The beauty of this is that the materials used in the developing solution are non toxic. You won't have any issues with municipal or your building manager's regulations, if you rent. Great video!
@@NerdyNEET They would know what you are doing. There are municipal regulations with handling certain products. Certain chemical materials have to be disposed of in a specific way, for safety reasons, because they are toxic. Why are you responding to a comment that is 5 years old?
mossy1 apparently so :) I can see whats in the photo. while the composition does not reach the highest visual standarts ,she still had succeeded in developing it with simple ingredients. well done
It's a negative and the final image will appear mostly black. Either it's vastly underexposed, or the development wasn't as successful as the video suggests.
This is the first time I've seen this video and was shocked to see it's 8 years old. I'll be looking for more. Not only does this video expose some "trade secrets" but it was very well done. Thanks
Love the old fashioned mixed with new technology. Loved playing with chemicals when young. Once tried to make sulphur from fixating salt (also used for developing film) and HCL. Made the whole house stink of rotten eegs though and made my mother furious. But I had great fun :)
Small problem is it will gradually go black over time while exposed to light because there is no fixer. Your standard B&W development process includes a Developer, Fixer, stop bath is optional.
Unless you're really into the actual paper negative, once you digitize it to make a positive, it doesn't really much matter what happens to the original, does it?
Having worked in B&W and color darkrooms, at the very least, the chemicals will have a pleasing odor. Pinhole photography brings with it, many fundamentals of imaging. Controlling the size of the pinhole is somewhat important, and will determine some sharpness and exposures, which, even for high speed film, are long. They produce a wonderful character to the image and the depth of focus is VERY great.
Photographic paper is nearly impossible to find in Auckland...but as soon as I can source some I will try this with my kids. Thank you for a great instructional video.
Hello :-) I love the DIYness of this video and have tried it myself with decent success. I’m just wondering if anyone can recommend some further reading on this subject of developing photo paper with domestic supplies. The lady mentions that it can be done with coffee and basil but I cannot find anywhere online that outlines a ‘recipe’ for the solution so I’m currently just going through a process of trial and error. I would like to understand the science in more detail of why certain things will work in this process. Thanks!
Does that second mixture render the photo no longer sensitive to light? Like an actual fixer? Or does it simply stop the developing process like a stop bath?
Never mind, answered my own question. Per their instruction sheet the photo WILL still be light sensitive and will darken over time. So to make a permanent image a fixer solution is necessary.
I am going to be doing this with some students. I love this! I am trying to figure out the correct kind of light to use. I have b/w resin coated photo paper. Also, how long do we take the picture for? I am having them each make a camera out of something from home like a shoe box.
You've probably had answers to your questions, but I'll throw some photographic background in, just in case. Exposure: if you can approximate the diameter of the pinhole (very small) and the focal distance from the pinhole to the film plane, you can get a rough estimate of the aperture size (f#). Expect that f 250+ can be normal. Then, either guess or use a lightmeter. The RC paper isn't really important. Use a glossy paper. Safelight: the small, round 7w light in hardware stores will work. Processing: For development, the above will be ok. You will need a photographic fixer, which will remove any silver halide remaining in the print emulsion. Otherwise, exposure to light will 'oxidize' the silver and turn it blackish (like tarnish on 'real silverware').
IF SOMEONE IS STILL READING THIS: What type of paper is photographic paper? Any photographic printer paper? Or its some kind of "special" paper sold only in photography stores?
Hi Javier, this is what our team wrote in the accompanying worksheet - "The paper used in this workshop is Ilford Multigrade IV but any resin coated B/W photographic paper will work*. This is a silver halide treated photographic paper that will produce a negative image. " The worksheet itself can be accessed here - www.rigb.org/docs/retro_workshop_1__developing_film_0.pdf Hope this helps!
It's photochemical paper, like the ones made by ilford or kodak. It needs to be sensitive to light. It’s the material old film pictures would be enlarged with.
Absolutely! We'd love for you to do this activity with local groups - don't miss the instructions for making the pinhole camera itself, too: www.rigb.org/education/loreal-young-scientist-centre/activities-to-try/pinhole-cameras
I have been playing around with different exposure times and have been having mixed results - no good pictures yet and have also noticed the photo paper remains light sensitive and eventually all turns brown. Is there where a fixer is required?
