The flat hammer in hangers are suppose to be hammered in with the flat side horizontal to get the maximum weight holding power. They may not hold as much as others but they will generally hold whatever you want to mount on the wall and they are very convenient to use.
snap toggles will hold plenty if you make sure the toggle is oriented vertically and you pull the zipties as tight as they can go before you snap them off. I used to use the self drilling toggles (the one you found to hold the most weight), but I had too many issues with them. The threads for the screw would strip out and the mechanism would seize up because the sides would bend a little. Snap toggles are my go-to now, they're the only kind I use for heavy things. As an added bonus they also don't fall into the wall like old school spring-loaded toggle bolts. For light loads like picture frames or for small shelves that use brackets with multiple screws to spread the load, the stab-ins are my favorite because they leave so little damage behind if you need to remove them. You'll get better holding power out of them if you use them horizontally rather than vertically. When vertical they act like a knife cutting through the drywall.
Orientation of the metal flange of the snap toggle inside the cavity makes a huge difference. For maximum vertical strength, makes sure the flange is placed vertically. The instructions (shown) actually indicate this. He placed it diagonally, thus reducing the load capacity and skewing the results negatively. These are my go-to anchors for heavy loads, when a stud can't be used.
@@kd4965 regardless of what your mounting, the actual anchor on the snap toggle, the metal part that hugs the back of the drywall and that the screw threads into, should always be oriented vertically.
4:57 I think you should've hammered the anchors wide surface horizontally so that the narrow surface of them wouldn't tear the drywall down when you pulled the object downwards.
@@ltlewis15 Lol...yup the 1st thing I noticed. This direction that thin metal housing will cut drywall like a knife. I'm in this mini house in LA built in the 40's. I couldn't hammer these into the walls I was working on because the drywall is like rock now...lol
This is a great video. Thank you for this. But @ 4:24 the anchor rated at 265# was installed so the toggle was virtually horizontal and your pull test was vertical. If you had made sure that the toggle and the pull test were along the same angles, I believe that the test would have been better.
My experience with the first type of anchor you tested (the plastic screw-in type) has been that it is best to pre-insert the screw all the way into the anchor, then removing it, before installing the anchor in the drywall. I've had many where if I didn't do this, when you insert the screw, the anchor turns in the drywall before the screw can be tightened. The other problem with them is when you try to take a tightened screw out, the anchor unscrews from the wall instead.
Your way to explain is always unique. Link in the description is Great to find, research and buy tools and different items. Normally vloggers miss link in description. Great work, keep it up. Thanks
Great video. Snap toggle is by far my most favourite, I am surprised it is so under performed, I feel it you may not have given it a fair chance. These toggles really benefit from pulling the straps as tight as possible before snapping, I can see that you’ve got an ever so slight gap there between the toggle and plasterboard. It could have made all the difference. In the Uk we also have something called Fischer duopower, they are my 2nd favourite plasterboard fixings, claims to hold 15-30 kg each
@@FixThisHouse Yeah I would have to agree I have done many TV mounting jobs using the snap toggle bolts with the 1/4" screws and they support 265lbs. I also used my own body weight (151 lbs)as a test and the drywall didn't even Crack under my weight.
@@FixThisHouse Yeah, definitely. I use these all of the time. You have to pull that toggle tight with the front plastic collar. Then you hang whatever you're hanging. You didn't pull it tight, and also never ran the bolt all the way in (first) before letting it hang out and testing it. Not a fair critique for this toggle.
I would have to agree with the other commenters. I use these when I'm hanging TVs and large mirrors (hung a 96" plasma TV on a basement wall with 24" OC studs - the mount was only 18" wide, and I could only get 2 lag bolts in a stud; these toggles have held the rest of the mount). I saw another comparison video where the creator grabbed the screw head with vise grips and pulled the anchors through the wall. These toggles took the most effort to pull through the wall (and made the biggest hole in the wall when he pulled it through, lol). Let us know if you try another comparison with these.
Came here to say this as well. The snap toggler is my go to for hanging anything of significant weight when I don't have the option of drilling into a stud.
