A lot of British companies just having their goods returned because they have no idea the paperwork required , but yes it does mean taxes, but they don't know who pays it where
Thanks for the comments, and yes that is also a good way.. As for brexit, there is no import taxt ( at the moment) , I do need to pay the VAT . But then again not in the UK. The bad things is additional costs that the shipment company asks for administration work as you need to get an ORIE number....
Hi Steve. I made a comment on one of your Mini videos about the clamp on the tailpipe. That wider clamp you showed us for the TVR, would look great on the Mini tailpipe. And you have 'header' pipes! 😁 'Heather' grows in the mountains. I know English isn't your first language, and we all know what you meant anyway so it's all good. Keep up the hard work.
Thanks for the correction, although I did look it up... Must have been the wrong page... Indeed that is a good clamp for the mini and I will put that up soon.
I prefer stainless steel for exhaust bolts. Copper antisieze is also a good move for anything exhaust related. One other suggestion I have is to use at least two studs on each head. This allows you to mount the header and make sure that all the bolt holes are properly aligned.
Love all of your ventures as being nearly could be your dads age. Ceramic coating would have been my choice of what you had mentioned. Never had any luck with the rap lasting more than a few rounds of autocross.Poly Dyn in here in the States has, IMO, has superior coatings. Anyway I can relate to your scattered achievements for I have so many not only car, motorcycle and home projects too. DAM MAN WHERE'S OLD RUSTY? LOL
The wide band exhaust clamps are way better than the U clamps if Over tightened pinches the exhaust pipes and then is very difficult to remove. The best exhaust clamps are V band clamps but you need to weld the joint into the muffler and pipe.
Those header bolts are Self tapping bolts ...that weird angle cut is to start threading a hole you drill ( proper sized to leave enough to thread ) in steel...common in commercial use...driven in by a drill of course and lubricated usually ( but not always by some )....
The new bolt looks like UNC thread & the 8.8 bolt looks like metric (pretty sure that only metric fasteners use the 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 etc designation)? I think Ford changed from imperial to metric between 1973 -76 in Europe so depends when your engine was built but would guess it would be imperial. There is a crossover between some metric & imperial threads where they will fit together but the thread form is not correct so do not interface properly). The subject of spring washers is a moot point too. They have been proven to be pretty much useless at stopping things coming undone but do have a habit of fracturing & falling out of the clamped area. No OEMs use spring washers now for this reason. The pipe clamps are good for exhaust slip joints assuming the fit of the pipes is good. Lots of motorcycles use these clamps as do some car manufacturers.
hanks for the commens and explanation, on this car the original ( if they are original, as you never know who changed it) are 8.8 bolds and UNC thread, and so are my new bolds both 5/16-18. The strength or grading indication is IMO not locked to the type of thread. I mean by this that a UNC or UNF, or BSF or metric threaded bold can carry a SAE or ISO strength marking.. Given that this would be strange but I have seen it before . Regards
In the Toyota world we can get some really nice gaskets directly from Toyota. For example one can use a manifold gasket from a 7K on a 2/3/4/5K engine. The 7K gasket is a three layer steel/composite gasket that can be reused indefinitely while the other gaskets and aftermarket gaskets are either paper or similar to what you have used and are only really good for one use.
Those old bolts are Self-Tapping! The cutout is meant to gather the swarf (Cut metal) as the edge cuts new threads. I'm very curious as to why the previous owner would use them. It looks like the P.O. had damaged the threads and tried to use a metric bolt in an SAE thread hole. Either way is a BAD IDEA, and I'm glad you put original style bolts back in. In North America (and probably other places), those flexible joints you used on your Socket Extensions are usually called Universal Joints, or just U-joints. Nothing fancy, but as you said, they are VERY handy in stupid places! LOL The two types of muffler clamps (Yup - our terms, again! LOL) - the u-bolt type is most common - especially for home mechanics, but since I work in Aviation, I see the other type a LOT, and use them extensively - especially for hoses, and LOVE them! I DO have some on my exhaust on my truck (I have an aftermarket exhaust), and although I was originally skeptical, they have not leaked in 15+ years. I hope your parts come in quickly !
