Each have their place. If you use the expanding rivets they're pretty strong. I agree I prefer well nuts when I can use them. FYI rivets are not permanent. You can drill out the center pin and they come right out.
I like well nuts, and I even use them on my truck and car, when mounting lights and stuff. The rubber helps out with vibrations. Keep up the Great videos.
I have used both over time. Do like the rivets but darn hard getting them out if a mistake and yes drill them out but can be a real pain and less water tight. So on boats, canoe I use the well nuts. Another good point you have made. Either way if you made a mistake wrong spot or whatever you still have a repair to do and the easier way is less frustrating. Tks
Thanks great information! I’ve used both. I usually use the rivets but as you mentioned use the ones made for kayaks. The small straight ones just bulge and I’ve had them pull out several times, now I use the long ones that flare out into 3 wings. I add sealant to hole even if it has an O ring and have never had them fail, or water in my hull in rough conditions. Have a good one! 🎣
@@charlieboutin3341 Thanks Charlie. I just looked it up, and did a double-take. The packaging is nearly identical to Amazing GOOP, which I've used quite a bit in various formulations. I've heard it rumored that all the GOOP formulations are the exact same thing, and that's actually been reflected in my experience with multiple varieties. The same company makes E6000, and if I were a betting man, I may put down some money that E6000 is simply different packaging for the same product. Anyway, thanks very much for the help!
ka as I agree 100%! Goop, Shoe Goo and E 6000 seem exactly the same. Can’t believe the packaging all look the same too. We used E 6000 on racing jet ski engine bolts, they might loosen, but wouldn’t spin off. I use them all for lots of projects. 👍👍 Best wishes!
When adding some accessories to the grandson's kayak I initially ord'd some well nuts and pop rivets. Once I rec'd the order and thought about the size of the hole needed to install them, I opted to use the pop rivets. After that decision I had to go to Lowe's and buy a pop rivet gun. Not a cheap tool if you get a decent one. To ensure water-tight integrity I put a dab of silicone sealant around the drilled hole prior to installing the item, then put a dab of it in the center of the pop rivet head where the tool breaks the rivet off.
One problem with a well but that you forgot to mention in this and other videos on well nut usage that you have do.......a well nuts upper rubber ring does not allow for flat surfaces to be drawn down to the base material 100%. Although well nuts do make for a great water tight seal any item with a flat surface will have some minor wobble. You can use a bead of o silicone sealant around the items being secured base perimeter to help in reducing the wobble if needed. Rivets if able to be used will always provide a more secure joining of materials. But as you have pointed out.... Well nuts provide the opportunity to change your mind or utilize change out object. Into the same position. Thank and keep up the great video. I greatly appreciate your varied subjects of your instruction. Thanks again. Dennis G.
@pcwhitmire I apply silicone around the base of the object being secured with a well nut. Once the silicone dries it helps fill the void between the deck and the object being secured. Acting as a washer or shim. The well nuts rubber surface prevents total contact between deck and object being secured. Application of silicone is done after object is secured thus filling the void and once dried it creates a more stable connection.
Great video. I feel like neither is really that permanent, and if you change your mind on either well nut or rivet, you still have a hole. I think I'm going to go rivet, and if it needs to be a "better" hold, I will enlarge the holes for a well nut.
Great video. I'm new to adding things to my kayak but wondered why a person wouldnt use a S/S machine screw and locknut, with washers on each side (assuming you can get at the nut of course)
I like rivets they are smaller on the underside, profile and like the video said in required hole. They are also easier to use and not over tighten. Well nuts are more expensive and may hold more weight but can come loose. I will stick with rivets.
@@KayakhacksFishing Are well nuts stronger than rivets? I would have thought the opposite. I'm looking to install some extra handles on my kayak for help with loading it on the car. There will be a lot of yanking and twisting force on them. Would a well nut be a better option for this?
