@ 10;13, I do believe the rods and caps were a marked set from the factory. I rebuilt the engine in my 1935 WC Allis some time ago, and the rods had 3 different stampings on each one. Somebody didn't clean things up to look at them before stamping it the second and third time. Don't freeze the sleeves. Leave the o-rings off and slide them in place, they will slip right in if the block is clean. Then give them a turn to make sure everything fits freely. Then use a washer and bolt on each side to snug them against the shoulder to measure the 'stand out' of the sleeve. It should be .004 above the deck. Take the sleeves back out, put the o-rings on and slide them back in. A block of wood and a little bump from a hammer will set them in pale. There is a lead in chamfer on the lower bore that NEEDS to be polished up to help keep from tearing the o-rings.
I'm still searching for the lowest price. I destroyed a tire on my pickup the other day and had to buy a new set... kind of shot my budget for this. Might have to wait a while. Thanks for the view Zane!
Par for the course right Jason, Hope for the best but prepare for the worst in a rebuild. At least you got the pistons freed and ready for they next step. Great video man, I really enjoyed it! Looking forward to your next one, I’m really enjoying this series....and I’m gonna have to steal that unuptainium phrase 😂 I’d never heard that before.
Had an 8N several years back, it was a handy little tractor, but the brakes were about non existent if I remember correctly. I believe somebody told me that was a common problem on those
This might be a dumb question, but why do people sleeve engines? Is it when you can’t bore out the block anymore? And if you sleeve a block do you need new pistons to match? Great video!👍
It depends on the engine. If a cylinder is badly damaged, sometimes they can be sleeved. On this type of engine, you don't bore at all, you just replace the sleeves. Pistons need to be replaced in either scenario. Tractor engines like this one are usually wet sleeves, meaning the coolant flows around the outside of the sleeves. You will see more in the next video. Thanks for the view Cody!
YDOC Productions I didn’t know any of that either, learned something good today! I had heard that a few times any wondered myself what they were used for.
I’m starting the free-up proses on my 1952 AC G …it’s been sitting since about 1972 almost 50 years out in the weather 3 miles from west coast Pacific Ocean. Everything is stuck!
@ 10;13, I do believe the rods and caps were a marked set from the factory. I rebuilt the engine in my 1935 WC Allis some time ago, and the rods had 3 different stampings on each one.
Somebody didn't clean things up to look at them before stamping it the second and third time.
Don't freeze the sleeves. Leave the o-rings off and slide them in place, they will slip right in if the block is clean. Then give them a turn to make sure everything fits freely.
Then use a washer and bolt on each side to snug them against the shoulder to measure the 'stand out' of the sleeve. It should be .004 above the deck. Take the sleeves back out, put the o-rings on and slide them back in. A block of wood and a little bump from a hammer will set them in pale. There is a lead in chamfer on the lower bore that NEEDS to be polished up to help keep from tearing the o-rings.
Those bores were bad! 😯 hopefully sleeves are not too expensive my friend 😃👍. Great video Jason, cant wait for more!
I'm still searching for the lowest price. I destroyed a tire on my pickup the other day and had to buy a new set... kind of shot my budget for this. Might have to wait a while. Thanks for the view Zane!
@@sparksfireandbalingwire8467 that's no fun! Hopefully things work out. No hurry buddy. Have to take care of more important matters first
Par for the course right Jason, Hope for the best but prepare for the worst in a rebuild. At least you got the pistons freed and ready for they next step. Great video man, I really enjoyed it! Looking forward to your next one, I’m really enjoying this series....and I’m gonna have to steal that unuptainium phrase 😂 I’d never heard that before.
Pretty much, James. If this tractor didnt have sentimental value, I would probably be parting it out by now.
Great video. you can use a hydralic jack and jack them out.
Wow very nice video I'm getting ready to restoration 8n ford tractor
Had an 8N several years back, it was a handy little tractor, but the brakes were about non existent if I remember correctly. I believe somebody told me that was a common problem on those
I think you should make it a D17 engine since they are the same block. Just add a better camshaft and valve train to the head.
This might be a dumb question, but why do people sleeve engines? Is it when you can’t bore out the block anymore? And if you sleeve a block do you need new pistons to match? Great video!👍
It depends on the engine. If a cylinder is badly damaged, sometimes they can be sleeved. On this type of engine, you don't bore at all, you just replace the sleeves. Pistons need to be replaced in either scenario. Tractor engines like this one are usually wet sleeves, meaning the coolant flows around the outside of the sleeves. You will see more in the next video. Thanks for the view Cody!
Sparks Fire and Baling Wire Right on. I didn’t know that. Thanks!👍
YDOC Productions I didn’t know any of that either, learned something good today! I had heard that a few times any wondered myself what they were used for.
I’m starting the free-up proses on my 1952 AC G …it’s been sitting since about 1972 almost 50 years out in the weather 3 miles from west coast Pacific Ocean. Everything is stuck!
I would love to have a G but they are near non existent here in Iowa