OH MAN! I have been watching (and re-watching) this series and thinking about applications for the real world. I just decided on a practical application that suits my real life needs. I was raised by an electrician (father), and trained by a woodworker/craftsman (Grandfather), and taught myself computers/electronics/coding/general engineering. These three parts of my education have finally come together thanks to your encouragement to learn and not just follow along. I do not know if you are familiar with woodworking tools, however, last year I bought a fancy 3.25 plunge router and built a router lift table to set the depth using a crank handle and lift kit. I am going to use a geared stepper motor, and either an IR remote control or keypad to set the depth of cut using a modified digital micrometer to achieve exact and repeatable cuts without needing a crank handle and measurement tools. It will move the router head to within 2 thousands of an inch of the desired depth, and also display the depth settings on an LCD panel. Your math and engineering tutelage have inspired me to not only build play things, but also create or improve upon the tools I can and will use frequently in my woodcraft hobby. This may be a general lesson intended for all levels of experience, but the result for me was that by going back to the basics, I got this old nerdy brain cranking and creating again. 2 thumbs up!
I watched all of your sessions and this was the most challenging. I wrote the code and mentally it would all work, never considered noise would be the thing causing my motor to not do anything else. Thank you Paul for everything you taught me.
When you say that noise is affecting your dc motor how did you solve it and could you hear the noise, just asking because I’m trying to code it but whenever I write “if (myCom==“pwr”) and the rest of the if statement the motor does nothing
@@randonm9900 What he means by 'noise' is the electronic noise. Signals through the 5v line to the dc motor are interfereing with signals through the same 5v line as the sensor. So by separating the power sources/5v lines, those signals interact less. I'm a beginner myself so this my own educated interpretation. I seperated the sensor to other half of breadboard for best results.
I struggled with this for hours and finally gave up. Recognizing that PWM does not work on my Nano Every''s pin 6 and seeing your noise reduction techniques allowed me to complete the homework. Thanks again for your most excellent course!
You are such a amazing teacher. I have just two videos to finish this long journey with you Paul. And I repeat again to watch you understand fully to make me a doer not only watcher. I just to say God bless you. Thank you.
Before starting this lesson, I got the circuit built, code written, compiled, loaded and it all worked first attempt, however I added a capacitor as a noise filter across the power inputs to the L293D to ensure that the circuit would work reliably. I also modified your instructions so the Pwr button would turn motor on High, and if the Pwr button is pressed again, the motor turns off. I am really enjoying learning from you and listening to your "patter" which adds to the entertainment and retains attention.
I did the homework, but was stymied by the RF gremlins. I ended up with a capacitor inline and an additional 6 FEET OF WIRE separating the motor and remote, with the motor siting in a plastic cap, inside of a ceramic bowl, with a tinfoil shield before I could get the remote (Shielded on three sides) to recognize anything after the motor powered on! I have the world's RF-iest tiny motor!!! As always; Thanks so much, Paul!
Did everything perfect and made a bool expression for my pwr button to use it as a on and off button BUT I couldn't get it to work past the first click. Watched your video, added a small capacitor, and it worked perfectly. It's these little tiny problems that you teach us about (noise) that is so valuable to learn about for future projects! Thank you, going to do your other arduino videos before I go on to AI!
Another great lesson! I was able to get it working on my own. I still had my IR sensor hooked up to the Arduino power and it worked. When I moved the power to the power rail, it stopped working. I moved it back to the Arduino. Thanks for explaining the noise issue as I did not know why it worked one way and not the other. That alone was a very valuable lesson!
Smashed it!!! This was a fun exercise. I had quite a bit of trouble getting the fan to reverse direction, but after some good Paul inspired problem solving I realized the motor controller wasn't seated in the breadboard completely. Pushed it in and BOOM! it worked like a charm.
Arduino projects along with big cup of ice coffee is the best thing I have learned this summer. Thanks Paul. Also, following your Robotics and Raspberry Pi lessons. Love from India.
I tried before watching this video. And i made it! I started from scratch, didn't just copy paste the code from Lesson 65...to solidify the new commands. Definitely not a one-time-big-time, got some shady results the first try and improved the logic in the process... I've learned so much with this series Sir Paul. Thank you very much!
Great Series! My IR remotye started sending "FFFFFFFF" for ever command, but I did the build and followed along. Got a cheep NANO knock-off, likewise it didn't work, so I'm returning that one an ordered some Elegoo NANOs and feeling somewhat confident about my journey into MIDI controllers! Thanks again for the great series!
I´m a doer. i did it simular to the way we controlled the motor with the 2 push buttons, works fine. maybe more code then neccesary. I had the same problem with receiving the ir signals while the motor is running. I solved it with some more distance to the motor. great lesson, thanks a lot. hope to see more of these arduino tutorials
I am a legend... Phew, this one was tough one! After two evenings of struggling with my code I was about to give up, but then I saw Paul's stern look again...
