How to Fit a Pressure Reducing Valve to Fix a Cistern Overflow Problem
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2021
- I've installed a pressure reducing valve on the water feed into our toilet cistern after 3 water fill valves failed due to the high water pressure. I also install a Viva Skylo bottom entry fill valve and talk about the double check filters.
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0:00 Start
0:01 Intro
0:25 Benefits of dual flush fill valve cistern
1:20 Viva Skylo Bottom Entry Fill Valve failure
1:55 Resideo Braukmann Pressure Reducing Valve
3:41 Draining pipework and cutting pipes
3:57 Pipe Bending
4:56 Deburring Pipes
6:08 Skylo Bottom Entry Fill Valve
06:15 Double check filter
10:50 Subscribing to my channel
Today's Toolkit *
- Viva Skyo 15mm Bottom Entry Fill Valve geni.us/P3fl (Amazon)
- resideo Braukmann Pressure Reducing Valve bit.ly/3l78ruo
- Irwin Hilmor 15 - 22mm pipe bender geni.us/Kl6p (Amazon)
- Bahco 15mm pipe cutter geni.us/x2kIlh (Amazon)
- Fernox Jointing Compound geni.us/VWOA3A (Amazon)
- Bahco Slip joint pliers geni.us/Ylz2 (Amazon)
- Bahco 200mm adjustable wrench geni.us/GDkO4m (Amazon)
- Bahco 250mm adjustable wrench geni.us/vFzZCAs (Amazon)
- Stanely ratchet screwdriver geni.us/uVHxXNo (Amazon)
Plumberparts Instagram page / plumberparts
Yorkshire Water backflow protection policy pdf bit.ly/2YaLixV
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#pressure #reducing #valve 
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Plumber parts is such a brilliant channel! I was a complete and utter know nothing when my flush broke.. James' videos taught me how to replace my flush, then I got ambitious and wanted new taps in bathroom and kitchen.. James to the rescue again. Along with Charlie they are the most helpful tubers out there. Both amazing
Thanks Alex, really appreciate that. Yes he's a true pro and a lovely guy too.
Thanks Alex! I use Charlie's channel too - especially when choosing extract fans!
Afternoon Charlie , hope you don’t mind me saying . With your ridiculously high mains water pressure , I would advise a pressure reducing valve on the incoming mains , not just your downstairs wc . That amount of water pressure is a disaster waiting to happen . Putting huge strain on every water appliance /or outlet . 3.5 bar is more than enough . Most mains fed water systems , be it pressurised cylinders etc have combi valves reducing everything to 3bar .. just a bit of advice from an old school plumber . Take care . Oh and I enjoy your channel . Rosco .
Hi Ross, massive thanks for that. You're absolutely right. The slight problem I've got at the moment is the incoming pipe is behind the kitchen cupboards - the stop cock being the only part of it that's accessible. I should probably devote some time to taking them apart to access it, as I could do with putting a new stop cock on too. But I really appreciate you taking the time to advise me on this 👊🏻
16bar ..... Around 250PSI incoming water ! I think Charlie that sorting that and the stop cock moves up your to-do list several places before it makes itself number one in the middle of the night :-)
Yet another brilliant video. I just learn so much from these. Thanks again for taking the time Charlie!
Thanks mate, and good to hear from you. You're very welcome. 👊
Thanks so much for this info Charlie, like you we have recently had issues with our cistern which had to be sorted out…..much appreciated…be safe as always from South Africa
Thanks Val. Good to hear from you, and glad you got your problems sorted.
Another superb USABLE information packed Vid! Brilliant
Thanks Garviel. Good to hear from you, mate 👊
Excellent video, I fitted a few of those but didn't know those details, very useful, many thanks
Thanks Mahmoud. You're welcome 👍
Top content as always! Thanks Charlie.
Thanks Edward 👍
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I have a question about a primer. What primer is appropriate to use if I want to plaster with knauf plaster over a old surface of multifinish walls ?
Great work as always Charlie, love your videos, watch them even when I know they don’t even apply to me. Always learning…….
Thanks Jon, I really appreciate that. Thanks so much for your support. 👊
Thank you Charlie!
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment 👊
Great video, thanks Charlie
Thanks 👍
Another great video mate
Thanks mate 👊
Cracking video as ever and to quote James...hold tight!!
Thanks Carl 👍
Best tool for deburring pipes is the nose of a pair of pliers; simply insert into the pipe and twist a few times. I was a sparky many years ago and laid an awful lot of metal conduit and this was standard practice.
That's genius mate, thanks for the tip. Only problem is I just tried it with my Leatherman and whilst it creates a lovely shamfered outer edge, it accentuates the inner lip - because it's shaping the copper rather than removing it - which arguably makes the problem worse. Obviously it depends what sort of pliers you're using.
