DIY Heavily Crackled Shou-Sugi-Ban Charred Cedar Planks Burnt Wood Burning
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
- Love Of The Grain Workshop here agin with an all new DIY Shou-Sugi-Ban charred cedar plank video. I used locally sourced NC cedar wood. Thank you for watching, liking, Commenting, sharing & remember to subscribe. Please contact me for a custom order. I design and make one of a kind furniture, art, decor, cutting/charcuterie boards & more. Find me on Facebook, Instagram & Etsy as well.
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The mix I've been using on indoor projects is a blend of olive oil, Danish oil, and bee's wax, heated until the wax is melted wiped on with a cloth and buffed to a nice sheen, great video
Jah Pedro thats awesome. Thanks
Do you know of a good mix for outdoor projects?
@@samberrigan184 same mix without the beeswax ,
Does it leave the stain, scratches?
So I watched ur first video years ago and loved the look so I started doing many of my projects with the technique. Then I researched more n learned that the true Japanese style is called Sakiyugi and involves using the wood as a chimney when burning. Apparently those who know the art well sorta laugh at us westerners calling it Shou Sugi ban. Anyway there’s some great videos on the true style very interesting to check out! Thanks for the great vid!
Yep Yakisugi is what I’ve heard. And yes many have called me out of shosugiban. Lol. I love it and thanks for watching!
I've been testing finishes for a large bed frame and found a good quality generally use epoxy works incredible!
and it gives a very natural look if you do it properly.
put a thick layer of epoxy on, let it soak in for 10-15 minutes (The chard would will absorb a lot) and then wipe off extra with a brush, then dab off extra with a towel, it will give you a very natural and extremely hard and durable finish.
Great idea!
Which epoxy do you use
wow that looks amazing - I'm so excited to try it. Thanks..
Thanks so much.
Thank you sir ....I have found a new love this is wonderful....sorry I am late to the party wow I love it!!!
Awesome job! Love the heavy char. Going to be making a table with this method + a resin river in the middle of the table top. Thanks for sharing!
JJ Fording PourSoulStudios thanks very much! Check out my latest Shou Sugi Ban project with tinted epoxy resin!
That sounds like a cool idea! Please post pictures, would love to see how it turns out!
Heavy char plus epoxy will work and look good.
Awesome tag me on social when you make it!
Thanks a lot for your artistic idea. This is a missing piece of my project that I have been longer looking !
Fantastic! Thanks so much.
I have been looking into Shou-Sugi-Ban as a wood preservation for above ground raised beds for organic gardening. Watching your process is helpful. Thank you. However, staying organic, I would be using just linseed oil. Also, I don’t have access to large quantities of cedar, red wood or black locust, so I will have to use what I can -douglas fir maybe. Thanks for the vid. ❤ It’ll be an experiment.
Douglas fir would definitely work. And I have used it for the same reason in a garden box on my deck and it has withstood a few years so far weather and watering the plants.
Fantastic job, thanks…
Thank you!
That's the way the Japanese ment for it be. I hate when people wire brush off the char and stain or dye it. Good job! I am doing a custom fish tank stand with cedar tounge and groove with the traditional Shou Dugi ban finish.
Thanks very much. You are truly correct. I like the crackle look better. But to each his own.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 only thing it actually called YAKISUGI, Western countries miss translation is SHO SUGI BAN
Pro tip: when applying the poly/oils let brush soak up till full then do one long brush stroke at a time pushing harder down as you get closer to the end for an even layer. This will eliminate visible brush strokes and be a much smoother cleaner look.
Very cool charred finish I’d love to try a heavy char like this on a future project. Very informative! Keep up the good work!!
38psiGoodbye thanks very much! Yeah with the 50/50 mix its pretty thin and doesn’t get any brush strokes. But thats a great tip. Check out my latest shou sugi ban project i just posted
Thanks for an informative video
Absolutely thanks for the kind words
That wood be awesome as wine rack
Absolutely!
