This brings back memories - you must do this exactly as he has shown - I probably couldn't do this now ! I would love to go on a spin on a set of tubs - so my advise bring it to a pro for the proper job ! Its great to see the process well demonstrated in this video presentation ! Thanks !
To answer the question of whether tubulars roll faster or slower than clinchers, one should let the data speak for itself. The data (see biketechreview) shows that a properly glued tubular rolls as well or slightly better than an equivalent clincher. The guy above demonstrates how to properly glue a tubular... And for those who ask why bother? Tubular rims weigh significantly less than clincher rims and tubular tires weigh less than clinchers with tubes - and some feel they ride better.
I have some Vittoria Pista Speed tires for my track races, never got the experience them on the road in a non grueling condition. I bet it is heavenly.
great and very well done Bill from Zipp; this is the traditional and best way to mount a tubular. a few thin layers dried well and done over a week or so. most serious athletes will ride on tubulars and have more than one set of wheels, so take your time like Bill does and don't rush it; well worth the wait and looking forward to a little coat each evening over the 5 days or so. peace from San Diego.
This is a great video! I never thought I would ever go through all this for tubulars. Once I got my 303's I went through the process and love my wheels. My Cervelo S3 is so freaking light and super comfortable with the tubulars.
So this seems to be a decent description of the classical technique. You mention to look properly if the tire is centered and does not have any vertical bumps after mounting it. The key issues are how to avoid this in the mounting process and what to do if a bump occurs? Everybody says "take care there is no bump (e.g. at the valve)" but nobody tells you how to eliminate it once you have this problem.
@daavq A key is to have the new tire prestretched and i use either Conti glue or 3M fasttack, I bought a set of tubular alloy wheels on ebay for stretching purposes only for nearly nothing, now i have 2 tires prestretched and ready to go, also a stand like he has works wonders so now if/when i get a flat simply remove the old tire and most likely the old glue and reapply ONE coat of Conti to the wheel and tire, then 2nd to wheel only, 3M is even faster i use Rolf TDF 38 just as light as a 303
Right so now I've gone through 6 tubes of glue and waited 6 months can someone tell me when I can put the tyre on?!? Shit... Seasons over... Maybe next year..!!
+Kristian Malcolm Haha! He really overdoes it. One layer to dry for 24 is ok, then one more layer, on with the tub, when wet, center it, pump it up to 150 psi. Three hours and it´s totally ok.
24 years of tubulars on my bikes and I agree. I would also add I like to find a big downhill on the first ride and drag the brakes on it to heat the rims and set the tires. Not sure if it's really doing anything but I've heard heat will soften the glue so there may be some sense to it.
I used to slap the rim with Tubasti glue and drove an un stretched tire over the wet glue, then inflate to full pressure, ride until drying. Then, remove the excess glue with solvent at home when finishing my ride! I can see why my tires never came lose as the other cyclist did...
I'm sure countess thousands of people watched thia video and it dissuaded them to ever consider tubulars again but the much easier method is tubular tape which is maybe as easy as standard clinchers with inner tubes. Easier than tubeless.
This is ridiculous. I raced road bikes in the 80s and everybody used tubular tires and nobody went to this extreme. Just a single spread of glue on the rim using your finger was all that was needed.
not too bad actually. once a rim has already been prepped from new, it will always have that part completed and ready to use. So just carry a spare tubular which already has a little dried glue on it and it will decently stick to the rim when you swap it roadside. then add some fresh glue when you get home. Put sealant inside the tube to prevent getting a flat in the first place.
I use Conti carbon glue, one coat on tire and rim then wait 12 hrs, then 2nd coat on tire and mount immediately and that's it and that glue STICKS-- some people use that 'fasttack'
For a while it seemed like I was changing/patching tubes every single day. My tires were worn out and thin so every little thing went through. I'm running Hutchinson Fusion 3 tubeless now with sealant. So far I've gone 200 miles without flats.
