I'm a hobby machinist, and a simple fix would be to put a hardened screw in there. Carbide is very brittle and doesn't tolerate any flexing, so I'm not surprised they kept breaking. Might have had better luck with a good quality high speed steel end mill. Maybe. Thanks for the vid.
carbide is super brittle and does not like being loaded in multiple directions. doing an initial plunge with the carbide bit followed by a diamond burr on regular steel would likely work better
That or just less aggressive movements, he is hulking that thing. Going slow for sure takes longer but this could have been completed with a single bit. That being said I do agree it is hard to do this with out "proof" of being tampered
TurtleIsSlow2469 Maybe initial drilling with a more regular drill smaller than the hole, followed by digging with a "ball on a stick" shaped diamond bit (available cheaply in hardware stores, though maybe not in the size for this lock).
excellent concept, unfortunately carbide is very brittle and breaks easily, i believe you could done it with 1 Cobalt drill bit. Cobalt is softer but last much longer then carbide. lower rpm for less heat and better steadiness, lessen the chance for injury in case something goes wrong.
I am glad that you were honest about showing the broken drill bits. FYI, the drill bits are harder than the screw. Harder.translates to more brittle, wriggling it is a bad idea. Drill it straight in and straight out.
AIUI he wanted to destroy the screw while minimising damage to the outside of the lock. Straight in straight out would require a larger diameter bit and hence more visible damage.
I'm super excited. I finally found something I do better then the "LockPickingLawyer". Wow I'm learning so much about locks, this is amazing. Of course I have no real hands on experience as I am an expert with power tools, (I'm a home builder and bit of a gunsmith) so locks are merely objects I "expertly" destroy without damaging their surroundings. This video is close to my heart, although the picking videos are amazing due to my lack of skill in this department.
LOL... yeah, I can't say that I did a great job on this one, but it serves as a proof of concept, I think. As for your picking, just devote some practice time and you will be popping locks like crazy in short order.
Carbide is not to be used in this manner. Straight plunge with no side to side would work better. A tool that small will not stand the abuse you gave it. A cutter the diameter of the root diameter of the screw would be the best choice with a light straight approach. Cutter should be brought up to speed before contact with work surface. Carbide can not take impact and the ones you used are not the best quality. This is an educational reply no harm intended. We can never know everything about everything. We don’t know what we don’t know. I love your video which I recently found on RUclips. Thanks for the effort.
JIM C Only if using a high speed bit such as HSS. And to YT: The whole point was to leave the tiny hole undamaged or almost undamaged, sneak in and out, reassemble original lock with a new screw, leaving the owner unaware that someone was inside. Using a screw diameter drill would ruin the hole, making the owner realize something is wrong.
i almost died when i saw him go in so aggressive with those bits! btw john carbide should be run faster than hss. the high speed part of the name means it can cut faster than carbon steel but not carbide!
Great video. I like the concept now I got to check all of mine and make sure that can't be done. A simple solution on the 1105 is a tiny bearing in the hole and epoxy. You can drill a smaller hole away from the screw easily
+Grant Sipos Thanks. Rather than drilling another hole in the 1105, maybe you could put a lock washer in place that would allow water to drain out the screw hole, then out the bottom of the lock.
If they had located the drain hole above the threads and next to the head of the screw it would have thwarted this approach while still providing a functional weep hole. As you demonstrated, the design is wanting. Nice job.
An easy way to fix this exploit would be to thread the through hole for the screw at the bottom of the shackle hole to match the core below. That way even if the head were completely removed, the shank of the screw would still require rotation to be removed. The drain hole really needs to be at the bottom of the hole for it to serve it’s intended purpose, so moving that up would be essentially the same as removing it entirely, which would ruin your lock over time (if outside).
Not sure if it has been mentioned but I use my cordless Dremel with a 9901 cutting bit for things like this. I have yet to break one and that same bit can be used, very carefully, to cut tubular keys in a pinch
Great experiment. So weird most locks manufacturer obscures direct access to screw head but not the master lock :-) I know this was written in comments already many times but all I can think of while looking at the screw: damn so close.
