FYI, I have moved over my entire Barndominium build series over to its own channel: www.youtube.com/@thehomesteadthread here is a link to the next episode: ruclips.net/video/KOU8GSEP5ZA/видео.html
That system is so sweet. My favorite part is when we had the shop door open for a while moving the pizza truck around, and as soon as we shut the door it felt immediately warm again.
What a find! I love your building! With empty conduit use a shop vac at one end and an appropriate plastic bag on the other with builders string tied to it. Suck the bag through, pulling the string. If needed tie string to a heavier rope for pulling wire.
Someone else mentioned the same thing, but I had never heard of that before. Must be a common trick that passed me by. I will try that in the future, Thanks
@@AustinCoulson, that wadded piece of grocery sack makes a perfect shuttle. It's a very satisfying thing to witness. I did it underground in a run of 110ft when bringing cable from my house to a new shop build. The speed at which it reappeared at the business end took me by surprise and I had to extricate the plastic from the bowels of my vacuum filter bag.
Finally found your videos that shows almost my exact project. Really am thank full!! We are just 2800 sq feet 40x70x12 living area 24x40.Starting fall 2023..... Thank you so much for sharing!
Here in Louisiana we don't do radiant floor heating. I'm always fascinated by the idea though, and this really helped me understand the install process. Thanks for the great content.
Hope you and your family had a good Thanksgiving. I like that you tell us why you are doing what your doing and easy to follow. The blue tape pattern is a good idea.
I'm running a similar setup with my 50x30 pole barn in central Minnesota and couldn't be happier with it. I run two zones, 62 degrees in my workshop and 50 degrees in the rest of the barn. I get half price electric rates for heating by allowing my COOP to interrupt service during high load periods. My pole barn has always stayed warm during the interruption because my slab is a giant heat sync. Last year my highest monthly heating bill was $106 for Feb. You're going to love your system.
@@TheToolmanTim looks like you have a pretty cool channel. Thanks for sharing about your system here. I didn't spot a video on your system; could you point us to your video/playlist on your radiant heat setup? If you don't have one yet, it would be a cool overview video to see and would appreciate a heads up if you make it in the future.
@@l0gic23 Thanks. I didn't create a video detailing the boiler, but I did show it with some brief overview info in a series of videos covering how I finished out a workshop inside the pole barn. ruclips.net/p/PLvL7BnybEP6DGOcn6nEW0m5-BazXNjC8U
Looks good. I always wish that I would have set up a camera on projects like this just so I could look back and see the progress, plus it would help others potentially. Maybe I’ll have to do it when I put my heated floor in my new shop.
Was thinking about putting radiant heating in the driveway at the cabin. Going to be very interested in the energy consumption on your system. Great job on the install!!
I was talking to an installer here and he said the nice thing about heating a driveway is that you only need to heat it enough to melt the snow, so it's usually pretty cheap to operate
I would have used a monobloc ASHP, probably more expensive than that electric heater but it would save significant money in the long term. Plus, some models are reversible so you can cool the space in summer.
You do nice work my man. Project like this I would have justified buying a crimper instead of soldering everything, but good on you for getting er done
- Your PEX lines through the cement floor do not have sleeves or sleeve headers coming through. - They are not in line with your headers either. - Your expansion tank has to have a isolation valve as per code - Other than that your braces bracing your piping are wonderful, your soldering is very nice and your work is straight. - You used dielectric unions where dissimilar metals met. - You have nice work.. - It is BMD Plumbing approved.
With a disclaimer for different manufacturers and local regulations compression fittings works perfectly fine with PEX as long as you also use a support sleeve inside (just as for soft copper) - be careful no to overtighten though. Major drawback is that you can't release them with a bit of heat and re-mount as with dedicated PEX thus if opened you will likely sit with to short PEX and need to put in an extra piece of tubing.
Great point, and most rad-heat manifolds use compression fittings even with pex a/b, I was more talking about the behind the wall fittings for pex-al-pex, which isn't really applicable for me since all my pex lines are underground and I will not be running rad-heat to the upstairs
Minor details about the electric panel: not allowed to have any non-electrical items directly above or below the panel. Some of your copper piping encroached. For flush mounted panels you can skip the top and bottom wood cross members. Just support from sides. Saves a lot of work
To protect the system, I'd suggest running hydronic antifreeze in the system. That way if your out of town, power goes out for a week your pipes don't freeze. Small price to pay for piece of mind. You csn easily inject it into to your system with your full and drain valves. Very nice job on the install, reminds me of when I installed my tankless combi boiler and domestic hot water system from scratch.
If you're outdoor design temp is anywhere below 32 you definelty want to run glycol. Calculate the output lost by adding glycol also, glycol has a different density than water which affects its ability to transfer heat.
If you ever have to run more wire in an empty conduit, this is a neat trick. Take some cotton balls and attach them to a lightweight string and put that in one end of the conduit and a shop vac on the other end and suck the string thought the pipe. Then attach a larger rope and pull that through with the string. Use the larger line to pull the wire though. Leave a line in the conduit for any future need to pull more wire though at a later date.