The paper used in this workshop is Ilford Multigrade IV but any resin coated B/W photographic paper will work. We got ours from here - www.ilfordphoto.com/photographic-paper/resin-coated-paper
My son is trying to do this for a school project. We got a faint partial image the first go, but after that nothing seems to happen during development, the photos are remaining completely white, so visible image at all. Any idea what the problem might be?
I'm confused. Looks like the image comes out in negative? Then you have to go all digital to make it positive. Doesn't that destroy the point of it? Is there a way to get the photos to come out positive?
Certainly! just use Harman direct positive paper to get a positive (high contrast) image. To obtain an effective developing bath it is necessary to add a cup (100 ml) of ROBUSTA quality espresso coffee for every half liter of product with the suggested formula, and heat it to approximately 26/28 degrees centigrade in order to develop a visible image in approximately 5 minutes. Pay attention! Do not use Soda Bicarbonate but Soda Carbonate. Obviously everything works discreetly only if the exposure time of the paper in the pinhole camera is sufficient! Warning! Here we are not talking about the fact that the image then vanishes in a short time, if you don't immediately put it in the dark, because it is not fixed. The oldest and most ecological fixing is done by completely dissolving two full spoons of table salt in half a liter of water and leaving the paper to soak for at least 12/18 hours, shaking occasionally; then wash at least 15 minutes in running water and dry in the shade. The contrast decreases a lot, leaving a very delicate image with a vintage scent. These suggestions are at the moment only at the level of small experimental alchemy, without claims of scientific accuracy. Gabriele Coassin, Plurimedia Edu Lab
The reverse the image you can also contact print that negative on another piece of the same paper. But, you should probably make the negative darker to begin with by making a longer exposure in camera. This was a cheap way of making photos used by many tourist photographers around the world for many, many years.
This is the most frustrating thing, I’m doing this for a school project, how do you get a good picture? It’s cloudy in WA and no matter what I do, 30 seconds to 3 minutes nothing works
Thank you SO much! I was looking for a cheaper solution! BRILLIANT! Question: Do you still need to do the water bath after you fix? Alternative solution: to make a positive, you can sandwich a new piece of photo paper and the negative under glass. Expose them to light and then develop the positive.
+lanswipe Thank you. Yes, we did you a water bath after all. The images were still relatively brown (I assume as a result of the tea despite it's hue?). Also, the images seemed to continue to develop over time... perhaps my fix was not strong enough... any thoughts?
We used Ilford Multigrade IV (www.ilfordphoto.com/multigrade-iv-rc-deluxe-glossy-sheets) but any resin coated black & white photographic paper should work. There;s more detail on technique here - www.rigb.org/education/loreal-young-scientist-centre/activities-to-try/pinhole-cameras
You can definitely reuse it for several picture on the same day. We haven't tested how well it keeps but we would guess that it's unlikely to work well on the second day.
I find that this nice cheeky lady could sell ice cream in Greenland or sand in the Sahara... I spend at least a year experimenting before publishing something, and every now and then I regret it because I feel like I haven't looked into it enough... I hope I don't disappoint anyone at the Experimental Photo Festival 2024 in Barcelona this year with my photographic development workshop with garden plants...
Old vid I know. I have made a pinhole camera out of a tea caddy. Now I wanted to make my own DIY paper developer chemicals. Tested this recipe. It works! Tea caddy loaded with Ilford Muligrade IV RC De Lux paper (what a name). Developed with “your” DIY-mix. instagram.com/p/BtVtlADlMlO/ Next I will be trying coffee instead of mint tea… Thanks
I kind of gathered that elemental silver was one of the products. I'm just curious precisely what the reactants are and what steps the reaction proceeds through.
Pinhole focus is optimized when you design the camera. An online calculator should tell you the best size pinhole for the size of your camera. As a basic view finder mark lines from the front corners to the center of the back to get an idea how close to get.
I am trying this with my class of children. We have followed all the instructions to the letter, but we are not getting any pictures, only brown sepia coloured splodges on the photographic paper. Any ideas what we could do?