+Mike Pergl Thanks. This Master wasn't the only one, but it definitely granted the most direct access of any lock that I own. Oddly enough, it also had one of the largest drain holes.
Wow, that's definitely a glaring vunerability, especially if a would-be thief did not care about hiding the drill-out-the-hole-and-screw-head attack. The lock-manufacturer made a perfect pilot-hole for such an operation.
I assumed you were going to tilt the axis of the hole inside the lock with the burr then drive the screw head round to undo it with a sharp punch. Looks like that could work even where the screws are recessed slightly
That Lockwood in the opening shot sure looks familiar. (; Can you share info on the rotary tool? It looks very nice - way nicer than my measly Dremel 200.
+Simon Klein It should look familiar! This is the rotary tool: www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/rotary-tools/flexible-shaft-grinder-and-carver-40432.html Harbor freight can be hit or miss, but this is a purchase that I have used often, and I have no regrets.
Why is it always Master locks? I thought it was because they would cheap out at every turn but this one isn't price at all, it's purely an issue of bad design. Aren't they a large enough company to employ competent designers experienced in the lock industry?
You could’ve just drilled it straight you were moving that lock side to side you that breaks the bit you could’ve had that lock on its side and drill it straight through without moving the lock or breaking the bits also by wiggling the drill and bits so next time don’t wiggle the lock or drill and it will work and have the lock on its side and drill straight no wiggling the lock or drill bit
Without watching past 2:20 I can tell this was gonna be an ambitious video. There's no way it would be easy to pull this off. EDIT i am shocked the screw didn't snap when you tried to remove it. I am sure you could repeat this experiment and pull it off with only 1 or 2 bits, with some care.
Riyame If you used the bur to greatly elongate the inside of the hole (without damaging the outside) this would certainly be possible; I've done it in other situations where a screw head was inaccessible from the top. A chisel could be used to punch the screw in the counterclockwise direction.
02:20 - Forgive me for necro'ing this very old (by internet standards) video, but can anybody (please!) tell me more about that kind of rotary tool? I'm much more inclined to use something like that over a Dremel.
Tolip Wen The carbide burr would not stand up to hammering. Or, it would get wedged in and you'd never get it out. A hardened chisel may work though, and I had thought the same. It depends how much clearance there is around the screw head.
What about decompressing a can of freon or similar into the hole to radically lower the temperature... followed by a spike and hammer attack in an attempt to shear the head cleanly while it is less able to deform. Is that even remotely doable? Alternatively, the smallest of pilot holes, compressed gas to freeze, and then a tapered spike - to decapitate. Thoughts?
I'm wondering if just a hard enough impact would work better. And if not under normal conditions, would it in very cold weather, or could you weaken the screw through that hole using a torch? Or, would it break if you weakened it by just drilling a straight hole through the screw, and then striking it?
The head is the only thing holding the cylinder in the lockbody, the rest of the screw would be stuck in the small "box" on the cylinder. So the idea is to either just destroy the lock so that you can get the contents of whatever it locks, or have a fresh cylinder and screw that also fit in the lockbody to claim the lock as your own.
Love the video mate but damn carbide x4? Would be much cheaper and easier to grind the shackle and buy a new lock off amazon for $10 then take the old one and get the bitting off it and master key the new one so both keys would work. Still love the experiment.
+Papa Gleb Cheap Chinese bits... $5 for the set of ten from some Chinese web store. That said, this whole experiment turned out to be much harder in practice than I thought it would be... better bits might make a difference, but this was never a practical exercise.
Neat tool. Looks like you made it yourself. This has an electric motor? At first I thought it may be pneumatic. Until you mentioned the foot pedal. Off topic. How safe is my trimax puck lock with the addition of the surrounding metal shield for prying. Base your input that it would not be picked.
Resisted about 5 minutes with a plan of attack, and still not open. I would give Master the WIN on that, but it also gives them a suggestion as to where they can modify production to thwart such an exploit.
Maybe a dumb question, but even if you made it though, wouldn't the threads still hold the core in place? Sure the head would be removed, but that wouldn't affect the threads holding the core further down, right?
