Why Cheap Tools Can Be Good
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- What's the biggest mistake Adam Savage made while working in model making? If Adam had to skimp on the cost of a tool, which tool would that be and why? In this live stream excerpt Adam answers these questions from Tested members @Silver Defender and @aussiemaker39, whom we thank for their support. Join this channel to support Tested and get access to perks, like asking Adam a question:
/ @tested
Adam Savage's upcoming events: www.tested.com...
Adam Savage Ts: tested-store.com/
Subscribe for more videos (and click the bell for notifications): www.youtube.com...
Tested and Adam Savage Ts, stickers, (de) merit badges and more: tested-store.com
About Tested: www.tested.com...
Meet Adam in Person: www.tested.com...
TikTok: / testedcom
Instagram: / testedcom
Twitter: / testedcom
Facebook: / testedcom
Discord: / discord
Amazon Storefront: www.amazon.com/...
Intro bumper by Abe Dieckman
Thanks for watching!
Whenever I start a project or hobby that requires new tools I get a relatively cheap set. When a part of that set breaks that means I use it a lot and replace it with a high quality one. The rest is usually good enough for the occasional use.
I have a similar philosophy about tools (or toys) when I'm starting a new endeavor. I get the cheapest thing I can that I'm reasonably confident will not punish me for trying. (E.g. a $15 guitar will crush just about anybody's desire to learn to play.) Then I learn and practice with that until I either get bored and quit, or get good enough to understand its limitations and start shopping for a better one.
Yeah, same. My philosophy is much like Adams. If I'm adding a new tool to my toolbox, I'll buy the cheapest one I can to see if it's actually useful and whether I use it a lot. When I break or outgrow that one, I can buy a better version that will last. Having and using the tool will teach you what's important too. I bought the cheapest table saw I could find, used it for quite a while, and when it came time to upgrade I went looking for the one in the size class I was buying with the biggest rip capacity. Owning the cheap one taught me that that rip capacity was the limitation I ran into most often. The one exception to "cheapest possible" is cordless tools. I'm already fairly heavily invested in a reasonably cheap battery system (Ryobi), so instead of buying a really cheap cordless tool and getting into a new battery system, I'll usually buy the Ryobi instead.
@@daveh7720 "the cheapest thing that won't punish me for trying." I love this phrasing, and it rolls into your later point I agree with as well about using that first purchase to "teach me what I don't know" about the tool or toy yet as well, so that I can make informed decisions of what factors inform the shopping for the next one to ensure I''ll like it.
I usually go fairly middle of the road when buying new tools.
Knowing that the increases of returns in quality level off, yet prices rise exponentially.
So it's about finding that sweet spot where you get the most bang for your buck.
And usually, it really does not matter if I pay 5 bucks for something or 50.
Even at minimum wage, that's less than a day's work.
And if a tool wouldn't save me that much time or money, I wouldn't be buying it in the first place :)
Also, I've found that avoiding the cheaper tools usually ends up saving me a lot of frustration, tinkering, returning to the store to get better tools (and thus not just money but loads of time!), and occasionally even (harmless but annoying) injuries.
So far, I'd absolutely say that I occasionally learned what to look out for next time.
But I've also almost never actually had to buy something again.
Usually, I just got the better version of something that was still usable, simply because the cheaper version had some kind of (lacking) feature that annoyed me.
To be fair, this is about basic household tools.
If I ever got to spend on bigger ticket items, the cheapest test version sounds very smart!
(except for table saws - I'd _always_ want one that bricks itself instantly if it senses flesh)
This is the way 👌
Top Gears Richard Hammond taught me a life lesson in one episode. Buy the 2nd cheapest wine. I have taken that to heart my entire life. If you are gonna go cheep buy the 2nd cheapest. I also do this on the inverse, go with 2nd place. Go with the second best. It has done me wonders and saved a penny or two
Hamster can't keep the shiny side up, I go with James May's OCD everytime.
"Go with second-best" is pretty close to what I do for computer hardware. I don't buy the top end. It's always stupid-expensive. The second and third from the top will be considerably less expensive, not that much slower, and will meet my needs for years to come. Enough so that I usually end up replacing it after it fails, rather than upgrading it because I want something faster.