@@CharlieDIYte With copper I’d go gently as you also run the risk of opening the pipe out a bit given it’s so soft. Also helps if the edges on your pliers aren’t too sharp as you’ll end up creating another edge as you’ve said.
@@CharlieDIYte your poor leatherman
@@elliottlester74 Hmm, it is a little serrated around the edge now. It'll live though!
Always learn something new on your channel
Thanks mate. Really chuffed to hear that 👊
Very interesting, thanks. If not too unsightly, I generally prefer to install isolating valves that have small handles so in the event of emergency there’s no mad dash to get a screwdriver
Yes that's a very good point. 👍
Yeah it does annoy me too when a "professional" installation leaks, practically every other solder connection in my kitchen was crusty like that one you showed. I redid them all and wiped the flux off after.
Exactly - also no-one of the joints they did were deburred, so I live in fear of pin holing. Good work sorting yours out 👏🏻
For a proper seal to the pressure guage there is a conical washer that you can get (if you search carefully) that seals the pressure guage at the bottom but unfortunately it tends not to be supplied with the guage or the PRV. I found that a copper washer with a 5mm hole and 10mm outside diameter does the trick.
Thanks Richard 👌
Such videos like this help, as like you know, when you started looking into such things, there is very little info available to ordinary people, outside of plumbing trade, and how these systems work.
Like you know, toilets can be a real pain when there is problems, and there is very little places where you can be advised on how they work, and what may be the problem with your system.
The problem with plumber parts, is mainly he is uk based, and many people outside of uk, will have slightly differing systems.
Mainland europe, has alot of things different to uk plumbing systems, like how uk plumbing took the idea of manifolds in home systems, and are now starting using them in uk, when they were common in mainland europe for along time.
Although plumbing parts person is good at what he does, his version of plumbing is always uk based, and alot of people watching such vids, are not in uk, and countries will have lots of variations on how they do there plumbing.
But like you said at start, on toilets and how they work, ie parts, there is virtually no info anywhere, and you have to put bits of info from here and there, and try to work out a problem you have, and often simply people doing such vids, like plumbing parts, will never do vids on the sort of problem you are having. You mainly just get rough ideas on how variations may work on your system, if you do not live in uk, but at least his videos, do show the sort of logic behind the system, so you can have some sort of idea, of how to apply to your system.
Yes I'm sorry we can't make our videos more international, to appeal to a wider audience. As you say, it's difficult because the parts and methodology varies from one country to another.
Decent video bud 👌👌👌
Thanks mate 👊
Top man chas 👍👍👍
Thanks mate 👊
@@CharlieDIYte full bore valves from now on chas ✔️✔️✔️😂😂
Thanks for the video Sir.
I install today the same regulator.
Do you know if in future there's the possibility to open It from the top (plastic cap) for clean the filter?
I'm getting one fitted on the water maine in side my house. As It is Affecting my boiler/ Watching machin / and Toilet. I'm getting about 11 bar.
Very interesting about the noisy/banging pipes in the beginning of the video. In my case, a new washing machine with super fast micro valves resulted in a banging under the bath the other side of the house. No water hammer thingy gizmo could fix this. So I replaced the copper under the bath with JG pex & fittings and tied everything with cable ties...no banging, no water hammering, even the electric shower shuts down very quietly. Uncanny!
That's so interesting. It's crazy how it creates hammering elsewhere in the house. That's why I couldn't understand how the cistern could be to blame because the hammering wasn't close to it. Well done sorting your problem - nice bit of DIY detective work!
If you ever have the same issue, I found part closing the isolation valve next to the washing machine sorted the knocking caused by our LG washing machine (which also has a rapid on/off water fill at the start of the cycle)
Gexer 100 liter with pannel
Hi Charlie, thanks for another interesting video, just wondering if the same pressure reducing effect could be done by slightly closing the isolater valve,? Doing this worked for me on a cistern that was filling too violantly. All the pipe slices I've used swage in the copper on cutting through, I use a small half round file to remove it, provided I've got access . Cheers mate, looking forward to the next video, stay safe, best wishe's to all, Stuart uk.
Hi Stuart, thanks- you're very welcome 👊🏻 I should have mentioned this in the video. No, putting a half or 3/4 turn on the isolator simply reduces the flow but not the pressure. In some ways it could do more harm than good - using the analogy of putting your finger over a hose pipe.
@@CharlieDIYte Hi Charlie, thanks for the reply, your answer cleared that question up, as always your videos are clear, instructive, and a pleasure to watch,stay safe mate, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart uk.