Great video. Love doing something different like this. Keep the videos coming.
James Buchanan thanks. I have been delayed in making videos. But really need to get going.
Beautiful, I am excited to try it.
Denise D Rivers alright!!
Very nice. I applied this technique to my beehives.
Awesome!
Excellent stuff bro!! Thanks for sharing your videos!
Denny Daniel thank you
Beautiful technique, I can't wait to play around with it!
Vicky Anderson thanks
Awesome Job Love the Natural Burn all Black , I willHire you to make and enclosure for my Chimney
Thank you for taking the time to make this video... I'm going to do this... The intention I have it to make a heavy looking minimalist wood mantle for a carrerra marble slab fireplace (adding a gorgeous look with texture and weight to that super plain modern but sleek and elegant fireplace.
Familia Hancock awesome! Send me some pics on Instagram or Facebook
Your product is incredibly beautiful finishes.
Thank you so much
Excellent effect. Thanks for posting.
IPAS - Independent Productions and Aviation Services thank you!
Thanks for the video! It is very inspiring. Now I want to do such table myself. Very cool look, I like it 😃
Yana Solare thanks. Have fun
Great job ❤
Thanks
"The video" seems fine to me, but I'm not a film critic.
I'm working with a piece of construction-grade white-wood burned and scraped. Decided to play with the grain and the knots and use a variety of colors with home-made water-based stain and some artist watercolor pencils and topping it with spar varnish.
Pretty awesome so far, if I do say so myself..
The map-gas is a fine idea.
Keep creating.
SecondComingTwice thanks very much! Yeah this is fun and can be done many different ways. Though some people nitpick it due to the wood, the technique and the finishing. I experiment with it. And I use it for decorative purposes so who cares. It’s art as well as function.
STUNNING LOOK BUDDY I STARTED WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS FROM YESTERDAY . AND N HAVE MADE MY SON SOME FURNITURE FOR HIS ROOM USING THIS SHOU SUGI BAN TECHNIQUE, WITHOUT KNOWING THAT THIS WAS AN ANCIENT JAPANESE TECHNIQUE. BUT I AM NOW EVEN MORE PROUDER OF MY HANDICRAFT THAN EVER .KEEP IT UP AND WELL DONE .NEEDLESS TO SAY I HAVE SUBSCRIBE IMMEDIATELY AFTER YOUR YOUR FIRST VIDEO .
MARTIN MATHEE yep been around a long time!
So to brush or not to brush that is the question what do you think?
It depends on the look you want. I like both
i love your attitude... that's a beautiful product. i am so addicted to brushing finishes, sanding down the ridges then staining them (wiping) which creates 3 colors. i think i will try this for an exterior finish. i will look for an update video, but would love to see the results. i live in cold winters. the wood sees alot of wear and tear. Do you consider Pine a reliable siding for cold winters if sugi ban? I've never tried it, only cedar, i heard you mention it in the video.
DIY Shou-sugi-ban Wood Burning Torching Technique on Pine
ruclips.net/video/qfdV031I_F0/видео.html check this video.
As far as pine. Charring it this way works great at protecting wood. But for exterior use cedar is going to hold up much better. And if your using it for siding you would want to leave that heavy alligator char. Removing some of it can expose the fresh wood underneath defeating the purpose of the char which is to add to its longevity.
"I don't like the plastic coating, so now I'm going with a mixture of 50% polyurethane"? Why not pure boiled linseed oil and get rid of the plastic altogether? I'd prefer completely natural, and something that's not foreign to where I'm from.
Why not applying oil while the wood is still hot, as I've seen some do? And finally - how little oil can you get away with applying while still ensuringto protect the integrity of the wood and not risking getting soot stains on whatever comes into contact with it?
By the way, the crackled surface structure that you managed to produce is the best I've seen so far. Well done!