@@dunkshot32 I would always use rivets instead of well nuts if I could get my rivet gun in position. On utility tracks, it will not fit. I would recommend rivets for your handles.
Couple of things I'd like to add. First rivets can be removed. It's not that much fun but you can remove them either by carefully grinding off their head or simply drilling through the fastening shaft. As they are generally made out of aluminum they drill out fairly easily. Another point is that it's often a good idea after inserting the rivet into the hole to run it through the aluminum washers that are sold for this use as this spreads the stress over a larger area.
As always Great video! 🙂 Interested in a video on how to choose the correct well nut for the job. 😃 Also, when using well nuts for T track what type of bolt would you use so it would be flat (recessed hole) against the t track? Thanks.
Seems like the easiest repair would be to remove the accessory and close the hole with a new rivet or well nut. Maybe a little silicone for good measure.
Wellnuts will leave a spike on the inside of your kayak which means that when you are storing stuff for a trip or using buoyancy bags the end of the screw can tear your bags. Just an important point to remember
I think a heavy-duty rivet would work best. But, there is no perfect solution to mount high stress attachments in a place where you cannot reach to use a nut and bolt.
As others have said the best choice depends on situation. If you can access the area then always use a stainless bolt+washer+nylon locknut. If you cannot access the area then you have three choices: Tri-fold rivets, bolt+rubber wellnuts, self-tapping screws. For light load screws are fine and provide a nice seal. I think the wellnut provide superior seal over rivets but a bit of silicone on the rivet application will work great. While I have not experienced it, others have complained of popping a wellnut. However, it can be easily replaced and I believe would be more forgiving over popping a rivet which could cause some damage. In summary to with bolt and nylon nut when possible otherwise pick your favorite.
You mentioned using the proper size of well nut so that you get a good spread, what you did not mention was how do you measure to know you have a long enough well nut? More is obviously better, but can there be too much (too long)?
Sorry for the jumbled wording , my in phone secretary has trouble with spelling and tends to change some wording..... But.....you get the jist of the message.👍
Well, in my case I am dealing with a blow molded sit on top Kayak, with no hand acces underneath to reach and hold the nut. The only option is to use the rivet with an O ring precventing water leak
For proper well nut use do you need to drill out the gear trac so you can push the well nut into the trac or do you use the well nut simply as a backing nut on the inside of the kayak or can you get well nuts that will fit the size and depth needed for the hole already in the trac? This is getting nutty and I hope I am on track.
Great video, but you stated you can't rivet inside of close spaces - which isn't exactly true. It's just more difficult. If you buy (or easily build) an offset tool, one can create an offset for your rivet gun to press against that will allow you to rivet inside of close in spaces where your rivet tool cannot reach. The offset tool will allow you to get purchase on the mandrel of the rivet and be flush with the head of the rivet gun.
while it is possible to drill out rivets, if the parent material is soft, HDPE plastic, there is most likely it can damage the hole. and become unusable or require repair.
For an HDPE kayak recommend large flange rivets since they will spread out more on the inside of the kayak. You want the smallest hole with the greatest grip. Now, wood is different. Couldn't you just use a bolt with a large washer?
@@SteveHarrell Ouch. The dilemma is whether the rivet will spread wide enough to not deform the wood. If the wood is soft, it might pull through or crack the wood. I do not think well nuts spread enough and you have to make a huge hole. If you want to proceed, get the largest rivet you can find to provide a significant amount of surface area. But, if I were you, I would abandon the project given the possible bad outcome.
Thank you for the reply. The potential problems you describe are just the things that made me start searching for a solution. Your expertise is just what I sought to make a decision. I think that I will try several sling options for carrying, starting with a smallish bicycle inner tube. @@KayakhacksFishing
It depends on the direction of force. If the pressure is sideways, I think they would if the force is reasonable. Maybe this video will help you decide - ruclips.net/video/whhaLSPU4zA/видео.html
What about rivnuts? I was thinking about using them so I can screw things into my kayak that won't be there all the time. Like my steering control for my trolling motor. When not in use I was thinking I could put a screw with a rubber washer to seal it.