Alternatively you could use TUFO gluing adhesive tape and carry out the whole job in 10mins! Do not let this video put you off buying tubeless (there are other reasons mind you).
Definitely agree with some other comments here , this modern method is sooooo overdone. One layer of glue on the rim let it dry for an hour , second layer of glue , let it dry , one layer of glue on the tire , apply while tacky and inflate. Let it sit over night and you’re good to go , this is redundant.
For Pista control tubular, part is smooth and part is grooved. For track racing, is grooved side mounted on chainring side? I have not been able to get a clear answer.
Is it the same procedure if I use Continental glue ? A Continental video shows only 1 coat on the rim and 2 coats on the tire. The Vittoria mastic look easier to apply. The Continental glue dries too quickly and make little lumps. Thanks !
Nope, you strap an old tubular under your seat. Has a little old glue on it but its easy to unfold. Strip the punctured tire off which usually leaves a suficiant layer of glue on the rim. Throw the spare on, inflate, ride home. No chance of pinching the tube installing like clinchers, just dont go MotoGP around corners and your fine. Toughest part is starting the removal but I find it way faster and easier than a clincher change.
So, if I am in a ultra endurance race where cyclists routinely spend 16 or more hours in the saddle per day, clocking anyhwere from 300-500km per day, I will be anywhere from 600-1000km behind if I get a flat while waiting for the glue to dry. So just how much faster can I expect to ride with tubulars than with tubeless? Asking for a friend. Edit: Oh Jeez! He just said I have to wait 2 more days for the tires to sit and the glue to dry properly. Well that means 1200-2000km behind. That means homeboy in the lead rode almost 1/3 of the way across North America while I sat twiddling my thumbs in Nebraska.
@@Elytro442 I bought Mavic CXR 60C (clinchers). I might be able to use true GP 5000 TL (tubeless) but I was able to fit Continental GP 5000 TLR's on them even though there was a leak either in the valve or maybe the rim tape needed replacing.
This modern method is way too time consuming, back in the day (80’s) we used the orange/brown Velox glue .. one coat .. let it sit for about 10 mins and get tacky .. mount tire .. adjust to center .. inflate. I’d usually put new tires on at night before bed and they were ready to rock the next morning, never had issues in 10 years doing this way.
After fixing the tubular tyre on the rim, the excess base tape is exposing almost uniformly along the rim edges. However, the rubber tread pattern is not running really straight (slight left and right movement) when it rolls. I have tried to re-adjust the tyre while it is still freshly mounted but it is still the same. The rim was just trued too. Any idea this tread pattern not rolling perfectly straight is normal?
late reply but for posterity: handmade tubulars sometimes aren't always aligned perfectly between the base tape and tread pattern. Technically it's safer to have the tub mounted with the base tape perfectly centered, so that you have the most interfaced surface area with the base tape rather than sidewall, but because the tread pattern won't be aligned you might have tracking issues when it rolls like you've found here. Many people believe mounting based on the tread pattern being straight is always best regardless
Jesus what a hassle I find it hard to believe we've got to the moon when watch this video I was going to buy a set of new tubular wheels but now I'm not 😎
that's ridiculous. so basically with these type of tires, you gotta sit down and start gluing your new tires to your wheels for about a week waiting for it to dry and just sitting and doing nothing just because of a puncture. that's stupid! i'd never use these kinds of uncomfortable wheels unless i have a whole team bus and car behind me just waiting to throw brand new wheels at me if any of my annoying tubular's puncture. well i guess that's how the pros handle their wheels, (just trash the wheel and get a new one with another tire! how convenient!)
Jo, you´ve no idea what you´re talking about...I ride tubulars all the time and its not a drama. Yes, putting them on the first time takes a little time and patience to do it properly, but the ride is worthwhile. I simply load them with a sealant and then if I do get a flat on a ride if that doesn't work I carry a pre-glued rolled up tub neatly stored under the saddle. Then its quicker than changing a high pressure. I did this after flating after the Arenberg in the Paris Roubaix challenge.
