Part 2 - The most famous film developer Kodak D-76 also known as ID-11 / Vlog#56
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- This is the second and the final episode about the most famous film developer Kodak D-76 also known as Ilford ID-11. In this episode I've made enlargements from film that was developed in undiluted, stock solution of developer and in diluted developer 1+3.
PART 1 of this vlog is here: • The most famous film d...
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seriously good video, best photography channel on youtube
Great comparison with the D-76. The word you were looking for in between the bricks is called mortar. Thank you for your time and videos.
D-76/ID-11 diluted 1:1 at 68F for 11 minutes is a great compromise between stock and 1:3 and It's what I've used for 30+ years. GREAT VIDEOS!! 👍
your information never loses it's strength, 4 years later and just watched both parts. lots of valuable information, thank you
The best analogue photography channel, I found so far. Subscribed immediately after I watched the firs video I trapped on.
Thank you for doing such an amazing job with all tests and expansion!
I start to shoot the film again, always want to try to make a print, but all the time had a bug doubts about it, as I was thinking that it's to complicated. But bow, watching the final results of the all prints you did, I found less and less excuses not try to do it personally)
Thank you!
Great vlog. Thanks. I've been doing this since 1957, but have not had the patience to do the precise testing. You have. So I learn a lot from your work.
What a great explanation about developing with diluted developer.
Keep up this awesome work!
Greating from Hungary.
I used to shake and develop more to get more contrast because it was flat negatives. But now I prefer more tonalities. Video is awesome.
Absolutely amazing. As others say, nothing compares to this on RUclips, and that is the truth. You go further when one thinks you probably will stop. And you also manage to explain things crystal clear! Each video is like a surprise birthday present.
Yeah finally !!!
Happy New Year Borut :-)
So the question is: Why sacrifice tonality for sharpness? Is it not better to increase the negative size? So you get the sharpness and the tonality.
Of course. That's why I shoot 16x20" wet plate collodion glass negatives and print them as carbon prints.
Thank you for putting the effort in to make this vlog! I always develop 1:1 and agitate fast but my only reason was, until now, to make my chemicals go further.
You crack me up every video. My wife asks me why I am laughing watching photography youtuber. I tell her, "It is Topshit Photography!" She is confused, lol. What a great channel, I learn something new every time.
The core of topshit expression is that it confuses people and make them uncertain what you mean. That's half way to be awaken! Japanese Zen masters have koans, we have Topshit! May the Topshit be with you!
Finally another Topshit video...Dude, good to see you and keep the videos rolling! You look tired though, and a little preoccupied. Your videos are the best in the biz, no doubt. You should have many more subs. Thank you for getting me hooked on film.
Great video, Borut - enlarging by a high factor is a great way to see the differences!
Interesting! I wonder the stock solution is less sharp because of the high concentration of sodium sulfite dissolved the edges of the film grain making it less sharp. Sodium sulfite is a silver solvent.
Borut is right when he says: photography is magic!... Seeing that magic happening in front of you in the darkroom it's great!
Absolutely in love with your videos. I am, as a young photographer, consider them to be a great help in understanding complicated things. And they also help to spend less money for the experiments, which is especially important when photography isn't the thing that you make a living. I already started supporting you on Patreaon, perhaps not a much as you deserve, but hope it helps anyway and this comment will help some other comment-readers to contribute. Long live Topshit Photography!
I live in Montenegro and it's quite difficult to buy chemicals for the wet plate collodion process here. Is it easier to do it on Slovenija?
I have a wetplate friend from Belgrade who has a house in Montenegro and he can help you. Google Ugljesa Dapcevic. My favourite plain collodion is manufactured in Serbia.
Excellent set of videos! The dilution sharpness explanation makes total sense to me, it's like when you add too much cocoa powder to your boiled water and at some point it doesn't desolve in and you're left with the extra clumps. Let me know if that makes sense 😅
Excellent video Borut. I'd love to attend one of your workshops some day.
