I hope this content was valuable to you. I've put a ton of links and discounts in the description for you also. I look forward to hearing what you think and if you have any tips to share on this topic? cheers J
Try putting down the varnish before you remove the negatives, then do the acrylic pen or dry brush method. This way, you don't get any of the varnish on the wood. Just a thought.
Thanks for the reply, it’s always useful to get any tips and advice, I’m 69 and still consider every day to be a school day, I’m constantly learning, my capacity head been reduced since I had a stroke but I will persevere with it, can you explain what gotbe is ! Just a thought while I was watching your video about your signs what a about using a airbrush with a larger pot, it would be more controllable than a rattle can .
@@garystevenson1356 an air brush would have been better but for such a small jobs it's a lot of work to clean and set up. This is chatgbt chat.openai.com/ It's an Ai platform that is all the rage at the moment and is a very useful tool for finding information. I use it for coding and complex mathematics that are too much for my brain to handle. I asked it to calculate how much weight is needed to increase the pressure of a large gym ball to 3psi and it immediately gave me the working calculations and estimated it to be 40kg. Saves me a lot of time. All the very best. Cheers J
I have never owned a laser cutter and have no practical reason for being here but I'm sick and this is 22 minutes of a surprisingly entertaining combination of technology and woodworking
We are absolutely very impressed and entertained with your site. Thank you. Very knowledgeable and we are now fans. Many Blessings,, SpiritWolf and Willowsong.
The process overview and analysis was great, the business case breakdown, well, it was gold. Been watching you a while now and I love your attitude and motives, you're a bloke after my own heart. Greetings from Noisey Land.
Genuinely thankful for the lengths you've just gone to to test these different methods. I don't make signage, I make laser cut model kits, but I wanted to add a comment for the algorithm and say thank you.
I'd never seen these machines until I came across one of your videos last week and now I want one. Really informative video and highly enjoyable, thanks.
A good tape and putting the clear coat before you tape off actually helps a whole whole hole wole lot. I got some really good signs with clear coating before I tape and using painter's tape. Other things like paint and tape application to be considered.
I've done this with my CO2 laser, I also have a vinyl cutting machine, the removal of the negative space would go a lot easier with a weeding tool, it can stab down into the tape whisking it right away.
I've been using a very similar technique for some commissions recently. Instead of just scoring the masking design I score and engrave. Partially because the designs are often too tiny and detailed to peel tape off without things going wrong, and partially for the effect, it looks nice being recessed slightly. (And arguably less easy to damage) Tip for preventing bleed when masking, if you're masking something that already has been painted, apply a layer of that paint first after you cut your masks. Any bleed will be in the same colour and thus invisible, and will seal the gaps. I just use good old cheap acrylic paint, but I've also used the special glue stuff you use for gold leaf and applied gold leaf into the engraved areas.
Another great video. I loved the plasma table vid and I'm assembling a table using v-slot extrusions. Will take some time yet as I'm learning as I go. But vids like this help tremendously in knowing what to look for. Your testing really helps cut back on how much other have to do when it comes to finding the answers to these questions. Thanks again and I look forward to seeing more.
Sanding the wood to a very fine grit before starting will give you much better results because the sanding closes the pores of the wood and also allows the tape to lay flatter......
Love this video! Struggling to find 'the right' laser cutter/engraver - and at a price my wife won't kill me for. I keep struggling between C02 and diode...
Hello. Beautiful press! Can I ask if you have another video of how the press works and if the structure is strong enough not to twist or bend please? Thank you for answer
First thought was to use a roller to help the tape make better contact with the timber, but then I read all the comments and realised I know nothing.🤣Thanks for sharing the method J and thanks also to everyone else for offering their thoughts, suggestions and comments to help the rest of use achieve even better results. 👍👍👍
You're welcome. I know nothing either apparently. I've got a lot to learn to get it working better. But I'm happy so far especially how cost effective it is. Cheers J
When you spray, increase the distance and use many light coats. That will mean the paint is almost dry before it lands, so less likely to bleed into into the grain under the tape. As another reply said, sand it smoother but also roll the tape down so there are less chances of gaps for the paint to bleed under/into.
Did you count the time it took to collect the wood and prepare the wood first, like sanding or whatever it makes it nice and clear before even putting the tape on it?
First lol! Bringing it back... Great video, my youngest son and I are building a PrintNC (open source) CNC machine here at home but I always love watching your videos.
Hey Joshua, that's my set up exactly what you have there. Any chance of you doing a video on stitching using lightburn, as in engrave an oversized piece of wood . Keep up the brilliant vids, always a cut above the rest when it comes to innovative ideas and cost effective saving.👌
It has been great watching you do the review. I like how you explain everything, so clearly. I just ordered a 20W D1 Pro and can see that I have lots to learn. The tip about cable management, is golden, as is the duct tape idea. Thank you from Winnipeg, Canada 🇨🇦 🙂
Thank you. It's a great machine otherwise. I hope they bring out a new cable system that can be added to the current model. All the very best. Cheers J
Thanks again for the dialogue. I will probably wish in 4 months, that I had bought the 40w machine, but dollars came into the equation. For now, I will try to get good and hopefully make a bit of money. What are your thoughts on lightburn?
