How to Make CFL Powered by Electric Fly Swatter/Racket Zapper
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- How to make a Compact Fluorescent Light (CFL) be powered by an electric fly swatter/racket zapper to get a reading lamp, desk lamp, ...
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Fantastic job! This reminds me of the compact Fuji flash circuit rechargeable CFL driver I made on my channel. You can help speed up the brightness of the CFL by holding your warm hand over the entire CFL in cooler weather. Great use for that fly swatter.
Nice idea! I kinda did the opposite of this, I took the circuit out of a cfl, connected it up to an ordinary 8 watt straight florescent tube, plugged it in and it worked! I use that as my reading light on the wall above my bed now.
CoolDudeClem Cool!
Great video. My zapper was a little different but like you said the basic principle was the same, it had 3 capacitors and 3 diodes but I removed them all to get the best light. I find mine will shut off at a convenient 2V and is now great for cycling my crappy NiMh batteries, I get around an hour from them with a 16W CFL.Thanks again for sharing, stuff like this makes ya wish you stayed in school longer :)
NZHorizones Thanks. And thanks for sharing your experience with your zapper. Re school, I stayed in school but stuff like this makes me wish I'd paid more attention. :)
How to make the CFL powered by an electric fly swatter. Includes the longevity test - 2 AA batteries = 3 hours 45 minutes. Enjoy!
Bellissima !!!!
The clear and complete explanations always make your videos great to watch! Keep up the great work!
Excellent Tutorial! I have seen quite a few of your videos and I have to say that your channel is one of the best (if not the best) for this type of medium that I have seen.
Thanks for making them!
Nice project! It's amazing that it gives such consistent light for over 3 hours! You might find this amusing, but we were really getting into your efforts to make the enclosure for the lamp out of bottles and scrap plastic. We love making stuff from bottles here! LOL! ;-)
USWaterRockets Thanks! Yeah, the bottle and scrap plastic enclosure worked out well, looks nice. Got lucky on that one. Glad I could accommodate your love of everything bottles! :)
Thank you man! Nice video... I start to follow your channel about 2 years but with another profile... For educational your channel is one of the best.
Sorry for my bad english!
LudVic Thank you! I'm glad you're enjoying them, and thanks for watching all this time!
I like how the output remains consistent for nearly all of the run duration. It would make a good use for a 'dead' CFL, which never are, it's just the circuit inside that wonks out. The light is far warmer than any LED, which can help when reading for long periods.
Could you measure the coil resistances ? It seems very similar to the Jeanna's Light in coil design.
I already did a few weeks ago when I was working out the circuit - the two input windings have a resistance of around 20 ohms each and the output winding has around 320 ohms. I also suspect the coils are doing the same thing as those in Jeanna's Light. My experience with that is what made me suspect this would work.
RimstarOrg Thanks very much for the details. Quite high values on the primary + tertiary, rather than 2 or 3 ohms.
Cheers :)
slider2732 You said CFL never dies ?? But it's the circuit ?? Can you back that up or at least give me some info ??
Adam Hasso
Yes, If you build Rimstars circuit here, you can use a CFL that no longer works when plugged in to a conventional mains socket.
Us guys who have a history with wireless electricity circuits and Slayer Exciters often use failed CFL's, that work just fine again without their internal circuitry :)
I shouldn't say never dies, there will be some limit, but have yet to see a CFL dim down or use up the mercury vapor.
Adam Hasso I don't know about "never" but 3 out of 4 of the CFL tubes I showed at the beginning of the video plus the one I actually use came from CFLs that stopped working but all those tubes are fine. (I say 3 out of 4 because the 5 watt one was from a CFL that still worked but I needed the tube.) The only time I had a bad tube was when I dropped one and the glass broke. I've never examined the electronics to see what went wrong.
thank you for making such a detail video, that is very helpful
Wow just what I'm after. In the era of Coronavirus...been thinking of building one of these out of a 15-20w Germicidal bulb. Looks like I could use whatever style lamp as a base ( 120V Edison, external ballast..whatever), and a flyswatter. Think it might work? Would the AA's be able to hold up to 15w vs 10w? Any tips for a rechargeable battery?
Then I can blast my groceries before I go into the house! Sure it's overkill for a small risk...but it's fun to make and practical too!
Great! I used cheap disposable camera circuit with a CFL and that worked good.
Spangley Rainbows Nice!