We asked our lab team your question and this is what they came back with some common issues. It's most likely a leaky camera. At some stage, the paper got exposed to too much light. Some things you might want to investigate are: - Are you loading the paper into the cameras in the dark? - Are the cameras completely sealed from light? - Are you opening the cameras and developing in the dark or under red light? - Are you holding the cameras when taking photos or are they putting them on flat surfaces? Any camera movement will affect the image. - The amount of time the pin hole is open will also affect the image. It's often better to place the camera in a shady place and take a photo of something in natural light. Do let us know if that solved your problem or if you'd like an email or a phone call by one of our lab techs, they'd be happy to help. Just drop us an email at richannel@ri.ac.uk
we have a project to make a pinhole camera, but theres 1 material that i dont know where to put or what purpose.. and it is a clear lamp, so please can somebody help me about my problem?.!
+Aretha Salsabila If you're using coffee, then just replace the mint with a roughly equal amount of coffee. All the other steps should still be followed. The key ingredient here is caffic acid.
I have started my camera out of a shoebox, not the meassurements used in this video. Does anyone have a suggestion of how to do with the photo paper? Use A4 photo paper and cut it in dark room so it fits the lid or use smaller paper and attach it somehow? If I use tracing paper in the lid, how could I develop the photograph?
Late reply. Sensitized film is a much faster emulsion. I'm guessing that since it's still a silver halide base emulsion, it should still develop. You will have to develop in a sealed film drum, or, do all the processing in dark. You'd really have to experiment with development in this stuff. Fixer will be needed to remove any silver halide not exposed, in the emulsion. Otherwise, the film will fog over time when exposed to light.
Thanks for the demonstration. Beauty is in the 👁🗨. Questions : Is it possible to get a perfect line from the explosure which later on devolope/transfer to the paper? Question : May I know the sourse of light, in the photo r coming from which direction? Left/Right or Right/Left. Lastly to better understanding is the photo over/under expose? Tq🙏
im confused as to the point, if you need to take a photo of the negative with your digital camera anyway, why not just use your digital camera from the start... :D
The Royal Institution you do make a good point, I'm just wondering though, is there a way to fix a positive from the formula's and household products you have used..
You can get a positive image by using reversal paper instead of regular darkroom paper. Such as Ilford Direct Reversal Paper. Normal darkroom paper gives you a negative, since it is meant to be projected with a film negative. Meaning in a darkroom it gives the negative of a negative = positive.
i wonder if we can use Ilford Direct Reversal Paper for taking picture in the pinhole camera or not, and can we develop it ??? or we have to use paper negatives. tell me please, thank you
If it's entirely yellow you may have overexposed it (kept the camera open for too long) or some light got into it while you were developing the photo. On a sunny day, it really doesn't take very long to take a photo, maybe just 20 seconds. You may also want to have a look at our step-by-step tutorials here - www.rigb.org/education/loreal-young-scientist-centre/activities-to-try/pinhole-cameras Let us know how you get on!
The mixture quickly loses effectiveness due to the rapid oxidation of vitamin C. So the best results are achieved within an hour or two at most. Gabriele Coassin Plurimedia Edu Lab Workshop
We don't think there's a full matte photo paper, but there are resin coated photographic papers that have satin or pearl finishes rather than full on gloss. We have had great success with Ilford papers, but there are many other producers who also make great paper.
You have to have a fix solution. In reality there are four steps. Developing, stopping, fixing and washing. While washing maybe isn't very important fixing the image is. For some reason she decided not to talk about it, but without it the image will just go away after 10 minutes.
We haven't been able to come up with one that only uses household ingredients. It's been a few years though, so we'll see if we can give it another go.
i need help how do i invert the negative without any kind of computer program phone app or anything like that please tell me. becuse i see it as lazy and unprofestional to use a photoshop tool on a old techneique
I’m going to teach a group of kids to make one in a shoe box, I made one Monday was sunny and they came out fine at 7 minutes. But today, the entire sheet is over exposed even at 5 minutes and it’s overcast.
If you mean instant film, it needs to be processed inside the camera by being pressed between two rollers. By the time it's in your hand it has already been processed and flapping it does nothing. You could process it by pressing it over with a rolling pin, but in complete darkness
I watched the video, did some googling, read about photo developing process, understood the physics and chemistry behind making a photo... and Now I don't have any interest to make a pinhole camera and take a gloomy picture with it.
I don’t want to be a Karen but mine didn’t work at all. I can’t even see any trace of a photo. I have now tried multiple times with different types of paper and light. And it still has not done a thing
0:28 I don't have a container that can hold 500 million liters of water, and where do I get 10 billion dried mints, oh wait you mean your caps lock button is stuck right???