And just to clarify, if it isn't obvious - I have no experience with this area at all. I'm just letting my thoughts out to remedy my ignorance and to satisfy my curiousness :)
Sure you could absolutely use a natural oil like boiled linseed or tongue oil etc. I haven’t tried applying while still hot. Thanks
nice work,thanks.
Thank you
Muito bonito este trabalho. Parabéns!!!👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks
Is the top layer ever became brittle and crumble over time? It looked like fire damage from a burning home but it's only a transformation stop short from turning to charcoal or ash. Amazing! I want to make reddish black planks for my deck and for my facia I'll make it crackle and but a high gloss shine so it would look a bit like obsidian.
Nope so far it hasn’t
Excellent videos, I do have a question for you: When you char only one side how do you prevent the wood from bowing or warping? It doesn't seem to be a problem for you, but it seems like it would be?
Thanks
Char quickly and cool it down quickly. Or burn the other side as well. It won’t be perfect for sure. But for siding or a fence it doesn’t really matter too much if it’s slightly cupped. But slightly only. Some pieces definitely cup more than others as well.
Thank you, this was really helpful. I have a medium-sized project and was wondering if a larger brush-burning torch would be effective and recommended? Or would you say it takes this concentrated flame to create the gator skin look?
Yes absolutely. This is what I would recommend for larger applications.
Love the birdies
Mitch Muerle right!
Good job! We just released a video on this also. Fun fun fun process. We used pine. Little different though. Again great job on the video and process.
Thanks
very cool! I'm about to try something like that as well, but with a epoxy resin finish
That should look fantastic!
I tried the burning once to create a compost bin. I didn't want to use chemical protection because the compost is humus that go to veggies that I eat, that's how I found Shu sugi ban. I used the cheapest abies (fir tree?) planks, they were still green and freshly cut. I could watch them getting attacked by fungus by the day before I got around to burn them and to build the compost bin. So far 3 years and counting the compost bin doesn't rot but the organic material inside does. Always humid and always surrounded by microorganisms the bin stays unaffected. I think it's an outstanding result, and I didn't even oil the wood. But here is my question: when doing it with abies all the nice black burned cracked easily rubbed off. You touch the material and you have black hands. Is the rubbing off of charcoal the part nobody talks about or does it not happen if you use the right wood? In this video you used the cedar that's used by the Japanese, does the black charcoal stay hard and won't come off? (Personally I would not want to use epoxy. The whole appeal of this to me is conservation of wood without chemical goo, it's ecologically sound.) So, does the charred part rub off even with cedar? Have you tried a comparison of different conifers? Cedar might be hard to get hold of where I live. (I read that you have to use conifers with resin as the heating of the resin inside contributes to the effect of conservation). Thanks for this interesting video!
Muppel Muh hey good for you! I have used cedar and various pine wood for this effect. As far as the charr rubbing off. It doesn’t matter which wood. It will all do it. For garden I would use a natural oil to seal it like boiled linseed or tongue. That way you don’t have harmful items in the garden.
I absolutely love the router+jig block! You're great in the video!
Juho Laaksonen thanks very much. But what router jig?
Thinking of doing this alligator style for my exterior steps. In your opinion would the alligator style be less durable then if I wire brushed it first? It seems to me that the chunks of the alligator style would likely to chip off after some usage... I was going to put several coats of spar urethane on no matter what... thanks
Great question for steps. Definitely scrape first.
Beautiful work
Valdemiro Hass thank you
id like it if i wanted black. but that cedar is so nice its almost a sin to hide it. but its a style choice. after its burned will cedar still give off that great aroma?
Bern any side that’s not charred will.
Oh that is Wayyyyy Cool!
Mitch Muerle thanks very much
So my questions are... Do you scrape it if you go full alligator? Of you do a normal burn you're supposed to hit it with a wire or firm nylon brush and then seal it if you like. So with this style do you scrape it? Does it flake off and make a mess if you do this without scrapping? Is it longer lasting to do the alligator vice a more moderate burn?