@@danielmoroz5970 I really rate lightburn, there is a lot that you can do on it including design work. I was reluctant to pay for it but now that I used it I wouldn't use anything else. 20w machines are still great for a lot of projects. 40w really does up the efficiency of cutting however. The key to making money is the product, make sure it's something original, valuable and limited competition. For example there are a lot of people doing custom cutting boards selling for cheap but there are not many people selling road side trust box's with QR code PayPal tags. Cheers J
You're great to speak with. Thanks for your support and honesty. I haven't priced out lightburn yet. It it going to kill me? I'm guessing a few hundred Canadian dollars?
Having done this for a number of years on model aircraft (rc), I do it completely different (for different reasons - getting aircraft parts under the laser is difficult 😂 ).I use a sheet of regular printer paper, spray the back with re-positionable spray (adhesive on postit notes). Make sure that there are no dropouts on your graphic - if so, add 0.5mm tabs before lasering to stop them falling out. Apply stencil to surface, trim out the tabs, then airbrush lightly. As other folks have said, the starting surface is key - if it's well prepped, you won't get the bleeding issues ( 😂 ). Just as an aside to your method, prep the surface, spray with lacquer, dry, tape up, laser, weed, spray again with same lacquer, leave tack dry then finish spray with final colour. Final peel when wet or tacky stops paint chipping. And I'm sure there are at least another 90 methods 😂😂😂. Mod podge tends to be a wee bit ruff in the fine finish dept, but a man on a galloping horse won't see it at your front door 😂 Creepily, I've now got the same laser as you with extensions , the cable handling isn't wonderful - the bed being in portrait mode in LB or XCS isnt great either - but the laser is excellent (extended honeycomb bed is worth the purchase tho).
Hi Josh keep these coming mate I love your channel. I too have the d1 pro 20w and I’ve been making signs for a while just for a little treat money and to fund materials , I use a low tack masking tape as used in the sign industry ( transfer tape) and once the engraving is done I then spray with an airbrush a light coat of acrylic matt varnish to seal the wood and then light coats of paint after that , then when unmasking I coat in a 2k clear coat . Comes up a treat.
I am very I h a “do-er” but unfortunately I’m 69 years old and what is second nature to you is way over my head, I am not a luddite but born too early to take advantage of modern technology I wish I could learn more about g codes and programs etc. Thanks for your videos they are very illuminating and informative
Thank you but none of it is second nature to me either. I've just put time and persistence into learning it. I'm not as clever as people make out, I'm just persistent at making many mistakes before finding success. If you have time you can learn pretty much anything. As a modern tip, you can use Chatgbt to teach you coding or just get it to write the code for you once you explain to it what you want. Cheers J
When I'm infilling chopping boards I clearcoat first and use medium tack application tape, then spray. Mod Podge is pretty much just pva but seems to have some retardent in it. I use pva and it's cured overnight..
Think I'd run a roller over the tape to ensure it's all well seated all over, and maybe give the wood a quick sand as the bleeding looks to be the grain ? As for spraying, with a can it's expensive and wasteful, maybe an airbrush would be more flexible?
I do this sort of stuff a lot using my CO2 80 watt laser. Personally I use the thicknesser then sand to 320 grit dust throughly and with a porous timber like pine seal with satin spray can, which dries in minutes. Since you are only using enough power to cut through the tape burning the sealant wont be a problem. To cut down on the time etching have each word as a different layer. The 9 hrs is because it is doing the whole board at once. Good video should get some off the fence and into it.
I have carved lettering with a cnc router and had the same bleeding problem. My solution is to shellac the board, (fast drying), when dry apply masking tape (I use blue), then route lettering, then apply shellac to routed surfaces let dry, and when dry I apply color coat of paint, and remove the masking tape when the paint is tacky or dry. I have had good results with this even on mdf which like a sponge.
Since you don't like rattle cans, perhaps an air brush would be better suited for your purposes. You can get different nozzles to control the size of the spray, though you may need to water down your paints a little in order to flow through the brush.
Excellent process and results. Using a power planar or thicknesser should give you a very smooth finish to start with so I'm wondering if a coat a clear shellac to seal and provide a even more uniform surface would help with the bleeding. Maybe the less expensive masking tape could be used. Great things to think about. Thanks very much.
I'd try a tape that sticks less to the timber. Then use a spray on sealer to prevent bleeding and paint soaking into fibers. The sealer will crack when taking off the tape, so a fine layer is all you would want, to stop paint going into or under the tape. The same applies to the paint when ripping off the tape. I suppose after painting if the coat is not heavy enough to run off the sealer, you can take the tape off as the paint is wet or still soft, so you don't rip off paint with the tape. The only issue with using a sealer before applying paint, is that it won't have a chance to bleed into the timber fibers, and so if you scratch the surface, you will see it very easily due to the light colour under a thin layer of paint. But You can also seal the whole thing a few times to build up at least some protection. Nice idea overall.
I wonder if you coated the entire board in polyurethane (let cure)...put on the tape, then lettered acrylic paint, then coat again with polyurethane again? Seal, paint, seal?
Could you not cut the stencil out of a sheet of cardboard to replace the frog tape? Or do you think the stencil would lft too much. Also I wonder what vinyl would look like in comparison.