@@KayakhacksFishing you can actually do it with a bolt, washer and a nut. Screw the bolt into the nut, screw the bolt into the rivnut then screw the hex nut and it will draw the rivnut in.
No, when you tighten the screw, the well nut locks in place. You never have to touch it from the inside. The downside is you have to drill a large hole to insert it.
I'd like to build a transom mount using HDPE, much like you did on an earlier video. Only in that video, you really didn't show how you attached the HDPE to the kayak, except to say you were using pre- existing holes. Do you think well nuts will anchor the HDPE enough to withstand the torque from a 30lb thrust motor?
If you have access to the area underneath where the mount will go, use regular bolts/washers/nuts. I would be reluctant to use well nuts since the force will lever them up.
@@KayakhacksFishing @Kayak Hacks Fishing Yeah that's gonna be tough. If you can look at the Sun Dolphin Journey 12 SS, it's so pointy on the end, I'd appreciate any design suggestions for a stern mounted transom. I may need to go with a side mount. If so, that would (at least) remove the need to figure out a hack for bringing the controls up front. But everything I've seen says side mounts create stability issues, especially when turning, so I'd really like a stern transom. I was also thinking of using toggle bolts, and maybe using some epoxy and gluing the transom.
@@kierangrimley6978 lol! Depends on the size of the fish! Remember, you will have the drag set on your reel, and that will take off much of the pressure.
@@KayakhacksFishing thank you. I just finished reading some reviews of some well nuts I bought, and came to the conclusion I should install the handle with them.
Rivets are easily drilled out with the same drill bit that you use to drill the hole. Just drill till the head comes off, stop, then tap the rest of the rivet out down into the kayak. Resulting in a smaller hole that can be easily repaired with a baking soda / super glue paste. But weld nuts and rivnuts are okay too... if you do use rivets and can’t find the marine ones, you can use the aluminum type that has a sealed bottom and dip it into silicone prior to setting... also make sure that the rivet is long enough to protrude abut an 1/8” or so into the kayak though the part to be attached for a proper set
Great video! I've started accessorizing my kayak and opted for the well nuts (and a dab of E 6000 glue) for my work. BTW, are those old BDUs in the background?
@@mdsf01 My service only included the Gulf War and my unit did not deploy. You have sacrificed MUCH more than I ever did! Thanks as Veteran's Day is around the corner.
@@KayakhacksFishing No need to compare. We all sacrifice in one way or another in service of a greater good. Whether as American or Canadian, as I am, I believe we can both agree that our countries have seen their fair share of conflict and should be proud to have served in the armed forces of our great nations. All the best to you as well on Veteran's Day (Remembrance Day up here in Canada).
Well nuts. I don't use rivets there weird. I avoid the use of thread cutting screws on anything I build or design either. And clamshells don't impress me. EM Designer/Drafter 12 yrs.
Each have their place. If you use the expanding rivets they're pretty strong. I agree I prefer well nuts when I can use them. FYI rivets are not permanent. You can drill out the center pin and they come right out.
I should have said that, thanks
@@KayakhacksFishing hi ho this might be what your looking for on ebay 292985745529 goodserviceli ebay seller
I like well nuts, and I even use them on my truck and car, when mounting lights and stuff. The rubber helps out with vibrations. Keep up the Great videos.
I like well nuts it seams to hold more weight. It also is more Waterproof.
