That’s a beautiful set, and I can assure you that it’ll sound absolutely amazing when completed. Some of the characteristics of these radios can seem daunting, but they actually make perfect sense once you get into it. Also, the FM IF alignment only needs 10.7MHz, so you should be able to do that quite easily. I didn’t do any RF alignments on the first dozen or so german radios I did because my signal generator only went up to 20MHz, and they’re all still operating perfectly well 😊
Hi Manuel. It’s coming along well. Having replaced most of the caps it’s sounding very good, even with the speaker out of the cabinet. I’m enjoying the new challenges. As you say, it’s all very logical, just sometimes a different way of doing things. Unfortunately I now have the cleaning to look forward to!
I have my nordmende Carmen 57 almost finished, i restuffed the 3x 50uF filter capacitor in the power supply with 3x 47uF 400 volt ones,with proper insulation of All the wiring, and today i need to polish All the brass parts at the Front,then i,m done,a beautiful radio restored to it's Former glory.
And i have the original schematic, in perfect condition, very helpful, for testing the voltages.i maybe opening the fm tuner for cleaning, it makes a scratching noise, when i tuning in the stations, it's not the tube,it's tested.
Thanks Don, appreciate your work. I am in a different situation from you in many ways being in the UK. Here we have a fairly constant 235 to 240v and every power plug has a fuse so we are less likely to have a serious blow up. I use 1A fuses in the plugs, I never fit fuses inside a radio unless they are factory items. Most later valve sets are live chassis, no transformer. Early stuff have mostly mains transformers though we do have some that are autotransformers which catch out the unwary. My test bench runs on an isolation transformer dedicated to the variac, feeding the series bulb, normally a 40W, sometimes a 60W. Soldering irons and all test gear are on a separate isolation transformer. There is no earth point or earthed metal work on the bench at all. I was surprised to see an earth connection on your dim bulb board. I re-stuff practically all components if feasible so to do. Even valves! Sam.
Hi Sam We also have a stable 235 - 240V supply however our plugs are not fused. In addition we have mandatory earth-leakage breakers so if there is even the smallest leakage to earth the breaker trips. So earthing the chassis makes sense in a transformer driven radio. Nearly all our radios here are transformer sets. The only "hot chassis" radios I have com across are private imports from Europe. I only recall working on one. So I don't routinely use an isolation transformer. As you will have seen I use a "dim bulb" current limiter, usually with a 60 W bulb and a variac if I haven't replaced the filter caps. These days I always replace or at least cut the grid cap to the output valve before applying power. Cheers
Looks a tricky set to re-cap with difficult access. Those type of PCBs can be fragile. Enjoying watching you work on it and looking forward to the next episode.
I’m finding it gets easier as I go along. I’ve certainly worked on worse radios for access. Identifying components is a bit of an issue - some I don’t recognise at all, but I can usually work out what they are from the schematic.
Another great video Don 👍 Love your Teeshirt collection too, haven't seen that David Gilmour, Comfortably numb one before, very cool! Keep up the good work.. Chris
I love the old German sets Don, like so many products of their time, very well engineered, and like an old Merc, almost invincible-except for the selenium, time to put that out to pasture.
Hi Roundy. I see you also follow Ojnoj. Great channel! I always enjoy his videos. I was going to change the selenium rectifier and I've heard all sorts of opinions both for and against. I'm going to power it up after the re-cap with the selenium in, but I'll most likely change it after that to be on the safe side. Cheers
@@Donno308 Yep, Ojnoj is a fellow Paddy! The thing about seleniums, is that when they expire, they STINK! If you are replacing it, don't forget a series resistor of an appropriate power rating to offset the higher voltage your shiny new silicon diode will provide to the electrolytics, and the HT line :)
Don't let the seeming complexity scare you Don. They are not that bad to restore. Those reddish wima-caps are usuallly quite bad. The other paper-caps usually aren't that good also. Good luck restoring, looking forward to the next video!!!
Thanks Jurriaan. I’ll look out for those wima caps. They are the shiny dark red ones? I didn’t know if they were good or not. I thought they were probably ceramic and probably ok.