I bet you can improve this design by taking advantage of the filaments inside the bulb! Believe it or not, they will actually be more efficient if the filament is heated! And you will get more light from it, too! So I think one way to do this is to only connect the HV to one of the 2 connections on either side of the lamp, and the remaining 2 can be bridged together with a small, HV capacitor. So that most of the HV goes through the lamp, but a small fraction of it will go through the filaments to keep them warm. Running lamps in CCFL mode I think also reduces lifespan, though I am by no means an expert on them.
Great project,gonna build something like this someday!,thank you for sharing.
that's a great one, l-l-love it. Thanks for sharing! Also congrats on creating what must be one of the very few CFL or 'low-energy' lights that should be NOT EMITTING ANY so-called dirty electricity for lack (proper removal) of all the original electronics*) powering the AC original variant of it. Great job.
Question: could you briefly answer (or maybe even run a brief how-to) on properly grounding small electrical devices (like power supplies for laptops, so-called 'smart' battery chargers, wired-LAN routers/switches etc)? These days, they usually come without 3-pronge plugs, hence no grounding from the sockets. I would like to know (1) if and how I can replace the default power supplies coming with them for a grounded one bought separately and (2) whether a grounded power supply is good enough for properly grounding the connected DC item (e g an Ethernet switch or laptop computer in a plastic case) over that simple 2-wire black-and-red standard DC cable that comes with such devices, or if I need to drill open/attach a separate ground wire from the DC-powered device to Ground? For easier grounding, would a grounded and shielded Ethernet cable (CAT-7 STP or similar) work for that job if I am careful to select one with metal RJ-45 plugs running to a similarly metal-equipped switch or router that's also properly grounded? (Apart from EF and possible electromagnetic and/or RF interference, this might also improve data throughput and lower error/repetition rates.) Any info -- let alone a video on that -- would be great and much appreciated, too. Thank you.
---
*) if you want to be absolutely technical -- I don't know the fly squatter stuff's reading's specifically, but they're likely way lower already...
It's all good that is at least until the bulb finally kicks the bucket and burns out and then you'll have to do all this stuff again but the good thing is that fluorescent bulbs last much longer than their incandescent counterparts so you won't have to worry about that problem for some time and that you're good with electronics so it shouldn't bother you.
That was great! You need a 3D printer more than any anybody I know!
Thanks! I have access to a few 3D printers here in town at various hacker spaces and have only done one fun print to try it out so far. I'd like to design and print some pulleys for a new Wimshurst machine as a first serious project. Regarding 3D printing projects for this youtube channel, I'm on the fence since I like to keep things easily replicable. I had one commenter once refer to one of my projects as something for the rest of us in comparison to the same project done by someone else using 3D printing.
Hi Rimstar! If you put 18W LED bulb (240V) instead of the CFL bulb, it will brighter than that.
Just use a cheap LED Bulb and enjoy the light up to 6 hours with very good brightness.
If you can find NPN transistor as 2SD882, it will be good fair and "punch up" the efficiency.
Greeting, from Indonesia.
😊🙏👍
For an LED bulb, I think you wouldn't want to connect to the output of this fly swatter since it's too high voltage. I think instead you'd want to run it as a normal joule thief. So in the circuit shown at 0:53, I'd put it between the transistor's emitter and collector. There may be other circuitry in the LED bulb so you may have to bypass that too.
I haven't played with commercially made LED bulbs so I would be wrong about all this.
Thanks for your response, your channel is cool!
Actually my project using cheap chinese 18Watt LED Bulb (240V) was using your this project perfectly. Actually my project is just Joule Thief with secondary turns as your project over here. You may assume that output of Fly Swatter too high, it's true but it was SPIKE of inductor principal about inductance. It may be high over 1KV, but when LOAD connected, as LED Bulb, the LOAD absorb the SPIKE and transform it to Light.
We always thinking; "but in the LED bulb there's rectifier diode and capacitor, how can it be?" but many people not thinking about the unique of Inductor as Voltage Booster (flyback mode) and how low Wattage in spike voltage transform into light, especially with LED output.
I'm so sorry if my english so bad.
Cool! I'm glad to hear it worked. 6 hours is a very long time. Thanks for sharing your result.
Wow, What a great idea! I subscribed :)
***** Thanks! You have some pretty cool stuff too.
Anyone get an Amnesia vibe while he walked around his office?
