awesome video! hope you upload more. would be curious to learn what kind of watt hour per sqft of bed youre finding for different tasks like tilling, weeding and other tractor implements
I don't yet have figures on Wh/area but I do know that max torque was limited with the previous controller (50A cont. rating) and this was not adequate for certain tools that put a lot of steel in the ground. Yesterday I replaced the motor controller with a 100A continuous/200A peak model that now provides all the necessary torque. At full speed and 26V pack voltage it must now be capable of delivering a theoretical max of 1.5kW (60 battery A limit by BMS) which is a lot more than the original gas engine (1.5hp I believe). Now it's really quite impressive in terms of torque but I've got a creep at idle and choppy behaviour under no load that I need to resolve. The battery pack is about 1kWh. Made from K2 LFP 26650 cylindrical cells in 8S10P config w/60A Daly BMS
I love the machine. I have a few acres in mind to run it on. Not sure where I would source produce starts this late. I have a feeling it will all get sowed in alfalfa/grasses. Cheers. Great machine.
I just finished restoring the exact same model with a brand new engine and all. The one thing have trouble understanding is when the tractor is in the garage how do you pull it out of the garage backwards? it seems that the wheels get locked when ever I go to pull it backwards, I really appreciate the information.
pulling in reverse the wheels should lock and backdrive the final stage of the drivetrain, being the chain drive up to the jackshaft. This should all spin freely enough to make it possible to muscle the machine backwards a bit. The belt drive from engine to jackshaft should slip freely if disengaged. Still it's no pleasure to maneuver in reverse. Mostly it's designed to turn by pushing forward and pivoting with one wheel going faster than the other
The motor is a low speed PMDC motor from a floor scrubber. A gearmotor could also be used. The low motor speed allows it to simply replace the gas engine and drive the rest of the driveline without further reduction. I changed the first transmission stage from v-belt to roller chain because there's no need to disengage with an electric motor but I'm confident that v-belt would also work
I am building a similar machine, as my 4 wheel converted Sears Suburban just doesn't have the maneuverability for trails. Nice build
awesome video! hope you upload more. would be curious to learn what kind of watt hour per sqft of bed youre finding for different tasks like tilling, weeding and other tractor implements
I don't yet have figures on Wh/area but I do know that max torque was limited with the previous controller (50A cont. rating) and this was not adequate for certain tools that put a lot of steel in the ground.
Yesterday I replaced the motor controller with a 100A continuous/200A peak model that now provides all the necessary torque. At full speed and 26V pack voltage it must now be capable of delivering a theoretical max of 1.5kW (60 battery A limit by BMS) which is a lot more than the original gas engine (1.5hp I believe). Now it's really quite impressive in terms of torque but I've got a creep at idle and choppy behaviour under no load that I need to resolve.
The battery pack is about 1kWh. Made from K2 LFP 26650 cylindrical cells in 8S10P config w/60A Daly BMS
I love the machine. I have a few acres in mind to run it on. Not sure where I would source produce starts this late. I have a feeling it will all get sowed in alfalfa/grasses. Cheers. Great machine.
I just finished restoring the exact same model with a brand new engine and all. The one thing have trouble understanding is when the tractor is in the garage how do you pull it out of the garage backwards? it seems that the wheels get locked when ever I go to pull it backwards, I really appreciate the information.
pulling in reverse the wheels should lock and backdrive the final stage of the drivetrain, being the chain drive up to the jackshaft. This should all spin freely enough to make it possible to muscle the machine backwards a bit. The belt drive from engine to jackshaft should slip freely if disengaged. Still it's no pleasure to maneuver in reverse. Mostly it's designed to turn by pushing forward and pivoting with one wheel going faster than the other
What motor did you use and how did you connect to the transmission?
The motor is a low speed PMDC motor from a floor scrubber. A gearmotor could also be used. The low motor speed allows it to simply replace the gas engine and drive the rest of the driveline without further reduction. I changed the first transmission stage from v-belt to roller chain because there's no need to disengage with an electric motor but I'm confident that v-belt would also work