I wish you a happy and healthy life. I was thinking what if you became I’ll and needed to call a plumber/electrician. Their faces would be something to witness once they laid eyes on your system !! None of the guys I know would not have a clue where to trouble shoot your system!
Neat stuff. I have done a couple of these, but I always use the home's domestic water supply (pump, for instance) to pressurise the system, through a SERIOUS backflow valve (the kind that physically drips if the pressure ever permits back flow) and a pressure reduction valve. You hook this to the cold water supply and NEVER worry about water loss. I would not use BIP nipples in this application if you can avoid it, use brass, plastic, PEX, anything else, as the BIP tends to develop deposits on their innards that can plug up in a bunch of years. Also, a strainer with a magnet to catch metal deposits (before the expensive parts) is a good idea. If you had asked about locating the lift BEFORE filling the infloor PEX with water I would have said "Rent a saw, cut the floor out, install the footings, repair the pex connections, pour your concrete, et voila." Because you filled the PEX, my advice now includes a recommendation to use a wet/dry shop vac to suck the water out of the pex lines, then, locate the lift, rent a saw, cut the floor, frame up the footings, repair the pex first of course (connectors are pretty cheap, and any metal you leave exposed in the concrete floor should be well-wrapped up in black tape), pour the footings with whatever high psi concrete mix you deem, et voila. Also, rather than use thermostats to control the heat, you can slow the flow of water at the circ pump to maintain a temperature. In my sustem, I use a TALENTO 121-120 close-cycle timer (like a 24h timer, with the pins you pull/push except rotates once/hr) to pulse the water in the floor once per hour for a couple minutes so the concrete never gets cold, and does not have to recover the heat from a really cold state. You have to experiment a bit to get this set just right, but in our house, we pretty much ignore the thermostats. Excellent video, thanks for sharing.
Have radient floor heat in our passive solar heated house and it works great. Ours is a dual pump system so during the day when sunlight is falling on the slab one pump circulates the water through the floor to move the heat throughout the insulated slab. At night, if the house drops below a certain temp, that pump shuts down and a second pump redirects the circulation through a heat exchanger to keep the house at the set night time temp. Right now, late November, with night temps dropping below 15° F the pump on the heat circuit hasn't yet activated. You should enjoy your new system.
@@AustinCoulson Yeah. Swings about 65° F so 50° high for the day but almost always sunny. 5-7 inches of precipitation a year living in the rain shadow of the South San Juans. I think Spokane averages about the same as we do. I think it's great you found such a good place to proceed with your family adventure.
@@JohnBrinkPhoto wow your setup sounds brilliant. I have not heard of anyone doing what I think I understood. Would you consider doing a overview video of your system? Would love to see it/learn more. If you do post the video, please let us know here so that we don't miss it.
I was going to attempt a radiant floor but that looks like a lot of complicated plumbing and planning. You wanna come to Kentucky and show me how to lay it out? Lol thanks for the video man! Been watching your channel since the crown vic build
I will explain more in the next video, but I didn't design this system, I had a local company that installs RFH come out and size out the boiler and draw a schematic for me as I didn't want to mess anything up on my first go around. I would have saved a lot of money doing it myself, but I would have undersized the boiler and skipped on a few ball valves that may have made servicing difficult later on. Glad to see you are still watching the channel, I will have a follow up on the Crown vic soon (new coils and bump stops)
You might want to add a line off your air bleed to your output on your T&P valve so that if it ever leaks, it won't dribble onto your boiler. I've not seen that bleed valve before, but I know in commercial projects we've worked on I've seen leakers. I'm curious as to the cost of what you installed here, manifolds to boiler. I'm still trying to get my shop build going and finalizing my plans, have considered radiant heat. My plans are for a 30x50 with 3 shop bays that will be 30x40 and a 10x30 office area that has a safe room (above ground storm shelter for here in tornado alley).
looks exact what I hope to do. what do you call each of those small pieces so I can buy them? so far this is the best video showing details. i've been searching 2 years now.
Hi Austin. Thank you for the amazing videos. They are very well done and very helpful for others like me who are working on their radiant heat projects. I had a question for you regarding your use of Tee's and end caps in your plumbing layout. Is the purpose of using those vs a 90 degree elbow to avoid water hammer issues or is there another reason? Thanks again for sharing!
It's more to keep flow even between the 2 lines. If you have a T and an elbow, the elbow will receive more flow. Having two T's and an end cap essentially makes the line a manifold with equal or near equal pressure to each line. I hope I explained that clearly.
Good Job......My neighbor has floor heat.....you can take a nap on the floor in the middle of winter....You may need to use 4 post hoist tho.....No drilling the floor.
I have been trying to come up with a solution that allows me to anchor a 2 post lift. I can use a FLIR and see more or less where the lines run as it heats, but it's not exact. I should ask in the follow up video if anyone has a solution. What is crazy is the previous owner installed floor anchors, but as far as I can tell there is nowhere that was designed for a lift
@@AustinCoulson If you can find out from former owner where the tubes are in the slab depth they may be out of harms way. And FLIR absolutely will show you where they are.