Than less you upcycle your old cardboard I would say the frog tape is cheaper. The issue with vinyl is the toxic gases released and should be cnc cut rather than vaporised by a laser. Cheers J
Still in progress. I've been working on new designs from the feedback of the video. Although it looks like not many are interested in it compared to my other projects and certainly not many people have entered the raffle to help fund it so progress may be slow. Cheers J
Thank you. at the moment just straight kerocene as I can get it for £0.60 per litre. the top tank is for a veg oil mix but I don't have it on long enough yet to use it. cheers J
Essentially there isn't enough room for the cable in the home position. To create more space I moved the sensor trigger bracket over by one bolt hole which gives an extra 8mm gap. It means the bracket is only held on with one bolt but you could drill and tap a new hole. I also cable tied the cable as close as I could get it to the frame to minimise push back also. Cheers J
Very interesting, the bleeding can be attributable to the type of wood used. Pine has a hard and soft grain depicted by the darker - harder and the softer - lighter, which tends to hollow. Most of the bleeding took place on the softer grain, which makes sense after planing. Using a wallpaper seam roller after the laser cutter could reduce some of the bleeding. The Frogtape is really good. An enjoyable post, very much appreciated 👍
Thank you so much. You're right I bet different woods will have a varied result. I think the use of a sealing agent is definitely something to take the guess work away. Cheers J
I have seen others successfully replace mod podge with diluted PVA glue in some applications. It would be interesting to see if that could be an alternative here as well to maybe save a few cents and not having to buy mod podge 😊
That's because mod podge IS PVA glue diluted with water (I have seen ratios from 1/4 to 1/2 cup water to 1 cup glue) with a bit of water-based acrylic varnish added for gloss finish.
This is maybe a naive suggestion, but would a finish like boiled linseed oil give a resist for the staining? All my boiled linseed oil projects have dried with a non oily finish
Enjoyed viewing the video. The summary at the end especially. You handled the software so efficiently, but was wondering how difficult it was to learn?
Great video as usual thanks. Love the content but even more so than the content itself possibly the fact that you try to genuinely encourage people to get going themselves and do this sort of thing. I dream of one day being able to make my living from making things for people, so I love hearing that encouragement.
Thank you so much. Nothing brings more satisfaction than physically holding and seeing the hard work of your hand. Getting it to pay is the icing on the cake. Cheers J
I like your overall process and thinking through the problems. I think some of the issue was with the type of wood you chose to use as test materials. It looked like pine which is veiny and will tend to bleed easier. You said in the beginning of the video you have some reclaimed wood flooring with some nice tight grain to it. I think that may resist the urge to bleed as much. I just got my laser not too long ago and I'm still getting used to it and have to decide if the extension is worth it or adding another upgraded laser with a longer bed. Jury is still out. Keep up the good work.
I've had excellent results stencilling using a 12v compressor nail / cake airbrush kit (Ebay). With adjustment, the paint can be applied almost dry with very little waste and can be used for arty effects like rusting and verdigris. ..oo00( Mmmm..rusty cake )
Couldn't you varnish the whole surface, wait for it to harden, then tape, cut the tape with the laser, paint the words and then a final sealing layer of varnish?
Slightly different variables, But I've had good success with PVA glue (cheap skate version of mod poge) painting a thin layer to wood and then printing to another thin layer on plastic and sandwich PVA layer together. Varnish over to protect the finish. I use it to add photos to some carpentry projects. Not sure mog podge would ever survive outdoors.
use vector mode, decrease resolution, set filling speed 2x of border speed, it shouldn't take more than 30 minutes, plus you'll have nice, burned effect on the sign.
@@FranklyWry I'm not sure, it depends on the chemical composition and that's hard to find out however vinyl generally contains chlorine which is harmful as a gas. Cheers J
That crappy pine board is so soft it requires more thorough prep than you would expect. Tight grain hardwood will yield superior results. Your surface should be considerably closer to dead flat than what I saw after you “planed”. The lacquer or shellac seal coat before and after cutting will also give you superior results especially if you quickly roll the tape before you spray the second coat of sealer.
It very much depends on the client. Something is only worth what some one is prepared to pay. However I'm always amazed what people do spend their money on. Cheers J
Yeah, I guess it's funny like that. We manufacture hot sauce and did a year-long barrel aged sauce which we sold for $30AUD (about £15.50) and was surprised how many people bought without flinching.
@@joshuadelisle brilliant I’m learning more and more about laser printing from you than ever before. So I’ll look forward to seeing them. Thank you. 👍👍👍
@@1MartinWaite Thank you. I've got a new enclosed diode laser from xTool and the P2 co2 laser to test out soon. Also I've got more projects to build with the longer B1 40w and Atezr 36w. I've just designed a foot pedal bench grinder to cut out and I'm going to build a series of other hand crank mechanisms also. Cheers J
Honestly, just use a vinyl cutter. They are cheap, efficient and when cut with pro-quality film, even reds will last outdoors for over five years. I can make those signs in less than five minutes once the blanks are ready- and they're nice and durable. If you can use a laser cutter, vinyl cutters are even easier. Try it.
@joshuadelisle there are two types. The cheaper "Original" is between regular masking tape and frogtape, but the blue "Sharp Edge" has a polyester component that gives a more even adhesive which really reduces bleeding.
@joshuadelisle Leave the masking on the text and remove around it...then sandblast!!! This IMHO is probably one of my favorite techniques and visually attractive!!!
Have you tried sealing the wood in its entirety first.. then mask, cut with laser and then spray.. brush.. stipple or whatever else floats your boat. By sealing the entire face of the wood first should stop the bleed.