So simple, yet so cool. :)
GoRepairs Thanks man. It's always nice when you can combine things with minimal changes and get something cool out of it.
I’m running a 36W fluorescent with this method. It’s awesome, but the high frequency whine is quite annoying. Is there a way to change the resonant frequency?
Yes, you can change the frequency by changing the value of one of the resistors. You can see me do this at three minutes and eleven seconds into this video which uses the same circuit ruclips.net/video/yz_99oVMbSI/видео.html Your fly swatter may have a different circuit but I show how mine is the same as a joule thief circuit at two minutes and twenty-three seconds into my first fly swatter video ruclips.net/video/niRCKUliQWs/видео.html In the diagram which I show there, it's the 1200 ohm resistor you'd have to change.
Does it matter what bug zapper I use or can I buy a cheap one at harbor freight and hack it up? I ask because some say 1500 volts some 2300 volts and some 2750 volts. I even have a 3700 volt one but it's a bug light but a handle comes out and it can be a hand held zapper but it's too heavy. I did make one of these from a camera flash circuit but it's dying. it doesn't like 3 volts so might do this one.
+coondogtheman1234 I don't know. I have experience with only the one in this video and I have noticed from other people's videos that there are differences in circuits from one manufacturer to another, but I haven't analyzed the circuits in those videos to see how they work.
RimstarOrg
What I think is the circuit is the same in all zappers they just use a different capacity capacitor say 1000v or 2000v. I'm going to do what was done in the video.
I was expecting This so much! Good video
Es fly swatter mei ungli karoge ya fly ko kabhi banaoge
pretty cool concept there ! just had a brainstorm looking at that, would there be a way to still utilize the zapper racket ? if so you could possibly put together a cheap, portable bug zapper for camping trips, cookout and such.. im sure such a thing is on the market but this could be a cheap and easy alternative !
dirkk82 ? But I started out with a bug zapper. Or do mean put it back together and modify it to make a different type of bug zapper?On the other hand, the market seems to be for hackers like us to buy them for taking apart and doing other things with them. :)
RimstarOrg lol i thought my question might be confusing .. well there's the traditional bug zapper, using a light which is surrounded by an electrified cage. the same could be made with that zapper racket, a bit of modification would be needed but then you have a portable version of the traditional version, its cheap, battery powered, and a virtually hands-free version of the zapper racket .. i've tried those rackets before and i must say, i'd rather the insects come to me as apposed to chasing them down :-p
dirkk82 Ah. I wonder if you'd need two zapper rackets. The charge on the cage could be built up slowly over time since bugs don't arrive in a constant stream. Unless they do, in which case, run! :)
yes i was wondering that as well, not sure if there would be enough current for both the CFL and keeping the racket charged .. well its almost springtime here in Germany as soon as the rackets come again i will pick up a few and try it out :-)
how you figure this out i took it apart but no fly whatever. and I'm just connecting the light bulbs to a battery but it does not work?
How are you going to replace the bulb when it burns out?
Brandon Fisher I'd just cut a tube from another "broken" CFL, solder some new wires to it and use the marrettes to connect is to the circuit. I guess if you attach alligator clips to the ends of the wire coming from the circuit then you could skip the soldering step and the marrettes and simply connect to the CFL tube's short wires using the alligator clips.
I did it, it works well but i noticed that the transistor SD965 is hot after 5 minutes so i just inquire if i can replace this transistor and use IRFZ44N mosfet instead?
I don't know about using a mosfet instead or how you'd modify the circuit to use one. Another opiton might be to switch to a power transistor and put the transistor on a heat sink.
Great Thanks for sharing
Will it works with AC Christmas lights?
Hello I have a zapper circuit that I think has a bad transistor b/c when I connect it to 3V power it gets hot. Any ideas where to get a similar transistor like from a dead CFL lamp inverter because I have three sitting in front of me now.
+coondogtheman1234 Is there anything written on the transistor from the zapper circuit?
RimstarOrg
It says:
H SD
965
7LTR
The circuit was from a zapper that had no pop so I tried to change it so I don't think that's the original transistor.
The ones on the CFL inverters say
4124DL GFG E6AM
Will those work?
I have the guts from a small solar light with S8550 D 331 transistors on it.