@@AustinCoulson if you let the slab to get cold and turn the heat on, Flir camera will definitely show you the pipes. Once the slab gets warm it's too hard to tell. Some home depots rent them thermal imaging cameras
@@bahopik Yep, this should do it. Have the system off for a few hours, then on full speed and use the FLIR. Mark out with tape where you are putting posts / anchors.
it seems to be a closed loop system. i was wondering why you didn't use the glycol alcohol fluid (i think it may evaporate less than straight water)? I did one of these last year in my new shop, I love it! mine required two pumps, it has a crossover from the input to the output of the heat exchanger for efficiency. any ways great video as usual really like watching a pro! also if you do end up going with a two post lift, some lift installers have the thermal imaging cameras to avoid drilling into your pex. I know CEM lifts in Post falls has one
This is a closed loop system. I was told the glycol would only be required if I was leaving the house during the winter months and there was risk of the pipes freezing, and evaporation wouldn't be an issue because It is a sealed system with an oxygen barrier in the PEX-AL-PEX. A second pump for crossover seems efficient, Ill have to look into that.
It wasn't a ton of time, I did it in little bits here and there over a couple weeks. I'd say everything in the video was maybe 40 hours of labor including the walls
Great video, really looking forward to this series. Your barndo, shop build and land will give you videos for days... But not all topics crossover to all watchers... If you made a 2nd channel dedicated to the barndo, land and even the shop, I would certainly subscribe... That said, I thought your videos on RUclips analytics/channels was great and how you deliver your content is awesome. Just pointing out the real opportunity for diversified channels, content and followers. Many here will follow your 2nd channel if you make it... Many others will follow the 2nd and some may find their way of enjoying content here ... Help RUclips algorithm work for you. Let them send you two checks!
I appreciate the comment. I had thought about starting a new channel, especially when I was in Tennessee doing the House remodel, but I haven't decided on anything yet. I think you are right about making it easier for the algorithms to send people my way
Getting ready to build a 50 by 60 and was thinking about radiant. However we stay off grid via solar. Looks like your meter showed the boiler pulling over 60amp, is that correct?
Yes, 65amp on 220v so it is a power hog, but it doesn't run for very long, maybe 20 min on, and 2-3 hours off when it is really cold. I did a follow up video where I go over the exact energy use using the power meter, and I am working on another one that shows the total energy use and cost for the entire winter.
It would be good if you could discuss the importance of dielectric couplings when mating up different metal types in a system which I'm sure you incorporated (i see one anyway).
Thank you for this detailed video and great quality set up working performance. ı want to ask something but today I really sad about my English weakness. Don't lough about my English writing.. ı just wonder if you are thinking about another heat source (i mean at the future) so you builded up a hydroulic heat transfer system , including pumps , pipelines , collectors, safety veins , air separators , valfs , elecric controlled valfs , expanson tank .. etc... You may thinkng about use a heat pump or gas heater or coal - wood burner in the future , ofcourse you would build a system like this , but if you will continue with elecric heater you could use electic energy directly at the zone or room etc. where you are transfering the heat by pipes. just you set up cable lines ( İt is more easy and cheap) to the parts of your home and you can easly produce heat at the target area by using a electric radiator , heater with convector , a quartz radiant or halogen radiant heater ,,, also you could use electric under floor heaters( many many options).By this way temperature controling of zones or rooms are avalible more easy and effective. At that way there would't be energy lose about isolation or working mechanical parts. Just I want to understant. Thank you if you read until here. Don't lough my writing faults, İn my daily life I'm not using English anywhere. Best regards and good luck.
Great questions. I am planning on running a mini-split AC/Heat pump setup so I will have that option for heat, as well as a fireplace, but I haven't decided on if that will be wood fired or electric. I am considering running alternate plumbing to this radiant floor system to allow it to be heated by burning wood in the event of power loss, but I have not decided on that for sure yet.
@@AustinCoulson Good idea.. Also there are fieplaces heating water while burning wood. But there must be double pipeline with your mechanic room and fireplace.. İn the other hand gasification wood burners are producing wery high heat by using cheap woods but if the wood is really dry. Anyway your system is suitable for alternate sources. Thank you for your answer.
Not bad for a DIY system. I would definitely replace that black iron pipe out unless you have some inhibitol in that water. Otherwise that is a sure fire way to prematurely wreck your system
That BIP annoyed me so much. I was trying to run stainless for the small amount I had, but couldn't source it at the time (this was right in the middle of the pandemic) I saw your other comment on the Inhibitol and added that (along with 15% antifreeze) to the system recently during a flush.
How is the one pump keeping up with two zones ? I see many two zone systems using three pumps. Your system with the one pump and two valves for zone control looks like a much simpler design.
This pump has no problems moving water through the entire system, even on low speed. I was advised on this single pump setup because I have a very short run to the boiler, and am controlling the two zones with the Taco valves. A lot of the multi-pump setups I have seen use separate pumps to control the zones, as opposed to the Taco valves, or they have a very long run from the boiler to the manifold.