Thanks for the comments Norm, good points. And yes , its a strange bold that was in original...If it was original, as you never know what previous owners have done.
WHOA WHOA WHOA, ok so the new bolt( actually set screw ) is a 5/16 unc but its NOT the same as that grade 8.8, the grade 5 is imperial and that 8.8 is most definitely an M8 (metric ) course thread screw both very similar to each other but you can ruin the threads on the head if you get them mixed up due to the angle of the thread tooth, the ford engine was probably a 5/16unc originally so you are probably best to stick to imperial , so just for anyone else wanting to know, 3 lines is grade 5, 6 lines is grade 8, metric is usually stamped 4.6 or 8.8 or 10.9
Thanks for the comments, well the old and new bold are both UNC 5/16-18. That is for sure as I have measures the step and so on. In fact , I did try a cutting die UNC5/16-18 on the old bold to be 100% sure.. And that spins on as it should ,no play , not locking after a few turns etc... So, that was the final assurance of the actual thread type. The only question is of course , are those the original bolds ? As far as I could look that up, they are for the type F engine.
@@D3Sshooter you probably won't see any play with a 5/16 die on an m8 as the m8 is 0.05mm different to it, the only real difference of any matter is the angle of the thread ( not the threads per inch/ thread count ) from memory it's 60 degrees vs 55 degrees so a m8 should go into a 5/16 hole ok, but a 5/16 bolt may have issues going into an m8 hole, because you didn't have issues putting the 5/16 bolt into the head I'd say that 5/16 is the correct and original size, it was also a bit weird that the screw you removed had a cutting edge on it as they are typically only used if going into a hole that has no threads formed
@@bloodreighn Thanks and indeed, I did check the ford spare parts catalogue and that stated UNC 5/16 . So the conclusion is that the previous owner or mechanic that worked on the car used the 8.8 bold and that was wrong.. That could be the reason why he was using a cutting bold.... In each case that is now sorted with the right bolds and thread... Thanks for comming back to me with those great details.
If the bolt head is marked with 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9, it's a metric bolt and diameter, head, length and thread pitch are measured in millimeters. If the bolt has only three or six lines pointing toward the center of the head, the bolt is standard SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers). Therefore you are using the wrong bolt but your cleaning the female thread has created an SAE thread.
Thanks for the comments, well I did check it over and over ..and a 5/16-18 UNC die goes over smoothly over the old bold, no play, no starting to grip after a few turns. Note that the cleaning went very smoothly for the distance that the old bold had been in, behind that there was off course corrosion and rust. Also note that the UNC bold ( new ) was also the recommended bold from the TVR center. As per ford parts manual its part 02024 5/16 UNC x 1Inch long bold. So that is what I have installed...
John, The original bolds ( as per Ford spec is UNC part 02024 5/16-18. What came out of the car was not an original bold as per ford spec. So someone has missed it before,
A good system is stainless steel studs and brass nuts, makes it a lot easier in future. I don't like using bolts because there's nothing to help lock them in, studs are bottomed out so they don't come undone
Informative, interesting and entertaining proper engineering as usual. Brass is the alloy that exhaust nuts and bolts are made from. It is an alloy of copper and tin (I think). Please don't be offended by my pointing this out. Stay safe and best wishes from Australia.
I like the way you explain what you are doing. And the video is of high quality. I'm not so much interested in the TVR. But the way you make the videos . Thank you
I don't think you should use those bonded rubber type mounts... They will let you down. Use a solid rubber block with a bolt all the way through with large washers, then it can never break. Remember to use copper grease on the pipes as they slide into each other. The wide cramps look like a good idea , we never used to have those but they do seem good if you can crank down on them
I actually never thought of that. You could re-use the original until you get new ones. Some threaded bar through the centre of it. You would lose flexibility though.