The snap toggle didn't seem to be secured tightly to the wall sk it ahould have been drilled in a tad more and the metal one you hammered in just after should have been placed horizontaly and not vertically, the way it was placed has made it more of a blade to cut through the wall. Good video apart from that 😉
Your second one. You put it in wrong. It has two arrows to indicate top and bottom. So when the Toggle in the back flips. It is in the vertical position. And yes. Also have to have it the correct way so when the Toggle flips. The longest part of it its at the top. Now your 3rd test, the large and small brass ones. You did those wrong too. You installed those vertically. The correct way is horizontally. It is possible that the plastic heavy weight Toggle ( number 3 ) @ 265 lbs. You may have installed that one wrong too. Details matter ❗️ If you do these again. It would be interesting to see the new weight load limit. I hope this was helpful. Not trying to be mean or rude. Also, I like that you used a scale to help demonstrate. Blessings.
You installed the snap toggler wrong. You had the metal part almost perfectly horizontal on the back side which doesnt give it alot of support when pulling down. It needs to be vertical and that wohld give it 5x the surface area. Great tests though 👍🏻
I use those plastic drywall anchors a lot. One thing I learn is that I install them with a phillips screwdriver and rarely use a drill gun because you can over tighten them . At least there are some anchors I will stay away from that you tested . Thanks for for that great info. Take care.
The Snap toggle you installed is the wrong way, that's why it failed in this test. After you snap it off, install the screw tight to pull the inside bracket into the drywall. then remove the screw and install your peace.
Great comparison. For the 3rd one with disappointing results, I wonder if the outcome would have been different if the wings behind the drywall were expanded vertically vs. horizontally? With the downward force on a screw, I'd guess this would increase the weight they could support. The metal screw in anchors will be my go-to after this. Thank you!
the 265 lb. rating is for pull-out load of the anchor. the test was evaluating the shear capability, with is limited by it's strength of the gyp board. The sleeve of the self drilling toggle that performed the best helps to reinforce the hole and contributes to is better performance. For gyp board they are clearly a better option, but in harder materials like plywood or block, the snap anchor would perform better since the self drilling anchors won't bite in these materials
for snap toggles screwing the bolt firmly all the way is and important part of the anchor mechanism, if not, is like testing for failure a loosen bolt in a structure
This is a really good video. I'm always wondering which ones are best. There are so many more types than you demonstrated but nevertheless this was very useful information. Thanks!
My guy you used horizontal for the ones that should be vertical and vertical for the ones that should be horizontal. Other than that, thanks for the testing it helps me choose!
Great video! The max weight ratings are for mounted items. These are anchors not hangers, but were tested by hanging the test rig on an unsecured screw. I wonder how the results would vary, if the bar was fashioned so that it could be fully mounted to the wall? Thanks
great idea for a video, but as another commentator mentioned, you have to have the snap toggle bolt line up as close to vertical as possible. The forces that will create the failure are the downward pressure from the screw/anchor into the drywall below it AND the anchor trying to push through the drywall behind it. If the metal bar in the back is aligned exactly vertical, that will provide the maximum strength.
I have a question; my track for l bracket slot ( so bracket can be moved up and down to creat different shelve gap ) the track is 1000 mm long placing vertically , which mean I should try to place the flange behind the drywall horizontally to maximise the load bearing , is that correct ? Thanks in advance
Would these work well on tile walls (like in a bathroom for installing a shower or a grab bar) or do you need to make another video on the best anchors for tile walls?
Hey!! Thank you for taking the time to do this video, you no!! What it was so interesting, I’ve always wanted to no! What kind of pressure theses could take, it’s wonderful to no, and have a idea what they can do, so thank you 🙏
if you use the knife blade type...try them side ways...other wise weight pulls down using the knife blade and cutting thru the dry wall....i find using a washer under the insert head, helps the dry hold up better as well.
@ 4:40 those no drill anchors you tested, I think you messed up the test. Those should've obviously been hammered in Horizontally and not vertical. Essentially you just gave them an easy path to cut straight down with the sharp edge.
Why would you hammer in those no drill anchors so they are vertical? Is that what the directions say or something? Seems like it would cut through the drywall like a knife (similar to what happened).
I understand that this is a 1-year-old video at this particular point; however I just watched it. There's one significant flaw to how you tested these. For example the toggle bolts and some of the other anchors are designed so that the part that flares out is supposed to be up and down versus sideways. The result will be significantly different. Otherwise, I enjoy your videos.👍
Does the fabricator of the no drill anchors provide any instructions at all? Because I believe that they should have been hammered horizontally instead of vertically; I could be wrong.