Hi Don, I would not replace the Selenium-Rectifier by a bridge rectifier. Just open the selenium rectifier, remove the Selenium plates and put in 4x 1N4007 (1A). It is rather easy and you can put the rectifier back to its old place. I usually do not use a resitor to reduce the higher output voltage of silicon diodes, but Z-Diodes (not so stressful when powering up the radio, e.g. 1N 5349B, 12V/5W, you can solder it in reverse polarity directly into the B+-line to the filter cap. The 12V5W (3A) is more than enough because more than 100mA the radio doesn't pull. Regard from Germany Thomas
Thanks for the tip re the Zener diode. Good idea! I’ll check the voltages after changing the rectifier but a 12 volt zener would probably do the trick, I think. I’ve already bought a bridge rectifier which I think will fit. If not I’ll just fit 4 diodes as you suggested.
I'm amazed that you seem to have got the FM so well considering the low voltages on the plate and screen. I shall look forward to seeing the next part. Thanks.
Hi John. When I first ran it up on the variac I didn't say what the final B+ voltage was but looking at the video, the meter seems to be showing about 260V so that would be about right. I'm sure I had the meter clipped to the wrong valve pin later in the video. After I changed the power supply caps the voltage came up higher, but that's in the next video. Cheers
@@Donno308 I hope yours works again too I know a bit about radios also with tubes I'm all about it when I was little and hung out at school but I learned it from myself I'm there now 40 years old and was always all gintreseert now there aren't many left who know those old things tog certainly not aar I'm sitting but I think it's great to have old digen I like that it's not junk it's very well designed
oo I see now I have a video how I made the same radio play silently with a solar panel and an inverter with battery of mopeds because my brother sleeps during the day because he does night work
Gives me inspiration to have a go at a Grundig 4019 I have. I had a look inside it once and it's typical German engineering. It has a selenium rectifier as well, which a lot of times are not too bad. I don't think I would replace the selenium rectifier if the B+ is okay. I am one against reforming caps. I have had several decide to just randomly short after reforming, and that never ends very well....
Hi Brendan I did end up replacing the electrolytics. I don't like the idea of re-forming. Even if it works, you still have 60 year old capacitors which I wouldn't trust. I'm leaving the selenium rectifier in pending testing but I'll probably replace it anyway as I believe they're quite nasty if they do fail. Cheers
Cheers Ross. It's coming along nicely and I'm editing Part 2 as I go (for a change). I try to post a video at least every two weeks, which is the best I can do as I have a full time job.
@@Donno308 You are doing very well with what you are putting out alongside a full time job. I struggle to find time for basic household tasks between my shifts.
Hi Don from here in the UK. You have got off to a good start with this fine set. I would definitely give the push button switches a good dose of contact cleaner and keep operating the switches while you are doing it. The contacts were a common problem with some of the German sets. If the switches are working OK, then cleaning them is preventive maintenance. I'm enjoying your channel and I have subscribed. Look forward to seeing the next episode. These sets sound really good when working correctly. Keep up the good. Cheers Chris.
Thanks Chris. Yes I am going to give the switches a good cleanout. I'm not sure at this point whether I should pull them apart (one at a time if possible) or whether I can spray enough contact cleaner into them from the outside and work the them on & off. I'll just have to see. Everything I've heard about these sets is very good so hopefully I can do it justice! I'm working on part 2 now. I usually post a new video every 2 weeks or so. Thanks for subscribing too! Cheers
Hi Mike. Welcome to my little channel. The radio is progressing well and I’m just about to upload Part 2. It should be available in a few hours. These German radios are not so bad to work on. Cheers
Being mostly into audio, like you my test gear is not made for the FM/VHF band. I can just about sort simple IF issues but as to alinement, I simply have to largely give up. I think from your brief tests so far, you might be lucky and not need alinement.
Very nice restoration video series. I have nordmende rigoletto radio e15 model 1960 out put tube el84. this is orjinal and working but I want to recap So Do you have changed capasitor list? For example Which capacitor type should I replace the paper capacitors with?
Hi. Sorry, I don't have a list of the capacitors I changed and I no longer have the capacitors I removed from this radio. It was some time ago. I would recommend changing all the paper capacitors and also the dark red "gum drop" capacitors (you can see one of these at center left off the screen at the 34 minute mark in the Part 1 video. I use "Amber" capacitors from a local supplier but Green caps are also good. Really, any type is fine so long as its voltage rating is the same or higher than the original capacitor. The "Amber" caps I use are rated at 600V so that covers just about everything. Good luck with your radio. I am happy top help if I can. Cheers
I just bought a beautiful mint shape Nordmende phonosuper Z 700 that looks very similar from the back and all tubes alignement like yours. All works fine except the FM (UKW). They is not even background noise just like if the radio was turn off. Would you know what i could look for ?? I have zero electronics knowledge but sure wish i could fix it. Could it be only a burned tube ? Thanx for any response
The German translations are: Short-Wave = Kurzwelle; Medium Wave = Mediumwelle; Long Wave = Langwelle; VHF(FM) = UKW or Ultrakilowelle. Welle = wave in English.