This is completely false except for stretching the tire which should be done in the off season.The glue he is using requires only a thin coat on the rim only.Wait 6 hours and you won't be able to peel it off without great thumb force.One of the advantages of tubulars is when you are on a 150k ride and you get a flat.Simply whip on a spare tubular(if you can unpeel the old one) and you are good to go.After a few miles the spare tubular will be stuck on the rim surprisingly well.
You can not "pre-stretch" anything. The use of "pre" would indicate that you stretched it before you stretched it. You are simply stretching the tire, no need for the prefix "pre".
When you start throwing around stuff like "rolls ten times faster" you lose a lot of credibility. My understanding is that the biggest benefit is that tubular systems (wheels and tires) are slightly lighter than most clinchers. However, there are some clincher/tire combos that come very close. I hold my opinion that it's way too much work...especially since I flat about 3x per week.
totally ridiculous to be spending 3 days getting the Tub mounted. I can see why people carry their TT bikes to the start line and then brush the tyres of clear any stones: a puncture would be such a waste of time. I guess there is an equally long and labour intensive process for getting the tubular tyre off and the wheel cleaned up ahead of the 3 day re-mount process. Tub is then dead and a £75 replacement needed, which is basically a 330tpi tread the same as new clinchers. A Conti GP4000S II clincher with Latex tube running at 8bar would be just as fast/same weight as a Conti GP4000S II tubular. In a couple of years when disc brakes take over on pro-level road bikes, it will all be tubeless clinchers like in the MTB world anyway! #clinchersrule
I have a bike with tubular tires. Supposedly they have a certain advantage. LET ME TELL YOU, DON'T EVER GET TUBULAR TIRES. THEY ARE A NIGHTMARE WHEN YOU GET A FLAT. TUBULAR TIRES MAY BE GOOD FOR A PRO RACER, BUT THAT'S ALL. DON'T BE A FOOL, GET CLINCHERS.
Oh, these new age American bikies, when will they ever learn................? Let's simplify it the old Dutch/Belgian road and track way. And before we do, you have no idea how badly you missed out on tragically no longer made nonpareil Clement Red, but I digress............ First, assuming the new rim has a good two layers of dried glue - or, the used rim is ready to mount a new tire.......... Begin always by DRY TEST mounting the tire (with about 4 - 5 psi inflated) and do NOT stretch ever. You WANT the tire to go on very, very tight! Mount the tire and check for integrity, continuity - alignment. If the tire has no irregularities, it's good to go. If there are irregularities, you can return it. Remember, a glued tire can NOT be returned.So, always dry test mount and make sure the tire is worthy. Second, ready to mount. Alright. Glue the new rim with a fresh layer of glue. If it's brand new do that and with today's *&^%#@! glue which is crap, you need to lay down nearly a tube per rim. You don't need a brush, just precisely squeeze and spread with the tube nozzle. If the rim is used, first prep the base by taking a CLOTH (never paper) rag - towel and wetting it with lacquer thinner in one area of the towel and be certain to do all of this in open air, never inside. Fully wet the dried/crusty glue with the lacquer thinner and let it soften the base and air dry for a few minutes THEN apply a new layer of glue as above. Third, take the tire (again, inflated to 4-5 psi) and with the cloth rag - towel wet with lacquer thinner, wet/moisten the base tape over its entire length. This opens up the base pores on the tape allowing the glue to better penetrate. You do NOT need to place glue on the tire, just moisten the base tape immediately before mounting to the It will evaporate quickly just glued rim. When done properly, the glue will adhere equally to both the rim and tire. Now, mount the tire and remember to mount it with 4 - 5 psi, never uninflated. Align it initially. Inflate to about 20psi and fully align it. You should experience a bit of glue squeezing out from the sides. This is normal and good. Simply wet the towel again with lacquer thinner and clean up any excess glue. The 20psi is all you need to lightly seat the tire, squeeze out any excess but still allow for equal distribution of glue between tire and rim. Let this rest for about twenty minutes. After twenty minutes inflate to 70 psi and if a bit more clean up is needed, do so. Let rest for twenty-four hours, inflate to needed pressure then ride. Whether newbie or experienced rider.............., this is a lot more effective and easy than you might imagine and when done right, quick, neat and rock solid. NOTHING remotely approaches tubulars, period.