Thanks for the tip, I have them ordered as shown.. as I don't want to much vibration... That one large block as you refer to, does that not absorb less ?
@@D3Sshooter not so you would notice the difference, it's a lot better than a dropped exhaust. You can also use rubber under the head of each part, 3 pieces for flexibility but still have the security of a bolt. Those bonded rubber parts are not worth using, always a problem back in the day and why we don't use them now
@@fiatp-gr4pv as rubber ages the rubber becomes less flexible I'd rather find something new... One of those hole saws in the drill and an old car tyre... That kind last forever
The exhaust mountings I prefer to use have two rubber washers, one on each side of a steel tab attached to the exhaust. A steel tube fits through both rubber washers and a bolt then fits through the tube and bolts to a bracket on the car. It still insulates against vibration, but can’t fall apart.
As I mentioned before, I had a Triumph 2000 mk1 in the early 70's. It didn't have mufflers but two resonators. The thinking behind this was that the sound was deadened by the two resonators resonating against each other, but the exhaust was a free flow. With today's emission regulations the exhaust system has unfortunately to be much more complicated..
Hey Stephan, your Videos are so perfect. First Video I saw about your TVR but I've alreads watched a lot about your other projects. I enjoied each. One question: What is the front brake setup on your M. I have two of those fantastic cars, but both are runing on the weak TR6 setup. would be greate to improve. Best Dirk
Hi Steve, Great video! I noticed your heat wrap, which I don't have installed on mine. I realize this will help with my problem but maybe you can advise me or suggest what I could have a look at. I have two well serviced old starter motors and I have tried both installed without the starter heat shield and have had the same result. If the the engine is cold the starter turns unrestricted but if the engine is at running temp then they wont, as if the battery is really flat, once the engine has cooled again no problem. Do you think making these two fixes (the wrap will be easy but I cant source the starter heat shield, and I have heard of this not being totally necessary) will solve the problem or should I be looking at something else, maybe timing or whatever you might have come across?
Very good question, the heath from the exhaust is one thing to shield, and that will help. Off course you might have another issue with warm/hot engine as metals expand the engine might become more difficult to crank over by the starter. That often is seen as a starter problem , but its not.
Hi Steve great vid again , I live in France and have parts tools delivered from UK , it seems UK suppliers don't charge you VAT but you pay it on delivery to la poste with admin fee 😡
HI Flemish, i really dont want to miss any of your videos. i downloaded them all in to my external harddrive so that i will not have to use data all tha time i have to watch them . next time elaborate more on bolds, like choosing them and what means what on the writtings of the bolds your follower m.b.s moshitoa ( s africa)
Hi Steve, altijd leuk om te zien hoe andere mensen dingen aanpakken! Ik kreeg pas de opmerking dat je bouten kan overspannen als je er vet of olie aan doet. Ik heb persoonlijk nog nooit een bout stuk gemaakt daardoor, wat is uw ervaring?
You took out Metric bolts ( those 8.8 ones ) and put in Standard thread size based on your Tap?? Which are the correct size?? As they may not be staying tight if someone rethreaded them with those self tappers?? 🤔
Hallo Steve, in het Nederlands spreken we van een kruisgewricht, maar bij de bestelling moest ik altijd cardangewricht opgeven. Dus ik neem aan dat het in het Engels ook cardan Is. Groet Geert
Hi Steve (en Geert), in Afrikaans gebruik ons die woord ,kruisgewrig' tog maar in Engels, a ,Universal extension'. Terloops, waar daar in Flaams (en Afrikaans) gepraat word van iets ,opsit' word dit vertaal na Engels as ,put something on, not ,put something up'. Dit bly maar 'n gesukkel om in jou kop te kry!