With me there was a lamp that still made light but no longer does its job and who knows, maybe it is something like that with you too or a wire that has died that was the first time I had it there was a lot of dead cables
I did not see you check what voltage the set was adjusted to on the selection panel before powering up. With a dim bulb in line the only other thing that would concern me would be to replace the output valve grid cap before applying power to save the output transformer.
Hi. Yes, you're right - I should have changed the grid capacitor before powering it up. I suppose I thought that the dim bulb would give me enough indication of excessive current draw if the cap was shorted but maybe not. These days I routinely check but I filmed this a couple of years ago and I'm learning as I go. I did notice that the voltage selector was on 220V although I don't think I mentioned it in the video. Anyway thanks for your interest. Cheers
Surprisingly user friendly chassis by the looks. Selenium rectifier has to go, too much of a risk keeping it in there. Fairly sure there will be some service data for that chassis that will help with alignment. As far as FM goes i guess you can just leave it , seems strong enough as is. Carry on...👍
If you don't have MW, I would check out these piano keys first. Often, corrosion and dirt are the cause. Sometimes it is enough to press harder several times to make the radio come to life.
22:50 You did note the antenna wire may have been cut when you were looking at the back of the set earlier. That may be why you're not getting anything on the AM medium-wave band.
I have been told that they have a high failure rate when they get old, and apparently when they fail it can be catastrophic. However there are differing opinions on this. Obviously it would be easier to leave it in place if it's safe to do so. I think I'll do some more research before making a decision.
@@Donno308 In my experience, the Black AEG Tower rectifiers are almost always good and Reform well when the radio runs a while. The flat aluminium ones by Siemens tend to fail or not Suppliers enough voltage for the radio
I wondered if 1,000 MFD is rather high for a smoothing cap? Normally they're only about a tenth of that, often a 100 MFD and a 50 MFD. I think I've heard somewhere that too big a smoothing cap puts strain on the valves, but I might be wrong.
Hi. Yes, you're right. I must have made a mistake in the video saying it's a 1000 MFD. It is a 100 MFD. After reading this I rushed down to the shed to check I hadn't replaced it with a 1000 but all good, it's definitely a 100. Cheers
Mostly I do that but it depends on the radio. If I power it up on dim bulb and there’s no hum I might do some investigation first. But I always change the filter caps regardless.
Hi Michael. Yes the old LSG11 will do at least the 10.7 Mhz IF frequency and probably more. For the FM RF alignment the instructions specified an FM modulated signal so it won't do that, however David Tipton said that he used an unmodulated signal. I could probably look at that with the oscilloscope and adjust it that way. One of these days I'll get myself a fancy FM modulated sweep generator ...
Hallo Don, Gefahr = danger. Tonabnehmer = pikup, Lautsprecher = speaker, DIN = Deutsches Institut für Normung = german Institut for normalize. The text says : danger only use pikup/speakers following DIN. Sicherung= fuse. 110,125 V 1A slow wich is träge in german. I can't read completely what's for the antenna the right one refers to external and dipole separate, on the left iI think it says putting them together. Hope it is useful for you.
@@maquetista16 I will, thanks! I have been using Google translate when I need to, It's not too bad but doesn't always get it right, particularly with technical terms.
@@Donno308 Technical languge translations are always dificult Don, you must be a native speaker for this, or at least worked in a job where you need both languages.
Nothing worse than fixing a radio someone else tried to fix before. Lots of detail fact finding like a bad connection here and there.Tubes are probably all original too. Those will have to be checked. Don't envy you Don but you can get it up and running like new eventually.
I have a friend with a tube tester so he can check them for me but in my experience, tubes often last for many years. The main problems will be capacitors, bad connections, resistors out of spec etc. I think it will turn out well in the end though.
"Gefahr" means "Danger"! Verwendet nur Tonabnehmer nach DIN and Verwendet nur Lautsprecher nach DIN mean basically "Connect only phono pick-up by DIN" and "Connect only Loudspeaker by DIN".