WOW. The last step actually was the easiest part. Juuuuuuust take it to the shop. No one wonder I'm sticking with clincher. Not unless your professionally racing and have a crew assisting you with this, tubular is wayyyyy unpractical of everyday rider. Fuck tubular.
fuck that shit man..too much work...i just use regular wheelset and regular tire.too much work fuck it..it that fuckin thing if you going to change the tire its pain in the butt to take it out
Oh this is sad. Now there's even fairly large American businesses showing they don't know the English language. It's gluing not glueing Zippspeed. I'm the one that notified you guys that you have bootleggers selling knockoff Zipp handlebars on ebay. Doubt you were able to followup with that. You completely ignored my correspondence to you, other than the first message.
WTF! What if am having trouble on my tire while on a tour ride? should I wait for 24 hours to dry that glue? Surely my wife will kill me if I can't home on that day.
Wrong, wrong, wrong. Glue goes on the rim, never on the tire. Ditch the brush (not necessary). I rode on sew ups exclusively for 15 years and up to 12,000 miles a year. I raced in hundreds of velodrome races in San Jose, and hundreds of road and criterium races in the Bay area and never rolled a tire. I know what I am talking about.
This brings back memories - you must do this exactly as he has shown - I probably couldn't do this now ! I would love to go on a spin on a set of tubs - so my advise bring it to a pro for the proper job ! Its great to see the process well demonstrated in this video presentation !
Thanks !
Could watch this guy for hours. He reminds me of bob ross, the painter
LOL!
To answer the question of whether tubulars roll faster or slower than clinchers, one should let the data speak for itself. The data (see biketechreview) shows that a properly glued tubular rolls as well or slightly better than an equivalent clincher. The guy above demonstrates how to properly glue a tubular...
And for those who ask why bother? Tubular rims weigh significantly less than clincher rims and tubular tires weigh less than clinchers with tubes - and some feel they ride better.
This is the best demo to mount tubs I have found, thanks 🙏
You guys ever ride tubulars? They're friggin' amazing. Will change how you view road riding. Riding on lightweight tubulars is pure heaven.
Millenials.....
Your right about that
I have some Vittoria Pista Speed tires for my track races, never got the experience them on the road in a non grueling condition. I bet it is heavenly.
great and very well done Bill from Zipp; this is the traditional and best way to mount a tubular. a few thin layers dried well and done over a week or so. most serious athletes will ride on tubulars and have more than one set of wheels, so take your time like Bill does and don't rush it; well worth the wait and looking forward to a little coat each evening over the 5 days or so.
peace from San Diego.
This is a great video! I never thought I would ever go through all this for tubulars. Once I got my 303's I went through the process and love my wheels. My Cervelo S3 is so freaking light and super comfortable with the tubulars.
This is really an exceptional video, he needs a raise
Cool, tubulars are so comfy, great tutorial
Could you imagine doing his instructions exactly and popping the shit in your driveway as you’re leaving for your first ride
Brilliant easy to understand and well explained video, just about to do my first tubular. Thank you 😁
So this seems to be a decent description of the classical technique. You mention to look properly if the tire is centered and does not have any vertical bumps after mounting it. The key issues are how to avoid this in the mounting process and what to do if a bump occurs? Everybody says "take care there is no bump (e.g. at the valve)" but nobody tells you how to eliminate it once you have this problem.
Thanks for this outstanding demonstration. I will need this for my wheels on my Cervelo R3 2011.