I like your clamp choice, I use clamps similar to yours but designed particularly for exhaust systems and commonly used in Europe, in metric sizes. The cheap U bolt type tend to indent the relatively thin exhaust pipe tubing making an interlocking circumferential groove between both pipes locking them together. A real problem if sometime in the future you might want to remove the exhaust to perhaps replace it our other items that it blocks access to. Not a good choice ro our "toys".
Aftermarket parts are hit and miss, there are really terrible ones like the home brand from hans pries "topran" for example (We call it in Dutch Top Ramp). The prices are too low to be true. When you work in the industry like i do you can filter the aftermarket oem parts out easely, becouse they have often removed the original oem number and or put a sticker on it. But for the people playing at home it must be a true hassle with these parts. Some times those terrible aftermarket parts just do not fit right or just do not last. Too bad this isnt regulated.
"Headers" is the correct way to spell, only saying as it looks funny as "Heathers". Great videos, keep them coming
Thanks for the correction, I was wondering about that and looked it up and somehow I must have gotten it wrong..
I've been using ceramic anti seizing paste for aluminium heads. Hope you don't have to pay extra import taxes with brexit. Keep the good work going
A lot of British companies just having their goods returned because they have no idea the paperwork required , but yes it does mean taxes, but they don't know who pays it where
Thanks for the comments, and yes that is also a good way.. As for brexit, there is no import taxt ( at the moment) , I do need to pay the VAT . But then again not in the UK. The bad things is additional costs that the shipment company asks for administration work as you need to get an ORIE number....
Hi Steve. I made a comment on one of your Mini videos about the clamp on the tailpipe. That wider clamp you showed us for the TVR, would look great on the Mini tailpipe.
And you have 'header' pipes! 😁 'Heather' grows in the mountains. I know English isn't your first language, and we all know what you meant anyway so it's all good. Keep up the hard work.
Thanks for the correction, although I did look it up... Must have been the wrong page... Indeed that is a good clamp for the mini and I will put that up soon.
I prefer stainless steel for exhaust bolts. Copper antisieze is also a good move for anything exhaust related. One other suggestion I have is to use at least two studs on each head. This allows you to mount the header and make sure that all the bolt holes are properly aligned.
I like the details in these videos these kind of things are usually cut out but seeing it all is really
Good
Thanks for the commens
Love all of your ventures as being nearly could be your dads age. Ceramic coating would have been my choice of what you had mentioned. Never had any luck with the rap lasting more than a few rounds of autocross.Poly Dyn in here in the States has, IMO, has superior coatings. Anyway I can relate to your scattered achievements for I have so many not only car, motorcycle and home projects too. DAM MAN WHERE'S OLD RUSTY? LOL
The wide band exhaust clamps are way better than the U clamps if Over tightened pinches the exhaust pipes and then is very difficult to remove. The best exhaust clamps are V band clamps but you need to weld the joint into the muffler and pipe.
Thanks for the comments, good tip .
Those header bolts are Self tapping bolts ...that weird angle cut is to start threading a hole you drill ( proper sized to leave enough to thread ) in steel...common in commercial use...driven in by a drill of course and lubricated usually ( but not always by some )....
thanks for the comments
The new bolt looks like UNC thread & the 8.8 bolt looks like metric (pretty sure that only metric fasteners use the 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 etc designation)? I think Ford changed from imperial to metric between 1973 -76 in Europe so depends when your engine was built but would guess it would be imperial. There is a crossover between some metric & imperial threads where they will fit together but the thread form is not correct so do not interface properly). The subject of spring washers is a moot point too. They have been proven to be pretty much useless at stopping things coming undone but do have a habit of fracturing & falling out of the clamped area. No OEMs use spring washers now for this reason. The pipe clamps are good for exhaust slip joints assuming the fit of the pipes is good. Lots of motorcycles use these clamps as do some car manufacturers.
hanks for the commens and explanation, on this car the original ( if they are original, as you never know who changed it) are 8.8 bolds and UNC thread, and so are my new bolds both 5/16-18. The strength or grading indication is IMO not locked to the type of thread. I mean by this that a UNC or UNF, or BSF or metric threaded bold can carry a SAE or ISO strength marking.. Given that this would be strange but I have seen it before . Regards
8.8 and so on are metric bolts. You are correct.