Hey Paul, thanks for this amazing Arduino Tutorial. I did the assignment for lesson 65 and i was also able to complete this lesson's assignment. Thank you for everything you have taught us so far. I am excited to see what we will be learning next!
Hi Paul , I was able to do it myself, but only because I watched your lessons and built every project by myself. Thank you for these great lessons and please keep up the good work. Manny thanks from Austria.
It took me an hour to make this IR receiver working, and it eventually turned out that I coded pin 11 IRpin, and I pluged it to pin 9 :> .... This project was totally awsome! I added stepper motor to change the direction in which the fan is "blowing" and lcd to show the motor speed. I tried to power up motors by battery and the rest from arduino and it worked perfectly, altough I had 2 different grounds.
I have done the homework and it is working as expected. Thanks so much for the every informative lessons. I am feeling confident that I now have a good understanding if Ardunio programming. A VERY EXCELLENT COURSE!!!
Hi Paul, Thanks for the great tutorials. I did this project myself this morning. I used switch cases rather than loads of if statements and had a few simply functions I wrote to Power on, Power off, Reverse direction, Speed Up, Slow down, ad full power. Using the switch cases I called the appropriate function for that button. As direction change was jerky I also slowed the fan in 2 steps before flipping direction and then sped back up to original speed so I preserve the speed setting during a direction change if the fan had been slowed down. All works really well and uses 9528 bytes of storage.
Paul, we are in a similar age bracket. You really do great work. Keep advising people to ACT, and take their life in their hands rather than follow the crowd, copy, and hunt for/send around BS on "social" networks. Learned a lot myself. Thank you.
I got the homework working sort of, but was having a power problem because I was trying to power the Arduino and the motor off of the power supply board. I peeked at your solution and saw the independent power supplies. After changing one wire, my project works perfectly. Sad to say, we are almost at the end (temporary) of this great series!
Another great project. Thanks Paul, I will pass this on to my students. This one really requires good wiring. I had a short in one wire and thankfully, I used your debugging method to find the problem.
I'm sorry Paul, the noise problem stumped me, I mapped out all the code on paper but couldn't get past the remote not functioning after the first command until I watched your video. I ended up reading up on noise after this and learnt a lot. Thanks again!
I figured out how to do this lesson by my self. (I had to watch a bit of lesson 37) but I left the 5v rail to the Arduino but it still worked. Also I went straight to the hex numbers in the "if" loops instead of myCom, I did it as well with +/- 15 increments
after watching the first part of the code I started doing it myself. and I did the homework myself without even knowing that it is going to be the homework cuz I always hold my breath during this XD. you teach very well.
As always, very good lesson. Had to deal with noise from the motor. besides using separate power from nano board, also needed to use an RC filter at the sensor power pin, 10uF cap and 100 ohm resistor, to quiet things down where it worked. However, when I used AC power adapter instead of 9V, the noise once again swamped the sensor. Did the HW with 1-9 fan speed settings. Thanks again Paul.
Hi Paul, Did this one myself and as mentioned by others before me, this one was the most challenging. Especially the issue with noise affecting sensors. All great learning and delivered calmly and in a fun and amusing way. Loving the series, shame I'm nearly at the end...
Capacitors are by far the way to go. Kits are very cheap but it also good to show that it’s possible to solve other ways. I built a circuit for a claw machine with the 16x2 screen and the 48V claw magnetic coil was quite an obstacle to overcome lol.
I did 98% of it by myself. But I got to admit, you saved my butt there. I encountered the exact same problem with you. so thank you for saving me Paul hahahahah.
Hey Mr Paul. Thank for the great lessons. You trully a master! And yes i've done all the home work and lessons. 99% of the mistakes I make is programming wise....bit im getting there!!! Tnx again for the great lessons!
This was definitely one of my favorite homework assignments, I spent a lot of time playing with this and I even added an LCD, because why not LOL. But I did have problems with controlling the speed of the DC motor. This is the code I ended up with: #include #include IRrecv IR(10); decode_results in; int rs = 9; int en = 8; int D4 = 4; int D5 = 5; int D6 = 6; int D7 = 7; LiquidCrystal LCD(rs, en, D4, D5, D6, D7); int IN1 = 11; int IN2 = 12; int Motor = A2; int SPD = 102; int dt1 = 1000; int dt2 = 800; void setup() { LCD.begin(16,2); IR.enableIRIn();
ooooomg the speed control drove me crazy. Checking power inputs, using the other side of the motor control chip, setting serial prints if the mSpeed and just couldn't get the fan to change speed. I then checked the Arduino Uno curious why you chose pin 5 and realized its bc it was a squiggly pin. On the nano I can't tell so I had it on pin 8 so it wasn't getting any analog readings.....lol. The noise thing was new though. I figured that one out on my own but thought maybe it was the motor using up all the power but apparently it was noise. Learned a lot with this one. Thanks!
