Ford Explorer Radio / Sync Screen Dead Intermittently U0253
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- This 2012 Ford Explorer came in with the LCD screen black and no radio or backup camera. Then it fixed itself for 3 weeks. Then it came back for the same issue plus water in the passenger floor board.
Part 2: • Ford Explorer APIM and...
I had a Ford F-150 that was having very strange symptoms such as blower fan continued to run after shutting off and removing key. Door chimes going off, headlights coming by themselves when turned off. Ford could not figure it out. Said it could be a problem with the ECM (Electronic Control Module). I decided to remove it myself and possibly replace the circuit board myself. What I found was a few droplets of water in the enclosure which was touching an electrical tab connection. After 6 months or so of this intermittent problem, I figured out the windshield seal was leaking water into the dash. A very very small amount. Hard to detect. When I had the windshield replaced I watch the guy replace it. There was little to no sealant on the upper half of the windshield. He pushed the top out with little to no effort. I bought this truck new and this was like this from the factory? He did a great job sealing in a new windshield. Afterwards the problems never returned. Any water or moisture that might be leaking into the dash can cause all types of weird issues... It does no take much, literally a drop or two. you mentioned water getting in so just thought I would share my experience.
As soon as I heard water in cabin, after seeing all those intermittent no comms codes, I thought something similar. May even be harness related somewhere.
I've heard this exact same story but substitute a HAIR - ONE HAIR- across the inside of an optical connector. Ford really does NOT understand the environment they're building for.
green crusties! come on man
Yeah I've heard of water getting onto the PCM from the windshield as well. I liked the Ford design, putting the PCM in the firewall into the dash to keep water off of it, but what good is it when you can't seal the windshield worth a crap ?
Boy this makes me love my clunky old truck
Ya I'll take simplicity over this any day
No thank you. I like my modern vehicle, complete with features, convenience, and safety - all thanks to modern technology. I would much rather enjoy these things 99.9% of the time and have to learn new skills to troubleshoot the rare issue, rather than suffer a clunky old truck 99.9% of the time and fixing the constant barrage of simple, but prolific failures.
@@watcherofwatchers What you are saying is correct providing the manufacturer builds quality parts.
I worked on Chrysler for many years and they only got worse. Just to crank the engine the path must go through 4 modules.
Their moto I felt was good enough. If it drives on the truck at the factory, it's good enough to sell.
The vehicles are such junk the customers only come for warranty work or a safety bulletin.
His wife knew what she wanted for dinner. You got a keeper sir.😂
Yes, no hesitation when asked for a plan.PIZZA. How she wrangles that boy all day and doesn't go postal is a miracle in itself. You look tired kiddo, tell Wes to bag the shop and take the boy off your hands for a few hours!
Pizza is always a good answer to "dinner?". Homemade is a lot of work, Papa Murphy is our go-to around here, but streets are clear and you can do it online!
Wes get in touch with this man on RUclips he is a ford tech fordtechmakuloco
As a senior/master Ford tech I can verify that the APIM is the cause of most cases of an intermittent black screen. Good work on diagnosing it. I enjoy your work from Ontario, Canada. Yes, the new one will need to be programmed.
Does the update from ford help this at all my car has missed updates and ppl tell me that will stop it from happening right now I'm hard resetting once a week or so it's a 2013 fusion
@@droid1323 it's worth a try, but beware, sometimes updating it will "brick" the apim. Get a quote from a Ford Service center.
I’ve been watching a lot of Vice Grip Garage but Watch Wes Work is STILL #1!!!!!
Both awesome channels
Where I work at, we now call the left and right sides of the car the drinker’s side and captain’s side.
(barking it out) WES!WES!WES!WES!
Mr camarata would say: it’s time to get the chainsaw out!
