For anyone reading and considering this job, first believe in yourself and don't listen or allow the cancerous posts to take over your thoughts. After recently installing a 200A socket meter with a 200A outdoor breaker box along with an indoor 200A circuit breaker box I have a few tips and I am not a licensed contractor: 0. Apply for a permit and contact your inspector prior to doing the job and after you have a precise idea of everything you are doing as every single person that you are in contact with will tell you something differently but the only thoughts that matter are the inspectors. (in fact what i tell you on here will be different than what your local inspector will probably say, I err on the side of being overly cautious when it comes to wire size and grounding though). 0A. Contact the power company and schedule a time to have your power shut off so that you have plenty of time to get the job finished prior to the inspector showing up (might need multiple days or make sure to do everything you can while the power is still on.. it's not an easy job) 1. Install a 200A socket meter with a lever bypass 2. If you have an outdoor pole then you are responsible for the wires going to the top of the pole along with the conduit (most likely 2" schedule 40). Use 4/0 Al or 3/0 Cu for 200A service (most likely 2 Al for 100A) 3. If you are connecting to the top of the socket meter use a rubber O-ring and glue on the socket meter adapter to make sure it doesn't leak water. 4. When connecting to the bottom or side of the socket meter connect it so that the male adapter piece goes into the box, fasten it with a metal conduit nut, then put a plastic insulating nut on top. 5. If you have an outdoor box then run 4 cables (4/0 4/0 4/0 2/0 for hot, hot, neutral and ground) through schedule 80 conduit underground at least 18" and place an expansive coupler between the earth and where the conduit goes into the house. You can dig the hole yourself but make sure to call 811 first or whatever provider comes out to mark your ground where things need to be dug. Do this prior to pounding in ground rods. 6. Connect the conduit to the indoor electrical panel box using the same methods as the socket meter. 7. Pound 2 5/8" ground rods 8' into the earth.. 1 rod is close to the outdoor circuit breaker box and the other is at least 6' away from the first rod and run #4 copper wire from 1 rod, to the other rod and to the outdoor circuit breaker box. 8. jumper your hot and cold water pipes together and run a #4 copper wire to your indoor electrical box. If you have a metal frame on your house or natural gas lines then run them to the indoor electrical box or jumper them. random tips: *Buy cable lube for your cables just in case you find it very difficult to pus the wires through. Usually you want to push the cables through the conduit then glue it together.. there's no way you will get cable through a long run of conduit especially if it has 90 degree bends. *Use antioxident on all your aluminum to lug connections *Place duct seal on the inside electrical box where the conduit from outside comes in, as you don't want cold air to come intot he panel box and create condensation. *Connect your neutral and ground together only in the outdoor circuit breaker box Feel free to send a message, again im not licensed and the job i did was in minnesota where the socket meter was installed on a pole about 10' away from the house.
Makes sense and all. when I called my county to get in touch with who the inspector will be. Answer she gave me was " You need to ask those questions to an electrician."
I have a question for you on the 4/0 4/0 4/0 2/0 six one four three seven four three eight eight four if you see this. Going to run 150 feet 350Kcmil would like to dig the trench and run the the conduit and cable myself to save some money. Will pay an electrician to terminate the ends and upgrade my 200 t 0 400 in parallel as well as adding 2nd 200 amp panel.
Just one thing that I noticed actually three things, I did not see a a plastic bushing on that connector and torquing that lug and ground rods install or the actually ground in the main....or maybe i did not see that.
folks who talk about shorting out the conductors: watch at 0:35. You'll notice two feeder conductors clacking against each other as they slide the box over them. Nothing happens. The conductors aren't live.
It was well lit, and well edited up til the end where you failed to show any part of what makes bringing electricity out from the supply authority and into the magic boxes for consumer consumption possible. MOUNT A BOX AND MAGIC HAPPENS. 1/10.
Wtf.. where are your grounds?! And why does the utility company do the service connection?!? Which hill Billy state is this? I'm an electrician in nj and that shit here is no joke. Before you even start a job you have to meet with the utility company inspector which in my area is pse&g and go over the scope of work. You run the utility/service cable and wire the meterpack/ meter pan yourself. They only connection they make is the point of attachment coming from the street pole. Not to mention you don't have a #6 ground with a Kenney clamp in the meter pack with 2 8ft ground robs and a #4 ground with a Kenney clamp coming from the water main pipe. They you get a town inspection and a utility inspection and connection. And if anything is off they can be assholes and make you do everything all over which can be a big fucking nightmare
In America, we use a PEN system, the electric company only provides a neutral and two hots, the ground and neutral are bonded in the main panel, and then we also use ground stakes (2 minimum) to bond the local earth to the neutral leg (Same as PME in Europe) and clamps to bond the neutral to water/gas pipes and metalwork.