That question also was in my head, but why did he say he was going to replace the skrewbolt when he was done? If he can pick the lock, take the screwbolt out fix whatever on the core, then put it back together, why cut off the head?
Those Allen screws are hardened. The simple solution would have been to insert one hungry rust maggot into the hole and come back after it had done its work. 🤪 In other words, inject concentrated Sulphuric acid into the hole, and wait for a few days.
That drill my me when I go to the dentist you was really close I think you made your point please do not use that drill it really my me when I go to the Dennis thank you you really do a good job keep up the good work bye-bye
The better attack would have been to go for the bottom of the screw , provided you have a replacement nut. Just use the burr to cut a slot so you can turn it with a screwdriver. Or cut it out completely.
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I'm a hobby machinist, and a simple fix would be to put a hardened screw in there. Carbide is very brittle and doesn't tolerate any flexing, so I'm not surprised they kept breaking. Might have had better luck with a good quality high speed steel end mill. Maybe. Thanks for the vid.
**holds Abus lock** most designers did protect drain holes, but not all **picks up a Master lock**
LOL
IKR, I laughed so hard when he picked up a 'master' … their fail is near legendary : )
"The basement, where locks go to die."
_"It rubs the WD-40 on its skin or it gets the drill again."_
Oh man, that was awesome!
🤣🤣🤣 bet that went over a lot of heads
It puts the Lotion on it's skin
Hey bro
Good one 😁
carbide is super brittle and does not like being loaded in multiple directions. doing an initial plunge with the carbide bit followed by a diamond burr on regular steel would likely work better
That or just less aggressive movements, he is hulking that thing. Going slow for sure takes longer but this could have been completed with a single bit. That being said I do agree it is hard to do this with out "proof" of being tampered
TurtleIsSlow2469 Maybe initial drilling with a more regular drill smaller than the hole, followed by digging with a "ball on a stick" shaped diamond bit (available cheaply in hardware stores, though maybe not in the size for this lock).
Love this guy but he sure has a long way to go when it comes to running hand tools. Hes a menace prying with a screwdriver!.
Vernon PGros Morne He’s much better now at least. This video is 3 years old.
Would have done better with a standard hss drill bit followed by ball head burr
Every machinist in the world is cringing right now at the use of the carbide.
Every mature machinist understands that not everyone has the knowledge they do and wouldn't "cringe" at such videos
Sometimes it seems Masterlock has to make deliberate efforts to include relatively easy exploits.
Yep, great exploit.
4 drill bits down and locks solid, those drill bits cost probably 5-10x what the lock itself cost.
I don't think the goal was to steal the lock.
excellent concept, unfortunately carbide is very brittle and breaks easily, i believe you could done it with 1 Cobalt drill bit. Cobalt is softer but last much longer then carbide. lower rpm for less heat and better steadiness, lessen the chance for injury in case something goes wrong.
“You’d be able to tell the lock was molested”😂😂 I’m dead
yep!
Oh man! I'd definitely call that a success. Very cool! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks... soooo close!
i mean like a comment with no replies 😅
Word of the day for 1 year ago. "This lock was MOLESTED" luv your vids 100% just my bad humor got the best of me
I am glad that you were honest about showing the broken drill bits. FYI, the drill bits are harder than the screw. Harder.translates to more brittle, wriggling it is a bad idea. Drill it straight in and straight out.
AIUI he wanted to destroy the screw while minimising damage to the outside of the lock. Straight in straight out would require a larger diameter bit and hence more visible damage.
"Drill it straight in and out" thats what she said
So happy you pursued being a Lawyer and NOT a Dentist!
I'm super excited. I finally found something I do better then the "LockPickingLawyer". Wow I'm learning so much about locks, this is amazing. Of course I have no real hands on experience as I am an expert with power tools, (I'm a home builder and bit of a gunsmith) so locks are merely objects I "expertly" destroy without damaging their surroundings. This video is close to my heart, although the picking videos are amazing due to my lack of skill in this department.
LOL... yeah, I can't say that I did a great job on this one, but it serves as a proof of concept, I think. As for your picking, just devote some practice time and you will be popping locks like crazy in short order.