You used some of the hardware incorrectly.. the snap toggles must have the metal brace in the verticle position when using(you had horizontal and diagonal) and the brass colored no-drill hardware is used with horizontal orientation (you had vertical) thanks for the effort but your application has your results askew
The hammer in ones would have been far better it you had rotated them by 90 degrees. All you did with their orientation was make them into knife blades to improve the fail rate.
The flat "arrowhead" anchors; if they penetrate horizontal (vs. vertical, as you did)... less of a probability to cut the board, under vertical stress?
What about testing nails. They hold pretty good too. I don’t use nails to often but in the past, I used big ones and put them on slight angles with the head a little higher.
Good test. I use the no drill hammer type usually and never had a problem, I think your test results would be better if you hammer them in horizontally which spreads the load better. Your test of the snap toggle is unfair, it should be tightened to the drywall face and loaded from a hook or similar, this comment would also be relevant for the traditional plastic plugs I think. Very impressed by the self drill spring toggle anchor performance.
Thank you!! Looking to hang some cat areas, and not all areas can be aligned with studs. One of them is a big boy and need to know how to keep his thud-jumps from tearing things out of the wall 😂
If you hang something off a Zip Toggle bolt that isn't tightened all the way flush to wall or hanging hardware - you need a nut on your side of the wall to properly pull the toggle tight
The hammer in anchors have to be oriented horizontally or they will cut through the drywall. When you install toggle bolts, there have to be completely tighter down to what they are anchoring, otherwise the screw will cut through the drywall. …note that I finished the video, all of the anchors failed prematurely because the screws weren’t tightened to the wall. Imagine holding a dumbbell close to your chest versus straight armed out in front of you. Physics
I've been binging videos on these anchors today cos I want to put up cat shelves lol, what interested me was the one that said it could hold over 200 pounds. Across different test videos I've seen it perform very different. I wonder what causes such wide variation?
The Toggle Anchor (No. 2) wasn't oriented correctly. There are arrows on the face telling you the correct orientation. Downforce is correctly distributed across the drywall if the stem is running up and down, not left to right.
Why did you put the hammer in ones in the wrong orientation! If they were perpendicular to the load i feel like they would have done a lot better. Also you should give them a score of size of hole in drywall vs weight held. That way we are optimizing for the best technology not just using more surface area. Like the ones in your recent video make huge holes.
in most of these examples = Technically the Drywall failed, not the anchors.. for the "anchor" to fail, some part of the anchor itself has to snap, break, etc. I live in a 1940s home and my drywall is a different breed of animal... I burned out a ryobi oscillating tool, bent and snapped teeth on a "drywall" knife (trying to knife out a damaged section of drywall"... snapped multiple thin drill bits
What is failing is the drywall not the anchor dude!. The fact that is in single shear without a backing to the anchor makes it worse. You are combining different types toggle and friction anchors. This would be more helpful if all were the same type.
Snap togglers were improperly installed, off angle and loose, which led to your poor results. Reading instructions for proper installation could have avoided the confusion.
This was frustrating to watch, snap toggles are the best anchors ever made but they need to be installed correctly. Think about how the snap toggle works, it works by clamping the plate hard into the drywall, the screw needs to be tightened up for this to work, you basically tested a screw and nut loosely sitting in a hole. These all should have been tested by fixing a hook to the wall rather than leaving the screw loose
Testing these anchors with their screws protruding is not a test of the anchor, it is a test of the rupture strength of the plasterboard (dry wall to you Yanks). You should use them to fix a hook to the wall to hang from so that the anchor is securely fixed to the wall. Nothing is better than a toggle bolt in my opinion.
This actually does not make sense, the problem here is on the drywall not on the anchors, the anchors still inside the wall and did not break, so the problem is the dry wall not the anchors, this does not reflect a true test of the anchors
I literally need this type of video! You’re the best!
Thank you so much! Glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
The flat hammer in hangers are suppose to be hammered in with the flat side horizontal to get the maximum weight holding power. They may not hold as much as others but they will generally hold whatever you want to mount on the wall and they are very convenient to use.
snap toggles will hold plenty if you make sure the toggle is oriented vertically and you pull the zipties as tight as they can go before you snap them off. I used to use the self drilling toggles (the one you found to hold the most weight), but I had too many issues with them. The threads for the screw would strip out and the mechanism would seize up because the sides would bend a little. Snap toggles are my go-to now, they're the only kind I use for heavy things. As an added bonus they also don't fall into the wall like old school spring-loaded toggle bolts. For light loads like picture frames or for small shelves that use brackets with multiple screws to spread the load, the stab-ins are my favorite because they leave so little damage behind if you need to remove them. You'll get better holding power out of them if you use them horizontally rather than vertically. When vertical they act like a knife cutting through the drywall.