Good morning ; I have a question (with google translate). for copper soldering, what metal did you use? and if possible put the link to buy it. BEST REGARDS
pretty much any leadless solder will work: www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Soldering-Kit-with-1-7-oz-Lead-Free-Water-Soluble-Flux-Paste-and-4-oz-Silver-Solder-Wire-506912/202515582
I use a ramset with a 2.5in nail. I prefer concrete anchors, and still use small ones at the door jams, but I have to be careful with the tubes underground. The tubes are all supposed to be 4-6" under the surface, but you never know when someone else did the concrete
Plumbing noob here. Is there any reason you couldn't do the system with pex instead of copper? also clever usage of the pipe wrench for twisting your boards!
Hi there, fellow Barndo builder! I used Copper on the radiant floor mainly for longevity as pex has an expansion/contraction rate of around 5% when being heated vs cooled. I wanted a rigid system that I could securely mount to the wall without any flexing occurring during the heat cycles. Pex is rated at 180* which is well under what my system runs at, so it would have worked but I would have had a lot of connections where it goes from PEX to metal fittings and I've always looked at clamp or compression fittings as much more of a failure point than a soldered copper connections.
Pex is obviously easier and faster but I like using copper on the boiler loop as it has a better flow rate than pex as the fittings are female whereas pex uses male fittings
Man electric must be cheap out there compared to NY! I would not even consider an electric boiler for my radiant floor system...went with a monobloc air to water heat pump instead, bonus, can chill the floor in the summer for cooling!
Can you send me a link to the heat pump you used? Although electricity is very cheap here (.068% per kWh) I am still thinking of changing to a heat pump, but I cannot find one like you've described
@@AustinCoulson Spacepak, chiltrix, Artic Heat pumps, MBTek (which is what I have BUT tech support is basically non-existent), there's more I'm sure. If you search youtube for "john siegenthaler" and "air to water heat pump" he has a lot of videos out there. Yeah that's cheap electric...we're ~.14kwh
FYI, I have moved over my entire Barndominium build series over to its own channel:
www.youtube.com/@thehomesteadthread
here is a link to the next episode:
ruclips.net/video/KOU8GSEP5ZA/видео.html
That system is so sweet. My favorite part is when we had the shop door open for a while moving the pizza truck around, and as soon as we shut the door it felt immediately warm again.
Your knowledge of many different mechanical systems is as impressive as it is inspiring, thanks for showing us all of your projects!
What a find! I love your building!
With empty conduit use a shop vac at one end and an appropriate plastic bag on the other with builders string tied to it. Suck the bag through, pulling the string. If needed tie string to a heavier rope for pulling wire.
Someone else mentioned the same thing, but I had never heard of that before. Must be a common trick that passed me by. I will try that in the future, Thanks
@@AustinCoulson, that wadded piece of grocery sack makes a perfect shuttle. It's a very satisfying thing to witness. I did it underground in a run of 110ft when bringing cable from my house to a new shop build. The speed at which it reappeared at the business end took me by surprise and I had to extricate the plastic from the bowels of my vacuum filter bag.
This was a fantastic video, and two thumbs up for the great installation!
This is such a well done video, narrative is so easy to follow!
Love your attention to details ❗️
Great looking project ❗️
You did an awesome plumbing job....Very impressed
Really clean, nice job.
You got skill!
Very nice job.
great video. Nice work. I enjoyed the blue tape layout.
Impressive work done. Good on you!!
That trick with the pipe dope + tape together is straight genius. Thanks for that
Love the blue tape layout. Excellent idea
This has just became my favorite channel! Thankfully one of your videos came across my feed
This is the real job!
Greetings from Montevideo, Uruguay! Congrats!
Man you're BEYOND talented, great stuff
Blue tape is brilliant! As is connecting all the piping on the wall before soldering it.
Finally found your videos that shows almost my exact project. Really am thank full!! We are just 2800 sq feet 40x70x12 living area 24x40.Starting fall 2023..... Thank you so much for sharing!
Great Techniques!
Here in Louisiana we don't do radiant floor heating. I'm always fascinated by the idea though, and this really helped me understand the install process. Thanks for the great content.
My sons a plumber and plumbs grocery stores and he says it looks good.Glad you found a place Austin Cheers!
You nailed it!
Awesome job
Great vid. Very cool!!
Nice job!
Hope you and your family had a good Thanksgiving. I like that you tell us why you are doing what your doing and easy to follow. The blue tape pattern is a good idea.
Thanks! Same to you!
Very cool video!
For future needs, you can use a vacuum and a rope with some fabric attached to it to feed the pipe with the rope.
I'm running a similar setup with my 50x30 pole barn in central Minnesota and couldn't be happier with it. I run two zones, 62 degrees in my workshop and 50 degrees in the rest of the barn. I get half price electric rates for heating by allowing my COOP to interrupt service during high load periods. My pole barn has always stayed warm during the interruption because my slab is a giant heat sync. Last year my highest monthly heating bill was $106 for Feb. You're going to love your system.
How many BTU is your boiler?
Mine is an Electro 10KW boiler rated at 34,100 BTUs.