Theres a RUclips channel that compares a product by like 5 different manufacturers so if your unsure which to buy its worth watching a video on it to compare can i get away with 2nd or 3rd rather than cheapest
Usually the sweet spot of cost quality it´s on the margin between "the good of the cheep ones" and "the cheep of the good ones"
@@Kearnesyprojectfarm?
I do love Adam's stories on early projects....
I agree with you and another commentator. Start out with a cheap set of tools. If you use something enough to break it or wear it out, replace it with the best you can afford at that point. Some things in a set you may never use, in which case their quality is irrelevant, and the less you've wasted on them the better. What you use regularly may be worth upgrading for the aesthetic pleasure they may give in use.
The above advice does not apply to jack stands or hoists. :-)*
Or anything else that is likely to cause serious injury or death when it fails. PFDs (life jackets) are also one where you don't skimp.
Also, even when you buy quality, know how to inspect it for problems, do so regularly (ideally before each use), and if you find one, _do not use it_, even if you have to delay things to get a proper replacement. If a delay is unacceptable, keep spares on hand.
Rope, cable, and chain often are in this category, depending on the intended use.
The same goes for most art supplies. If you're learning to draw, all you need is "something to draw with" and "something to draw on" - better tools will be nicer to use, and an experienced artist might get a lot out of them, but when you're starting out it makes almost no difference. What's important is to practice often to build up the muscle memory to make the right lines, and skills you need to properly "see" which lines to make - you only get that with time and effort.
Since fancy tools won't make much of a difference, you might as well use the cheapest stuff you can get, so you can output a lot of volume without worrying about the cost, then when you've developed your skills you can upgrade your stuff and really appreciate what you're getting when you do it.
(exception, don't use cheap colour pencils - they're basically a scam)
Cheap tools can be modified without worry. Many years ago I need a couple of wrenchs for tight spaces. I bought a cheap set and heated them with a torch and bent them to the shape/angle required.
I keep some cheap ones around for precisely this. Nothing beats making your own tool instead of having to go buy one or wait for one that you've ordered.
Adam: “Every tool’s a hammer”. Dude with a grinder and a welder: “Every tool’s whatever you want it to be”
This plus they are the loner tools! They can be the tool you lone to that person we all know that either doesnt return stuff or breaks/messes them up.
@@mromutt Yes....especially if you have kids or nephews...or nieces
@@drmodestoesq haha I specifically had my nephew in mind when I said that
Its important to have tools you'll own forever and tools you don't mind replacing. There are some jobs you just don't want to do with a tool you'll have forever.
I had a very expensive wristwatch, lost it, and bought an el-cheapo $5 replacement to get me to the weekend - until I could go shopping for a decent one. That el-cheapo stayed on my wrist for 20 years and never broke.
There are a few things I have, that are useful and used regularly, that every time I use them, I'm reminded of how great an investment in it was.
You can get a highly accurate and reliable quartz digital watch for like $10 that would have sold for thousands in the early 70s
I noticed Adam is wearing an Omega Speedmaster, which is a 6 to $7,000 watch. I have a Planet Ocean, which costs about the same. I love nice watches.
Here is the thing with wrist watches. When they had gears and needed to be wound up, you had to spend a good amount of money to get one that kept the time accurately. Once digital with batteries came along, time could be kept at a low cost accurately. Wrist watches are now a piece of jewelry
Adam, next time you see a tool that claims to be "mil-spec", remember that the food that is served in an army mess hall is made to "mil-spec"
One of the only places on earth you can be served "rare" chicken and be unable to send it back for food safety reasons.
after spending over a decade in the military i can confirm that mil-spec is just another way of saying 'this is the cheapest, crappest quality item we can get away with'. its the opposite of quality.
Kinda like the boast that their tool or material is "contractor grade."
The American Civil War was a perfect example of that. If your commanding officer came from a rich family he often bought better equipment for his men with his own money.
"Mil-spec" means "the cheapest thing that an 18-year-old can't break"
I'm an artist working with pencil, ink, colour pencil.
I've found over the years that it's *really* important to me to have good quality colour pencils, if you try to colour or shade any work with cheap pencils, it's impossible to get good results. I feel bad for all those kids who are given cheap pencils that don't lay the pigment down well, and conclude they suck at art because they can't make anything look nice.