+coondogtheman1234 Not knowing what the original transistor was I can't say if it's a good replacement for the original. But based on the datasheets for the two numbers you gave:
pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/hsmc/HSD965.pdf
www.unisonic.com.tw/datasheet/4124D.pdf
it looks like the one from the CFL might have a chance of working as a replacement. Keep in mind that it may also be some other part that's broken, like the coils or a capacitor.
What's the voltage of the rachargeable battery inside a mosquito bat?Can we connect it to motor by connecting resistor to it?If yes,which resistor shld I connect?
The voltage of the one I opened up (ruclips.net/video/niRCKUliQWs/видео.html) is 3 volts, but they're not rechargeable batteries so yours may be different. The output is high voltage so, no, you can't connect a motor to it.
Creat.
Can you show how to modify one of those lamps to use 12v?
I've a solar panel and a battery. I hate to have to use the inverter just lo light a lamp.
Btw, the reading lamp is an awesome idea.
i like to read till i get sleepy, and for that i need a dim light. with batteries is better :) i could use some rechargeable batts.
Jerónimo Barraco Mármol I don't know the modifications off hand. It would take some testing to see if the transformer can handle it and if the transformer's output voltage would be too high for the capacitor. It's not something I can calculate.
You could also look into getting a 12V DC lightbulb instead.
thanks i googled a bit, it seems possible.
By laws of demand and offer, given that my country has imports blocked, it's cheaper to get a cfl than a 12v, led, or 12v cfl.
I'm trying this now.I got the CFL to light but I'm not sure exactly where to hook the wires. I tried on the transformer but I get nothing. I found one of the output points but I think its outputting DC and not AC. I'm making a set of quick videos on this.
I'm confused. You say you got the CFL to light but you're not sure where to hook the wires. How did you get it to work then?
If you hook it up to the transformer and get nothing then maybe your CFL tubes are no good? It could also be that your CFL tubes are too long for your circuit to ignite, in which case try a lower wattage CFL if you have one. If the problem isn't that then something may be wrong with your circuit. Make sure you have a new battery to start with just in case that's the problem.
I kept trying different points on the board. some of them did nothing some lit the bulb with no buzzing and some with heavy buzzing. I eventually settled on putting the other wire on the middle of the transformer and there is no buzzing but the light works. I have a few videos of this that I am going tp upload one is me asking for help and the other two are me figuring out what points and the last one is me testing. I'll just upload the videos. stay tuned to my channel.
What you did in part 3 is what I would suggest. I don't have time to analyse the circuit, there's a lot more there than with mine, but since you're connecting to the transformer then it should be AC.
I connected the bulb where the grid went and I saw that one end of the tube glowed a brighter blue and that changed to the other end when I reversed the wires. Where I have it now both ends of the tube are glowing blue. I may just break down and get a 12 volt CCFL inverter. will that power this bulb? Might not be as bright at when it's on 120VAC.
I don't know.
Out of curiosity, is there a more energy efficient way of testing the longevity?
Loser Spud You mean without wasting batteries? I can't think of any way. However, if you're actually making use of it at the time (unlike what I did), such as using it as a reading light, then at least the batteries won't be wasted.
RimstarOrg Good point, thanks. I can't imagine the technology would have much day-to-day use. Cool project, by the way!
great project, but 1x 1W white LED costs $0,7US and you need only LED, one resistor and the batteries which all in all will cost way less than even the fly swatter and will produce way more light and will last more than a few days using 2x AA batteries and it will be way smaller in dimensions.
i would like to see you make tutorial about LEDs, series, parallel, why you need to control the current, explanation about the calculations, best way to drive the LEDs etc...
at the moment i am building a garden light using 9x 1W LEDs with light sensor and 12V 60W 5A switching power supply, i would like some help for this if possible.
Hobypyrocom Thanks. This is intended as a fun project. a fun hack and an electronics learning lesson. I agree, with its 3 3/4 hours runtime, LEDs would be the way to go for something more practical. Having said that, I haven't done much with LEDs.
RimstarOrg They aren't too bad to design around. There is hardly even a need for a ballast, or similar driver, as there is for CFLs. You can always pick up some good 5-10W really blindingly powerful power LEDs these days, ones that are like 130lm/w! I sometimes will just direct-drive them with 3AAA or 3AA batteries, without any ballast, and rely on the internal resistance of the battery. That is not good practice though.
Was the used tube dead? It looks like dead one will work, since you have not used it's filaments.