Yes I was able to finish the homework with a few problems but with success. This was a fun project really adds what you can do within a given project using an IR remote. Looking forward to the robot project and using IR remote on it. Have a great week.
I did the homework but had the noise issues you had and I couldn't figure out how to fix it. I was able to come closer after watching the video but it is still glitchy. I tried adding a capacitor but not sure if I added it the right way. I just put the capacitor in between the positive and negative of the motor. It seemed to help but not completely. This project was frustrating not knowing why I was having the issues. My code was very similar to yours so I felt good about doing that part right. I'm still learning, which is why I'm watching your tutorials. Thanks again.
Got it working. Had motor noise and added a 104pf from my Elegoo "Most Complete" Starter Kit. Knew I had noise because I added monitoring of IR HEX, mSpeed and myCom but watched how you corrected for it.
Thank you Paul for another fun lesson. I was able to do this one on my own and came back and watched your video. I too had interface problems, but was able to correct. Looking forward to the next one.
This lesson had me pulling my hair out. I rewired the board several times, went over the code again and again. But in the end, guess what I did? When I removed the 5v from the breadboard to the Arduino, I also removed the ground. I never thought that it would matter, but once I put that small wire in...BOOM! The motor came alive, lol. This stuff drives me slowly insane, but I love it!!! Maybe this will help someone else with this lesson.
Yes, I did my homework and it was interesting to see you go through nearly the same exact troubleshooting issues as I did. I tried putting capacitors across everything but I just could not get it to work reliably with shared power. I had to have separate supplies for the nano and the motor circuit. Otherwise it just wouldn't work right. Good project. I learned a lot.
Dear prof I really don't know what the future deserves for me, but now I know that I can do anything, just a little bit of hard work......... Thank you prof
Hi Paul, I wrote my code, checked it remade the motor circuit with an Arduino, tested the power button and yes BOOM! it turned on, then I noticed my IR detector light was flashing slightly and I thought oops I've wired something wrong. I spent the next hour checking and rechecking code and circuit, I even swapped out the Nano (the second one need the old boot loader so yet another pfaf) I too noticed that the remote worked fine when the motor was disconnected and thought maybe I could stick a capacitor across the 5V line to snub it out, couldn't find anything except a 10uF but that didn't work.I even moved the sensor away from the motor on longer wires but they obviously weren't long enough. In the end I thought Id just watch the video and see what I had done wrong, Soooo glad you got the same response. mine is now working fine. Sometimes I hate electronics, but only for about 5 minutes. This kind of fault also ensures that the pupil realises it doesn't always work the way you expected it to, even though it works fine on paper. Great video.
I had partial success with the project because of bad coding. Finally gave up on debhgging and watched your lesson haha BTW very good tips as always. Thanks
Also had problem with electrical noise. But after I watched video to that part, I was able to write code by myself (little different, but works). I also tried to add capacitor 0,1uF to the circuit, it also solved the problem.
.... Couldn't sleep so I jumped on. After 40 min I uploaded to the wrong code saved file, then kept working on the correct file. Realized what I did wrong and tried to recover, then just copied the code from TTB..... Yeah, I'll be back after work and restart this lesson. It's coming easy but I'm out of time this morning. Great Video.
Of the options you gave. I could not answer the "I Tried but....". All I can say is: "I tried.... and blew-out my IR Receiver". And no, didn't blow the Nano....I verified. Pheewwwww..... I have another IR Receiver on order in the "ELEGOO Upgraded 37 in 1 Sensor Modules Kit". Once I receive that, (tomorrow), I will verify my connections & try again. I'm not a quitter!
After finding out the supply problem (I hooked all to the Uno), I introduced the common grounding problem and got all weird values from the IR remote. Changing batteries and using another remote didn't help ... You helped me though ... finally it came to work properly and feel like a happy "old" kid ...
I got it to work using a function that translated codes using switch case. I failed at first because the wait for printing code in the original code from the last assignment. Once I figured that out I was able to incorporate reverse and using the on off. Both of those required a variable to "remember" the previous state. Lots of fun here.
I too have done the homework and enjoyed it. Lots of ways to adapt this for "real world" projects, which I assume is everyone's goal. Okay, until there are more arduino tutorials, I'm off to your robot tutorials.
Once I finally got the library figured out in the last lesson, this one was easy. I still had the code saved from the one with the motor and joystick so I was able to copy some pieces from it to remind me what I was doing on this one.
Watched your video just to see what you have done to get the remote to work because of noise.I tried to extend the wires and so far that is working very well, now back to project and clean up some code.:P
Wonderful lesson, Paul. I used the other side of the L293D ( pins 9-16) and had to connect pin 8 to power the motor and pin 16 to power the IC. Odd considering the IC power pin wasn't required here when working with pins 1 - 8. I also ran into the noise issue and will definitely try the capacitor solution you mentioned, thanks!