In a comparison another poster did on d76 the grain at 1:3 was more apparent but the micro constant and sharpness was much better than stock.
This was with fp4
Some TopShit right there. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much for another great video. Very interesting to see the differences you'll get with different dilutions. Personally I prefer (for 35mm Kodak Tri-X Film) D76 in 1:1 dilution.
I have found too that 1:1 is a good medium ground. I like my images contrasty but in this day and age large prints are a must so sharpness is important.
Darkroom extreme with good humour👍
😄😀, I think there we are a group of people seeing videos in circles, consuming anything smells as film’s photography.
Only left to see a comment from Nico or Azriel.
Ran across your channel while researching film developing. I am going to start doing it in my kitchen. It sounds like you're a fan of the 1:3 dilution. Thanks.
Great explanation. Thanks for the insight
If you came to Paris to do a workshop and I missed it, I'm jumping out of my window right now (but don't worry, I live on the ground floor). Excellent video!
I'm back in Paris in a week time. I'm looking for options and darkrooms to do a workshop. Email me on borutpeterlin@gmail.com
Really interested in seeing your test on the Pyro Cat HD, I have been looking at that myself.
Great Vlog
Haha not only you are informative. But also maybe the coolest dude on the tubes!
That's not what my mother think of me... ha, ha...
Thx for another nice video! Any tipps on how to adjust the sharpness on the 138 with the table so low an the knob so far above?
It's not the most comfortable, but it can be done. As I am a passionate in 19th Century photography processes, authentic way it would be to have a slave, but you know these days that's a bit harder to do.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography ;-)
Loved this video. Thanks for the comparison! I have yet to try developers other than Rodinal, Ilford DDX and Ilfosol 3 (hated Rodinal)
another very interesting and informative video. thanks for your work, much appreciated, and waiting for the next video. maybe you can share some thoughts from Paris too if you did some recording of your activity there :)
Shaking like maniac made my day! :D It is a contrast hunting and highlights saving! I did many negatives like this! Keep this up, I like it!
Fantastic! Thanks for sharing!
Hi Borut ! Thank you for sharing your topshit! very inspiring! I just have a question and hope you are not too isolated in your cabin and be able to answer it 😆. Like you, i love contrasty stuff and was wondering what is your process for let say a HP5 roll ? I would use ID11 1+3 20min with agitation 10sec every min, but it still not enough...would you share the receipe your talk about in this Vlog? Well hope your are doing well and I you come to France you will be welcome I know good places for kayaking and taking wild picture like you do, I'am sure you would enjoy it!
Just push it more. I used to develop in ID11, 1+3 for 24 min. I had an enlarger with diffusor, so I needed higher densities. Longer development, larger grain, keep that in mind too.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography merci !
Great video, personality, and style. Question, in the brick and mortar analogy (brick and gaps) why does the dissolved silver flow back into the gaps? What is causing the attraction?
My best guess it would be wet gelatin. Thx.
I have used stock,1:1 and 1:3 a few times. Grain gets very pronounced but "sharpness" gets extremely high. Maybe I should say acutance. Resolution is film/lens limited.
Another great one.
I was wondering when Part 2 would pop up. You put a lot of work into this one , and it was worth it.Well done. Thx brother.
Quality topshit content!
Music way too loud. I turn it up to hear you talking and then when you are done the music blasts. This is repeated throughout the video. It is vital that I hear what you are sharing. Love your generosity here however, please sync audio so there are minimal drastic audible changes.TOPSHIT RULES!
I hear you (pun intended), in this case I didn't had any energy or patience left, so I've skipped color grading and obviously also audio tunning. Thank you, topshit happens!
riggermm I thought I was the only one!
superb video, thanks
You are such a funny character you remind me of my best friend lol. Cool video. I noticed when you metered you just took a ambient reading and your negative was perfect. I’m so fixed on the zone system I’m going to give this a go.
Also I couldn’t find your eBay store on your site.