I wondered about how installing them sideways would impact performance.
@@Greanestbean It does impact it ALOT. The instructions say to use horizontal.
Orientation of the metal flange of the snap toggle inside the cavity makes a huge difference. For maximum vertical strength, makes sure the flange is placed vertically. The instructions (shown) actually indicate this. He placed it diagonally, thus reducing the load capacity and skewing the results negatively. These are my go-to anchors for heavy loads, when a stud can't be used.
I have a question , my bracket is placed vertically so I should try to position the flange horizontally for better loading is that correct ?
@@kd4965 regardless of what your mounting, the actual anchor on the snap toggle, the metal part that hugs the back of the drywall and that the screw threads into, should always be oriented vertically.
4:57 I think you should've hammered the anchors wide surface horizontally so that the narrow surface of them wouldn't tear the drywall down when you pulled the object downwards.
Exactly what I was going to comment.
Just looking at the instructions for these and it says to use the horizontally. I think this is a crucial difference in holding power.
i was about to comment the same thing. There's a big difference if it's hammered horizontally.
I have these and use em quite often and i can say that yes putting them horizontal is better 😸
@@ltlewis15 Lol...yup the 1st thing I noticed. This direction that thin metal housing will cut drywall like a knife. I'm in this mini house in LA built in the 40's. I couldn't hammer these into the walls I was working on because the drywall is like rock now...lol
At 05:00 I would have nailed the No-Drill anchors 90° from what you did so that the wings don't cut through the drywall.
The hammer in plugs are to go in with wings vertical to spread the load!
For most application the pull out force is more important.
This is a great video. Thank you for this. But @ 4:24 the anchor rated at 265# was installed so the toggle was virtually horizontal and your pull test was vertical. If you had made sure that the toggle and the pull test were along the same angles, I believe that the test would have been better.
My experience with the first type of anchor you tested (the plastic screw-in type) has been that it is best to pre-insert the screw all the way into the anchor, then removing it, before installing the anchor in the drywall. I've had many where if I didn't do this, when you insert the screw, the anchor turns in the drywall before the screw can be tightened. The other problem with them is when you try to take a tightened screw out, the anchor unscrews from the wall instead.
This is solid advice
Your way to explain is always unique. Link in the description is Great to find, research and buy tools and different items. Normally vloggers miss link in description.
Great work, keep it up. Thanks
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
What a cool video! Thanks for teaching me how to do this. I am single and don’t have anyone other than me doing repairs, etc. Your awesome!!
Great video. Snap toggle is by far my most favourite, I am surprised it is so under performed, I feel it you may not have given it a fair chance. These toggles really benefit from pulling the straps as tight as possible before snapping, I can see that you’ve got an ever so slight gap there between the toggle and plasterboard. It could have made all the difference. In the Uk we also have something called Fischer duopower, they are my 2nd favourite plasterboard fixings, claims to hold 15-30 kg each
I may have to give the snap toggle another try on part 2. Thank you for the recommendation I will
Have to try the duo power! Thank you 🙏🏽!
@@FixThisHouse Yeah I would have to agree I have done many TV mounting jobs using the snap toggle bolts with the 1/4" screws and they support 265lbs. I also used my own body weight (151 lbs)as a test and the drywall didn't even Crack under my weight.
@@FixThisHouse Yeah, definitely. I use these all of the time. You have to pull that toggle tight with the front plastic collar. Then you hang whatever you're hanging. You didn't pull it tight, and also never ran the bolt all the way in (first) before letting it hang out and testing it. Not a fair critique for this toggle.
I would have to agree with the other commenters. I use these when I'm hanging TVs and large mirrors (hung a 96" plasma TV on a basement wall with 24" OC studs - the mount was only 18" wide, and I could only get 2 lag bolts in a stud; these toggles have held the rest of the mount).
I saw another comparison video where the creator grabbed the screw head with vise grips and pulled the anchors through the wall. These toggles took the most effort to pull through the wall (and made the biggest hole in the wall when he pulled it through, lol).
Let us know if you try another comparison with these.
