This is a great video thank you for sharing. I was wondering if you could answering question? If my valve shafts are measuring at .3415 and they are the correct measurement. Is that the size of the knurling tool I'm looking for?
Although not a big issue, but sometimes the valve stem tip needs to be measured for flare vs the valve stem diameter in case you can't insert your valve, even with the correct guide clearance.
I have both, the Lisle (About the same as yours) and the discontinued UTP/Kwik-Way that is a rolling disk cutter. .......... What I don't like about the Lisle / your style is that during the process, it causes material to splinter out of the groves it is forcing with friction into the guide walls. .......... Where as, the UTP rolls inside the guide walls forcing a groove without material removal. .......... I'm not referring to what the reamers remove, that is necessary in completing the process. Both designs work although the UTP has more tiny parts to loose and the multiple sizes of the rolling disk often requires a mic to make sure you are using the correct one. I tend to lean more to the less material removed UTP, but if some tiny parts get lost in the future, then it is useless. What is your opinion of the UTP when both are available to be used?
Old school ways work . For an engine that won't see 6000 rpms boost nitrous and never make 500 HP in 20 years ? It prob outlast the owner . Besides you know what it costs to install guides ? Around 400 just for guides ! Cheap alternative for 20yrs of fun
I used to make a lot of money replacing valve guides that had been knurled. Usually, they come with burned and worn out valves. that was an extra the machine shop I worked for charged a bunch for. best thing is replace the seals and let it smoke on start up a bit
This is a great video thank you for sharing. I was wondering if you could answering question? If my valve shafts are measuring at .3415 and they are the correct measurement. Is that the size of the knurling tool I'm looking for?
Who or where do you buy the reams and knurls from or a brand name.
learned lots man, going to service my cylinder heads soon, now better informed. much appreciated.
Although not a big issue, but sometimes the valve stem tip needs to be measured for flare vs the valve stem diameter in case you can't insert your valve, even with the correct guide clearance.
Awesome video man
Easy to understand...thanks man
Great video, TYVM!
I have both, the Lisle (About the same as yours) and the discontinued UTP/Kwik-Way that is a rolling disk cutter. ..........
What I don't like about the Lisle / your style is that during the process, it causes material to splinter out of the groves it is forcing with friction into the guide walls. ..........
Where as, the UTP rolls inside the guide walls forcing a groove without material removal. ..........
I'm not referring to what the reamers remove, that is necessary in completing the process.
Both designs work although the UTP has more tiny parts to loose and the multiple sizes of the rolling disk often requires a mic to make sure you are using the correct one. I tend to lean more to the less material removed UTP, but if some tiny parts get lost in the future, then it is useless.
What is your opinion of the UTP when both are available to be used?
keep knurling those guides. I work in an automotive machine shop, and you will come visit me in about 10,000 miles if you knurl your guides.
Yu smokin to much crack boy, that valve guide will be good to go for at least 100k, been doin that since the 60s w/no issues
gotta do what ya gotta do, and be nice,
Be sure to blow some cleaner through the guide then blow out with air to clear any chips etc before inserting the valve .
Knulering valve guides is a waste of money! You might get 10,000 miles out of the head !🎉
Old school ways work . For an engine that won't see 6000 rpms boost nitrous and never make 500 HP in 20 years ? It prob outlast the owner . Besides you know what it costs to install guides ? Around 400 just for guides ! Cheap alternative for 20yrs of fun
I used to make a lot of money replacing valve guides that had been knurled. Usually, they come with burned and worn out valves. that was an extra the machine shop I worked for charged a bunch for. best thing is replace the seals and let it smoke on start up a bit