Carbide is not to be used in this manner. Straight plunge with no side to side would work better. A tool that small will not stand the abuse you gave it. A cutter the diameter of the root diameter of the screw would be the best choice with a light straight approach. Cutter should be brought up to speed before contact with work surface. Carbide can not take impact and the ones you used are not the best quality. This is an educational reply no harm intended. We can never know everything about everything. We don’t know what we don’t know. I love your video which I recently found on RUclips. Thanks for the effort.
Adding to the above.Your air tool did not have enough RPMs. Run the tool at a higher speed and use light pressure on the carbide burr.
JIM
JIM C Only if using a high speed bit such as HSS. And to YT: The whole point was to leave the tiny hole undamaged or almost undamaged, sneak in and out, reassemble original lock with a new screw, leaving the owner unaware that someone was inside. Using a screw diameter drill would ruin the hole, making the owner realize something is wrong.
i almost died when i saw him go in so aggressive with those bits! btw john carbide should be run faster than hss. the high speed part of the name means it can cut faster than carbon steel but not carbide!
Watching this surely gave me some dentist flashbacks… but a great idea nonetheless!
Great video. I like the concept now I got to check all of mine and make sure that can't be done. A simple solution on the 1105 is a tiny bearing in the hole and epoxy. You can drill a smaller hole away from the screw easily
+Grant Sipos Thanks. Rather than drilling another hole in the 1105, maybe you could put a lock washer in place that would allow water to drain out the screw hole, then out the bottom of the lock.
So close. Great vid. I really enjoyed that.
+dirk Thanks.
why was I not surprised when you picked up a "master" lock?
It was always going to be ML or the American...
I knew that was going to be a Master lock even before you picked it up.
Holy shit did your video get much better with time. Fine wine lock picking time.
Master lock: *exist*
LPL: You are already picked.
Ah, the famous "Lawyer of the North Pick" quote. Never gets old.
*_"As you can see, I messed up the chuck hole a little bit."_* Wow...
He's a lawyer. Looking for tiny loopholes is a good thing. It carries over.
Good ol' carbide. Cuts through everything, but a strong wind'll snap a bit.
Love it when he says "however'...
If they had located the drain hole above the threads and next to the head of the screw it would have thwarted this approach while still providing a functional weep hole. As you demonstrated, the design is wanting. Nice job.
An easy way to fix this exploit would be to thread the through hole for the screw at the bottom of the shackle hole to match the core below. That way even if the head were completely removed, the shank of the screw would still require rotation to be removed. The drain hole really needs to be at the bottom of the hole for it to serve it’s intended purpose, so moving that up would be essentially the same as removing it entirely, which would ruin your lock over time (if outside).
Watching this makes me thankful that you're a lawyer and not a dentist. B'H.
"Not everyone was so careful..."
Thoughts of Master Lock comes to mind...
"This is a Master series-"
XD
Ah, this is the day LPL became a dentist. The lock didn't even got anesthesia - that pain it must had been for it!
Not sure if it has been mentioned but I use my cordless Dremel with a 9901 cutting bit for things like this. I have yet to break one and that same bit can be used, very carefully, to cut tubular keys in a pinch
Master Lock design team: "We beat him!"
Yes, I was wondering how you operate drill, and guessed right.
after watching this, i will never go to the dentist again
0:40 _Not everyone, was so careful. This is a Master.._ Oooof course.
Great experiment. So weird most locks manufacturer obscures direct access to screw head but not the master lock :-)
I know this was written in comments already many times but all I can think of while looking at the screw: damn so close.
+Mike Pergl Thanks. This Master wasn't the only one, but it definitely granted the most direct access of any lock that I own. Oddly enough, it also had one of the largest drain holes.
Wow, that's definitely a glaring vunerability, especially if a would-be thief did not care about hiding the drill-out-the-hole-and-screw-head attack. The lock-manufacturer made a perfect pilot-hole for such an operation.
I actually laughed out loud at this: "However, not everyone was so careful." *reaches for a Master lock...*
What you needed is the Dremel 134 metal carving bit. They come in small (match tip sized) down to micro.