After you twisted the motor wires, I did the same with mine and was able to remove the capacitor. I did not think about twisting the wires despite my network experience. LOL.
Good lesson Paul! We wrote some nice code, made everything work but got stuck on the motor disturbing the remote control. This we didn't solve. In retrospective we were on it though. We separated the power supply from the Arduino but did'nt think about twisting the power-cords together for the motor.
I forgot the power supply and was wondering why the IR stopped working whenever the motor was going above 210. Kept trying to troubleshoot then noticed the motor stopped pretty high at 120 which I remember it stopping at 75. That’s when I remembered power supply (Facepalm) Thanks for going into enough detail during your lessons to be able to troubleshoot these things without having to cheat and watch ahead.
Hello Paul,I did the homework only partly. I managed to set the code for forward, backward, motor stop, full speed. Before I get down to do the variable speed, I need to tackle the problem of the IR sensor that locks up when the motor is set to high speed ( the serial monitor shows no further readings ). I am using the HW-131 power module which is connected to an external power supply of 12V input and max current of 2 amps. Once the IR sensor freezes, the power supply to pin 8 of the L293 motor driver has to be disconnected to enable the sensor to function again( and get readings from the serial monitor). Now to watch this video to see where I went wrong....
No IR receiver response after motor started. Didn't understand that it was noise related. But I figured out that the receiver became responsive after I moved the wires leading from the Arduino digital pins to the motor controller away from the IR receiver. So it was noise from the signal wires, not from the motor itself that was causing the problem. After that, it worked like a charm.
I was able to do the homework. Ran into the same problem you did and solved it the same way with the arduino directly powering the IR receiver. You mentioned that you could use a capacitor as well. I have the larger version of the elegoo kit which came with capacitors. Which one would I use and exactly where would I place it?
Ok this was a tough one. I eventually figured out that pin 3~ will have a small negative voltage if you analog write anything other than 255, but only if IR.enableIRIn(); or IrReceiver.begin(IRpin); are in the code. Changing my motor speed pin from 3~ to 5~ fixed all of my problems.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Mamushi (Remix) [feat. TWICE] [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5c0_u9PsrsQ/mqdefault.jpg)
OH MAN! I have been watching (and re-watching) this series and thinking about applications for the real world. I just decided on a practical application that suits my real life needs. I was raised by an electrician (father), and trained by a woodworker/craftsman (Grandfather), and taught myself computers/electronics/coding/general engineering. These three parts of my education have finally come together thanks to your encouragement to learn and not just follow along.
I do not know if you are familiar with woodworking tools, however, last year I bought a fancy 3.25 plunge router and built a router lift table to set the depth using a crank handle and lift kit. I am going to use a geared stepper motor, and either an IR remote control or keypad to set the depth of cut using a modified digital micrometer to achieve exact and repeatable cuts without needing a crank handle and measurement tools. It will move the router head to within 2 thousands of an inch of the desired depth, and also display the depth settings on an LCD panel. Your math and engineering tutelage have inspired me to not only build play things, but also create or improve upon the tools I can and will use frequently in my woodcraft hobby.
This may be a general lesson intended for all levels of experience, but the result for me was that by going back to the basics, I got this old nerdy brain cranking and creating again. 2 thumbs up!
I’ve done the homework and I’ve also included a servo motor so I can also move the fan to my desired angle. Thanks for the content
lol
Even I tried doing the same but ... I don't know why the servo is sending reverse current into the IR sensor
Realtime troubleshooting makes these lectures so addictive. That's best way to learn new things especially electronics. Thank you Mr. Paul
I watched all of your sessions and this was the most challenging. I wrote the code and mentally it would all work, never considered noise would be the thing causing my motor to not do anything else. Thank you Paul for everything you taught me.
When you say that noise is affecting your dc motor how did you solve it and could you hear the noise, just asking because I’m trying to code it but whenever I write “if (myCom==“pwr”) and the rest of the if statement the motor does nothing
@@randonm9900 What he means by 'noise' is the electronic noise. Signals through the 5v line to the dc motor are interfereing with signals through the same 5v line as the sensor. So by separating the power sources/5v lines, those signals interact less. I'm a beginner myself so this my own educated interpretation. I seperated the sensor to other half of breadboard for best results.
I struggled with this for hours and finally gave up. Recognizing that PWM does not work on my Nano Every''s pin 6 and seeing your noise reduction techniques allowed me to complete the homework. Thanks again for your most excellent course!
thanks, you are far better than all of my college professors , thank you again Paul
You are such a amazing teacher. I have just two videos to finish this long journey with you Paul. And I repeat again to watch you understand fully to make me a doer not only watcher. I just to say God bless you. Thank you.
Before starting this lesson, I got the circuit built, code written, compiled, loaded and it all
worked first attempt, however I added a capacitor as a noise filter across the power inputs to the L293D to ensure that the circuit would work reliably. I also modified your instructions so the Pwr button would turn motor on High, and if the Pwr button is pressed again, the motor turns off. I am really enjoying learning from you and listening to your "patter" which adds to the entertainment and retains attention.