Keep up the good work bro 👍🏾
Yes, I've listed only now: www.ebay.com/itm/223344188228
Thank you!
General reading is for Generals, so welcome to the club!
Thanks for making these two videos! They were really good. A bit jumpy with the explanations but I like that. It's better than just droning on. It's like normal conversation talk so even if at first it seems harder to understand its easier to stick to it and listen until the end. :) the music was really too high this time though! And that psssch in the beginning almost made me turn it all off :p Stay great!
So talented!
great job, super informative!
"Where light hits the silver halide is formed." Really? Silver halide is already there in the entire emulsion, light forms no halide.
"Has a lot of the salt silver". Nope, that is colloidal silver.
You have to be more exact about what you say.
Great video!
Greetings from Poland. Master!
Thanks for the video. I have been lately shooting Fomapan 100 (35mm) developed in hc-110 (B) and I like the look of this combination but I found it a bit too much contrasty and some lack of detail in the highlights. I wonder if ID-11 could do a better job keeping the contrast low but as you said the dilution 1+3 could give me some issues with the highlights so I suppose I should work better with 1+1 or1+2. I liked the explanation you did about the silver with the 120 films. ;)
I've shot Foma 100 a few times, and my understanding is that Foma emulsions HD curves have a quite flat shoulder (meaning less tonal range in the highlights and easily blown outs whites). I love the look it gives though so I'm fine with it. Maybe some developers can mitigate that ? I've only developped it with Rodinal and XTol so far.
Develop your film a bit less. Development time has a pretty direct relation to contrast or highlight detail. If you lose shadows, you can increase your exposure of the film a bit to pull the film into a range that captures the range you want.
maybe you already know it, but there have been some recent progresses in developer technology, mainly due to the possibility to not use water for the stock solution and thus the possibility to avoid sodium sulphite at all. avoiding water and sulphite allowed also to use pyrogallol and pyrocatechin consistently and to exploit their tanning and staining abilities. I suggest you to read Jay De Fehr's articles about 510-pyro and hypercat. the latter being a super-sharp high acutance developer.
FX-1 is listed in "The film developing cookbook" by Anchel and Troop (a really precious and wonderful book), where you can also find all it's improved later modifications, always of the FX family.
one question: why do you think the result from the scanner in the previous vlog is exactly the opposite of what you obtain now with an enlarger?
Federico Muciaccia .... this dude should have done a developing collaboration maybe !!
Thank you! I will try it out soon. The scanner obviously hadn't scan it sharp. I should scan it in that scanning fluid. Sorry don't know the name, never done that, but I know the scanning method.
So macrocontrast of the whole image is increased and local highlights contrast i decreased with high dilution. Cool
What if you filter out the silvers from the old stock solution and you put them into the 1:3 diluted developer. Would it give more details at the highlights? So you may get as detailed highlights as with the stock solution but with great sharpness and acceptable grain. :D Would it work? :)
I don't think so.
You are a cool guy!
vigorous developing prevents lines and streaks . Too gentle and developer is not replenished evenly and defects show up where it is reduced. I find two inversions in 5 sec every 30 sec with 90 degree twist two times while inverting is perfect.
control contrast with time, not agitation which is always the same. Only one variable change at a time!
Also Andreas Feininger, who was a genius imo , said in his books to make test strips/ prints this way:
32 seconds first
Then 16 seconds
Then 8 seconds
Then 4 seconds
And then 4 seconds again.
What kind of Lamp were you using for analysing the prints? I'm curious. Oh, and great video ja!!
Thank you!
I am a little confused, wasn't the diluted 1+3 developer looking less sharp on your computer screen? And now when actually printed on paper, it's MORE sharp? Is that the takeaway of the video?
Yes, you are right. The scanning made it unsharp.
Sorry ... but I did not live in the hometown of Kodak, and hang out the Kodak chemists for diner every night on the weekends for nothing.... I’ve never heard this explanation reasoning before ...it’s much more about what the edge of a silver halide turns into based on the activity of the developing agent involved .. some tend to etch or eat away at the edges of the grain and are then misunderstood as fine grain ect... while others with more activity keep it more crystal like.....giving the allusion of sharpness and also contrast ect ...