I'm looking at doing a more normal burning for a log cabin I'm going to build to help weather proof it which is why I ask. I'll probably do this to varying degrees of burn with different stains for appearance on everything from the logs to the deck and floors etc
Kyle Corrales kyle to get a heavy crackled finish you do NOT scrape it. If you do not scrape it, it can rub off if not sealed correctly. Seal with poly or lacquer and lots of coats to protect it.
Love the char. I am remodeling my kitchen and am very interested in doing this for my countertops. How has it held up? Any recommendations for durability and to keep it looking this way (other than heavy epoxy)/. Thanks
It’s still doing well. I had it sitting around my shop getting tossed around etc and still looks good.
You mentioned watering the wood, when, how do you add water to keep from warping? Thanks.
You can wet before or after burning. Or both to really help. I use a garden pump sprayer.
It is a very beautiful idea to teach us to understand the techniques how to make lumbers look different stylés.
Christopher Xiong thanks.
Awesome!!!
ChristDriven thanks very much!
Great work... I have watched a few of your videos and I think that subscriber count is going to explode, keep it up.
I am watching because I am a high end e-cig making hobbyist, moved to stabilized wood from 3D printing, and you are now inspiring me to make a pure wood, original gear :) thank you for showing us your craft and thank you for the tips!
Sure thing! Thanks for the comments. Much appreciated. Definitely keep up the work. Wood is good.
could you do this to a cedar house already built? we had it stained 20 years ago but nothing since. it would be great if it could create fire resistance too
Hmmm! When it’s done for siding it’s burnt prior to adding it to the house. I would recommend against it. Don’t want to burn your home down. Can you take them off and burn then reinstall?
I adore this look and also value the natural wood feel of Danish oil. I’m wondering about doing this on some fir plywood. I want a beautiful, deeply crackled shou sugi panel to hang as an art piece in a high traffic area (nothing too delicate!). If you’ve done any of this on plywood, or think it’s a bad idea, I’d love to know. Wonderful video. Thank you!!
I have tried it on a piece. But it tends to release the glue holding it together.
Hi, is it possible to char the wood already fixed as a wall? It’s a pine cladding if a small cabin.
Without burning the house down …
Absolutely NOT! It is most likely sealed with a finish that is toxic and flammable. Do not! It needs to be removed, planed down and then burned before reinstalling.
I bet if you made a solid cedar table like this but with a two-part epoxy coat it would really POP really nice but I honestly didn't think that it would turn out as good as it did great job
Yes!!!! Thanks so much!
After having coated a chared piece if wood with boiled linseed oil, and letting that dry, Is it then possible to apply a thick layer of 2 component polyurethane on top? Will the PU bind to the dried inseed oil?
Absolutely as long as the linseed is completely cured.
I would love to do this to our backyard fence. Would a fence do well with this technique? If so, Would you use the same poly and linseed oil to seal it?
Hey! That’s it’s original purpose along with siding. Yes you would use a natural oil based finish or even an exterior spar urethane like Helmans spar.
I've just performed this with my cedar cladding for my deck railing posts. I haven't put any sealers on it, and I would prefer the natural oils as well. My question, will it leave a stain if someone rubs agains the charred boards after I've applied a couple couples of sealant on the charred wood?
Sorry for the late reply. I would definitely seal it with a natural oil like boiled linseed or tongue oil. It will penetrate and harden. At least 4 coats or more to prevent the charr rubbing off. And it will need to be re-applied over time.
I’m considering doing this for a bar top. I love the idea of being able to feel the crackle, yet would want it water resistant. Would the technic you used work?
What are your ideas?
joshua foster to make it water proof. I would pour a couple flood coats of epoxy resin over top.
It's naturally water resistant. Part of the reason for the wood being this way.
I have done this and used my restorer to take off most of the crackle it leaves a beautiful charred finish without the crackle. I think that is what you would have to do to use this as a bar top unless you are completely covering it with a thick coat of epoxy. In my opinion the crackle WILL flake and chip off with this 50/50 mixture of finishing. I would like to see this "table" he is creating after a years worth or use. Remember this has to stand up to USE! I don't think the crackle though beautiful will stay in place.