@@Donno308 There are German technical words that don't translate well in English. I spent some time in the late 1980s and early 1990s learning German for interest's sake.
@@top40researcher31 In German, you're being rude by using the *familiar* terms when you do not know me and have never met me in person. You should be using the polite formal terms, thus: "Ihre Kommentar ist so abstoßend".
One more thing: very classy touch on the choice of music at the end there 😊
That’s a beautiful set, and I can assure you that it’ll sound absolutely amazing when completed. Some of the characteristics of these radios can seem daunting, but they actually make perfect sense once you get into it. Also, the FM IF alignment only needs 10.7MHz, so you should be able to do that quite easily. I didn’t do any RF alignments on the first dozen or so german radios I did because my signal generator only went up to 20MHz, and they’re all still operating perfectly well 😊
Hi Manuel. It’s coming along well. Having replaced most of the caps it’s sounding very good, even with the speaker out of the cabinet. I’m enjoying the new challenges. As you say, it’s all very logical, just sometimes a different way of doing things. Unfortunately I now have the cleaning to look forward to!
I have my nordmende Carmen 57 almost finished, i restuffed the 3x 50uF filter capacitor in the power supply with 3x 47uF 400 volt ones,with proper insulation of All the wiring, and today i need to polish All the brass parts at the Front,then i,m done,a beautiful radio restored to it's Former glory.
That's great to hear. Congratulations! Yes, these are beautiful radios and well worth the effort.
Cheers
And i have the original schematic, in perfect condition, very helpful, for testing the voltages.i maybe opening the fm tuner for cleaning, it makes a scratching noise, when i tuning in the stations, it's not the tube,it's tested.
An exciting project Don a bit more involved than Aussie sets but not that hard when you get into it. Good luck 👍🙂
Cheers Dave. It's getting easier as I go on, in fact I'm getting to quite like it!
Thanks Don, appreciate your work.
I am in a different situation from you in many ways being in the UK. Here we have a fairly constant 235 to 240v and every power plug has a fuse so we are less likely to have a serious blow up. I use 1A fuses in the plugs, I never fit fuses inside a radio unless they are factory items. Most later valve sets are live chassis, no transformer. Early stuff have mostly mains transformers though we do have some that are autotransformers which catch out the unwary.
My test bench runs on an isolation transformer dedicated to the variac, feeding the series bulb, normally a 40W, sometimes a 60W. Soldering irons and all test gear are on a separate isolation transformer. There is no earth point or earthed metal work on the bench at all. I was surprised to see an earth connection on your dim bulb board.
I re-stuff practically all components if feasible so to do. Even valves!
Sam.
Hi Sam
We also have a stable 235 - 240V supply however our plugs are not fused. In addition we have mandatory earth-leakage breakers so if there is even the smallest leakage to earth the breaker trips. So earthing the chassis makes sense in a transformer driven radio. Nearly all our radios here are transformer sets. The only "hot chassis" radios I have com across are private imports from Europe. I only recall working on one. So I don't routinely use an isolation transformer. As you will have seen I use a "dim bulb" current limiter, usually with a 60 W bulb and a variac if I haven't replaced the filter caps. These days I always replace or at least cut the grid cap to the output valve before applying power.
Cheers
Exciting project. Looking forward to the series.
Looks a tricky set to re-cap with difficult access. Those type of PCBs can be fragile. Enjoying watching you work on it and looking forward to the next episode.
I’m finding it gets easier as I go along. I’ve certainly worked on worse radios for access. Identifying components is a bit of an issue - some I don’t recognise at all, but I can usually work out what they are from the schematic.
Excellent video! it was funny seeing you discover the "German way of radios"!
I’m slowly getting the hang of it. They certainly are different!
Another great video Don 👍 Love your Teeshirt collection too, haven't seen that David Gilmour, Comfortably numb one before, very cool! Keep up the good work..
Chris
Ha ha! That’s my favourite!
I love the old German sets Don, like so many products of their time, very well engineered, and like an old Merc, almost invincible-except for the selenium, time to put that out to pasture.
Hi Roundy.
I see you also follow Ojnoj. Great channel! I always enjoy his videos.
I was going to change the selenium rectifier and I've heard all sorts of opinions both for and against. I'm going to power it up after the re-cap with the selenium in, but I'll most likely change it after that to be on the safe side.
Cheers
@@Donno308 Yep, Ojnoj is a fellow Paddy!