TN-C-S / PME is what the rest of the world calls it. (DNO provides combined earth and neutral and then we earth it again in multiple places at the installation). Only I think gas stations, marinas, and other special use cases use TT/independent earthing.
Y'all said it was a good job?? He forgot bushings on connectors. Anything over 1" needs bushings. Didn't see him use deox for his aluminum wiring. Where is his bonding?? Plus, inside panel is now the sub n needs to float the neutral. At the meter base, he needs to cover the opening if it does rain completely instead of just an plastic bag. Before city hooks up power, they'll need to see inspection report first. Just my 2 cents
+Past Master Inspector would fail you in these parts for not installing those plastic rings on the threaded ends. No inspected tag no meter either! Electric company won't work it without being inspected here!
Are the boxes that protect the wire and components inside it rain proof? What would happen if a bunch of water got inside of the box and soaked the electrical parts?
Typically not much besides corrosion and lost energy. Higher voltages will just vaporize the water the instant the water bridges out any of the legs, and lower voltages will just sit there and dissipate wasted energy until the water evaporates, or breaks down from electrolysis (at which point the oxygen will corrode certain types of materials). The entire box is metal and presumably well-grounded (via multiple earthing points on both sides of the meter) so it would be unlikely for any stray current to be detected by anyone outside the box (even if they were touching it). Most higher voltage power lines are bare conductors with no insulation and that equipment does fine.
Why do you paint in such a strange order? First 15cm here then 15 there and a little bit more over there until everything is white..? Why not just start in a corner and do it systematicly? And that bag is not going to keep water from going down that pipe. But it may help against corrosion.
@@dickcheesewiz If your network operator refuses to isolate it for you, that means you haven't yet blown enough of the fuses on their end of the line :)
Doing my own as owner /contractor in Florida. Got a code book and went to it. Saved 7 grand on a job a teenager could do. Encourage anyone who wants to save thousands on jobs anyone with any minor skills to do their own. It's 4 wires. Get over it. I wouldn't mind if it was 20-30$ an hour but 90$ hr is surgeon money. I'm not paying that for easy work.
+agaveman I've met tons of cheap guys like you who ended up spending double to fix their electrical problems. Plumbers and HVAC guys with 50+ years of experience in their field doesn't make them an alright electrician lol.
Guy Robby I have yet so see an HVAC guy do actual electrical work better than an Electrician. I`ve known from experience, i`ve had to help HVAC guys connect wires and figure out circuits not to mention, bend EMT pipes for them.
Must be different where you are, I worked as a ticketed sparky for 10 years in mostly commercial, some industrial and about 6 months of Resi so I have spent time around a lot of electricians and now that I've been in the HVAC/R industry for 6 years I can honestly say that I have yet to meet an electrician who can outsmart an HVAC Tech on control circuitry. I'll admit my HVAC co workers can't bend pipe, but honestly big deal, a 2nd level electrician can do that efficiently. I guess that's why they pay Hvac guys the big bucks though ;)
That looks like a Murray brand meter base. They are owned by Siemens. You should be able to find these on homedepot website or at a local Siemens distributor. www.homedepot.com/p/Murray-200-Amp-4-Space-6-Circuit-Combination-Meter-Main-JC0406L1200H/202315545?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-D27E-Electrical|&gclid=CMymsKPx2NECFYY8gQod4P0MQQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
Nice visualization of how to remove a box and screw another one in it place(Even Though you skipped part of that too)...... WHERE's THE BEEF?? You left out about 95% of the actual work. I have never seen an electric co. that will mount your service side lugs for you..... maybe its different in your part of the world.....