So let me get this straight. You want people to take paper negatives to convert into photographic positives by *checks notes* photographing the negative with their phone and photoshopping it. Why not just take the picture with the phone in the first place? This is the dumbest thing I've ever heard. It's like flying from Denver to Mexico, by way of Alaska.
Hey, autistic male, calm down. Its a science project for fun, not a survival tool. If youre making this and have no phone, find someone with a phone. You fn caveman. This is literally just to demonstrate how to get an image from the first type of camera ever made.
The beauty of this is that the materials used in the developing solution are non toxic. You won't have any issues with municipal or your building manager's regulations, if you rent. Great video!
@@NerdyNEET They would know what you are doing. There are municipal regulations with handling certain products. Certain chemical materials have to be disposed of in a specific way, for safety reasons, because they are toxic. Why are you responding to a comment that is 5 years old?
Am I the only one who noticed that you can't see anything on her finished photo?
mossy1 apparently so :)
I can see whats in the photo. while the composition does not reach the highest visual standarts ,she still had succeeded in developing it with simple ingredients. well done
I think 30 second is too much. she may be make it over exposure, so the photo is all white.
mossy1
It's a negative and the final image will appear mostly black. Either it's vastly underexposed, or the development wasn't as successful as the video suggests.
Photo was fine, just ahd to look to see it.
twitter.com/FossilBeBare/status/967929920230838272
This is the first time I've seen this video and was shocked to see it's 8 years old. I'll be looking for more. Not only does this video expose some "trade secrets" but it was very well done. Thanks
Love the old fashioned mixed with new technology.
Loved playing with chemicals when young. Once tried to make sulphur from fixating salt (also used for developing film) and HCL. Made the whole house stink of rotten eegs though and made my mother furious. But I had great fun :)
Small problem is it will gradually go black over time while exposed to light because there is no fixer. Your standard B&W development process includes a Developer, Fixer, stop bath is optional.
Unless you're really into the actual paper negative, once you digitize it to make a positive, it doesn't really much matter what happens to the original, does it?
Having worked in B&W and color darkrooms, at the very least, the chemicals will have a pleasing odor.
Pinhole photography brings with it, many fundamentals of imaging. Controlling the size of the pinhole is somewhat important, and will determine some sharpness and exposures, which, even for high speed film, are long. They produce a wonderful character to the image and the depth of focus is VERY great.
These are some very cool retro images and look like great fun. I think I know what me and my daughter will be doing next time I see her. Thanks!
Photographic paper is nearly impossible to find in Auckland...but as soon as I can source some I will try this with my kids. Thank you for a great instructional video.
Bummer. I'm in Tauranga. My theory is if you can't find it in Auckland, you can't find it anyway.
you can make it from scratch
I made my picture it looks amazing.
Thanks Royal institution
So what about the fixer?
I have been trying this for several weeks for a science project and it still does work
It doesn't work? If you give us more details we could see if we can help you out.
I'm addicted to this channel! Some good stuff here and also a gorgeous presenter :)
Your youtube channel shows substance and determination. I truly loved viewing it, thanks.
Can you substitute lemon juice for vinegar?
Hello :-) I love the DIYness of this video and have tried it myself with decent success.
I’m just wondering if anyone can recommend some further reading on this subject of developing photo paper with domestic supplies.
The lady mentions that it can be done with coffee and basil but I cannot find anywhere online that outlines a ‘recipe’ for the solution so I’m currently just going through a process of trial and error.
I would like to understand the science in more detail of why certain things will work in this process.
Thanks!
Google caffenol and there will be lots of recipes though I’m not sure about the basil bit
Does that second mixture render the photo no longer sensitive to light? Like an actual fixer? Or does it simply stop the developing process like a stop bath?
Never mind, answered my own question. Per their instruction sheet the photo WILL still be light sensitive and will darken over time. So to make a permanent image a fixer solution is necessary.
No fixer? It will be very unstable
I am going to be doing this with some students. I love this! I am trying to figure out the correct kind of light to use. I have b/w resin coated photo paper. Also, how long do we take the picture for? I am having them each make a camera out of something from home like a shoe box.