I have used both over time. Do like the rivets but darn hard getting them out if a mistake and yes drill them out but can be a real pain and less water tight. So on boats, canoe I use the well nuts. Another good point you have made. Either way if you made a mistake wrong spot or whatever you still have a repair to do and the easier way is less frustrating. Tks
What's the easier way? Cheers 👍
Thanks great information! I’ve used both. I usually use the rivets but as you mentioned use the ones made for kayaks. The small straight ones just bulge and I’ve had them pull out several times, now I use the long ones that flare out into 3 wings. I add sealant to hole even if it has an O ring and have never had them fail, or water in my hull in rough conditions. Have a good one! 🎣
Perfect! Thanks
What type of sealant do you typically use?
ka as I used Marine silicone from Walmart, but have switched to E 6000 it really bonds well to almost anything. Have a good one! 👍
@@charlieboutin3341 Thanks Charlie. I just looked it up, and did a double-take. The packaging is nearly identical to Amazing GOOP, which I've used quite a bit in various formulations. I've heard it rumored that all the GOOP formulations are the exact same thing, and that's actually been reflected in my experience with multiple varieties. The same company makes E6000, and if I were a betting man, I may put down some money that E6000 is simply different packaging for the same product. Anyway, thanks very much for the help!
ka as I agree 100%! Goop, Shoe Goo and E 6000 seem exactly the same. Can’t believe the packaging all look the same too. We used E 6000 on racing jet ski engine bolts, they might loosen, but wouldn’t spin off. I use them all for lots of projects. 👍👍 Best wishes!
Rivets can be easily removed.
Just drill it out.
Very good explanation, exactly what I was looking for to know the difference from a well nut to a regular lock nut and use compared to a rivet.
When adding some accessories to the grandson's kayak I initially ord'd some well nuts and pop rivets. Once I rec'd the order and thought about the size of the hole needed to install them, I opted to use the pop rivets. After that decision I had to go to Lowe's and buy a pop rivet gun. Not a cheap tool if you get a decent one.
To ensure water-tight integrity I put a dab of silicone sealant around the drilled hole prior to installing the item, then put a dab of it in the center of the pop rivet head where the tool breaks the rivet off.
Good points! Thanks
I like to use well nuts because they have a bigger hold on the kayak. Also as you said if you change items it’s a lot easier. Thanks for the video.
One problem with a well but that you forgot to mention in this and other videos on well nut usage that you have do.......a well nuts upper rubber ring does not allow for flat surfaces to be drawn down to the base material 100%. Although well nuts do make for a great water tight seal any item with a flat surface will have some minor wobble. You can use a bead of o silicone sealant around the items being secured base perimeter to help in reducing the wobble if needed.
Rivets if able to be used will always provide a more secure joining of materials. But as you have pointed out.... Well nuts provide the opportunity to change your mind or utilize change out object. Into the same position.
Thank and keep up the great video. I greatly appreciate your varied subjects of your instruction. Thanks again.
Dennis G.
Well said Dennis.
Great point! Thanks
@pcwhitmire I apply silicone around the base of the object being secured with a well nut. Once the silicone dries it helps fill the void between the deck and the object being secured. Acting as a washer or shim. The well nuts rubber surface prevents total contact between deck and object being secured. Application of silicone is done after object is secured thus filling the void and once dried it creates a more stable connection.
Great video. I feel like neither is really that permanent, and if you change your mind on either well nut or rivet, you still have a hole. I think I'm going to go rivet, and if it needs to be a "better" hold, I will enlarge the holes for a well nut.
Well said!
Great video. I will use well nuts
Very clear explanation. Thank you
You are welcome!
I was going to use a drywall screw like a Alligator AF5 but well nuts are a better option. Thanks for the tip!
Great video. I'm new to adding things to my kayak but wondered why a person wouldnt use a S/S machine screw and locknut, with washers on each side (assuming you can get at the nut of course)
You could if you can get to both sides.
if you can get to both sides that is what most people recommend.
Your videos are so well done. Many thanks!
Glad you like them!
Excellent video. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I like rivets they are smaller on the underside, profile and like the video said in required hole. They are also easier to use and not over tighten. Well nuts are more expensive and may hold more weight but can come loose. I will stick with rivets.