@daavq A key is to have the new tire prestretched and i use either Conti glue or 3M fasttack, I bought a set of tubular alloy wheels on ebay for stretching purposes only for nearly nothing, now i have 2 tires prestretched and ready to go, also a stand like he has works wonders so now if/when i get a flat simply remove the old tire and most likely the old glue and reapply ONE coat of Conti to the wheel and tire, then 2nd to wheel only, 3M is even faster i use Rolf TDF 38 just as light as a 303
You can also "pre stretch" by simply pumping up the tyre, up to around 100 PSI; And leave it overnight.
I like the second option at 9:50
💯✔️
"aaaaand... we're going to let that glue dry for about 24 hours..."
its like watching that guy who paints on PBS
Right so now I've gone through 6 tubes of glue and waited 6 months can someone tell me when I can put the tyre on?!? Shit... Seasons over... Maybe next year..!!
+Kristian Malcolm Haha! He really overdoes it. One layer to dry for 24 is ok, then one more layer, on with the tub, when wet, center it, pump it up to 150 psi. Three hours and it´s totally ok.
24 years of tubulars on my bikes and I agree.
I would also add I like to find a big downhill on the first ride and drag the brakes on it to heat the rims and set the tires. Not sure if it's really doing anything but I've heard heat will soften the glue so there may be some sense to it.
can't you see that he's 134 lb. climber?
The scar on my elbow is a reminder that I'm not in any rush on tubular jobs.
Tim Speciale why what caused the scar?
shit, i better win some races with these babies if it's going to be like this...
I used to slap the rim with Tubasti glue and drove an un stretched tire over the wet glue, then inflate to full pressure, ride until drying. Then, remove the excess glue with solvent at home when finishing my ride! I can see why my tires never came lose as the other cyclist did...
VERY THIN LAYER MOZERFOKERS !!!!!!!!!!
Sweet LIESTRONG yellow bracelet!
I'm sure countess thousands of people watched thia video and it dissuaded them to ever consider tubulars again but the much easier method is tubular tape which is maybe as easy as standard clinchers with inner tubes. Easier than tubeless.
This is ridiculous. I raced road bikes in the 80s and everybody used tubular tires and nobody went to this extreme. Just a single spread of glue on the rim using your finger was all that was needed.
Yeah but those tires didn't have any traction.
Your finger ? Do you have cancer now?
@thumpic Ride with a tubular zipp wheel and you will feel the difference.
it would suck to go through this process amd get a flat tire on the first day of riding
not too bad actually. once a rim has already been prepped from new, it will always have that part completed and ready to use. So just carry a spare tubular which already has a little dried glue on it and it will decently stick to the rim when you swap it roadside. then add some fresh glue when you get home. Put sealant inside the tube to prevent getting a flat in the first place.
@@planesandbikes7353How the f do
You remove the tubular?
I use Conti carbon glue, one coat on tire and rim then wait 12 hrs, then 2nd coat on tire and mount immediately and that's it and that glue STICKS-- some people use that 'fasttack'
For a while it seemed like I was changing/patching tubes every single day. My tires were worn out and thin so every little thing went through. I'm running Hutchinson Fusion 3 tubeless now with sealant. So far I've gone 200 miles without flats.
Alternatively you could use TUFO gluing adhesive tape and carry out the whole job in 10mins! Do not let this video put you off buying tubeless (there are other reasons mind you).
Tubeless is different to a tubular tire...tubeless uses a clincher tyre with a sealant.
Definitely agree with some other comments here , this modern method is sooooo overdone. One layer of glue on the rim let it dry for an hour , second layer of glue , let it dry , one layer of glue on the tire , apply while tacky and inflate. Let it sit over night and you’re good to go , this is redundant.
Fark those rims are nice..all back rim on silver spokes and hubs is gorgeous
For Pista control tubular, part is smooth and part is grooved. For track racing, is grooved side mounted on chainring side? I have not been able to get a clear answer.
Are you using Conti or Tbasti glue?
Is it the same procedure if I use Continental glue ? A Continental video shows only 1 coat on the rim and 2 coats on the tire. The Vittoria mastic look easier to apply. The Continental glue dries too quickly and make little lumps. Thanks !