I’ve been doing a bunch of experiments with it, but on pine only so far. I like the colored stuff, but it’s all personal preference. That just looks like a piece of burned wood to me, but that’s the good part about this process, we can all burn to taste.
Absolutely my latest video shows the different charrs.
First of all; great and really helpful video.
I got a question about the long-term success of the finish.
Would you recommend doing it this way or have you encountered something better since the making of the video?
I'm planning on doing a similar finish on a guiitar body and currently researching on how to best seal in the wood after heavily charring it.
For the heavy crackle this worked wonders. You could also use Minwax Polycrylic or epoxy resin. All would lst
Great looking piece. Am wanting to do this as planking on a shed. Would this be okay for an exterior placement, and what would be an appropriate finish for a less shiny, more matte appearance. Thanks.
Sorry for the late reply! Absolutely yes. This is what the technique was originally used for. For a less glossy finish use an exterior water based polyurethane that has a satin or matte finish to it. Please check out my latest Shousugiban vid. I have a lot more tips and tricks as well as tools that are a must have for a job like that.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thanks appreciate you following up, will watch the suggested vid. Good timing will be doing this in the next two months. Thanks.
So I have a farm house that burned beyond what we wanted to repair. There's tons of beautiful black (burned) wood there. It has an alligatored look to it. And is still very solid. Could I just cover it with polyurethane. And use the wood to make furniture, tables or decor with?
Absolutely! So sorry about the fire!
Have you tried this deep char technique on regular pine boards? Also, if this was done on a couch would the char rub off when people touched it?
Great question. I have done it on southern yellow pine which looks fantastic. Check out the other videos I have listed. Both using pine! Yes depending on how much char it will most likely flake off over time. I would recommend for furniture a light charr with a few coats of water based polyurethane over top to help stabilize and seal it. Or depending on the piece and how it’s made a coat of epoxy resin would work better. I also have a video on that.
Beautiful. Couldn't really see what kind of table you used but It reminded me of an old singer sewing machine wrought iron set of legs. I just happen to have a set of leggs in the garage somewhere...that's going on the list. Right now I am trying to make a bit of a boardwalk through the garden. I wonder if I can leave the gator look or will it flake off too easily? I did hit some of my practice pcs with a broom and that worked ok. I was trying to avoid having to use the wire brush as I will be doing so much of it. If the sealer helps it to harden would it be super expensive? I was planning to use oil, living on a budget these days. K thanks for all your vid's. I am learning a lot. and yes kind of hard but it's going to be so cool. PS I do not really do carpentry, I'm just a chick that likes to do cool things. thanks, Kim
Kim Wal that’s awesome! Go for it! As far as the heavy gator look. Yes i would say that it might be a little fragile to walk on. I would recommend do the heavy crackle but them use a brush to wipe off loose bits.
If I have some pine tongue and groove, some of which I’ve already stained and applied poly to, could I apply this method? Or is it too late? I’ve also got a few boards that are warped, but not stained. Could I spray with water and try this technique? All of my boards were also all sanded, as I was going to stain and poly all of them for a wall application. Thank you for any advice!
Unfortunately I would think it needs to be clean wood prior. Poly would affect how it comes out. Probably wouldn’t hurt to try.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 okay, thank you! I still might sand those with poly, then try to burn. Nothing to lose!
You rock man!!!!. Thank you!!!.
Thanks
beautiful work, brother
Blotted thanks
I really Loved it, If i use a tradicional pine wood, can I get a similar result with that kind of cracks?
Absolutely! Sorry for the very late reply
I'm new to this burning technique but I really love it. I like the look of the wood when it's burned and then scrapped ... has all the peaks and valleys look. But I also like the complete chard look. I'm in the process of trying to have the best of both worlds .... Char it, scrape it. Then char again. I've never seen this done ... maybe because it doesn't work. lol
Have you ever tried this or seen this technique before?