You've probably had answers to your questions, but I'll throw some photographic background in, just in case. Exposure: if you can approximate the diameter of the pinhole (very small) and the focal distance from the pinhole to the film plane, you can get a rough estimate of the aperture size (f#). Expect that f 250+ can be normal. Then, either guess or use a lightmeter.
The RC paper isn't really important. Use a glossy paper. Safelight: the small, round 7w light in hardware stores will work.
Processing: For development, the above will be ok. You will need a photographic fixer, which will remove any silver halide remaining in the print emulsion. Otherwise, exposure to light will 'oxidize' the silver and turn it blackish (like tarnish on 'real silverware').
IF SOMEONE IS STILL READING THIS: What type of paper is photographic paper? Any photographic printer paper? Or its some kind of "special" paper sold only in photography stores?
Hi Javier, this is what our team wrote in the accompanying worksheet - "The paper used in this workshop is Ilford Multigrade IV but any resin coated B/W photographic paper will work*. This is a silver halide treated photographic paper that will produce a negative image. " The worksheet itself can be accessed here - www.rigb.org/docs/retro_workshop_1__developing_film_0.pdf Hope this helps!
What photographic paper is used here specifically?
Or can you just use any kind of photographic paper?
It's photochemical paper, like the ones made by ilford or kodak. It needs to be sensitive to light. It’s the material old film pictures would be enlarged with.
thanks for sharing. if that's ok i'd perhaps use this information to organize free workshops for kids from the area :) could be fun!
Absolutely! We'd love for you to do this activity with local groups - don't miss the instructions for making the pinhole camera itself, too: www.rigb.org/education/loreal-young-scientist-centre/activities-to-try/pinhole-cameras
I was wondering if it can be fresh mint, or if the dried mint has more of the caffeic acid needed?
me too
I am glad found this site. Now I can try all this at home!
I have been playing around with different exposure times and have been having mixed results - no good pictures yet and have also noticed the photo paper remains light sensitive and eventually all turns brown. Is there where a fixer is required?
Photographic paper is very sensitive with a light. Put the photographic paper into the camera while you're in dark room.
What kind of photographic paper do you use? I can't figure out what kind.
The paper used in this workshop is Ilford
Multigrade IV but any resin coated B/W photographic paper will work. We got ours from here - www.ilfordphoto.com/photographic-paper/resin-coated-paper
My son is trying to do this for a school project. We got a faint partial image the first go, but after that nothing seems to happen during development, the photos are remaining completely white, so visible image at all. Any idea what the problem might be?
Did the picture work? I don’t see an image. I want to see the finished image.
I'm confused. Looks like the image comes out in negative? Then you have to go all digital to make it positive. Doesn't that destroy the point of it? Is there a way to get the photos to come out positive?
You can create a contact print by placing the negative on top of another piece of photographic paper and exposing it to light.
Certainly! just use Harman direct positive paper to get a positive (high contrast) image. To obtain an effective developing bath it is necessary to add a cup (100 ml) of ROBUSTA quality espresso coffee for every half liter of product with the suggested formula, and heat it to approximately 26/28 degrees centigrade in order to develop a visible image in approximately 5 minutes.
Pay attention! Do not use Soda Bicarbonate but Soda Carbonate. Obviously everything works discreetly only if the exposure time of the paper in the pinhole camera is sufficient! Warning! Here we are not talking about the fact that the image then vanishes in a short time, if you don't immediately put it in the dark, because it is not fixed. The oldest and most ecological fixing is done by completely dissolving two full spoons of table salt in half a liter of water and leaving the paper to soak for at least 12/18 hours, shaking occasionally; then wash at least 15 minutes in running water and dry in the shade. The contrast decreases a lot, leaving a very delicate image with a vintage scent. These suggestions are at the moment only at the level of small experimental alchemy, without claims of scientific accuracy. Gabriele Coassin, Plurimedia Edu Lab
Sorry, it means that with the lemon and water solution we won't need the fixer? if I use coffee instead, the lemon solution works also?? Thanks!
hi i just want to ask how many time you can reuse this stuff?
The reverse the image you can also contact print that negative on another piece of the same paper. But, you should probably make the negative darker to begin with by making a longer exposure in camera. This was a cheap way of making photos used by many tourist photographers around the world for many, many years.