Gee, Here in New York we, as a home owner can & are able to do your own work legally, most people that do this are not rich & cannot afford a $90 an hour electrician to do the simple basic operations needed to get this right & pass inspection. I have a friend that is a retired electrician & he went step by step with me doing a hands on setup of the 220 box & sub panel shut off 12" away so I could save myself some bucks & still have it done by code & safely too.. The dweebs here that try to tell you that you cannot do it yourself are just po'ed that the state lets anyone that owns their own home, do the work of someone that is licensed to do that type of work & can rip you off big time by quoting that whatever they are doing is by the CODE book even when it is NOT even IN the code book, but sometimes it should be because it might be relevant to being a safety factor anyway.. So what you can do legally gives you more confidence & is able to keep you from spending way too much money, so you save something for later & will let you thumb your nose at the dweebs that look at cha like you are stealing their money from them because you are not using THEM to do the job at hand.. So, after I was all finished installing everything the way that Roger told me to do it, I called the Inspector out & he looked it all over & then told me that Roger was a very good teacher & that my project had passed with flying colours also, he knew most of the licensed electricians in the area & each one had something that they did that set them apart from each other & he knew what Roger's trick was & saw it in my wiring job, he then praised me on a good job & said that he wished that more homeowners would take it upon themselves to know how to do everything around their houses so they could enjoy life & not go broke having to hire someone that is gonna rip ya off when they start quoting the code book & then add some codes that are not written in said book so, they can add more money & time to a job even when it is not needed anyway.. My buddy had a new house built & before he could live in it, he had to have the towns ZEO (zoning enforcement officer) come & inspect it for a Certificate of occupancy meaning it was safe to live in.. & his ZEO walked down a hall way & pointed out to him that he needed an additional smoke detector 6 feet up from the floor & in the middle of the length of hallway, Bill said that he didn't see that in the code book & that he already had 4 smoke alarms in the house anyway But, that dickwad was persistent & Bill went into the bathroom closet, picked up a smoke detector out of his never ending supply of things you might need at any given moment & he attached it to the wall using sticky backed Velcro in that location that dickwad suggested, This got dickwad really pissed off & he was disgusted & quickly signed the scribbled signature on the C of O & left the house in a huff.. Dickwad was back a few minutes later asking if Bill could take him down to the street because the driveway was not quite finished yet & had a river of mud & stones going the complete length of it & being that the builder had brought him up to the house which was 3100 feet from the highway, he left his car at the street & now had to walk down the muddy driveway .. Bill told him that he didn't ever read THAT requirement in any code book & handed him a newspaper to spread over his head so he wouldn't get to soaking wet while walking down the driveway to his car.. I was there & started laughing the minute he started ringing the doorbell, as I knew what his problem was right then & there.. Had he NOT insisted on doing the smoke alarm, in THAT specific spot, dickwad might not have gotten Pneumonia while walking the 1/2 mile down he driveway during the massive cloudburst that day... I also like reading the comments on stupid stuff like THIS video that wasn't all that bad but, I sure didn't care to be looking at the back of his T-Shirt when he was covering up what he was doing & why the hell did he feed out 10 feet of wire thru the hole in the building just so he could strip off the casing & then cut off all but 2 feet of it, Did he even use that 8 feet of wire he cut off OR maybe he stripped off all of the casing & took the copper back to he scrapyard to he got some $$$ for it? LOLOLOL
For anyone reading and considering this job, first believe in yourself and don't listen or allow the cancerous posts to take over your thoughts. After recently installing a 200A socket meter with a 200A outdoor breaker box along with an indoor 200A circuit breaker box I have a few tips and I am not a licensed contractor:
0. Apply for a permit and contact your inspector prior to doing the job and after you have a precise idea of everything you are doing as every single person that you are in contact with will tell you something differently but the only thoughts that matter are the inspectors. (in fact what i tell you on here will be different than what your local inspector will probably say, I err on the side of being overly cautious when it comes to wire size and grounding though).
0A. Contact the power company and schedule a time to have your power shut off so that you have plenty of time to get the job finished prior to the inspector showing up (might need multiple days or make sure to do everything you can while the power is still on.. it's not an easy job)
1. Install a 200A socket meter with a lever bypass
2. If you have an outdoor pole then you are responsible for the wires going to the top of the pole along with the conduit (most likely 2" schedule 40). Use 4/0 Al or 3/0 Cu for 200A service (most likely 2 Al for 100A)
3. If you are connecting to the top of the socket meter use a rubber O-ring and glue on the socket meter adapter to make sure it doesn't leak water.
4. When connecting to the bottom or side of the socket meter connect it so that the male adapter piece goes into the box, fasten it with a metal conduit nut, then put a plastic insulating nut on top.
5. If you have an outdoor box then run 4 cables (4/0 4/0 4/0 2/0 for hot, hot, neutral and ground) through schedule 80 conduit underground at least 18" and place an expansive coupler between the earth and where the conduit goes into the house. You can dig the hole yourself but make sure to call 811 first or whatever provider comes out to mark your ground where things need to be dug. Do this prior to pounding in ground rods.