Awesome video btw. I loved the slow motion charing. Very satisfying to watch. 👍
bymitten1 thanks very much for the comments and questions! As far as brushing then burning heavily again. You can. But typically when charred heavily the wood bubbles and raises. Which creates the heavy textured crack. So it might not work. But if not you can always sand and redo. I would say if you brush it. Char it just until you see the begging of crackle then stop. That way the embossed lines don’t change to much.
I've done the double burn before and it turned out great on redwood. Deep alligator burn, scrub off char, then deep alligator burn again, scrub off and rinse. This leaves deep grooves in the wood as the softwood between the rings burns away. Creates a great texture. 'Peaks and valleys' look is right!
Very cool! Thanks for the tips. :)
I tried a double-burn on a sample piece of pine I had. Didn't have any added effect except the piece was considerably thinner after. I'm sure all woods have their own effect.
That was awesome good job
Thanks
WAIT OK so great video, but so like how do I make the cliffs and valleys more apparent. I'm imagining the thing covered in epoxy and when you look close it's a whole new charcoal world
You would have to see my other videos about scrubbing the piece. If you want the crackle to show more prominent you would brush coat the resin rather than pour.
If I not wrong burning just the side of the stud facing outside of the wall, rigth?
Juan Paredes yes and no! If using as fencing you would want to burn all the way around. For siding, just the outside needs to be charred.
I love your work, I have a question, at home I have two 9 foot tall wood pivot doors. The climate where I live changes drasticly, so the wood on the doors has cracked. I was thinking of using the blow torch. Would this help with the wood from cracking even more?
Rodrigo Mattos actually once cracked. The burning can cause the crack to widen. If you do it prior to cracking yes it will help prevent it. But it’s not perfect.
every other video that I've watched about this tells me to brush the wood after the burning even for a deep burn but I didn't see you doing it, is it just personal preference, is it because everyone is trying to achieve a different look?
For a heavy char like this one. The wood is very fragile. That alligator like texture are bubbles essentially in the wood. Brushing it can damage them ruining the effect. If you are using the piece for a fence or siding. Brushing is fine. Though I would prefer to spray the finish on the preserve the look. That is the traditional way. But like this piece if you’re using it for decoration. Pour or spraying on the finish works best to preserve that texture.
great work!! QUESTION: during usage, wont be your hand/arm/clothes/etc black by touching it? so the soot of burned woods are not there anymore after oiling?
Yes it can if you do not correctly coat it with the right mixture. I brush on probably around 5-6 very heavy coats so it could absorb into the wood. Let it cure and then reapplied a few more after that. That way it sealed the pores first. And then sealed over top of the wood as well so it didn’t rub off. Extreme pressure from dropping something might have damaged it but not normal use.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 I built some western red cedar deck chairs and I'm wondering with the right finish if this technique will work so that people can actually sit in the chairs. Thanks for the video!
when are you spraying water? are you spraying on unburned wood or on the char during the burning?
You can do both to help prevent warping
If you were doing this for outside siding, do you need to only use cedar?
Chris Richter cedar is the traditional wood used due to its already weather resistant property. But it’s not necessarily required. It will last longer with cedar. And I have found that cedar gives the best crackle look.
I'm in process of doing this for my cedar plank siding. I sealed with teak oil. However i noticed I'm still getting a lot of char residue on hands while handling the boards. Going to do another coat tonight. Should that solve my problem or is there something else you can recommend? Thanks
You will definitely need a lot of coats to prevent that.
Hey thanks I was wondering how people make heavily burnt wood. I just wonder how much it stains your hands (or does it? ) after you treated the wood
If you seal it correctly it shouldn’t stain anything. I would recommend burning and scrubbing with a wire brush like one of my other videos shows to prevent rubbing off if using for seating. But this one will last a long time.