I agree and would use rivets if I can get a good connection
trick to prevent loosing from vibration use light strength Loctite or equivalent on the screw or bolt
@@KayakhacksFishing Are well nuts stronger than rivets? I would have thought the opposite. I'm looking to install some extra handles on my kayak for help with loading it on the car. There will be a lot of yanking and twisting force on them. Would a well nut be a better option for this?
@@dunkshot32 I would always use rivets instead of well nuts if I could get my rivet gun in position. On utility tracks, it will not fit. I would recommend rivets for your handles.
Thanks sir I never knew about this.
Happy to help
Good POV. Thx!
great video , thank you
Glad it was helpful!
I always enjoy your videos, very helpful and to the point.
Thanks! Appreciate it!
very informative. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Cool. Thanks
Good job, you got there👍😄
Thank for the info
You bet
Whenever you said well nuts, I thought of walnuts! 🤣
John Klopp lol or my nutslol
🤣🤣
I thought, "Well, nuts!"
Because that's how I feel. I think I need bigger, better rivets.
Very helpful video👍🏽
I have well nuts and rivets. replacing the handles is much easier with well nuts since I can't get the rivets out to put on the new handles
hi ho you can buy a rubber plug that looks like a riverts and pushes in sealing hole
Where can you buy?
@@ratherbfishing455 i normal find them on ebay you are looking for the rubber feet for radios / electronics there small one that can be used as plugs
@@coachman290651 Thank you! I have a leak where a bungee cord is attached and do not want to have it welded again.
I’ll have to look for those
Couple of things I'd like to add. First rivets can be removed. It's not that much fun but you can remove them either by carefully grinding off their head or simply drilling through the fastening shaft. As they are generally made out of aluminum they drill out fairly easily. Another point is that it's often a good idea after inserting the rivet into the hole to run it through the aluminum washers that are sold for this use as this spreads the stress over a larger area.
Great points! Thanks
Could you please explain this further. I'm having a hard time visualizing where the washer goes after you insert the rivet in the hole. TIA
@@davidaggies131 this video should explain - ruclips.net/video/WlZwaN68HJE/видео.html
As always Great video! 🙂 Interested in a video on how to choose the correct well nut for the job. 😃 Also, when using well nuts for T track what type of bolt would you use so it would be flat (recessed hole) against the t track? Thanks.
I use the flat head screws. A size 10 seems to fit well. If it ends up being to large for the T Track you get, try a size 8
Thanks
Seems like the easiest repair would be to remove the accessory and close the hole with a new rivet or well nut. Maybe a little silicone for good measure.
Thinking of adding outriggers to my kayak. Any videos on that?
lol! I made a video on how NOT to do it - ruclips.net/video/IkJHnblSpBg/видео.html Any solution based on that concept is a bad idea!
Yeah. I watched that one
Thank you so much good information 👍😎
Wellnuts will leave a spike on the inside of your kayak which means that when you are storing stuff for a trip or using buoyancy bags the end of the screw can tear your bags. Just an important point to remember
Good point!
Which is stronger? Like if I wanted to add side handles to my kayak to carry it which would be stronger to hold the wright?
I think a heavy-duty rivet would work best. But, there is no perfect solution to mount high stress attachments in a place where you cannot reach to use a nut and bolt.
As others have said the best choice depends on situation. If you can access the area then always use a stainless bolt+washer+nylon locknut. If you cannot access the area then you have three choices: Tri-fold rivets, bolt+rubber wellnuts, self-tapping screws. For light load screws are fine and provide a nice seal. I think the wellnut provide superior seal over rivets but a bit of silicone on the rivet application will work great. While I have not experienced it, others have complained of popping a wellnut. However, it can be easily replaced and I believe would be more forgiving over popping a rivet which could cause some damage. In summary to with bolt and nylon nut when possible otherwise pick your favorite.
Excellent points and good advice - thanks!
Thank you for the video
You're welcome
You mentioned using the proper size of well nut so that you get a good spread, what you did not mention was how do you measure to know you have a long enough well nut? More is obviously better, but can there be too much (too long)?