Masterlock did it again! Unfortunatelly...
I assumed you were going to tilt the axis of the hole inside the lock with the burr then drive the screw head round to undo it with a sharp punch. Looks like that could work even where the screws are recessed slightly
Don't use carbide bits as they are too brittle. Use High Speed Steel bits.
Great job on this one brother,thanks for sharing it with us
LockPickingLawyer
That is a very good idea. I'll have to try it out
Thanks for the suggestion
+Grant Sipos Thanks. Good luck!
"should have gone more to the left.". That's what she said. Bazing!
Have you followed up on this since? I'd be really interested in a video of you managing this completely.
A grinding tool and cutter that spins the opposite way so as to bring the screw up and take it off below the head at the same time.
Not surprised that it’s a masterlock that has that exploit 😂
Need a lockpicking dentist for that lock!
I sure picked the wrong video to watch, considering I have a dentist appointment tomorrow...
That Lockwood in the opening shot sure looks familiar. (;
Can you share info on the rotary tool? It looks very nice - way nicer than my measly Dremel 200.
+Simon Klein It should look familiar! This is the rotary tool: www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/rotary-tools/flexible-shaft-grinder-and-carver-40432.html Harbor freight can be hit or miss, but this is a purchase that I have used often, and I have no regrets.
I'm the lock picking lawyer and today I will show you how to exploit a lock and destroy drill bits in the process.
You're using that burr like a brute. It's carbide dude, that stuff is brittle. Take your time and you won't brake any bits.
Not quite the Cannoli.. but damn close, Great vid as alway HT!
+l0ckcr4ck3r Thanks. It kills me that I came so damned close. I almost got a different lock and reshot the video, but was too lazy. :-(
If u took the head of the retaining screw off would that not just mean u wouldn't b able to unscrew it and the barrel would stay in place?
Definitely the hardest way in a Master Lock
What is that rotary tool? It’s sweet looking!
I wonder if you could use a slide hammer to pull the core out?
Why is it always Master locks? I thought it was because they would cheap out at every turn but this one isn't price at all, it's purely an issue of bad design. Aren't they a large enough company to employ competent designers experienced in the lock industry?
i`m surprised the bolt head didnt snap off when you took it out with the allen key!
Wonder if you could use somthing like a small chisel and a slide hammer..
Maybe. Not sure.
With how close the screw was to getting bored through, I have to wonder if just giving a tug on the core would have finished it off.
You could’ve just drilled it straight you were moving that lock side to side you that breaks the bit you could’ve had that lock on its side and drill it straight through without moving the lock or breaking the bits also by wiggling the drill and bits so next time don’t wiggle the lock or drill and it will work and have the lock on its side and drill straight no wiggling the lock or drill bit
Without watching past 2:20 I can tell this was gonna be an ambitious video. There's no way it would be easy to pull this off. EDIT i am shocked the screw didn't snap when you tried to remove it. I am sure you could repeat this experiment and pull it off with only 1 or 2 bits, with some care.
That reminds me, I have a dentist appointment tomorrow.
I wonder if you could use something to dig into the screw and leverage it side to side to unsscrew the screw.
+mresurm I wondered the same, and tried. No luck, even if I loosened the screw ahead of time.
Riyame If you used the bur to greatly elongate the inside of the hole (without damaging the outside) this would certainly be possible; I've done it in other situations where a screw head was inaccessible from the top. A chisel could be used to punch the screw in the counterclockwise direction.
02:20 - Forgive me for necro'ing this very old (by internet standards) video, but can anybody (please!) tell me more about that kind of rotary tool? I'm much more inclined to use something like that over a Dremel.
Dentist visit flashbacks.
Reassemble and try using broken tool bit as chisel with hammer.
Or,,, just make a hardened chisel that fits the hole.
+Tolip Wen Not a bad idea... thanks.
Tolip Wen The carbide burr would not stand up to hammering. Or, it would get wedged in and you'd never get it out. A hardened chisel may work though, and I had thought the same. It depends how much clearance there is around the screw head.
Question: What's the matter with ASSA ABLOY buying up every single smaller lock companies left right center up down back and front?
