I machine sharpen a lot of magnacut. Before that, I spent years sharpening s35vn. It is harder to deburr magnacut. I think one factor may be that magnacut's extra toughness causes the burrs to be tougher and harder to break off. .
Good stuff Justin, really enjoyed the video :) I also love the jump from the 400 to 3K on the super vitrified stones, but if I'm going to finish on the 3k, I deburr first on the 400 and then move on, then the struggle with the burr on the 3k is very minimal to non-existent. The final cleaning is done with a couple of light and quick strokes on the strop to remove whatever might be left from the burr, then a few slower strokes to refine the finish. Crisp these edges 👊
I can get away with minimal deburring off the 400 with other jumps to say a Shapton Pro 5K or Chosera 3K so that's what I'm comparing to. I tend not to like deburring on the 400 because I have a tendency to miss my angle and put a good microbevel in the egde. That comes all down to skill and practice but I've been rewarded for my laziness so far!
@@EngineersPerspective701 Lazyness is too often overlooked when it comes to sharpening ;) Getting good results with less stones and progression comes only with practice and the desire to do less 😂
Another great video, thx for the entertainment, I'm a recent subscriber and I really like your demeanor. I agree with Tamir that you should de-burr on the 400 then hit the 3k, vitrified diamond stones leave a legendary burr on everything, especially below #800.You said it yourself at 15:04 "You should have set yourself up better in your main sharpening if more then 3 passes on the 1micron strop is required" That being said, I hope this comment doesn't read as "harsh", I really enjoyed the video and the edge is still killer, simply thought to second some good constructive criticism that will definitely improve your 3k performance.
I 100% agree. I mentioned earlier that I let it get bigger than I preferred so I didn't help my cause! I actually have really good luck going from the 400super vit to a chosera 3k without deburring between so I was hoping I could get away with the laziness. Also I don't love deburring on the 400 super vit because it's super easy to miss my angle and microbevel the edge.
Late to the party so this might not be seen; but I am going to ask anyway. Is there a reason (steel (type/hardness), stone, or because it's a kitchen knife) that you didn't joint the burr off before the finishing strokes? Thanks for the work you put into these videos, I always learn something. 👏
Great question! Really the only scenario I tend to joint is for knives that I struggle to get the burr off. Sometimes steels and their heat treats just have a temperamental burr that doesn’t want to come off cleanly.
It certainly does. It’s an incredibly well done 61HRc but that and a blade profile that I wish was a bit flatter are my only two quibbles on the blade.
Idk what you are talking about.. firstly he doesn't make them so calling it tripple b stones is funny. secondly I order 2 stones yesterday.. Asked the sellers when they have them in stock few weeks back and yesterday they got the 400 and 1k in and now I wait till they come in. Maybe don't deal with a reseller
Enjoyed the video. I had been wondering what it was about the other stones that kept drawing you to them. I have the 1000 grit BBB stone in addition to the 2 you have and for some reason it gave me trouble at first unlike the other 2 and I avoided it for a while. However, now it seems to work great so who knows, I could imagine some factors but that's all it would be, my imagination at work.
I don’t think they offer super vit diamond stones. They’re resin bonded stones are supposed to be quite good but still have the same drawbacks on the Venevs. I think their non-abrasive bonding and grit classification is better. If you’re looking for some of the best diamond stones then they are a good buy. The Venevs will get you most of the way there for a fraction of the cost though.
Love the look of some MKC hunting blades but the kitchen knives not so much. There is a lot of design elements that don’t resonate with me on them and not sure if they’re good ideas.
I only use “pass” verbiage when I’m doing single full strokes across the stone. So like 3 passes per side edge trailing would be 6 full sweeps of the edge across the stone in a stropping motion. Hope that answers the question!
Yeah I’m not 100% sure. Sky high toughness and faster to move steel with alumina based stones I guess? It’s far and away my biggest criticism of the knife. The fine edge just doesn’t hold up like SG2 or hard blue steel does.