I do not think you can have one that is too long.
How do you know right size drill bit to use for well nut? No directions on paddle holder.
I use a size a hair smaller than the rubber insert
From South Africa, where can I look for a wide variety of Well Nut sizes?
I would hope any hardware store would have them
What about attaching kayak handles to a carbon fiber kayak,
I do not have experience with carbon fiber - I can't give an opinion. Sorry!
Sorry for the jumbled wording , my in phone secretary has trouble with spelling and tends to change some wording..... But.....you get the jist of the message.👍
Any wicking problems w/ fasteners ? Not it will freeze, unless you're in Alaska, okay I take that back. Then Selant and Loctite on the threads.
I have not seen any wicking yet.
Well, in my case I am dealing with a blow molded sit on top Kayak, with no hand acces underneath to reach and hold the nut. The only option is to use the rivet with an O ring precventing water leak
Actually, inserting well nuts requires no access to the bottom.
For proper well nut use do you need to drill out the gear trac so you can push the well nut into the trac or do you use the well nut simply as a backing nut on the inside of the kayak or can you get well nuts that will fit the size and depth needed for the hole already in the trac?
This is getting nutty and I hope I am on track.
The rubber part goes under the track. The bolt head should be big enough to grab the track ... no washer needed
Great video, but you stated you can't rivet inside of close spaces - which isn't exactly true. It's just more difficult. If you buy (or easily build) an offset tool, one can create an offset for your rivet gun to press against that will allow you to rivet inside of close in spaces where your rivet tool cannot reach. The offset tool will allow you to get purchase on the mandrel of the rivet and be flush with the head of the rivet gun.
Thanks for that tip!
while it is possible to drill out rivets, if the parent material is soft, HDPE plastic, there is most likely it can damage the hole. and become unusable or require repair.
Yes, the heat will melt the plastic if you are not careful
I just acquired a stitch and glue wooden kayak that has no carry handles. Any thoughts about which method to use (well nuts or rivets)?
For an HDPE kayak recommend large flange rivets since they will spread out more on the inside of the kayak. You want the smallest hole with the greatest grip. Now, wood is different. Couldn't you just use a bolt with a large washer?
I would use a bolt but it is not accessible (both ends of a closed 15'9" boat)@@KayakhacksFishing
@@SteveHarrell Ouch. The dilemma is whether the rivet will spread wide enough to not deform the wood. If the wood is soft, it might pull through or crack the wood. I do not think well nuts spread enough and you have to make a huge hole. If you want to proceed, get the largest rivet you can find to provide a significant amount of surface area. But, if I were you, I would abandon the project given the possible bad outcome.
Thank you for the reply. The potential problems you describe are just the things that made me start searching for a solution. Your expertise is just what I sought to make a decision. I think that I will try several sling options for carrying, starting with a smallish bicycle inner tube. @@KayakhacksFishing
Do you think well nuts would be strong enough to hold a visor on a pickup?
It depends on the direction of force. If the pressure is sideways, I think they would if the force is reasonable. Maybe this video will help you decide - ruclips.net/video/whhaLSPU4zA/видео.html
What about rivnuts? I was thinking about using them so I can screw things into my kayak that won't be there all the time. Like my steering control for my trolling motor. When not in use I was thinking I could put a screw with a rubber washer to seal it.
They should work even better. I did not want to buy the tool to try it.
@@KayakhacksFishing you can actually do it with a bolt, washer and a nut. Screw the bolt into the nut, screw the bolt into the rivnut then screw the hex nut and it will draw the rivnut in.
@@craveman85 Thanks! I will try that
I’m trying to install Scotty outriggers, which one do you think would be a stronger hold?
I think rivets like these would work better - amzn.to/2PxDdfh
Which one is more secure/can handle more force exerted on it?
The expanding rivets should hold more - like these - amzn.to/32X3F9L
Also, use a backup rivet washer - amzn.to/2RQNww5
So a downside to well nuts is access from inside the kayak to set the nut?