I have. But where the laser pieces through the coating is where it will raw wood that absorbs the paint. That's why you want to seal after engraving. Cheers J
The problem is they're expensive and only suited to water based paints. You'll get a better effect using the correct paint with the right brush for sure. Cheers J
yes it will move towards the home location but it is not receiving messages from the limit sensors so it runs into the side and grinds on both x and y unless I'm past 436 then it stops half way but still grinds on x does that make sense the way I explained it @@joshuadelisle
After having watched/ffwd’d to the end, I have to take umbrage with your figures. You gave no figures for the amount of time it would take to get the commissions. Sitting at farmers markets, fairs, etc will turn that 600% down to 50% pretty easily. There’s enough bait and clip videos out there. “Don’t recommend this channel” for me.
Those points you made are relative and my points are only potential. There is no copy and paste scheme to selling custom work and is completely dependent on your own creativity, ingenuity and market understanding. I made the point to say the costs are based only on what I showed, an in depth costing is much deeper subject than what a simple laser tool review can accommodate. Cheers J
I'm a little late to the party... using a clear water base finish will cause the frog tape to swell and seal the adhesive to the wood preventing the colored paint from bleeding. Basically the same as painting the lettered area with a coat of paint that is the same as the field(as previously mentioned by someone else) This has been the norm for painters for years that do this for a living, even before Frog Tape was invented.
I hope this content was valuable to you. I've put a ton of links and discounts in the description for you also. I look forward to hearing what you think and if you have any tips to share on this topic? cheers J
Try putting down the varnish before you remove the negatives, then do the acrylic pen or dry brush method. This way, you don't get any of the varnish on the wood. Just a thought.
Thanks for the reply, it’s always useful to get any tips and advice, I’m 69 and still consider every day to be a school day, I’m constantly learning, my capacity head been reduced since I had a stroke but I will persevere with it, can you explain what gotbe is ! Just a thought while I was watching your video about your signs what a about using a airbrush with a larger pot, it would be more controllable than a rattle can .
@@garystevenson1356 an air brush would have been better but for such a small jobs it's a lot of work to clean and set up. This is chatgbt chat.openai.com/
It's an Ai platform that is all the rage at the moment and is a very useful tool for finding information. I use it for coding and complex mathematics that are too much for my brain to handle. I asked it to calculate how much weight is needed to increase the pressure of a large gym ball to 3psi and it immediately gave me the working calculations and estimated it to be 40kg. Saves me a lot of time. All the very best. Cheers J
I have never owned a laser cutter and have no practical reason for being here but I'm sick and this is 22 minutes of a surprisingly entertaining combination of technology and woodworking
Thank you. I pray you feel better soon. Cheers J
We are absolutely very impressed and entertained with your site. Thank you. Very knowledgeable and we are now fans. Many Blessings,, SpiritWolf and Willowsong.
Thank you so much. Cheers J
Best explanation and tests in practical use of a laser ive seen on RUclips...well done sir
Thank you so much, lots more to come. cheers J
Shellac is your friend, seals the wood and stops paint bleed. Two coats, let dry, then mask, laser, paint, remove mask and light sand. 👍
Thank you. Cheers J
The process overview and analysis was great, the business case breakdown, well, it was gold. Been watching you a while now and I love your attitude and motives, you're a bloke after my own heart. Greetings from Noisey Land.
Thank you so much. I'm glad it was helpful. Cheers J
Genuinely thankful for the lengths you've just gone to to test these different methods. I don't make signage, I make laser cut model kits, but I wanted to add a comment for the algorithm and say thank you.
Thank you so much. I've got kits of my own to show soon. Cheers J
I'd never seen these machines until I came across one of your videos last week and now I want one. Really informative video and highly enjoyable, thanks.
Thank you so much. I've got lots more to share soon. Cheers J
A good tape and putting the clear coat before you tape off actually helps a whole whole hole wole lot. I got some really good signs with clear coating before I tape and using painter's tape. Other things like paint and tape application to be considered.
Thank you. Cheers J
Definitely. I use a rattle can of lacquer to prep wood before masking. Stops the bleed.
love the video ! I just use sanding sealer let it dry befor I put the tape on then it stops it bleeding under the tape !!
Nice. Thank you for the tip. Cheers J
I've done this with my CO2 laser, I also have a vinyl cutting machine, the removal of the negative space would go a lot easier with a weeding tool, it can stab down into the tape whisking it right away.
I've been using a very similar technique for some commissions recently. Instead of just scoring the masking design I score and engrave. Partially because the designs are often too tiny and detailed to peel tape off without things going wrong, and partially for the effect, it looks nice being recessed slightly. (And arguably less easy to damage)
Tip for preventing bleed when masking, if you're masking something that already has been painted, apply a layer of that paint first after you cut your masks. Any bleed will be in the same colour and thus invisible, and will seal the gaps. I just use good old cheap acrylic paint, but I've also used the special glue stuff you use for gold leaf and applied gold leaf into the engraved areas.
Good tip. cheers J
Thank you for taking the time to test and record the results. It'll be a handy tool for the brain-toolbox 😊
Thank you. Cheers J
Try sealing the wood before placing the tape on the wood.
It's always nice you're honest about pricing, sadly we know most aren't and would do the 9hr engrave and still only charge a fraction of that!
That is a real issue unfortunately. Cheers J
Another great video. I loved the plasma table vid and I'm assembling a table using v-slot extrusions. Will take some time yet as I'm learning as I go. But vids like this help tremendously in knowing what to look for. Your testing really helps cut back on how much other have to do when it comes to finding the answers to these questions. Thanks again and I look forward to seeing more.