I really value good quality pigment liners for my ink work. Cheap ones tend to crack and spit ink around, or they have inconsistent line width, or they wear out fast, or they're not properly black. Using a Uni Pin or a Derwent Line Maker makes a big difference.
When it comes to the pencil I use for construction lines... it really doesn't matter much. Of course you can use a blackwing, or an expensive mechanical pencil (and I use an expensive mechanical pencil). But, if I use a cheap unbranded knockoff pencil, so long as I can get it sharp and the lead isn't shattered to bits, I can sketch out those initial lines fine with basically anything. Hell, Adam uses papermate mechanical pencils (and I think those are garbage!) but they get the job done, you could live out of that if you had to.
---
I think it's great to ask experts where to spend your money on tools, because some of them you need quality to use well, and some of them it's just a little quality of life.
Id love to see Adam do a series where he retries old builds like this, remaking them knowing what he does now.
If i remember correctly, from the full story, the machine included a pitching machine to toss the balls, but it was turned down insanely low. Adam later learned its near impossible for a machine like that to accurately toss balls which is what caused the problems. He got paid in full and the suits in charge didn't even bother to use it in the end. "heres your check, we dont like the idea anymore, throw it away" type thing.
Is there a video of this on the interviews?
@@pr0xZen hes told the full story in a few videos, I cant find the one I want, but he covers more of the story in "defcon 17 - adam savage - failure"
@@pr0xZen and also mentioned parts of it in "how old navy indirectly led to mythbusters pilot" about 2 months ago.
@@pr0xZen also talks about it in the video titled - Adam Savage: Colossal Failures [Fora TV] [Maker's Faire 2009] [Brilliant Talk]
We have a “Re-use-it” store in our town. It has three different stores, one is used furniture, one old stuff like binders and another of old tools. Drawers of old sockets, screwdrivers and other such wonderfulness.
I remember this story because of the balls in tubes vs balls on rails detail. I appreciate getting to learn on your behalf!
Join this channel to support Tested and get access to perks, like asking Adam a question:
ruclips.net/channel/UCiDJtJKMICpb9B1qf7qjEOAjoin
Adam Savage's upcoming events: www.tested.com/events
Adam Savage Ts: tested-store.com/
But my Snap On tool truck rep told me that if I own any non-Snap On tools, I will not go to heaven.
I love the way a commercial for Harbor Freight popped up directly after this video. My wife calls it “The Dollar Tool Store”! Haha
Just the small fact about the rails with ball oscillation is fascinating. I'd love to hear tons of Adam's learned nuggets like that which only come up for specific scenarios!
I was very heavily into auto restoration and the old car hobby from 89 to 06, and then I got back into it in 2022. Cheap tools have a very real and very important (and quite prominently common) place in my tool box. Unless you're a pro, you will be using these tools as light duty. For reference, I would remove the engine and strip the front end sheet metal down to the frame in my 1970 convertible every spring, so I'm not talking about a couple of 10-32s once every few years. I built engines, did bodywork, replaced tops, reverse engineered badly made replacement parts, upholstery rewired harnesses...anyway. Harbor Freight is my friend. I don't spend my budget on shiny new pro tools. I buy used tools, like old Stanely socket wrenches, and cheap tool that I can cut up, bend, modify, and use up, and if I need specialty stuff, I look at what my local Harbor Freight has and I do a bit of research to see if it's crap or not. Most of the time it's actually good for the _light duty_ that I subject them to.
The other trick with tools is if you can find a workshop or makers group where you can rent or borrow a tool to try it.
I work in glass and the minimum tools are really simple, costing under $100 for a full set up, but even the advanced beginner tools can be in the thousands (but let you do things in 1% of the time or making designs available that are otherwise impossible). Having a local workshop that rents out shop time and kiln space meant that I was able to see just what I was really interested in for my set up before picking just the pieces that work best for me. AND I got bonus advice from those more experienced in the field and wiht those tools before buying ;D
"Why Cheap Tools Can Be Good" segment is super important i think as advice. Find the tool you want to try or see if it works for you BEFORE you splurge on the expensive one. You might lose out some 20 bucks or so BUT in return you know for a fact if something is an item you'll use or if it helps your work flow. I've recently done that with a few modelling tools like circle cutters, model-specific masking tape or other small tidbits and its amazing how much more efficient you can be with a tool thats realtively uniquely designed for your task. Dont be afraid of 2nd hand stuff either, because at least this way you can find out for yourself if an item is just a fancier "something else you have" or the ONE tool that you always needed.