@@TheToolmanTim looks like you have a pretty cool channel. Thanks for sharing about your system here.
I didn't spot a video on your system; could you point us to your video/playlist on your radiant heat setup? If you don't have one yet, it would be a cool overview video to see and would appreciate a heads up if you make it in the future.
@@l0gic23 Thanks. I didn't create a video detailing the boiler, but I did show it with some brief overview info in a series of videos covering how I finished out a workshop inside the pole barn. ruclips.net/p/PLvL7BnybEP6DGOcn6nEW0m5-BazXNjC8U
@@TheToolmanTim cool thanks. I'll give that playlist a watch sooner vs later
Looks good. I always wish that I would have set up a camera on projects like this just so I could look back and see the progress, plus it would help others potentially. Maybe I’ll have to do it when I put my heated floor in my new shop.
very helpful. thanks
That was a lot of work. I liked the music.
Thanks, That was some new music I found on the RUclips audio library as it seemed like I was using the same songs over and over
*Barndominium* Ha Ha... That is awesome! Another cracking AC episode!
So cool man!!!
Looked good. I like planing that stuff out. Wishing you and yours a good Thanksgiving!
Thanks! You too!
Nice work..👍🏻
Very impressive.
I’m an aeronautical engineer and found this fascinating…you’re a genius. I hope you know that!
Nice work…
nice work.
Let me tell you...I absolutely love a Craftsman. I am a craftsman myself and absolutely love to see a craftsman at work!! Amazing work!!
I checked out your bathroom remodel and you aren't lying, you do great work.
Beautiful work but I am blown away by the complexity of a system that sends hot water through plastic pipe.
Glad I found you
Was thinking about putting radiant heating in the driveway at the cabin. Going to be very interested in the energy consumption on your system. Great job on the install!!
I was talking to an installer here and he said the nice thing about heating a driveway is that you only need to heat it enough to melt the snow, so it's usually pretty cheap to operate
Amazing 👍👍😎👍👍
Nice!
You should put positive air pressure with nitrogen through the pipes when you braze them. This stops oxidizing on the inside and prevents scaling.
Nitrogen is used for brazing, this is soldering key differences being the temperature of the heat
Just add a scale filter ;- )
I would have used a monobloc ASHP, probably more expensive than that electric heater but it would save significant money in the long term. Plus, some models are reversible so you can cool the space in summer.
Good one Austin! 👍 I need to do my system in the basement...have the pipes sticking out for the last 9 years...I know priorities right! 🤦♂
That's crazy. Remember when we remodeled our bathrooms at the same time on accident?
@@AustinCoulson Of course man I remember! Don't know how and when, but we have to do a colab one day on something!
You do nice work my man. Project like this I would have justified buying a crimper instead of soldering everything, but good on you for getting er done
- Your PEX lines through the cement floor do not have sleeves or sleeve headers coming through.
- They are not in line with your headers either.
- Your expansion tank has to have a isolation valve as per code
- Other than that your braces bracing your piping are wonderful, your soldering is very nice and your work is straight.
- You used dielectric unions where dissimilar metals met.
- You have nice work..
- It is BMD Plumbing approved.
With a disclaimer for different manufacturers and local regulations compression fittings works perfectly fine with PEX as long as you also use a support sleeve inside (just as for soft copper) - be careful no to overtighten though.
Major drawback is that you can't release them with a bit of heat and re-mount as with dedicated PEX thus if opened you will likely sit with to short PEX and need to put in an extra piece of tubing.
Great point, and most rad-heat manifolds use compression fittings even with pex a/b, I was more talking about the behind the wall fittings for pex-al-pex, which isn't really applicable for me since all my pex lines are underground and I will not be running rad-heat to the upstairs
Minor details about the electric panel: not allowed to have any non-electrical items directly above or below the panel. Some of your copper piping encroached.
For flush mounted panels you can skip the top and bottom wood cross members. Just support from sides. Saves a lot of work
To protect the system, I'd suggest running hydronic antifreeze in the system. That way if your out of town, power goes out for a week your pipes don't freeze. Small price to pay for piece of mind. You csn easily inject it into to your system with your full and drain valves. Very nice job on the install, reminds me of when I installed my tankless combi boiler and domestic hot water system from scratch.
Thanks for the recommendation, I am still considering running antifreeze in it, especially for a power loss like you said
If you're outdoor design temp is anywhere below 32 you definelty want to run glycol. Calculate the output lost by adding glycol also, glycol has a different density than water which affects its ability to transfer heat.
yup run glycol, 1 hicup can set you back thousands, lots of manhours, downtime etc, moreso these days with guaranteed shortages on everything.
How much did that cost for your system?
If you ever have to run more wire in an empty conduit, this is a neat trick. Take some cotton balls and attach them to a lightweight string and put that in one end of the conduit and a shop vac on the other end and suck the string thought the pipe. Then attach a larger rope and pull that through with the string. Use the larger line to pull the wire though. Leave a line in the conduit for any future need to pull more wire though at a later date.
