Do you like the look of the new camera I am using? Let me know! ⏱TIMESTAMPS⏱ 0:00 Intro 2:34 How to cut wall plates 3:41 How to layout a wall 16" on center 6:54 How to build a door opening 10:06 How to nail studs 12:33 How to install sheathing 15:52 How to install house wrap 17:28 How to stand up a wall
Hey I just wanted to say that I framed houses for 35 years and all interior doors were always 82.5 instead of just adding 2 inches to the height you add 2 and a half. You never know if they are going to change the flooring from carpet to marble or whatever but its always easier to pad down the opening than it is to try to raise the header after drywall is hung and its been taped, finished and textured. Reason for also is the 3/4 inch door jam leaves you a 1/4 inch on both sides of the door for shim space. If the framer rough opening is out of plumb you have that ezttra 1/2 inch of play in the width and add the 2 and a half inches to the height for 1 inch above for shim space and getting your header level which leaves you and inch and a half for flooring. I would rather have a quarter or even a half inch space between my door bottom and flooring then have to cut the finished door down to make ie fit. Rule of thumb always frame openings bigger than smaller bexause after drywall its alot of work to cut into the opening but not so much to pad it out which usually the door trim will cover all rhar padding anyway. Level , plumb and square and payday is on friday. Motto of any good carpenter!!! Thanks for your videos Josh! Oh also exterior doors are 83 for the heaight R.O. for a 6'8" door which is standard. If you are using 8' doors then your R.O. will be 98 1/2 on the height.
Hey Michael! I appreciate your detailed comment on how you frame your walls. Also "Level, plumb, square, and payday is on friday" is a great saying! I appreciate you watching my video and commenting. Stay tuned!
I always frame 82.5 as well. Width on exterior doors are usually only 1 1/2" inches larger than width as interior is usually 2" larger then door If you build custom homes they can have doors all different sizes. Whatever the plans call for💯
Great DIY video but it is faster and more efficient to turn the plates on edge and do layout that way. Make your marks on the plate sides and mark 16oc and just center your stud on that line. No need to mark 15-1/4.
Hey just a tips that might be helpful it will allow you to carry one less tool and save time switching tools to the pipe wrench. Estwing makes a hammer with a fin looking piece of metal on it it is used for grabbing a stud and twisting it into place it's very convenient since it's already in your hand anyway usually if you were using a regular hammer
Hey Josh, 3/4" Pressure Treated Ground Contact plywood just hit $81.58 per sheet in Western Pennsylvania. LoL I'm going to have to buy 1/16 of a sheet every payday until I can get a full sheet. 🤣
My question is why dont you use pressure treated for your sill plate, or atleast use a sill gasket ? Here in Nova Scotia, Canada, we use pressure treated on all sills , usually with a sill gasket too.
Learning lots from your tutorial videos, brother! Thanks for sharing your excellent knowledge! I was wondering....aren’t the Ring Shank 3-1/4” (or 3-1/2”) galvanized nails a better option, on the framing, than the Smooth Bright nails? I’m in Hawaii, and I need to be alert about the salt in the air, over here, plus the ring shank nails provide a much better grip into the wood, doesn’t it? I’m a new subscriber, too!
I'm just curious where you are located that you're framing exterior walls with only 2x4s? I've only ever seen 2x6 exterior (even 2x8 for extra insulation) and 2x4 interior walls. Thanks.
I underatand your chalk line at 4", to allow for the sheathing, but then you take the plate end all the way to the end of the foundation. This would require the shesthing on the connecting wall to overhang the foundation instead of flush. Should you leave the end of the plate 1/2" back also, to allow for the 1/2" sheathing?
GM, I'm going to use your tips on framing an exterior wall to my townhouse that we live in. We're are removing the useless double patio sliding doors next month.. thanks for the great video. There's always a project here..! :)
You are welcome. I enjoy making these videos for people like you to watch. That is the beauty of RUclips, being able to share knowledge and experiences. Thanks for watching!
Those dang bolts always hit right where you don’t want them huh? I see you cut the one that was in the door opening off. What did you replace it with or how did you attach that end to the concrete? Ramset?
really thorough and clean vid .. love the ethic pop dukes knows his shit. you can tell these men are about this work clean work guys thank you entirely for the knowledge you just gave me allot of confidence in myself now i know this valuable information
Did you say you were going to cut the bottom plate out under the door opening? I've seen reference to that before. If so, I assume you skipped that portion with the liquid nails.
The nail guns come in different angles and they can be paper clipped or not. You will have to look at the specs of the gun to determine what nails to buy for the gun.