I find the journey Adam had to get to this point in the prop making industry very interesting.
So I don't work with tools. I'm a political and economics analyst (I basically am trained to translate bullsh*t to muggle). But your first story resonated a lot with me, because while I've never built a Rube Goldberg machine, I have had to explain why limnic erruptions (look up Lake Nyos mass death event) qre a thing and could be an insurance nightmare in certain areas of the DRC and kinda got the point across... and got a bonus for but it wasn't what I wanted... it wasn't the standard I set myself, but I guess it was enough... I feel you.
Also I'm probably posting this one minute before my 35th birthday. I remember Mythbusters debuting in 2003. You, Jamie, and the team did an amazing job. 21 years later and you're still sharing a genunine love of learning and speaking about growing as a professional in a real way. Thank you ❤
Best thing I did was work at Harbor Freight while going to high school. I don't remember taking home a paycheck but I still have many of those tools. Currently working on that commission job, loosing sleep... All that glorious wisdom!
That word slip at the end is a good point for getting new tools. A 5 gallon bucket with a lid can be an alright toolbox/garbage can/chair for lunch time.
When I first started working as a mechanic I was not financially able to buy the best tools. When the other apprentices and trainees were spending their wages on the Snap-On van every week I couldn't begin to afford that, but I knew that quality tools were going to be a requirement so I started buying the cheapest tools and then whenever something broke I would replace that one tool with the equivalent from Snap-On. This meant I could build up a complete set of tools and do every job required of me and the tools that I used every day would be quality but when I needed a strange size socket or funny shaped spanner I still had the tools. What is funny is that when I open my socket drawer now I still have some of those cheap sockets that I bought as a first year and a part of me likes using them, knowing that when I was struggling in life they kept me in work and continue to serve me well. Now that I am time served and have my own apprentices it is a lesson I pass on to them, by all means buy a full set of Snap-On sockets if you can afford them but don't feel like you aren't good at your job if you have mismatched tools in your box.
Guys, get one of those cheap digital calipers for 5 bucks. Maybe 2 or 3, if your shop is big.
one of the tools I use most - just because it's always on hand and precise enough for most measurements.
My Mitutoyo digimatic calipers have paid for themselves in batteries I didn't have to replace. Because those cheap calipers just eat through batteries. I have a couple cheap pairs of calipers too so I know. But don't get counterfeit calipers. Get them from an authorized dealer. There are no deals to be had out there.
100% agree with this I have a drawer of Ryobi tools that I use every now and then. If I use it enough to break it, I upgrade.
I have a feeling his rig ran fine until the AC unit or Fridge or Microwave was called for which lead to more Amps being pulled. More amps pulled results in a minor loss in voltage. You may have seen your lights dim when the AC kicks on. This reduction in voltage, though minimal, probably slowed the pitching machine motor just enough to not get the ball where it needed to be. Something no one would have thought of without the hindsight resulting from the error.
I keep cheap tools around for friends and family because if they break a tool I’m not out a lot of money, cheap tools are also good for when your learning a new skill set or needing to take said tools onto a job site
The other thing that you gain when learning on a cheap tool is that you learn what you want in a good one. Be it a ergonomics, capacity, extra features, etc. Not only will v2.0 of that tool be of better quality in a broad sense, but it will be better for what you personally want it for.
I don’t necessarily buy cheap tools often, usually I’m given them or acquire through other means.
However I do have a lifetime supply of 46 and 36mm 3/4 impact sockets from a local railway project, I got a few buckets full of misc sockets as well.
My old man taught me through his bad example that it doesnt matter how much your tools cost if you cant find them when you need them!
Yes, the evolution of the maker budget. Year one you're like "holy crap $200 for one tool." Year 10 you're like "holy crap only $15k for this lathe."
I'm always amazed with Harbor Freight tools. They last way longer than I expect for that price difference 99.9% of the time.