I wish you a happy and healthy life. I was thinking what if you became I’ll and needed to call a plumber/electrician. Their faces would be something to witness once they laid eyes on your system !! None of the guys I know would not have a clue where to trouble shoot your system!
Neat stuff. I have done a couple of these, but I always use the home's domestic water supply (pump, for instance) to pressurise the system, through a SERIOUS backflow valve (the kind that physically drips if the pressure ever permits back flow) and a pressure reduction valve. You hook this to the cold water supply and NEVER worry about water loss. I would not use BIP nipples in this application if you can avoid it, use brass, plastic, PEX, anything else, as the BIP tends to develop deposits on their innards that can plug up in a bunch of years. Also, a strainer with a magnet to catch metal deposits (before the expensive parts) is a good idea.
If you had asked about locating the lift BEFORE filling the infloor PEX with water I would have said "Rent a saw, cut the floor out, install the footings, repair the pex connections, pour your concrete, et voila." Because you filled the PEX, my advice now includes a recommendation to use a wet/dry shop vac to suck the water out of the pex lines, then, locate the lift, rent a saw, cut the floor, frame up the footings, repair the pex first of course (connectors are pretty cheap, and any metal you leave exposed in the concrete floor should be well-wrapped up in black tape), pour the footings with whatever high psi concrete mix you deem, et voila.
Also, rather than use thermostats to control the heat, you can slow the flow of water at the circ pump to maintain a temperature.
In my sustem, I use a TALENTO 121-120 close-cycle timer (like a 24h timer, with the pins you pull/push except rotates once/hr) to pulse the water in the floor once per hour for a couple minutes so the concrete never gets cold, and does not have to recover the heat from a really cold state. You have to experiment a bit to get this set just right, but in our house, we pretty much ignore the thermostats.
Excellent video, thanks for sharing.
Please consider a video on your best/next build. Would love to see that.
If you make a video, please let us know here.
Sweet
Have radient floor heat in our passive solar heated house and it works great. Ours is a dual pump system so during the day when sunlight is falling on the slab one pump circulates the water through the floor to move the heat throughout the insulated slab. At night, if the house drops below a certain temp, that pump shuts down and a second pump redirects the circulation through a heat exchanger to keep the house at the set night time temp. Right now, late November, with night temps dropping below 15° F the pump on the heat circuit hasn't yet activated. You should enjoy your new system.
Hey John, great to see you here. I didn't realize it was that cold in the San Luis Valley already. We have stayed right around 30* at night so far
@@AustinCoulson Yeah. Swings about 65° F so 50° high for the day but almost always sunny. 5-7 inches of precipitation a year living in the rain shadow of the South San Juans. I think Spokane averages about the same as we do. I think it's great you found such a good place to proceed with your family adventure.
@@JohnBrinkPhoto wow your setup sounds brilliant. I have not heard of anyone doing what I think I understood.
Would you consider doing a overview video of your system? Would love to see it/learn more. If you do post the video, please let us know here so that we don't miss it.
Amazing job, if I ever…
smart man
CEM lifts in post falls (not far from spokane) has a thermal image camera that can locate the pex lines so they can avoid drilling in to them!
Thanks for the heads up
This is surprisingly interesting.
We START by painting the plywood flat black. It’s dry before we’re setting up staging of tools/ materials and it makes the installation pop
What Boiler did you used in your video? Do you have a materials list for the major components?
I was going to attempt a radiant floor but that looks like a lot of complicated plumbing and planning. You wanna come to Kentucky and show me how to lay it out? Lol thanks for the video man! Been watching your channel since the crown vic build
I will explain more in the next video, but I didn't design this system, I had a local company that installs RFH come out and size out the boiler and draw a schematic for me as I didn't want to mess anything up on my first go around. I would have saved a lot of money doing it myself, but I would have undersized the boiler and skipped on a few ball valves that may have made servicing difficult later on. Glad to see you are still watching the channel, I will have a follow up on the Crown vic soon (new coils and bump stops)
@@AustinCoulson might as well spice it up with a small supercharger for a little more off road grunt lol
@@KyleCotton1 I'm trying to convince Gavin @ death toll racing to twin turbo his crown Vic with cheap parts so I can do it to Fugly
You might want to add a line off your air bleed to your output on your T&P valve so that if it ever leaks, it won't dribble onto your boiler. I've not seen that bleed valve before, but I know in commercial projects we've worked on I've seen leakers. I'm curious as to the cost of what you installed here, manifolds to boiler. I'm still trying to get my shop build going and finalizing my plans, have considered radiant heat. My plans are for a 30x50 with 3 shop bays that will be 30x40 and a 10x30 office area that has a safe room (above ground storm shelter for here in tornado alley).
Great Idea on the bleed off valve
looks exact what I hope to do. what do you call each of those small pieces so I can buy them? so far this is the best video showing details. i've been searching 2 years now.
Hi Austin. Thank you for the amazing videos. They are very well done and very helpful for others like me who are working on their radiant heat projects. I had a question for you regarding your use of Tee's and end caps in your plumbing layout. Is the purpose of using those vs a 90 degree elbow to avoid water hammer issues or is there another reason? Thanks again for sharing!