The thing about seleniums, is that when they expire, they STINK! If you are replacing it, don't forget a series resistor of an appropriate power rating to offset the higher voltage your shiny new silicon diode will provide to the electrolytics, and the HT line :)
@@Roundymooney Cheers Roundy. I've got a selection of 5 W resistors and I'm going to try to match the voltage I was getting with the selenium.
Don't let the seeming complexity scare you Don. They are not that bad to restore. Those reddish wima-caps are usuallly quite bad. The other paper-caps usually aren't that good also. Good luck restoring, looking forward to the next video!!!
Thanks Jurriaan. I’ll look out for those wima caps. They are the shiny dark red ones? I didn’t know if they were good or not. I thought they were probably ceramic and probably ok.
@@Donno308 yes those red shiny candy-shaped ones they usually look good, but measure quite bad
Hi Don, I would not replace the Selenium-Rectifier by a bridge rectifier. Just open the selenium rectifier, remove the Selenium plates and put in 4x 1N4007 (1A). It is rather easy and you can put the rectifier back to its old place. I usually do not use a resitor to reduce the higher output voltage of silicon diodes, but Z-Diodes (not so stressful when powering up the radio, e.g. 1N 5349B, 12V/5W, you can solder it in reverse polarity directly into the B+-line to the filter cap. The 12V5W (3A) is more than enough because more than 100mA the radio doesn't pull. Regard from Germany Thomas
Thanks for the tip re the Zener diode. Good idea! I’ll check the voltages after changing the rectifier but a 12 volt zener would probably do the trick, I think. I’ve already bought a bridge rectifier which I think will fit. If not I’ll just fit 4 diodes as you suggested.
@@Donno308 Have fun and lots of success with your restauration. Hope you can fix the medium wave coil problem.
I'm amazed that you seem to have got the FM so well considering the low voltages on the plate and screen. I shall look forward to seeing the next part. Thanks.
Hi John. When I first ran it up on the variac I didn't say what the final B+ voltage was but looking at the video, the meter seems to be showing about 260V so that would be about right. I'm sure I had the meter clipped to the wrong valve pin later in the video. After I changed the power supply caps the voltage came up higher, but that's in the next video.
Cheers
I have the same and I still listen to it ..and once repaired it myself
Good to see these still in use!
@@Donno308 With me there was a lamp that still made light but no longer does its job and who knows, maybe it is something like that
@@Donno308 I hope yours works again too I know a bit about radios also with tubes I'm all about it when I was little and hung out at school but I learned it from myself I'm there now 40 years old and was always all gintreseert now there aren't many left who know those old things tog certainly not aar I'm sitting but I think it's great to have old digen I like that it's not junk it's very well designed
oo I see now I have a video how I made the same radio play silently with a solar panel and an inverter with battery of mopeds because my brother sleeps during the day because he does night work
@@Donno308 ruclips.net/video/ZLjTNMrk_no/видео.htmlsi=fWoZQePz7CMZlce-
Gives me inspiration to have a go at a Grundig 4019 I have. I had a look inside it once and it's typical German engineering. It has a selenium rectifier as well, which a lot of times are not too bad. I don't think I would replace the selenium rectifier if the B+ is okay.
I am one against reforming caps. I have had several decide to just randomly short after reforming, and that never ends very well....
Hi Brendan
I did end up replacing the electrolytics. I don't like the idea of re-forming. Even if it works, you still have 60 year old capacitors which I wouldn't trust. I'm leaving the selenium rectifier in pending testing but I'll probably replace it anyway as I believe they're quite nasty if they do fail.
Cheers
Very enjoyable Don, thank you. Looking forward to seeing how things progress in part 2.
Cheers Ross. It's coming along nicely and I'm editing Part 2 as I go (for a change). I try to post a video at least every two weeks, which is the best I can do as I have a full time job.
@@Donno308 You are doing very well with what you are putting out alongside a full time job. I struggle to find time for basic household tasks between my shifts.
Hi Don from here in the UK. You have got off to a good start with this fine set. I would definitely give the push button switches a good dose of contact cleaner and keep operating the switches while you are doing it. The contacts were a common problem with some of the German sets. If the switches are working OK, then cleaning them is preventive maintenance. I'm enjoying your channel and I have subscribed. Look forward to seeing the next episode. These sets sound really good when working correctly. Keep up the good. Cheers Chris.