6. Connect the conduit to the indoor electrical panel box using the same methods as the socket meter.
7. Pound 2 5/8" ground rods 8' into the earth.. 1 rod is close to the outdoor circuit breaker box and the other is at least 6' away from the first rod and run #4 copper wire from 1 rod, to the other rod and to the outdoor circuit breaker box.
8. jumper your hot and cold water pipes together and run a #4 copper wire to your indoor electrical box. If you have a metal frame on your house or natural gas lines then run them to the indoor electrical box or jumper them.
random tips:
*Buy cable lube for your cables just in case you find it very difficult to pus the wires through. Usually you want to push the cables through the conduit then glue it together.. there's no way you will get cable through a long run of conduit especially if it has 90 degree bends.
*Use antioxident on all your aluminum to lug connections
*Place duct seal on the inside electrical box where the conduit from outside comes in, as you don't want cold air to come intot he panel box and create condensation.
*Connect your neutral and ground together only in the outdoor circuit breaker box
Feel free to send a message, again im not licensed and the job i did was in minnesota where the socket meter was installed on a pole about 10' away from the house.
I have a question for you I know this thread is a few years old but If by any chance you get this message please message me back thank you
Makes sense and all. when I called my county to get in touch with who the inspector will be. Answer she gave me was " You need to ask those questions to an electrician."
I pull wire and cable through conduit that is complete all the time because the code says it has to be complete in order to install the conductors.
I have a question for you on the 4/0 4/0 4/0 2/0 six one four three seven four three eight eight four if you see this. Going to run 150 feet 350Kcmil would like to dig the trench and run the the conduit and cable myself to save some money. Will pay an electrician to terminate the ends and upgrade my 200 t 0 400 in parallel as well as adding 2nd 200 amp panel.
Why isn’t the neutral taped
you forgot your bushings required for 4 awg and larger conductors.
just wanted to see how you go about landing that neutral that sucker can be a pain sometimes
#4 bare ground wire?
What keeps water running down the wall from reaching into the box?
nice work. keep up the good work. learning something new from this channel.
What zise wire is that coming in to the box?
Just one thing that I noticed actually three things, I did not see a a plastic bushing on that connector and torquing that lug and ground rods install or the actually ground in the main....or maybe i did not see that.
What brand did you install? It looks like a good meter socket and main breaker combo.
What brand is my question too. That will prevent a separate shut off box install. THAT SHOULD BE THE STANDARD.
folks who talk about shorting out the conductors: watch at 0:35. You'll notice two feeder conductors clacking against each other as they slide the box over them. Nothing happens.
The conductors aren't live.
yeah, the DIYer is in for one hell of a surprise when he finds out he has to call his Electric company to get them shut down first.
Did you place the bare wire & the neutral wire under the same lug?
It was well lit, and well edited up til the end where you failed to show any part of what makes bringing electricity out from the supply authority and into the magic boxes for consumer consumption possible. MOUNT A BOX AND MAGIC HAPPENS. 1/10.
THE VERY REASON I GIVE HIM HIS 292nd. DISLIKE.
Excellent, thank you!
Can someone tell me how much this would cost to do?
How many amps is this service?
Good job 👍👍👍
Wtf.. where are your grounds?! And why does the utility company do the service connection?!? Which hill Billy state is this? I'm an electrician in nj and that shit here is no joke. Before you even start a job you have to meet with the utility company inspector which in my area is pse&g and go over the scope of work. You run the utility/service cable and wire the meterpack/ meter pan yourself. They only connection they make is the point of attachment coming from the street pole. Not to mention you don't have a #6 ground with a Kenney clamp in the meter pack with 2 8ft ground robs and a #4 ground with a Kenney clamp coming from the water main pipe. They you get a town inspection and a utility inspection and connection. And if anything is off they can be assholes and make you do everything all over which can be a big fucking nightmare
.The main ground wire giving you by the electric company or place it you on the ground? And what is the gauge of the main supply power cable?
In America, we use a PEN system, the electric company only provides a neutral and two hots, the ground and neutral are bonded in the main panel, and then we also use ground stakes (2 minimum) to bond the local earth to the neutral leg (Same as PME in Europe) and clamps to bond the neutral to water/gas pipes and metalwork.
@@NillKitty Thank you.
Is it legal in California to add a meter after the breaker that's comes from the main breaker meter?
Required in 2020 NEC code 230.85 “Emergency Disconnects “ Allows fire department or others to shut of power without going inside the structure.