Came here to say this as well. The snap toggler is my go to for hanging anything of significant weight when I don't have the option of drilling into a stud.
I just used the ‘no drill’ anchors at 4:40. Love these! Very heavy duty.
You need to bury the screw for the small anchors at the end so they grab the wall, then back it out a bit to give it a lip
The snap toggle didn't seem to be secured tightly to the wall sk it ahould have been drilled in a tad more and the metal one you hammered in just after should have been placed horizontaly and not vertically, the way it was placed has made it more of a blade to cut through the wall. Good video apart from that 😉
Your second one.
You put it in wrong. It has two arrows to indicate top and bottom. So when the Toggle in the back flips. It is in the vertical position. And yes. Also have to have it the correct way so when the Toggle flips. The longest part of it its at the top.
Now your 3rd test, the large and small brass ones. You did those wrong too. You installed those vertically. The correct way is horizontally.
It is possible that the plastic heavy weight Toggle ( number 3 ) @ 265 lbs. You may have installed that one wrong too.
Details matter ❗️
If you do these again. It would be interesting to see the new weight load limit.
I hope this was helpful. Not trying to be mean or rude.
Also, I like that you used a scale to help demonstrate.
Blessings.
Thanks. There aren't any other videos on youtube about fasteners into sheetrock, so this one is such a life saver!
You installed the snap toggler wrong.
You had the metal part almost perfectly horizontal on the back side which doesnt give it alot of support when pulling down.
It needs to be vertical and that wohld give it 5x the surface area.
Great tests though 👍🏻
I use those plastic drywall anchors a lot. One thing I learn is that I install them with a phillips screwdriver and rarely use a drill gun because you can over tighten them . At least there are some anchors I will stay away from that you tested . Thanks for for that great info. Take care.
The snap toggle rating is for TENSILE loads. You can't compare with a SHEAR load test. Thanks for the testing.
Application is key. Downward strength? Pull away strength? Using one or multiple? It all depends on the application needed. Thanks for sharing!
I've never seen that hammer in type, looks handy. I wonder if it would have done better if you oriented it horizontal rather than vertical?
This he installed it wrong.
The Snap toggle you installed is the wrong way, that's why it failed in this test.
After you snap it off, install the screw tight to pull the inside bracket into the drywall.
then remove the screw and install your peace.
I love that you made chapters
You are most welcome! 🙏🏽😊
4:39 No Drill anchors should be turn 90 degrees and retested. They should do better so the anchor doesnt cut the drywall like a knife.
These tests are fine for vertical walls. How about ceilings where there is a pulling load?
I am interested to know too.
You'd better fasten to wood in the ceiling.
Thanks. Note: the blade one's that you hammer in have to go horizontal. That way the blade won't cut down. Try installing it horizontally.
8:03 The TE37s tho.
Great comparison. For the 3rd one with disappointing results, I wonder if the outcome would have been different if the wings behind the drywall were expanded vertically vs. horizontally? With the downward force on a screw, I'd guess this would increase the weight they could support. The metal screw in anchors will be my go-to after this. Thank you!
the 265 lb. rating is for pull-out load of the anchor. the test was evaluating the shear capability, with is limited by it's strength of the gyp board. The sleeve of the self drilling toggle that performed the best helps to reinforce the hole and contributes to is better performance. For gyp board they are clearly a better option, but in harder materials like plywood or block, the snap anchor would perform better since the self drilling anchors won't bite in these materials
for snap toggles screwing the bolt firmly all the way is and important part of the anchor mechanism, if not, is like testing for failure a loosen bolt in a structure
This is a really good video. I'm always wondering which ones are best. There are so many more types than you demonstrated but nevertheless this was very useful information. Thanks!
Thank you so much for your feedback! Yes this are just some for sure. This is part 1. Please stay tuned for part 2 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
My guy you used horizontal for the ones that should be vertical and vertical for the ones that should be horizontal. Other than that, thanks for the testing it helps me choose!
Great video! The max weight ratings are for mounted items. These are anchors not hangers, but were tested by hanging the test rig on an unsecured screw. I wonder how the results would vary, if the bar was fashioned so that it could be fully mounted to the wall? Thanks
Thanks! surprised how well those little hammers ones performed!
great idea for a video, but as another commentator mentioned, you have to have the snap toggle bolt line up as close to vertical as possible. The forces that will create the failure are the downward pressure from the screw/anchor into the drywall below it AND the anchor trying to push through the drywall behind it. If the metal bar in the back is aligned exactly vertical, that will provide the maximum strength.