Thank you so much. I'm really glad it's helpful. Cheers J
Sanding the wood to a very fine grit before starting will give you much better results because the sanding closes the pores of the wood and also allows the tape to lay flatter......
Good tip. Cheers J
Love this video! Struggling to find 'the right' laser cutter/engraver - and at a price my wife won't kill me for. I keep struggling between C02 and diode...
Co2 is good for clear acrylic and for power over 100w. But diodes especially 40w can cut thicker and can engrave stainless very well. Cheers J
Hello. Beautiful press! Can I ask if you have another video of how the press works and if the structure is strong enough not to twist or bend please? Thank you for answer
instead of mod podge you can use any wood glue white or yellow if you're coloring it
Could also after engraving. Place powder coating powder over the letter and do a low power fill burn over the letters to melt the powder in.
It's an idea worth trying. Cheers J
Great video such a clear descripton thank you.
First thought was to use a roller to help the tape make better contact with the timber, but then I read all the comments and realised I know nothing.🤣Thanks for sharing the method J and thanks also to everyone else for offering their thoughts, suggestions and comments to help the rest of use achieve even better results. 👍👍👍
You're welcome. I know nothing either apparently. I've got a lot to learn to get it working better. But I'm happy so far especially how cost effective it is. Cheers J
When you spray, increase the distance and use many light coats. That will mean the paint is almost dry before it lands, so less likely to bleed into into the grain under the tape. As another reply said, sand it smoother but also roll the tape down so there are less chances of gaps for the paint to bleed under/into.
Thank you. Yes a fine mist in light layers worked a treat but using a good sealant made the process very effective too. Cheers J
Did you count the time it took to collect the wood and prepare the wood first, like sanding or whatever it makes it nice and clear before even putting the tape on it?
This is so GOOD, Jushua! 👍👍
Thank you so much. cheers J
Just can't wait to see more! 🤩@@joshuadelisle
8:21 Yup, got me. Tea everywhere.😐
Lol
First lol! Bringing it back... Great video, my youngest son and I are building a PrintNC (open source) CNC machine here at home but I always love watching your videos.
Well done. cheers J
Perhaps rolling over the lasered tape before you paint might help.
Could use a water based exterior paint. Maybe this would reduce the need for Mod podge? Unfortunately I don’t have a laser to try it out.
That would work. Cheers J
Thanks for the top content. I'm definitely interested in adding a Lazer to my set up and your content is helping to inform my choices
Thank you. Yep lots more to come. Cheers J
Hey Joshua, that's my set up exactly what you have there. Any chance of you doing a video on stitching using lightburn, as in engrave an oversized piece of wood . Keep up the brilliant vids, always a cut above the rest when it comes to innovative ideas and cost effective saving.👌
Definitely. I want to do a full table with a intricate design. Will have to be 'spliced' by making reference marks. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Excellent, I have my eye on producing an oversized piece of Mandala art.
It has been great watching you do the review. I like how you explain everything, so clearly. I just ordered a 20W D1 Pro and can see that I have lots to learn. The tip about cable management, is golden, as is the duct tape idea. Thank you from Winnipeg, Canada 🇨🇦 🙂
Thank you. It's a great machine otherwise. I hope they bring out a new cable system that can be added to the current model. All the very best. Cheers J
Thanks again for the dialogue. I will probably wish in 4 months, that I had bought the 40w machine, but dollars came into the equation. For now, I will try to get good and hopefully make a bit of money. What are your thoughts on lightburn?
@@danielmoroz5970 I really rate lightburn, there is a lot that you can do on it including design work. I was reluctant to pay for it but now that I used it I wouldn't use anything else. 20w machines are still great for a lot of projects. 40w really does up the efficiency of cutting however. The key to making money is the product, make sure it's something original, valuable and limited competition. For example there are a lot of people doing custom cutting boards selling for cheap but there are not many people selling road side trust box's with QR code PayPal tags. Cheers J
You're great to speak with. Thanks for your support and honesty. I haven't priced out lightburn yet. It it going to kill me? I'm guessing a few hundred Canadian dollars?
@@danielmoroz5970 Thank you. it was £50 for me. cheers J
Having done this for a number of years on model aircraft (rc), I do it completely different (for different reasons - getting aircraft parts under the laser is difficult 😂 ).I use a sheet of regular printer paper, spray the back with re-positionable spray (adhesive on postit notes). Make sure that there are no dropouts on your graphic - if so, add 0.5mm tabs before lasering to stop them falling out. Apply stencil to surface, trim out the tabs, then airbrush lightly. As other folks have said, the starting surface is key - if it's well prepped, you won't get the bleeding issues ( 😂 ). Just as an aside to your method, prep the surface, spray with lacquer, dry, tape up, laser, weed, spray again with same lacquer, leave tack dry then finish spray with final colour. Final peel when wet or tacky stops paint chipping. And I'm sure there are at least another 90 methods 😂😂😂. Mod podge tends to be a wee bit ruff in the fine finish dept, but a man on a galloping horse won't see it at your front door 😂 Creepily, I've now got the same laser as you with extensions , the cable handling isn't wonderful - the bed being in portrait mode in LB or XCS isnt great either - but the laser is excellent (extended honeycomb bed is worth the purchase tho).