What size amperage panel and wire?
is that hammer full auto?
can you tell me what kind of ground sistem do you use most in the united states?
Ulfer is the best.... but minimum of 2 eight foot ground rods.
TN-C-S / PME is what the rest of the world calls it. (DNO provides combined earth and neutral and then we earth it again in multiple places at the installation). Only I think gas stations, marinas, and other special use cases use TT/independent earthing.
Y'all said it was a good job?? He forgot bushings on connectors. Anything over 1" needs bushings. Didn't see him use deox for his aluminum wiring. Where is his bonding?? Plus, inside panel is now the sub n needs to float the neutral. At the meter base, he needs to cover the opening if it does rain completely instead of just an plastic bag. Before city hooks up power, they'll need to see inspection report first. Just my 2 cents
🤔no plastic bushings?
+Past Master Inspector would fail you in these parts for not installing those plastic rings on the threaded ends. No inspected tag no meter either! Electric company won't work it without being inspected here!
+Troy Brownrigg where's the ground 1/4" solid wire and copper rod?
Traveler water painting examples
i was gonna say lol
nice job
Are the boxes that protect the wire and components inside it rain proof? What would happen if a bunch of water got inside of the box and soaked the electrical parts?
It could short out and start a fire or electrocute someone if touching the metal meter box.
Mines been standing in the middle of a field on a post for 15 years now and that's not an issue.
Typically not much besides corrosion and lost energy. Higher voltages will just vaporize the water the instant the water bridges out any of the legs, and lower voltages will just sit there and dissipate wasted energy until the water evaporates, or breaks down from electrolysis (at which point the oxygen will corrode certain types of materials). The entire box is metal and presumably well-grounded (via multiple earthing points on both sides of the meter) so it would be unlikely for any stray current to be detected by anyone outside the box (even if they were touching it). Most higher voltage power lines are bare conductors with no insulation and that equipment does fine.
Nice Level! :)
Why do you paint in such a strange order? First 15cm here then 15 there and a little bit more over there until everything is white..? Why not just start in a corner and do it systematicly? And that bag is not going to keep water from going down that pipe. But it may help against corrosion.
Richard van Pukkem the paint job is the least of the problems here.....
They also threw away the cardboard placeholder shield that comes with the meter base for this very purpose.
Why did you not at least cover those lugs?
Where's the ground coming from the ground rods?
Ground rod Should be below the main breaker panel inside looking at his setup
Muy bueno
I gotta do that energized. We cant shut down line side
You can ask the utility to disconnect power
@@Nick-bh1fy not in Philadelphia
@@dickcheesewiz If your network operator refuses to isolate it for you, that means you haven't yet blown enough of the fuses on their end of the line :)
Doing my own as owner /contractor in Florida. Got a code book and went to it.
Saved 7 grand on a job a teenager could do. Encourage anyone who wants to save thousands on jobs anyone with any minor skills to do their own. It's 4 wires. Get over it.
I wouldn't mind if it was 20-30$ an hour but 90$ hr is surgeon money. I'm not paying that for easy work.
️Electrical work isn't something just anyone can or should do and I wouldn't encourage anyone trying this without the proper training and skills
+agaveman I've met tons of cheap guys like you who ended up spending double to fix their electrical problems. Plumbers and HVAC guys with 50+ years of experience in their field doesn't make them an alright electrician lol.
hvac guys are better in electrical than most electricians.
Guy Robby
I have yet so see an HVAC guy do actual electrical work better than an Electrician. I`ve known from experience, i`ve had to help HVAC guys connect wires and figure out circuits not to mention, bend EMT pipes for them.
Must be different where you are, I worked as a ticketed sparky for 10 years in mostly commercial, some industrial and about 6 months of Resi so I have spent time around a lot of electricians and now that I've been in the HVAC/R industry for 6 years I can honestly say that I have yet to meet an electrician who can outsmart an HVAC Tech on control circuitry. I'll admit my HVAC co workers can't bend pipe, but honestly big deal, a 2nd level electrician can do that efficiently. I guess that's why they pay Hvac guys the big bucks though ;)
What was the purpose of uploading a vid like this?
where can I get that kind of meter base?
That looks like a Murray brand meter base. They are owned by Siemens. You should be able to find these on homedepot website or at a local Siemens distributor.
www.homedepot.com/p/Murray-200-Amp-4-Space-6-Circuit-Combination-Meter-Main-JC0406L1200H/202315545?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-D27E-Electrical|&gclid=CMymsKPx2NECFYY8gQod4P0MQQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
Luckily I get my meter base from the power company for free.