I have a question; my track for l bracket slot ( so bracket can be moved up and down to creat different shelve gap ) the track is 1000 mm long placing vertically , which mean I should try to place the flange behind the drywall horizontally to maximise the load bearing , is that correct ? Thanks in advance
Would these work well on tile walls (like in a bathroom for installing a shower or a grab bar) or do you need to make another video on the best anchors for tile walls?
Hey!! Thank you for taking the time to do this video, you no!! What it was so interesting, I’ve always wanted to no! What kind of pressure theses could take, it’s wonderful to no, and have a idea what they can do, so thank you 🙏
if you use the knife blade type...try them side ways...other wise weight pulls down using the knife blade and cutting thru the dry wall....i find using a washer under
the insert head, helps the dry hold up better as well.
What about butterfly style anchors? In my experience they are the best option.
Thank you, this is part 1 please stay tuned for part 2. 👍🏽😊
You should turn #4 and 5 - 90 degrees to get a much better result!
Your videos are very well put together! Pinoy kaba? Haha I lived in the Philippines for a while, I think I’m picking up on an accent!
Yes Po! Marameng Salamat Po!
@ 4:40 those no drill anchors you tested, I think you messed up the test. Those should've obviously been hammered in Horizontally and not vertical. Essentially you just gave them an easy path to cut straight down with the sharp edge.
Hey, if you use 2 50 lbs rated screws, does that mean it'll hold up 100 lbs?
you did not have the toggle orientated the right way with the Toggler, you had it horizontal it should be straight up
Why would you hammer in those no drill anchors so they are vertical? Is that what the directions say or something? Seems like it would cut through the drywall like a knife (similar to what happened).
correct me if im wrong is the drywall the item that is failing and not the hardware?
Downward pressure is different than outward pressure such as a picture vs a towel bar. A towel bar requires more outward pressure than a picture.
Checking out the very good videos. I'm learning
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
I understand that this is a 1-year-old video at this particular point; however I just watched it. There's one significant flaw to how you tested these. For example the toggle bolts and some of the other anchors are designed so that the part that flares out is supposed to be up and down versus sideways. The result will be significantly different. Otherwise, I enjoy your videos.👍
Does the fabricator of the no drill anchors provide any instructions at all? Because I believe that they should have been hammered horizontally instead of vertically; I could be wrong.
@ 5:50 Which bizarro universe measures in fifths of an inch?
Great comparison !! Helped make my decision !!!! TY
You used some of the hardware incorrectly.. the snap toggles must have the metal brace in the verticle position when using(you had horizontal and diagonal) and the brass colored no-drill hardware is used with horizontal orientation (you had vertical) thanks for the effort but your application has your results askew
Thanks for the feedback! 👍🏽😊
Which one would u reccomed to hang a 70" TV?
Thanks very Helpful I appreciate your videos
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
The hammer in ones would have been far better it you had rotated them by 90 degrees. All you did with their orientation was make them into knife blades to improve the fail rate.
The flat "arrowhead" anchors; if they penetrate horizontal (vs. vertical, as you did)... less of a probability to cut the board, under vertical stress?
I needed this video thk you !
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Good info - thanks for the research!
I didn't think to factor in that all the tests are for one anchor. I have a mirror that requires two lol
Install the snap toggle correctly. It will pretty much hold the weight of a person in metal studs
What about testing nails. They hold pretty good too. I don’t use nails to often but in the past, I used big ones and put them on slight angles with the head a little higher.
Have you tested the Geefix drywall anchor
Great presentation, thanks!
Good test. I use the no drill hammer type usually and never had a problem, I think your test results would be better if you hammer them in horizontally which spreads the load better. Your test of the snap toggle is unfair, it should be tightened to the drywall face and loaded from a hook or similar, this comment would also be relevant for the traditional plastic plugs I think. Very impressed by the self drill spring toggle anchor performance.
Just curious, did you ever run a baseline on just a bare screw?
Very good video, thanks.
Thank you for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Thank you!! Looking to hang some cat areas, and not all areas can be aligned with studs. One of them is a big boy and need to know how to keep his thud-jumps from tearing things out of the wall 😂
If you hang something off a Zip Toggle bolt that isn't tightened all the way flush to wall or hanging hardware - you need a nut on your side of the wall to properly pull the toggle tight
Nice video tho. Cool to see what's happening on the other side of the wall
The hammer in anchors have to be oriented horizontally or they will cut through the drywall.