In the Toyota world we can get some really nice gaskets directly from Toyota. For example one can use a manifold gasket from a 7K on a 2/3/4/5K engine. The 7K gasket is a three layer steel/composite gasket that can be reused indefinitely while the other gaskets and aftermarket gaskets are either paper or similar to what you have used and are only really good for one use.
Thanks for the comments
Those old bolts are Self-Tapping! The cutout is meant to gather the swarf (Cut metal) as the edge cuts new threads. I'm very curious as to why the previous owner would use them. It looks like the P.O. had damaged the threads and tried to use a metric bolt in an SAE thread hole. Either way is a BAD IDEA, and I'm glad you put original style bolts back in.
In North America (and probably other places), those flexible joints you used on your Socket Extensions are usually called Universal Joints, or just U-joints. Nothing fancy, but as you said, they are VERY handy in stupid places! LOL
The two types of muffler clamps (Yup - our terms, again! LOL) - the u-bolt type is most common - especially for home mechanics, but since I work in Aviation, I see the other type a LOT, and use them extensively - especially for hoses, and LOVE them! I DO have some on my exhaust on my truck (I have an aftermarket exhaust), and although I was originally skeptical, they have not leaked in 15+ years.
I hope your parts come in quickly !
Thanks for the comments Norm, good points. And yes , its a strange bold that was in original...If it was original, as you never know what previous owners have done.
WHOA WHOA WHOA, ok so the new bolt( actually set screw ) is a 5/16 unc but its NOT the same as that grade 8.8, the grade 5 is imperial and that 8.8 is most definitely an M8 (metric ) course thread screw both very similar to each other but you can ruin the threads on the head if you get them mixed up due to the angle of the thread tooth, the ford engine was probably a 5/16unc originally so you are probably best to stick to imperial , so just for anyone else wanting to know, 3 lines is grade 5, 6 lines is grade 8, metric is usually stamped 4.6 or 8.8 or 10.9
Thanks for the comments, well the old and new bold are both UNC 5/16-18. That is for sure as I have measures the step and so on. In fact , I did try a cutting die UNC5/16-18 on the old bold to be 100% sure.. And that spins on as it should ,no play , not locking after a few turns etc... So, that was the final assurance of the actual thread type. The only question is of course , are those the original bolds ? As far as I could look that up, they are for the type F engine.
@@D3Sshooter you probably won't see any play with a 5/16 die on an m8 as the m8 is 0.05mm different to it, the only real difference of any matter is the angle of the thread ( not the threads per inch/ thread count ) from memory it's 60 degrees vs 55 degrees so a m8 should go into a 5/16 hole ok, but a 5/16 bolt may have issues going into an m8 hole, because you didn't have issues putting the 5/16 bolt into the head I'd say that 5/16 is the correct and original size, it was also a bit weird that the screw you removed had a cutting edge on it as they are typically only used if going into a hole that has no threads formed
@@bloodreighn Thanks and indeed, I did check the ford spare parts catalogue and that stated UNC 5/16 . So the conclusion is that the previous owner or mechanic that worked on the car used the 8.8 bold and that was wrong.. That could be the reason why he was using a cutting bold.... In each case that is now sorted with the right bolds and thread... Thanks for comming back to me with those great details.
@@D3Sshooter no problems, ive been caught out by it before myself, its annoying working with english cars during the cross over years haha
The problem with metric bolts are, you can have up to 3 different thread pitches on the same diameter bolt.
If the bolt head is marked with 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9, it's a metric bolt and diameter, head, length and thread pitch are measured in millimeters. If the bolt has only three or six lines pointing toward the center of the head, the bolt is standard SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers). Therefore you are using the wrong bolt but your cleaning the female thread has created an SAE thread.