Good tips. Cheers J
I like the Mod Podge and the Acrylic Marker
Thank you. It works well. Cheers J
Hi Josh keep these coming mate I love your channel. I too have the d1 pro 20w and I’ve been making signs for a while just for a little treat money and to fund materials , I use a low tack masking tape as used in the sign industry ( transfer tape) and once the engraving is done I then spray with an airbrush a light coat of acrylic matt varnish to seal the wood and then light coats of paint after that , then when unmasking I coat in a 2k clear coat . Comes up a treat.
Thank you. Great tip. Cheers J
I am very I h a “do-er” but unfortunately I’m 69 years old and what is second nature to you is way over my head, I am not a luddite but born too early to take advantage of modern technology I wish I could learn more about g codes and programs etc. Thanks for your videos they are very illuminating and informative
Thank you but none of it is second nature to me either. I've just put time and persistence into learning it. I'm not as clever as people make out, I'm just persistent at making many mistakes before finding success. If you have time you can learn pretty much anything. As a modern tip, you can use Chatgbt to teach you coding or just get it to write the code for you once you explain to it what you want. Cheers J
Fabulous video for a newbie...I'm going to try this with my 10w M1
That would work great on a 10w. Cheers J
When I'm infilling chopping boards I clearcoat first and use medium tack application tape, then spray. Mod Podge is pretty much just pva but seems to have some retardent in it. I use pva and it's cured overnight..
Think I'd run a roller over the tape to ensure it's all well seated all over, and maybe give the wood a quick sand as the bleeding looks to be the grain ? As for spraying, with a can it's expensive and wasteful, maybe an airbrush would be more flexible?
I do this sort of stuff a lot using my CO2 80 watt laser. Personally I use the thicknesser then sand to 320 grit
dust throughly and with a porous timber like pine seal with satin spray can, which dries in minutes.
Since you are only using enough power to cut through the tape burning the sealant wont be a problem.
To cut down on the time etching have each word as a different layer. The 9 hrs is because it is doing the whole board at once. Good video should get some off the fence and into it.
Thank you. Excellent tips. Cheers J
I have carved lettering with a cnc router and had the same bleeding problem. My solution is to shellac the board, (fast drying), when dry apply masking tape (I use blue), then route lettering, then apply shellac to routed surfaces let dry, and when dry I apply color coat of paint, and remove the masking tape when the paint is tacky or dry. I have had good results with this even on mdf which like a sponge.
Great tip. Cheers J
Since you don't like rattle cans, perhaps an air brush would be better suited for your purposes. You can get different nozzles to control the size of the spray, though you may need to water down your paints a little in order to flow through the brush.
Yes an air brush is a much better option for conserving paint and getting finer light layers. Cheers J
sanding sealer first, then tape.
Excellent process and results. Using a power planar or thicknesser should give you a very smooth finish to start with so I'm wondering if a coat a clear shellac to seal and provide a even more uniform surface would help with the bleeding. Maybe the less expensive masking tape could be used. Great things to think about. Thanks very much.
Thank you. I'll test out shellac and any others people suggest. Cheers J
I'd try a tape that sticks less to the timber. Then use a spray on sealer to prevent bleeding and paint soaking into fibers.
The sealer will crack when taking off the tape, so a fine layer is all you would want, to stop paint going into or under the tape.
The same applies to the paint when ripping off the tape.
I suppose after painting if the coat is not heavy enough to run off the sealer, you can take the tape off as the paint is wet or still soft, so you don't rip off paint with the tape.
The only issue with using a sealer before applying paint, is that it won't have a chance to bleed into the timber fibers, and so if you scratch the surface, you will see it very easily due to the light colour under a thin layer of paint.
But You can also seal the whole thing a few times to build up at least some protection.
Nice idea overall.
Excellent stuff. I'll certainly be trying this as I have several signs to make. Time is money etc 😁
Thank you. It helps if there is a market. Cheers J
Great test! Thanks for sharing!!
I wonder if you coated the entire board in polyurethane (let cure)...put on the tape, then lettered acrylic paint, then coat again with polyurethane again? Seal, paint, seal?
Yes as long as the laser doesn't cut through the first sealant layer. Cheers J
Could you not cut the stencil out of a sheet of cardboard to replace the frog tape? Or do you think the stencil would lft too much. Also I wonder what vinyl would look like in comparison.
Than less you upcycle your old cardboard I would say the frog tape is cheaper. The issue with vinyl is the toxic gases released and should be cnc cut rather than vaporised by a laser. Cheers J
what happened to the wood stove steam powered generator series ???? i was really looking forward to that !
Still in progress. I've been working on new designs from the feedback of the video. Although it looks like not many are interested in it compared to my other projects and certainly not many people have entered the raffle to help fund it so progress may be slow. Cheers J
Brill vid thank you 🙂 can I ask what you are running your diesel heater on please Thanks 🙂
Thank you. at the moment just straight kerocene as I can get it for £0.60 per litre. the top tank is for a veg oil mix but I don't have it on long enough yet to use it. cheers J
Would you provide a bit more information on the modification you made to avoid cable issues with homing? Thanks.
Essentially there isn't enough room for the cable in the home position. To create more space I moved the sensor trigger bracket over by one bolt hole which gives an extra 8mm gap. It means the bracket is only held on with one bolt but you could drill and tap a new hole. I also cable tied the cable as close as I could get it to the frame to minimise push back also. Cheers J
Watch the video again - he very clearly explains what he did.
