission fluid inside your manual gearbox. Talk about fukup big..Copy. A few bucks to replace it now or a tilt tray $$$ & brand new gearbox $$$$ later.🤮.. this happened less than 500 kms after i replaced the centre bearing 😒.. there is also a bush/bearing behind that seal also. 👍
Great vid,
I guarantee you the issue is with the tailshaft uni joints. They are stuffed. Change the tailshaft. Had exact same issue with my commodore
I am almost 100% sure the is not fixed because it’s not your tailshaft. My view is it is a 100% your rear diff centre bush. I am not sure if you have rebuilt your diff cradle on your channel? Sounds like diff assembly - replace it with nolathane bushes. Comes with 3 in the kit. Also replace all control arm bushes with the same brand. I think the turbo upgrades have ruined the bushes. I did mine at home took a day but was a diesel fitter. I would have a go. Also for even stronger the is a weld solution as well for the diff. Control blade bushes as well will give a clunk - replace with nolathane. Gear box mount may also be damaged but not likely if they had the car for a day. Also check all bolts are done up tight - they might have not done them all up.
This is why I have and will keep my car stock lol. Modding the car to make more power can cause so many issues its not worth it imo. Not saying your problem is because of the power you're making but wouldn't say it helped lol
I would be taking the diff yoke off and tailshaft back out and taking the hole lot to get rebalanced then that way the yoke I'd balanced with the tailshaft
I did this put cant seem to get the tensioner back in
0:06 and 0:13 i love sound of a chicken and yes the rain is getting even worse
Any chance one of the engine mounts are cracked or broken?
They probably need replacing, but I would imagine the vibration would rise and fall with RPM... or at least there would be a difference if you drove and then put the clutch in to return the engine to idle. The vibration is speed dependent and isn't affected by engine rpm
My brother's BA did that and it turned out it had the wrong size centre bearing fitted.
Maybe check and see if your muffler is hitting your rear driveshaft knuckle thingy making noise. But your talking about a vibration so probably won't be that.
Put the one piece shaft in, only takes a couple of minutes and then you will know if its your tailshaft.
A Falcon that isn't leaking oil is broken I'd suggest. 🤣
Or simply out of oil.
I got a VE wagon for sale maybe u could use it on the channel?
My 1999 au falcon forte is leaking out the front and it’s completely dead been sitting in a shed for 2 years but the leak started about a month before I stopped driving it I think it might be the head gasket but if anyone else here could tell me anything would be great
You are game pulling the tensioner out, the procedure in workshop manual sounds complex. When I did mine I only had to tighten the outer retainer. The fact your outer was seized to the adjuster probably means you've kept the tension setting. The orange sealant between the inner & outer i think is factory, mine had the same and i've had it since new 👍Regarding the BA, maybe talk a transmission specialist of there are any known issue with output shaft.
17:30 “the following statement may or may not be truthful” -Sean Enjine, Queensland. AU2Tralia
How many episodes can be made about the same topic? Good one #fordsboxchannel
Check engine mounts, transmission mounts and diff mounts.
I reckon it's the lash in the diff causing the LSD to lock and unlock.
The banging was definitely in the middle of the car, under the floor which is between the centre console and the rear seat 😥
@@MotoringBoxTV If LSD is on when it shouldn't, it could cause wind up in the axles and when the windup unloads, sends massive shock to the drive shaft.
You should buy an old sohc or barra and completely tear it down for experience
Sean just fit the Gj unit!!!! Leave exhaust off and drive it..... this won't take long. Didn't you say something about fixing yourself. Diagnose it yourself. Send it!!!