Camarata's tool list for radio install
1) Two hands supplied by Camarata
2) Chainsaw
Don't forget the sledge hammer :)
Matt's use of a chainsaw to install a radio is going live in infamy
@@4PeTe2 or using the excavator remove parts
I wonder if ole Andrew will take the chainsaw to that new 50k Tesla truck if and when he gets it? LOL
I'm reminded of something I was taught at school many years ago. Electrical systems are often subject to random failure, never random repair.
For whoever also didn't know what SYNC is: Ford Sync (stylized Ford SYNC) is a factory-installed, integrated in-vehicle communications and entertainment system that allows users to make hands-free telephone calls, control music and perform other functions with the use of voice commands.[1][2] The system consists of applications and user interfaces developed by Ford and other third-party developers. The first two generations (Ford Sync and MyFord Touch) run on the Windows Embedded Automotive operating system designed by Microsoft,[3] while the third generation (Sync 3) currently runs on the QNX operating system from BlackBerry Limited.[4]
“lightly” tap on that module while it’s in a failed state, if it comes back on then most likely it has a cold solder joint on the board or loose/intermittent wire in the harness somewhere.
The tap test did not work.
@@WatchWesWork I think you should tap with a sledgehammer ! LOL
@@WatchWesWork Tap harder. Harder. HARDER! Ok - time for a new Kenwood.
Dealing with same issue in 2006 Exploder and yeah, most likely stupid board resistors with crappy solder. A good 'tap' will get mine to come on, then fade out and laugh (heartily) as I guess which station I'm listening to.
It's called percussive maintenance.
@@WatchWesWork RE: used radios... or 'modules' (whatever FoMoCoHoHoHo calls them...): The older ones have a code that you can x-reference, or at least the boneyards can. From what I gather - it then needs to be given the 'Dealership Magic Touch' which involves touching the customer's wallet to turn on the functionality. I do not know if a non-oem scan tool can do that. Heck - I don't know a lot of things, most of which I don't know what they are.
It's official, the automotive industry has successfully put legs on a snake....again.
they want us to buy a new car every few years 2012 is a old car now
@@richardbrobeck2384 A poor incentive.
"Legs on a snake" - I LIKE THAT
@@richardbrobeck2384 the "industry" has wanted you to buy new every 2-3 years since after WWII...Studebaker even had Certified Used program in 1950---just saw the ad last night.
I worked for a company that always modified any gear that they purchased. One the engineers told me that if the company wanted a dog they would buy a cat and modify it.
LOL!
I remember the first car I drive when I was a young feller, a 1951 Chevy 6 banger with three in the tree, dimmer switch was in the floor, am radio that when you turned it on it had to warm up before you heard any noise and in the winter when you finally got it going (6 volt) it had a light on the dash that said COLD. you could beat that car with a hickory cane and never even scratch the paint. Now days you have to have about 6 college degrees to even open the door on one.
As soon as you pointed out that aftermarket wiring I heard Eric O. Saying " Someone has been in here doing the hokey pokey ."
Oh my god yes, that’s exactly what he’d say. Love that guy and Wes.
It does need an APIM, and if the backup camera isn't working, it needs one of those too. Both need programming. If you can find a used one (APIM) with the identical features it should plug and play. (I'm a svc. manager at a Ford dealership)
OK thanks for the info!
How many of us old guys out there were happy with our Pioneer Supertuners and Jensen 6x9 coaxial speakers? Maybe even a graphic equalizer and power booster. Gimme a Motorcraft 2 bbl and Duraspark ignition please.
You just described the system I had in my 1983 Mustang GT! The radio had two outputs which ran to two equallizer/ boosters that had four speaker outputs each. Plus the stereo also had an amp output which drove an amp with two speaker outputs for a total of 10 Jensen Speakers. 😁😁
here in germany we send those module to polland for component level repair, it takes a a week but there are people who know their stuff...
Polland for reliable repair? Thanks for the job security.
For those in America, especially Texas please keep safe in the weather you’re getting.
Thank you, it was 0 degrees a couple of days ago, and hit 65 this afternoon. So, not only supercars can go from 0 to sixty really quickly.