Are you planning any blacksmithing content Joshua?, I really miss the old channel content
I've got some coming. I keep being given machines to review so I'm constantly side tracked. I've got several commissions to start next month. Cheers J
Very interesting, the bleeding can be attributable to the type of wood used. Pine has a hard and soft grain depicted by the darker - harder and the softer - lighter, which tends to hollow. Most of the bleeding took place on the softer grain, which makes sense after planing. Using a wallpaper seam roller after the laser cutter could reduce some of the bleeding. The Frogtape is really good. An enjoyable post, very much appreciated 👍
Thank you so much. You're right I bet different woods will have a varied result. I think the use of a sealing agent is definitely something to take the guess work away. Cheers J
So why is lasing the varnish a bad thing? Quick video?
because it goes back to bare wood which will absorb the paint. cheers J
You could try gilding wax/rub n buff, it has lots of other names. it wouldn't bleed like paint does
It depends how well a paint would stick to the wax. I suspect not very well. Cheers J
I have seen others successfully replace mod podge with diluted PVA glue in some applications. It would be interesting to see if that could be an alternative here as well to maybe save a few cents and not having to buy mod podge 😊
PVA is certainly cheaper. Mod podge dries hard eventually though. Cheers J
That's because mod podge IS PVA glue diluted with water (I have seen ratios from 1/4 to 1/2 cup water to 1 cup glue) with a bit of water-based acrylic varnish added for gloss finish.
This is maybe a naive suggestion, but would a finish like boiled linseed oil give a resist for the staining? All my boiled linseed oil projects have dried with a non oily finish
I tried oiling first but the paint doesn't stick well to it and takes too long to dry before it creates a barrier. Cheers J
Enjoyed viewing the video.
The summary at the end especially.
You handled the software so efficiently, but was wondering how difficult it was to learn?
Thank you so much, I'll be doing tutorials soon. cheers J
Great video as usual thanks. Love the content but even more so than the content itself possibly the fact that you try to genuinely encourage people to get going themselves and do this sort of thing. I dream of one day being able to make my living from making things for people, so I love hearing that encouragement.
Thank you so much. Nothing brings more satisfaction than physically holding and seeing the hard work of your hand. Getting it to pay is the icing on the cake. Cheers J
Thanks for the video. This will save me a ton of time doing similar tests. 😎
Thank you. Cheers J
I'm curious if a deeper cut by the laser helps the bleeding or makes it worse?
If the paint falls into the grove it's worse but allowing the paint to soak into the wood without jumping the gap works great. Cheers J
I like your overall process and thinking through the problems. I think some of the issue was with the type of wood you chose to use as test materials. It looked like pine which is veiny and will tend to bleed easier. You said in the beginning of the video you have some reclaimed wood flooring with some nice tight grain to it. I think that may resist the urge to bleed as much. I just got my laser not too long ago and I'm still getting used to it and have to decide if the extension is worth it or adding another upgraded laser with a longer bed. Jury is still out. Keep up the good work.
But why not let the laser burn an outline to stop the bleed? At least if you are using black paint.
Diluted PVA glue might have a similar effect as mod podge. Seals up the fibres to stop them acting like capilliaries.
Thank you. I think mod podge also dries hard eventually unlike PVA. It's worth a go to save money though. Cheers J
I've had excellent results stencilling using a 12v compressor nail / cake airbrush kit (Ebay). With adjustment, the paint can be applied almost dry with very little waste and can be used for arty effects like rusting and verdigris. ..oo00( Mmmm..rusty cake )
You have a fantastic laser... it is a pity that it cannot etch the wood making you have to paint it... 😉
Thank you! Really great information.
Thank you so much. Cheers J
How about trying sanding sealer? Great video, as usual!
Worth trying. Cheers J
Couldn't you varnish the whole surface, wait for it to harden, then tape, cut the tape with the laser, paint the words and then a final sealing layer of varnish?
Problem is the laser can burn through the varnish leaving bare wood to soak up the paint. Cheers J
Do you reckon this could be adapted into a plasma cutter?
I would recommend a cheaper model to do that such as the comgrow Z1. That way you can use standard extrusions to get the length you want. Cheers J
As an added bonus, you've discovered an excellent Laser Blaster sound effect for any film companies that might be interested. (the tape rolls) ;)
Lol. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Are you onto Colin Furze, Josh? He makes his own tools, and uses laser cutters... he'd be crazy to go hang out with.
@@louithrottler yes. He's not got a laser though, it's a plasma cutter. I built one of those too. Not got the sponsorship he has though. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Ohhhh ...details details 😁
Slightly different variables, But I've had good success with PVA glue (cheap skate version of mod poge) painting a thin layer to wood and then printing to another thin layer on plastic and sandwich PVA layer together. Varnish over to protect the finish. I use it to add photos to some carpentry projects.
Not sure mog podge would ever survive outdoors.
Thank you. Mod podge dries dry hard eventually and is dish washer safe apparently. Cheers J
Talking about profit and everything. Do you include material cost in your calculations?
No. I mentioned that I didn't include that. Cheers J
Okay! Thank you for responding
use vector mode, decrease resolution, set filling speed 2x of border speed, it shouldn't take more than 30 minutes, plus you'll have nice, burned effect on the sign.
