Really enjoying the Raw Grind ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ always a huge fan of the breakdown in process that someone goes through for personal hard bouldering. Also seeing your tricks and tips for "perfect" skin conditions is really helpful. It would be great, if possible, for you to explain the outside humidity/temp as well as rock humidity/temp that you prefer and why. If you have already explained this maybe you could give me a link to the video.
Thanks for the feedback! Temps and skin is a subject I frequently discuss as it comes up, so it's touched on in many videos. No in depth discussions. I gave a TL;DR in response to @olivierroy7369 comment on this video. I have plans for a Q&A series of videos based on questions from the comments, and this one is definitely on the list for a more nuanced discussion.
Congrats dude. Epic send, haven’t been that happy to see someone send their project on a video before. Loved the videos leading up to it as well. Insightful and relatable.
Thanks! I hadn't considered that ejection potential until now 😳 There's still plenty of opportunity - I'll be a lot more desperate from the low start 💀
Great video once again. Since I've read in the comments that you're doing a Q&A series, here are some questions: 1. What is your skincare routine? 2. How do you decide that you're ready for another send go session? Just feeling, or are there some metrics you collect? 3. Do you do an off the wall warm up before jumping in the project? If not, why not? 4. How does your training look like when you're not focused on sending? If any question isn't clear, let me know!
Awesome, thanks for the questions. Now that youtube has increased the shorts limit to 3 minutes that seems like the perfect format for Q&A. Stay tuned!
Love your attitude on there on bad weather days. Even a wet day of climbing is still a day of climbing. Keep crushing man. Edit: didn't realize it would dry out so fast 😂 that wind is gnarly! congrats dude
50km winds straight at the boulder! Luckily I was around back, but it was whipping around. It went from soaking wet to too dry in span of 2 hrs. Attitude on bad weather remains - to hit the primo days gotta be close to the edge.
As someone with a terrible memory, I felt that return trip home so hard. Can’t believe it ended with a send! Honestly this is as fun to watch as Bosi on his projects. Awesome getting to see the process on both great international and local boulders. That line has some very aesthetic movements. Not a straight-forward ladder. Good luck on the sit.
I'm enjoying the hard projecting, I recently started projecting outdoors on the west coast so its cool to see your routine and its getting me inspired to start some hard projects
Awesome, pushing to your personal limit is the most rewarding form of climbing. The west coast is also a challenging climate, so the struggle against elements will be similar.
What a fight, congrats! The line looks incredible 👌 Would you mind explaining a bit why you want the holds and the air a little bit humid, and not as dry as possible? Is it only applicable to this specific rock type, or your skin? Or is it a general tactic that I'm not aware of? Thanks!
Thanks! Our granite is extremely friction dependant. In summer when most people climb, yes, the drier the better. Absolute optimal friction between skin and granite occurs in single digit temperatures, but with significant surface moisture. Dry conditions in the cold are almost as brutal as summer humidity. The ambient humidity determines the rock surface moisture. The best skin condition varies by individual, but very cold and slightly damp (but NOT wet or sweaty). The best situation is a 5 degree day with 95% humidity and on the verge of rain. All the optimisation in this video is trying to create that edge when nature won't cooperate (which is 99% of sessions).
that was shakespearesk with the serpentines leading up (down) to the pathetic-depressing-climax, and then right after that the wind catches up, rustles in the trees, the picture shakes (=earth is moving), and it is won. BÄM! 🥳 don't get btter audio gear, you don't need anything better. maybe a list what to pack. this must be youtube bot god pleasing content as well.
Thanks so much! There was a certain poetry to this session. I only send a few lines a year, so this was a rare experience. My friend Jen is always saying I need a check list. With so much gear, I often forget something. One day it was boat key after I'd already launched. I agree - get good with the gear you have is my philosophy.
Nah, perfectly legit question. Problem is, I finished my guidebook and hven't done a repeat since spring 2023. Grinding on projects since then so my grading is not calibrated at the moment.
Congratulations, the grind pays off! I have heard about sticky damp conditions, but I didn't realize damp could be THAT damp. Good to know for winter granite projects 🙏
Thanks! Feels good but the grind never ends - next session is 2 days from now on last seasons unfinished project. And so the grind continues. The lower the temp, the more moisture you want. But the issue is the colder the ambient - the less moisture air can hold and deliver to rock. It's a direct conflict. Visible dampness is ~15%. Optimal is 10 - 12% ish. During dry cold it's common for moisture to be undetectable. Holds will have classic "glassy" feel. Painting holds with water to hit optimal is an art that get better with practice. Meter helps when you're learning, but ultimately it's by practice and feel.
I love the more frequent uploads!
Thanks! That's my goal with the new format
Really enjoying the Raw Grind ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ always a huge fan of the breakdown in process that someone goes through for personal hard bouldering. Also seeing your tricks and tips for "perfect" skin conditions is really helpful. It would be great, if possible, for you to explain the outside humidity/temp as well as rock humidity/temp that you prefer and why.
If you have already explained this maybe you could give me a link to the video.
Thanks for the feedback! Temps and skin is a subject I frequently discuss as it comes up, so it's touched on in many videos. No in depth discussions. I gave a TL;DR in response to @olivierroy7369 comment on this video. I have plans for a Q&A series of videos based on questions from the comments, and this one is definitely on the list for a more nuanced discussion.
i learned so much about humidity and temps. I took notes! lol
Congrats dude.
Epic send, haven’t been that happy to see someone send their project on a video before.
Loved the videos leading up to it as well.
Insightful and relatable.