So tubular only requires 2 components?Just Tube and Rims while the clincher requires 3:Tyrea,tubes,and rims?
You only use tubs for races.... also for cross tubs are the way to go because you can run low pressure and not worry about pinches
Did he say 45mins on the 3rd coat? Or 4-5 mins?
Next time try Tufo gluing tape ;-)
What do U do when u get a Flat on the road???? Im suppose to carry pre glued tires???
Nope, you strap an old tubular under your seat. Has a little old glue on it but its easy to unfold. Strip the punctured tire off which usually leaves a suficiant layer of glue on the rim. Throw the spare on, inflate, ride home. No chance of pinching the tube installing like clinchers, just dont go MotoGP around corners and your fine. Toughest part is starting the removal but I find it way faster and easier than a clincher change.
So, if I am in a ultra endurance race where cyclists routinely spend 16 or more hours in the saddle per day, clocking anyhwere from 300-500km per day, I will be anywhere from 600-1000km behind if I get a flat while waiting for the glue to dry.
So just how much faster can I expect to ride with tubulars than with tubeless?
Asking for a friend.
Edit: Oh Jeez! He just said I have to wait 2 more days for the tires to sit and the glue to dry properly. Well that means 1200-2000km behind. That means homeboy in the lead rode almost 1/3 of the way across North America while I sat twiddling my thumbs in Nebraska.
Maybe not get tubelar. They are mostly used for time trials etc
@@Elytro442 I bought Mavic CXR 60C (clinchers). I might be able to use true GP 5000 TL (tubeless) but I was able to fit Continental GP 5000 TLR's on them even though there was a leak either in the valve or maybe the rim tape needed replacing.
This modern method is way too time consuming, back in the day (80’s) we used the orange/brown Velox glue .. one coat .. let it sit for about 10 mins and get tacky .. mount tire .. adjust to center .. inflate. I’d usually put new tires on at night before bed and they were ready to rock the next morning, never had issues in 10 years doing this way.
Rudy Dhaenens has entered the chat
After fixing the tubular tyre on the rim, the excess base tape is exposing almost uniformly along the rim edges. However, the rubber tread pattern is not running really straight (slight left and right movement) when it rolls. I have tried to re-adjust the tyre while it is still freshly mounted but it is still the same. The rim was just trued too. Any idea this tread pattern not rolling perfectly straight is normal?
late reply but for posterity: handmade tubulars sometimes aren't always aligned perfectly between the base tape and tread pattern. Technically it's safer to have the tub mounted with the base tape perfectly centered, so that you have the most interfaced surface area with the base tape rather than sidewall, but because the tread pattern won't be aligned you might have tracking issues when it rolls like you've found here. Many people believe mounting based on the tread pattern being straight is always best regardless
Nice zit!
being cheap I've started using Liquid Nails. It works. I mean come on it's the 21st century.
Special bikes with left drive.
Jesus what a hassle I find it hard to believe we've got to the moon when watch this video
I was going to buy a set of new tubular wheels but now I'm not 😎
all you folks complaining haven;t watched the Enve video :)
that's ridiculous. so basically with these type of tires, you gotta sit down and start gluing your new tires to your wheels for about a week waiting for it to dry and just sitting and doing nothing just because of a puncture. that's stupid! i'd never use these kinds of uncomfortable wheels unless i have a whole team bus and car behind me just waiting to throw brand new wheels at me if any of my annoying tubular's puncture. well i guess that's how the pros handle their wheels, (just trash the wheel and get a new one with another tire! how convenient!)
Jo, you´ve no idea what you´re talking about...I ride tubulars all the time and its not a drama. Yes, putting them on the first time takes a little time and patience to do it properly, but the ride is worthwhile. I simply load them with a sealant and then if I do get a flat on a ride if that doesn't work I carry a pre-glued rolled up tub neatly stored under the saddle. Then its quicker than changing a high pressure. I did this after flating after the Arenberg in the Paris Roubaix challenge.