I did the homework, but was stymied by the RF gremlins. I ended up with a capacitor inline and an additional 6 FEET OF WIRE separating the motor and remote, with the motor siting in a plastic cap, inside of a ceramic bowl, with a tinfoil shield before I could get the remote (Shielded on three sides) to recognize anything after the motor powered on!
I have the world's RF-iest tiny motor!!!
As always; Thanks so much, Paul!
Did everything perfect and made a bool expression for my pwr button to use it as a on and off button BUT I couldn't get it to work past the first click. Watched your video, added a small capacitor, and it worked perfectly. It's these little tiny problems that you teach us about (noise) that is so valuable to learn about for future projects! Thank you, going to do your other arduino videos before I go on to AI!
Another great lesson! I was able to get it working on my own. I still had my IR sensor hooked up to the Arduino power and it worked. When I moved the power to the power rail, it stopped working. I moved it back to the Arduino. Thanks for explaining the noise issue as I did not know why it worked one way and not the other. That alone was a very valuable lesson!
I did the homework, and after some troubleshooting the IR and motor worked just fine! Thank you for excellent lessons!
I've done this homework using the new ir remote library v3. Thankyou sir for helping us to learn Arduino.
This is a great tutorial. You have taken much pain to make it work. Thanks a lot.
Smashed it!!! This was a fun exercise. I had quite a bit of trouble getting the fan to reverse direction, but after some good Paul inspired problem solving I realized the motor controller wasn't seated in the breadboard completely. Pushed it in and BOOM! it worked like a charm.
Fantastic!
Arduino projects along with big cup of ice coffee is the best thing I have learned this summer.
Thanks Paul. Also, following your Robotics and Raspberry Pi lessons.
Love from India.
I tried before watching this video. And i made it!
I started from scratch, didn't just copy paste the code from Lesson 65...to solidify the new commands.
Definitely not a one-time-big-time, got some shady results the first try and improved the logic in the process...
I've learned so much with this series Sir Paul. Thank you very much!
Great Series! My IR remotye started sending "FFFFFFFF" for ever command, but I did the build and followed along. Got a cheep NANO knock-off, likewise it didn't work, so I'm returning that one an ordered some Elegoo NANOs and feeling somewhat confident about my journey into MIDI controllers! Thanks again for the great series!
I´m a doer. i did it simular to the way we controlled the motor with the 2 push buttons, works fine. maybe more code then neccesary. I had the same problem with receiving the ir signals while the motor is running. I solved it with some more distance to the motor. great lesson, thanks a lot. hope to see more of these arduino tutorials
I needed a little help to get over the hump, but we were successful with your tutelage, thanks again.
I am a legend... Phew, this one was tough one! After two evenings of struggling with my code I was about to give up, but then I saw Paul's stern look again...
I tried and I was successful. Pretty simple based on what we've learned so far.
I got it done using switch case statements and also used if statements. Works really good. Thank you Paul
Hey Paul, thanks for this amazing Arduino Tutorial. I did the assignment for lesson 65 and i was also able to complete this lesson's assignment. Thank you for everything you have taught us so far. I am excited to see what we will be learning next!
Nice work!
This project was super fun, when I did it on my own I had some trouble but the video helped a lot!
Did it and worked well after a while. Used the nano and L298N plus a different IR remote. Great learning.
Nice 👍
Hi Paul , I was able to do it myself, but only because I watched your lessons and built every project by myself. Thank you for these great lessons and please keep up the good work. Manny thanks from Austria.
Great job!
It took me an hour to make this IR receiver working, and it eventually turned out that I coded pin 11 IRpin, and I pluged it to pin 9 :> .... This project was totally awsome! I added stepper motor to change the direction in which the fan is "blowing" and lcd to show the motor speed. I tried to power up motors by battery and the rest from arduino and it worked perfectly, altough I had 2 different grounds.
I have done the homework and it is working as expected. Thanks so much for the every informative lessons. I am feeling confident that I now have a good understanding if Ardunio programming. A VERY EXCELLENT COURSE!!!
Great job!
Hi Paul, Thanks for the great tutorials.
I did this project myself this morning. I used switch cases rather than loads of if statements and had a few simply functions I wrote to Power on, Power off, Reverse direction, Speed Up, Slow down, ad full power.
Using the switch cases I called the appropriate function for that button.
As direction change was jerky I also slowed the fan in 2 steps before flipping direction and then sped back up to original speed so I preserve the speed setting during a direction change if the fan had been slowed down.
All works really well and uses 9528 bytes of storage.
Paul, we are in a similar age bracket. You really do great work. Keep advising people to ACT, and take their life in their hands rather than follow the crowd, copy, and hunt for/send around BS on "social" networks. Learned a lot myself. Thank you.