I RELATE TO ADAM SO MUCH ,I HAVE TO KNOW HOW EVERYTHING WORKS,LOVE THIS GUY AND HIS KNOWLEDGE AND ADVICE 😎😎🇬🇧🇬🇧🤜🤛🇺🇸🇺🇸
A tool needs to do the job you intend to do with it, and stand up to your usage pattern. I don't always buy the cheapest option and upgrade when needed; I do some research first, and think about how and how often the tool is going to be used. For instance:
- SDS Hammer drill: cheapy Chinesium one: does the job, and I don't use it very often. It's starting to come apart... after 15 years. Good enough.
- 1/2" ratchet: a more expensive Gedore set. My experience with cheap ratchets has been terrible, and I expect this tool to see frequent and heavy use. Worth the extra money.
- Welder: got the 3-in-1 Parkside one and it works great. I don't do a lot of welding but the machine needs to work well when I need it. A few reviews convinced me this was the machine for me.
- Sanders: Festool ones. Frequent use, and I wanted quality and comfortable use, as well as excellent dust collection. These came highly recommended so I spent the extra cash on them.
I recently bought a nail gun and I wanted cordless, so I limited my choice to the 3 brands that I already had batteries for. I settled on a relatively expensive DeWalt gun, not because I expected heavy use, but because it had some features I might need in the future that the others lacked. Again, doing some thinking and research will (hopefully) save some money down the line.
I like having a mix of cheap tools and excellent tools. I treat the cheapies incredibly disrespectfully, which opens up options and creativity. To me they're more like disposable temporary power-ups, akin to potions in an RPG.
I don’t always start with a cheap tool. Sometimes it’s worthwhile to buy the good one right away. In my job we have a certain set of tools that get used daily and used hard. That’s where the Flukes and Milwaukees and the like come in. Others we use often, but are pretty light duty. Like the two specific nut drivers we use to remove and replace grounding nuts from circuit boards. They don’t have to be super skookum even though it might get pulled out 10 times a day. So the $10 set of Huskys from Home Depot are ok. If they wear out in a couple years it’s no big deal to get another set. Then there’s stuff that’s “I’ve been here 5 years and only needed this danged thing once.” The cheapest one that will actually complete the job will be just fine.
10 buckets was the highlight of this video 😂
I'll take a cheap version of the right tool any time over any version of the wrong one. I'm not going to use anything professionally so buying something like an aliexpress set of ratcheting crimpers makes such a huge difference to the quality and ease of my work versus trying to just trying to mash terminals on a wire with pliers again. The cheap availability of such a wide variety of tools has changed the game for hobby makers.
If time pressure isn't a huge factor, then buying second hand is often the best option, but remember there are far better places to buy second hand than Ebay or Craigslist. You'll often find quality gear changing hands in local clubs, makers groups, or online forums. You're less likely to be scammed, and the overall quality of tools for sale will likely be high.
6:04 I call this "growing into your tools."
There was a time in my life were I was fortunate enough to be provided a beautiful set of professional tools. And I quickly discovered that they were essentially useless to me because I didn't know how to use them. When I was presented with the problem that those tools were designed to solve with all the finesse and professionalism as the best F1 race team, I never thought to use the tool because I'd never learned how to use the tool. It didn't present itself as an option to me.
When you buy a tool, expect to have a learning curve to understand how to use it correctly, and when to use it at all. Buy the first tool to get the job done. Buy the second to get the job done right.
One comment about UK general elections - currently we do not vote for a national party, we vote for a local representative - who may represent a national party. The party with the most MPs forms a government - but it is theoretically possible for a political party to win an election, but their leader not win his seat
Would be awesome to see a one day build trying to make that ball machine work!
As a full time mechanic, my toolbox and tool cart, which is Husky btw, is 95% Harbor Freight tools. Pittsburg and Icon have warranties much like snapon, matco and such. I break it, I can get it replaced more than likely for free. The most expensive tool set I have is a Matco ratchetting end wrench set 8mm to 19mm. My regular wrench set is hypertough from walmart of all places which I've had for 5 years and have yet to break or bend one. I even have a balljoint press I got off amazon for $50 4 years ago. I bent it a little but it still works! Buy cheap first and upgrade as needed. If you get 2+ years out of it and breaks, buy it again. At that point the work you've done has paid for the tool by a large magnitude lol
I still have, and very occasionally use (secret to their longevity I'm sure) a Globemaster tap set and die set from the bargain bin at a hardware store in the 1970's! And a wire-stripper from K-Mart in the '80s that gets used a lot, and various other cheap but effective tools from years ago.