Yes, the original bolt was metric. The new bolt is SAE. You can visually see the difference in thread pitch.
The original bolt is a thread cutting washer face in my experience.
Thanks for the comments, well I did check it over and over ..and a 5/16-18 UNC die goes over smoothly over the old bold, no play, no starting to grip after a few turns.
Note that the cleaning went very smoothly for the distance that the old bold had been in, behind that there was off course corrosion and rust. Also note that the UNC bold ( new ) was also the recommended bold from the TVR center. As per ford parts manual its part 02024 5/16 UNC x 1Inch long bold. So that is what I have installed...
John, The original bolds ( as per Ford spec is UNC part 02024 5/16-18. What came out of the car was not an original bold as per ford spec. So someone has missed it before,
A good system is stainless steel studs and brass nuts, makes it a lot easier in future. I don't like using bolts because there's nothing to help lock them in, studs are bottomed out so they don't come undone
Thanks, good point
@@D3Sshooter less important on iron, but on alloy it saves wear on the thread in the head and ensures maximum engagement
Great restoration but old rusty is my favourite!
Thanks for the comments, and yes that is coming back as soon as this TVR is sorted
This intro is insane, good job
The production values just keep getting better!
Thank you
Thanks
I really love how educational you are. Learned alot.
Thanks for the commens
Great job n waiting until tomorrow. Enjoyable video 👍.thanks Steve
Thanks for the comments
Informative, interesting and entertaining proper engineering as usual. Brass is the alloy that exhaust nuts and bolts are made from. It is an alloy of copper and tin (I think). Please don't be offended by my pointing this out. Stay safe and best wishes from Australia.
I like the way you explain what you are doing. And the video is of high quality. I'm not so much interested in the TVR. But the way you make the videos .
Thank you
Loving the detail you put into your videos. Loving the car too. Thanks.
I don't think you should use those bonded rubber type mounts... They will let you down. Use a solid rubber block with a bolt all the way through with large washers, then it can never break. Remember to use copper grease on the pipes as they slide into each other. The wide cramps look like a good idea , we never used to have those but they do seem good if you can crank down on them
I actually never thought of that. You could re-use the original until you get new ones. Some threaded bar through the centre of it. You would lose flexibility though.
Thanks for the tip, I have them ordered as shown.. as I don't want to much vibration... That one large block as you refer to, does that not absorb less ?
@@D3Sshooter not so you would notice the difference, it's a lot better than a dropped exhaust. You can also use rubber under the head of each part, 3 pieces for flexibility but still have the security of a bolt. Those bonded rubber parts are not worth using, always a problem back in the day and why we don't use them now
@@fiatp-gr4pv as rubber ages the rubber becomes less flexible I'd rather find something new... One of those hole saws in the drill and an old car tyre... That kind last forever
The exhaust mountings I prefer to use have two rubber washers, one on each side of a steel tab attached to the exhaust. A steel tube fits through both rubber washers and a bolt then fits through the tube and bolts to a bracket on the car. It still insulates against vibration, but can’t fall apart.
Keep up the good work, another great video. Cheers !
Thanks for the comments,
Those clamps bolts on muffler always back out due to vibration.Meaning you got to tighten every now and then they always back out.
As I mentioned before, I had a Triumph 2000 mk1 in the early 70's. It didn't have mufflers but two resonators. The thinking behind this was that the sound was deadened by the two resonators resonating against each other, but the exhaust was a free flow. With today's emission regulations the exhaust system has unfortunately to be much more complicated..
Schitterend werk ! De uitlaat is prachtig !