I have 2 exterior doors to install, one rough opening has to be enlarged and the other may have termite damage which will have to be replaced with pressure treated wood. So I'm approaching this like building a new wall.
I'm surprised by the amount of folks I work with that refuse to use their feet to hold materials off the deck. Dropping things on your feet hurt, but laying it gently, your feet can hold a lot of weight before it starts to hurt. I guess it's what you're used to, but I think it's less professional to pull someone off of what they are doing so they can hold up a 20 lb. pine 2x4 so that you don't get your toe hurt.
I was about to add a door to a wall & I ran into a metal angle brace, how would I go about moving forward with my door project without weakening my wall?
I THINK for longivity the outside panel MUST extend beyond the floor line. Any opportunity for rain water to creep in under a flush panel to floor joint WILL cause wicking and eventually dry rot. He claims to use pressure treated lumber but as the commercial says, "If it don't say Yellow...you don't want it." There are definitely poorer performing treated lumber packaged out there. Darrow...for the Prosecution
Hey The Excellent Laborer, thanks for making the video. Really liked the tip using a plumbing wrench to adjust the studs. One question though, you placed adhesive underneath the wall, but doesn't the building code in your area require a some form of foam gasket to prevent moisture from wicking up into the plate? I don't know, do treated plates in your area work just as well. Thanks, H.D.H.
Thanks a lot for watching handy dandy husband. No I never do put anything between the pressure-treated plate and concrete. I have not had any issues. Stay tuned!
I have seen a lot of your videos, and I admit that your work is of superb quality, and we quickly notice it in the precision of the details. But since I'm not an American, I wanted to know what is the lifespan of a wooden house as you build, and thanks in advance.
DP: Most American houses are built of wood. When well maintained they can last indefinitely. Certainly long past the lifetime of the owners and their grand children. My grandfather's house was built in 1882 and is still a lovely and safe house.
So when the wall is standing up and anchored is the wall sheathing supposed to be flush with the floor? So basically If I use 1/2" plywood should that 1/2" also be contacting the floor or hanging off? This is my first time building anything so I really appreciate the help.
20 nails in the Header , ? And got the older man doing the labor ,you young people kill me, but I build also 56 yrs.old and I'm much stronger than the young bucks on my job.
Fps is NOT your problem. Excess camera motion is your problem. You are trying to transfer technical information to people who are not necessarily tuned in to the particulars of this business and the camera bouncing around from one idea to another, all the while glancing over to a pile of lumber unexpectantly, is most unnerving while you are trying grasp the essence of what you are saying. Darrow...for the Prosecution
Do you like the look of the new camera I am using? Let me know!
⏱TIMESTAMPS⏱
0:00 Intro
2:34 How to cut wall plates
3:41 How to layout a wall 16" on center
6:54 How to build a door opening
10:06 How to nail studs
12:33 How to install sheathing
15:52 How to install house wrap
17:28 How to stand up a wall
How much was the Materials??
Hey I just wanted to say that I framed houses for 35 years and all interior doors were always 82.5 instead of just adding 2 inches to the height you add 2 and a half. You never know if they are going to change the flooring from carpet to marble or whatever but its always easier to pad down the opening than it is to try to raise the header after drywall is hung and its been taped, finished and textured. Reason for also is the 3/4 inch door jam leaves you a 1/4 inch on both sides of the door for shim space. If the framer rough opening is out of plumb you have that ezttra 1/2 inch of play in the width and add the 2 and a half inches to the height for 1 inch above for shim space and getting your header level which leaves you and inch and a half for flooring. I would rather have a quarter or even a half inch space between my door bottom and flooring then have to cut the finished door down to make ie fit. Rule of thumb always frame openings bigger than smaller bexause after drywall its alot of work to cut into the opening but not so much to pad it out which usually the door trim will cover all rhar padding anyway. Level , plumb and square and payday is on friday. Motto of any good carpenter!!! Thanks for your videos Josh! Oh also exterior doors are 83 for the heaight R.O. for a 6'8" door which is standard. If you are using 8' doors then your R.O. will be 98 1/2 on the height.
Hey Michael! I appreciate your detailed comment on how you frame your walls. Also "Level, plumb, square, and payday is on friday" is a great saying! I appreciate you watching my video and commenting. Stay tuned!
I always frame 82.5 as well. Width on exterior doors are usually only 1 1/2" inches larger than width as interior is usually 2" larger then door
If you build custom homes they can have doors all different sizes. Whatever the plans call for💯
He's building an exterior door not an interior. In addition he does explain know the measurements of your door and the sub floor your using.