Thanks! These outdoor lines are often a significant strugle, and a surprise send like this is a rare moment. I'm glad I was able to share it for once.
Excellent work, congrats! I didn't expect an actual send in this session either after the first half of the video. 😄👍
Thanks! Send caught me by total suprise too! I was coming to terms with another failed sesh 30 seconds before sending 😄
Amazing send, beautiful line, beautiful scenery! What more can you ask for?
What a sick boulder!
Congrats on the send!
Looking forward to see the sit start grind some day. A king-line for sure!
Thanks! The grind never ends. I'll be starting in on the sit shortly!
Sick send!! Glad you did not blow the right hand bump up...looks like you would have flown into a different time zone! Props!!!
Thanks! I hadn't considered that ejection potential until now 😳 There's still plenty of opportunity - I'll be a lot more desperate from the low start 💀
The suspense on that move! I thought he was losing it.
Me too! 😅
Great video once again. Since I've read in the comments that you're doing a Q&A series, here are some questions:
1. What is your skincare routine?
2. How do you decide that you're ready for another send go session? Just feeling, or are there some metrics you collect?
3. Do you do an off the wall warm up before jumping in the project? If not, why not?
4. How does your training look like when you're not focused on sending?
If any question isn't clear, let me know!
Awesome, thanks for the questions. Now that youtube has increased the shorts limit to 3 minutes that seems like the perfect format for Q&A. Stay tuned!
Amazing looking line, congrats! Love seeing your process too, it's so unique and methodical
Thanks! I'm not a gifted climber, so I play to my strengths which is optimising. Use the skills we are given.
Love your attitude on there on bad weather days. Even a wet day of climbing is still a day of climbing. Keep crushing man. Edit: didn't realize it would dry out so fast 😂 that wind is gnarly! congrats dude
50km winds straight at the boulder! Luckily I was around back, but it was whipping around. It went from soaking wet to too dry in span of 2 hrs. Attitude on bad weather remains - to hit the primo days gotta be close to the edge.
@@Mobeta Love the mindset on that. Really inspiring.
big nice! good reward to a rough session.
As someone with a terrible memory, I felt that return trip home so hard. Can’t believe it ended with a send!
Honestly this is as fun to watch as Bosi on his projects. Awesome getting to see the process on both great international and local boulders. That line has some very aesthetic movements. Not a straight-forward ladder. Good luck on the sit.
Jen has been harping on me to use a check list. Once again she is right - but don't tell her that 😄
Dude i love these vids!!!
I'm enjoying the hard projecting, I recently started projecting outdoors on the west coast so its cool to see your routine and its getting me inspired to start some hard projects
Awesome, pushing to your personal limit is the most rewarding form of climbing. The west coast is also a challenging climate, so the struggle against elements will be similar.
Good job man.
Huge send, what a fight!
It went! nice
What a fight, congrats! The line looks incredible 👌
Would you mind explaining a bit why you want the holds and the air a little bit humid, and not as dry as possible? Is it only applicable to this specific rock type, or your skin? Or is it a general tactic that I'm not aware of? Thanks!
Thanks! Our granite is extremely friction dependant. In summer when most people climb, yes, the drier the better. Absolute optimal friction between skin and granite occurs in single digit temperatures, but with significant surface moisture. Dry conditions in the cold are almost as brutal as summer humidity. The ambient humidity determines the rock surface moisture. The best skin condition varies by individual, but very cold and slightly damp (but NOT wet or sweaty). The best situation is a 5 degree day with 95% humidity and on the verge of rain. All the optimisation in this video is trying to create that edge when nature won't cooperate (which is 99% of sessions).
@@Mobeta Can you make a video about NS temps, I haven’t really projected at my limit yet outdoors, I just go when it’s not raining
I have plans for a series of Q&A videos from questions people send in and temps is definitely on the list.
How hard do u think it is around
Harder than 8, easier than 12. I can't suggest grades at the moment because I've been on the grind too long. I need to recalibrate.
that was shakespearesk with the serpentines leading up (down) to the pathetic-depressing-climax, and then right after that the wind catches up, rustles in the trees, the picture shakes (=earth is moving), and it is won. BÄM! 🥳 don't get btter audio gear, you don't need anything better. maybe a list what to pack. this must be youtube bot god pleasing content as well.
Thanks so much! There was a certain poetry to this session. I only send a few lines a year, so this was a rare experience. My friend Jen is always saying I need a check list. With so much gear, I often forget something. One day it was boat key after I'd already launched. I agree - get good with the gear you have is my philosophy.
“Maybe a list” 😂
just to be that guy but what did u end grading?
Nah, perfectly legit question. Problem is, I finished my guidebook and hven't done a repeat since spring 2023. Grinding on projects since then so my grading is not calibrated at the moment.
@@Mobeta ok thanks 😊
Congratulations, the grind pays off! I have heard about sticky damp conditions, but I didn't realize damp could be THAT damp. Good to know for winter granite projects 🙏
Thanks! Feels good but the grind never ends - next session is 2 days from now on last seasons unfinished project. And so the grind continues. The lower the temp, the more moisture you want. But the issue is the colder the ambient - the less moisture air can hold and deliver to rock. It's a direct conflict. Visible dampness is ~15%. Optimal is 10 - 12% ish. During dry cold it's common for moisture to be undetectable. Holds will have classic "glassy" feel. Painting holds with water to hit optimal is an art that get better with practice. Meter helps when you're learning, but ultimately it's by practice and feel.
@@Mobeta ^ this comment makes me want to go learn more about tribology.
That's an amazing name for a rock climb!