No, when you tighten the screw, the well nut locks in place. You never have to touch it from the inside. The downside is you have to drill a large hole to insert it.
I'd like to build a transom mount using HDPE, much like you did on an earlier video. Only in that video, you really didn't show how you attached the HDPE to the kayak, except to say you were using pre- existing holes. Do you think well nuts will anchor the HDPE enough to withstand the torque from a 30lb thrust motor?
If you have access to the area underneath where the mount will go, use regular bolts/washers/nuts. I would be reluctant to use well nuts since the force will lever them up.
@@KayakhacksFishing @Kayak Hacks Fishing Yeah that's gonna be tough. If you can look at the Sun Dolphin Journey 12 SS, it's so pointy on the end, I'd appreciate any design suggestions for a stern mounted transom. I may need to go with a side mount. If so, that would (at least) remove the need to figure out a hack for bringing the controls up front. But everything I've seen says side mounts create stability issues, especially when turning, so I'd really like a stern transom. I was also thinking of using toggle bolts, and maybe using some epoxy and gluing the transom.
@@chrisbray3236 All I can suggest is to look around for a video or blog post that includes your kayak.
Rivets for one and nuts for the other as they just as good as one another depending on the job
Yep
Get video explanation. Thank you sir.
Tri fold rivets for plastic
Good point!
you can remove rivets by drilling them out with a drill bit.
Yes. I should have mentioned that
Which one would be stronger for attaching rod holders
Get the good quality rivets like these - amzn.to/2ILOXdG
@@KayakhacksFishing would they be strong enough for trolling rod holders
@@kierangrimley6978 lol! Depends on the size of the fish! Remember, you will have the drag set on your reel, and that will take off much of the pressure.
Which would you use for a carrying handle on a heavy kayak?
Ouch. I do not think either would work well. If I had to chose, I would go with a heavy duty rivit.
@@KayakhacksFishing thank you. I just finished reading some reviews of some well nuts I bought, and came to the conclusion I should install the handle with them.
@@TheMechdez Please let me know how it goes!
@@KayakhacksFishing I meant to say shouldn't. Lol
Would help if had close ups. We cant see the example.
Sorry about that.
Rivets are easily drilled out with the same drill bit that you use to drill the hole. Just drill till the head comes off, stop, then tap the rest of the rivet out down into the kayak. Resulting in a smaller hole that can be easily repaired with a baking soda / super glue paste.
But weld nuts and rivnuts are okay too... if you do use rivets and can’t find the marine ones, you can use the aluminum type that has a sealed bottom and dip it into silicone prior to setting... also make sure that the rivet is long enough to protrude abut an 1/8” or so into the kayak though the part to be attached for a proper set
Thanks for those points!
Great video! I've started accessorizing my kayak and opted for the well nuts (and a dab of E 6000 glue) for my work.
BTW, are those old BDUs in the background?
lol! Yes - 20 years in the Field Artillery!
@@KayakhacksFishing Nice! Getting close to 30 years in Intel for me :)
Thanks for your videos. Keep well!
@@mdsf01 My service only included the Gulf War and my unit did not deploy. You have sacrificed MUCH more than I ever did! Thanks as Veteran's Day is around the corner.
@@KayakhacksFishing No need to compare. We all sacrifice in one way or another in service of a greater good.
Whether as American or Canadian, as I am, I believe we can both agree that our countries have seen their fair share of conflict and should be proud to have served in the armed forces of our great nations.
All the best to you as well on Veteran's Day (Remembrance Day up here in Canada).
Personally prefer well nuts
Well nuts. I don't use rivets there weird. I avoid the use of thread cutting screws on anything I build or design either. And clamshells don't impress me. EM Designer/Drafter 12 yrs.
thanks for your opinion
Riveting discussion.
Sorry.
I always look forward to your comments!
Good afternoon brother, set the hook brother.