Videos like this sure help the DIY homeowner, thanks
Great! I’m glad it was helpful for you. Be sure to subscribe!
Great DIY video but it is faster and more efficient to turn the plates on edge and do layout that way. Make your marks on the plate sides and mark 16oc and just center your stud on that line. No need to mark 15-1/4.
Thank you I’m turning a barn into a house and trying todo as much as I can my self
Good you hear from a fellow DIYer! It saves so much money to do it yourself. Good luck on your project!
Hey just a tips that might be helpful it will allow you to carry one less tool and save time switching tools to the pipe wrench. Estwing makes a hammer with a fin looking piece of metal on it it is used for grabbing a stud and twisting it into place it's very convenient since it's already in your hand anyway usually if you were using a regular hammer
Nice framing with the door I'm going to save money and build my house one day 🤠👍
You’re Awesome with the details!!! I really appreciate you!!
Detailed information is the only way to go. The little details can make or break a project. Thanks a lot for watching!
What did you do for that anchor bolt in your floor plate. Shouldn’t that bolt ha been moved over toward the corner just past the door frame stud.
Like the new camera
It is a great video. I hope you keep uploading more videos
Thanks Nelson! I appreciate your kind words. I will keep the content coming!
Hey Josh, 3/4" Pressure Treated Ground Contact plywood just hit $81.58 per sheet in Western Pennsylvania. LoL I'm going to have to buy 1/16 of a sheet every payday until I can get a full sheet. 🤣
As always super professional and really informative video man. Love it
My question is why dont you use pressure treated for your sill plate, or atleast use a sill gasket ? Here in Nova Scotia, Canada, we use pressure treated on all sills , usually with a sill gasket too.
Learning lots from your tutorial videos, brother! Thanks for sharing your excellent knowledge! I was wondering....aren’t the Ring Shank 3-1/4” (or 3-1/2”) galvanized nails a better option, on the framing, than the Smooth Bright nails? I’m in Hawaii, and I need to be alert about the salt in the air, over here, plus the ring shank nails provide a much better grip into the wood, doesn’t it? I’m a new subscriber, too!
I'm just curious where you are located that you're framing exterior walls with only 2x4s? I've only ever seen 2x6 exterior (even 2x8 for extra insulation) and 2x4 interior walls. Thanks.
I underatand your chalk line at 4", to allow for the sheathing, but then you take the plate end all the way to the end of the foundation. This would require the shesthing on the connecting wall to overhang the foundation instead of flush. Should you leave the end of the plate 1/2" back also, to allow for the 1/2" sheathing?
No sil gasket between the bottom and the floor? Ouchie.
GM, I'm going to use your tips on framing an exterior wall to my townhouse that we live in. We're are removing the useless double patio sliding doors next month.. thanks for the great video. There's always a project here..! :)
great video. could you have one of your associates hold your camera for you next recording. thank you!
Love your sunglasses
Got to protect the eyes!
Thanks for making these videos
You are welcome. I enjoy making these videos for people like you to watch. That is the beauty of RUclips, being able to share knowledge and experiences. Thanks for watching!
Those dang bolts always hit right where you don’t want them huh? I see you cut the one that was in the door opening off. What did you replace it with or how did you attach that end to the concrete? Ramset?
Where do you take the measurement from ? I missed that in the video ..
Alright, i did it! I framed a wall with a door! Now i just need find some place to put it
How do you feel about wedge anchors to secure your footers?
Great tips!
Thank you for sharing
really thorough and clean vid .. love the ethic pop dukes knows his shit. you can tell these men are about this work clean work guys thank you entirely for the knowledge you just gave me allot of confidence in myself now i know this valuable information
What size nail do you use for the framing?.....by the way good content🎉
16d 3 1/2” for studs and 8d 2 3/4” for sheathing. Thanks and I hope that helps!
Yes sir I am here watching your video as we speak, learning alot
ruclips.net/user/shortsNPho82gMIe0?si=UZu2Z5It-Hd642l5
Did you say you were going to cut the bottom plate out under the door opening? I've seen reference to that before. If so, I assume you skipped that portion with the liquid nails.
Correct!
You used 2 3/8 nails for the sheathing, and what size was it that you used for nailing the plates to the studs?
3 1/4 nails
I’m looking for a nail gun for framing, are they all the same size to take different size nails?
The nail guns come in different angles and they can be paper clipped or not. You will have to look at the specs of the gun to determine what nails to buy for the gun.