When you install toggle bolts, there have to be completely tighter down to what they are anchoring, otherwise the screw will cut through the drywall.
…note that I finished the video, all of the anchors failed prematurely because the screws weren’t tightened to the wall. Imagine holding a dumbbell close to your chest versus straight armed out in front of you. Physics
I've been binging videos on these anchors today cos I want to put up cat shelves lol, what interested me was the one that said it could hold over 200 pounds. Across different test videos I've seen it perform very different. I wonder what causes such wide variation?
Very good 👍 contents.. nice ideas shared
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Most of these toggles have to screwed down tight to hold. You can't beck the screw out to hang the scale on.
I think to be fair first test to the rated spec then go see at what the failure may be !
Thank you for the feedback! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
The Toggle Anchor (No. 2) wasn't oriented correctly. There are arrows on the face telling you the correct orientation. Downforce is correctly distributed across the drywall if the stem is running up and down, not left to right.
You shouldve hammered the hammer-ins horizontally instead of vertically. Otherwise good video. Thx
No molly fastener? Seems like that would have been a good contender.
Why did you put the hammer in ones in the wrong orientation! If they were perpendicular to the load i feel like they would have done a lot better. Also you should give them a score of size of hole in drywall vs weight held. That way we are optimizing for the best technology not just using more surface area. Like the ones in your recent video make huge holes.
The zip toggle needs a front plate to create a sandwich. It wasn't installed correctly to test the weight. Retest that with a stand-out mount.
You didn't show us how to snap the snap toggle one ??
in most of these examples = Technically the Drywall failed, not the anchors.. for the "anchor" to fail, some part of the anchor itself has to snap, break, etc. I live in a 1940s home and my drywall is a different breed of animal... I burned out a ryobi oscillating tool, bent and snapped teeth on a "drywall" knife (trying to knife out a damaged section of drywall"... snapped multiple thin drill bits
Outstanding
Nice good knowledge
Thank you 🙏🏽!
You cant just put a wall plug in and drive the screw half way in... Gotta let the plug expand propperly before start the test.
What is failing is the drywall not the anchor dude!. The fact that is in single shear without a backing to the anchor makes it worse. You are combining different types toggle and friction anchors. This would be more helpful if all were the same type.
Stay tuned for more test 👍🏽
Snap togglers were improperly installed, off angle and loose, which led to your poor results. Reading instructions for proper installation could have avoided the confusion.
I appreciate the effort but many tests were not installed correctly and didn't give a proper chance for how the hardware was conceived.
No worries thank for the feedback! 🙏🏽
This was frustrating to watch, snap toggles are the best anchors ever made but they need to be installed correctly.
Think about how the snap toggle works, it works by clamping the plate hard into the drywall, the screw needs to be tightened up for this to work, you basically tested a screw and nut loosely sitting in a hole.
These all should have been tested by fixing a hook to the wall rather than leaving the screw loose
Thats not the anchor failing thats the dryall failing the anchors are still good
Testing these anchors with their screws protruding is not a test of the anchor, it is a test of the rupture strength of the plasterboard (dry wall to you Yanks). You should use them to fix a hook to the wall to hang from so that the anchor is securely fixed to the wall. Nothing is better than a toggle bolt in my opinion.
You did the one with hammar wrong. You should hammar it horizantally
The third one you did failed because it was done wrong. If it was firmly fastened to the wall it wouldn't have moved
You installed the best ones incorrectly as well as the hammer in ones… wrong orientation of the rear supports
This actually does not make sense, the problem here is on the drywall not on the anchors, the anchors still inside the wall and did not break, so the problem is the dry wall not the anchors, this does not reflect a true test of the anchors
Los anclajes fallan por cizalle de la placa de yeso
You should have put the flat ones horizontally... come on!
Не правильно устанавливаете крепёж в гипсокартон!!!
Его нужно ставить лепестками вертикально и придерживать!
Those ribbed plastic anchors don't butterfly well 😒
You didn't do the plastic wall anchors correctly. Screw them in all the way so they open up, then back the screw out a little bit.
The toggle bolts weren’t installed correctly… video is misleading.
You're testing the strength of the drywall...not the anchors 😂