Adam is on point ☝️ totally agree with him 💯💯💯
My dad always taught me to buy cheap tools first. If I don't break them then I don't need to upgrade them. If I do break them then I must be using it enough to need better tools.
When I was looking at becoming a diesel fitter, I was advised to get the cheapest tools possible. Then, when they start to wear out or tools that I use all the time that a better quality version would be more helpful, then upgrade THOSE tools to good quality ones.
I have a Harbor Freight cheater bar and impact socket in my trunk that I use as a lug wrench.
Wait, you're going to Brisbane?
I need to book a flight back home!
Swap meets and yard sales are great places to find tools. Estate sales can be great too! And don't feel bad about getting an amazing deal on an otherwise expensive tool. Things are worth what someone is willing to pay. If I see a name-brand tool at a sale for a dollar, who am I to complain? That is what the seller is willing to accept.
Yeah. Start with cheap tools. If it looks like you aren't doing things as easily as youtubers that you watch, and you need to use that tool often, then get the tool everyone recommends that is in your price range.
I have a 4” grinder I bought at Harbor freight 20+ years ago paid around $9-10 used it yesterday still works
As a hobby woodworker, I'm totally on board with your school of thought on buying cheap tools. I have some tools I got inexpensively that I still use to this day. There are others that after proving their usefulness I upgraded a bit. I'm saving to upgrade my table saw from a Harbor Freight Hercules job site saw to a modest upgrade of the Delta 36-725t2. Would a saw stop or similarly high quality cabinet saw be nice? Sure!
(continued) However I don't need such a saw at this point in my journey. Perhaps somewhere down the line that will be the case but until then I'll manage just fine with the tools I can currently afford.
I have a ton of cheap tools. They're the go to. Both because cheap tools aren't always the worst tools (heck i paid nearly 100e for a quality wrench and found it wanting) but also because cheap tools ... i don't mind mucking about with, even modifying. It also teaches you restraint. You can't mess something up if your tool has a lower grade of cheese. So keeping cheap tools around is not only good for your pocket, but also a smart decision when dealing with some things. Good tools come out when you want more or want perfection. Work doesn't always need to be perfect either, it needs to be adequate. When work needs to be perfect, you better put on the old white coat - get in the mentality. Mixing the two - that's how you get ruined things and people blaming their tools or the things they fix. Those reading know exactly the type of person i'm talking about, we've all come across them one time or another.
I use that same rivet gun from harbor freight that thing is awesome and harbor freight is a great store for people who want to get tools for a hobby but don’t want to break the bank I have a hobbyist race car and truck for the most part I use harbor freight tools to fix and maintain them
Great.To.Learn.With 4 words to sum it up. Taught myself how to work on cars with harbor freight tools most of which are still in my toolbox
Thank you for the insite on cheap tools you are so right, I have done the same thing sometimes a cheap tool is the perfect tool.you don't need the most expensive one when you may only use it 3 or 4 times in your life
Cheap tools have come such a long way over the past 20 years.
You can get a tool that's 75% as good as the top of the line ones for 25% of the price.
Another great thing about the cheap tools: you're more willing to permanently modify a cheap tool to meet your needs.
I started playing accordion. I needed a 'pin pulling tool' in order to grip the pins which hold the case of the instrument closed without damaging them as pliers would. So I bought cheap pliers and modified the jaws with a rotary tool. Had I instead bought the "professional" pin puller, I would be another hundred dollars poorer for a tool I have used once.
The way I've always approached tools are one, can they do the job you need them to do without creating too much extra work/time/effort, two how long does it need to last. Is it a one time job or is this something you'll need to do regularly? If it's something you will rarely use, it might be worth the cheaper tool even if it does take more time or effort to use it, but if the tool risks a costly mistake, get a better tool that won't risk the mistakes even if it you don't use it often because those mistakes can easily cost more than the better tool did.
Harbor Freight makes a lot of perfectly adequate tools and some that are really really good along with some that are basically disposable. Some jobs you know you will need a disposable tool for as even the good tool will take a lot of abuse. I have no qualms about buying cheap sockets from them that I might need to cut down or grind down, why pay lots extra for a nicer socket if that's the case.