@@thomasmarable6818 how?
Some one who thinks ahead priming the wood to last longer wow .
Aaahhhh you didn't finish showing how you did it
Nice visualization of how to remove a box and screw another one in it place(Even Though you skipped part of that too)...... WHERE's THE BEEF?? You left out about 95% of the actual work. I have never seen an electric co. that will mount your service side lugs for you..... maybe its different in your part of the world.....
Are you licensed
just curious why that at all matters to you.
legs were never energized in the first place.
Meu broter eu com 40 de carreira eu nuca tantA gambiarra
Gee, Here in New York we, as a home owner can & are able to do your own work legally, most people that do this are not rich & cannot afford a $90 an hour electrician to do the simple basic operations needed to get this right & pass inspection. I have a friend that is a retired electrician & he went step by step with me doing a hands on setup of the 220 box & sub panel shut off 12" away so I could save myself some bucks & still have it done by code & safely too.. The dweebs here that try to tell you that you cannot do it yourself are just po'ed that the state lets anyone that owns their own home, do the work of someone that is licensed to do that type of work & can rip you off big time by quoting that whatever they are doing is by the CODE book even when it is NOT even IN the code book, but sometimes it should be because it might be relevant to being a safety factor anyway.. So what you can do legally gives you more confidence & is able to keep you from spending way too much money, so you save something for later & will let you thumb your nose at the dweebs that look at cha like you are stealing their money from them because you are not using THEM to do the job at hand.. So, after I was all finished installing everything the way that Roger told me to do it, I called the Inspector out & he looked it all over & then told me that Roger was a very good teacher & that my project had passed with flying colours also, he knew most of the licensed electricians in the area & each one had something that they did that set them apart from each other & he knew what Roger's trick was & saw it in my wiring job, he then praised me on a good job & said that he wished that more homeowners would take it upon themselves to know how to do everything around their houses so they could enjoy life & not go broke having to hire someone that is gonna rip ya off when they start quoting the code book & then add some codes that are not written in said book so, they can add more money & time to a job even when it is not needed anyway.. My buddy had a new house built & before he could live in it, he had to have the towns ZEO (zoning enforcement officer) come & inspect it for a Certificate of occupancy meaning it was safe to live in.. & his ZEO walked down a hall way & pointed out to him that he needed an additional smoke detector 6 feet up from the floor & in the middle of the length of hallway, Bill said that he didn't see that in the code book & that he already had 4 smoke alarms in the house anyway But, that dickwad was persistent & Bill went into the bathroom closet, picked up a smoke detector out of his never ending supply of things you might need at any given moment & he attached it to the wall using sticky backed Velcro in that location that dickwad suggested, This got dickwad really pissed off & he was disgusted & quickly signed the scribbled signature on the C of O & left the house in a huff.. Dickwad was back a few minutes later asking if Bill could take him down to the street because the driveway was not quite finished yet & had a river of mud & stones going the complete length of it & being that the builder had brought him up to the house which was 3100 feet from the highway, he left his car at the street & now had to walk down the muddy driveway .. Bill told him that he didn't ever read THAT requirement in any code book & handed him a newspaper to spread over his head so he wouldn't get to soaking wet while walking down the driveway to his car.. I was there & started laughing the minute he started ringing the doorbell, as I knew what his problem was right then & there.. Had he NOT insisted on doing the smoke alarm, in THAT specific spot, dickwad might not have gotten Pneumonia while walking the 1/2 mile down he driveway during the massive cloudburst that day... I also like reading the comments on stupid stuff like THIS video that wasn't all that bad but, I sure didn't care to be looking at the back of his T-Shirt when he was covering up what he was doing & why the hell did he feed out 10 feet of wire thru the hole in the building just so he could strip off the casing & then cut off all but 2 feet of it, Did he even use that 8 feet of wire he cut off OR maybe he stripped off all of the casing & took the copper back to he scrapyard to he got some $$$ for it? LOLOLOL
the flash do you have a life?
cable cutting by reciprocating saw???????
use multicore copper cable between outdoor panel with electricity meter and main panel in house
I like but you neet to spleen more abaut ok
Not useful.
Worst electrician ever.
Man your slow!
You're* idiot
are u kidding me a real electrician would not use a saw zall to cut 2/0. aluminum where's your aught cutters or ratcheting cutter's
I do it all the time! I'm a master electrician and licensed electrical contractor!
I usually use a band saw but that’s just me
Why?
safety first 0 gloves that's a joke don't care if its dead!