Good video, I'm currently redoing the WC and the fill valve that came with the cistern seems very cheap, I may have to replace it. I'd be interested to know why the cistern setup can cause knocking. I wonder if it's just a difference in design of valves between the old and new variations
Considering the Viva valve is only £10 it's well worth doing. Not sure why it's resolved the issue, but the flow rate from the old ball valve would have been a lot higher, so creating more for in the pipes when someone else turned on a tap. Someone has commented that the valve in their old cistern was vibrating and this created the knocking, but I don't think that was happening in my case.
Hi Charlie,
Great video. Just a quick point that may be of interest, the inlet valve you installed is sadly not strictly legally allowed to be installed in a WC. According to BS standards and WRAS an inlet value in a WC has to be a "Type AG" backflow prevention device, the one you installed is a "Type DA" device meaning it relies on the umbrella valve at the top to prevent backflow. While this has been a requirement for a long time, this and joints below the critical waterline (like those in most adjustable inlet valves) because a hot topic about 3 years ago when there was a huge increase in reports of in cistern cleaning chemicals being siphoned back into the water supply.
Hi Tyron, thanks for this. Does the umbrella valve not prevent backflow then? I'll need to look into this. 👊
@@CharlieDIYte that's the reason u say strictly. The Type DA valves are used a lot in Europe and the US without much of an issue. The umbrella valve does open and vent vacuum to atmosphere in most situations provided the vacuum is enough to move the valve material. There had been discussion for years to allow these valves to be approved in the UK but they are not allowed to be installed into potable water systems at the moment.
Have you heard of the Water Hammer Arrestor to help with knocking?
Thanks Steve. I haven't, but I'll keep a note of that. I think ultimately I need a reduction valve on the water main inlet pipe coming into the house, which will probably solve any potential issues, but it's good to know about this. 👊
If you have a flow pump connected in the outlet of the water system, it is ideal to install a pressure reducing valve to save the water heater?
Charlie can you do a video on door frame paint removal and how to get a glued and nailed interior door archetrade off.
Bloody Barrett homes from mid seventies😖😖👍cheers John
Hi John, unfortunately I haven't really got one of these on the pipe line. However I bought a heat gun from Wickes years ago and use that when I need to strip paint - it's bit a beer good one though so maybe shop around and get yourself a few decent painters knives to scrape it off with. That and sanding. I think you'll have get a wide chisel and lever that architrave off if you're wanting to remove it though.
Another great video. Thanks, small detail, i think you're winding the ptfe onto the thread in the wrong direction, unless the video is mirrored?
Also be careful of passing the gauge upper limit, you may put it out of calibration.
Please keep up the good work
Thanks Julian. You're probably right about the PTFE tape. Yes I didn't really want to max out the valve like that but felt I ought to, to show the actual pressure in the video.
I always lick a bit of lsx around the olive.
I have just got one of these too (also disappointed with the plastic guage). Can you actually install these upside down like you have? The instructions state the 'bonnet should face upwards'. Its spring-loaded but perhaps less effective if upside down? I assume that's why it's at an angle.
That's an interesting question. My valve can be installed vertically and horizontally, and in the vertical position the bonnet would be facing down so I can't see how this could be the case, but when I locate the instructions I'll see if I can find any reference to this.
I got into a standard practice that I now only ever full bore butterfly or lever valves 👍👍👍✔️✔️✔️ RIP BALLO💩💩
Agree, they are a lot better solution, if the space is available 👍
Did it stop the hammer noise just by installing the pressure reducer?
Weirdly the hammer noise ended when I installed this new fill valve.. Pretty sure that was before I installed the pressure reducer but can't be sure. Best to put it where the main comes into the house so the entire house pressure is reduced. I have one of those now since we installed the underground boiler so the valve I installed in this video is superfluous.
That's a lot of pressure. What kind of hot water and heating system do you have?
I've got an S-plan ventral heating system powered by a Worcester Bosch oil fired boiler. Hot water comes from a hot water storage tank in the bathroom supplied by a water tank in the roof. Not ideal but just about works for a family of 4.
@@CharlieDIYte ahh, ok, balanced hot/ cold won't be a problem with the prv as it's already way out of balance already.
@@CharlieDIYte I have a similar "old school system" like your. Vented cold store in the loft, system boiler heating coil in the hot storage tank so only gravity hot water.
Would be very interested to hear views on best alternatives for a house with 3 beds, 2 baths and only 2 people most of the time.
Seen lots of mains pressure hot water but seems a lot to go wrong and can't fit yourself.
Looked at thermaflow from McDonald engineering - thermal store, reverses the hot coil cold tank setup for mains hot water and can feed central heating from boiler as now or use the stored water for a much faster response.