This is the most frustrating thing, I’m doing this for a school project, how do you get a good picture? It’s cloudy in WA and no matter what I do, 30 seconds to 3 minutes nothing works
Thank you SO much! I was looking for a cheaper solution! BRILLIANT! Question: Do you still need to do the water bath after you fix? Alternative solution: to make a positive, you can sandwich a new piece of photo paper and the negative under glass. Expose them to light and then develop the positive.
+Timeka Gilliam You're probably gonna want a water bath to wash the fix off
+lanswipe Thank you. Yes, we did you a water bath after all. The images were still relatively brown (I assume as a result of the tea despite it's hue?). Also, the images seemed to continue to develop over time... perhaps my fix was not strong enough... any thoughts?
+Timeka Gilliam sounds like a problem with your stop bath not your fix
whats the difference between stop batch a fix?
@@v1nchynoobs Stop bath halts the developer, Fixer dissolves the unexposed silver making the image permanent.
What is with the fixer?
Absolutely fascinated.!! Love your enthusiasm and thank you for sharing.
I need help finding the paper can someone like tell me what to look up exactly to order it
We used Ilford Multigrade IV (www.ilfordphoto.com/multigrade-iv-rc-deluxe-glossy-sheets) but any resin coated black & white photographic paper should work. There;s more detail on technique here - www.rigb.org/education/loreal-young-scientist-centre/activities-to-try/pinhole-cameras
The Royal Institution thanks, i just ordered some
@@TheRoyalInstitution how can we make the image positive instead of using computer or phone?
I would like to know if it is possible to reuse and if it is possible to store the solution to use a few days later.
You can definitely reuse it for several picture on the same day. We haven't tested how well it keeps but we would guess that it's unlikely to work well on the second day.
@@TheRoyalInstitution thanks for answering!
I find that this nice cheeky lady could sell ice cream in Greenland or sand in the Sahara... I spend at least a year experimenting before publishing something, and every now and then I regret it because I feel like I haven't looked into it enough... I hope I don't disappoint anyone at the Experimental Photo Festival 2024 in Barcelona this year with my photographic development workshop with garden plants...
How much can you reuse the mixture?
We tried it with 10 images, and it was fine. We haven't tried with more than that.
Can I use this in dental paper, as I'm using dental paper instead of photographic paper
Old vid I know. I have made a pinhole camera out of a tea caddy. Now I wanted to make my own DIY paper developer chemicals. Tested this recipe. It works! Tea caddy loaded with Ilford Muligrade IV RC De Lux paper (what a name). Developed with “your” DIY-mix. instagram.com/p/BtVtlADlMlO/
Next I will be trying coffee instead of mint tea…
Thanks
Amazing, thanks for sharing!
Do you have resources detailing the chemistry involved? I'd be interested to see exactly what reactions are taking place.
I kind of gathered that elemental silver was one of the products. I'm just curious precisely what the reactants are and what steps the reaction proceeds through.
I halved the recipe. it didn’t work. Can someone help me understand some things I could’ve done wrong? even with the camera too?
For portraiture, what would be the ideal distance from the pin hole for best focus?
Pinhole focus is optimized when you design the camera. An online calculator should tell you the best size pinhole for the size of your camera. As a basic view finder mark lines from the front corners to the center of the back to get an idea how close to get.
how about fixer
This is great! Thanks guys! X
Can I use coloured raisin coated photographic paper? Please reply asap
Can you use vinegar instead of lemon juice?
10% vinegar + 90% water Is ok
How about making the photographic paper?
can u use this recipe to develop negatives
I am trying this with my class of children. We have followed all the instructions to the letter, but we are not getting any pictures, only brown sepia coloured splodges on the photographic paper. Any ideas what we could do?
We asked our lab team your question and this is what they came back with some common issues.
It's most likely a leaky camera. At some stage, the paper got exposed to too much light. Some things you might want to investigate are:
- Are you loading the paper into the cameras in the dark?
- Are the cameras completely sealed from light?
- Are you opening the cameras and developing in the dark or under red light?
- Are you holding the cameras when taking photos or are they putting them on flat surfaces? Any camera movement will affect the image.
- The amount of time the pin hole is open will also affect the image. It's often better to place the camera in a shady place and take a photo of something in natural light.