I used the sam technique on my board and batten on my house out of red rough cut pin boards it's been 2 years now and it's totally faded is there any natural sealer I can use to stop further fading thank you
Boiled linseed oil or tongue oil.
@Love Of The Grain Workshop thank you I'll give it a try great content keep it coming 👍
This is it!
Tony McQueen thank you very much
Nice work. You said to make sure to spray the wood with water. Do you mean to just keep the flames down or do you spray it before or after your finished bunring?
garrisjr yes just to keep the flames down and to prevent it from still burning further than wanted.
How durable is the crackle once it’s sealed? Could it be used as decking or would it just dust away?
Not for standing walking on. But for railings & posts it would be fine.
Wow!
Thanks
hello, thanks for this video, I love the finish rendering, but I can't quite figure out what exactly are the products used to protect the cracks. Thank you for your reply ! I am non-English speaking French 😅
On this one it is a danish oil. Just a combination of linseed or tongue oil and polyurethane.
Is it strong finish, is it durable or easy to damage/scratch? Would like the review of finish product
Very durable finish when applied according to the directions.
Hi there, i would like to make a Shou Sugi Ban cutting board like these boards, how would you finish them, or wouldn´t you treat them at all in the end? Thank you for your inspirations.
Josef Keilhammer thanks for the question. While a board with treatment would look fantastic. It definitely wouldn’t work. This technique makes the surface of the wood soft and very easy to cut. The crackle especially would just flake when cut on. It’s meant for protection & looks not for use.
Thx for the answer, i just saw a guy on a Channel who uses burnt boards as cutting boards, that is why i was asking
Maybe I misunderstood, but did you say you were using Danish Oil, which is a combination of Polyurethane and Boiled Linseed oil, or that you made a mixture of Polyurethane and Boiled Linseed oil that you are comparing to Danish Oil? Also how exactly is water used to prevent warping? Do you mist the board after you char it, or do you give it a light coat of mist beforehand?
I mixed the two myself which is similar to danish oil. Spraying before and after can help prevent warping. Charing both sides can also help.
Hi, regarding the resin. I'm Swedish and not really sure to find the same product, is it standard epoxy mixed with boiled linseed?
1:1 mix of polyurethane and boiled linseed oil.
I am planning on doing this for our kitchen open shelves. Did you find the Danish Oil to be the best sealant, without looking plastic-y (like epoxy)? I want the least amount of transfer possible. Preferably no transfer whatsoever. Thanks!
OneStopJosh yes I liked the way the Danish oil looked and felt after the full cure without any transfer. Try a wipe on poly as well. Both work good. Wipe on poly can be recovered multiple times in a day.
Hi there! Amazing video! I was planning to make a new gate but I didn't have inspiration on what kind of material to use, until I saw your video. Therefore I'm reaching out for a couple of questions for someone unexperienced as me:
1) Can I use it with pine wood please?
2) After I get the wood charred, do I need to brush off the charred pieces?
3) Will this technique weather proof the wood if I intend to use it outside? I am from Mauritius 🇲🇺 and it is a tropical island. In summer we get loads of rain. Sometimes cyclones.
4) According to you, which dealer sealer will work best for my project please?
Hyperion
1.yes pine works as well. Check my other videos for the one I did with pine.
2. You can depends on the finished look you want if you do it will remove the crackle and leave a smoother finish.
3. Yes that is one of the best things to use this for. Water, insects, fire, mildew and more.
4. Sealing with an oil based wipe on finish is best.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 oh man! Thanks so much for replying! I'm planning NOT to remove the charred pieces. I love the reptilian texture it has. It adds a lot of character and it almost look "designer".
But I'm gonna seal it with polyurethane. Do you think it's ok? If yes, how many passes of this sealant should I do to stop the soot from flaking off if ever it happens in time?
I've checked your other video you made! I like it a lot! It gives an elegant "espresso" finish to it which looks cool for an interior project I have!
Thanks again for sharing your tips with me.
Nice but I quench with copious amounts of cold water. 40 F or colder is best. Garden hose works. Snow melt ideal.