You have no idea. Before you make a remark, get the facts, know the truth.
This is completely false except for stretching the tire which should be done in the off season.The glue he is using requires only a thin coat on the rim only.Wait 6 hours and you won't be able to peel it off without great thumb force.One of the advantages of tubulars is when you are on a 150k ride and you get a flat.Simply whip on a spare tubular(if you can unpeel the old one) and you are good to go.After a few miles the spare tubular will be stuck on the rim surprisingly well.
I had no idea it took so long to change the tubular tire.
They ride monumentally better. No comparison.
What is the purpose of the first glue???
to sell more glue.
First Choice
Haha!
Why I went to clinchers
You can not "pre-stretch" anything.
The use of "pre" would indicate that you stretched it before you stretched it. You are simply stretching the tire, no need for the prefix "pre".
We ride them on the track.
Match the badge with the left side of the wheel, also known as the drive-side? Come on dude...
ok I don't have to finish watching the whole video. I'm a recreational rider, I think I finally found my choice, I'll stick to clincher tires...
Much much better to use with tubular tape ,a new tyre will be ready to go for just 15-30 mins
谁能告诉我，8‘17” 时说的话是什么意思啊？！
I think hes using Mastik One.
When you start throwing around stuff like "rolls ten times faster" you lose a lot of credibility. My understanding is that the biggest benefit is that tubular systems (wheels and tires) are slightly lighter than most clinchers. However, there are some clincher/tire combos that come very close. I hold my opinion that it's way too much work...especially since I flat about 3x per week.
ANd that's why I don't ride tubulars. A hell of a hassle to set up.
"may stick" glue?
i'm dubious
totally ridiculous to be spending 3 days getting the Tub mounted. I can see why people carry their TT bikes to the start line and then brush the tyres of clear any stones: a puncture would be such a waste of time. I guess there is an equally long and labour intensive process for getting the tubular tyre off and the wheel cleaned up ahead of the 3 day re-mount process. Tub is then dead and a £75 replacement needed, which is basically a 330tpi tread the same as new clinchers. A Conti GP4000S II clincher with Latex tube running at 8bar would be just as fast/same weight as a Conti GP4000S II tubular. In a couple of years when disc brakes take over on pro-level road bikes, it will all be tubeless clinchers like in the MTB world anyway! #clinchersrule
I had no idea it was so involved?
It's not.
Wow. Way too much work for way too little benefit. I'll stick with clinchers.
6:40 into this .... and I've given up on desiring tubeless tires.
Hey Zipp, you misspelled gluing. You guys hiring English teachers?
So the moral to your lesson is to plan ahead at least 5 days?
I have a bike with tubular tires. Supposedly they have a certain advantage.
LET ME TELL YOU, DON'T EVER GET TUBULAR TIRES. THEY ARE A NIGHTMARE WHEN YOU GET A FLAT.
TUBULAR TIRES MAY BE GOOD FOR A PRO RACER, BUT THAT'S ALL.
DON'T BE A FOOL, GET CLINCHERS.
a three day process to mount tires? why are tubulars even on the market. not worth the weight savings.
FIVE FREAKING DAYS TO MOUNT A TIRE TO A RIM RIDICULOUS AND WHY SO MANY LAYERS OF GLUE ?? I M PRETTY SURE THE PRO TEAMS DON T TAKE THIS LONG !!
May stick? He doesn't sound too confident.
5 days for a tyre change am i in the twilight zone...
F1 just raced the year GP in 5days :)
2-days on each tire? How about the cyclists who do not have a crew with replacement wheels to follow?
aaaaad... let the tire sit for about 2 days...
why in the world would you go to all this time and trouble?? Weeks work gone with the first flat!!! Noooo thankyou!
Oh, these new age American bikies, when will they ever learn................?
Let's simplify it the old Dutch/Belgian road and track way. And before we do, you have no idea how badly you missed out on tragically no longer made nonpareil Clement Red, but I digress............