I think we should not be separated as creators by cheap or expensive tools but come together as creators with basic and professional tools. There is a wide difference in the business place between cheap and basic or expensive and professional. Cheap can actually mean expensive in business and together it can ruin creators. Basic and professional are not opposites either but they both allow creators to better experiment with new disciplines furthering their crafts.
I bought a small hammer at Dollar Tree years ago for $1. It broke the first time I used it. So maybe Dollar Tree isn't the best place to buy tools. But I've bought several tools at Harbor Freight and never had a problem. When I need a tool that I know is vitally important to my job, I buy the best I can afford at the time within reason, but when it's something I won't use often, cheaper can be better sometimes.
I would love to hear the full story of the ball throwing machine. Is there another video where Adam discussed it?
good advice on tool purchase
I think the cry once buy once mantra works if you are a mechanic where your tool set is going to change very little over your career. Or any other career field where the same tools are used daily. As a home owner, maker, or other multi-discipline user; cheap tools make more sense to allow a budget to include needed capabilities. If you buy a tool and use to the point of breakage you can then have a better understanding of what you want and in need in the replacements. You then can buy the “best” or replace with a cheap tool again.
I have some great cheap tools. My favourites are pistol grip clamps from Lidl. They come in sizes from about 4 inches up to 18 inches. I would never use them for a glue up but for holding things down while I cut something or plane it or perform some other form of artisanal surgery they are perfect. I have ten of them and I think they cost just over £20 for the lot. For clamping where I need pressure I have some Bessey clamps but they are more cumbersome so are reserved for the jobs that suit their strong points. And I went mad and spent £6 on my claw hammer.
I'm about to start doing maintenance on industrial equipment and I fully expect my first toolbox and tools to be second, third, fourth, or even fifth-hand from the other people in the crew. I'm curious how many of those tools are going to end up being replaced with my own tools after ten or fifteen years and who will end up with my tools after I'm gone
Wow! I’m not the only one who measures finance by the cost of buckets!
I like having cheap tools especially hand tools, around for 2 reasons. #1 I've found them to actually be pretty good and last quite a long time. #2 if I have to modify the tool for any reason to do the job at hand i can without crying because that 10 MM wrench from the SNAP-ON truck cost me 2 weeks pay, just because it says SNAP-ON on it, instead of PITTSBURGH.
I got companion reversible ratcheting screwdriver with modular bits & swivel head for free as a buy anything in store gift from harbor freight almost 20 years ago I still use it weekly.
Dollar store tools are cheap but work well enough. The metal seems to be soft and can wear down or bend faster over time than good tools, but they usually last long enough to finish the current job.
A counterpoint to "buy the cheapest": locking pliers.
I have cheap ones and name brand ones. The cheapest ones are difficult to use, don't hold properly, and are almost impossible to release after you realise they slipped.
Yeah, name brand costs 5 times as much, but they're still very affordable, and you'll never regret it.
A lot of my best tools have been found at the side of the road. Pliers, hammer, screwdrivers- sockets galore, hand tools by the bucketload, depending on time of day, and if traffic is tame enough for me to grab them. I got a multimeter I used for years out of a bargain bin kid's science/ electronics kit.
Yeah. I'm that cheap and broke.
Anybody has a link to the longer explanation for that difficult job Adam is talking about in the first part?
Sometimes it pays to go cheap but sometimes it doesn't. It depends on use scenarios.
If you're doing something at a professional level and you know that your product matches or exceeds others on the market, it will be more viable in the long run to get professional/industrial grade products/tools.
In something like car detailing, you never know how dirty your next car is going to be. You don't always need a steam cleaner for a detail, but when you need it, YOU NEED IT. It's not gonna be good if you have a cheap consumer model that burns the shit out of your hand after 15 uses.
Increasing your odds of success adds up. There is value in buying once and eliminating a point of failure.
Most of my tools are hand-me-downs from my dad. I have no idea what he paid for them, but I haven't paid much for most of my equipment. The most expensive thing I've bought for tools was either a welder (about $200) or an electric nail gun (not sure how much that cost, but it drowned when my basement flooded)
Unfortunately, there's not much in the "cheap" range when you're wanting a manual tubular rivet clincher/squeezer.
I'm rebuilding some small(ish) flip-top boxes and trying to make them look original after the mods, and the OEM uses those nice, smooth-dome-topped rivets. 🤷 So, I'm up a creek without a huge upfront outlay.