It depends on the knife and use case what the optimal hardness is. For this knife it would probably be closer to 64-65 due to the relatively low need for toughness. You can find a video from Larrin that talks about heat treating magnacut. I would assume the maker either wasn't super comfortable with the steel or wanted the grinding for themselves to be easier.
First, never build a larger burr. all yhou are accomplishing is throwing fine steel down the drain. You didn't mention what the strop was loaded with. I like to go from three thou. Matrix Diamond stone, (Veneve marked F-800 7/5 micron is ansi 2800 for instance) straight to 1 to .5 micron strop. Any corser and you destroy the fine tooth edge the 3000 stone imparted to the steel. Try Trend sharpening fluid. Most only know Trend as a less costly diamond stone manufacturer. It is in truth a very large machine tool manufacturer n the U.K that makes very high quality machine tools. Their fluid leaves NO metal contamination in the stone. Simply rubbing the stone with your fingertips with the fluid when finished will remove it all in seconds. Something even the highly rated Gunny cannot do. It also gives a superior bit on the stone. KnifeMaker-47 years in the Custom Knife Trade, Retired now.
I agree with "never build a larger burr" it's going to get to the "I need thinning point" faster then it could have; however, he mentions at 2:00 that he's going to finish using a 1 micron diamond-pasted strop, exactly what you suggested.
Agreed on burr management. Mentioned in the video I let it get bigger than I prefer. Like the idea of having a compound good for slurries on the stones so I'll have to check them out.
I machine sharpen a lot of magnacut. Before that, I spent years sharpening s35vn. It is harder to deburr magnacut. I think one factor may be that magnacut's extra toughness causes the burrs to be tougher and harder to break off.
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Good stuff Justin, really enjoyed the video :)
I also love the jump from the 400 to 3K on the super vitrified stones, but if I'm going to finish on the 3k, I deburr first on the 400 and then move on, then the struggle with the burr on the 3k is very minimal to non-existent. The final cleaning is done with a couple of light and quick strokes on the strop to remove whatever might be left from the burr, then a few slower strokes to refine the finish.
Crisp these edges 👊
I can get away with minimal deburring off the 400 with other jumps to say a Shapton Pro 5K or Chosera 3K so that's what I'm comparing to. I tend not to like deburring on the 400 because I have a tendency to miss my angle and put a good microbevel in the egde. That comes all down to skill and practice but I've been rewarded for my laziness so far!
@@EngineersPerspective701 Lazyness is too often overlooked when it comes to sharpening ;)
Getting good results with less stones and progression comes only with practice and the desire to do less 😂
Another great video, thx for the entertainment, I'm a recent subscriber and I really like your demeanor.
I agree with Tamir that you should de-burr on the 400 then hit the 3k, vitrified diamond stones leave a legendary burr on everything, especially below #800.You said it yourself at 15:04 "You should have set yourself up better in your main sharpening if more then 3 passes on the 1micron strop is required"
That being said, I hope this comment doesn't read as "harsh", I really enjoyed the video and the edge is still killer, simply thought to second some good constructive criticism that will definitely improve your 3k performance.
I 100% agree. I mentioned earlier that I let it get bigger than I preferred so I didn't help my cause! I actually have really good luck going from the 400super vit to a chosera 3k without deburring between so I was hoping I could get away with the laziness. Also I don't love deburring on the 400 super vit because it's super easy to miss my angle and microbevel the edge.
Late to the party so this might not be seen; but I am going to ask anyway.
Is there a reason (steel (type/hardness), stone, or because it's a kitchen knife) that you didn't joint the burr off before the finishing strokes?
Thanks for the work you put into these videos, I always learn something. 👏
Great question!
Really the only scenario I tend to joint is for knives that I struggle to get the burr off. Sometimes steels and their heat treats just have a temperamental burr that doesn’t want to come off cleanly.
Magnacut at 61 probably leaves a little on the table performance wise.