Thanks Chris. Yes I am going to give the switches a good cleanout. I'm not sure at this point whether I should pull them apart (one at a time if possible) or whether I can spray enough contact cleaner into them from the outside and work the them on & off. I'll just have to see. Everything I've heard about these sets is very good so hopefully I can do it justice! I'm working on part 2 now. I usually post a new video every 2 weeks or so.
Thanks for subscribing too!
Cheers
Hi Don nice to see u get to rest.this German one.I am interested to do this also,,,but i ve to learn,,enjoy also next Time!!
Greatings Mike
Hi Mike. Welcome to my little channel.
The radio is progressing well and I’m just about to upload Part 2. It should be available in a few hours. These German radios are not so bad to work on.
Cheers
5:51 That bottom plate is warped..... like my sense of humour! LOL 😁
Makes 2 of us.
@@Donno308 LOL
Being mostly into audio, like you my test gear is not made for the FM/VHF band. I can just about sort simple IF issues but as to alinement, I simply have to largely give up. I think from your brief tests so far, you might be lucky and not need alinement.
Yes I'm hoping the FM doesn't need anything. I can do the IF and AM bands ok.
Very nice restoration video series. I have nordmende rigoletto radio e15 model 1960 out put tube el84. this is orjinal and working but I want to recap So Do you have changed capasitor list? For example Which capacitor type should I replace the paper capacitors with?
Hi. Sorry, I don't have a list of the capacitors I changed and I no longer have the capacitors I removed from this radio. It was some time ago.
I would recommend changing all the paper capacitors and also the dark red "gum drop" capacitors (you can see one of these at center left off the screen at the 34 minute mark in the Part 1 video. I use "Amber" capacitors from a local supplier but Green caps are also good. Really, any type is fine so long as its voltage rating is the same or higher than the original capacitor. The "Amber" caps I use are rated at 600V so that covers just about everything.
Good luck with your radio. I am happy top help if I can.
Cheers
I just bought a beautiful mint shape Nordmende phonosuper Z 700 that looks very similar from the back and all tubes alignement like yours. All works fine except the FM (UKW). They is not even background noise just like if the radio was turn off. Would you know what i could look for ?? I have zero electronics knowledge but sure wish i could fix it. Could it be only a burned tube ? Thanx for any response
The German translations are: Short-Wave = Kurzwelle; Medium Wave = Mediumwelle; Long Wave = Langwelle; VHF(FM) = UKW or Ultrakilowelle. Welle = wave in English.
Good nice 👍
With me there was a lamp that still made light but no longer does its job and who knows, maybe it is something like that with you too or a wire that has died that was the first time I had it there was a lot of dead cables
This looks good
I did not see you check what voltage the set was adjusted to on the selection panel before powering up.
With a dim bulb in line the only other thing that would concern me would be to replace the output valve grid cap before applying power to save the output transformer.
Hi. Yes, you're right - I should have changed the grid capacitor before powering it up. I suppose I thought that the dim bulb would give me enough indication of excessive current draw if the cap was shorted but maybe not. These days I routinely check but I filmed this a couple of years ago and I'm learning as I go. I did notice that the voltage selector was on 220V although I don't think I mentioned it in the video.
Anyway thanks for your interest.
Cheers
Surprisingly user friendly chassis by the looks. Selenium rectifier has to go, too much of a risk keeping it in there. Fairly sure there will be some service data for that chassis that will help with alignment. As far as FM goes i guess you can just leave it , seems strong enough as is. Carry on...👍
27:10 The censor might frown on the *fowl* language heard in the background about here in the video! LOL😄
Har Har!
@@Donno308 It took a lot of "pluck" for me to write that! Ba-KaaaaaaK !😁
@@neilforbes416 did you hear about the computer that crossed the road it was programmed by a chicken lol
If you don't have MW, I would check out these piano keys first. Often, corrosion and dirt are the cause. Sometimes it is enough to press harder several times to make the radio come to life.
Thanks for the tip. I'll be giving the contacts a good clean anyway.
22:50 You did note the antenna wire may have been cut when you were looking at the back of the set earlier. That may be why you're not getting anything on the AM medium-wave band.
Nope. it wasn't that ... You'll have to watch to find out lol
@@Donno308 I did. It was the coil in the end.
Hi Don. Why replace the Selenium Rectifier when it seems to working?