First, assuming the new rim has a good two layers of dried glue - or, the used rim is ready to mount a new tire..........
Begin always by DRY TEST mounting the tire (with about 4 - 5 psi inflated) and do NOT stretch ever. You WANT the tire to go on very, very tight! Mount the tire and check for integrity, continuity - alignment. If the tire has no irregularities, it's good to go. If there are irregularities, you can return it. Remember, a glued tire can NOT be returned.So, always dry test mount and make sure the tire is worthy.
Second, ready to mount. Alright. Glue the new rim with a fresh layer of glue. If it's brand new do that and with today's *&^%#@! glue which is crap, you need to lay down nearly a tube per rim. You don't need a brush, just precisely squeeze and spread with the tube nozzle. If the rim is used, first prep the base by taking a CLOTH (never paper) rag - towel and wetting it with lacquer thinner in one area of the towel and be certain to do all of this in open air, never inside. Fully wet the dried/crusty glue with the lacquer thinner and let it soften the base and air dry for a few minutes THEN apply a new layer of glue as above.
Third, take the tire (again, inflated to 4-5 psi) and with the cloth rag - towel wet with lacquer thinner, wet/moisten the base tape over its entire length. This opens up the base pores on the tape allowing the glue to better penetrate. You do NOT need to place glue on the tire, just moisten the base tape immediately before mounting to the It will evaporate quickly just glued rim. When done properly, the glue will adhere equally to both the rim and tire. Now, mount the tire and remember to mount it with 4 - 5 psi, never uninflated. Align it initially. Inflate to about 20psi and fully align it. You should experience a bit of glue squeezing out from the sides. This is normal and good. Simply wet the towel again with lacquer thinner and clean up any excess glue. The 20psi is all you need to lightly seat the tire, squeeze out any excess but still allow for equal distribution of glue between tire and rim. Let this rest for about twenty minutes. After twenty minutes inflate to 70 psi and if a bit more clean up is needed, do so. Let rest for twenty-four hours, inflate to needed pressure then ride.
Whether newbie or experienced rider.............., this is a lot more effective and easy than you might imagine and when done right, quick, neat and rock solid. NOTHING remotely approaches tubulars, period.
You flat 3 times a week? LOL
remember if you guys pop the tube in the tubuluar tire you're fucked.
or ride cyclocross...
Just don't get glue on your nipples.
Hope that these aren't yours. Not exactly a 134 lb. climber.
What a complete pain in the ass. No thanks.
Fu$%K a Tubular tire Zipp if I have to do all that!!!!
WOW. The last step actually was the easiest part. Juuuuuuust take it to the shop. No one wonder I'm sticking with clincher. Not unless your professionally racing and have a crew assisting you with this, tubular is wayyyyy unpractical of everyday rider. Fuck tubular.
not smart
fuck that shit man..too much work...i just use regular wheelset and regular tire.too much work fuck it..it that fuckin thing if you going to change the tire its pain in the butt to take it out
No way!! so you need 8 days how stupid.
Oh this is sad. Now there's even fairly large American businesses showing they don't know the English language. It's gluing not glueing Zippspeed. I'm the one that notified you guys that you have bootleggers selling knockoff Zipp handlebars on ebay. Doubt you were able to followup with that. You completely ignored my correspondence to you, other than the first message.
WTF! What if am having trouble on my tire while on a tour ride? should I wait for 24 hours to dry that glue? Surely my wife will kill me if I can't home on that day.
Wrong, wrong, wrong. Glue goes on the rim, never on the tire. Ditch the brush (not necessary). I rode on sew ups exclusively for 15 years and up to 12,000 miles a year. I raced in hundreds of velodrome races in San Jose, and hundreds of road and criterium races in the Bay area and never rolled a tire. I know what I am talking about.
a three day process for new tires. why would anyone without their very own pee-on mechanic subject themselves to this misery???
Or don’t buy a tubular tyre. :)
It is absolutely ridiculous to get tubular tyre unless you're a professional.