I have 2 exterior doors to install, one rough opening has to be enlarged and the other may have termite damage which will have to be replaced with pressure treated wood. So I'm approaching this like building a new wall.
What do you do if you have a low roof line and can't use a 6 inch header? Can I just double the 2x4
I'm surprised by the amount of folks I work with that refuse to use their feet to hold materials off the deck. Dropping things on your feet hurt, but laying it gently, your feet can hold a lot of weight before it starts to hurt. I guess it's what you're used to, but I think it's less professional to pull someone off of what they are doing so they can hold up a 20 lb. pine 2x4 so that you don't get your toe hurt.
I was about to add a door to a wall & I ran into a metal angle brace, how would I go about moving forward with my door project without weakening my wall?
Helpful video! Does the sheathing normally extend down past the sill plate? why would that not be needed in this case?
I THINK for longivity the outside panel MUST extend beyond the floor line. Any opportunity for rain water to creep in under a flush panel to floor joint WILL cause wicking and eventually dry rot. He claims to use pressure treated lumber but as the commercial says, "If it don't say Yellow...you don't want it." There are definitely poorer performing treated lumber packaged out there.
Darrow...for the Prosecution
Hey The Excellent Laborer, thanks for making the video. Really liked the tip using a plumbing wrench to adjust the studs. One question though, you placed adhesive underneath the wall, but doesn't the building code in your area require a some form of foam gasket to prevent moisture from wicking up into the plate? I don't know, do treated plates in your area work just as well. Thanks, H.D.H.
Thanks a lot for watching handy dandy husband. No I never do put anything between the pressure-treated plate and concrete. I have not had any issues. Stay tuned!
where are you from, I would love to be able to frame sheet and wrap all at once. I want to move out of California and build homes in another state.
Are you sheathing before you set the wall up?
Very nice! It's like watching TV while riding a roller coaster. I threw up twice by 5:18.
20:52 Did you remove the anchor bolt?
Not sure where you are but, here, you have to have a moisture barrier between your sill plate and concrete to stop the weep.
Are the anchor bolts every 6ft?
And another great video!!!! What camera do you use. Videos look great!
Cannon M50. I’ll put a link in the description if you want to check it out.
I have seen a lot of your videos, and I admit that your work is of superb quality, and we quickly notice it in the precision of the details. But since I'm not an American, I wanted to know what is the lifespan of a wooden house as you build, and thanks in advance.
DP: Most American houses are built of wood. When well maintained they can last indefinitely. Certainly long past the lifetime of the owners and their grand children. My grandfather's house was built in 1882 and is still a lovely and safe house.
Good video!
Thanks a lot Chris!
The 24 frames seem to be a little jumpy, especially when you are moving around and turning or spinning.
You've also said you're liberal with your nailing and liberal with paint on the roller. I'm confused.
"Squeeze a nice bead" is the next "pinch a loaf".
Do you build in Florida?? I would love to have a 1200sf home built.
Let’s get you one built!!!
So when the wall is standing up and anchored is the wall sheathing supposed to be flush with the floor? So basically If I use 1/2" plywood should that 1/2" also be contacting the floor or hanging off? This is my first time building anything so I really appreciate the help.
But all in all it looks good.
How long did it take you to this house?
Takes me about a year per 1500 ft.². I hope that is informative!
I see nobody caught this but I see that somebody Miss measured the holes for the sill plate looks like
“The only thing I’m liberal about is my Liquid Nails…” I knew I liked ya for some reason.
Lose the 24 fsp use 60
Thanks for the feedback!
I thought you said pressure treated base plate on slab ? That does not look pressure treated.
im dizzy ....
Brother the motion sickness is killing me
Waving the camera around is making me sea sick. Can't watch this.
Now you can get a Tripod for that camera and not have to carry it!
Thank God! I hate caring this thing around LOL. Thanks for watching!
"the only thing I'm liberal about is my liquid nails"
20 nails in the Header , ? And got the older man doing the labor ,you young people kill me, but I build also 56 yrs.old and I'm much stronger than the young bucks on my job.
Hire a camera man 😂🤣😅
I would love one!
Fps is NOT your problem. Excess camera motion is your problem. You are trying to transfer technical information to people who are not necessarily tuned in to the particulars of this business and the camera bouncing around from one idea to another, all the while glancing over to a pile of lumber unexpectantly, is most unnerving while you are trying grasp the essence of what you are saying.
Darrow...for the Prosecution
90% talking. Smh.
I have used a pipe wrench for twisted wood 🪵
It works great!