I’m a fan of your channel 💯 but had to comment because in the age of you tubers developing their first rolls of film for the world to see ... when they don’t even know they should wear gloves ... they should have put some miles of film under their feet before thy talk about walking.... your going this the topshit way and keep up the good work ....
I’m going to like and like and like and forward this video to all my friends in Kodak town and maybe it will be more interesting then the tmax 100 talks we had to sit through hearing about Tgrain technology when we just wanted to be pyrol outlaws after all !! 🤪
agree. nice video but the sulfite explanation is not correct.
Do you have some experience with vitamin C developers? I tried Foma Excell (Czesky XTOL) on Fomapan 100 but i was not happy with sharpness. Maybe FX-55 is worth trying? What will you recommend for sharpness with Fomapan 100 ? Only please, no Rodinal... on 135mm the grain is over the moon!
Great video, that explanation makes perfect sense! Can you link your ebay shop in the description? I am having trouble finding it by just searching
I don't have one, only www.borutpeterlin.com/shop
That said, I should have one also on eBay! Thx for the tip!
when I've clicked on ebay's auction link, it showed: 8x10 Print Sexy Model Pin Up 1968 Nudes . Very funny! Anyway, you have made a really great work!
Ups, caught with a finger in marmalade...
You rock Topshit!😄👍👍👍
Your videos are epic mate!! Hello from London. I wondered have you used perceptol from ilford? If so how did it perform with films upto iso 100?
I love your panoramic shots.
Perceptol is perfect fine grain developer for correctly exposed films. It is more specialised developer and therefore the best choice for the specific needs like fine grain negatives.
Topshit Photography cheers for the response. Makes sense so when using slow speed film for say portrait where you want a smooth fine grain negative this would be useful
Did you use Fomapan ? The paper you use has a very low ISO . I print on Fomabrom Variant111 and my time on a 20 cm wide 20x25 cm print from a 6x7 negative is at most 4 to 7 seconds if use Fomapan , with T-max 100 or Fuji Acros it is only 3 to 5 seconds at 1:11 . I develop Fomapan 100 in 16 degree celcius 1+50 Rodinal for 12 minutes . I get than very easy to print negatives , good high lights and detailed shadows in one simple exposure . Friendly greetings from the Netherlands Peter .
I like this video, but the music is way too loud... Watching this on my TV with the 7.1 system made me mute the tone
Thanks! 😉👍
Man, you're awesome
I know, I was telling that to my ex wife all the time, but she wouldn't listen!!!
Subscribed! Nice to meet you!
So, to summarise - shall 1:1 dilution be the perfect option?A compromise between sharpness and tonality? However what a great film!
Remember, it's more like cooking, then science.
I wonder if cutting back development time by 10% on the 1:3 would help with the highlights or if it would effect the midtones too much
My intention is to reduce the development from 17 to 14 minutes. I believe it will still have all the information in shadows, but highlights will not have the density.
For this enlarger that is more suitable.
@Borut Peterlin have you tried D76H? No hydroquinone but borax instead and a bit more metol? I read that is more "ecologic" but I believe the results are different....
Borax is there just to activate hidroquinone, if I remember correctly. The results will be very different. Metol is very soft developer.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography thanks for your reply! Keep going on shooting those lovely wet plates!
Nisem sicer čisto zastopo to z železom in mortom. Rabim čas. Drugače pa zelo lepi printi!
have u tried using rodinal before bourt
Ha, I must have, as a student, but I didn't in an analytical way. I will do so.
the agfa rodinal has taken over now since 2012 from memory look forward to your next video bourt
Thank you very much for this work of comparison. Actually I use to use D-76 but I dilute it 1+1 because it's what they wrote on the bag. Why did you choose a 1+3 dilution and not 1+1 (or 1+2 ; 1+5 ; or else!)? Strange question, isn't it? Top Shit Question !!!! ;-)
1+3 is maximum dilution recommended by Kodak. It is written on the bag, at least the one that I have.