Well said!
I got the homework working sort of, but was having a power problem because I was trying to power the Arduino and the motor off of the power supply board. I peeked at your solution and saw the independent power supplies. After changing one wire, my project works perfectly. Sad to say, we are almost at the end (temporary) of this great series!
Another great project. Thanks Paul, I will pass this on to my students. This one really requires good wiring. I had a short in one wire and thankfully, I used your debugging method to find the problem.
Excellent!
I'm sorry Paul, the noise problem stumped me, I mapped out all the code on paper but couldn't get past the remote not functioning after the first command until I watched your video. I ended up reading up on noise after this and learnt a lot. Thanks again!
I figured out how to do this lesson by my self. (I had to watch a bit of lesson 37) but I left the 5v rail to the Arduino but it still worked. Also I went straight to the hex numbers in the "if" loops instead of myCom, I did it as well with +/- 15 increments
ive gotten into arduino to learn how to control rgb lights with ir controler, i think i just found a new hobby with arduino, thanks paul
I did the homework on my own. Thank a lot mr. Paul for all the amazing lessons.
Thank you Paul, enjoyed the lesson. I had it mostly right, needed your help with forward & reverse commands.
Your tutorials are amazing. Thanks for making those videos that helped me lot and gonna help me more!
Just had to refresh on the lesson how to hook up the DC controller, otherwise this was pretty easy! love this.
after watching the first part of the code I started doing it myself. and I did the homework myself without even knowing that it is going to be the homework cuz I always hold my breath during this XD. you teach very well.
Thank you Paul, Had the same issue with the noise, but got it working now. Having a great time with your tutorials. :D
As always, very good lesson. Had to deal with noise from the motor. besides using separate power from nano board, also needed to use an RC filter at the sensor power pin, 10uF cap and 100 ohm resistor, to quiet things down where it worked. However, when I used AC power adapter instead of 9V, the noise once again swamped the sensor. Did the HW with 1-9 fan speed settings.
Thanks again Paul.
Hi Paul,
Did this one myself and as mentioned by others before me, this one was the most challenging. Especially the issue with noise affecting sensors. All great learning and delivered calmly and in a fun and amusing way. Loving the series, shame I'm nearly at the end...
after struggling for hours, i discovered that my ir sensor was broken the entire time. i am a legend.
Did the Home work and was successful !!!!!
Thank you Paul , Great Video !!!
Cant wait to start the Robotic Tutorials !!!
Fantastic!
Capacitors are by far the way to go. Kits are very cheap but it also good to show that it’s possible to solve other ways. I built a circuit for a claw machine with the 16x2 screen and the 48V claw magnetic coil was quite an obstacle to overcome lol.
I tried and was successful...eventually, after a bit of debugging. Great lesson. Much appreciated.
I did 98% of it by myself. But I got to admit, you saved my butt there. I encountered the exact same problem with you. so thank you for saving me Paul hahahahah.
Hey Mr Paul. Thank for the great lessons. You trully a master!
And yes i've done all the home work and lessons.
99% of the mistakes I make is programming wise....bit im getting there!!!
Tnx again for the great lessons!
Brilliant. Yep, completed the homework and 100% worked great.
Excellent!
This was definitely one of my favorite homework assignments, I spent a lot of time playing with this and I even added an LCD, because why not LOL. But I did have problems with controlling the speed of the DC motor. This is the code I ended up with:
#include
#include
IRrecv IR(10);
decode_results in;
int rs = 9;
int en = 8;
int D4 = 4;
int D5 = 5;
int D6 = 6;
int D7 = 7;
LiquidCrystal LCD(rs, en, D4, D5, D6, D7);
int IN1 = 11;
int IN2 = 12;
int Motor = A2;
int SPD = 102;
int dt1 = 1000;
int dt2 = 800;
void setup() {
LCD.begin(16,2);
IR.enableIRIn();
pinMode(IN1, OUTPUT);
pinMode(IN2, OUTPUT);
pinMode(Motor, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(IN1, LOW);
digitalWrite(IN2, HIGH);
}
void loop() {
LCD.setCursor(0,1);
LCD.print("SPD: ");
LCD.print(SPD);
LCD.setCursor(0,0);
while (IR.decode(&in)==0){}
if (in.value == 0xFFA25D) {
if (analogRead(Motor) == 0){
LCD.print("ON");
SPD = 255;
analogWrite(Motor, SPD);
delay(dt1);
}
else {
LCD.print("OFF");
SPD = 0;
analogWrite(Motor, SPD);
delay(dt1);
}
}
if (in.value == 0xFF629D) {
LCD.print("SPD+");
SPD = SPD + 51;
analogWrite(Motor, SPD);
delay(dt1);
}
if (in.value == 0xFFA857) {
LCD.print("SPD-");
SPD = SPD - 51;
analogWrite(Motor, SPD);
delay(dt1);
}
if (in.value == 0xFF22DD) {
LCD.print("COUNTERCLOCKWISE");
digitalWrite(IN1, HIGH);
digitalWrite(IN2, LOW);
delay(dt1);
}
if (in.value == 0xFFC23D) {
LCD.print("CLOCKWISE");
digitalWrite(IN1, LOW);
digitalWrite(IN2, HIGH);
delay(dt1);
}
else {
LCD.clear();
delay(dt2);
}
LCD.clear();
IR.resume();
}
did my home work, my code was a bit different but work the same. I like how there are mutiable ways of doing the same things
Great lesson- no real trouble with coding, had play around with the setup until I could do away with the interference and get consistent results.
