Very valuable video, very detailed and well explained always had my Dad around to sharpen the chisels, you've thought me another great skill, thrilled I can bring my old chisels back to life
50 years of woodworking and it never occurred to me to shim the narrow chisels! What a great tip, as well as the one for the mortice chisel. I can't use my wet stones for sharpening the narrow mortise and small carving chisels. No matter how many times I tell myself not to press down like I do with wider chisels, I always gouge the stone. I am using a marble tile for those, but I saw your other video about using the drill press and I want to try that. I'm going to your website tonight to by the kit. Thank you for all you do!
Great advise - Mortise chisel #1. My set is in sharpening right now. Like the idea of the block, it will save considerable time and effort. Thanks for all the advise.
I bought an almost identical guide about a month ago off Amazon (a stainless one). I had a Veritas MK1, but never really liked it - I understand the new version corrects some of the irritating things, but at $130 or so.... I used the new guide a couple weekends ago and absolutely love it for chisels! I have two plane blades to do this weekend, so can't speak to that. Simple and effective.
thanks for the 3m diamond films. these things are wicked. theyre lasting just as long as other coated abrasives like diamond plates, cut just as well but the surface finish they leave is vastly superior to even the highest grade whetstones. One obvious potential downside is burr management, because of the nature of a coated abrasive which obviously has zero friability. Once you get the hang of managing burrs with these, you can get incredible results very quickly and easily. I'm getting edges that can blow through free hanging paper towels off of the lowest grits. Yet if you want a saw like so called toothy edge off the very same medium you can do that too, by changing your method, namely the direction of grinding in relation to the edge and of the pressure used. I dont know of anyone else that has made these available to small time retail consumers. When I first started sharpening my baseline for an edge was shaving hair, at the skin. Now I'd consider that a dull blade if it couldn't. Slicing copy paper is a joke. Slicing a free hanging cloth like paper towel on the other hand requires a truly keen and properly apexed edge and this was my baseline for a long time, being able to blow right though it like it doesn't it, fast or slow, push right through it like air. The next level is doing something similar but with the paper towel after it's absorbed water.
Thanks, this was helpful. But note that your angle guide for the top shelf of the jig only works for a single thickness of blade. So the blade of a planer would need a different guide than a thicker chisel. The lower clamp (primarily for chisels) can use the same guide for any thickness blade. This is since the lower clamp keeps top surface the same distance from the roller no matter the chisel thickness, while the top clamp keeps the lower surface the same distance from the roller. But you measure your angle with the top surface. I hope this makes sense.
Excellent tips. I've recently had to go back to hand sharpening since the demise of my Tormek! I'd forgotten the feeling of accomplishment in getting a hand finished edge tbh. These tips will certainly help once I remember where I put my old Osaka guide!
Love your site and videos. Does this work out of the box on plane irons and chisels or require fine tuning it with a file to get it flat and stable? Thanks
Does the wood shims affect the angle gauge? Since the same spot is not used on the jig. Also, how did you make the angle gauge? Did you use a digital angle meter attached to each chisel and then use that length to position the wooden stops? Thanks, the video is great.
Very valuable video, very detailed and well explained always had my Dad around to sharpen the chisels, you've thought me another great skill, thrilled I can bring my old chisels back to life
50 years of woodworking and it never occurred to me to shim the narrow chisels! What a great tip, as well as the one for the mortice chisel. I can't use my wet stones for sharpening the narrow mortise and small carving chisels. No matter how many times I tell myself not to press down like I do with wider chisels, I always gouge the stone. I am using a marble tile for those, but I saw your other video about using the drill press and I want to try that. I'm going to your website tonight to by the kit. Thank you for all you do!
Great tips, very useful detailed video. Thanks for sharing this with us 🙏🏼
Great advise - Mortise chisel #1. My set is in sharpening right now. Like the idea of the block, it will save considerable time and effort. Thanks for all the advise.
I bought an almost identical guide about a month ago off Amazon (a stainless one). I had a Veritas MK1, but never really liked it - I understand the new version corrects some of the irritating things, but at $130 or so.... I used the new guide a couple weekends ago and absolutely love it for chisels! I have two plane blades to do this weekend, so can't speak to that. Simple and effective.
thanks for the 3m diamond films. these things are wicked. theyre lasting just as long as other coated abrasives like diamond plates, cut just as well but the surface finish they leave is vastly superior to even the highest grade whetstones. One obvious potential downside is burr management, because of the nature of a coated abrasive which obviously has zero friability. Once you get the hang of managing burrs with these, you can get incredible results very quickly and easily. I'm getting edges that can blow through free hanging paper towels off of the lowest grits. Yet if you want a saw like so called toothy edge off the very same medium you can do that too, by changing your method, namely the direction of grinding in relation to the edge and of the pressure used. I dont know of anyone else that has made these available to small time retail consumers.
When I first started sharpening my baseline for an edge was shaving hair, at the skin. Now I'd consider that a dull blade if it couldn't. Slicing copy paper is a joke. Slicing a free hanging cloth like paper towel on the other hand requires a truly keen and properly apexed edge and this was my baseline for a long time, being able to blow right though it like it doesn't it, fast or slow, push right through it like air. The next level is doing something similar but with the paper towel after it's absorbed water.
Thanks, this was helpful. But note that your angle guide for the top shelf of the jig only works for a single thickness of blade. So the blade of a planer would need a different guide than a thicker chisel. The lower clamp (primarily for chisels) can use the same guide for any thickness blade.
This is since the lower clamp keeps top surface the same distance from the roller no matter the chisel thickness, while the top clamp keeps the lower surface the same distance from the roller. But you measure your angle with the top surface. I hope this makes sense.
Excellent tips. I've recently had to go back to hand sharpening since the demise of my Tormek! I'd forgotten the feeling of accomplishment in getting a hand finished edge tbh. These tips will certainly help once I remember where I put my old Osaka guide!
Thank you for this video! I learned a lot.
Now I'm going to buy that side clamping honing guide from you and it's on sale! 👍
As always great tips and amazing tools
Yup you have to use the Sorby Pro Edge.
Love your site and videos. Does this work out of the box on plane irons and chisels or require fine tuning it with a file to get it flat and stable? Thanks
Does the wood shims affect the angle gauge? Since the same spot is not used on the jig.
Also, how did you make the angle gauge? Did you use a digital angle meter attached to each chisel and then use that length to position the wooden stops?
Thanks, the video is great.
Great hack for that ⅛" chisel! THANKS, Mike.