IFSC World Cup | Lead Finals | Seoul | Women’s | 2024
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
- IFSC World Cup Lead Finals.
6th October 2024. Seoul, Korea.
00:00 Intro
00:10 Lead Part 1
22:32 Break
22:42 Lead Part 2
49:28 Outro
49:28 Interview
50:57 Podiums
Zhilu Luo 00:10
Yetong Zhang 05:11
Cheyun Seo 10:12
Rosa Rekar 16:21
Jessica Pilz 22:42
Erin McNeice 29:14
Anastasia Sanders 35:54
Ai Mori 42:46
Commentators : Matt Groom, Mei Nakamura
Source : / sportclimbing
• Lead finals | Seoul 2024
I need to chalk up just to watch this. My hands and feet were sweating so much
LOVE when mei is in the commentator box ❤
Congratulations to all women, very strong!
Ai is the beast❤
I don't like complaining (too much) but even Jessica mentions rope drag! On a long route the weigh of the rope is alredy a burden, but athletes are more or less used to it, but setters should prevent/anticipate the rope being dragged between volumes on angle changes or having a clip every metar! Congrats to Jessica on the deserved overall too!
Esa es mi ❤Jessica 😅 me encanta su regreso y la alegria que le dio esta victoria bien merecida bravoo bravoo.
now my hands are sweaty. amazing final
i feel like a lot of them had to pull really hard on their rope to clip in at some points, quite frustrating to watch
I agree. But some also stepped on the rope, so then it's not surprising it's hard to pull
Long route with some kinks.
Yeah, unfortunately, this happens on longer routes as you have a lot of rope underneath you. Even if they climb straight up, after 15 to 20 meters, you start to feel the weight of the rope. It's a different situation if the climber is climbing pretty fast and the belayer is slow to give slack, which can cause the climber to experience what Adam Ondra once called 'Řepec,' which in English means something like getting a jolt or yank from the belayer. But this probably wasn’t the case here. They just had a lot of rope underneath them at the top of the route, which happens and is part of the sport as it’s practiced nowadays. You can mitigate this a bit by stretching the carabiners to reduce the zig-zagging of the rope, but that’s probably not the main concern on sport competetive routes.
so cool
Disappointing to see 4 athletes timing out. This is a strength/endurance variant, not a speed test.
That was great setting. Have never seen people so close to the top but running out of time.
I would say the opposite, it should be decided by moves, not time :(
@@pavelbelik6174 but it is decided by moves. Who can do the moves in time.
I would only not like it if lots of people topped it and then you had to compare times which wasn't the case here.
@@Tomatoffel I mean Jessie and Ai topped what.. 2 seconds apart?… that is not a lead separation for me
@@pavelbelik6174 Ai didn't top tho
@@Tomatoffel well Jessie neither. She couldnt clip in time.
All Im saying is that Ai reached the top hold only 2 seconds later than Jessie
Who's in second place for the season overall?
Janja
Excuse me, but can someone explain to me if it is legal in 28:40? I mean the place where Jessica's right foot has landed and she used it to reach top. I think it shouldn't be. And as I watched only Jessica used that pebble/boulder.
If the bolt wasn't covered it would be illegal. Bolt covers are fine though.
What grade would a climb like this get?
i guess 8b+
Could be around 8b+
Yeah, sport routes at word cup are usually graded between 8a and 8c.
if the north face thinks these climbers deserve a backpack and no more then I'm never buying their shit again. Like WTF?? Think of how much money these companies make and how little the climbers get for prize money when people buy their products because these climbers use them.
DJ was a bit tragic
28'30 forbiden right foot , no ?
No. Bolt covers are fine. If not covered it would be illegal using the bolt hold.