After watching you play with data buses and electronic modules, I'm glad I drive an old british car. All I have to worry about is a set of points and a SU carburetter.
My TR 4 has Zeniths, thank you...lol.
I would get rid of the points with a cheapo electronic unit. They are brilliant.
And whether or not there's enough butter for the crumpets! How supremely civilized. :-D
And Lucus electricals
@@jameswalker629 Ouch, perhaps workers of The God of Darkness employees were Recruited by FoMoCo?? Lol.
I nearly fell out of my seat when you said the price for a rebuilt module...wow !!!
NEW STUFF that why a lot of 5 to 20 year old cars and trucks are getting traded cause all that stuff is going out $$$$ !!!
Hey Wes, love your videos man. This one is dear to my heart, lol. I'm a Ford tech and we see these all the time. IT's an APIM for sure, and it has to be programmed by a dealer. We replace a lot of these, and the newer ones tend to be worse. If you need any help with this in the future, let me know!
OK thanks!
Locally we have tracked it to faulty USB phone charge cords shorting and overloading the APIM 5V bus because those morons didn't put protection on the system.
@@PatrickLeeUS unreal
Both my wife and I deal with this issue I believe. Stinks that potentially will cost a small fortune to fix. When I asked the dealership they wanted to charge me $250 JUST to diagnose the issue since it may be “my fault” and not warranty related, if I spilled liquid on the dash/console. Sucks cuz both vehicles were used “certified” so there could be “liquid damage” from previous owner... Any recommendations for that?
@@trevorferris8284 Yeah.... Never buy a "certified" pre-owned (used) car ever again. It is what they call a "term of art" and has absolutely ZERO meaning.
Normally the word "certified" means a neutral 3rd party "certifies" that something does something. WHO exactly is issuing this "certification?" yeah, the dealer.. It means nothing but adds thousands to the price.
I'd say you had a huge step ahead in educating yourself on that issue...good on you . ..stay safe ...
As good as you are as a technician sometimes there are jobs that just can’t be handled outside of the stealership and that’s what they count on. Your victories definitely outweigh your beat down jobs. Keep up the great work.
I agree well said @Arthur Biringer
FCIM = Front Control “Intermittent“ Module.
It like the company that makes the fuse boxes say “ok we will make the boxes under one condition, we get to pick where it goes in the vehicle” 🤣
Yea, they get to pick the location so the average person can't find it and try to save themselves some money on service. Service departments are WAY more profitable for dealerships than selling cars.
So I don't offend any one (because we know 2021 people are very sensitive aka cry babies) I NEVER say "GM" is stupid or "FORD" is stupid, I just say "ALL CARS ARE STUPID" and then no one gets mad at me. It all about the terminology my friend 😁
Good policy!
You did say that there was aftermarket parts. Hmmmm
Or, as Wes Borg of Three Dead Trolls in a Baggie sang: "...every OS sucks..." - and it's true.
We can all agree that Chrysler is stupid - amirite?
He did say "all" are stupid. It's called design,then try to find somewhere to put stuff in a limited amount of space and still make it "look" appealing.
Nice job on the diagnosis on that APIM. I worked for Ford during the first few years of Sync. It was a nightmare. About 60% of the time you could yank the fuse for 5 min, reinstall and the system would work.
We replace a lot of APIMs where I work. We have one in the shop now with a botched remote start kit that fried the Gateway Module
Wes, you did find that aftermarket box. ive seen stuff like this before. someone has messed with the wiring so you should check all the wires around that thing and rip it out...
I noticed the blinking blue light behind the rear view mirror. That usually shows a remote start in valet mode. Have you tried cycling the remote device to see if that changes any of your voltages. I also saw that all the voltages on the scans were below 12v. Could that be a starting/charging/remote start issue under powering the protocol module?