What about decompressing a can of freon or similar into the hole to radically lower the temperature... followed by a spike and hammer attack in an attempt to shear the head cleanly while it is less able to deform. Is that even remotely doable? Alternatively, the smallest of pilot holes, compressed gas to freeze, and then a tapered spike - to decapitate. Thoughts?
what about a standard drill? Wouldn't that center itself on its way through the allen head screw?
Ah, cool, thanks.
Imagine hearing:
One is binding
Two is loose
Three is loose
Four is set
From your back door.
Could it be possible to use a tiny chisel to catch an edge on that screw head and turn it loose?
I'm wondering if just a hard enough impact would work better.
And if not under normal conditions, would it in very cold weather, or could you weaken the screw through that hole using a torch?
Or, would it break if you weakened it by just drilling a straight hole through the screw, and then striking it?
What's that hole supposed to be there for? Could they plug it with a spot-weld?
If you separate the head from the screw, how would you unscrew this screw??
The head is the only thing holding the cylinder in the lockbody, the rest of the screw would be stuck in the small "box" on the cylinder.
So the idea is to either just destroy the lock so that you can get the contents of whatever it locks, or have a fresh cylinder and screw that also fit in the lockbody to claim the lock as your own.
8:30 just have a listen
Love the video mate but damn carbide x4? Would be much cheaper and easier to grind the shackle and buy a new lock off amazon for $10 then take the old one and get the bitting off it and master key the new one so both keys would work. Still love the experiment.
+Papa Gleb Cheap Chinese bits... $5 for the set of ten from some Chinese web store. That said, this whole experiment turned out to be much harder in practice than I thought it would be... better bits might make a difference, but this was never a practical exercise.
That drill that your, any more info on it, and where did you get it
Neat tool. Looks like you made it yourself. This has an electric motor? At first I thought it may be pneumatic. Until you mentioned the foot pedal. Off topic. How safe is my trimax puck lock with the addition of the surrounding metal shield for prying. Base your input that it would not be picked.
It's a common tool in the jewelry industry.
buen trabajo. has estado apunto de conseguir. buena idea. SALUDOS
+adrian leon Gracias.
I'd call that a successful attempt. Well done!
Thanks.
Resisted about 5 minutes with a plan of attack, and still not open. I would give Master the WIN on that, but it also gives them a suggestion as to where they can modify production to thwart such an exploit.
Maybe a dumb question, but even if you made it though, wouldn't the threads still hold the core in place? Sure the head would be removed, but that wouldn't affect the threads holding the core further down, right?
That question also was in my head, but why did he say he was going to replace the skrewbolt when he was done? If he can pick the lock, take the screwbolt out fix whatever on the core, then put it back together, why cut off the head?
Those Allen screws are hardened. The simple solution would have been to insert one hungry rust maggot into the hole and come back after it had done its work. 🤪
In other words, inject concentrated Sulphuric acid into the hole, and wait for a few days.
Great attempt but maybe the hole is a tad off center. Oh, what camera do you use, that clarity and focus is awesome? Cheers 🙃👍
LPL stars in the remake of the film Marathon Man
"Is it safe?" :-)
I need to visit the dentist for a filling.
You should be using a carbide ball type burr
That drill my me when I go to the dentist you was really close I think you made your point please do not use that drill it really my me when I go to the Dennis thank you you really do a good job keep up the good work bye-bye
How did that screw even hold together on the way out lol
This type of exploitation seemed a "bit""point"less. 😉
The better attack would have been to go for the bottom of the screw , provided you have a replacement nut. Just use the burr to cut a slot so you can turn it with a screwdriver. Or cut it out completely.
Did I “break” another one.
The Lock Picking Dentist.
And master locks are supposed to be the very best. What is the best lock to buy?
nice video man. Have you tried to use a tiny drill bit first before using the burr?
+TheTrh51 Thanks... not a bad idea. I only made one attempt, so no, I didn't try a drill.
what was the price of the bit's compared to the lock.? just wondering.
a ball or pear shaped bur perhaps would be interesting
What about plugging the hole with epoxy and freezing the lock with water in it?