It certainly does. It’s an incredibly well done 61HRc but that and a blade profile that I wish was a bit flatter are my only two quibbles on the blade.
Very nice Job man
Thanks
It's super annoying how the Triple B stones are hard to come by :) I wish other companies would make this type of stones.
We all do! But it’s also amazing that they were even bright into existence at all so I’m just grateful for that.
Idk what you are talking about..
firstly he doesn't make them so calling it tripple b stones is funny.
secondly I order 2 stones yesterday..
Asked the sellers when they have them in stock few weeks back and yesterday they got the 400 and 1k in and now I wait till they come in.
Maybe don't deal with a reseller
Im guessing the 3k is like the 16k shapton glass where it will create burrs for no reason and then crush them ruining your progress.
Enjoyed the video. I had been wondering what it was about the other stones that kept drawing you to them. I have the 1000 grit BBB stone in addition to the 2 you have and for some reason it gave me trouble at first unlike the other 2 and I avoided it for a while. However, now it seems to work great so who knows, I could imagine some factors but that's all it would be, my imagination at work.
I do need to just get more time at it. I'm still in the avoiding stage that you pushed through!
Quick question. What do you think of the naniwa super vitrified diamond stones?
I don’t think they offer super vit diamond stones. They’re resin bonded stones are supposed to be quite good but still have the same drawbacks on the Venevs. I think their non-abrasive bonding and grit classification is better.
If you’re looking for some of the best diamond stones then they are a good buy. The Venevs will get you most of the way there for a fraction of the cost though.
Do you have any experience with the 1k? Ive got the 400 and looking st the 1k and 3k
I do not. I’m sure it’s a beast but I can’t speak to specifics
What your favorite kitchen knife looking at megilo and montana knife company in magnacut ?
Love the look of some MKC hunting blades but the kitchen knives not so much. There is a lot of design elements that don’t resonate with me on them and not sure if they’re good ideas.
So what is considered one pass on the stone?
I only use “pass” verbiage when I’m doing single full strokes across the stone. So like 3 passes per side edge trailing would be 6 full sweeps of the edge across the stone in a stropping motion. Hope that answers the question!
I don't understand using super steel without optimal heat treat. What's the point of magnacut at under 63hrc?
Yeah I’m not 100% sure. Sky high toughness and faster to move steel with alumina based stones I guess? It’s far and away my biggest criticism of the knife. The fine edge just doesn’t hold up like SG2 or hard blue steel does.
It depends on the knife and use case what the optimal hardness is. For this knife it would probably be closer to 64-65 due to the relatively low need for toughness. You can find a video from Larrin that talks about heat treating magnacut.
I would assume the maker either wasn't super comfortable with the steel or wanted the grinding for themselves to be easier.
"Promosm" 🌷
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First, never build a larger burr. all yhou are accomplishing is throwing fine steel down the drain.
You didn't mention what the strop was loaded with. I like to go from three thou. Matrix Diamond stone, (Veneve marked F-800 7/5 micron is ansi 2800 for instance) straight to 1 to .5 micron strop. Any corser and you destroy the fine tooth edge the 3000 stone imparted to the steel.
Try Trend sharpening fluid. Most only know Trend as a less costly diamond stone manufacturer. It is in truth a very large machine tool manufacturer n the U.K that makes very high quality machine tools. Their fluid leaves NO metal contamination in the stone. Simply rubbing the stone with your fingertips with the fluid when finished will remove it all in seconds. Something even the highly rated Gunny cannot do. It also gives a superior bit on the stone.
KnifeMaker-47 years in the Custom Knife Trade, Retired now.
I agree with "never build a larger burr" it's going to get to the "I need thinning point" faster then it could have; however, he mentions at 2:00 that he's going to finish using a 1 micron diamond-pasted strop, exactly what you suggested.
Alright loveless
Agreed on burr management. Mentioned in the video I let it get bigger than I prefer. Like the idea of having a compound good for slurries on the stones so I'll have to check them out.