Hey T Jones, I have a 2012 Ford Explorer and needing a new apim module. I was wondering if I could fit any year apim module on as a replacement. Found some used ones off scrap cars. Also can I grab one from an edge? Would that work. Let me know if you have any advise. Trying to save a few dollars as a college student. Any help would be awesome!
@@kyleboos8191 They are VIN specific
Back to the Pit Of Despair or shall I say Pit Of Disrepair I see.
Got to love the parts that are made from unatainum
un-obtain-ium lol
I've repaired a few of these 'communication issues' on Ford vehicles. The clue here are the two ends of communication loss the instrument panel and the APIM. All of the faults I have fixed are because of micro fractures where the receiving plug is soldered to the board - you can spot it underneath a microscope. Get some flux and resolder all joints on the board and it will usually fix the issue immediately. Microfractures tend to happen as modern day solder is lead free and is less tolerant to movement.
issue i had was the capacitors were swelled up. replaced them and it works.
Good video! Wife has a 2013 ford explorer with nav. We now have little over 100k on it. There have been a few time that the screen froze, blacked out or something. Shutting it down, or maybe the battery disconnect seemed to reset. A few times in 7 years...I'm not complaining. Great car.
Carry out a pin drag on the connectors to the module and slightly tighten any loose ones. Spray the connectors with a auto electrical contact spray. Should solve your problem
Yeah, sounds like some kind of intermittent connection (or connector) issue.
I don't see this being a connector issue.
It’s the radio! I have the same one in my f150. it went out, you could smack it a few times on the case and it would start working. eventually I just found one on the ole internet plugged her in and it works like a dream. When you pulled the face cover off and I saw that same radio module I knew. Good new is it’s just the internal module with CD player not the whole control head and you can just replace it. They are interchangeable.
I thought I would share there is a RUclips channel who is a technician for Fords he goes by the name , FordTechMakuloco. He might have a video that will help
Yeah get a hold of him.
Brian is Legendary 💪
Pumphrey? Like the lady from All Creatures Great and Small? :-D
The system is equipped with either one or the other when it comes to the Front Controls Interface Module & the Front Controls / Display Interface Module (FCIM or FC/DIM).
SYNC Gen 1 entertainment systems have the FC/DIM & SYNC Gen 2 has the FCIM. So its normal for no communication to be on one of those modules
I am a Master Mechanic who has specialized in Engine, Transmission, Electrical, water intrusion & leaks, and Drivability issues. I have about 15yrs at GM Dealers working on GM & all other brands; including exotics - Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, etc.
*I have a couple videos on my channel of some bigger jobs, mods, fabrication, & exotics I've done as well if anyone is interested in checking them out.* _The ones that i happened to take pictures of at least..._
I dont personally like Fords or Chrysler products, because of their design. Every mechanic has their brand/s they dread to work on... But I'm actually working on a 2013 Escape this very moment with a dead Radio display (non touch 4" screen) & thought I would put that info out there so nobody assumes they have a bad module - when in reality the module isn't even equipped on the vehicle
You successfully exercised those radio demons for 3 weeks and it got you some repeat business, I call that a win. ;)
Repeat business is a win. Repeat business for the same problem is very much not a win :(
@@somebodyelse6673 True but Wes said the customer was on his way to drop it off for something different when the radio screen went out again.
Tools to access a fuse board, oh dear!.
Feel your pain, great work Wes, you must have been beatified in a previous life.
Thanks for sharing.
"Does it have a DLC?" "Yes." "Well, there's your problem lady!!!"
So on the exhaust flex part I found it on Rockauto for $65. It’s AP Emissions 28874. The picture shows what looks like the part you need but it’s not a picture of the actual part. If you look it’s under Exhaust&Emission pipe/resonator section. Love your channel hope this helps.
I have always hated things that ‘fix’ themselves, cause now i have to wait for it to fail again
They keep you not knowing what the root of the problem is. Not a good feeling.
Intermittents are the WORST
Nice diagnostic work. You are what we call in New England "Wicked Smot".
LOL!