It's more to keep flow even between the 2 lines. If you have a T and an elbow, the elbow will receive more flow. Having two T's and an end cap essentially makes the line a manifold with equal or near equal pressure to each line. I hope I explained that clearly.
@@AustinCoulson I was not aware of that but it makes sense. Thanks!
I just forwarded it...hopefully it works for ya....
Good Job......My neighbor has floor heat.....you can take a nap on the floor in the middle of winter....You may need to use 4 post hoist tho.....No drilling the floor.
I have been trying to come up with a solution that allows me to anchor a 2 post lift. I can use a FLIR and see more or less where the lines run as it heats, but it's not exact. I should ask in the follow up video if anyone has a solution. What is crazy is the previous owner installed floor anchors, but as far as I can tell there is nowhere that was designed for a lift
CEM lifts in post falls (not far from spokane) has a thermal image camera that can locate the pex lines so they can avoid drilling in to them!
@@AustinCoulson If you can find out from former owner where the tubes are in the slab depth they may be out of harms way. And FLIR absolutely will show you where they are.
@@AustinCoulson if you let the slab to get cold and turn the heat on, Flir camera will definitely show you the pipes. Once the slab gets warm it's too hard to tell. Some home depots rent them thermal imaging cameras
@@bahopik Yep, this should do it. Have the system off for a few hours, then on full speed and use the FLIR. Mark out with tape where you are putting posts / anchors.
it seems to be a closed loop system. i was wondering why you didn't use the glycol alcohol fluid (i think it may evaporate less than straight water)? I did one of these last year in my new shop, I love it! mine required two pumps, it has a crossover from the input to the output of the heat exchanger for efficiency.
any ways great video as usual really like watching a pro! also if you do end up going with a two post lift, some lift installers have the thermal imaging cameras to avoid drilling into your pex. I know CEM lifts in Post falls has one
This is a closed loop system. I was told the glycol would only be required if I was leaving the house during the winter months and there was risk of the pipes freezing, and evaporation wouldn't be an issue because It is a sealed system with an oxygen barrier in the PEX-AL-PEX. A second pump for crossover seems efficient, Ill have to look into that.
Glycol isn’t a free ride. It is more viscous so pumps need to work harder and it is not as good as transferring heat as straight H2O.
Awesome video. You made it look easy. If you don't mind me asking, how long did it take to do the job from start to finish?
It wasn't a ton of time, I did it in little bits here and there over a couple weeks. I'd say everything in the video was maybe 40 hours of labor including the walls
Great video, really looking forward to this series.
Your barndo, shop build and land will give you videos for days... But not all topics crossover to all watchers... If you made a 2nd channel dedicated to the barndo, land and even the shop, I would certainly subscribe...
That said, I thought your videos on RUclips analytics/channels was great and how you deliver your content is awesome. Just pointing out the real opportunity for diversified channels, content and followers. Many here will follow your 2nd channel if you make it... Many others will follow the 2nd and some may find their way of enjoying content here ... Help RUclips algorithm work for you. Let them send you two checks!
I appreciate the comment. I had thought about starting a new channel, especially when I was in Tennessee doing the House remodel, but I haven't decided on anything yet. I think you are right about making it easier for the algorithms to send people my way
Great video! I'll be doing something similar in my garage, but with only one zone. What electric boiler did you end up using?
Stant 16kw. I will go over all the part numbers next episode when I go over energy and material costs as well.
@@AustinCoulson awesome! Thanks for the info! I’m looking forward to next episode.
Never seen a system run off a reservoir like that. That’s pretty cool. Do you have any low water protection for the boiler?
Getting ready to build a 50 by 60 and was thinking about radiant. However we stay off grid via solar. Looks like your meter showed the boiler pulling over 60amp, is that correct?
Yes, 65amp on 220v so it is a power hog, but it doesn't run for very long, maybe 20 min on, and 2-3 hours off when it is really cold. I did a follow up video where I go over the exact energy use using the power meter, and I am working on another one that shows the total energy use and cost for the entire winter.
It would be good if you could discuss the importance of dielectric couplings when mating up different metal types in a system which I'm sure you incorporated (i see one anyway).
I thought I talked about that, but I guess not. I've got a follow up video coming out on my homestead thread channel, I'll try to mention it then.
Thank you for this detailed video and great quality set up working performance. ı want to ask something but today I really sad about my English weakness. Don't lough about my English writing.. ı just wonder if you are thinking about another heat source (i mean at the future) so you builded up a hydroulic heat transfer system , including pumps , pipelines , collectors, safety veins , air separators , valfs , elecric controlled valfs , expanson tank .. etc... You may thinkng about use a heat pump or gas heater or coal - wood burner in the future , ofcourse you would build a system like this , but if you will continue with elecric heater you could use electic energy directly at the zone or room etc. where you are transfering the heat by pipes. just you set up cable lines ( İt is more easy and cheap) to the parts of your home and you can easly produce heat at the target area by using a electric radiator , heater with convector , a quartz radiant or halogen radiant heater ,,, also you could use electric under floor heaters( many many options).By this way temperature controling of zones or rooms are avalible more easy and effective. At that way there would't be energy lose about isolation or working mechanical parts. Just I want to understant. Thank you if you read until here. Don't lough my writing faults, İn my daily life I'm not using English anywhere. Best regards and good luck.