So when you get to pondering I would be interested in your or others views.
does your water supply provider not have a responsiblity to ensure your pressure is not too high?
I'd rather manage it myself Dave and will probably put a valve on the mains pipe into the house when I can access it. A mate at the other end of the village has literally no pressure, so I'm fortunate that where I'm situated it's high.
@@CharlieDIYte Charlie, I'm with you on this. A few years a go our water pressure was increased to help supply a care village upstream of us. it caused some leaking problems initally and we got the water supplier in to measure the pressure which they said what high but still "in Spec". I keep meaning to fit a whole house pressure reducer but I will have to source fittings for the old black plastic pipe we have.
is there an certain pressure recomended when u fit one of these valves
In my case I wanted to keep the pressure to within the tolerance of the fill valve. For a house in the UK it should be minimum 1 bar. So you'd want it 1-3 bar probably.
@@CharlieDIYte thanks
If you have this problem and are on a tight budget, you could install a shutoff valve if you don't already have one and just turn the valve so it's just open a little bit which slows the water down. Obviously it will take more time to fill but won't over pressure the inlet valve
I don't think that's right mate. I've read a few things about this and the general consensus is that doing what you say decreases the flow but not the pressure, so actually you can do more harm than good - similar to putting your finger on the end of a hose pipe.
Unfortunately this is incorrect Rhino , yes the shut off valve would slow flow , but the actual pressure remains the same ! Size of pipe determines volume /flow .. not pressure .. hope you don’t mind me saying .. Rosco
I've recently changed my fill valve for the toilet and within hours the the valve broke and is now slowly leaks into the cistern. I now have to turn off the water into the cistern to stop it from overfilling because the overflow pipe doesn't connect to anything. The landlord could fix it, but that will cost him money 😒
Sounds like you've got the same problem as me. 🙄
@@CharlieDIYte yup looks that way. The fill valves should be better quality
A shut off just before the toilet that is
According to the Honeywell installation instructions your PRV is installed upside down
I couldn't find anything in my instructions to say this. Remember, mine isn't a Honeywell (they've hived off Resideo).
@@CharlieDIYte Honeywell bought Resideo, valve appears identical. Section 3.1 item 1 of Resideo instructions says spring bonnet should be facing upwards. DiffIcult for you due to your ceiling, but that is what the book says. Sorry to bring bad news 🤦♂️ This could be to ensure debris does not gravitate into the cartridge. Maybe less of an issue if you have an upstream filter?
@@whitefields5595 You've misread the instructions. It actually says "In vertical installation position spring bonnet with vertical spring facing upwards" Mine isn't a vertical installation
@@CharlieDIYte .... I know, but your spring bonnet is still facing downwards to the same degree as if it was upside down in a vertical installation. As previous, i reckon it is to reduce probability of debris getting into the O rings in the piston assembly. I wish I'd never mentioned it now, only trying to help .....
press fit copper FTW
nothing wrong with what you have done, how about an " equilibrium float valves " I have worked on 1/2" - 4" diameter feed,, " equilibrium float valves " since 1972 never a problem, you can get them for toilet cisterns, etc. but not saying pressure reducing valves are not a good solution.
some people think that reducing the " flow rate " reduces the dynamic water pressure, but it does not.really..so definately a pressure reducing valve.
there is more than one way, to skin a cat.
by the way you would be better off, using Wras approved " Jet-Lube V2 Plus Jointing Compound " for compression fittings. for " potable water " and gas supplies
thanks for the video.
Thanks mate. Appreciate the advice. Yes, what I should probably do is install one where the water comes into the house, rather than on just this one point, but until I rip the kitchen out so I can get to the stop cock, it's not really practical.
Why couldn't you just turn down the isolator valve? Is a pressure reducing valve quieter?
I should have mentioned that. Turning the isolator doesn't actually reduce the pressure it just reduces the flow. A bit like putting your finger on a hose pipe, so it can actually do more harm than good.
@@CharlieDIYte But if the water expands again to fill the pipe on the outlet side isn't it more like a tap? Ie taps don't shoot water out at high pressure when you turn them down. Or if you pinch a hose at the end you get a jet but if you pinch it in the middle you get a dibble.
Actually I've worked it out - PRV's have a spring inside to do the equivalent of turning the tap to keep the output pressure always at the set level.
Turning the isolator valve down would reduce the flow whilst water was going through it only, but obviously the pressure would equalise once flow stopped. So when you flushed the loo the refill pressure would be as high as the mains pressure momentarily and then drop to whatever level the isolator valve allows.
Hope your loo keeps working this time :D
@@benhowellthomas . Yes, that's it Thanks for that. 👍