I am a Legend! had to spent a few hours, but knew I have to get it. Thank you for the great lesson!
Glad it helped!
ooooomg the speed control drove me crazy. Checking power inputs, using the other side of the motor control chip, setting serial prints if the mSpeed and just couldn't get the fan to change speed. I then checked the Arduino Uno curious why you chose pin 5 and realized its bc it was a squiggly pin. On the nano I can't tell so I had it on pin 8 so it wasn't getting any analog readings.....lol. The noise thing was new though. I figured that one out on my own but thought maybe it was the motor using up all the power but apparently it was noise. Learned a lot with this one. Thanks!
Yes I was able to finish the homework with a few problems but with success. This was a fun project really adds what you can do within a given project using an IR remote. Looking forward to the robot project and using IR remote on it. Have a great week.
Great going teacher, you'll make half the world population electronic literate. More thinking brain, more advancement in technology.
I did the homework but had the noise issues you had and I couldn't figure out how to fix it. I was able to come closer after watching the video but it is still glitchy. I tried adding a capacitor but not sure if I added it the right way. I just put the capacitor in between the positive and negative of the motor. It seemed to help but not completely. This project was frustrating not knowing why I was having the issues. My code was very similar to yours so I felt good about doing that part right. I'm still learning, which is why I'm watching your tutorials. Thanks again.
Got it working. Had motor noise and added a 104pf from my Elegoo "Most Complete" Starter Kit. Knew I had noise because I added monitoring of IR HEX, mSpeed and myCom but watched how you corrected for it.
Thank you Paul for another fun lesson. I was able to do this one on my own and came back and watched your video. I too had interface problems, but was able to correct. Looking forward to the next one.
It worked... for all except rewind. Thank you!
This lesson had me pulling my hair out. I rewired the board several times, went over the code again and again. But in the end, guess what I did? When I removed the 5v from the breadboard to the Arduino, I also removed the ground. I never thought that it would matter, but once I put that small wire in...BOOM! The motor came alive, lol. This stuff drives me slowly insane, but I love it!!! Maybe this will help someone else with this lesson.
Yes, I did my homework and it was interesting to see you go through nearly the same exact troubleshooting issues as I did. I tried putting capacitors across everything but I just could not get it to work reliably with shared power. I had to have separate supplies for the nano and the motor circuit. Otherwise it just wouldn't work right. Good project. I learned a lot.
I had the same issue. I needed it to be plugged into both power supplies.
Dear prof I really don't know what the future deserves for me, but now I know that I can do anything, just a little bit of hard work.........
Thank you prof
Hi Paul, I wrote my code, checked it remade the motor circuit with an Arduino, tested the power button and yes BOOM! it turned on, then I noticed my IR detector light was flashing slightly and I thought oops I've wired something wrong. I spent the next hour checking and rechecking code and circuit, I even swapped out the Nano (the second one need the old boot loader so yet another pfaf)
I too noticed that the remote worked fine when the motor was disconnected and thought maybe I could stick a capacitor across the 5V line to snub it out, couldn't find anything except a 10uF but that didn't work.I even moved the sensor away from the motor on longer wires but they obviously weren't long enough. In the end I thought Id just watch the video and see what I had done wrong, Soooo glad you got the same response. mine is now working fine. Sometimes I hate electronics, but only for about 5 minutes.
This kind of fault also ensures that the pupil realises it doesn't always work the way you expected it to, even though it works fine on paper.
Great video.
I had partial success with the project because of bad coding. Finally gave up on debhgging and watched your lesson haha BTW very good tips as always. Thanks
Also had problem with electrical noise. But after I watched video to that part, I was able to write code by myself (little different, but works). I also tried to add capacitor 0,1uF to the circuit, it also solved the problem.
.... Couldn't sleep so I jumped on. After 40 min I uploaded to the wrong code saved file, then kept working on the correct file. Realized what I did wrong and tried to recover, then just copied the code from TTB..... Yeah, I'll be back after work and restart this lesson. It's coming easy but I'm out of time this morning. Great Video.
Have you considered calling in sick to work on this most excellent project. Just a thought.
Of the options you gave. I could not answer the "I Tried but....". All I can say is: "I tried.... and blew-out my IR Receiver".