Absolutely!
Hello love the channel, I’m wonder how well this process would do on fresh cut log wood which has not been in a kiln? Thoughts
It might bow or twist or split if there green (aka freshly cut) if air dried for at minimum a year or so they should be much less likely to do that.
Hiya, my home burnt down and I have a LOT of heavily charred still semi-decent planks.
I'm thinking of using them for the outside of the rebuild?
Absolutely! Go for it. Great sentimental repurpose!
So what exactly did you use as a finish? You said it was Danish oil, but aslo that it was a mixture. So is it just Danish oil or did you make a mixture? Cheers!
I made a sort of danish oil by combining Tung Oil & Poly. I believe. Though it’s been a while since
I would like to do beside tables with this finish, but I don't want to have to re-finish thew wood in order to prevent it from flaking off after a year or two. Will your 3:1 mixture of linseed/tounge oil and polyurethane be suitable to seal the wood and charred bits forever? Like other commentors, I don't want soot breaking off.
Thanks!
No unfortunately. You would need to seal with a finish that could build on the surface. So a water based Polycrylic by minwax or similar. Or epoxy resin.
I thought the reason to burn it would make it water and bug proof? Am I wrong? I want to use some old planks from a deck to use as the skirt sondo I need a sealer?
Ridik that’s correct. The sealer is an added protection.
will this work well with birch plywood? secondly, does it change the thickness/dimensions of the wood? lastly, i’m thinking about doing this for a bed, do you think it’ll stay strong enough if i use birch plywood and only burn the top surface to this extent? and if i apply appropriate enough amount of sealant, will there be any rub off into my mattress/sheets?
sorry for so many questions lol
Murtaza I wouldn’t try it on plywood. It can and will melt the adhesives. It will change the thickness of the wood by a fraction. Yes if not sealed it will definitely rub off on the sheets
Hi, i want to make a board for food (not to cut on it just to put the food on for presentation) and i want to make a board with deep char. So i need your advice, which coat i should use? I want to make a border strong enought to keep texture of chara nd of course it must be natural. I would be very thankful for advice.
Taras Ivantsio man that’s tough. Any sealer you use to hold charr in place is not natural. Food grade oil like mineral oil is what I use on serving boards. But that does not harden. I would suggest doing a nice flood coat of epoxy resin. Clear table top type. I recommend Incredible Solutions brand. It is easy 1:1 mix and is a great price. It will harden and seal it perfectly and then you can serve food on it. But do not cut on it.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thanks for very quick answer! I will do as you wrote, but last question, after burning wood till deep char, do i need to clean it in some way? or just wait until it become cold and use epoxy?
Taras Ivantsio nope. Just let it cool and pour the epoxy
Awesome. Is there a way to get less shine, more of a matte finish?
Barnaby Rich use a finish that is satin or matte. The one I sed was gloss.
Hi
Great video. I was not actually interested in doing this technique, but how to fix my accidental fire damage (on pine wood, I think) in my sauna, which looks exactly like this Shou-Sugi-Ban. Having used Degrease All to remove the oil and to clean it (not sure if I should have done that), I just wondered how I might seal the wood, as I do like the effect. My question is, would Danish Oil / Linseed Oil be heat resistant and steam resistant so I can use it in my sauna? I like my sauna very hot, sometimes topping over 100 degrees Celsius. I also have a steam generator in my sauna too. Any thoughts would be appreciated on how I can create a reliable seal on the interior of my crackled wooden sauna when I get the chance to use it again.
Thanks in advance
Mish Mahoney hey! Thanks for the question don’t know ton about saunas. But from research northern lights sauna sealer is the way to go!! Linked it below. www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWHHXOW/?ref=exp_love_of_the_grain_workshop_dp_vv_mw
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Wow, thank you so much for the super quick response. Great. I shall invest in this. You're a star. Thanks again. :-)
Mish Mahoney anytime. Feel free to ask anytime