Do let us know if that solved your problem or if you'd like an email or a phone call by one of our lab techs, they'd be happy to help. Just drop us an email at richannel@ri.ac.uk
we have a project to make a pinhole camera, but theres 1 material that i dont know where to put or what purpose.. and it is a clear lamp, so please can somebody help me about my problem?.!
if we're using coffee instead of dried mint, should we also use vitamin c tablets and carbonated water too? pls i need the answer
+Aretha Salsabila If you're using coffee, then just replace the mint with a roughly equal amount of coffee. All the other steps should still be followed. The key ingredient here is caffic acid.
for the red light, is it possible to just use an image of red on a laptop?
It is not, no, since OLED and LCD use RGB (Red, Green, Blue) individual pixels that trick only your eyes into thinking it displays red.
I have started my camera out of a shoebox, not the meassurements used in this video. Does anyone have a suggestion of how to do with the photo paper? Use A4 photo paper and cut it in dark room so it fits the lid or use smaller paper and attach it somehow?
If I use tracing paper in the lid, how could I develop the photograph?
She didn't fix her photo, so will it not just fade?
fixer is not a necessity..its an option.
Fixer is not an option..... it's a necessity, if you want your fotos not to fade with time!
You digitize it and turn it into a positive. Does it matter what happens to the actual original negative?
@@gypsies0184 Yes, it matters if you appreciate the original image on the photo paper, not something printed out digitally.
could it be possible to use this development method with 35mm film (not for any serious photography though)?
Late reply. Sensitized film is a much faster emulsion. I'm guessing that since it's still a silver halide base emulsion, it should still develop. You will have to develop in a sealed film drum, or, do all the processing in dark. You'd really have to experiment with development in this stuff. Fixer will be needed to remove any silver halide not exposed, in the emulsion. Otherwise, the film will fog over time when exposed to light.
After making the photographic paper and keeping it inside the camera , will it automatically print the photo ?
no?
Could I use citric acid instead of lemon juice?
Yes, about 15 grams per litre for paper, film needs less. Also diluted vingegar would work (white, not balsamico)
how much coffee should i use??
what photograph paper do i use?
Thanks for the demonstration. Beauty is in the 👁🗨. Questions : Is it possible to get a perfect line from the explosure which later on devolope/transfer to the paper?
Question : May I know the sourse of light, in the photo r coming from which direction? Left/Right or Right/Left.
Lastly to better understanding is the photo over/under expose? Tq🙏
what are you talking about?
lol
im confused as to the point, if you need to take a photo of the negative with your digital camera anyway, why not just use your digital camera from the start... :D
AwesomeVindicator Because where's the fun in that?
The Royal Institution you do make a good point, I'm just wondering though, is there a way to fix a positive from the formula's and household products you have used..
AwesomeVindicator This may be what you are looking for - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photographic_processing#Colour_processing
You can get a positive image by using reversal paper instead of regular darkroom paper. Such as Ilford Direct Reversal Paper.
Normal darkroom paper gives you a negative, since it is meant to be projected with a film negative. Meaning in a darkroom it gives the negative of a negative = positive.
i wonder if we can use Ilford Direct Reversal Paper for taking picture in the pinhole camera or not, and can we develop it ??? or we have to use paper negatives. tell me please, thank you
I live in bush ak where getting some of these supplies is difficult. Does anyone know how many times the developer can be reused?
OP said you could use it like 10 times but they haven't tried more
I'm a little confused, do we add dried mint to tea or to water only?
+Mithilesh Kuncham the first solution is the developer and the second is the fixer or is it just a stop bath?
Ghina Albiek its not a fixer
I need help, after i take my picture out of the stopper solution, my picture is blank, just slightly yellow, what am i doing wrong?
If it's entirely yellow you may have overexposed it (kept the camera open for too long) or some light got into it while you were developing the photo. On a sunny day, it really doesn't take very long to take a photo, maybe just 20 seconds. You may also want to have a look at our step-by-step tutorials here - www.rigb.org/education/loreal-young-scientist-centre/activities-to-try/pinhole-cameras
Let us know how you get on!
The same thing happened to me. I realized that I wasn't using the right paper. So make sure you are using photographic paper.
Why doesnt my pinhole camera work. when i go to develop the photopaper it just turns the a pretty sepia color. no image
can you help me? where did you buy the photopaper? is there any available link for this?