Oh OK ! Next time I'll try 1+3, thanks to you !!!! ;-)
@@karwai2673 just have in mind that highlights might be overblown, so don't overdevelop. This film was developed in solution 1+3 for 17 minutes. I reckon 15 or even 14 would be better, less contrasty with less density on highlights
I usually prefer more contrasty pictures but your advices are very precious. And by the way, what film did you use? I couldn't see well on the video and I think you don't mention it.
More photography videos need references to Police Squad
I thought that surely somebody will noticed it.
Don't call me Surely!
No TV show/movie has ever made me laugh more than those 6 episodes.
@@ronen_khazin as a kid, we were watching Police Squad and since we didn't had a video recorder at the time, I was recording it with a tape recorder and it was very effective and enjoyable. I guess that's why I still remember most of the jokes.
I only saw it for the first time a few years ago on RUclips and I laughed so hard I nearly fell out of my chair and hurt myself. In fact, I did hurt myself laughing. I once met Leslie Nielsen, about 9 months before he passed away. Really, really funny guy.
It's not elemental Ag, it's more probably silver bromide. Elemental Ag is black.
If you're referring to the free silver in the developer, those particles are black and they are silver particles. I've learned these information from the Darkroom Cookbook.
I'm confused by your methodology. Shouldn't you do 'straight' prints without dodging & burning to compare tonality? Also, why not use Kodak packaged D76 unless you are modifying the formula?
Because in that way it's always fresh. And in that way you can modify it if you please. Like Diana Arbus, skipped the hidroquinone, because her flash pictures were too harsh and metol doesn't have the strength to blow up the highlights. Just an example.
Thank you for share your experience. and say hallo to your dog. It's name?
He's name is Mike, but it should be Rex. All German Shepherds should be called Rex. I've saved Mike from an unresposible owner when he was 2 years old, so that's why he's not called Rex. I had three German Shepherds before, they were all called Rex, of course.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography He is a very beatifull dog. Congratulation, He remember me my one, he was called Artú. German sheperd forewer
If i could give you 10 likes i would have done it just for all the tests and prints you made, it must have taken a huge amount of time
Why not try 1+1 and 1+2 the next time as an experiment.
No I will not, but I might split ingredients of the developer in two and develop it in two baths. First soaked it in developer agents (metol and hidroqinon) then second bath with sodium sulphide and borax. That might be interesting and good experiment.
The explanation you gave for the loss in sharpness is quite correct. If you want a more scientific explanation here it comes:
Sodium sulphite acts as a mild fixer as shown in this equation
2AgBr + Na2SO3 Ag2SO3 + 2NaBr
The more concentrated your sodium sulphite is the more the equilibrium is shifted towards Ag2SO3. This silver sulphite gets reduced by the developer and deposits elemental silver in the film, which causes the haziness.
Good video.
Oh, thank you! I didn't know that! So cool to get a feedback and learn from it!
Man teach me
music to high
i dont ever subscribe to anyone shi#t but this i will.
^d, great and luck
That intro 😂😂😂😂😂
Make a new one! I'm finishing with editing and I need a new intro! Record it on phone and send it to borutpeterlin@gmail.com Whatever language is OK, just I need a translation in English.
This video was made before Borut Peterlin become rich & famous and something else that you come up. It has to be short though.
I'd love to develop all those films for you! Just pay food and rent and I'll be happy.
Sincerely, a starving student
Just let me know when do you want to come and for how long.
Forgive me but I prefer stock solution results :)
You are forgiven as long as you've subscribed ;-)
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography How could I not , Borut, we are brothers, I am a slav in America, you are slav in Slovenia, sharing passion in светопись :)
You do stand out, keep up your workflow :) Oh and by the way, I will not Like your video because the counter is stopped at 666 and I am not the one pushing luck :D