Hrushikesh Vartak The tube was fine, though something was wrong with the electronics that was attached to it since the CFL as a whole didn't work anymore. What do you mean by I didn't use its filaments?
What i meant was you are not passing current through the filaments but using them just as a simple electrodes. It's nice to see that swatter circuit can lit the tube without requiring to heat up the electrodes.
Hrushikesh Vartak That's a good point. I just connected to only one wire from each filament and the CFL tube lit. So the fact that the tube lights up with this circuit isn't a test if the filaments are good.
cool, this flashlight!!!
Permire Fabrica Thanks! I'm glad you like it!
hello rimstar.. i have a rechargeable fly swatter and it has an inbuilt battery of 9volts which is charged by connecting to 230v-240v which is converted to 12volts dc chargted and it has a buigger circuit than your electric fly swatter video... so i'm a beginner to electronics .. so can you please help find out in circuit??
Navneeth S. I don't understand your question. Are you asking if I can help figure out your circuit? If so, I can't without actually having the fly swatter in front of me.
ok thanks for the reply i will surely make a video of the circuit inside the fly swatter . the battery inside it is a rechargeable version
show could I make this work wirelessly?
it make noise right?
I wasn't sure so I just listened to one of the raw, unedited video clips and yes, it makes a high frequency sound.
Hi, I noticed the transistor on my swatter turns hot to touch even when there is no load connected to the secondary of the transformer. Is this normal? It's a D965. I made a test using a 18W small fluorescent spiral tube and it doesn't light much bright. Should I use a fluo tube between 5W and 13W like in your video? Cheers!
+Viktor Božičević Mine didn't get hot, so I can't say if it's normal. I know that normally to power a CFL with a joule thief circuit like this, a power transistor is used and often with a heat sink, so I'm not surprised that it gets hot. If it gets really hot then you might consider replacing it with a different transistor, even maybe a power transistor with a heat sink. It's essentially this circuit here rimstar.org/science_electronics_projects/joule_thief_power_cfl_with_jeannas_light_circuit.htm.
Regarding your 18W small fluorescent not being bright, I'm not surprised. With my joule thief circuit made from scratch for powering CFLs, when I switched from a 13W CFL to a 5W CFL I required less power for the same brightness (I could use a higher value resistance with the 5W one to get the same brightness as with the 13W one and a lower value resistance.) You can see this in my video here at 5:15 ruclips.net/video/yz_99oVMbSI/видео.html
+RimstarOrg What do you think will it work with 2n3055 or tip31c transistor, or maybe even with 2n3904? And I'll try with lower wattage bulbs.
+Viktor Božičević The 2n3055 should work (it's what I used in the one I linked to), the tip31c might (at least you can put it on a heat sink), and the 2n3904 won't be significantly better than what you already have.
Hi, have you maybe used G23 or other plug in types of cfls with HV joule thiefs? I'm asking this besause I spotted these types of low wattage bulbs are much cheaper than the E27 ones. But I'm only not sure whether they have any step down circuit inside the base or the tube is connected directly to the mains contacts? Cheers.
+Viktor Božičević I've only use the E27. But I don't think the base matters since it's cut off and not used; only the fluorescent tube is used. Regarding the tube, however, you want one that's pretty show and low watts. The longer the tube and the higher the watt rating, the higher the voltage you'll need to get it to work.
Only thing I'd change would be taking the bottom of a disposable clear plastic bottle to protect the tube and make it more durable.
***** Oh, good idea! Or maybe a small glass jar so that it would take any heat, not that it gets very hot.
This is a perfect idea and I had fun making it! I think I should've used a large resistor replacement...higher wattage I mean because I didn't follow your instructions perfectly...I kind of ignored the part of waiting to see if parts get hot. I tried higher voltages which worked great! But the component parts which got a little hot before got REALLY HOT and I think I fried the replacement resistor. I'm gonna experiment with different resistor strength AND try a higher wattage resistor (2 or 3w instead of just 1/2 watt) and see if I can boost the light and stability of the circuit. This is a great circuit to have fun for beginners and learn how to "tinker" with a circuit to get different results. The cost of failure is not high either! These electric swatters are pretty cheap.
***** Keep an eye on the transistor heating too. You may have to attach the transistor to a heat sink. I'm glad to hear you're having fun with it!