It seems what we have here is engineered obsolescence.
Truer words were never said 😂
The required lifetime usage for OEM automotive electronics is 10years...and 15 for electrics / hybrid.
@@danielsmd4 haha good luck with that
Or perhaps obsolete engineering.
Especially not making a replacement exhaust flex pipe. They don't want anyone to fix their vehicles anymore - they want you to keep buying new ones.
I spent my 8 years at Ford working on generation 1 & 2 Stynk systems. You would be surprised (or not) at the number of issues that could be repaired by unplugging and plugging back in the APIM and FCDIM. Pulling fuses wouldn’t do it. They had several years of severe “pin fretting” issues where alleged micro-corrosion would cause high resistance on module connector pins. By unplugging and plugging back in, it would “clean” them and all would be happy again for a year or two. Same issue affected airbag systems.
How is that done? I have a 2011 with dead radio and screen.
What a nightmare. Glad I just have to sip coffee and watch. I think they should of stopped upgrading cars in the 90s maybe early 2000s. Maybe I'm just getting older and grumpier. Keep up the good work! Audio on that connected mic was nice and clear.
Do you ever find yourself talking to the screen ? LOL
Exhaust pipe, Front Pipe;
Rockauto/ 2012 Ford Explorer 2.0/ Exhaust & Emissions/ Pipe Resonator/ AP Emissions 28874
According to the AP Emissions Technology website catalog they have 67 in stock.
Hammer in an 8 track.
The procedure to do so is 1) measure it with a micrometer, 2) mark it with a crayon, 3) cut it with an axe, 4) hammer to fit, and 5) paint to match.
Use the Andrew camarata installation method. Just need a chainsaw to modify the dash
Putting a hammer in Wes' hand at this stage is far too dangerous.
@@MustObeyTheRules
What a guy.
@@northernyeti8280 Nice to see some REAL pros out here. YOU GO!
...from antique bulldozer to 21st century automotive computer technology....Wes, you have amassed a wealth of skills...very impressive...love your video's...keep it up...thanks...
Dear Ford Explorer owner, your vehicle got into a fight with an antique bulldozer. Despite extended efforts to revive, it was pronounced dead at the scene. The remains have been taken to Rusty's scrap yard, you may make funeral arrangements at your convenience. I am sorry for your loss.
When my daughter first started driving I bought her a used Ford Taurus. I couldn't get rid of it fast enough. It was the biggest piece of shit ever, just behind my Dodge Caravan.
The wet floor is definitely the sunroof drain. My son's has clogged numerous times, after many trips to the dealer under warranty now he unclogs it himself like you did. Also it looks like it has an aftermarket remote start system on it??? Maybe that's an issue??? Keep up the good work Wes!!! Always nice to see Mrs. Wes and Kiddo too!!!!
Oh you think GM is bad? Ford; hold my beer!
Three strikes. Ford. Water. Aftermarket electronics. Run...run away. Lol. Thanks Wes.
I never knew so much about my car's electrical system! Your diagnostics are spot-on for the tools and training you have. You're careful, thorough, and verify results. That's literally ALL you can do. These modern mobile entertainment systems are insanely complicated, it's a damn miracle they work at all. :-D You're a gutsy guy to tear one down and pick through its innards!
The exhaust part is called a "exhaust bellow"! There are 2 types (A braided stainless steel inner covered with a bellow an a pipe in pipe, ( slip fit covered with a bellow) and a flex style is a bellow with with a braided outer stainless cover (typically inverted versions of each other )and they are interchangeable.
"i was in the video last weekend..."
"which one? the dishwasher" :D
Oh man I have similar discussion with my lady too. Have not do together this or that and then snap, was just a bit while ago! :)
At this point in the video, about 2:00 minutes is the best example for taking a used vehicle to your favorite mechanic to have them do a quick once over, that way you'll know if you are getting lemon pie or just a lemon. I'm glad my son did, he was looking at a nice looking vehicle, but after they put it on the hoist and did some quick checking they gave him an estimate of what the repairs would be in the near future. Of coarse the used car lot denied knowing there was anything wrong even though if you looked you could see bad tire wear on just part of the tire. Whatever their fee is to do a look see, it is well worth it to you in the long run. What was that commercial, you can pay me now OR pay me later.