I would like to buy a laser but have no design/software skills is there any ware to buy the project software
You can do a lot on lightburn which is the software needed. FreeCAD is also a good place to start designing objects for laser cutting. Cheers J
Using a Lint roller works wonders for removing the cut masking tape ;)
Interesting I'll look into that. Cheers J
Seems more practical to laser-cut adhesive-backed vinyl, like what Cricut and xTool M1 use, then Modge-Podge .
The problem with vinyl is the vapours are toxic in fact similar to mustard gas from ww1. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle I figured there must a reason for not doing that, but what about laser cutting letters from adhesive-backed paper?
@@FranklyWry I'm not sure, it depends on the chemical composition and that's hard to find out however vinyl generally contains chlorine which is harmful as a gas. Cheers J
That crappy pine board is so soft it requires more thorough prep than you would expect. Tight grain hardwood will yield superior results. Your surface should be considerably closer to dead flat than what I saw after you “planed”. The lacquer or shellac seal coat before and after cutting will also give you superior results especially if you quickly roll the tape before you spray the second coat of sealer.
It's the only tape I use and I have never had bleeding
I'll check it out. Cheers J
What Android app are you using to control the cutter?
I don't use an app for this one but on others I use GRBL controller app. Cheers J
Try blue masking tape as was used on 3D printer beds in 2016.
Very good video!
Can you actually sell lots of those for £80, though?
It very much depends on the client. Something is only worth what some one is prepared to pay. However I'm always amazed what people do spend their money on. Cheers J
Yeah, I guess it's funny like that. We manufacture hot sauce and did a year-long barrel aged sauce which we sold for $30AUD (about £15.50) and was surprised how many people bought without flinching.
@@The_Fluid_Druid Nice. Well done. Cheers J
Great video yet again. Thank you. 😊😊😊
Thank you so much. More to come. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle brilliant I’m learning more and more about laser printing from you than ever before. So I’ll look forward to seeing them. Thank you. 👍👍👍
@@1MartinWaite Thank you. I've got a new enclosed diode laser from xTool and the P2 co2 laser to test out soon. Also I've got more projects to build with the longer B1 40w and Atezr 36w. I've just designed a foot pedal bench grinder to cut out and I'm going to build a series of other hand crank mechanisms also. Cheers J
Honestly, just use a vinyl cutter. They are cheap, efficient and when cut with pro-quality film, even reds will last outdoors for over five years. I can make those signs in less than five minutes once the blanks are ready- and they're nice and durable.
If you can use a laser cutter, vinyl cutters are even easier. Try it.
You should have tried blue painters tape it's in the name
Is it better than frog tape?
@joshuadelisle there are two types. The cheaper "Original" is between regular masking tape and frogtape, but the blue "Sharp Edge" has a polyester component that gives a more even adhesive which really reduces bleeding.
@@zacwolf2 awesome. Thank you
Need to do a mask, laser & sandblast version!!!
Great idea. I will. Cheers J
@joshuadelisle Leave the masking on the text and remove around it...then sandblast!!! This IMHO is probably one of my favorite techniques and visually attractive!!!
@@fookingsog awesome thanks for the tip. Cheers J
hi joshua
so did you have to leave the mod podg to dry for
was it four weeks?.
simon
No just an hour. It says 30mins between coats but 4 weeks to fully cure which means it will go solid eventually instead of flexible like PVA. Cheers J
Awesome as always
Thank you so much. Cheers J
Instead of using paint cans, try an airbrush. Less overspray, better dosing of paint (takes practice), easier painting of smaller details.
I can imagine that would be a lot better. Cheers J
Have you tried sealing the wood in its entirety first.. then mask, cut with laser and then spray.. brush.. stipple or whatever else floats your boat. By sealing the entire face of the wood first should stop the bleed.
I have. But where the laser pieces through the coating is where it will raw wood that absorbs the paint. That's why you want to seal after engraving. Cheers J
I think you should have a lot more subscribers ;)
You're very kind. Cheers J
1 more now
@@benlenders7813 thank you so much. Cheers J
Try using a stencil brush
The problem is they're expensive and only suited to water based paints. You'll get a better effect using the correct paint with the right brush for sure. Cheers J
how did you do this i have the exact same set up and lightburn will not home the machine what version of firmware are you using
Doesn't home at all?
yes it will move towards the home location but it is not receiving messages from the limit sensors so it runs into the side and grinds on both x and y unless I'm past 436 then it stops half way but still grinds on x does that make sense the way I explained it @@joshuadelisle
Awesome job.
Thank you. God bless. Cheers J
When you edit, turning down the volume during the stenciling will make for a more pleasant viewing experience.
After having watched/ffwd’d to the end, I have to take umbrage with your figures. You gave no figures for the amount of time it would take to get the commissions. Sitting at farmers markets, fairs, etc will turn that 600% down to 50% pretty easily. There’s enough bait and clip videos out there. “Don’t recommend this channel” for me.
Those points you made are relative and my points are only potential. There is no copy and paste scheme to selling custom work and is completely dependent on your own creativity, ingenuity and market understanding. I made the point to say the costs are based only on what I showed, an in depth costing is much deeper subject than what a simple laser tool review can accommodate. Cheers J
Spray...paint...? O.o
I'm a little late to the party... using a clear water base finish will cause the frog tape to swell and seal the adhesive to the wood preventing the colored paint from bleeding. Basically the same as painting the lettered area with a coat of paint that is the same as the field(as previously mentioned by someone else) This has been the norm for painters for years that do this for a living, even before Frog Tape was invented.
Seal the wood first, no feathering