Hey Stephan, your Videos are so perfect. First Video I saw about your TVR but I've alreads watched a lot about your other projects. I enjoied each. One question: What is the front brake setup on your M. I have two of those fantastic cars, but both are runing on the weak TR6 setup. would be greate to improve. Best Dirk
Hi Steve, Great video! I noticed your heat wrap, which I don't have installed on mine. I realize this will help with my problem but maybe you can advise me or suggest what I could have a look at. I have two well serviced old starter motors and I have tried both installed without the starter heat shield and have had the same result. If the the engine is cold the starter turns unrestricted but if the engine is at running temp then they wont, as if the battery is really flat, once the engine has cooled again no problem. Do you think making these two fixes (the wrap will be easy but I cant source the starter heat shield, and I have heard of this not being totally necessary) will solve the problem or should I be looking at something else, maybe timing or whatever you might have come across?
Very good question, the heath from the exhaust is one thing to shield, and that will help. Off course you might have another issue with warm/hot engine as metals expand the engine might become more difficult to crank over by the starter. That often is seen as a starter problem , but its not.
Hi Steve great vid again , I live in France and have parts tools delivered from UK , it seems UK suppliers don't charge you VAT but you pay it on delivery to la poste with admin fee 😡
Ripped up hands............give away signs of a British car owner, burnt hands mean things have been torqued..............oh what fun
Steve, the fixings are setscrews, not bolts. Might it be better ti use a bolt that has a plain shank?
HI Flemish, i really dont want to miss any of your videos. i downloaded them all in to my external harddrive so that i will not have to use data all tha time i have to watch them .
next time elaborate more on bolds, like choosing them and what means what on the writtings of the bolds
your follower
m.b.s moshitoa ( s africa)
Hi Steve, altijd leuk om te zien hoe andere mensen dingen aanpakken!
Ik kreeg pas de opmerking dat je bouten kan overspannen als je er vet of olie aan doet. Ik heb persoonlijk nog nooit een bout stuk gemaakt daardoor, wat is uw ervaring?
You took out Metric bolts ( those 8.8 ones ) and put in Standard thread size based on your Tap?? Which are the correct size?? As they may not be staying tight if someone rethreaded them with those self tappers?? 🤔
it was fitted wrong before , as per ford spec its cnf . i covered it in the next video
Hallo Steve, in het Nederlands spreken we van een kruisgewricht, maar bij de bestelling moest ik altijd cardangewricht opgeven. Dus ik neem aan dat het in het Engels ook cardan Is. Groet Geert
Bedankt, ja kruis gewricht dat zou ik ook zeggen . Zit ook in de meeste Cardan's , aandrijf assen...
Hi Steve (en Geert), in Afrikaans gebruik ons die woord ,kruisgewrig' tog maar in Engels, a ,Universal extension'. Terloops, waar daar in Flaams (en Afrikaans) gepraat word van iets ,opsit' word dit vertaal na Engels as ,put something on, not ,put something up'. Dit bly maar 'n gesukkel om in jou kop te kry!
I like your clamp choice, I use clamps similar to yours but designed particularly for exhaust systems and commonly used in Europe, in metric sizes. The cheap U bolt type tend to indent the relatively thin exhaust pipe tubing making an interlocking circumferential groove between both pipes locking them together. A real problem if sometime in the future you might want to remove the exhaust to perhaps replace it our other items that it blocks access to. Not a good choice ro our "toys".
Thanks for the info! Fully conceur, in fact I had one tube that has that issue and I now need to correct it as it has that indent.
If your block is Made of aluminum, be careful with copper paste ! It will eat it in combination with a steel bolt
The Scots would be interested in new heathers but the TVR would like new headers.....
so funny ,thanks.. and maybe I am Scottish
Is this the Sequel to " HEATHERS " ( 1988 MOVIE ) .... DUAL HEATHERS...
Thanks for the comments, hahaha i f u
Aftermarket parts are hit and miss, there are really terrible ones like the home brand from hans pries "topran" for example (We call it in Dutch Top Ramp). The prices are too low to be true. When you work in the industry like i do you can filter the aftermarket oem parts out easely, becouse they have often removed the original oem number and or put a sticker on it. But for the people playing at home it must be a true hassle with these parts. Some times those terrible aftermarket parts just do not fit right or just do not last. Too bad this isnt regulated.