My mom had a similar issue in her similar vintage SYNC edge when she bought it. Ford released a new software / firmware for the radio that you could download on WWW and install via USB stick. That took care of those problems for her. You might want to see what firmware or software (cant remember what FORD calls it) and see if there is an update. It is downloadable by owners at ford owners site.
Yeah, being a software guy myself I wonder if it's bricking itself due to a SW problem. It'd be interesting to see if "rebooting" the module would get it back. (might have to disconnect the battery or something if it gets constant power)
@@joshonthetube Wait, if you're a software guy, shouldn't you be blaming the hardware! LOL. (sorry, I'm a hardware guy)
I can't update it if it's dead.
@@chadbrown1474 Nah, I write particularly crappy software. :)
@@WatchWesWorkmaybe when it comes back for a turbo the screen will choose to work and you can update it then.
Good to see the Mrs still around after the dishwashergate 2021.
I find these type of videos very interesting to watch!
2011 Ford Edge with Sync here. APIM was a high failure item. Ford issued an extended warranty on it and ours was replaced under warranty when it eventually failed. Pulling and replacing fuse 29 forces the Sync system to reboot - did that many a time with the original APIM to fix a blank screen. Oh, and our backup camera failed and required replacement too. Sounds like Ford used the same crappy parts for the 2012 models.
im only half way threw this video and im already remembering why i like my old "junk"......lol
My local NAPA have about 10 different length flex pipes on the shelf, just buy the one that matches or a smidgen longer and weld it in.
I wonder if its getting wet somewhere being its intermittent and drying off in your shop
I was thinking that. For some reason manufacturers like to stick the modules in the floor area.
Doesn't need to be the module, a connector in the footwell (or whereever the water runs along) getting wet might be enough to short out inputs to any module. Already seen that happening.
Backup camera cable, GPS receiver and their power supply usually run through the footwell, or USB connection in the center console (if applicable).
I don't think so. Everything tests good at the module end.
Good point!
It was gone for what 3 weeks and only went out on the day it was coming back to Wes. I pretty sure that's not it. I think it would have went out before then.
We have a couple of new Ford vans that have back up cameras that go in and out. Now they are out.
The Ford dealership said it’s a software problem. The vans are in LINE with others to get software updates.
At 12:18 in the video, that looked like an EKG tracing to me....and it definitely was in ventricular fibrillation (ie fixin' to die)!
Trying to work a deal with my son. He has an '80 F150xlt short wheelbase w/a 302. Had about 80k miles on it all original. I've got him down to 1500$.
Two things I wish, I wish I was closer to you, and I wish I could afford to pay you what you would charge to do all the little mundane things associated with all the little things.
The only thing that has been changed since the truck rolled off the line? The exhaust. The welds look like a flock of buzzards took a dump there. Probably a Midas shop job.
Thanks Wes
What we've got here is failure to communicate.
Cool Hand Luke.
Then wap it with a black jack
Wes, I had intermittent problems with my Ford F250 SD, the backup camera would go out, the speedometer cluster would stop working. Took it in twice to Ford, they couldn't find any problems. Went to another dealer when the problem was still active. Found to be a pin fitment problem near the foot parking brake, no bus communications to most modules. I believe that when the parking brake slams home when being released that it shakes the connectors nearby, because the problems started to show up again, so after I stopped using the parking brake I never had a problem. When I did use the parking brake, I put my foot on the parking brake pedal to slowly let the pedal up (preventing the slam of the pedal when released). May not be his problem, but it was mine.
ive seen these symptoms in newer cars caused by a bad battery... multiple times. may start the car and act "normal" but test bad.