Great questions. I am planning on running a mini-split AC/Heat pump setup so I will have that option for heat, as well as a fireplace, but I haven't decided on if that will be wood fired or electric. I am considering running alternate plumbing to this radiant floor system to allow it to be heated by burning wood in the event of power loss, but I have not decided on that for sure yet.
@@AustinCoulson Good idea.. Also there are fieplaces heating water while burning wood. But there must be double pipeline with your mechanic room and fireplace.. İn the other hand gasification wood burners are producing wery high heat by using cheap woods but if the wood is really dry. Anyway your system is suitable for alternate sources. Thank you for your answer.
Not bad for a DIY system. I would definitely replace that black iron pipe out unless you have some inhibitol in that water. Otherwise that is a sure fire way to prematurely wreck your system
That BIP annoyed me so much. I was trying to run stainless for the small amount I had, but couldn't source it at the time (this was right in the middle of the pandemic) I saw your other comment on the Inhibitol and added that (along with 15% antifreeze) to the system recently during a flush.
Hi. What might cause vibration (almost shaking) concrete floor?
FYI, a heating system installed in it
cavitation or air trapped in the lines.
Pulling a slight vacuum at the air relief valve would make getting rid of air easier
Dang, I never thought of that. I have a vacuum pump that woulda worked perfect for that.
Was the manifold built or did you build it? Where did you purchase the manifold and the the components? Great work
supplyhouse.com
Where did you get all the fittings and manifolds?
How is the one pump keeping up with two zones ? I see many two zone systems using three pumps. Your system with the one pump and two valves for zone control looks like a much simpler design.
This pump has no problems moving water through the entire system, even on low speed. I was advised on this single pump setup because I have a very short run to the boiler, and am controlling the two zones with the Taco valves. A lot of the multi-pump setups I have seen use separate pumps to control the zones, as opposed to the Taco valves, or they have a very long run from the boiler to the manifold.
Good morning ; I have a question (with google translate). for copper soldering, what metal did you use? and if possible put the link to buy it. BEST REGARDS
pretty much any leadless solder will work:
www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Soldering-Kit-with-1-7-oz-Lead-Free-Water-Soluble-Flux-Paste-and-4-oz-Silver-Solder-Wire-506912/202515582
I think Boeing has a very good installation technician.
When you built interior walls, how’d you attach the walls to the floor? There are tubes in the floor
I use a ramset with a 2.5in nail. I prefer concrete anchors, and still use small ones at the door jams, but I have to be careful with the tubes underground. The tubes are all supposed to be 4-6" under the surface, but you never know when someone else did the concrete
How many degrees does it heat upto
interested in the GMP autofiller. Can you provide a link?
Can you please provide a list of the Equipment you used? Please.
Not afraid of galvanic corrosion between brass/copper/bronze and "black steel" pipe joints?
Very jealous - it would be impossible to do over here in the UK as there are so many silly rules and regulations :(
Plumbing noob here. Is there any reason you couldn't do the system with pex instead of copper? also clever usage of the pipe wrench for twisting your boards!
Hi there, fellow Barndo builder! I used Copper on the radiant floor mainly for longevity as pex has an expansion/contraction rate of around 5% when being heated vs cooled. I wanted a rigid system that I could securely mount to the wall without any flexing occurring during the heat cycles. Pex is rated at 180* which is well under what my system runs at, so it would have worked but I would have had a lot of connections where it goes from PEX to metal fittings and I've always looked at clamp or compression fittings as much more of a failure point than a soldered copper connections.
Pex is obviously easier and faster but I like using copper on the boiler loop as it has a better flow rate than pex as the fittings are female whereas pex uses male fittings
wrap the thread with tigersaw blade, and the teflon will never slide
Looks good, the only critique is that I would have used L copper instead of M.
If copper wasn't so expensive, I may have gone with that.
I completely understand.
If you ever have to pull a pull string, tie a string to a plastic bag wadded up and use your shop vac to suck it thru the conduit.
Been looking into these heating systems.. I see this is about a year old, what kind of power consumption does this system eat?
ruclips.net/video/ErvG1SzHYqg/видео.html
Man electric must be cheap out there compared to NY! I would not even consider an electric boiler for my radiant floor system...went with a monobloc air to water heat pump instead, bonus, can chill the floor in the summer for cooling!
Can you send me a link to the heat pump you used? Although electricity is very cheap here (.068% per kWh) I am still thinking of changing to a heat pump, but I cannot find one like you've described
@@AustinCoulson Spacepak, chiltrix, Artic Heat pumps, MBTek (which is what I have BUT tech support is basically non-existent), there's more I'm sure. If you search youtube for "john siegenthaler" and "air to water heat pump" he has a lot of videos out there.
Yeah that's cheap electric...we're ~.14kwh
@@pavalenta thanks for the info