I have been told that they have a high failure rate when they get old, and apparently when they fail it can be catastrophic. However there are differing opinions on this. Obviously it would be easier to leave it in place if it's safe to do so.
I think I'll do some more research before making a decision.
@@Donno308 In my experience, the Black AEG Tower rectifiers are almost always good and Reform well when the radio runs a while. The flat aluminium ones by Siemens tend to fail or not Suppliers enough voltage for the radio
Don looks like a nice set German engineers do seam to march to a different drummer.
A different market, I guess. This seems to be the Mercedes Benz of radios!
I wondered if 1,000 MFD is rather high for a smoothing cap? Normally they're only about a tenth of that, often a 100 MFD and a 50 MFD. I think I've heard somewhere that too big a smoothing cap puts strain on the valves, but I might be wrong.
Hi. Yes, you're right. I must have made a mistake in the video saying it's a 1000 MFD. It is a 100 MFD.
After reading this I rushed down to the shed to check I hadn't replaced it with a 1000 but all good, it's definitely a 100.
Cheers
Check Mouser or Digikey for CAPs.
Thanks. I’ll try them.
Carls capacitors right in your backyard
The first thing I do with any tube radio, is replace the Filter caps, to get the hum out.
Mostly I do that but it depends on the radio. If I power it up on dim bulb and there’s no hum I might do some investigation first. But I always change the filter caps regardless.
If it hummed, it didn't know the words to the songs! LOL😁
I thought the L S G 11 signal generator has the necessary F M frequency signals i have one to but never done F M radios.
Hi Michael. Yes the old LSG11 will do at least the 10.7 Mhz IF frequency and probably more. For the FM RF alignment the instructions specified an FM modulated signal so it won't do that, however David Tipton said that he used an unmodulated signal. I could probably look at that with the oscilloscope and adjust it that way. One of these days I'll get myself a fancy FM modulated sweep generator ...
hard to fix these
Hopefully not too hard. Tracing the circuit through all the switches is the hardest part.
Hallo Don, Gefahr = danger. Tonabnehmer = pikup, Lautsprecher = speaker, DIN = Deutsches Institut für Normung = german Institut for normalize. The text says : danger only use pikup/speakers following DIN. Sicherung= fuse. 110,125 V 1A slow wich is träge in german. I can't read completely what's for the antenna the right one refers to external and dipole separate, on the left iI think it says putting them together. Hope it is useful for you.
Thanks Eduard. That’s very helpful. I’ve written the translation in pencil on the back (it will clean off later).
@@Donno308 If you can make a close up of the antena text in the next video I can translate it better,
@@maquetista16 I will, thanks! I have been using Google translate when I need to, It's not too bad but doesn't always get it right, particularly with technical terms.
@@Donno308 Technical languge translations are always dificult Don, you must be a native speaker for this, or at least worked in a job where you need both languages.
Don's old radio shop your old radio Receiver is cool
Thanks. I’m getting to like it more as I get to know it’s secrets.
Where do you start??😂
It certainly felt like that lol. Turning out ok though.
please activate the subtitles
I tried to activate subtitles but it doesn’t work. I’m trying to fix it.
They come on by themselves a few hours after uploading to youube
They seem to be working now.
RAFIQUE MASTOI SHJ UAE GREAT 🏝🇵🇰
Thank you!
Nothing worse than fixing a radio someone else tried to fix before. Lots of detail fact finding like a bad connection here
and there.Tubes are probably all original too. Those will have to be checked. Don't envy you Don but you can get it
up and running like new eventually.
I have a friend with a tube tester so he can check them for me but in my experience, tubes often last for many years. The main problems will be capacitors, bad connections, resistors out of spec etc. I think it will turn out well in the end though.
"Gefahr" means "Danger"! Verwendet nur Tonabnehmer nach DIN and Verwendet nur Lautsprecher nach DIN mean basically "Connect only phono pick-up by DIN" and "Connect only Loudspeaker by DIN".
Thanks Neil. I did work out some of it using google translate but that isn't very good for technical stuff.
Cheers
@@Donno308 There are German technical words that don't translate well in English. I spent some time in the late 1980s and early 1990s learning German for interest's sake.
@@top40researcher31 In German, you're being rude by using the *familiar* terms when you do not know me and have never met me in person. You should be using the polite formal terms, thus: "Ihre Kommentar ist so abstoßend".
@@neilforbes416 the comment has been removed.
@@neilforbes416 what happens if you translate German into English then English back into German