My 2005 Mustang GT had the airbag light staying on. The battery had died in the car on the previous owner, and the windows had stopped dropping when the doors were opened. Once I reset both of the power windows, the dang airbag light started turning off after the engine was started!
I almost prefer carburetors, distributors, and analog radios...
Terrible how technology just eats up time like this. I commend your commitment to try and resolve the problem for the owner. Even a Ford main dealer would struggle with this type of fault. At the end of the day it's meant to be a car that you drive. Stupid unnecessary bling tech' that we can actually live without in a car but its now de-facto. lots of cars going to the scrap heap because of this
Well there's your problem right there. It's clearly the gcm talking shit with the apu because frp was pissed off about the hty being lazy. Go get em Wes!!!
It's always a BFD when the AM/FM and the CD-ROM are AFU and SNAFU, that's a PITA!!
Thank you again Wess. You are a Man of extreme patience. I hope you have a punching bag in a sound proof room to release your pent up frustration. It amazes me that car manufacturers make computer systems so complicated. I knew very little about personal computers. Our first pc was a Dell. We used it till the progression of operating systems were no longer compatible. I had learned enough at that point that you could build a better computer for yourself for alot less money than the proprietary systems offered by Dell and all the other companies especially Apple. I learned everything I needed by watching videos from Newegg and Tom's hard ware and some other sites. I studied for about 6 months. Then I began buying the components as they went on sale. Case mother board and so on. Once you know what type of pc you want it's pretty much all plug and play. And as long as any new upgrades you want to make match the type of system you have any compatible part from any manufacturer will just plug in and talk to your system and become friends. Why do these auto makers feel the need to prioritize everything on these cars and over complicate them to the point that even dealership service technicians can not trouble shoot them. My computer has a military grade mother board and the capacity for upgrades that reach far into the future. And way less expensive than the crap they put in these cars. Just look at the electronic fuel injection systems offered by holley and edelbrock. So simple and they self learn. Sorry to go so long. Have a wonderful day.
acting like a 'flood car' need that tecnology warrantee.
That missing splash shield would go a long way toward corroborating that...
You need to check your security cameras, Morgan came in and used her repair skills on the radio as a repayment for the brake job on the Bronco.
327psi.... Ford still trying to fix those firestones blowing out due to low pressure....
A nice honest video of one that wants to get away. It will be back, and you will not let it just go. Good luck with the exhaust. That is a more vital fix than the squawk box and its friends.
You may be able to use a used APIM. You need FORSCAN (Aftermarket Diagnostic Software basically). If you download the Explorer's AS-BUILT data from the Motorcraft Website (which should be free), you can use FORSCAN to reprogram the APIM to the Explorer. The Mustang and F-150 guys do this all the time to convert from the stock radio to SYNC-3.
Forscan.... so this is an orthodox procedure? (innocent face)
Well i got my weekly dose of chuckles and for that i thank thee O' Wes, it was a pleasure to watch you work🛠, keep 'm coming!.
Go wes!!!!
Wes, I have so enjoyed watching your videos. I like fixing things and restoring things myself, but I do declare, you have the patience to hang in there and get it figured. I like your honesty and good work. Obviously you are getting compensated well to have a shop like you do, but watching you on video and knowing you are not recording every moment ..... either you are taking a lick’n or your customers are very good to pay you! Thank you for the details. I wish you well!
Oh, the luddites come out in full force anytime Wes has to troubleshoot something electronic.
Exhaust repair should be current priority #1 ! Get the flex pipe and weld it! Job done! Thanks
Damn new fangle contraptions!! Stick with heavy machinery and older cars!!!
HEAR HEAR! GIT BACK TA YER ROOTS BOAH
OH NO, an EXPLODER‼️ Wes, it looks like you have acquired a steady, regular customer 😖 (Fix Or Repair Daily) In addition to all you are going through with it, it also has Ford/Microsoft/ Sync😖 (or should I say - Stink) We should be seeing PLENTY of content from this one. Hoping this comment finds you and your family healthy and safe! (Love seeing the family)
Well Wes, I can tell you the problem is circled on the grill.