How do know when it is ready in the mint tea solution.
You can peek at it by lifting the end gently and having a look underneath. Just make sure you do it under low red light.
can you reuse these solutions for separate shots?
The mixture quickly loses effectiveness due to the rapid oxidation of vitamin C. So the best results are achieved within an hour or two at most. Gabriele Coassin Plurimedia Edu Lab Workshop
is there are substitute for vitamin c tablets
We have similar profile pics ☺️☺️☺️☺️
Thanks for the video!
I'm gonna have to start learning how to develop photos myself with kodak going away.
Ok ..I've a negative. How to make positive?
Does matte photo paper work Plz answer asap
We don't think there's a full matte photo paper, but there are resin coated photographic papers that have satin or pearl finishes rather than full on gloss. We have had great success with Ilford papers, but there are many other producers who also make great paper.
This video is awesome but my photos keep fading. How do I prevent that?
You have to have a fix solution. In reality there are four steps. Developing, stopping, fixing and washing. While washing maybe isn't very important fixing the image is. For some reason she decided not to talk about it, but without it the image will just go away after 10 minutes.
Yep. I miss the fixing part! Have to search for diy fixation.
No fixer?
We haven't been able to come up with one that only uses household ingredients. It's been a few years though, so we'll see if we can give it another go.
@@TheRoyalInstitution Have you tried salt or sea water? I heard it is effective but have not tried it yet. I will be in a few weeks.
@@ladypaax and?
i need help how do i invert the negative without any kind of computer program phone app or anything like that please tell me. becuse i see it as lazy and unprofestional to use a photoshop tool on a old techneique
place the negative on top of an unused sheet of photographic paper and shine a light on it, then develop that
take a photo of the photo with your pinhole camera and do the process from the start
Will this also work on 35mm film?
yes you just need to do some calculations
Yes but only Black and White, Color film uses different chemistry and has to be done in pitch black as it is sensitive to every color of light
Will this also work on 35mm film
no
bw film only
WILL THIS REALLY WORK????
Hey does anyone know what the film they used was called?
It's not film, it's photo paper.
okay but do you know what kind of 'photo paper' they used?
No sorry, but a lot of people are asking that. Scroll through the comments and maybe you'll find an answer.
I’m going to teach a group of kids to make one in a shoe box, I made one Monday was sunny and they came out fine at 7 minutes. But today, the entire sheet is over exposed even at 5 minutes and it’s overcast.
It doesnt work
If I use fuji film could I just flap it around to develop it like in fuji film cameras?
If you mean instant film, it needs to be processed inside the camera by being pressed between two rollers. By the time it's in your hand it has already been processed and flapping it does nothing. You could process it by pressing it over with a rolling pin, but in complete darkness
😇, Thank you
if it's made from scratch, the photographic paper should be made from scratch as well
I watched the video, did some googling, read about photo developing process, understood the physics and chemistry behind making a photo... and Now I don't have any interest to make a pinhole camera and take a gloomy picture with it.
Results were terrible... WTF
I don’t want to be a Karen but mine didn’t work at all. I can’t even see any trace of a photo. I have now tried multiple times with different types of paper and light. And it still has not done a thing
With what kinds of paper?
Im from facebook : pinhole gresik. Good job
0:28 I don't have a container that can hold 500 million liters of water, and where do I get 10 billion dried mints, oh wait you mean your caps lock button is stuck right???
Is this a joke? There's nothing on the print.
3:41 Are you blind? ^^
Or if you like...twitter.com/FossilBeBare/status/967929920230838272
it takes many tries to figure out how to get the perfect negative.
I used this for my visa application, Trump changed the H1B law
More crazy developers: www.caffenol.org/
😭👏🏼
Pinhole sounds dirty.
Unfortunately Trump cant use it
Well that was a waste of good mint.....................
Ah yes, the metric system.
So let me get this straight. You want people to take paper negatives to convert into photographic positives by *checks notes* photographing the negative with their phone and photoshopping it.
Why not just take the picture with the phone in the first place?
This is the dumbest thing I've ever heard. It's like flying from Denver to Mexico, by way of Alaska.
Hey, autistic male, calm down. Its a science project for fun, not a survival tool. If youre making this and have no phone, find someone with a phone. You fn caveman. This is literally just to demonstrate how to get an image from the first type of camera ever made.