And no, didn't blow the Nano....I verified. Pheewwwww.....
I have another IR Receiver on order in the "ELEGOO Upgraded 37 in 1 Sensor Modules Kit". Once I receive that, (tomorrow), I will verify my connections & try again. I'm not a quitter!
After finding out the supply problem (I hooked all to the Uno), I introduced the common grounding problem and got all weird values from the IR remote. Changing batteries and using another remote didn't help ... You helped me though ... finally it came to work properly and feel like a happy "old" kid ...
I got it to work using a function that translated codes using switch case. I failed at first because the wait for printing code in the original code from the last assignment. Once I figured that out I was able to incorporate reverse and using the on off. Both of those required a variable to "remember" the previous state. Lots of fun here.
Great project! Thank you Mr. McWhorter
Glad you like it!
I too have done the homework and enjoyed it. Lots of ways to adapt this for "real world" projects, which I assume is everyone's goal. Okay, until there are more arduino tutorials, I'm off to your robot tutorials.
Once I finally got the library figured out in the last lesson, this one was easy.
I still had the code saved from the one with the motor and joystick so I was able to copy some pieces from it to remind me what I was doing on this one.
Excellent!
love your lessons sir, i would love to learn about the rc transmitter aswell, hope u cover that soon aswell thx.
I have done the homework by myself. I also have experienced the same noise problem. I solved it by moving the IR receiver away from the motor.
Thanks Paul ,wonderful tutorials!!!
Glad you like them!
This was fun as hell the task was so good with the buttons 0 to 9 it was fun to do BOOOM
BOOM!
It was pretty easy homework :D But I must say it is because your excellent teaching !! Thank you very much :D
What a great homework project, thanks again Paul!!
Fantastic project, enjoyed it
asad
Watched your video just to see what you have done to get the remote to work because of noise.I tried to extend the wires and so far that is working very well, now back to project and clean up some code.:P
Successful, thanks for the tutorials !
I've done the homework and it was successful.
Thanks Sir.
Wonderful lesson, Paul. I used the other side of the L293D ( pins 9-16) and had to connect pin 8 to power the motor and pin 16 to power the IC. Odd considering the IC power pin wasn't required here when working with pins 1 - 8. I also ran into the noise issue and will definitely try the capacitor solution you mentioned, thanks!
Easy Homework. Great Lesson
Glad it was helpful!
Just finished updating the code to include the numeric input - fully functional. BOOM!
At first I used a smaller 103 ceramic cap and it wasn’t enough to filter my motors noise so I switched to a 104 ceramic cap and it worked!
After you twisted the motor wires, I did the same with mine and was able to remove the capacitor. I did not think about twisting the wires despite my network experience. LOL.
Good lesson Paul!
We wrote some nice code, made everything work but got stuck on the motor disturbing the remote control. This we didn't solve. In retrospective we were on it though. We separated the power supply from the Arduino but did'nt think about twisting the power-cords together for the motor.
I forgot the power supply and was wondering why the IR stopped working whenever the motor was going above 210. Kept trying to troubleshoot then noticed the motor stopped pretty high at 120 which I remember it stopping at 75. That’s when I remembered power supply (Facepalm)
Thanks for going into enough detail during your lessons to be able to troubleshoot these things without having to cheat and watch ahead.
Hello Paul,I did the homework only partly. I managed to set the code for forward, backward, motor stop, full speed. Before I get down to do the variable speed, I need to tackle the problem of the IR sensor that locks up when the motor is set to high speed ( the serial monitor shows no further readings ). I am using the HW-131 power module which is connected to an external power supply of 12V input and max current of 2 amps.
Once the IR sensor freezes, the power supply to pin 8 of the L293 motor driver has to be disconnected to enable the sensor to function again( and get readings from the serial monitor).
Now to watch this video to see where I went wrong....
No IR receiver response after motor started. Didn't understand that it was noise related. But I figured out that the receiver became responsive after I moved the wires leading from the Arduino digital pins to the motor controller away from the IR receiver. So it was noise from the signal wires, not from the motor itself that was causing the problem. After that, it worked like a charm.
Connect both 5V and GND pin of the IR sensors to the Arduino would solve the "noise" problem as well.
I was able to do the homework. Ran into the same problem you did and solved it the same way with the arduino directly powering the IR receiver. You mentioned that you could use a capacitor as well. I have the larger version of the elegoo kit which came with capacitors. Which one would I use and exactly where would I place it?
Got this 1 working no problem....... BOOM!!
Done the homework. Added lcd to display motor state and speed
I overthought this assignment a little and took longer than planned, but I did it successfully.
Ok this was a tough one. I eventually figured out that pin 3~ will have a small negative voltage if you analog write anything other than 255, but only if IR.enableIRIn(); or IrReceiver.begin(IRpin); are in the code. Changing my motor speed pin from 3~ to 5~ fixed all of my problems.