Strangest "Bowtie" I ever saw. Must have been part of that government bailout they got.
Eric , Exactly!
IF the APIM module is bad, why did it work last time? there may be a bad / intermittent connection some where under the steering column or aftermarket anti theft device. just a thought
Yay, a new Wes video!! :)
Circuit Board Medics in GA may be able to rework the module. It isnt listed, but it says to call them to ask. I used them for my oven electronic controller which was unobtainium as a spare part. They did a great job. They have the testing support thats often needed for this type work.
Found
Our
Radio
Dead
Slave to the government motors bowtie boy
Found On Road Dead
First on race day
@@davedemo8229 fucked on raw deal
Fix or repair daily ...your choise
Thanks for showing the oscilloscope on the CAN network. It proves the network is alive, though still suspect if you can't drive it while observing conditions. Agree don't like half fixed or worse magical fixes. Pizza doesn't fix problems it sure makes them easier to digest.
From what I understand, all the apim are universal for all ford models. They are programmed to their models features. There is a program that lets you change settings within the apim. I think maybe getting a junkyard version and reprogram it for the cars features. I believe it is called forscan. Terrible name I think.
I love your videos . Been teaching myself automotive diagnostics for about 3 years now and between you and SMA, Geotec channel i learn alot . Please keep em coming. Hopefully I can start helping out with some funds soon. Beings im starting a new job Monday. ⏳🇺🇸👍🏻🗜🛠🧰🔧🔩 We had a 03 and it was a tank in the snow but it got total. It was AWD with high & low lock
I've got no idea what possess car designer's to make things this complicated.
It's called "evil". And, yeah, they are possessed by it.
Any "invalid Data Received" DTC or Code stored in a module is ONLY a reactionary DTC that is set - due to another module setting a DTC.
Just cuz there is an u0401 - u0422 doesn't mean the problem is in that module, or even in that system. Its caused by the failure of another system or module (I.E. - the ECM sets a p1101 or p030x - EBCM or ABS modules will set am invalid data DTC due to the close working relationship the EBCM and ECM has). Just trying to leave some helpful advice...
Really disappointed there was no chainsaw involved to get the radio out.
Sunroof/ windshield leaking and dripping on the module may be the cause. I have repaired many seat,dash/speedo units, digital hvac dash controllers and the majority are failed solder joints. Usually right where the harness interfaces with the input boards. Hence the sporadic failures. If you can disassemble the housings it is pretty easy to see the failed joints. The proper way to repair is to remove all the old solder, clean the pins and board and redo with new solder and flux. Not a job for the inexperienced but it is possible if you have the right type of soldering irons. Find a person who tinkers with old tv’s and radios and they will be able to fix them😉
I was deeply into thinking this thing thru for you Wes and I think my brain was within seconds of offering up the solution for you but then I heard pizza is for supper and my analytical process went to deciding if I want black olives on half of it this time. Sorry. 😬
Happens to us all!
This might be one of those situations that "Aftermarket" may be the way to go. Bonus points if you can find a radio unit with knobs!!!
The audio sounded good.
APIM stands for Accessory Protocol Interface Module. It is responsible for many things like reading HVAC and steering wheel buttons as well as acting as CAN bus gateway for the SYNC CPU (CCPU) that controls the touch screen. There are two microcontrollers/CPUs in the APIM, one for the CAN bus / LIN bus and the other that controls the screen. It is a complex and antiquated system that should have been re-engineered 10-15 years ago. Who knows how long Ford will drag it into the future?
Dang ! You almost need to be a engineer to work on these new fangled contraptions !
I would check where the harness comes out of the body and goes into the rear door. Look for chaffed insulation and intermittently shorting wires. It can drag the data bus down intermittently. Just a hunch. Good luck.