I think you're right. After reading your comment and rechecking it seems that the transistor is overheating. Putting a heat sink IS a good idea if I play with the voltage but then I'd have to do something different with the "handle" being used as a case. I don't think any decent sized heat-sink will fit...then again it might look interesting if I apply it in a creative way!
I have really enjoyed lots of your experiments and "hot to" electronic presentations and I hope to try as many as possible. Thanks again.
how much volts it produces in the CFL
I suspect it's around a thousand volts. I measured it with a similar circuit in this video here ruclips.net/video/yz_99oVMbSI/видео.html.
may i know
hw many watt cfl is used?
+Retna Nair It was a 13 watt CFL. If you watch another video where I work with pretty much the same circuit (ruclips.net/video/yz_99oVMbSI/видео.html) you'll see at 6:10 what happened when I switched to a 5 watt CFL and changed the resistor value.
that capasator should be over the lamp
it makes the ac more stable
I would worry that it might lower the AC voltage too much. A CFL tube needs high voltage to start at least. But I could be wrong.
hi rimstar org i tried to make it with a phone charger transformer and c1815 transistor and 1k resstor and a little cfl tube it doesn't work with 3v battery .can you please help me!
+Yasser crazy boy Sorry. I'm too busy these days for projects not related to my own. Try www.eevblog.com/forum/
ok ,thank's anyway!
The circuit looks like a HIGH VOLTAGE JOULE THIEF!
Ivan Paul Good eye! It is.
RimstarOrg I have TWO small doubt!!
1]Why aren't they running WHITE ????
2]Does this produce dirty electricity???
Ivan Paul 1) The CFL tube output looks pretty yellow to me, which is the color they originally were. These days I use white CFLs but none of mine have burnt out yet so I haven't cut anyway any tubes for white ones.2) If by dirty electricity you mean electromagnetic waves it frequencies that could interfere with things, then it probably does. I didn't make any attempt to put shielding.
Yow can incrase output power by removing the capacitor!
doesn't burn the transistor with continues on?
No, the transistor has never been damaged.
really? because in twiste cfl's driver circuit the transistors always burn first.
I guess if you use it regularly for a long period of time then something will burn out eventually. It happens with regular CFLs, so I suspect it would with DIY ones too. I don't use it regularly.
may be :)
Hmmm, I'm gonna make an homemade sodium vapor lamp out of a partially vacuumed glass jar, grains of salt, and obviously an electric fly swatter!
Honey. Have you seen my coat hanger?
The Sqoou Turn on the light in the closet, Dear. You'll see part of it at least. :)
Like with out seeing the video. .
Goooooog luk
faisal alamri Thanks. I hope it earned the like! :)
I mean all your videos was helpful and you deserve all the best.
Best wishes
whoa that was really cool...I would kill myself...
***** Thanks man. The secret is to not chew on the CFL glass, then you'll be fine (it gets between my teeth.) :)
RimstarOrg
Brahahahaha!!
plzz reply . thank you
i would like to try this with led light bulb
Lester King The voltage is too high for an LED light bulb if you put it in the same place as the CFL. However, an LED light bulb, or at least an LED, may work if you put it between the collector and emitter of the transistor.
Then get some cree XML2 power LEDs, a heatsink to mount them to, and a 3.3V power supply capible of at least 3A. Idealy you would use a switch mode power supply to maximize efficiency.
Power Max But the voltage at the CFL is in the hundreds of volts. I couldn't see it with my scope, it was too high, but I estimated it from what I could on the scope to be around 600 volts.
I was referring to the previous comment. What I describe would end up being a COMPLETELY different project. To make something that has the same uses as what is shown in the video, I would be using LEDs and a simple constant current switching LED driver, which would be the most practical way to make the same thing shown in the video. I am not a fan of those ugly CFLs, their fragile nature, and their poor efficiency (like
Power Max
So? Go do your "completely different" video then.
Why even bring this up in the first place?
its no longer a cfl, its a ccfl
Hmmm, CFL emits a lot of UV frequency which is bad for your eyes.
dude wtf and they put capacitors and all you need is 9v wtf!!!! why don't they come like this capacitor capacitor so on our pho e we don't need 120v to charge why my whole house could be powered at 12v but its because of caps yo thanks i have a good idea to live of grid and do experiments on anti gravity
Please tell me this also works with this 4Watt led bulb bit.ly/2jGUyRF
No. This works with a CFL because it produces a high voltage, which is what's needed to turn on the CFL. An LED bulb doesn't require high voltage.