Just picked up 4 screwdrivers for $2 at a pawnshop
I have a lot of "dollar store" tools. They are the ones that I need but will seldom use. The more I think I will use a tool the more I will generally spend on it.
Everyone should have a set of beater tools
Cheap tools are perfect for most applications. I served my apprenticeship on an oil refinery and I've worked in many industries in the 18 years since, and I've dropped dozens of tools into various black holes all over Scotland. I once dropped a whole metric and imperial Allen key set into an aeration lane in a sewage works (minus the 10mm I was holding) that lane empties once every 15 to 20 years. Never seeing them again. As far as I'm concerned any bolt under M10 can have the cheapest spanners and 1/4" drive sockets known to man, cause I'm far more likely to snap the bolt than I am to break the tool. Power tools and drill bits are the main ones I wouldn't skimp on. After that, it's a marathon not a sprint, take your time to build a decent tool box, and enjoy the journey.
MLB Kayak Park Field, should be #24 Mays Park
Agree with Adam buy the cheap one see how much you use it. Get more efficient with that tool. Then you can warrant a better quality tool.
I bought a very cheap set of chisels when I was first starting out in woodworking 4 years ago. The handles are pretty crap, but the steel sharpens beautifully and stays razor sharp for ages.
Is the long version of the baseball story on RUclips?
When choosing which tools to skimp on, I look at what it will cost me if the tool fails whether that be time, money, and/or materials. Unfoo, that is sometimes only learned through bad experiences.
Slightly confused and amused when I misheard "Milspec" (Military specification) as "Milf spec." I took a long time to learn that money saved on cheap tools is usually wasted.
As long as a tool gets the job done, it’s a good tool. It doesn’t matter if it’s Snap On, Craftsman, Stanley, or Husky.
Cheap tools further prove, "everything is a hammer"
8:13 My experience I bought a mini drill for 2 dollars and it worked for 12 hours and the drill clamp lock broke. HA not critically inserted a nail and voila continued working. Yes, during this time I Managed to make engravings on acrylic plates, all clients bought, I am happy. And I have already bought a good German quality mini drill machine on a battery. Advice to all to improvise. No way out There are no situations in life. Good luck to everyone in your projects, beginnings, designs. And finding the right solutions. When I make a quality video, I will show what happened with the lamp))).
Gotham Garage has a car in the Peterson car museum they used harbor freight tools on
Is the full story of the ball pitcher anywhere on the internet? Id love to watch it
Same!
I believe it was at Defcon. Search for "Adam Savage Defcon" and a talk will come up. I haven't watched through it yet to confirm.
Given what they charge for buckets these days, buying a set of tools for less than ten buckets sounds like a bargain to me! ALSO, there is a lovely Tool Thrift Shop not too far from me and i was able to source a (corded) drywall screwgun for a recent project for a stupidly low price. It's a great little hole in the wall and perfect for bargains like 10 or 11 inch ChannelLock pliers for $1 and so on and so forth.
The first miter saw I bought was 25 years ago and was the cheapest I could get at Lowe's, I think it cost $65. 10", no slide... I have built so much with that saw, it's a beast and still going strong, have never gotten another one.
I have a ryobi just like that i got for about that price 20 some years ago. The damn thing wont die. Zero bells and whistles, but it parts a 2x4 with ease
@@Typexviiibyup! And I've learned how to flip boards 😂
Sometimes you or your client might be less than thrilled with an outcome, but if it does the job, you should still get paid. I guess live and learn applies here.
There is nothing wrong with buying cheaper tools, especially for just occasional use. If you're a pro, or if you use something all the time, by all means, buy something better. But cheap is fine for infrequent use, as long as it's sturdy enough to be safe. Don't risk your safety, nor the safety of others around you.
To add, skimp on the tools that you don't use as often. The daily use ones should be able to last and get something quality for those ones. But I agree, the first few tools should be entry level and then you realize what features in a tool that you value and then go find those features in the next ones you buy and use the "old ones" as your bang up tools. ie everyone should have a flat head screwdriver that is dedicated to prying, and a old chisel that is used for more bang up jobs. haha
That last 0.1% will drive you batty some times! (see what I did there? :D )
I 100 percent agree they should have named it Mays Field